Mosi-oa-Tunya, and the mighty Zambezi River

MOSI-OA-TUNYA, and the mighty Zambezi River [ WRITER / PHOTOS: Tessa Buhrmann ]

No one can deny the awe-inspiring sight that 540-million cubic metres of water plunging 180m into a narrow chasm creates. Nor the spray plume that is visible from about 20km away, drenching everyone that walks the nearby paths in light rain, or the myriads of rainbows that dance within its spray.

It was this plume that led the Tonga people, known as the Batoka/Tokalea, to call the falls Shungu na mutitima, meaning ‘boiling water’ or in some cases, ‘roaring lion’, the Matabele called it aManz’ aThunqayo, ‘water that roars’ and the Kalolo-Lozi people, Mosi oa Tunya, ‘the smoke that thunders’.

In November 1855, escorted by members of the Makololo tribe, David Livingstone made his way by canoe down the mighty Zambezi. At a distance of ‘five or six miles’ they saw plumes of what looked like smoke rising in the distance. The wide lazy expanse of water would have soon gathered speed and the distant roar would have become thunderous. His Makololo guides led him to what is now called Livingstone Island directly upstream from the Falls and accessible from the Zambian shore. It is from here that he crept with awe to the verge… “I peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambezi and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen to twenty yards… the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa” – David Livingstone.

Said to have been the first European to have set eyes on this magnificent sight he penned the well-known words: “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight” and so awed was he that he named it the Victoria Falls, after his Queen. Maps from 1715 and 1750 however show that he was not the first European to set eyes on the falls but was the first to spread the word of its existence to the Western World. And despite its historical and cultural significance as Mosi oa Tunya, the name Victoria Falls has stuck and, in this marketing-orientated world is the brand by which this natural wonder of the world is most known.

As the largest waterfall in the world, based on width (1.7km) and height (108m), and which combined creates the largest single sheet of flowing water during its peak, it is worthy of inclusion in the Seven Wonders of the World. Additionally, in 1989 the Victoria Falls was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – meaning it belongs to all the peoples of the world, irrespective of where they come from. And come, they certainly do!

Here are a few of the ways visitors can experience the splendour of Mosi oa Tunya and the mighty Zambezi River…

Get drenched in the spray:

There is nothing more exhilarating than getting drenched in the spray created as the mighty Zambezi plunges into the depths below – and you will be, whether you’re wearing a poncho or not. Walk the slippery trails through the verdant rainforest, where ferns grow with abandon under a canopy of rain. Be in awe as you gaze upon the Falls from various viewpoints and appreciate the thunderous

sound of Mosi oa Tunya. The Zimbabwe side has more viewpoints, but the Zambian side enables you to get much closer and crossing the metal knife-edge footbridge offers an adrenalin rush all its own with intense spray (March to May) and the churning waters clearly visible. High water season is generally from about February to July and low-water season from August to January, but no matter what time of year you visit, the awe-inspiring Falls will be a highlight.

Hike down to the boiling pot:

For a completely different perspective, pull on the hiking boots and head along the wellmarked trail from the Zambian side parking lot into a different world. Navigate a thick jungle of tropical primary rainforest, overhanging vines and palm trees, stepping carefully as you cross streams to finally be rewarded with an exceptional view of the towering basalt walls and waterfall from below, as well as the churning water of the Boiling Pot before they make their way down the Batoka Gorge. For obvious reasons, this is a low-water season activity that takes several hours depending on fitness level due to the steepness of the descent and ascent.

Explore Livingstone Island:

During the low-water season, it is possible to take a boat from the Zambian side to Livingstone Island. It is here that David Livingstone peered over the edge and using a piece of string weighed down by a few bullets in a square calico cloth attempted to measure the depth of the falls. As Livingstone Island is a protected area much care is taken to protect its natural habitat so there is only one company that is licenced to conduct Livingstone Island tours, which includes the option of a swim in Devil’s Pool. The tour starts with a five-minute speed boat ride through the fast-moving currents and rocky channels, followed by a tour of the island with spectacular views - a completely different perspective to that seen from the opposite side of the chasm. The adrenalin inclined then have the option of swimming in Devil’s Pool, a deep pool created by thousands of years of erosion and protected by a rock ledge on the lip of the Falls.

Take to the air:

There is no better way to get a perspective of the expanse of the Zambezi River being squeezed into a narrow chasm than from the air. The anticipation is great as one climbs aboard the helicopter for the aptly named ‘Flight of Angels’. Leaving from the helipad on the Zimbabwe side one gets a birds-eye view of the islands, channels and ‘smoke’ rising in the distance. Flying a figure-eight pattern, so that all occupants get the perfect view, the extent of the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls and the Batoka Gorge beyond becomes evident. Those with a penchant for adventure may prefer to do the microlight flight, an experience only available from the Zambian side. As the only passenger, along with the pilot, you will get a sense of the raw power of the Falls, as well as breath-taking aerial views.

Leap off a bridge:

If you’re looking for a terrifying, challenging and crazy experience, the Victoria Falls Bungee Jump is sure to fulfil. Besides being one of the most scenic bungees in the world, the 111-meter free-fall and four seconds of unadulterated adrenalin rush will leave your heart pumping and your knees quaking. The Victoria Falls Bridge links Zimbabwe to Zambia and is part of a rail network envisaged by Cecil John Rhodes as a link from the Cape to Cairo. Just remember that as it is located in no man’s land between the Zimbabwe and Zambia border you will need your passport.

Swing over the Batoka Gorge:

If the idea of bungee jumping is way out of your comfort zone, but you still want an adrenalin rush, then the Wild Horizon’s Adventure activities over the Batoka Gorge are an option. Experience the adrenalin rush of the Zipline as you hurtle 425m across the gorge while suspended 120m above the churning

Zambezi River. A slightly tamer option is the Gorge Swing which has you free-falling 70m before swinging over the gorge, and for an even tamer experience, the Flying Fox will have you flying horizontally through the air over the gorge.

Raft the rapids:

The Batoka Gorge is considered to be one of the world’s premier white-water experiences and is said to have some of the most exciting and challenging rapids on the planet, with 23 navigable rapids during the low water season, and 13 in the high water season. An experience that is not for the faint-hearted or those averse to getting wet – you are guaranteed to get drenched, numerous times!

Cruise on the Zambezi River:

Whether early morning to catch the sunrise, late afternoon for sundowners or any time in between, make sure you take some time out from all the adventures and relax on the water. Watch as vervet monkeys frolic in the riverine bush, male hippos jostle for superiority and to claim their turf, and crocodiles as they laze on the riverbanks soaking up the sun. Perhaps you’ll be lucky and spot an elusive leopard or a herd of elephants on the water’s edge. Keep your binoculars at hand as you may spot grey-headed parrots flying overhead, white-fronted bee-eaters as they fly to-andfro from their nest holes in steep riverbanks or the elusive African finfoot as it scurries out of sight in the overhanging branches and undergrowth. Or just sit back and take in the magnificent views – palm trees, lush vegetation and in the distance, the ‘smoke that thunders’.