Seasons of the Zambezi

Seasons ON THE ZAMBEZI

AT VICTORIA FALLS, LIVINGSTONE

[WRITER: Alison Orr ] [ PHOTO: Chundukwa River Lodge / Safari Magazine ]

An account from Chundukwa River Lodge

When you live on the Zambezi River, just 35km above Victoria Falls, much of life revolves around the river, the Falls, and their variations of ‘high and low water’. Here, seasons are categorised according to relevant characteristics of that period or time of year, rather than the traditional western four seasons of the year. And whilst you can split the year into several seasons, the most common are the Wet and Dry seasons, and Low and High water levels. Local communities are in tune with these shifts in climate and changes in their surroundings for various different reasons – planting, harvesting and storing crops, irrigation, hydro-electric power supplies, fishing, roof maintenance, and in some cases shifting homes and livestock from low to higher grounds – as the Lozi people in Barotseland do, before the annual floods.

For us at Chundukwa we are focussed on the types of adventures that our guests can enjoy as the seasons change – always closely linked to the Victoria Falls. Also being a ‘River Lodge’ nestled on the banks of the magnificent Zambezi River, we observe the changes in the varying bird-and-wildlife seen at the water’s edge, the changing channels on the river, and the water lapping under our stilted river chalets. Along the course of its 2574km journey to the Indian Ocean, the Zambezi River flows from Zambia, through parts of Angola, back into Zambia, and along parts of Zambia’s borders with Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe, and finally into Mozambique where it reaches the Indian Ocean. The catchment area is vast, and the morphology of the river equally diverse – as wide as 25km in the Barotse Floodplains, a mile wide at the Victoria Falls, and in parts of the Batoka Gorge below, as narrow as a stone’s throw. Historically, the rainy season in this greater region and in much of the Zambezi’s catchment area is from November to mid-April, and the dry season from May until October. However, further along the Zambezi these seasons do not fall exactly in line with ‘high and low’ river levels.

Victoria Falls - Where do we fit in?

Almost midway between source and sea, Victoria Falls divides the Zambezi River into the upper and middle sections, with the lower being Cahora Bassa to the Indian Ocean.

Although ‘the rains’ can start as early as November, here we only notice and feel the effects of the river levels rising, towards the end of December. The Zambezi continues to fill up as the rains continue, so that usually by the end of March Victoria Falls can be seen in all their fullness, and on the rise until early May, with local water levels normally peaking at this time.

By April, the rain here generally clears up, and after the river’s peak, the Zambezi gradually starts dropping. The Falls remain abundant in June and early July whilst the river subsides, and by August certain channels and patches of flow start drying up, with much of the bare rock face of the Falls visible from September until the end of November, before the cycle starts again. affected by how early or late the rains arrive, how long they continue, and how much rain there is.

What does Low Water mean for us?

‘Low Water’ means a minimal amount of water is flowing over the Falls, with the spray reduced and the vast basalt rock wall increasingly visible.

Along the Zambezi leading up to the Falls, sandbanks and islands start emerging, rocks jut out, and the flow of water is moderate. Beautiful sandy beaches are adorned with water birds and crocodiles sunning themselves in the cooler part of the day.

Rock pratincols, African skimmers, and knobbilled ducks also take up residence on the small islands, making it a birdwatcher’s paradise. Hippos move into the shallows, and lawns along the river’s edge become prime grazing areas for them.

At the same time, well into the dry season, there is an abundance of wildlife along the water’s edge and coming down to the river to drink. The scorched land that we experience in October and early November is starkly contrasted with the exquisite cool meandering waters of the Zambezi River.

What can you do if you visit during the Low Water months? (August – December)

Low water season offers visitors a variety of opportunities for some of the more unusual Falls and Zambezi experiences.

• View the rock wall and skeletal canyon of

Victoria Falls – an early morning visit in the cooler hours, to enjoy the soft glow of sunrise reflecting on the rocks.

• Visit Livingstone Island and the associated

Angel’s and Devil’s natural infinity pools on the edge of the Falls – an absolutely phenomenal way to experience the Falls, standing on top of them and emersing yourself in the Zambezi, right on the edge of the Falls.

• Best season for white-water rafting on the Zambezi – the amount of water passing through the Batoka Gorge is just right for incredible class V rapids to be navigated.

• A chance to stand below the Falls – only at very low water levels, it is possible to access this exquisite sanctuary, and experience the Falls from their base.

• See the Zambezi adorned with water birds, hippos and crocodiles. Sunset and sunrise cruises are just magical at this time, with fantastic wildlife sightings.

• Scenic flights over the Falls will give perspective as to their great width and the channels that the Zambezi forms, as well as the formation of Victoria Falls and the layout of Batoka Gorge.

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What does High Water mean for us?

By December we’ve usually have had our first rains, and the river slowly begins to rise. The wilderness turns lush green with a spring flush. In Zambia we call this the ‘Emerald Season’ as it is an equally fulfilling time to go on Safari and a perfect opportunity to include a visit to Victoria Falls. The expanding river, colourintense sunsets, and cooler temperatures offset by the occasional afternoon thunderstorm, make this a very comfortable time to visit the region.

By mid-January clouds of spray once more hover above Victoria Falls.

In March, April and May, there is so much water falling over Victoria Falls that you really experience the Falls rather than simply ‘viewing’ them. The Zambezi widens as it breaks its banks and millions of litres of water rush past you in perfect silence – often carrying lots of organic debris and even whole reed or papyrus islands that have broken off in the flood plains.

Sand banks close in and are replaced with a sea of water as the river swells over its banks filling every dry tributary and waterway on its course to the Indian Ocean.

What you can do if you visit the Falls during the High Water months? (mid-January to mid-July)

A visit during ‘high water’ season is a perfect time for some of the more well-known Falls and Zambezi experiences. • Walks above the falls following the meandering footpaths will take you through glittering water-drenched rainforests, with views along the eastern cataract and also upriver alongside the falling water. Zambia’s infamous Knife Edge Bridge connects two buttresses and offers the unique 360° rainbow only seen when the sun hits a perfect angle.

• Hike down the gorge to watch the full extent of the Zambezi waters churning through a thin gully at what is known as the ‘boiling pot’, and look up at the cliffs towering above.

• Get soaked - by February Victoria Falls are sufficiently full again to guarantee a thorough soaking from their spray.

• Helicopter and microlight flights over the Falls allow you to admire the spray and magnitude of water flowing.

• The lunar rainbow at Full Moon is a true wonder to experience. Walk the forest pathways at night with the thundering sound of water cascading and the gentle shimmer of a rainbow lit up by the full moon.

• As the Devil’s Pool becomes submerged, visits to Livingstone Island offer a swim in the Angel’s Armchair instead, also on the edge of the falls, equally thrilling and usually possible until more or less the end of March. set of rapids as they change their nature of flow, also usually available until end of

March, with just too much water passing over the Falls in April and May to allow for visits to Livingstone island and/or rafting trips. • From March - May, the abundance of water plummeting over Victoria Falls makes for a real soiree for the senses - feeling the force of the water, hearing the thunder of the

Falls, and being drenched in the spray. In certain viewing areas this does not allow you to see too far ahead!

• Why not wander across the historic railway bridge from Zambia to Zimbabwe, to view the Falls from other angles and access points?

Cliché to say we love it all? But there are certain things about each part of this annual cycle that appeal, and which largely comes with the assurance that the cycle will repeat itself – and those of us living here get to experience it all, without having only a couple of days to do so. And whilst Victoria Falls are the draw-card for many visiting Livingstone, there’s enough to do in the region to keep anyone occupied for several days.

5 UNIQUE WAYS TO ENJOY VICTORIA FALLS DURING YOUR VISIT TO LIVINGSTONE

• A walk to the Boiling Pot (all seasons) • Crossing the knife-edge bridge (all seasons) • Microlight Flight above the Falls (all seasons) • A visit to Livingstone Island (June – March) • Exploring Under the Falls (low water) Seasons in a nutshell

High Water – mid-January until mid-July

Very full Falls, a large cloud above the Falls, a guaranteed soaking when viewing the Falls, a fast flowing and wide river to experience.

Low Water – August until December

Dryer Falls, allowing for access to the breathtaking spots under and on top of the Falls, interesting channels and sandbanks in the upper river.

Wet Season – November/ December until March, and sometimes early April

Summer time, with warm temperatures, moody skies and beautiful sunsets, a lush green landscape, showers and thunderstorms. A beautiful time to be in the area.

Dry Season – April/ May until November

Winter through to Summer. Clear skies, no rain, an increasingly dryer landscape – a great time for safaris. Cool temperatures and misty mornings at the onset of the dry season, with the earth warming up increasingly from the middle of August, until the rains arrive towards the end of November. Smokey sunsets from the dust in the air.