What's In A Bargain?

The souks of Marrakech create a heady atmosphere: narrow alleys full of traditional crafts; the beautiful Berber carpets displayed both inside and outside the shops; the bright ‘just-dyed’ fabrics hanging across the alleyways to dry; the smell of the spices heaped up on the stalls; the men in warm djellabas touting for trade—it all adds up to become a shopper’s dream with sensory overload. Everyone tells you What's In you’ll be overcharged in the souk—just like in every country

Athroughout Africa—but I thought I was different and was determined to get a bargain...no one was going to get the better of me! In one shop I picked out a couple of hand-woven, tufted and embroidered Berber rugs from among the many thrown down at my feet. I loved them both...I really only wanted one...but the starting price was US$1,000 each. I sat patiently saying they were too expensive and I couldn’t afford to pay that much. I drank cup after cup of wonderful, very sweet mint tea, and four hours—yes, four hours— later, I was the proud owner of both carpets, having parted with just US$180. And for many years I was proud of my bargaining prowess and would tell the story to anyone who would listen. But now I’m not so sure... Working with artisans in Mfuwe, Zambia, has shown me a different side. Let’s look at basketry or woodcarving, or anything else made by hand. If it takes an artisan two days to make something, and assuming that he/she has made a good quality, well-designed piece, surely he/she deserves at least two days’ pay—plus the cost of materials? And, even if the materials are freely available in the bush, it still takes time to collect and prepare them. Materials such as sand creeper (a cane-like material for weaving) must be found, dug up, boiled, stripped and then polished before a weaver can start making a basket. It is true that often there is a muzungu (white person’s) price but the secret is to know when it is being applied to excess. Many of us have at least some disposable income; we don’t struggle each day to provide our family with a good meal or have to choose which of our children attends school because we can only afford one lot of fees. The guy you are bargaining with may be facing such decisions and the few dollars you save could make a big difference to his family...but, on the other hand, no one likes to feel that they have been fleeced. We are all quick to criticise the clothing companies who buy from Asian ‘sweat shops’...but we all want a bargain. So what is fair when buying from an artisan? If you are buying direct from the craftsman try and find out about local wages for a skilled worker before going shopping. Ask how long it took to make the item. Look to see if it is well made or hastily thrown together using little skill or care. Then, if you want it, pay a fair price. Isn’t it all about a fair wage for a fair job?

Writer: Karen Beattie Photography: Project Luangwa

Bargain?

'I was proud of my bargaining prowess...but now I'm not so sure...'