Vara by mabrouka jalyl

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THE SIGHTS OF MALE’

LUXURY RETREAT

THE BACKWATERS

INTRIGUE IN GAN

Male’ with its teeming population and colourful skyline is the one stop place to see different aspects of Maldives. From a bustling fishmarket, a museum that showcases 2000 year old history of Maldives, to dozens of seafront Kurumba Gaadiya’s, Aishath Shazra explores the sights of Male’ that makes this unique capital come alive.

Shangri La’s Villingili Resort and Spa, nestled in the southern edge of Addu Atoll is the only luxurious resort of its kind.A classy combination of luxury and nature, the resort offers topnotch accomodation with its Villa’s that come with its own swimming pools alongside such diverse activities such as guided nature walks. Anne Paylor writes about a luxury retreat where its possible to get a glimpse of Maldivian culture while enjoying the finest services on offer.

Sunil Vaidyanathan and Shayoni Mitra explores Kerala, the land of green magic, and explains why a cruise along the famous backwaters holds such allure.

The airport at Gan came about because of imperialism, political intrigue and a local rebellion that few visitors could guess at, as their aircraft taxis to the terminal, writes Royston Ellis.

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OF KERALA

WRITERS

Aishath Shazra Anne Paylor Kaneeru Abdull Raheem Nick Walton Royston Ellis Sunil Vaidyanathan Shayoni Mitra Thomas Pickard

PHOTOGRAPHY

Ahmed Zahid Beach House Maldives, A Waldorf Astoria Resort Moosa Hassan Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa Sunil Vaidyanathan Shayoni Mitra Shaahina Ali Yassin Hameed

TRANSLATIONS

PUBLISHER

Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd (for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd) M. Bageechaa Keneree Magu Male’ 20191 Republic of Maldives vara@bynd.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR David Kotthoff

ADVERTISING

Hassan Hisham

DESIGN & LAYOUT

DISCLAIMER

VARA is published twice a year by Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the publisher. Although every effort is made to ensure information is correct at press time, Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd and Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd do not represent or endorse the accuracy or reliability of any of the information, content or advertisements contained in this magazine, nor the quality of any products, information or other materials displayed, purchased, or obtained by you as a result of an advertisement or any other information or offer in or in connection with this magazine and expressly disclaim liability for errors and omissions in any and all contents.

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Novelty Printers & Publishers Pvt Ltd

Hilath Rasheed Kaneeru Abdull Raheem

MALDIVES: UNIQUE ATOLLS

ISLAND OF LEGEND

62 REFLECTIONS OF MALDIVES Kaneeru Abdul Raheem charts the journey of Maldives from the early 50’s to the present day, highlighting the radical changes that have occurred

INTERVIEW WITH A PIONEER

MALDIVES WATER EVRY DROP COUNTS

THE BIRTH OF OVERWATER BUNGALOWS

UP CLOSE & PERSONAL WITH MANTA RAYS

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MALDIVES: UNIQUE

ATOLLS VARA 02

TAKES US ON

A FASCINATING JOURNEY THROUGH THE ARCHIPELAGO, POINTING OUT THE UNIQUE ASPECTS OF THE ATOLLS

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f you were to view the Maldives from space on a clear day, the country would stretch before you, covering 90,000 square kilometres of some of the best aquatic real estate the Indian Ocean has to offer. Dotting this watery canvas you would see 1,190 palm-fringed, beachladen islands, looking like tiny stars set against an endless expanse of deep blue sea. You would make out 25 distinct atolls – complete with reefs, lagoons and sandbars - hinting at the volcanic origins of this island chain, which rises above the Indian Ocean’s Laccadive-Maldive Ridge. The atolls that make up the Maldives form a unique tropical landscape on the world map. The word ‘atoll’ is the only English word derived from Dhivehi. ‘Atholhu’ refers to an administrative district within the Maldives, which has generally revolved around the geographical atolls of the Maldives.

As visitors would know, the Maldives is a flat country with very few highpoints. Faridhoo Island in South Thiladhunmathee Atoll (Haa Dhaalu) has the title as the highest natural point in the country. At just 2.5 metres above the sea, Faridhoo is the closest thing the Maldives has to a hill. The Dhivehi language is based in part on the Thaana script. On Kanditeem Island in north Miladhunmadulu Atoll (Shaviyani), there is a doorframe with a Thaana script that has been dated to 1588. It is the oldest known example of the Thaana script in the archipelago. On the 26th December 2004 tragedy struck the Maldives. The Boxing Day Tsunami damaged many islands but none more

The Maldivian islands and atolls are full of interesting stories and anecdotes. Some of these stories relate to the earliest navigators who willingly risked life and limb circumnavigating the Maldives treacherous waters, while others relate to straight geographic facts. What follows are just some of these stories from across the atolls. Utheemu Island in North Thiladhunmathee (also know as Haa Alifu atoll) is the birthplace of Maldivian legend Mohammed Bodu Thakurufaanu. In 1573 Thakurufaanu led a small group of men on a guerrilla style assault of the capital Male’, freeing the country from the 15 year Portuguese occupation. Thakurufaanu went on to rule the next sultanic dynasty as Sultan Ghazi Mohammed. Today, Thakurufaanu’s heroic efforts are celebrated annually on National Day.

The five-star Beach House Maldives run by Waldorf Astoria Resorts is the northern most resort in the country. Situated in the sublime Ihavandhippolhu Atoll (Haa Alifu), the resort was the first in the country to open an art gallery. Today the Art Gallery is home to an ongoing showcase of Maldivian Artists’ work and a resident artist program.

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DUE SOUTH OF THULUSDHOO ISLAND, OFF THE TIP OF HIMMAFUSHI ISLAND, IS ONE OF THE BEST RIGHT-HAND SURFING POINT BREAKS IN THE COUNTRY. KNOWN AS ‘JAILBREAKS’ OR SIMPLY ‘JAILS’, THIS REELING RIGHT-HANDER IS NAMED AFTER THE NEARBY GAAMADHOO PRISON.

so then Kandholhudhoo Island in North Maalhosmadulu Atoll (Raa). The Tsunami swept across the island, destroying homes and killing 3 people. In the years that followed a number of international aid donors funded a 42 million dollar three-year project to relocate the displaced population to the previously uninhabited Dhuvaafaru Island. Dhuvaafaru has 600 housing units, three schools, and a sewerage system and is the first community in recent times to be built from scratch. The Hani Kandu channel, separating North Maalhosmadulu Atoll (Raa) from South Maalhosmadulu Atoll (Baa), is also known as the Moresby Channel. Named after Commander Robert Moresby, who in 1834, spent two years on his vessel Benares criss-crossing the Maldives charting the innumerable reefs, channels and islands. The final charts were published in 1839 and over 170 years later are still respected for their accuracy. On the night of the 2nd of July 1602, the French Navigator Francois Pyrard de Laval and his ship the Corbin ran aground on the reef on the northern side of Goidhoo Atoll (Baa). The next day, after fashioning a raft of sorts, Pyrard and his men took “swords, arquebuses, and small pikes, and pulled towards the islands”, eventually arriving at what Pyrard called Pouladou, the present day Fulhadhoo Island. Despite the islanders’ initial hospitality, Pyrard

and his men battled starvation, sickness and a beating for an escape attempt. Many of Pyrard’s crew died within the first two months. Five years later Pyrard escaped during a Bengali raid on the capital. Pyrard’s book – The Voyage of Francois Pyrard of Laval to the East Indies, the Maldives, the Moluccas and Brazil – contains a detailed account of his shipwreck and time living ‘against his will’ in the Maldives. Tuna fishing, along with tourism, is the lifeblood of the Maldivian economy. Felivaru Island on Faadhippolhu Atoll (Lhaviyani) houses one of the largest tuna processing and cannery facilities in the country. The state owned facility handles tonnes of Skipjack and Yellow fin tuna daily and employs 900 people. Thulusdhoo, the capital island of North Male’ Atoll (Kaafu) is home to the only Coca-Cola factory in the country. Situated beneath coconut palms, the factory produces the world famous drink from desalinated seawater. Due south of Thulusdhoo Island, off the tip of Himmafushi Island, is one of the best right-hand surfing point breaks in the country. Known as ‘Jailbreaks’ or simply ‘Jails’, this reeling right-hander is named after the nearby Gaamadhoo Prison. President Nasheed served a threeyears sentence at this jail for a charge of dissident journalism. The jail was closed after a fire in 1998.

Despite being known for year round warm temperatures, the thermometer at the National Meteorological Centre in Male’ dipped to an incredible low of 17.2 degrees on the 11th April 1978. Thirty years later, this still stands as the lowest recorded temperature in the nation. The original airport where Male’ International Airport now stands, was once known as Hulhule’ Airport, so named because it was on Hulhule’ Island. Opened in 1960 when Hulhule’ Island was still inhabited; the runway was just one kilometre in length and made of basic steel sheeting. The shortness of the runway meant larger planes had to land in Sri Lanka and visitors had to transfer to a smaller aircraft for the flight to the Maldives. Fast forward 50 years and today, Male’ International Airport is a glorious piece of flat asphalt 3 kilometres long, 45 metres wide and just 2 metres above sea level, servicing both private jets and large passenger aircraft from around the globe. Whale Sharks are technically the world’s largest fish and are justifiably a major drawcard for snorkellers and divers. Each year from December to March, plankton-rich water is flushed out over the southwestern fringe of South Ari Atoll (Alifu Dhaalu), providing a fertile feeding ground for the migratory whale shark. From 2006 to 2008, the Maldives Whale Shark Expedition logged 99 days, searching for 13 hours a day for the great ocean going

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At 5km long by 1km wide, Fuvamulah Atoll (Gnaviyani) is the largest island in the nation. Geographically, Fuvamulah isn’t so much an atoll, as it is an island. Renowned Archaeologist Harry Charles Purvis Bell discovered the remains of a 7-metre high hawitta in poor condition on the island during a Ceylon Government sponsored archaeological expedition in the early 1900s. Bell stipulated that the dome like structure was the remains of a Buddhist stupa. Though the Maldives declared independence from Britain in 1965, sixyears earlier the United Suvadive Islands, made up of Huvadhoo, Fuvamulah and Addu Atolls (Seenu), under the leadership of Abdulla Afeef Didi declared independence from the Maldives. The Republic ended three years later, when the then President Nasir sent a military force to capture Didi and disband his breakaway government. Didi managed to escape to The Seychelles and the United Suvadive Islands was relegated to the history books.

5 creatures for research purposes. The team encountered 220 whale sharks, averaging two sightings per day. The research proves that Whale Sharks are out there – all you need is patience to spot them. Though split into two administrative districts, North (Gaafu Alif) and South Huvadhoo (Gaafu Dhaalu) is

geographically one complete atoll. At 82 kilometres long and 65 kilometres wide, Huvadhoo Atoll is the largest coral atoll in the world.

Situated just south of the equator, the heart-shaped Addu Atoll is the country’s southernmost atoll. Selected as a staging post for British aircraft during World War II, the development of Gan Island into a military base resulted in the displacement of almost 800 Maldivian inhabitants. Moved to neighbouring Feydhoo Island, the displaced islanders were provided with British-built housing, some of which is still used today. A silver lining from the British presence was the construction of causeways connecting Gan, Feydhoo, Maradhoo-Feydhoo and Hithadhoo Islands. The 14-kilometre causeway is the longest road in the nation.

The Meteorological Office on Kadhdhoo Island holds the countries highest recorded temperature. A blistering 36.8 degrees was measured here on the 19th May 1991.

Thomas Pickard is a writer/photographer and a former Maldives resident. He returns to the Maldives annually for photographic assignments. Photo 1: Chain of Islands, a unique tropical landscape Photo 2: One of the best Surfing point situated in Kaafu Atoll Photo 3: Beach House Maldives in HA. atoll Photo 4: the newly inhabited Dhuvaafaru Island Photo 5: Gan Island in Seenu Atoll

Photos by: Beach House Maldives, A Waldorf Astoria Resort / Yassin Hameed / Ahmed Zahid

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MALE’ WITH ITS TEEMING POPULATION AND COLOURFUL SKYLINE IS THE ONE STOP PLACE TO SEE DIFFERENT ASPECTS OF MALDIVES. FROM A BUSTLING FISHMARKET, A MUSEUM THAT SHOWCASES 2000 YEAR OLD HISTORY OF MALDIVES, TO DOZENS OF SEAFRONT KURUMBA GAADIYAS, EXPLORES THE SIGHTS OF MALE’ THAT MAKES THIS UNIQUE CAPITAL COME ALIVE.

THE

SIGHTS OF

MALE’ M

ale’ (pronounced Maa-lay), the Maldivian capital, is just two square kilometres in size but is home to 150,000 souls, making it the world’s most densely populated capital city. For lack of land, the residents have built upwards, resulting in a colourful skyline of multi-story buildings. A multi-faceted city, Male’ juxtaposes the laid back feel of an island with the frantic pace of a city. Motorcycles whizz along narrow streets while pedestrians walk languidly. The historic with the new, local eateries with modern restaurants, Male’ is a great place to spend a few hours and appreciate the diversity of modern Maldives.

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KURUMBAA GAADIYA

Dotted all along the south side of Male’ on the seafront are Kurumba Gaadiya (tender coconut carts). The carts sell anything from bottled water, soft drinks to the more traditional Maldivian snacks like Maskaashi (coconut and dried fish with other assortments), Ambu Majaa (a mix of green mangoes, chilli and onions finished off with fish paste). The carts also sell Billaigandu (betel leaves with areca nuts) chewed as a mouth freshener after meals.

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But the most popular item from these carts is its namesake, Kurumba the tender coconut. Stacks of Kurumba are heaped near the cart, just point out one you like and with some expert moves of his knife the seller will clean it cut the top off and presents it to you with a straw. The stalls open up each day with the first cooling breeze of the evening and close around 1 am at night. Since the carts

first appeared in late 90’s it has become a permanent fixture in the local scene. No evening stroll or motorcycle ride is complete without a stopover at a cart. The Maldivian equivalent to western café terraces, sit with a Kurumba in hand, enjoying the setting sun’s rays or watching the world go by.

FISHMARKET The Male’ fish market is one of the busiest places in Male’. The market a beehive of activities stands in sharp contrast to the laid back attitude that permeates most aspects of Maldives. The catch of the day is unloaded on to a cart, or carried expertly in hand 5 to 6 fish in one, across to the open-sided fish market. Sail fish, reef fish, the odd octopus, baitfish and all sorts of seafood items can be found here. However it’s the king of fish and the staple of Maldivian diet, the tuna that is sold in abundance. The fishes are laid out on the tiled floor, with each seller standing near his lot. Customers come and haggle for a good price, money exchanges hands and people walk away with their fish.

3 For those not in the mood to gut their own fish, the fishmongers lined up in a row behind their sinks will cut and gut the fish for as little as less than a dollar. A visit to the fish market is a must, to see the trading of the industry that has been the lifeblood of Maldivians for centuries.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM The new, three-story national museum is located in the Southwestern corner of Sultan’s Park. The exhibits are arranged according to time periods. The Ancient period collection gives one a glimpse of the pre-Islamic era of Maldives. A delicately carved 6th century coral stone head and a scary looking figure of demon from the 9th century are some of the displays here. Medieval period and Contemporary period make up the collection of the museum. The museum also boasts of a Marine collection where the pride of place is given to a skeleton of Longman’s Beaked Whale. The 20-foot skeleton is the only one of its kind along with one in Japan. A Quran collection exhibits ancient handwritten Qurans and even one that was found

washed ashore in Alifu Atoll. The Museum is a place that encompasses the 2000-year history of Maldives under one roof.

AZUR To chill out in place that offers a superb view, the rooftop of the tallest building in Male’ is hard to beat.

the planes land at the nearby airport island.

Azur the rooftop restaurant of the 15th floor Traders hotel is a one of a kind spot in Male’. The view of the harbour and beyond with the blue sea stretching out as far as the eye can see is a sight to behold.

Order a Pineapple chilli frappe, a strawberry lassi or if you fancy a flavoured hookah, and enjoy an oasis of calm in the frantic city.

It is the perfect place to spend an afternoon: lying back by the infinity pool or watching

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FRUIT & VEGETABLE BAZAAR Bananas, mangoes, yams, chillies, sweet potatoes are piled on high in the little squares of the fruit and vegetable bazaar. Located in North West neighbouring the fish market, the bazaar is the place where Maldivian food produce is sold. Across the road ships that have come from all corners of Maldives unload their wares. Mangoes and bananas from Fuvamulah in the south, Watermelons from Thinadhoo, each island that farms sells their produce here. Locals and tourists alike weave in and out of the little stalls. Cheerful and colourful the bazaar is a beehive of activities and recalls to mind the bazaars of other South Asian countries. This is the ideal place to sample the flavours of Maldives.

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HUKURU MISKIIY

MULEE AAGE It would be almost impossible to walk past the distinct blue and white colonial style villa without pausing to admire it. Mulee aage with its wrought iron gates and rooftop fretwork friezes is currently the President’s Official Residence.

1953, Mulee aage was, off and on, used as the official residence of successive presidents. In 2008, President Mohamed Nasheed was elected into office and Mulee aage was once again made the official residence of the President.

The Hukuru Miskiiy (Friday Mosque) built in 1658 is one of the finest examples of coral stone architecture and detailed lacquer work in the Maldives. Its timeless beauty is a testament to the skill and expertise of local masons and carpenters.

Located in front of Friday mosque, it is a villa with a colourful history. Mulee aage was built in 1906 by Sultan Mohamed Shamsudeen III for his son and heir, Prince Hassan Izzuddin. The prince used it as his residence until his banishment, thus the villa was never used as a royal palace. When Maldives became a Republic in

Mulee aage’s immaculate gardens were used to grow vegetables during the food shortages of the Second World War. Queen Elisabeth II stayed in Mulee aage during her visit in 1973, as well as the late Indian Prime Minister India Rajiv Gandhi. Mulee aage, is one of the most famous landmarks of Male’.

The mosque was built on the orders of the then reigning Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar I. The round minaret adjoining the mosque compound was built 17 years later. A cemetery with beautifully carved coral tombstones is part of the mosque compound, and it also houses the tomb of Sultan Iskandar I.

Photo 1: Arial view of Male’ and its dense population. Photo 2: Kurumba Gaadiya (tender coconut cart) getting ready for their daily business. Photo 3- 4: Fisherman and customers at the busy surrounding of fish market. Photo 5: Cheerful and colourful atmosphere of the fruit and vegtable bazaar. Photo 6: Mulee aage built in 1906 by Sultan Mohamed Shamsudeen III. Photo 7: Hukuru Miskiiy (Friday Mosque) built in 1658 Aishath Shazra is a freelance writer based in Male’. Photos by: Ahmed Zahid

Hukuru Miskiiy has remained virtually unchanged since it was first built and has been continuously used as a religious congregation place throughout the centuries. Hukuru Miskiiyis has been added to the tentative list of UNESCO world heritage sights.

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A virgin island. Powder white sand. Palm trees. Crystal clear turquoise water. Dolphins frolicking and rainbows of ﬁsh shimmering in and around the coral reef. Welcome to Laamu, Six Senses new resort on the island of Olhuveli, deep in the Indian Ocean. The 100 villas have been carefully designed to complement nature. Each allows utter privacy. Near to the peaceful blue lagoon is a surfer’s paradise, with majestic ten foot waves. At night, Six Senses Laamu really starts to rock. The Chill bar is built over the water, with a world class cocktail list. The wine ‘cellar’, Altitude, is a tower of spun glass, rising high out of the sea, and a choice of restaurants oﬀers world class food and wine. There is a Kid’s Club, a Six Senses Spa and many daily excursions to choose from. For more information please contact: Tel: +960 680 0800 E-mail: reservations-laamu@sixsenses.com

MA L D I V ES

www.sixsenses.com

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www.sixsenses.com

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ISLAND OF 20

LEGEND

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UTHEEM, JUST A FEW MINUTES SPEED BOAT RIDE FROM THE AIRPORT AT HANIMAADHOO, IS ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING MALDIVIAN RESIDENTIAL ISLANDS TO VISIT, WRITES THAT’S BECAUSE IT WAS THE CHILDHOOD HOME OF THE MAN WHO BECAME A MALDIVES’ LEGEND, MOHAMED BODU THAKURUFAAN.

ohamed Thakurufaan has grown into legend in modern Maldives because he was the instigator of the revolt in 1573 that ousted the Portuguese occupiers, paving the way for the formation of the Maldives today. Yet he began life as a day-dreaming lad, the wayward son of a 16th century island trader. Before resorts in the north were built that are now served by the airport at Hanimaadhoo, very few foreigners made the trip to Utheem, yet the island is a symbol of the resilience that is characteristic of the Maldives today. Hanimaadhoo, in the north of South Thiladhunmathee Atoll (Haa Dhaalu), has a good anchorage and there is now a jetty within walking distance from the airport for the transport of tourists to the resorts. The island is well developed with over 500 inhabitants, paved roads, cars, and a hydroponic horticulture project.

Visitors to Utheem now generally go on organised excursion from their resorts. Only a few years ago, visitors had to charter a dhoni and jump from its bow into the sea and wade ashore, like the ancient mariners. In Utheem, a broad avenue of sand leads from the beach to a grand, gnarled tree protected by a wall and known as the Sea Trumpet Tree (Cordia subcordata). Part of the legend is that this tree grew from a branch planted by Mohamed Thakurufaan while he was repairing his weaving loom. Weaving was an established industry during the 16th century and the tree is said to date from 1540. To learn more about Mohamed Thakurufaan, visitors head for the Bodu (Great) Thakurufaan Memorial Centre first opened in 1986 but greatly refurbished since then. It stands at the edge of an open square lined with trees in whose shade men loll in the coir-webbed chairs called joli, just as they have done for centuries. There is such an unhurried air about Utheem, unless your resort guide rushes you along, so it is easy to imagine the

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reverence of a simple home. A guide will explain a strange freak of ancient architecture that allows a reflection of visitors to be seen through closed panels. Visitors are also taken to the mosque where Mohamed Thakurufaan’s father is buried, and where he himself worshipped. The fascination of a visit to Utheem has the importance of a pilgrimage for Maldivians who have been brought up with the story of Bodu Thakurufaan as the saviour of the nation. As a boy, he was a great worry to his prosperous merchant father, as he preferred to spend his time idling on the beach, lost in day dreams.

casual, even indifferent, way of life of the islanders five centuries ago. People prayed and relaxed when work was finished, gathering their strength for the arduous survival of each day. The Memorial Centre gives an inkling of the old life style but the real attraction is a 100 paces away, secluded by a walled and be-flagged compound. There lies what is reputed to be the original home of Mohamed Thakurufaan, a wooden cottage with sliding wooden doors.

It has been much renovated over the years but still, as you enter, you feel the medieval

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Legend has it that he would go to the beach and trap birds with his bare hands. After talking softly to them, warning them to be more careful and not let themselves be caught again, he would set them free. His brother Ali, 14-years older than he was, was already a knowledgeable seaman and his younger brother, Hassan, was happy playing normally with other children his age. Fortunately for Mohamed, his father recognised some inner strength and unique quality in the boy, perhaps sensing he was destined for greatness. Because the Portuguese had begun to take control of the islands’ trade, his wise father sent Mohamed to India away from the increasing Portuguese influence, so he could study religion and learn martial arts.

When Mohamed returned in 1562 it was to find the islands were enthralled to the Portuguese. The invaders were no longer interested solely in trade but in enslaving the islanders and forcing them to become Christians. The Portuguese cruelties inspired fear in the devout islanders, turning the simple, “children of the sea” into compliant vassals. Because of his seamanship and sense of duty, Mohamed impressed the Portuguese and worked with them, until he became witness to their treachery. This inspired him to make a pact with his two brothers, Ali and Hassan, to deliver the Maldives

from Portuguese occupation. He was able to build a fast boat, Kalouh Fummi, with which he and his small band of patriots raided islands occupied by the Portuguese, slaughtered them, and disappeared swiftly without trace.

THE FASCINATION OF A

The exploits of Mohamed Thakurufaan and his brothers and their small band of supporters inspired the islanders who began to resist, causing problems for the smooth governance by the Portuguese who were trying to maintain law and order. Driven to exasperation, the Portuguese governor finally issued an ultimatum that all Maldivians in Male’ must drink the Portuguese wine, thereby swearing allegiance to Portugal and Christianity.

WITH THE STORY OF BODU

VISIT TO UTHEEM HAS THE IMPORTANCE OF A PILGRIMAGE FOR MALDIVIANS WHO HAVE BEEN BROUGHT UP THAKURUFAAN AS THE SAVIOUR OF THE NATION.

That night, 30 June 1573, Mohamed Thakurufaan returned to Male’ unnoticed. He and his men attacked the Portuguese stockade, killed the governor, routed the invaders and restored Islam and independence to the islands. It is a wonderful, inspiring story that conveys the intimacy of personal history as well as historical legend for everyone who makes the trip to Utheem.

Royston Ellis (www.roystonellis.com), a British writer resident in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives since 1980, is the author of many books on the islands, including A Hero In Time, based on the life of Mohamed Thakurufaan. Photo by: Ahmed Zahid

THE ORIGINAL HOME OF MOHAMED THAKURUFAAN, A WOODEN COTTAGE WITH SLIDING WOODEN DOORS. AS YOU ENTER, YOU FEEL THE MEDIEVAL REVERENCE OF A SIMPLE HOME.

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SHANGRI LA’S VILLINGILI RESORT AND SPA, NESTLED IN THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF ADDU ATOLL IS THE ONLY LUXURIOUS RESORT OF ITS KIND. A CLASSY COMBINATION OF LUXURY AND NATURE, THE RESORT OFFERS TOP-NOTCH ACCOMMODATION ALONGSIDE DIVERSE ACTIVITIES SUCH AS GUIDED NATURE WALKS AND JUNGLE DINNERS. WRITES ABOUT A LUXURY RETREAT THAT GIVES A VISITOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPERIENCE MALDIVIAN CULTURE WHILE ENJOYING SOME OF THE FINEST SERVICE ON OFFER

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LUXURY RETREAT BECKONS FROM THE SOUTHERN TIP OF THE MALDIVES CHAIN

JUST SOUTH OF THE EQUATOR LIES ADDU ATOLL, A LITTLE HEART SHAPED ATOLL THAT MARKS THE MOST SOUTHERLY EXTREME OF THE MALDIVES. AT THE EDGE OF THAT LIES THE ARCHIPELAGO’S SOUTHERNMOST LUXURY RESORT AND THE ONLY ONE OF ITS KIND SOUTH OF ‘THE LINE’

hangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa opened its doors in July 2009 on the island of Villingili, a gem of an island clad in a dense cloak of natural vegetation that discreetly camouflages most of the resorts low-profile buildings. The island’s 12 hectares are home to 17,000 palm trees, towering banyans, 45 species of plants, three natural lagoons, a variety of lizards, the ubiquitous Maldives fruit bats, at least one breeding pair of tropic birds (although otherwise the island is strangely void of birdlife), and a variety of nature trails. At three kms long, the resort offers ample opportunity for exploring on foot, and the six kilometres coastline includes two kilometres of white sandy beaches. The 132 villas are well spaced and it is only during meals times at the main restaurants that any sense of the size of the visitor population becomes apparent. The distance can also mean a 10 or 15 minute walk between your villa and many of the resorts facilities, which is why each villa is equipped with bicycles for guests. It is a great way to get around the

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island and explore. After dinner, however, there is nothing to match a gentle stroll back through the peaceful still of the late evening, draped in the warmth of tropical darkness, with just the whisper of a gentle breeze through the palm frond canopy and the occasional call of a fruit bat to disturb the quiet. The resort is also equipped with a fleet of electric buggies that can be summoned

at any time of the day or night â&#x20AC;&#x201C;via a mobile phone provided in the villa. A Villa Host is just a phone call away, who, if he can, will fulfil your every wish, from making restaurant reservations, supplying additional in-villa refreshments, booking activities, or indeed summoning that buggy. These phones also come in handy for arranging activities with other guests you may team up with during your visit.

ECO-FRIENDLY

The resort does its best to be eco-friendly and each villa is equipped with two solar panels to heat water, reducing energy consumption per villa by up to 50%. The island also has its own water bottling plant and uses reusable glass bottles, significantly reducing consumption of plastic bottles and the waste they create. This bottled water is available at minimal cost in all the restaurants and bars, and free of charge in the villas. The villas are large, spacious and luxurious and feature complimentary broadband internet access, an iPod docking station, a 40-inch LCD television with surroundsound audio feed throughout the villa, a DVD player, tea and coffee making facilities with an extensive selection of gourmet coffees and teas, and even a pillow menu (including buckwheat, hypo-allergenic, and contour). The airy bathrooms feature a huge oval bathtub and both indoor and outdoor showers. All land-based villas have their own private swimming pools and the water villas have an over-water hammock on the lower of the two (covered and uncovered) sundecks.

SNORKELLING PLAYGROUND

But it is the sea where Villingili really comes into its own: the breathtaking turquoise colour gives way to a host of treasures waiting to be discovered underneath the surface.

Close to the shoreline, a shallow coral garden allows for a colourful introduction to the myriad sea life and a first encounter

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with the signature blue surgeonfish that feature on so much Maldives promotional material. This is ideal for less experienced snorkelers and children. Beyond that, the house reef is a riot of colour and activity, with a wide variety of exotic fish, turtles, and coral. Unlike many of the other atolls, Addu escaped the worst of the widespread coral bleaching of 1998 and offers a spectacular snorkelling playground easily accessible from the shore. Guided snorkelling excursions on the reef include turtle watching, a House Reef tour, and night snorkelling. In addition, once a month, guests are invited to join staff cleaning up the house reef. There are also snorkel excursions to other sites in the lagoon or private trips can be arranged. All snorkel equipment is available on loan without charge for the duration of your stay. For divers, there are 25 world-class diving sites in the atoll, and a dive centre at the resort equipped with its own training pool and decompression chamber. Swimming and snorkelling lessons are also available, as are introductory scuba courses. Less energetic water activities include dolphin watching cruises, sunset cruises, by dhoni or on the resort’s luxury yacht, the ‘Horizon,’ and you can even hire the yacht to have lunch on the equator. The Horizon can also be chartered for day or overnight trips, or for dinner. Big game and night reef fishing trips are also available.

ISLAND LIFE

One of the delights of Villingili that differentiates it from many of the other resorts in the Maldives is that is an integral part of Addu Atoll and its vibrant community. Not only is Addu the main economic and administrative centre in

the south of the country, it also boasts the largest population outside the capital Male’: just over 30,000 people live on Addu’s seven inhabited islands. It also has the country’s second international airport – Gan – and its longest road. The 17 km causeway links the five western islands of the atoll.

demonstrations and fruit and vegetable carving classes, henna tattooing, and beach football.There is also a weekly film show under the stars, with an assortment of sofas, comfy armchairs, and four-poster divans relocated to the beach under the palm trees from where to watch the movie with the waves lapping gently in the background.

A day trip to the islands – an eight minute crossing by speedboat - provides a unique opportunity to explore the lifestyle and culture of the real Maldives. Minibus tours offer a quick and effort-free glimpse through some of the main villages, but the best way to really see the islands is by bicycle. There are no hills, the cycling is easy, and traffic minimal. There are few shops, and local coffee shops are worth a visit and there is always a warm welcome for visitors: English is widely spoken.

One of the activities not to be missed is the guided nature walk. This is led by a cheery young Maldivian called Unais who has gone to great lengths to learn about traditional forms of natural medicine used by the people of Addu Atoll over the centuries. His animated and informative nature walk reveals that there is so much more to this island than is obvious to the uninitiated. Unais finds carefully disguised lizards and other wildlife, knows the names of almost every plant and the uses that his forebears had for it (this was used as a plaster, that as a headache remedy, another for stomach pains, and yet another to reduce fever). Whether you are into nature walks or not, this walk is a fascinating eye opener to an aspect of Maldivian life.

But if you prefer to remain on terra firma, the daily menu of organised activities ranges from yoga and meditation,to fitness classes, origami and weaving classes, badminton and tennis lessons, cooking

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It also makes the experience of the weekly jungle dinner unmissable. Tables and chairs are moved into a clearing among the century old banyan trees for an al fresco feast. Alternatively, a private jungle dinner experience can be arranged by your Villa Host. Other private dining options include in-villa, on the beach, at the spa, or in the chef’s garden. The resort boasts three restaurants and three bars. Dr Ali’s – named after a much-loved Villingili doctor – is the resort’s haute cuisine dining experience, specialising in three distinct cuisines: from the Indian Ocean, the South China Sea, and the Arabian Gulf. Javvu, which in the local Dhivehi language means ‘atmosphere’, is the closest thing that Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa comes to café-style dining and is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Located close to the ocean, it offers a tropical island ambience, with tables on the beach as well as in the two pavilions. However, by far the most spectacular of the restaurants is the Fashala Lounge at the northern end of the island. Fashala is the local Dhivehi word for ‘the edge’ and the large airy open-sided restaurant, beautifully finished in local wood, looks out on the point where ocean meets lagoon and the tide changes. Seafood evenings are its speciality and quite exceptional.

of produce from the 35 farmers that make up the Addu Meedho Corporation Society. This included six types of fruit and 19 types of vegetable, and the resort hopes to increase this amount by 20% in 2011. As the name suggests, the resort also features a sumptuous spa complex, CHI, located on the highest point of the island 2.3 metres above sea level. Spanning more than 16,700 square metres, it features 11 treatment villas, private treatment rooms, lounging areas, steam rooms, outdoor gardens and bathing facilities along with two meditation pavilions and a yoga pavilion overlooking the Indian Ocean. But it is ultimately the people that make Villingili: not only are you addressed by name by most members of staff you encounter within 24 hours of your arrival (which is initially, mildly alarming), but the people of Addu are also immensely proud of their new resort. They are keenly aware of the tranquil haven that is Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa and are happy to share it with the lucky few who happen upon its shores for an all-toofleeting paradise island experience.

LOCAL PRODUCE

In May 2010, Bulgarian Chef Emil Minev joined the resort as Executive Chef and the quality of the food reflects the energy he puts into his role. A cheerful and enthusiastic presence around the resort, Emil likes to use fresh local products where available. He has been pivotal in encouraging local farmers to form a cooperative to ensure consistency in quality and quantity so that they can optimise sales of their produce to the resort. By the end of 2010, Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa had purchased more than 25,000 kg

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Born in Indonesia, Anne grew up in South India and has travelled extensively throughout her life and career, specialising in aviation and travel journalism while working in such diverse locations as Bahrain, Hong Kong, Cyprus and Saipan. She now lives in the UK, but continues to travel as widely as possible in her capacity as a freelance journalist. Anne holds a private pilot’s licence, is an avid photographer, and is very interested in marine conservation. Photos by: Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives

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INTERVIEW WITH A

PIONEER

CAN MALDIVES DO MORE TO PROTECT ITS FRAGILE ECOSYSTEM? ARE WE COMPETING OR COLLABORATING WITH SRI LANKA AS A TOURIST DESTINATION? VARA TALKS WITH HUSSAIN ‘CHAMPA’ AFEEF, ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF TOURISM IN MALDIVES, ON THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY.

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Hussain ‘Champa’ Afeef holds the distinction of being one of a handful of people to receive the first ever tourists to the Maldives at the tiny landing strip in Hulhumale, which served as an airport in 1972.

VARA talks to industry pioneer Afeef on the future of Maldivian tourism.

The arrival of 22 Italian tourists would be an inconspicuous affair in the Maldives today when the annual arrival exceeds 750,000. Back then Maldives was an unknown destination and resorts were an unheard of concept in the Maldives. Banks and telephones did not exist. Visitors were few and far between when the only way to get to Maldives was via ship from Sri Lanka, or the rare flights from Sri Lanka.

AFEEF: Yes, Maldives has so much more to offer. We have quite a rich and interesting history. Historians have found traces of people living in these islands about 2000 years ago. From sun

VARA: Do you think Maldives has more to offer to tourists then the Sun Sea and sand?

worshippers to Buddhism and to Islam, the islanders have undergone tremendous changes over the years. A lot of historical sites can be found scattered through out the archipelago. Of course like many other countries, these things might not appeal to the masses but those interested in history and culture would find this aspect of Maldives fascinating. The new transport system that had been put in place by the government has made these cultural spots easier to access. However, the success in

“We had no idea what we were doing, we just went with the flow” says Afeef, who along with his friends Ahmed Naseem and M.U. Maniku and Italian travel enthusiast George Corbin became the pioneers of Maldivian tourism. Despite the non-existent infrastructure, Afeef and his companions managed to make the visit of the group, consisting of writers and photographers, a success. They took it upon themselves to build the first resorts, with the help of Corbin whom Afeef says was the only person among them who had the slightest idea about tourism. The first two resorts were built in the islands closest to Male’, due to transport difficulties. Maniku, Naseem and Corbin invested in the first resort. No regulations existed for the industry and the Maldivian pioneers played it by ear, adapting to the demands of tourist and finding innovative methods to counter problems faced by lack of infrastructure. 39 years and 90 resorts later tourism is the largest and most lucrative industry in the Maldives. The country has also firmly established itself among the top most destinations of the world. Today Maldives is at the forefront of tourism, whether its innovative resort concepts or the creation of successful business models like the seaplane transfers.

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introducing cultural tourism in Maldives will depend on economics. Accessing these sites must be easy and affordable for the visiting tourists. VARA: We have an underwater spa, an underwater restaurant, and now a new resort that is being built is constructing an underwater bar, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next?

AFEEF: An underwater bedroom perhaps, it will be a very unique way of providing accommodation. After all, Maldives is

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more sea then land; 99% of our territory is the sea. We should showcase the beauty of our underwater gardens as much as possible without damaging them. In Maldives, the underwater beauty even outstrips the picture perfect postcard above the surface. VARA: Now that the war in Sri Lanka is over, will that affect tourism in Maldives? Are we competing or collaborating with Sri Lanka?

AFEEF: The two destinations compliment each other. It is the perfect combination of culture and beach holiday. Sri Lanka has a lot of easily accessible cultural sites. Maldives does not offer the affordable cultural and historical road trips that Sri Lanka offers in abundance. But Sri Lanka cannot compete with Maldivian beaches and the marine environment. The fact that these two destinations are just an hour away by flight makes this the perfect holiday combination.

VARA: A lot of reports about the Maldives shark ban and the value of protecting Whale and Manta rays in Maldives have appeared in the international press. Do you think more can be done to protect our ecosystem? AFEEF: With the shark ban we made people aware that killing a shark for their fins and teeth is a one off return, but that keeping them alive is more valuable to us economically and ecologically. Doing more awareness programs for the local as well as visiting population is the key to

preserving our natural beauty and heritage. We also need to find ways to harness the energy of the sun so we can move away from using harmful fossil fuels to generate electricity. VARA: Where do you see Maldives in 10 years? AFEEF: I see the Maldives as an environment friendly nation with mature, well to do citizens. With Islanders who can live side by side with their neighbors accepting their differing beliefs while

letting go of the mentality which conditions one to think that a person who does not hold the same views as me is against me. A society, where everyone can share in the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wealth.

Aishath Shazra is a freelance writer based in Maleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Photo by: MALDIVIAN / Beach House Maldives,A Waldorf Astoria Resort

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IS THE TAP WATER IN MALE’ AND THE RAIN WATER COLLECTED IN THE ISLANDS SAFE TO DRINK? ANSWERS THE PERENNIAL QUESTION THAT GOES THROUGH THE MINDS OF MANY A LOCAL AND FOREIGN VISITOR TO THIS BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.

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MALDIVES WATER EVERY DROP COUNTS

ike most people that arrive in the Maldives, I never gave a second thought to where my drinking water came from. In the capital Male’ where I spent my first few weeks, I quickly learnt that water from a plastic bottle was safe to drink and anything otherwise was not. As I would go on to learn, safe drinking water in the Maldives is a scarce and at times, under appreciated resource. From the air it becomes apparent pretty quickly that the Maldives is nearly all water. Statistically the Maldives is 300 km2 of land spread out over a staggering 90,000 km2 of the Indian Ocean. With islands 2-metres above sea level, there are no hills or mountains and hence no rivers or streams. While there are some small freshwater lakes, the Maldives has just two main natural sources of fresh water – rainwater and groundwater. My first encounter with the scarcity of water in the Maldives occurred during my second

month in the country. Accompanying my wife – a Hydrogeologist by profession – I spent a week on Madifushi Island in Thaa Atoll. On our first night the Maldivian lady whose house we were staying in, showed us how to draw water from the shallow well in the bathroom using just a bucket and a pole. As our host left the bathroom, my wife whispered to me “probably best not to drink that water”. Given she was on the island to take water samples from the wells, I heeded her advice. Though hidden from view, the country’s largest freshwater resources exist underground in small aquifers in the form of fresh water lenses. Like the well on Madifushi that we had to draw water from to wash in, these wells have traditionally also been used for drinking and cooking. Over time the shallow nature of these freshwater lenses has meant that they have become vulnerable to contamination from poorly maintained toilet systems and improper waste disposal.

When it comes to drinking water on the islands, islanders’ turn to the sky. Annually the Maldives receives on average 1,980 mm of water as rain. While rainfall is free, there are two main challenges with using rainwater as drinking water. Firstly, you have to capture and store the rainwater and secondly, you need to conserve the rainwater to ensure adequate supply during the dry season, which extends annually from December to March. Harvesting rainwater is simple enough. Add gutters to an existing roof (the bigger the area, the better) and funnel the water into a storage tank. From the mid-1980s the Maldives Government provided more than 1,700 cement rainwater tanks of 10,000 litre capacity and more than 3,000 tanks of 2,500 litre capacity to inhabited islands across the country. In the mid-1990s the Government switched to high-grade plastic tanks, which are commonly seen today. The larger tanks are used as community tanks, which are often placed next to schools or

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mosques, while individual households use the smaller tanks. In a report completed by the Maldives Water and Sanitation Authority (MWSA) in 2001, the uneven distribution of rainwater tanks amongst the islands was highlighted. Ribudhoo Island in Dhaalu Atoll reported that only 20 percent of households had rainwater storage tanks. In the years that followed the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami, various international donors worked with island communities in delivering and installing over 15,000 rainwater-harvesting tanks throughout the islands. With rainwater tanks in place, the final challenge islanders’ face is managing their supply of harvested rainwater through the dry season. Though there is occasional rain during the dry season, there can be dry spells of two months or more. To combat water shortages during this time, islanders’ rely on three strategies. First, harvest as much rainwater as possible during the wet season when the majority of rainfall occurs. Two, conserve harvested rainwater by using it for drinking and cooking purposes only. Lastly, use groundwater for bathing and general domestic use. On the second last day of our stay on Madifushi, my wife and her colleagues completed the setup and installation of a small emergency desalination plant on the island. The plant was installed as the island was on the verge of running out of safe drinking water, in part because of the influx of displaced people from a neighbouring island damaged by the Boxing Day Tsunami. To understand the implications and costs of using desalinated water, we turn to Male’, which is really the story of desalinated water usage in the Maldives.

From 1972 to 1974, the population of Male’ nearly doubled to 29,500 people. Not surprisingly the demands on the groundwater aquifer beneath the then sandy coral streets was enormous. It wasn’t long before the quantity of water being extracted far exceeded the quantity of recharge water going back into the aquifer. To complicate matters, the low-lying groundwater lense became polluted from the increased demands of the population

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CONSERVING WATER IS EVERYONE’S BUSINESS. FOR PRACTICAL TIPS, VISIT WWW.WATERUSEITWISELY.COM INTERNATIONAL WORLD WATER DAY IS ON THE 22ND OF MARCH 2011. THE THEME FOR 2011 IS WATER FOR CITIES. VISIT WWW. WORLDWATERDAY.ORG, TO LEARN MORE.

and in 1978 a cholera outbreak occurred in the capital. Responding to the situation, the government of the day instigated the Male’ Water Supply and Sewerage Project. From 1985 to 1988, steel water tanks with 9.9 million-litre capacity was installed; water was piped to 30 community taps around the city, and monitoring boreholes were put in place to monitor the quality of the groundwater. The newly installed sewerage infrastructure was capable of discharging untreated sewerage via 6 deep-sea outfalls around the island. Despite these infrastructure additions, the quality of the water beneath Male’ continued to decline. The steadily increasing reduction in recharge water filtering back into the groundwater lense opened the way for seawater intrusion, which meant the freshwater was being contaminated with seawater. By the early 1980s, the writing was on the wall. Male’ population continued to grow and the demand for water was insatiable. Combined with an inadequate

roofing catchment area for the collection of rainwater and a lack of physical space to install the required number of rainwater tanks to store the water, the city struggled to meet the demands of the island’s population. In 1988 Male’ had no real choice but to install the capitals first desalination unit. A desalination unit takes seawater and through sheer force pushes the water through a number of small membranes, eventually turning the water into safe drinking water. Initial capacity of the plant was 200,000 litres per day. Over the next 14-years successive plants were installed. By 2001, production was a staggering 5.8 million litres of water a day equivalent to two Olympic size swimming pools.Converting seawater to safe drinking water is an expensive business. The initial capital costs in setting up a large municipal plant typically run in the millions of dollars and the fuel used to run the plants needs to be imported into the country. Maintenance and training of operators is an ongoing expense.

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A Government analysis of water costs in early 2000 calculated that on average, 1,000 litres of desalinated water cost $3.56 US. With households using an average of 11,235 to 16, 853 litres of water a month, water was costing a household on average $40 to $60 US per month. At the time, this represented 6 to 9 percent of household income. Given the expense, people generally only used desalinated water for drinking, cooking and washing. For those unable to afford the cost of desalinated water, the Government ensured access by piping safe drinking water to a number of community taps around the capital. Seeing people gathered around a community tap in the late afternoon filling 20-litre water bottles is still a common sight in Maleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The most expensive form of water you can buy in the Maldives is a 1.5 litre of bottled water at a resort. Usually costing $2 US dollars, this is equivalent to $1,333 US per 1,000 litres of desalinated water. While some of this water is often imported mineral water, much of it is actually desalinated drinking water produced at the Coca-Cola plant on Thulusdhoo Island north of Maleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Packaged correctly as safe drinking water, few guests realise that they are in fact drinking desalinated water. Safe drinking water in the Maldives is a precious resource and one that shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be taken for granted. Conserving water is the first step to ensuring a longer lasting supply. When it comes to freshwater resources in this unique island nation, every drop counts.

Thomas Pickard is a writer/photographer and a former Maldives resident. He returns to the Maldives annually for photographic assignments.

Photo by: Yassin Hameed / Ahmed Zahid

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THE BACKWATERS OF

KERALA 46

AND EXPLORES KERALA, THE LAND OF GREEN MAGIC, AND EXPLAINS WHY A CRUISE ALONG THE FAMOUS BACKWATERS HOLDS SUCH ALLURE.

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KERALA IS A HIDDEN TREASURE AND A JOURNEY DOWN THE BACKWATERS IS THE BEST WAY TO DISCOVER THIS.

erala, the land of ‘green magic’, is a fertile coastal strip of South India, sandwiched between the mountainous Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. Its beautiful beaches, tranquil lagoons, lush hill stations and exotic wildlife lure visitors from all over the world. While the high mountains have sheltered Kerala from internal invasions, it has a long history of contact with the outside world. In Cochin, there is a small population of descendants of Jewish settlers, who fled Palestine 2000 years ago. Islam reached the Malabar Coast as early as the 7th century, concurrent to its origin in the Arabian Peninsula. Regular trade with the Arab world strengthened this link, and today 25% of the population follow Islam. Christianity too has existed in Kerala for as long as it has in Europe. The Phoenicians and Chinese also left their mark, and in Cochin, fishermen to this day use Chinese fishing nets. Today, Kerala has a liberal culture, reminiscent of the harmony that has existed between its communities for centuries. While its west is dominated by expanses of sea, sand and coconut palms, the east is an undulating landscape and in the middle are its famous rivers, lakes and lagoons. Its mythical birth is attributed to a legend in which Parasurama (Vishnu’s 6th incarnate) throws his axe into the sea, ordering its retreat, thus creating the land mass that became Kerala.

The highlands of Kerala are famous for tea, coffee and spice plantations, while its

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fertile midlands have extensive paddy and cash crop cultivation. With its high quality educational and health systems Kerala enjoys a hundred percent literacy rate and has India’s lowest infant mortality and highest life expectancy rates. The state has also pioneered health tourism, and most towns have Ayurvedic spas. Its performing art forms, festivals and historic monuments add to its appeal. Despite its numerous other charms, Kerala’s backwaters remain a primary fixation with tourists and is one of the key reasons the state has emerged as a niche holiday destination. In the summer months, the forty-four rivers that tumble down the slopes of the Western Ghats crisscross the state and turn it into an enchanting canopy of green. The ensuing swamps have been tamed into lakes, lagoons and canals, which are collectively known as the backwaters. Connected to the sea by a series of canals, these backwaters cover an area of over 3,200 sq km (1235 sq miles) and support a densely populated zone. Virtually a waterworld, the people who live here are completely dependant on these water bodies for sustenance. These backwaters are often the only link between remote isolated villages and crowded town centres. In the midst of this landscape, there are a number of towns and cities, which serve as gateways to its numerous lakes and lagoons. In the centre of Kerala, Vembanad Lake along with its adjacent wetlands on the eastern and southern sides form Kuttanad – the rice bowl of Kerala. Five major rain-fed rivers drain into this lake, which

originally covered an area of 350 sq km (135 sq miles). This is one of the largest west coast lagoon systems and links Alleppey to Cochin. The backwaters have a unique ecosystem – freshwater from the rivers meets the seawater from the Arabian Sea. In the monsoon months, many paddy fields are completely waterlogged and are left unused for months at a stretch. Other than agriculture, boat making has been a traditional craft here. Many villages are also devoted to the production of coir, a natural fibre extracted from coconut husk. The commercial production of coir in Kerala dates back to the 19th century and is the state’s largest cottage industry, employing over a million people. In Alleppey’s coir villages, you can see coconut fibre being beaten and spun into yarn for manufacturing handicrafts. Being one of the lowest wetlands in the world has its disadvantages; nearly every structure along the backwaters in towns like Alleppey is constructed to compensate for extreme change in tidal levels. However, the people here are well adapted to their surroundings-the regional floating market is a testament to their semi-marooned existence. With miles of canals instead of roads, a boat is the only way of getting around and every family here owns a canoe. The multireligious influence is clearly visible as you navigate the tranquil water of the lagoons, and some of these audaciously colourful structures loom above the coconut groves. The 1000-year-old Thazhathangady Juma

The picturesque Kottayam town is also famous for its associations with Syrian Christianity and Ayurveda – the traditional health science of India and the oldest branch of medicine in the world. Kottayam has many Ayurvedic resorts where one can spend a rejuvenating holiday.

Masjid, on the banks of River Meenachil in Kottayam (a four-hour cruise from Alleppey) is famed for its architectural finesse and exquisite woodcarvings.It is believed that the followers of Prophet Muhammad constructed this mosque during one of their early voyages to Kerala.

The best way to navigate the canal system is by houseboat, many of which are fully furnished with air-conditioned bedrooms, bathrooms, a kitchen, living area and a balcony. The living room is usually open on at least three sides providing a spectacular view. Alumkadavu, Quilon, Calicut, Kumarakom, Alleppey, Kuttanad, and Cochin are some of the major towns

where you can start your cruise; of these, the first two are the closest to Trivandrum. Decorated elephants, snake boat races, cross-dressing dancers playing gods and demons, and temples illuminated with thousands of oil lamps are just some of the spectacles associated with Kerala’s obsession with pomp. The most celebrated event in Kerala is the ten-day long harvest festival of Onam (August-September). This festival commences with a grand nine-course feast called ‘Onasadya’. The most enchanting feature of Onam is the ‘Vallamkali’ or the snake boat race, held on the river Pampa and its backwaters.

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WHAT TO SEE (ALL DISTANCES FROM TRIVANDRUM): Quilon (80 km): Backwater cruises on Ashtamudi Lake, Cashew and spice plantations, Kollam Pooram festival (April 15th). Alumkadavu (100 km): Backwater cruises, coir villages, traditional boat building workshops. Alleppey (157 km): Backwater cruises, coir villages, Kuttanad village. Cochin (210 km): Jew Town, synagogue, spice markets, antique shops, Fort Kochi, old churches, Chinese fishing nets, backwater cruises, and Kathakali dance performances. Kottayam (216): Spice markets, backwater cruises on Vembanad Lake, boat races, Ayurvedic spas, Kumarakom Bird sanctuary. Calicut (445 km): Calicut beach, backwater cruises, Kappad Beach where Vasco da Gama landed in 1498, Kalarippayattu martial art performances, Beypore – famous for its ancient wooden hulled ship building industry.

FACT SHEET Kerala experiences a humid equatorial climate. The daily mean temperature ranges from 19.8 °C to 36.7 °C. Mean annual temperatures range from 25.0–27.5 °C in the coastal lowlands to 20.0–22.5 °C in the eastern highlands.

The most watched longboat regatta in Kerala is the Nehru Boat Race in Alleppey. It draws the largest number of tourists. This annual event is held on the second Saturday of August, and the winning team receives a replica of a snake boat in silver. To this day, Kerala’s local communities zealously try to preserve their traditions and way of life. The cultural consommé of its various religions and the fabled prowess of its seafaring folk are very much evident in Kerala. While its scenic beauty remains its greatest selling point, the solitary boatman on his canoe navigating the backwaters, is the most emblematic representation of Kerala’s cultural heritage. Kerala is a hidden treasure and a journey down the backwaters is the best way to discover this magical state.

Sunil Vaidyanathan is the author of seven acclaimed and well-reviewed books on photography, architecture and travel. His clients include international publishing houses like New Holland - NHP (London) and Globetrotters (South Africa). Armed with a Masters Degree in English literature and an eye for the unusual, Shayoni Mitra made a transition from a corporate communications specialist to a travel writer in 2007. Passionate about travel, her Nikon has been her constant companion. She finds painting equally liberating, and put in her own words “although a viewfinder may seem restrictive, it has expanded my boundaries, making my vision seamless”.

Photos by: Sunil Vaidyanathan/ Shayoni Mitra

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Tel: 3344289 l Wholesale: 3344177

Home Improvement

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WHAT DO YOU DREAM OF WHEN YOU IMAGINE AN ISLAND RESORT IN THE MALDIVES? SUN, SEA AND SAND, OF COURSE, BUT LONG-TIME VISITOR , SUGGESTS YOU SEEK A LITTLE MORE.

IMAGINE AN ISLAND

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THE IDEAL ISLAND FOR ME IS ONE WHERE I CAN WALK RIGHT AROUND THE BEACH WITH THE SEA BREEZE WORKING ITS WELLNESS WONDER ON MY SKIN, GAZE AT THOSE TINY PREHISTORIC LIZARDS SCAMPERING AROUND, AND JUST MARVEL AT NATURE IN THE RAW.

t could be silence, or solitude, or a renewal of romance, superb underwater diving, an isle dedicated to ecological sustainability or even a sport fishing Eden. When tourists first arrived in the Maldives over 30 years ago, fun was the name of the game. I remember one freelance travel agent who used to lie in wait for tourists as they emerged from the airport, asking tourists just what they wanted from their holiday. Sometimes the answer was simple enough: “Sex.” The agent quickly checked which island had a lot of single guests, and sent the tourists there. Now tourists arrive with their holiday package booked up in advance, often guided by the romantic images posted on the resort’s website and the glowing text about gourmet-standard food. My own ideal island is one that remembers it is an island and does not masquerade as a tropical suburb with concrete paths drenched in so much bougainvillaea you can’t even see the sea. The rooms in some resorts are as swish as city apartments and just happen to have a lagoon instead of a highway in front of them.

The first resort I ever stayed in was so simple; all the rooms were in a barracks with plywood walls and a shared ceiling of local matting. This did have the disadvantage of

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being able to hear all that what was going on in the bedroom next door, but there was a wonderful camaraderie.

in the bathrooms, hidden telephones and an infernal machine that plays music constantly.

Staff were dressed in shorts and T-shirts like the guests and we used to help them catch and barbecue fish for dinner at night, and again for breakfast and lunch. An island holiday then was literally like “a home from home.”

I always feel intimidated by these modern designer bedrooms. Although the receptionist is eager to show me all the gadgets, and how to summon help on my mobile, I just want to be left alone to recover from the journey. That’s how I eventually discover that the wardrobe is not the clothes closet but the entrance to an open air bathroom that seems spacious enough to hose down a whole football team (and probably their wives too). The light switches in resort bedrooms are always a mystery to me. Sometimes they

So that’s probably why the rooms in resorts have become so sophisticated – to match the grandeur of one’s own home. Miniature wine cellars (not just mini bars), an espresso counter, flat screen television

don’t even operate the lights but send a flat screen television zooming up from the floor or open the ceiling to the skies. One night I returned to my room but couldn’t find the switch to turn off the glaring florescent bulb that threatened to keep me awake all night. Eventually I had to throw a shoe at it to turn it off. So my ideal island has to have simple accommodation with a large and jolly comfortable bed. I did find one once, only to discover when I rolled out of wrong side of the bed in the morning, that I had tumbled into the swimming pool that was actually part of the bedroom.

And that makes me wonder whether the ideal island really needs a swimming pool, whether public or en-suite? With divine lagoons surrounding the island for swimming in as nature intended, why resort to a chemically treated tank for a dip? It is said that many guests who visit the Maldives have no intention of snorkelling or scuba diving. But as soon as they see the allure of those azure waters (and the hunks and blonde mermaids on hand as instructors) they change their minds. A friend of mine did.

MALDIVIANS ARE IMMENSELY PROUD OF THEIR RESORTS, AND EFFORTLESSLY MAKE THE VISITOR FEEL GOOD ABOUT BEING THERE TOO.

He was told he would need a buddy to go underwater and there was one gorgeous French lady by herself who was looking for a buddy. He signed up immediately. His beautiful buddy turned out to be the wife of the French Ambassador, but they still had a great time. And that’s the point of the ideal Maldivian island holiday: a great time. I hate queuing for food so I avoid buffet restaurants and have room service breakfast on my veranda by the lagoon, a picnic lunch on the beach, and fine dining at night. My perfect island, after a lifetime of diving into bars and restaurants (purely in the course of research as a travel writer, of course), would have several places to drink and dine. Don’t worry, as some newcomers do, that the Maldives are dry islands. Maldivians themselves don’t drink but everyone else does, including the barmen who spend their idle hours dreaming up cocktails that have you drooling for more.

When tourism began in the Maldives, visitors were worried about what they would get to eat. They even thought they would have to bring their own sandwiches. Of course, fish freshly caught and barbecued on the beach was one of the early attractions but now you can be guaranteed world-class cuisine in even the smallest resort. The staff are not only Maldivians but chefs who have worked in top hotels around the world. It seems almost miraculous (but it’s actually thanks to the ingenuity and foresight of the executive chef) that you could eat, if you so wish, a steak to rival

any you’ve ever had, caviar in a hen’s egg and, of course, champagne for breakfast. The best island chefs will meet guests to discuss their culinary preferences and my perfect island is where that is a matter of course. I have other quibbles about what makes an island perfect. There have to be Maldivians. I don’t like being greeted by a Thai hostess (unless I’m in Thailand, of course) but want to be shown around by a Maldivian. As tourism has matured, more Maldivians are taking up tourism management as a career. Maldivians are immensely proud of their resorts, and effortlessly make the

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visitor feel good about being there too. Maldivians also make good correspondents. Long after you leave your resort you may find you are getting emails from Maldivians you have met – not asking for a visa to visit you, but wanting to know how soon you will come back to the Maldives again.

But isn’t a holiday in the Maldives boring? ask my envious friends who’ve never been there. Yes, it is, if you want it to be. Take a dozen novels and plough through them

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or do jigsaw puzzles. But why not go diving or windsurfing or beachcombing or fishing, or explore neighbouring inhabited islands and get to know Maldivians; or join in games between staff and guests and pick up some Dhivehi (the local language) to understand what’s going on? The ideal island for me is one where I can walk right around the beach with the sea breeze working its wellness wonder on my skin, gaze at those tiny pre-historic lizards scampering around, and just marvel at

nature in the raw. That’s when I realise that, yes, I am in the Maldives -- and nowhere else is as wonderful in the whole wide word. Royston Ellis is a British-born novelist and travel writer based in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives for over 25 years. He is the author of A Hero In Time, a novel based on the life of Mohamed Takurufaan, the 16th century national hero of the Maldives. He writes regularly for in-flight magazines and international publications, and is the author of the Berlitz, Bradt and Insight guidebooks about the Maldives. Photo by: Ahmed Zahid

MAGIQUES, MERVEILLEUSES, MALDIVES.

Plages pour rêver. Croisières de plongée uniques. Lune de miel au paradis. Hôtels exclusifs. Croisières en voilier inoubliables. Wellness par excellence. Bonheur en famille pour grands et petits. Snorkeling à grand spectacle. Saveurs culinaires pour gourmets. Tombez sous le charme des Maldives.

Informations et réservations: tél. +41 21 329 01 00 maledivensrilanka@manta.ch · www.manta-voyages.ch

REFLECTIONS

OF THE MALDIVES PAST

CHARTS THE JOURNEY OF MALDIVES FROM THE EARLY 50’S TO THE PRESENT DAY, HIGHLIGHTING THE RADICAL CHANGES THAT HAS OCCURRED

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PRESENT

he older generation of Maldivians can clearly remember what the country was like in their youth. The days when Maldives didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have electricity or gas, when wood collected from the forests were used for cooking in traditional ovens. A time when the knowledge of foreign language was limited to two or three Maldivians, where radio and TVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were non-existent. Wooden poles and thatch were used to build offices and homes. Where it was the prerogative of a handful of children to own a voshufila (a wooden board used to teach children) and be taught under the guidance of an edhurube (male teacher) or an edhurudhaitha (female teacher). The 1950s heralded change. Maldives opted to become a republic from a sultanate, and the ensuing years brought unprecedented change to Maldives. To get a glimpse of

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the mindset of Maldivians before that, a famous anecdote from the time of Sultan Shamsudeen comes to mind. It is said that when the king told his close aides that a boat that travels in the sky was coming to Maldives, it rendered everyone present speechless. “What kind of boat is it?” asked an aide. When he was told that it’s a big boat that carried people in it and flew via air, another aid asked whether “the boat must be held up by a pole from below?” The King’s explanation that it flew on its own was met with utter bewilderment with one aide present exclaiming, “ Your highness is kidding right? What you describe is impossible.” It is said that the arrival of the airplane was a great source of fear and worry. The first president Mohamed Ameen Didi introduced new things gradually. Games like cricket and tennis awakened people to modern games as well as modern thoughts. Both sexes were able to get education from all corners of the archipelago. This marked the beginning of a rapid progression in development. Cement and coral stone became the material of choice to construct new homes. Roads were defined and perimeters of walls sprung up outside houses. The gradual developments of the airport lead to strengthening of contact with the outside world. In the early 70’s tourism was introduced, modern methods were introduced to the techniques of fishing, the mainstay of the economy. The introduction of education in English medium widened the horizons of students. In a short span Maldives progressed by leaps and bounds.

Photo 1-2: Houses built in the early days and modern day housing apartments. Photo 3- 4: Progress in the development of roads. Photo 5-6: Educational mediums then and now.

Maldivians were able to taste the fruit of all the hard labour in the period that followed, a time when, tourism acted as the catalyst for the development of the country and its inhabitants. The 60 years or so from the time Maldives started its progression to a modern country has changed the country radically. Modern buildings and Maldivian intellectuals are common in the country. Along with the rest of the world Maldivians

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also are consumers of modern technologies, in tune with the latest gadgets in the market. A country that was barely known even to its neighbor Sri Lanka has become so famous today that it’s tipped to become one of the new seven natural wonders of the world.

Kaneeru Abdul Raheem is a well known Maldivian poet and a writer. Translated from Dhivehi into English by Hilath Rasheed Photo by: Yassin Hameed/ Ahmed Zahid

Before Maldivian men wore sarongs, now they wear the latest jeans and shirts. Gone are the days when women wore kandiki (a type of sarong) and hedhuburin (traditional dress), today Maldivian women wear clothes in step with global trends. The method of cooking has undergone a transition, from wooden stoves to kerosene cookers and now gas and electricity. Each house has toilets and showers, some equipped with hot or cold water on demand, a far cry from the days when public pools were used for bathing, graduating to wells in homes. Maldivians can contact anyone anywhere in the world using mobiles; we get accolades in sports and education worldwide. Many people wonder why Maldives has progressed so rapidly. A German sociologist, who visited the Maldives 12 times as a tourist, gave that answer quite succinctly. He said: “It is not possible for a nation to progress without unity and cooperation. Maldivians are fortunate that they all come from the same race, speak the same language and adhere to the same culture. Maldivians have achieved a lot as a people. Most recently, the country saw a change in the system of governance. From a monarchy to a republic and now to a representative democracy, the Maldives has come a long way. The recent decentralization has paved the way for Maldivians in all corners of the archipelago to have a say in governance and progress of their community. Compared to 60 years ago, today’s Maldives is a very different country. The ignorant, impoverished and isolated Maldivians of yesteryear are citizens of today’s modern, interconnected world.

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THE AIRPORT AT GAN CAME ABOUT BECAUSE OF IMPERIALISM, POLITICAL INTRIGUE AND A LOCAL REBELLION THAT FEW VISITORS COULD GUESS AT, AS THEIR AIRCRAFT TAXIS TO THE TERMINAL, WRITES .

an Airport is 60 years old this year, and its construction is still surrounded in controversy, aided by colonial intrigue and local rebellion, and it was even coveted by the Russians in the 1970s as a piece of prime military real estate. Gan is the second largest island in the southernmost atoll of Addu (Seenu). When H C P Bell visited it in 1922, he discovered the remains of six ancient mosques, one of which was built by Sultan Iskandar (1648-1687). This was ignored due to the exigencies of the Second World War when Britain (which was responsible for foreign affairs and the protection of the Maldives) decided to build an airstrip on Gan. It was begun in 1941 by the British Royal Navy for use by the British Fleet Air Arm. Royal Navy engineers landed in August 1941 from HMS Guardian while the Catalina and the Sutherland, both flying boats, operated from a jetty on the northern, sheltered side of Gan. The inhabitants of Gan found themselves swiftly, and reluctantly, re-housed in neighbouring islands, leaving Gan uninhabited except for the occupying British military and approved locals.

Curiously the Japanese remained unaware of the burgeoning airbase’s existence until 1944 when they managed to guide a torpedo though a gap in the anti-torpedo nets in the island’s lagoons.

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In 1946, after the war’s end, the British government abandoned Gan and its runway, by then administered by the British Royal Air Force; but they did not forget about Gan. Their somewhat presumptuous return in 1956, with a proposal to lease the island for 100 years at £2,000 a year, unsettled the government of the Maldives and led to Ibrahim Nasir (later President) becoming Prime Minister of the then Sultanate. Discontent with the Maldives government began to brew among the people of Addu and neighbouring atolls. This centred around full payment for employment provided by the British not reaching them, re-housing and improved education. Although it was not apparent at the time, it was the British presence in Gan then that helped the tourism industry start successfully some 20 years later. That was because the children of those who worked for the British learned both experience of foreigners and a good command of English, useful much later for developing the tourist industry. Since this is the story about the airport, the details of the revolt of the people of some of the southern atolls, and the creation of the temporary “United Suvadiva Islands” with covert British support is not part of this tale, even though there had been talk in Addu of rebelling against the government of Maldives during the Second World War.

INTRIGUE IN

GAN

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CURIOUSLY, ALTHOUGH IT WAS NOT APPARENT AT THE TIME, IT WAS THE BRITISH PRESENCE IN GAN THEN THAT HELPED THE TOURISM INDUSTRY START SUCCESSFULLY SOME 20 YEARS LATER. Under a 1948 agreement, the British were responsible for foreign affairs of the Maldives and although when he became Prime Minister, Nasir wanted construction work in Gan to stop, the British refused to

do so. Succession of some atolls was the outcome and the burning of an atoll office and the Maldives flag took place in January 1959, while the British watched. There was violence when a force led by Nasir retook some of the rebellious islands but it was not until 1963 that the main instigator of the rebellion was exiled, actually by the British, to the Seychelles. The British had probably changed tactics because in 1960 a new agreement, backdated to 1956, was signed between the British government and the Government of the Maldives for the use of Gan for the British military, as a free gift! That was translated into various grants over the years and a reference to this agreement was included with the eventual signing of independence of the Maldives on 15 December 1965. 5

The political details ignore the reality. The British Royal Air Force had built a fine airstrip at Gan which they used as a staging post on the way from and to Britain and the Far East. Accommodation was erected for those in transit as well as those stationed there, fuel tanks were built and there was all the necessary infrastructure (even a golf course) for an active base population of foreigners. The Royal Air Force also built an airstrip on Hulhule Island, which was the start of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Male International Airport. While Gan and its airport brought benefits to the southern islanders and throughout Maldives because of the link it provided with the world, power politics interfered again. The Labour Government then in power in Britain, decided in 1976 unilaterally to close the base, in spite of their agreement to run it until 1986. The

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7 Government of the Maldives demanded compensation, not least for the people who had given up their livelihood as fishermen to work for the British. Negotations, under instructions from then President Nasir and conducted by then Vice President Ali Umar Maniku, were tougher than the British expected and the British eventually had to agree to leave some of their equipment and to fund an aid programme. But Gan became a ghost airport, as those who worked there moved north to help in starting the tourist industry opening up in islands around Male’.

An abandoned airport in a strategic part of the Indian Ocean quickly attracted the attention of the Russians who began negotiations with President Nasir in 1977 to rent Gan for US$1million, supposedly for use by the Soviet fishing fleet. When this was refused, an article in the Asian Wall Street Journal reported that “a Soviet diplomat complained angrily to a western colleague that you could buy the whole country for a million dollars.” But Gan was not for sale. In 1978 a new president, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom came to power and the airport was retained

British resident of Sri Lanka, Royston Ellis (www.roystonellis.com), has been visiting and writing about the Maldives for 30 years. His recent books include The Bradt Travel Guide to Maldives, and The Berlitz Pocket Guide to Maldives. Photo 1 to 6: Early photos of Addu & Gan around 1940’s when Gan was administered by the British Royal Air Force Photo 7: Gan Airport later during 1980’s

Photo 7 by: Yassin Hameed

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for domestic use. A hotel (Gan Holiday Village) was opened in buildings left by the British and this later became Ocean Reef Club. Today it has grown into the flourishing Equator Village. Gan Airport has been modernised with new terminal buildings and is now open for longhaul international flights as well as for domestic services. Gan has become the gateway to the newly developing resorts of the south, heralding a bright new future for the neighbouring islands and atolls.

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EVER WONDERED HOW THE OVER-WATER BUNGALOWS THAT DOT THE PRISTINE LAGOONS OF MALDIVIAN RESORTS CAME INTO EXISTENCE? TELLS US HOW THE IDEA ORIGINATED AND ITS JOURNEY TO RESORTS ALL OVER THE WORLD.

THE BIRTH OF

OVERWATER BUNGALOWS

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Ever bumped into someone suddenly memorised by tourism billboards of Tahiti or the Maldives plastered across the walls of the metro station or bus shelter? It’s usually the sight of spacious villas, perched above tranquil, turquoise waters which capture our attention; that luxurious connection between Mother Nature, man and mini bar that leaves the rat race seemingly so far away. Overwater bungalows have their origins in French Polynesia, a place so tropical, so remote, and so exotic, just saying its name in winter brings out the faint odour of coconut tanning oil. Americans Don “Muk” McCullum, Jay Carlisle and the late Hugh Kelley, known as the “Bali Hai Boys” and inspired by James Michener’s novel South Pacific, first adapted traditional coral stilt homes for their tourist village on the island of Moorea after failing at vanilla farming. However, it wasn’t until 1971, when the Hotel Bora Bora, now an Aman Resort, built their first luxurious over water bungalows, that this unique style of accommodation transfixed the world’s jet set. “We had taken over a small six-bungalow hotel on the island of Raiatea, where there’s no beaches, but beautiful lagoons and marvellous tropical sightseeing and diving,” recalls Carlisle, now in his 70s. “Seeking to call attention to the little Bali Hai Raiatea, we decided to try building three bungalows out on the reef, right in front of the hotel, with docks reaching out to them. The diving was fantastic, but the bungalows were a bit small so we built six more, larger in area, then we went to our Moorea property and built six there. Our friends, the owners of the deluxe Hotel Bora Bora, wanted to know how it was done so we said send your construction boss over and we’ll show you. Now there’re over water bungalows at every hotel in Tahiti French Polynesia.”

“The over water concept had been used by the Polynesians for several generations, building their grass huts on iron wood stilts on the lagoon’s edge,” says Monty Brown, who worked at the Hotel Bora Bora when the bungalows were first constructed and

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is now an area manager for Aman Resorts. “The idea of a tourist sleeping out over the water, with the moon reflecting off the lagoon, private sunbathing, and the multitude of fish that are attracted by the lights, made the experience unforgettable and the boom was on.”

Despite their fan-fare, only the most exotic coral outcrops adopted the over water bungalow, meaning lying above the lapping lagoon never lost its novelty-factor, as quirky hotel additions like transparant bathroom walls and toilet phones quickly did.

Tahiti became synonymous with these luxurious cabins perched above the lagoon and now several resorts offer them. Leaders in French Polynesian over water pampering include the St Regis, which hosted Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban’s honeymoon, and the Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort.

However, the Maldives quickly decided to surf cast its rooms from the shores of its tiny islands. Protected by reefs, with ample marine life and a government open to luxurious, sustainable tourism, the Maldives became another “floating” destination – and today, resorts like the Soneva Gili, epitomise modern day over water living, a far cry from the original Bali Hai shacks built for the intrepid and tropically-inclined.

“Over water bungalows are the ultimate honeymoon splurge,” says St Regis general manager Stephane Delamotte. “Imagine waking up to the surreal colour and clarity of the lagoon filtering through your windows as you await room service breakfast delivered by canoe, or counting the fish swimming under your lounge as you enjoy the sunset with a glass of Champagne. You will remember this experience for the rest of your life.”

In fact the Soneva property took over water bungalows one step further – yes you can stay in one of their 37 spacious villas, each connected to the next by boardwalks but for the ultimate seclusion, try one of the seven Crusoe Residences which are literally houses in the middle of the lagoon,

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accessible only by boat – and yes, the maid and butler are called Mr & Mrs Friday. The resort’s Private Reserve is a lavish multi-room penthouse located away from the rest of the resort and boasts its own spa treatment rooms, twin bathrooms, a plunge pool and Jacuzzi and entertainment spaces across two levels, perfect for celebrities or nudists looking for seclusion - there’s no need for a Do Not Disturb sign when you can see visitors rowing out long before they reach you. Another Maldivian resort to offer overwater bungalows is the Angsana Velavaru, which opened last year in Dhaalu Atoll. The resort offers three new categories of overwater bungalow, the best of which are the 11 Premier “In Ocean” Villa, which comes with a 27sqm private plunge pool, encircled by a pool deck, while on a lower level there’s a Thai-style sala, perfect for private spa treatments and access to the sea pool.

At the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, each of the 31 Deluxe Lagoon Villas measure 94sqm and offers private sun decks, spacious day beds, plunge pools and bath tubs overlooking the expansive Indian Ocean, while a Mandarin Oriental is set to open in 2011 on the island of Maavelavaru in northern Maldives, boasting 114 individual villas, 20 of which will be perched above the lagoons gently lapping waters. But with the explosive popularity of overwater bungalows, their imaginative luxury is not just limited to the Maldives or Tahiti. The unique experience of being surrounded by water and waking to the lapping of waves against your room’s foundations can be found in secluded spots around the globe. In the South Pacific, at Fiji’s Likuliku Lagoon Resort, luxurious “bures” (the Fijian word for hut) feature traditional Fijian architecture, while on Panama’s Caribbean Coast, the Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge, features over water cabins constructed using locally sourced materials and offer view across the Bocas de Toro archipelago. In Bermuda, the chic tentlike, soft-sided Paradise Pier “cabanas” of recently opened 9 Beaches Resort, feature plexi-glass panels in the timber floors so you can see nature swim by. The Lagen Island Resort in El Nido, northwest of Palawan in the Philippines, features unique cottages, built above the water of a protected lagoon, made from antique wood and furnished with pieces saved from old Filipino houses, while the junior suites at the futuristic Palafitte Hotel on the edge of Lake Neuchatel, offers guests direct access to the waters of this pristine Swiss mountain lake and stunning views – even if it’s not of a tropical reef.

And what’s next? Bruce Jones, an American submarine entrepreneur, is apparently still constructing Poseidon Mystery Island off an unnamed Fijian island, although it was supposed to be completed last year. When completed, it will offer on-beach,

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over water and unique, under-water suites, while a Dubai company has drawn up plans for a 1.1 million sq ft complex of suites, shopping and ballroom space, complete with its own missile defences, off Dubai. But back in Tahiti, where it all began, the Aman Hotel Bora Bora is closed for an extensive re-construction, and when it opens it will have fewer bungalows, in order to retain that Tahitian magic that Carlisle, recalls each evening at his story telling with guests at his rambling Club Bali Hai resort.

Nick Walton is an experienced travel journalist who has run travel and lifestyle magazines in Asia, New Zealand and Australia for over ten years, including a two-year stint as Travel Editor for the South China Morning Post. He loves to travel throughout Asia and beyond, but also loves coming back to his adopted home of Hong Kong. Photos by: Nick Walton

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HANIFARU BAY IS A WHALE SHARK CLEANING SPOT & A MANTA RAY CONGREGATION POINT. IT IS A TOURISM HOT SPOT THAT ATTRACTS DOZENS OF VISITORS EACH YEAR. TALKS TO MARINE BIOLOGIST GUY STEVENS OF THE EFFORTS TO CONSERVE & PROTECT THE BAY

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Hanifaru Bay, Baa Atoll, in the Maldives. I’m lying on the surface of the Indian Ocean, snooping on a fantastical marine ballet, and fulfilling a long-held ambition into the bargain. What I’m witnessing is a manta ray feeding frenzy and, as far as they are concerned, I’m just part of the furniture – another piece of surface flotsam to be avoided in their quest to hoover up cavernous mouthfuls of plankton.

Every way I turn there are mantas: they are swirling and gliding gracefully beneath or beside me and I have to keep my elbows as tight to the surface as I can to avoid knocking them. I’m so awestruck that I barely remember to breathe. And now I’m alone in the water with them: there are 20 or 30 of them, and I never want this moment to end.

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Hanifaru Bay is approximately five degrees north of the equator, northwest of the capital Male’. It is a tourism hotspot because here it is possible at certain times of year to be in the water with anything up to 200 manta rays that come to feed on the cyclical plankton blooms. On occasions, they are joined by huge whale sharks, but today we just had mantas. I couldn’t count them because to the untrained eye it is hard to tell one from the other (except for the particularly pale one that looks especially ghostly). Guy Stevens, Marine Biologist at the nearby Four Seasons Resort at Landaa Giraavaru, practically knows them all by name. Observing, identifying, and monitoring the manta rays behaviour is his job and his passion.

Stevens began observing this extraordinary manta feeding behaviour shortly after he moved to the Maldives seven years ago to take up the post of Marine Biologist on the Four Seasons Explorer cruise vessel. Local fishermen and communities had known about it for years and occasionally exploited the opportunity to hunt whale sharks. Stevens realised that the Hanifaru Bay gatherings represented a rare opportunity to make a detailed study of manta rays and in 2005 launched the Maldivian Manta Ray Project (MMRP) to try and learn more about these little known gentle giants. His work is jointly funded by the Save our Seas Foundation and Four Seasons. “The first step towards official protection and effective management of this site was to create some international publicity about the manta ray gatherings at Hanifaru Bay,” said Stevens. An expose in National Geographic with dramatic photographs by Thomas Peschak, Chief Photographer with the Save our Seas Foundation, put the bay centre stage as the best place in the world to see manta rays. “As we hoped, this helped raise local government awareness of the site’s economic and environmental value, and helped avert plans to develop the bay as a harbour for the new airport being developed on nearby Dharavandhoo Island. However, Hanifaru’s new found fame brought with it the added pressures of increasing tourism,” said Stevens.

In June 2009, Maldives President Mohamed Nasheed was persuaded to designate Hanifaru Bay a Marine Protected Area. This effectively outlawed fishing and anchoring on the reef, and placed limits on the number of tourists and tourist boats that can be in the bay at any given time. However, as word continued to spread about this extraordinary opportunity to get up close and personal with these huge fish (wingspans of up to 12 feet are not unusual), Hanifaru Bay began to rocket up the list of tourist attractions in the region and, at peak times, large numbers of boats, snorkelers and divers swamped the bay to witness the manta gatherings. During the 2010 season the situation became worse than ever, and Stevens is concerned the mantas will be driven away unless further steps are taken to enforce the current

HANIFARU BAY BEGAN TO ROCKET UP THE LIST OF TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN THE REGION AND, AT PEAK TIMES, LARGE NUMBERS OF BOATS, SNORKELERS AND DIVERS SWAMPED THE BAY TO WITNESS THE MANTA GATHERINGS. regulations and reinforce them with some additional new ones. Thus far, compliance has been largely voluntary as there is no means of policing the limits or of punishing offenders. “We need a system of realistic fines that will deter people who break the regulations and we need a site warden who can enforce them,” said Stevens. “But how do you pay for that? We need some way to generate income, such as a marine park entrance fee that would also act as a permit for someone to visit the bay.”

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The fee and any revenue from fines could not only finance the law enforcement aspect of the bay, but should also be used to generate improvements for the local community. “It is absolutely essential that the local community buys into the project and for that to happen, they have to see some financial benefit in it for themselves. They have to believe that protecting these mantas is in their own best interest in the long term,” Stevens said.

There is already a sense of ownership on the part of the resorts in the Baa Atoll because the Hanifaru Bay experience has had a significant positive impact on their business. Stevens estimates that the direct

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tourism revenue generated by Hanifaru Bay alone in the 2010 manta season (May to December) was approximately US$1 million. “That’s renewable every year,” Stevens stressed. “If we fish these creatures out or scare them away, the source of revenue dries up too. The resorts realise that and so increasingly do the local community. But we need to reinforce the education process.” Stevens would like to see local people, especially school children, brought to the bay to witness for themselves the remarkable interaction with the rays and this again could be funded by revenue from the Marine Park. The closest community

to the bay is the island of Dharavandhoo where a runway has already been built and a new domestic airport is scheduled to open within the next couple of years. This will inevitably bring an influx of new tourists from around the Maldives, including day trippers wanting to see the mantas in Hanifaru Bay, so the urgency for some level of management is increasing. However, it also represents an opportunity for putting in place some more controlled access to the bay. Stevens believes an independent company should be set up to handle all visits to Hanifaru Bay, with a central collection point on Dharavandhoo. All resorts and liveaboards would deliver manta tourists to this central point where they would be issued with a permit in return

They have the largest brain to body size ratio of any fish and are naturally inquisitive and social animals. There is low natural mortality among mantas because they have few natural predators, although occasional attacks by Bull and Tiger sharks and even Orcas (killer whales) have been recorded.

for a fee. Similarly, tourists arriving at the airport would be filtered through the same collection point. Operating within strict Marine Park regulations and with licenced and trained boat operators, this company would then ferry a restricted number of boats with a limited number of snorkelers out to the bay for a carefully managed and monitored manta experience.

But mantas are increasingly under threat and the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) has included them on its Red List of Threatened Species as Near Threatened (they do not qualify for Critically Endangered, Endangered or Vulnerable now status, but are close to qualifying for or are likely to qualify for a threatened category in the near future).

Not only would this protect the mantas and whale sharks, but it should also make for a more rewarding experience for tourists. At present, Stevens says there are many days when snorkelers and divers outnumber the mantas, making for an unsatisfactory experience all round. He also believes that diving should be banned from the bay when the mantas and whale sharks are there. “They tend to feed on the surface, so there is no need to dive. If there are lots of people in the water, then at least the mantas can dive if they feel threatened,” said Stevens. “But if there are people on the surface and people below them, they may feel trapped. We need to give the animals a refuge.”

Their distribution around the globe is widespread, but population sizes are small and remarkably little is known about mantas – a situation that Stevens is hoping to address before it is too late. They are known to live for at least 20 years, but are believed to live upwards of 50 years. However, their reproductive output is low. Females only reach maturity after approximately 20 years and give birth to just a single pup every four or five years. Gestation is believed to 12 months and the pup already has a wingspan of approximately 1.5 metres when it is born.

Stevens maintains The Maldives is currently one of the best places in the world to snorkel with mantas: the population density here appears to be one of the highest anywhere throughout their range. And Hanifaru Bay is “the only place we know of that attracts them on a regular basis in such large numbers,” he says.

Human beings are now the manta’s main predator and their populations are being decimated across the globe. Not only are they often snared as unintentional by-catch in fishing nets, but large scale commercial manta fisheries are cropping up around the globe to supply a new demand for dried manta branchial gill filaments, which are ground into powder and sold into the Asian medicine market. This is having a devastating impact on manta populations in areas where this is occurring. In The Maldives, however, the manta population is protected and swimming with them is one of the Maldives’ most awesome visitor experiences. Stevens is now broadening his focus beyond Hanifaru Bay and is intent on creating a global manta charity – The Manta Trust – to research, monitor and protect manta rays around the world. He is already involved in research projects in Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Mexico, and the new Chagos Marine Reserve. For the Hanifaru Bay mantas, however, Stevens is determined to secure a future. “These mantas are bringing a lot of revenue to the country: more revenue than fishing for mantas – regulated or otherwise – could ever bring in. We need to think big and we need to take action now. Otherwise I’m afraid we will start seeing a big decline in the number of manta rays visiting Hanifaru Bay in as little as five years from now.”

Born in Indonesia, Anne Paylor grew up in South India and has travelled extensively throughout her life and career, specialising in aviation and travel journalism while working in such diverse locations as Bahrain, Hong Kong, Cyprus and Saipan. She now lives in the UK, and works as a freelance journalist. Anne Paylor holds a private pilot’s licence, is an avid photographer, and is very interested in marine conservation. Photo by: Shaahina Ali / Moosa Hassan

VARA 02

wkirwt iruhugwa emcnea cSwmukcaed cSwncnuTcsirUT cnegevwmWh wrUs IfWgws egWlerek ,uriaWvcSwmwk iawgcaeaOnek inwkeaWminwkea iawgcsrWTOvckeb ,Inwd IkwaWlerek .everwzcnwm Wd iawfWvcaud ukwairevuLwf caeaUdWj idwa .evekeaWnWzwK Wviawfiveruk urcais cnwkWluawa emcnea cnwlcSok Wbirujwt cTETcs wdwf caerutwd cniaeret egcsrWTOvckeb egunwtim IDob .evemulcSok

Wrctim InOywx / cnwtwnwycdiawv clinus :OTof .evedIxwr utwlcaih IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia

cnubWsih Wa cmwrcDcnevircT caeaWtcsWr Whiruh) cnwtcnwt enWlwb (cnegiSef iaWTwnUxek ,caerutwd csrWTOvckeb iawguDnwgcnef IDumwTcxwa :(urwTImOlik 80) cnOliauk .udIa cmwrUpcmwlok wncnoa iawg 15 clIrcpea ,cawtuDnwd udWvwh iawgunef ,cawtcjeliv WSwv unOr ,urutwd csrWTOvckeb :(urwTImOlik 100) uvwDwkcmulwa .cawtegurwh wncnwb urwhwfudnwLua IfWgws Wvcaud cDWnwTcauk ,cawtujeliv WSwv unOr ,urutwd csrWTOvckeb :(urwTImOlik 157)

Iaepelea .cjeliv

Wkcaiv udWvwh ,iLcawf IdUhwy ,urwhws ELuairid cnIdUhwy :(urwTImOlik 210) cniCok ,cawtiLcawf WrOswn iLukcsum ,ICok cTOf ,cawtwrWhif Wkcaiv iheCcaea IKIrWt ,cawtuTEkurWm .cnuSen Ilwkwtwk idwa ,urutwd csrWTOvckeb ,cawtWdcswm egWniawC iawguDnwgcnef uDWnwbcmev ,cawtuTEkurWm Wkcaiv udWvwh :(urwTImOlik 216) cmwywTok uDWb cmokwrwmuk ,cawtWpcs EdWvurwf ckidevcruywa ,cawtcsEr uTOb ,urutwd csrWTOvckeb .udcawhwrws Wviawfiveruk ctwyWmih inUd wtwvun IrwauCckcnes iawg 1498 ,urutwd csrWTOvckeb ,cSoduDnog cTwkilek :(rwTImOlik 445) cTwkilek idwa ,cnwtWLwt ITWrwk uTcawywpcairwlwk ,cSoduDnog uDwpcawk ivencnegiawDwvWbiawf WmWg wDokcswv .urOpEb urUhcxwm egunWmwz Iruk wncnoa ctwaWnis wncnwb uTOb cnireb iDukwl

:utWmUluawm .evekemusUm ctet idwa wncnoa iawgutibudem egEyinud Inwncnoa iawgcaetog umcaWa iawgWlerek 36.7 iaWa cswaiscles IrcgiD 19.8 iawgcaetog cjercvea IneLua cnimunUh egulWvud egurwhwa iawgukwtubWsih cSoduDnog irit uDnwgcswf .eveawgudemed Wa cswaiscles IrcgiD Wa cswaiscles IrcgiD 27.5 iaWa cswaiscles IrcgiD 25.0 IneLua cnimunUh cjercvea IneLua cnimunUh cjercvea egurwhwa iawgukwtudcawhwrws csuacnib utWrwf Itwmuria .eveaudemed .eveawgudemed cswaiscles IrcgiD 22.5 iaWa cswaiscles IrcgiD 20.0

cnwxiDcnokWaea iawgEa .evekeTOb Wviawfiveruk ,iaWawnWKWf ,iaWkwtirwTokWdin Wviawfiveruk idwa iaWkwdcawhwrws ELuairid ,iaWkwaegidwb wnig irwTok ELuairid .eveaenemih caeaInwkcleb wncnwviawv cSwaWmid cnit InWncnuh cSwrwhwf wncnef csev caerwzcnwm wmwhiruf cSwrwv ,cSwtog ,cTwkilek ,cnOliauk ,uvwDwkcmulwa .eveSwtog Ikwa cniCok idwa uDWnwTcauk ,Iaepelea ,cmokwrwmuk cSwmuSef caerutwd wtwvun "caezUrck " cnutogim cSwawmwtwruf cniaeret egEa .evekwturwhws uLwgnwr cmwrcDcnevircT Ikwrwhws 2 unuvenwgcnwn 2 iriawk emcnea Wa cmwrupwtcnwnwvurit wtwvun .everwhws wfurwh ,iaWkwtctea Wviawfiveruk iretctwnIz egukwtcnunWtiawx iaWkwtegnWlwk ,iaWhEr cTOb eguscnij caenwa cnuscnij caea ,iawgiawfis idwa ,iaWncniretcnuSen ELua cnegiawLwa cnudeh WviawfivelWlcaid cnitcawb oyet csWhcawtea cniaWlerek cSwmurukuLWf cnwkirevuruKwf IkwkwtiLcawf wscaWK iruhcnuLug Wtwkcawswm Wruk csevudwbwa .evekwtcawtcnwk ,IkwdIa Everuk wgwhWf cSwawdwg emcnea iawgWlerek eguhwvud 10 wncnwa iawgurwbcmeTcpes iaWTcswgOa uDob eguhOk 9 ,IneSef udIa im .evedIa cmWnoa im .evencniawmwh Wmuruk ufWscnia cSwkwtwfWj cmWnoa .evea "Wycdwswnoa" Ikwmwn Wyik cSwtwfWj "ilwkcmwlwv" Ikwmwk caea IvudWj emcnea egudIa wfurwh iawgcsrWTOvckeb iaWrOk Wpcmwp Iaea .evea .evemuhej csEr uTOb IkwhEr uTOb ulUbugwm emcnea iawgudem egcnumcaWa Iaim .eveacsEr uTOb Urchen WvcaWb iawgIaepelea irevuguawx emcnea cnuTcsirUT wnig emcnea caea ukwrwhwa .evehEr wncnwa cnwlwb ukeaWmwk emcnok Inwncnoa utWycaimcswr im EvcaEb urwhwf wncnwa cSwawnwved iawgcaehwmea egcaehwm uTcswgOa WdcSwawnwvcaea cnuhEr idwa .eveauhwvud urihinoh egcaeTOb wfurwh WvWfiawdwh cnihir Inebil cSwmIT .evekeacleDom cnirevuluhwa egWlerek csev cSwawmwh Wdwaim iLWfwTcawv egumuLuairid iaWtwfWgws egcnuhImea .eveaeruk ctwkcawswm iLEniDnek cSwmuruk ctwyWmih cnegevcaea cnukwnId cawtea Enemih iawgWlerek igWvIh egcTETcs caea iaWtwfWgws Wviawfcsiawa EdcSok ulIscmwt cTETcs ea Ikwncnirevcswm Ikwkwturwzcnwm itIr egWlerek .evetwycaisuKwx

VARA 02

cSwmwkiretctwkcawswm iretctwa egIDukwl idwa im iawgutog Everuk ulUbwg .eveketWrWmia ulIswmWl egWlUswr itirIk WdIs InwviawfcSokWnib ctikcsim cniruk emcnea uriaea cSwaWlerek caekwtcnIbWhws .eveawgcaetwrWyiz caea ivcaeruk egWyirIs IkwnuawT cmwywTok itIr urwzcnwm WaWvurwf ckidevcruywa idwa iaWncniaWrOswn IkwaWvurwf ckidevcruywa .evekeaIdWbWa WviawfiLug Ihcais ckifiTcniaws idwa IfWgws egWyiDcnia cseviawgEyinud iLum Iaim idwa .evekeaWvurwf cnugnor egumwkirevcsEb wtwvun cnisiDem cSwhUr .evepctog Ihcais caea iLukcsum emcnea iawgcmwywTok ,caeaITcauC wdwf Edwvuneg caemwkumWrwa eruk cnukwtuTOsir ckidevcruywa wnig cSwrwv iruh .eveaenWdivelcSokwdEh iawgcaeTOsir

emcnea cniaeret egumWzin egukwturOkumib im Inwncnwa cneveruk urutwfurutwd cniawhEswf cniaim .evencnia "iDoa-eg" wtwvun "cTObcsuawh" cxinurwf cSwawmwhiruf IkwTObcsuawh emcnok

VARA 02

"cTekWm cniTOlcf" Idwhcawrws egWlerek cnutogea ,IkwkwtcTEkurWm WviawfWdwh iawgItwm egunef wtwvun cSwmuLua caemuLuairid Wviawfevwtirwf iawgItwmcnef .evekenWxin wdwgurwv egumwk WviawfinEh cnuhIm iheCcaea Wvcaud wtwvun evWgnib Wgnih cSwncnuhIm Inwncnoa iawgWlerek iawgulwdwb egukwtugwm enEvcaud iawgunef ,cnumwk cawturOkumib ugid egcaelEm cawtea cSwnwtcaenwa cnunwtcaea IkwkwtudnwLua Wvcaud evcnehim idwa .evetog inwkeawmwh wncnoa cneved caeaOnek iawgukclim csevegcaeaWliaWa emcnok iawguDnwgcnef iritiawmuDwm egukwtuliv .eveaevoa utWfwt InWv wgwhWf uriawncnwa cnumwruk urutwd .evekwtcnWxin egumwk WviawfcSokurwswa egukwtcnId cawtWnib caeawb wdwfim cnitwm egukwtcaur idwa .eveaeruh cnWvuLWf cSokcnufwnWm idwa cSokitIr Eved uhwf cSwkwrutwd eguriaiDwg 4 WaIaepelea WviawgIrEscawa egcliCWnIm WvcSwmwk caerOk egcmwywTok 1000 Ikwtikcsim urukuh Idwgcnwtwhczwt .evekeaWnib InId IKIrWt iLukcsum Wviawfevurwhwa iaWmurukWmurwf iaWmurukctWrWmia Ikwtikcsim im

,iawgukwtIdWbWa uSufcSwr WSwv unOr egIaepelea eyiv unOr cSwmuruk cnunEb cSwtwkcawswm iretctwa .eveaenWncnef urwzcnwm iawSwv Wv cSwycaOf idwa iawgumwk cnibcswC irit emcnea egEyinud cSwaWlerek csev caekwtcnuhej cSwtwhwf ,cnumuv csrWTOvckeb cnutogea .eveaeviawfevitwmiruk iawgukwtcnuawT wdwf Iaepelea iawgudcawhwrws urwvwyid ,Inwviawfiveruk cnehcaetWrWmia Whiruh cSwkwturwswa iteDob Wruk uriacnwa cnumwvulwdwb egcnuhImea Inwv cnuhIm cswnehea .evencnegiawncsiv .eveawfevcnwTcawb ,inEh cSwluawhWm WvcnegiawSwv

uDnwgunol ,iawlWrUh cSwDnwk IDWrOk egWnEa egubWsihea ,cnumunid urumwa cSwmuhej cSwtwhwf .eveawmiawyid cnegikih uDnwgcnib

egumib ubiawjwa im .evegwm inwkeawmwh EdiawvuLug im idwa .eveaevcawtudcawhwrws cawtea iawgudem caekwtea egWlerek ,IkwkwtITis iaWkwtcnuawT wdwf csev ugwm EdiawvuLug iaWkwtuliv iaWkwtuDnwgcnef .eveaem iaWDnwgcnef cdWnwbcmev Inwv iawgudem egWlerek urutua iaWria egcDWnwTcauk ,cnegevcnia Waea egWlerek Iaim .evekwtcnibcswC wncnoa cnutWrwf egudcawhwrws "ihWl ctwb" wtwvun "clOb csiawr" cniruk .evedcawhwrws WviawfevurUhcxwm iawgutog egulEm wkwa 135 wtwvun urwTImOlik wkwa 350 caea uDob emcnea ctoa caedcawhwrws uDob iaWacniCok iaWa Iaepelea idwa .evemWzin egukwtuliv IneLua iawgcsrWTOvckeb .eveaemEd cseviawvuLug wtwvun caemWzin egcaekwtcnurid egcaetWz utWfwt egurOk Ikwnwtim Ikwbwbws .evekea "cmwTcsisOkia" uDnwgunol eguDnwk ibwrwa ,iaWnef iaWzWt egukwt .evebWsih Wvulwdcawb iawgukwtuDnwd UDnwh wnig iawgumusUm wrWscaiv cnunEb egunwtea idwa .eveaevuDobcnef cSokcaea cSwkwkwtcswm cawtea evoa iverukun cnehea iawgunef cnurutia egumwkirevuDnwd .eveaedcnegimed IfWgws egunwtim Ikwmunwb urwhwfudnwLuaWvcaud uSufcSwr wnig idwa .evetwkcawswm iretctwa csev unOr Ikwkwtcjeliv wtwvun cawtudcawhwrws cnegiawLwt ibnob egISWk IkwnOr .evekekwtIdWbWa WSwv .evekerwbiawf wtwvun caenwn Itwrudug Eren InwviawfiSef cnuSevunOr egWlerek cnutog egIrWfwyiv iawgcTETcs iLum Iaim idwa .eveawgunurwg wnwv 19 cnegebit iawgEg iawgcaeaWriaWd WLuf emcnea csev .evekeairWfwyiv wncnwa cnumwruk cnukwtWliaWa cSwnwailim 1 csev cnutwaWnis im inwkeawmwh .eveaeviawfibil WfIzwv cSwncnuhIm wnig eruv

idwa ,iaWaIfok ,iaWyws Ikwkwtcnibcsua egWlerek .evekwtcnibuDnwd urUhcxwm cSwkwtctwvWb egudWvwh uLwgnwr uDnwgcnib egEretudem egWlerek idwa iaWluDnwh iawgcaeaWriaWd WLuf Ikwkwtudcawhwrws Ebil Wsiawf iawgEret egcaetwdcaum wDuk idwa InWmwz .evekedcawhwrws Wdcawh cnWvoguDnwd umiaWg caemWzin Ihcais idwa iaWkwmWzin ImIluawt egIdWbWa Ikwa Wlerek cnubwbws egumuviawfiveruk wncnwd cnwyikcnwyil cTcneswp 100 cnutwbcsin IkwaWlerek csev cniaWyiDcnia iLum idwa .evekeawb Wvurwm cnudwm emcnea cniduk iawgurumua utcaut emcnea urumua cjercvea egcnuhIm idwa .eveTETcs Inwv cniaWlerek .eveaem csev cTETcs ugid .eveawfcSok cfwrWawt csev cmwzirUT Ihcais iaWkwtudcawhwrws wnig ELuairid cnuhIm evcnehim cawtWpcs Ed Wvurwf "ckidevcruywa" iawgukwtcnuawT iaWncnunWncnwf irevurwnuh egWlerek idwa .eveaeruh egcTETcs ea ,IkwkwtWnib IKIrWt idwa iaWkwtudIa .evemwkcnwk EdcSok urutia cnwkirevuguawx egukwtcawtcnwk IbuzWj Whiruh cnehea egWlerek wtwvun "ctWrwfun " egWlerek ,csev cnurutia cnwkirevuguawx egcnirevurutwf Ikwa "csrWTOvckeb" .evedcawhwrws wncnwgiawmwd cSwDob emcnea egudcawhwrws caea ulUbugwm emcnea egcmwzirUT egumwkim csev Inwviawfcsog cnegev Wlerek iawgutog ,iawgutwkcawswm egumusUm uaIbwr .evencnubwbws egWlerek Wdcnegimed cniawdwburwf cscTwg ugnwLuh cSwnwtim cawtea egcTETcs iLum ,urOk 40 caeaUdWj InWvIh cnitwm cnubwbws egumuviawfirutef Edefua cnumwkim .evencnehcaeDnwgirwtws ihef wdwf ,iaWkwtuDnwgcnef Inwviawfevulwdwb cawtcnibcswC "csrWTOvckeb" .eveSwkwturOkumib idwa iaWkwtuliv cniaWaIrwz egcaekwturOkumib .eveaevcnehim Ineyik "csrWTOvckeb" im WviawfiLug WDnwk WgcnisWm wkwa 3200 iawgunim uDob egudcawhwrws idwa .eveaeruh ulEm wkwa 1235 wtwvun urwTImOlik cSwrwv ,cnukwtctwlIswv Itwrudug egudcawhwrwsim .eveaediawTcawhwgwn caeaIdWbWa Wviawfihejcaot cSwDob Wviawfiruf cnunef ,wmwnWnub cSwkwtog cnehea ,IneLuairid cnuhIm egWlerek wdwf caeaeyinud Itwrudug egukwtuDnwgcnef im csev cniLum IkwacsrWTOvckeb im idwa .evencnukwtctwlIswv ,iaWkwtudcawhwrws iteDob IdWbWa ,cSwrwhwf wnig cawtudcawhwrws uSufcSwr irehwkea udwm cnuhIm

WviawfevurUhcxwm cnutog egcaenwt Wruk UdWj ihef uDnwgcnib wncnoa iawgunuked egWyiDcnia ,IkwaWlerek ibwrwa .evekedcawhwrws cSoduDnog uLwgnwr wncnoa udemed Wawdwburwf cscTwg ugnwLuh iaWDnwk ,iaWkwtcSoduDnog umiawgctih egnWtea .evekemib idwa ,iaWkwtcnib csua ihef ,iaWkwtuliv umWrwa Whiruh egEyinud ,IkwCcaekwtErid Itwrudug IvudWj cSwmibea cnwkirevuguawx egcnuhIm cnukwdcawhwrws .evekeTETcs Edcseneg WjWrWhwm egIruk cnubwbws egukwtwdwburwf csua Wgnihun caemulitwmiruk IliKWd cnukwtcTETcs ,csevwmwn ctoa iawfevctwmWlws Wlerek cSwtog caekwtcnuLug egcaehIrWt ugid cawtea Waeyinud urEb urwhwa 2000 egIm .eveaevwmWh cnwkWv WaWlerek IdUhwy wyid cnegiawlif cSokUd unItcswlwf cniruk csev iawgcniCok cawtuLokirwd egcnirevcnwzwv .evebcaitwbea wnwv 7 Iawa cnIdcmWlcsia cSwSoduDnog rWbwlwm iawgWluaiscninep ibwrwa Iaea .evencniruk Whunurwg csev Wrwvcswvud wyid cnegirutef cnId ea iawgcaetog ImiaWd Waeyinud ibwrwa .eveSokWmid ,evwdwgurwv cnuLugim cnumuvcaEb cnuLug egIrWfwyiv IkwaIdWbWa cTcneswp 25 egWlerek udwaim WrOswn iawgcpwrUy wmwh idwa .evencnumilcsum cSokWmid csev Wrwvcswvud iawa cnegirutef cnId cnIdea urwvcswvudea wmwh csev iawgWlerek .eveawyidcnegirutef cniawrwkunIs wtwvun WniawC idwa iaWncnunwxinIf caekwturwswa egcnuhImiawbea cSwaWlerek Inwv csev cnirevcswm iawgcniCok cnutogea .eveawfcSokUd egWniawC Inwncnwa cnumwruk cnunEb csevidwa WviawfivelWvuLuh cSwrwv IkwaWlerek udwaim .eveLwdcswm egcnirevcnwzwv egnWtea .eveketwfWgws cnwvinim whclus ctoaimed cnedcnwv caenurwg cawtea iawgudem caenWxin EdcSokuzcmwr cawtcnuLug cswlwswm .evencniawdwf Inwvcnegivelukea cSwDob iawb ugnwLuh egWlerek ,uriaWv cSwmwk cnukwtcaur iaWycaev iaWDnwk .evekemib wncnoa cniawdwf caeaInWbuLWr Ikwrutua cnwn egWlerek Inwviawgudem egugunwtea idwa iaWkwtuDnwgcnef wtwvun ckEl iaWkwturOk urUhcxwm Wyik iawgukwtwkwhWv ckOlcf egWlerek .evekwtuliv idwa Idcnih ,Inudefua iawgutog egcaemib Wlerek iawgutog wnwv 6 cSwaeyinud Uncxiv WvcSwmwk ukwlwk egunId ,iawgutog egWmWruswrwp iawgumuvcnwfua cSwrwhwf

VARA 02

egWlerek

"csrWTOvckeb" ugnwLuh unuked eg WyiDcnia IdWbWa urUhcxwm egEyinud wnigcSwrwv Ikwdcawhwrws Wlerek wncnoa iawguLok .evekea "WnWzwK urcais" EhejcnwlcSok wgwhWfcnutogctog Wkwtcnurid IkwkwturOk egnWtea cSokwscaWKcnikwv umiawgctihwdwf WvunihUfWlwb WlifuLwf cnukwtctWkwrwh Wrctim InOywx iaWa cnwtWnwyidiawv clinus cSwmwkcaenwt .eveaeyil

VARA 02

“Nothing was too much trouble for them, and they constantly strove to exceed our expectations.”

VARA 02

www.baros.com

.eveawfivelWvuLuh InwvurWhim cnwtim csevcSwkwturutwfurutwd Ikwmwg cSwkwtuTOsir wncnwa cnumwrukIgcawrwt iawgunuked egumwkim idwa .evekegwm EdiawvuLug unuvelWvuLuh udwaim iaWSwrcSwr ireTcSwvwa cSwkwgwmiruk Wa ,WlWjua cnubwbws .eveaenWdcnegiLehwLuh cawtuLotwa

isErignia wncnwa cnumeLuairid iawgWkcnwl Ircs csilea cnwTcsiaor WvcSwmwk caetiycawr ctwrWyiz cSwaejcaWr (www.roystonellis.com ) cnumwyil cnutogEhebWaejcaWr idwa ,Wtwncnwa cnumwruk Wviawfeyil cnuhwf WnEa .eveaejcaev urwhwa 30 Wtwncnwa uT cDiawg clevercT cTcDercb wd " iawgEret egukwtctof uT cDiawg cTekop czcTilrWb wd " idwa "cscviDclOm .eveaenemih "cscviDclOm utwlcaih IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia .evedIxwr csIawr cSwmuscaejwmwh ctWvWGwb cvidWvus :1-2 OTof iawguLufurutwd ivcaeruk urisWn egumwg caeTObWdcnitwm eg cfea Ea rWa :3 OTof iawguTOpWaea urwvcswvud ibit cnIsErignia iawgumwg :4-5 OTof iawgukwturwhwa eg 1980 -cTOprwaea cnwg :6 OTof udImwh cnIsWy :rwfWrcgOTof 6 OTof

cTIrcTcsclOv cnwaixEa ,cnumudehuLoked cniaejcaWr Wmwkim IjirWK egWyixwr" Inwviawfenub iawgcaeTOPir WviawgclwnWj iawgutog irukWvukwx cnegcsiawaiLur ukwTemolcpiD egWriaWd cSwrwloD cnwailim 1 csevinwkea (ejcaWrihevid) umuawgeaiLum .eveSwmwk "wDuk WhWlenwg .evenUn caeawgutog egcaeCcaeaWkcaiv Itoa cnwg csevwmwn ,cmUycawg cludcbwA cnUmuawm ,ukwsIawrWa iawg1978 IvcaEb uTOpWaea egumwg idwa .evetwgiawDwv cSwmwkirev egiawv EverukcnunEb cSwkwtcnunEb egEretea egcnihevid wyid iawfcSokUd cnisErignia .eveawgutog egcaerwdnwb iawgumwn eg"cjelivEDiloh cnEg" cnegcSokcnunEb cawtctwrWmia Iawyid cnegev cnuhwf cnwtim .eveairuk umiaWg caelwToh Inwviawfev cnwtim udwaim idwa .eveSwa "cbwlck cfIrcnwxOa" "cjeliv rwTEaukIa" Wviawfiveruk Igcawrwt cSwDob cSwrwv .eveSwa urWhim cTOpWaeacnwg cSokWnib cawtctWrWmia clwnimWTWa egEretea .eveawfiveruk Igcawrwt cSwtog InWmwz Inwv egWtcsWrurud ImWvugwaclwniawb cnurutia egukwtcnunEb

cmIhWrcbia WviawfcnegiawDwvevulWvwh WmwkcsIawr uriaea csIawr ubiawn uriaea ,cnuSwd egudWxuria egurisWn Wrwvcxwm ivegcnih ukinwm urwmua Ilwa ivencnuh iawgumwk whEswf WhunuverukIh cniruk cSwncnisErignia cawtcnuruk cnuhwf emcnea cSwncnIsErignia idwa .eveaivun cSwkwCcaea cSwrWkurws ihevid cawtunWmWs caeawb iruh iawgumuawg Inuhej cSwmunid Wsiawf cSwkwmWrcgorcp egIhea idwa ,iawlcSokUd Iawyid cnegevcnwg cnunwtWhea csevwmwn .eveSWvcswbcaea iawgunwtea Ikwbwbws .eveSwkwTOpWaea Wviawfiveruk cnufwk IriawkelWm ,cSokurutwd cSwrutua cnuhIm irukctwkcawswm cSwmunidiawSwf IrcTcswDcnia cmwzirUT iawgukwtubWsih .evencnumuaid cSwmuvIhea umcnihum cnutog Irwkcswa eguDnwk WyiDcnia caeTOpWaea WviawfivelcSokUd cnWv WnWrIv iawgcaedcawhwrws .eveawa cnwg cSwmwkulWmws egWyixwr cSwhwvwa idWd cnumwk cniaWyixwr ukeaWaurisWn csIawr iawg 1977 cnutogea 1 cnwg IvcSwkwmuLehwSuh egWyixwr .eveaiTcSef cawtWrwvcxwm Ikcaed cSwmwk caeaWnwhwb .evemufih cSwycauk cSwrwloD cnwailim .eveSwmurukcnunEb cnukwtudnwLua egumwkirevcswm egWyixwr

VARA 02

100

VARA 02

cfclog iawgEret egEa) urwCckrwTcsWrcfcnia iaWkwtctwmudiK egiawv isErignia .eveSwtog Enemih (csevcaeDnwd ELuk .eveawfIdiawLwa caeaEvcnwr csev iawgEluLuh Inwvcniawfis eguTOpWaea clwnwxEnrwTcnia ElWm Ekedim udwaim Iaea .evemuSef wliawvuLug WaeyinudiLum cnuTOpWaea iruh iawgunwtea iaWmwg iLum idwa iaWncnutiycawr egunuked ,cnubwbws egumunid csevwmwn .eveairukWdiawf cnegEa csev cSwaejcaWrihevid egEa csevWkcaenwa uDnwgiLuk IsWyis cSwmudOh urWbiaWrWa cnebit iawgumwg cSwawmwh Wa1986 .eveaidcaev cSwaeret WrWkurws isErignia uriaea ,csevwmwn Iviawfevcswbcaea itencaemugcnea cSwaejcaWr iawg1976 cnITWp rwbEl ivulWvwh uzwkurwm Irwkcswa iruh iawgumwg Imcnin cSwawlcaimwa ,iawlcSokUd cnwkirevcswm cSokwscaWK .eveSwmurukudcnwb InwdcmWa cnegcSokctwkcawswm iawgutWg egcnIsErignia .eveawgugcawh egcnihevid wyid cSwmudOh

iawgcaemuvcswbcaea unuverukiaos udemed WrWkurws ihevid egcaeaWyidwh Elih cSwmunEb egIrwkcswa isErignia ,Inwv !eveawfId cnwg iawgutog cnedcnwv caerwhwa cawtea IvcSwkwaWjItwn egumuvcswbcaeaea eg1965 idwa .evemunidev IheaElih cnIsErignia cSwaejcaWr cSwaejcaWr ,unuveruk uhwvud wnwv 15 eguhwmrwbcmesiD ,csev iawgumuvcswbcaea egumunid cnwkcnwvinim wmwhiruf .eveaeviawfId WlWvwh Wmuvcswbcaea ivencnedim cniruk

egEjcaWr ihevid cnuSwd egcaemuvcswbcaea unuvev iawg1941 idwa .eveaigen cnIsErignia Wmcniz egukwtcawtcnwk IjirWK cSwairuk iawgumwg ,cnegiawDwv cSwmwkurIzwvuDob urisWn cSwmulWTcauh cawtctwkcawswm egumurukctWrWmia wyidcneg Wmwkea cnIsErignia csevwmwn ctwgiawDwvevcnunEb WnEa wlcaimwa cawtuLotwa caeawb IvcSwkwaWjItwn .eveaidehuLoked uLotwa iawg 1959 idwa .evemuruk cnWluaia caemwkirev cnIsErignia csevIlWdcnwa wdid ihevid iawlWdcnwa caehIfoa .eveSokinebit cnwlwb

.eveawfWlWvurof ctwgIgwh Inwv cnukwtulIsufwt IsWyis WvcnegISwkea iawgumuawg Inwvcniawfis egiawv isErignia iaWdcawhwrws Itwmuriaurud Iaea .eveawfWdwh caeaEvcnwr .eveSwmuaid ,iaWSwmuawaejcaWr cnutWliv isErignia idwa Ikeaukea iaWncnufwzcawvum ImiaWd ibit iawgumuawg cawtcmWzitcnia egumubit csev cSwncnirevurutwf Itugwv cawtIgnWt WrukWkcawroyet .eveaeviawfIdiawscawjwmwh Irwkcswa idwa .eveairukctWrWmia cawtckcnET wtwvun Whiruh wnESwkea cSwkwaIdWbWa IsEdib ELua iawgcaezwkurwm

cnukwturWb ivcaunof urisWn cawtcSwr caeawb irukctwvWAwb csevwmwn wyid cneginef cnwkirevWyinwa uriairukwhwtwf cnulwa cnumuawg ,WlWhwf Ugum iawm iruh iawgutwhwf egutwvWGwbea egutwvWGwb iawgutwgIgwh .eveawg 1963 InuvelcSokurEb WnEa .evencnIsErignia uduK InidcSokurEb cnumuawg udnob csclexIs wncnoa iawguDnwk WyiDcnia "InuvelWvurwa" egcnuhImea Inwv cnunwtWhea cnIsErignia .eveSwmuawg WrIzwj ,eyilcSwmwk iawg1956 cnutogea .eveawfcSokulwdwb cawtuLukua iaWrWkurws isErignia iawg1960 iawgutwgIgwh csevwmwn

101

VARA 02

isErignia cnegiLugWmumin wmWrugnwhuDob wnwved iawg1946 uTObWdcnitwm ideh iawgunwtea iawlcSokUd cnwg Inwv cnurWkurws uriaeaEvcnwrea .eveawfWlcSokUd cnWvukWlwh csev Evcnwr .evencniawfis egiawv isErignia Iawa cnumwTcawhwlwb cnitwm egumwg cniawfis egiawv isErignia evcnehea WtogunuverukIh cnumwkcnehea .eveawlun caeawtcawn cnWdnwh isErignia cSwmunidcSokUd cnwg iawg1956 cSwtogcaea ukwrwhwa ILehwSuh cnuhImea .eveaiLeHwSuh cniawfis egiawv 100 cnugwm egcDcnuawp gcnilrWTcs isErignia 2,000 cnumuLehwSuhim csevwmwn .eveSwmunid cSwycauk cnwg cSwrwhwa cnegevcnwkea ,cseneg cnwkcswvwnwtun cSwrWkurws ihevid urisWn cmihWrcbia (ivcaerukcnwkcsIawr cnuhwf) Iawyid .eveSwkwbwbws Ivirevudem cSwmutwgiawDwv cSwmwkurIzwvuDob .evekemwkcswr Itoa iawgEjcaWr uriaea ireTcSwvwa iaWaUDcawa Inwvuriaea udemWrWkurws ihevid cnedefua cnuhejunwmwhctih iawgudem egcnutiycawr egukwtuLotwa WfiawfId cnisErignia ,IvcSwkwlcswa egumwkim .eveawfiawSwf ihevid ,wrWsum wmwhiruf EdcSwncnuhImea cnukwtWfIzwv cSwmunidcSokurOf cSwawmwh Wncnutiycawrea cnurWkurws iawguSwrcSwr cnehea cSokurEb cnuSwr ,iaWmuLea cswruh Igcawrwt umIluawt idwa ,iaWmuvuruk irevcnwzwv cnumwkwdwg .eveawgiawlwscawm ELug Wmuruk urWhim ,cswnuverukun csWsuhia cnwkea iawgunWmwzea ctwaWnis cmwzirUT cnuhwf urwhwa20 egEa ,uriaWncsiv Ikwbwbws caea ivihwfugwm cSwmuvIgcawrwt iawgunwtea Ikwbwbws .evencnumubit iawgumwg cnIsErignia iawgutwgIgwh egcnihevid irukWdwa WfIzwv iawguSwd egcnIsErignia cSokcswd cnwrukctWlwmWaum iaWncnIsEdib Inwvcnirwd cSwLwgnwr cSwrwv Inwv cnidukea idwa .eveawfcSokWbirujwt .eveawfevwtirwf cSwhwbea cSokcswd cswb isErignia Igcawrwt IrcTcswDcnia cmwzirUT cnuhwf Iawyid cnegevcnwkim .eveSwmwkcnwk iretcnunEb cSwrwv cSwmuruk

102

caeawb egunuked ,cnumwk caeawkwhWv Eheb WTOpWaea IkwawkwhWvim egcnIsErignia ,iaWtwvWGwb irukcnutiycawr egukwtuLotwa cvidWvus cDwTiawnuy" idcaefua ukeaWdIaWt urcais .evenUncaeawb egiawkwhWvim ,IkwaWsidWh "cscDcneliawa csev urwvcswvud egiawmWrugnwh uDob wnwved csevwmwn egcnutiycawr egUDcawa cSwmuruk ctwvWGwb WrWkurws ihevid .evenuveked wkwhWv iawgudem

VARA 02

.eveaenEruf urwhwa 60 urwhwaim cSwTOpWaea egumwg Everuk csuhwb Inwv csevidwa ctog unuverukWnib cnwtea InwviawfevWnib cnwtea idwa .eveawgutog egcaeawlwscawm ihevid idwaiaWwmwkirevurcais egumurutefcnwh egugnwLuh eg1970 idwa .evencnegiLug WkwawmWrugnwh IlihWd iruhugwa emcnea cnutog Irwkcswa Ikwnwtea iawgukwturwhwa .evenuked csevcniaWyixwr cSwmwk cnib caea iawg (s)UDcawa wncnoa iawgunuked emcnea egEjcaWr Ikwmwg .cCea iawg 1922 .eveSwr uDobemcnea cSwawnwved wncnoa cnunwtea ,uria ivcaerukctwrWyiz cSwnwtea cleb Ip.Is cawtiawb WviawfevWnWrIv egcaetikcsim 6 egunWmwzcnwa Inwv 1648 IvcaerukWnib ctikcsim caea cnunwtea .eveawfinef urwdcnwkcsia ivcauLua iawgEyinud cSwa1687 cnia cnutogiruh utwlWh eguriaea udemWkwtWnWrIvim .evenWfegcswr ,Ikwbwbws .eveawfivelunWLwa Inwv cSwncnIsErignia iaWkwtcawtcnwk IjirWK egEjcaWr uriaea IkwncnisErignia umuawg ctoa cnegiawgwn Wmcniz egumuruk ctwyWmih ejcaWr idwa cnegiLug WawmWrugnwh uDob wnwved uriaea ,ukeaWmuvcSwmwk cTOpWaea iawgumwg .evencnegiLug Wmumcnin cnwLwa caeTOpWaea cniawfis eguDnwk isErignia iawg1942 InuSef cnwdwh Iaea .evencnuSwd egumuleb egIvEn clwyOr cxiTircb wtwvun .eveSwkwmunEb egcmrWa rwaea cTIlcf cxiTircb Iawa .eveawg 1941 IbEf cSwmwg cnurEnijcnia egIvEnclwyOr cSwDnwk idwa .evencnurwvwnwm cnwaiDWg csea.cmea.cCea cDcnElrwdws iaWaWnIlwTek WvcSwmwk uTObed Wscawj urutua egumwg Wviawfibil cnwkctwyWmih IrukcTErwpoa .evencnukwmwlWf egudcawhwrws egcnuhImea Inunef cSwkwailcauk cSwncnirevcnwzwv egumwg irevcnwzwv iawguSwrcSwr ireTcSwvwa iawgumuhurun Iawyidcnegevcnwg cnegiSef cnubWsihea idwa .evenwtivuruk isErignia idwa iaWncniawfis isErignia inwkeawmwh iaWSwtog Erea cSwkwywb egcnihevid Edwdcauh cniawfis .eveSwkwSwr wncnoa cSwtog EveLuairid cnumwruk Igcawrwt caezwkurwm egiawv iawgumwg IkwmwkWvcnWriawh csevcnedcnehej Wa1944 cSwncniawfis unWpwj cnwkiawa cnWpwj urwhwaea uhwfcSwaea csevwmwn .evemwk ctoaignEn ODipuroT cnurEb eguliv egumwg Inwv cnukwacniremcbws ,cnukwLwvOl WviawfiLea iawguTen WviawfWmwd cSwLoked Wa .eveawfiawlWvunof cSwaWmid Wmwg caeaODipuroT

udemWmwg cnwkirevuguawx

Inubil caeTOpWaea cSwmwg egumurutefcnwh egugnwLuh Iaea idwa .evencnubwbws iaWmwkirevurcais IsWyis wDuk cSwncnirevurutwf idwa Wvuniawfibil InUn caetWmUluawm egcaeawmWrugnwh IliKWd cniaWnEa ,cSwmwkcnubwbws WaclwnimWT ,uTObWdcnitwm ,utugwvwyid cnumuvwmwh cnumwyil csilea cnwTcsiaor .eveawyidcneg

103

VARA 02

104

VARA 02

IkwLotwauDcawa ctoacSwtog Everukefis cnehcaetih .eveLotwa ctoa iawgunuked emcaea egEjcaWr egiawv egcnIsWrignia WgiawmWrugnwhuDob wnwved uLotwaim cnutogItugwv iawgutog egcaezwkurwm cSwrutia cnwg uhwfcSwaea .eveairukcnunEb cnihevid 800 ibitiawguSwrea iawkwTcSwmurukIgcawrwt .evenuverukulwdwb (cSwa UdEf) cSwSwr ctoacnegihej .evencnegIdiawLwa egEg cSwncnuhImea cnIsErignia cnuhIm iawgEgcaeawb iLeaurEa csevurWhim idwa egukwtcnureairuk WviawfibilurEa cSwLotwa .eveaeLuairid ugwm ugid WviawfIdiawdwh cnIsErignia iawgEret ,UdEf - Udwrwm ,UdEf iaWmwg Iaea .eveaenemih .evegwm WviawfIdiawvuLug Udwtih idwa Udwrwm uDnwgunol Inwviawgudemed egcaeSwred emcnok cSwtogWrukurutwd cSwtWrwfcaenwa cnutWrwfcaeacniDwa egurwTImOlik 14 .eveawfiawLwa caemwlWf (EvczOk) .evegwmugid emcnea ctoaiawgEjcaWr Ikwgwmim

iawgEjcaWr .evekerwfWrcgOTof / iretcnuyil IkwDrWkip cswmOt egumugenOTof urwhwfcaea ukwrwhwa csevurWhim .evekehIm iruh ukwDnwgcswvud cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia .eveaeduawa ejcaWr WnEa iawgutwkcawswm .evemIhwrcaudubwa urInwk IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt udImwh cnisWy / udihWz udwmchwa /cscviDclOm csuawhcCIb :rwfWrcgOTof

iawgumurukWsWrid cawtcnwkea " cnwxiDepcsckea iawgumulebuDnwgubWsihea .eveairukwdEh cswvud 99 im .eveairuk wdEh uriaiDwg 13 ukwhwvudemcnok Wscairuhef 220 cnunwtea cSwncnurwbcmem egumIT cnugwmitEd ukwlWvudcSokujerwvea .eveaevcSwmwk ivWmid IvutibWs cniaWsWridea cnegiLugWmunefununefim ImunEb .evemwkELua ihiruhef iawgubWsihea cnedcnwncnef iawgumudOh ukeaiaWmwk iretctek .evemurukctwkcawswm iawgumwk dg idwa ag iverukiawbcSwkwywbed cnutogIferugOj IkwLotwaudwvuh Wviawfileb 65 ugid urwTImOlik 82 .evekeLotwacaea ctoa cseviawgEyinudiLum IkwLotwaim WLufurwTImOlik .eveLotwauDob emcaea Wviawfidefua cniawkwrumiaWlwg caeDOkirItwm emcaea iawgunimunUhinif IkwaUdcawk eguSwrea iawg 1991 iaem 19 .eveSwt Wviawfiveruk uDOkir cnimunUh iawgumwkIrcgiD 36.8 iawguhIfoacTem .eveaiawfiveruk

egumuaikuDWf cSwrWkurws egurEa iawgukwtWlcawjwm ulwj im .evelej ivcaerukwdEh urwhwa 3 iawguSuk egunWfilwa ignih iawg 1998 Inuveruk udcnwb .evencnegiawdnwa ulwj iawgcaeaWsidWh WvunUh csevuhwvudurwhwaiLum Ikwa ejcaWrihevid 1978 csevwmwnIviawfiveleb iawgumwkcaenwt 17.2 uhwvudwnwv 11 eguhwmclircpEa urwhwa wnwv iawgumwkunuhej cSwSwd cnimunUhinif cSwaIrugiD egEa .eveaeviawfcSok uDOkir cnuhIfoacTem Imcswr csevcSwawmwh iaWdwaim idwa cnuhwfurwhwa csIrit emcaea iawgEjcaWr cnimunUhinif Itoa uDOkir ea .eveawgumwkuDOkir wyidcSwSwd

wncnuh cnimWLufegcaerwTImOlik ugidurwTImOlik 5 .eveSwr uDob emcaea egEjcaWr IkwLotwa (N) ukwlumcawvuf ikwvcnegiLeawDnwk Ikwkwlumcawvuf cnutogIfwrugOj .evekeSwr ikwv ctoacnikwv .evenUncaeLotwa csclrWC Ireh WyiretcnudOh EhebWmib urUhcxwm 7 WdcnumwvukWlwh iruhiawguSwrea ,cleb csivurup eg 1960 udemWDnwgcswf (wtcaivwh) csuaurwTIm EhebWmib iscaejwmwh urWkurwsWkcnwlIrcs uLokIruk wlwhwk caebcaug Inwviawfenub uhwfcSwkwtcnudOh .eveawgumwkcaea WpUTcs egcnuTcsiDub Ikwnwtea

clwnwxEnrwTcnia ElWm urWhim) cTOprwaea wmwtwruf EluLuh .eveTrOprwaea EluLuh Iaea (cTrOprwaea iawg 1960 IkwSwrea Inuaik ETrOprwaea iawgumwkcaeSwr ELuacnuhIm uria ideh cTrOprwaea wmwtwruf cnwtea .eveaItWv iawgumwk eluLuh Wv WlifuDnwgwd iawgunimugid egcaerwTImOlik Ideh Evcnwr wtwvun ugwm WscawjuTOb .evencnegiawLwa Inwd ItEscaejun cSwrwhwfuTObiteDob cnumwkuruk wDuk cnirevurutwf cnunwtea .eveSwa Wkcnwl ivIgcawrwtcSokiaulwh .eveaInwncnwaejcaWr iawgcaeTOb udwaim cnuhwf egurwhwacSwkwhWscnwf cnwtea cSwkwTrOprwaea clwnwxEnrwTcniaElWm iawgunimWLufurwTIm 45 ugid urwTImOlik 3 Itoaea ikeaegEyinud Iaea .eveawgcaemuLwt "cTclwfcsea" iteDob iaWSwkwtuTObcTejwlcaimwa wncnwa cnukwtuLokcnwk .eveawgumunid ctwmudiK cSwkwt cTcfWrckrwaea

cnuSwdctwa egcnisErignia ejcaWrihevid .eveawg 1965 Iruk unWluaia cnwkea evcnwvinim 6 eg cscDcnEliawa cvIdWvus cDeTiawnuy Iaea idwa ,cawlumcawvuf ,Udwvuh .evencnuhwf urwhwa cfIfwa QudubwA cnutiycawr eg uLotwa (s)UDcawa iaWrWkurws ihevid iawguSwd egumwkirev eg IdId urWkurwsea .eveaIruk unWluaia cnwkcnwvinim evikwv csIawr egurEa .eveSwkwtwdcaum egurwhwa 3 Itoaimed iawvunofcniawfis cnwncnwgiawlutwa cfIfwA uriBWn cnegiawlif ufIfwA .eveaIlehul cnulum urWkurwsea ,urWkurws cvIdWvus .eveSwa csclexIs Iawyid .eveaIawyidcnegimin eviawgumwkcaeaWhufws eguKIrWt iawgILwfunuked egugnor EvelWmwd cnudem egEyinud

egEyinud iawgutog WviawfiverukulUbwg Iaea ihiruhef .evetwvWbeguhwm wyib emcaea ELuaiawgukwtuDnwk eguDnwk cnegiawnIf iaWncnegiawLwa itwmunUm WvcnunEbcneked emcaea cnuhImWlwbcawturwzcnwm cnurwbcmesiD csevukwrwhwa emcnok .everwtcawv (da) unuked uLotwairwa cSwawmwhiaWhwm uCrWm iaWlwg iawgiawlwSwfuDnwk unuked ugnwLuh eg egukwtcnurid eguDnwk wdwfcswm iaWawkwrum cnutog egWnWk uDnwgunol egubWsiheaiLum cnuaehiv cnutog egcaeaWjItwn .eveawvuruk idnwscaum itekwtea ihiruhef Wrukwrujih cSwnwtcaenwacnunwtcaea .eveaev iawgumwk Iaea IkwgwmWrukurutwd iawkwTcSwmuaek ckrWxclEv cscviDclOm " cS 2008 cn 2006

105

VARA 02

iawgWmidiaWLok egISufwmcnih iawg unukedegUdcsulut .eveaevoa cnwtWgwnuLWr EvelcSokwgwhWfemcaea iawgEjcaWr WdumwkcSwrwv Ikwnwtim cSwmuLeaWLWr "utwaWnwk" UdWmWg wncnoa iawgutWgidWd Wnwtea .eveaevcSwkwnwt cSwnwtea ukeaWmuv cSwmwkcaeSwr iruh ulwj iawgIruk Ikwa iawgulwdwb eg WrugumuLWr Inwvcseviawfivedcnwn .evencnumwn eg Wrugumulwj

uDWrip .even cnegiawfihcnunEb egutwsuruf iD cDWrip WvcscnEruf cfoa cjeaov wd" ctofunuyil wd cscviDclOm wd czIDcnia cTcsIa wd cT clwvWl unurua udnwLuaim iawg "clIzwrcb cDcnea cswkUlom uDWrip iawgEjcaWrihevid cSwLoked iaWtih iaWmurua cSokulIsufwt wkwhWv egukwtcswvud irukutwaev .eveaeviawfId Ikwmwkirevurutwf Wmwkirevcswm eguhwmuDnwk Wnib cawCcawm egcaemwkedea udWsitugia egEjcaWrihevid wncnoa iawguLotwa (L) uLopcaidWf .evemwked Wviawfev IrwTukefcswm uDobemcaea iruhiawgEjcaWr iawgurwvilef Wrukctwkcawswm cnufwzcawaum 900 .eveaeruh egIlencnwk iaWhwmuDnwk ukwlWvud Ikwa IrwTukefim Wruk udcnwbiawguLwd cSokctwkcawswm egunwTcaekwtea .evekea WnWKurWk ukclim egurWkurws

106

wncnoa iawgiawb urutua eg (k) uLotwaelWm .eveSwr Wrukcnwkirev eguLotwaim Ikwa Udcsulut IrwTukef WlOkWkok inwkeawmwh iruhiawgEjcaWrihevid Wviawgulwyih egukwtcaurihevid .eveawguSwrim Inwncnuh cniaub urUhcxwm cSwaeyinud iawgIrwTukefim WgwncnegcSok cTEnilosiD cnuDnwk InwrukurWycawt egISufwmcnih iawg unukedegUdcsulut .evencnunef EvelcSokwgwhWfemcaea iawgEjcaWr iawgWmidiaWLok cSwmuLeaWLWr "utwaWnwk" .eveaevoa cnwtWgwnuLWr Wnwtea .eveaevcSwkwnwt WdumwkcSwrwv Ikwnwtim iruh ulwj iawgIruk Ikwa UdWmWg wncnoa iawgutWgidWd Inwvcseviawfivedcnwn cSwnwtea ukeaWmuv cSwmwkcaeSwr .evencnumwn eg Wrugumulwj iawgulwdwb eg WrugumuLWr iaWkwtcsUn udIxwn csIawr Ikwlwj UdWmWg im

VARA 02

iaWkwtcSwr eguLotwa (r) urutua uluDwmcsoLWm udemed iaWLotwa (b) unuked uluDwmcsoLWm Ikwlenek Ibcserom .eveDnwk inwh Inwviawg udnwLua egWnEa Ibcserom cTwbor im .eveaIaea csiawa ejcaWr urwhwa wnwv 1834 iawgcserWnwb iawguLokim iaWLokea egEjcaWr uhwvudWhcaerwhwaed idwa iaWkwtcSwr iaWkwturwf wnug wnig Wvcaud uTWCea .evekerwDcnWmok iheruk caeTWC egukwtulenek egEa.eveawg 1839 Inuren cnegiawhwruk cSokwmwhiruf csevurWhim idwa cnuhwfurwhwa wnig eruvcSwa 170 emcaea egukwtcSwr iaWkwturwf egEjcaWr IkwTWCea .eveaeveLugcneg iawgumwk uTWC caea urwbWrwb eguscnWruf iawg 1602 iawluj 2 iD cDWrip WvcscnEruf Wviawgumwkcaemcnwyin egEjcaWr csiawa iawgcnibOk uawn egWnEa clWvWl (b) eguLotwaUdiaog Iaea .evenurua cSwkwrwf caeCcawfuDnwk uhudcaenwa .eveSwkwrwf Wviawgurutua whElis iaWa iDwb iDnwk cnegcSokurWycawt ednwb egWnEa iaWDWrip cnegiawfih csevurWyitwh wdwf .eveaibEf cSwSwr ctoa iawgIriawk cnireviawb InwviawfWyik cSwSwrea iawgukwtcnuail egWnEa uDWrip eguSwrea .eveaUdwLuf Iaea urWhim .eveaWvudwlop iawtihEmwk cSwrwv cSwncnuhImea wmwtwruf cnuhIm cSwncnemuDWrip cnuhwfegEa ukwmwkea .eveailWLwa ilwbilwb iaWmwkunUhiawh InuhejcnWlitwmiruk ctwkcawswm iruk OtEvevctwmWlws .eveaiaWmuhej ea iawgEret eguhwvud Whcaehwmed evunubWyimWk egEa .eveaIawyidevurwm cnirevuLwfwnig iawacnudnwLua InuvevctwmWlws cSwDWrip cnuhwfcswvudurwhwacswf cnidWlwmwhcnILWgcnwb cSwSwrWrukcnwkirev egEjcaWr

csua emcaea egWjcaWr InevelWnug Udirwf wncnoa eruvcSwa wlwSwf eguDnwk .eveawgumwkcSwr Itwrudug IkwSwrim Wviawfibilcaenimcsua egurwTIm 2.5 Itwmwdwburwf iawgutwbcsin egukwtcSwrwnig egEjcaWr .evekeSwr WviawfevWnib cSwCcawm egurukwawnWt Ikwhwbihevid (S ) i a wburutua eguLotwauluDwmcnudwlim.evekehwb egcaetWrWmia eg umItiDnwk wncnoa iawguLotwa caemuail egurwhwa wnwv 1588 iawgutwfurod cnukwtcSwr egEjcaWrihevid Ikwmuail .eveTcauhcnwncnef emcaea Wviawfiveruk wgwhWf cSwmwkiruh cnwncnef .evemuail egurukwawnWt Ivcswvud cSwaejcaWrihevid iawg 2004 urwbcmesiD 26 cSwawrwkWvWj .evenuhej cnWlitwmiruk WkwlwkcawrunuDob egImWnUs unudefua iawgcaemulehcnib iawa caekwtcnulcaeg cSwSwrcaekwtea egEjcaWr cnubwbws uDobemcaea iawgImWnus im .eveawyidcnegibil iawg (r) urutua uluDwmcsoLWm Inubilcaemulcaeg cSwrea cawtuLWr egImWnus .eveSwa UduLodnwk ctoa 3 cSok uDnufuDnuf cSwteg cSokitwfWncnus cniLum egEyinud urwhwa iawa cnegidiv .eveailWrwm cnuhIm cnwailim 42 unubil iawgutog egIhea cnukwtumuawg ea wyidevukWlwhurodeg iawgImWnus cnurwloD .evenugcnih caeaUrcxwm WvcnegISwkea cSwkwtWliaWa iawg urwfWvud WviawgumwkcaeSwruLwf egIruk cnutogim umWzin egWmwdurwn iaWlUkcsia 3 WLwa eg 600 cSwtogim csiawacSwkwhwf Iaim .evenuverukumiaWg wmwtwruf unuvedcSok udWbWa iawgcaeSwr ukwywb .evemuverukudWbWa

iawgumwn eguhwvud Imuawg cawtcnWdnwh InWvwluhwf .eveaedcneg cnumwrukwgwhWf emukwrwhwa emcnok csuawhcCIb WviawgumwkcaelwToh egIrwtcswf iawgurutua emcaea egEjcaWr Ikwa cscviDclOm .evekeTOsir Wgcnih cnupUrug WyirOTcsea cfroDclwv IkwTOsirim wncnoaiawg (ah) uLopcaidcnwvwhia ivuLuh caeaIreleg cTrWa urwhwf wmwtwruf iawgEjcaWr egcnunWncnwfihevid IkwaIrelegea udwaim .eveTOsir Incnwf wdwfea Idiawvukcawd cnwkwnWdwLuk .evekenwt Ediawgcnih csevcawtcmWrcgorcp Wviawfidefua cSokiritcSwrwv IkwkwtcSwrihevid udwmidWd IruhiawfWlevcsua .evekekwtcSwr iawguLutwa (dh) unuked Itwmcnudwlit .eveSwrcSwr

iawgEret eguvcawj iawgcaehwvuditIr uLwgnwrcnusUm Wycaijcaibil cnwliawlwb cSwaejcaWrihevid eruh egurwTImOlikwkwa csWh 90 InWncnef ejcaWrea uLwgnwr emcaea ctoa iawguDnwkWyiDcnia iawgunimuDob egiawlukUn .eveawgEret egukwtcSwr itIremcaea WviawfivelWvwf cneh caekwtikit iawgiawlUd eguDnwk WviawfiverukwgwhWf cnukwkwtcaurugid IkwSwr 190 Wviawfibil caekwtitwmiritwa umiawgctih emWhea Wviawfilcaeg csogcniawlukUn cnimcnuf .evekekwtcSwr caekwtirwt wncnef cnubWsihikea cniaeret eguDnwk iawgukwtcSwrim Wviawfiheb cSwkwLotwa 25 .eveawlwhwk iawfivelukea cSwfcnefileved iaWdUm iaWkwturwf cnubwbws egumuvogwdwburwf cnWfilwa Inwv Wviawfideh idefua iawgubWsihim eguDnwk WyiDcnia .eveSwkwtog wdwfWvwhEd cnwkcaekwtiawb egEyinud iLum IkwkwtuLotwa egEjcaWrihevid cnwliawlwb EvelcSokwgwhWf cnEretudem cseviawguTWC iawguhwb isErignia .evekekwtuLotwa itIrWhea cnuhwbihevid Ikwzufwlwm cloTea WrukcnunEb inwkeawmwh Wviawfivedcneg cSwhwbisErignia .evehwb cSwrwv IkwkwtwkwhWv egukwtuLotwa iaWkwtcSwrihevid .evekekwt wkwhWvwnig ivinwvuruk cnWriawh WvctihWhwa iawgunWmwz Irukemcaea IkwkwtwkwhWvcaeawb wdwfim ELug iaWncnimwyiniven unuLua cSokurutwfurutwd InwviawfcSokurutwd cSwaejcaWr cnuhImea .evekwt wkwhWv csevcaea egukwtirigurwf iaWLwfuDnwm egEjcaWr Wmwkirevurib Wlwkcawrun Whitcnia itencaetWmUluawm .evencnegcSokitwmiruk wnWruf iaWkwtiSwh egcnuhImea cnutog Itwrudug Ikwkwt wkwhWv iawbcaenwa Iaea .evekwtwkwhWv ELugWkwtcawtcnwkiruhiawgnWtea .evekwtwkwhWvcaeawb wdwfcawtwkwhWv ivinwncnwa )Itwmcnudwlit WviawgumwkuLotwa urutua emcaea urUhcxwm iawgudemegcnihevid IneverukwgwhWf (ah ivcnwfua unWfurukwtuDob udwmcawhum unWvwluhwf .eveawgumwk uLotwawncnoa iawguLotwaea umItua cSwr egWnEa iaWnWfurukwtea urwhwawnwv 1573 cSwaelWm WviawgumwkcSwrirev ,uLokcnireviawbudwm ejcaWr cnuzIguCOp iawgIhea egWlwmwh Wlcaireg cnid cSokinwviawfev urwhwawrwnwf WtEbit cnegiawfih iveruk cnwvinim ejcaWr cniawbik egcnuhImea unWfurukwtea uhwfwScaea .eveawyid cnegev cnWmwa iawvcawrukcnwkcswr iawgumwn eg udwmcawhum IzWG cnegimed cSwaWliaWa egunWfurukwtea cnwkcswrea iaWrwvctih egcnunWfurukwtea udwaim .eveawyid

107

VARA 02

108

VARA 02

ufWlih WywdWa Enemih iawgukwtuLotwa egEjcaWr cnumuyilim egcDWkip cswmOt cawtcawtcnwk .eveaediawvulifcnuLoa

ejcaWrihevid

caekwtuLotwa utWfwt

109

VARA 02

Ibitimcnihevid cnemerwhwa uriaiawa 2011 udwaim wnigcSwrwv EvelcSokwgwhWf iawgutwbcsin egEyinud iawgumwkcaemuawg Wviawfevwmwhiruf caekwtcawtcnwk egumwkirev uhwvudcSwkwhia cnuhwfemcaea .eveawfinug EverukulUbwg emcaea udwaim csevcSwmWzin cnumwkcswr .eveawfiveneg Inwvim cawtulwdwb egcnutiycawr wtwvun egukwtiawbwnig cniaWycairUhcmuj InwvimcSwkwmwkirev EdcSokcSwncnutiycawr cnutWrwf cnukwSwr wtwvun ukwywb emcnok .eveawfiverukulwdwb iawgumuawneg cnwkihwf iaWmureairuk cSwkwSwrea cnWviretctWkwrwh evWmcniz cnuhImegcaenwtea InWvcSwkwaWjItwn iawgugwmiruk .eveawfiSefInwvim eruvcSwnuhia ilevud iawacnumwrwairuk cniruk cnuvireviawb egcnemcaea iawgcaetogumcaWa eviaulwh cnegevWnwdurwh csevcaemwkWhiruh egumugcnih cnegibil .evemuawa (IswrckomiD wmwncnuhwbisErignia) Itwrukimid cnwkirev egEjcaWrim cnItwm egukwtulUsua eg cSwCcawm egukwtulUsua cnehea Ikwmuaidcnumwgnih Wvuniawfibil iawgumurukcnwkirev egIruk WviawfevWnib iverukclisWh cnwkcnwvinim cnutogctog caekwtea cSwkwawb wnigumcaWa egEjcaWrihevid cnubwbws egEa enEdcseneg cnuvehejwmwh iaWmuhejwmwhctih urutia WLwawDnwk cniretcnuncsiv IsWyis iawgumwkcaemwk .eveaedenub

egIm IkwaejcaWrihevid egudwaim cswkwaemcnok wmwnWliawlwb WvuLwa iaWairuk egurwhwa cSwkwhwLodcswf WrOfun ignEn .evekeaejcaWr cnehea cniLum iaWaIgcawrwt Ibitudwaim cnihevid ibitiawfevirehwkea ubWncnuf" cnehcnukwtogWhiruh iawgIhea egubIzuhwt Evelenub Eawfihej cSwSufcaenwa cSufctoa "evcsua .eveawfiveduawa iawrwairuk cSwbWsih ihevid urUhcxwm IkwaumIhwrcaudubwa urInwk .evekeairevcneL idwa caeairetcnuyil egurodeg egEjcaWr iawgnWtWh 1950 - 1960 :2 OTof utwlWh umcaWa elWm egurWhim :3 OTof WlifuSov cSwkwrwvirwd ukwawtiawdurudea :-4 OTof InedWLwa egEjcaWr cawtcsWluk Irwmiawrcp Wkwt IrwsWn :5 OTof iawguLokcnwkikea urwvcswvudwaid cnumeten cawtcawLufcnwf :6 OTof udwaim ugwmugwm wdwfcDOrckcnil - Eviawh :7 OTof .eveaenef cnubWsihikea egEjcaWr udihWz udwmchwa /udImwh cnisWy :rwfWrcgOTof

112

VARA 02

Ikwncnihevid iawgukwturwhwaeg 2000 udwaim emiawgcaeawnWm Whiruh wmwnifiawvuLwa iaWairuk WviawfevIgcawrwt iawrwairuk ukeaWmwkutibWs cSwrwv ImIluawt iaWkwtctWrWmia InWmwz emcnea .evekeawb egEyinud .evekeawb Wviawfibil cawtiDnukis egItekwtea iheTcawr iaWaIjolOnukeT iawgutwbcsin utWfwt .eveketiycawr Wdcnegcnumwfih cnunEb csevwmwhiawf iawgufws egEyinud iawgumwkcnwkikea ctoacnegihej iawgunWmwzeauriaea .evekeawbWruk ejcaWrim cseviawgEret egcnuhIm WkcnwlIrcs udwaim cSokutWfwt iaWaea .evedwmidWd cnuhIm wncnwd ejcaWrihevid cseviawgEyinudiLum uriaiawa 2010 EverukwgwhWf wncnwdcnemcnea evurUhcxwm Inwvim cSwTcsil egukwtubiawjwa egEyinud .eveawfevcSwkWt .eveawfilufuacnwn cSwbWsihWrWn Wrwa

cnuhImunuLua Wywgcsuh cnegednwailEf uhwvudcSwhia egurWhimemcaea udwaim .evencnegednwauDcnum Ibiteycaia irubcnudeh ednwaikiDnwk .eveawgunUluTwfiaWscnij cnehcnwaihevid evIzWm cswvudunuLua cnegiawl egukwtcnwxef egurWhim IneLuaiawl udwaim cnukwt iawfeLuaWkcawk cnegiawscawjurwd .evekwtcnudeh cnehcnemcnea urWhim uhwfcSwmukcaek iawgunudnuaoyet Orukiawm iaWnudnua cTcnwrwk wtwvun csEg Inwvim iawrwvcnef ireacSwvev .eveawgukea iaWkwtcnwvwa irevcnef cninWd iawTcawhwbuLwv iawgEgEg iawfeLua WvUdcSwawlcaimwa IbitimurWhim uhwfcSwkwtcswvud .eveawgumul Wrwvcnef cSokinif/unUh cnurukcsia .eveaInwgwnIrcgiD cnegebit iawguDnwgcswf wlcaimwa ukwtugwv emcnokcnunEb cSwkWtemcnok egEyinud iawgumuveyik iaWrwviLuk .eveaevelWLug cnunOfutwa iawgukwtctWrWbum egEyinud wlwhwkikea idwa urWbWhim caemureairukWhiruhim .eveawdOh cawtwnwv Ivirev cSeaeret egcnemerwhwa csiawa iawgcaeycaevud .eveaerukulWvus ukwywbwnig OtidehWkwbwbws cnok iawgutog egcaeairevurutwf eruscaurwhwa wnwv1961 egunwmurwj iawaejcaWr urwhwf12 cSwnwtWhim cSwrwv InidubWvwj egulWvusea ukwTcsijolOaixOs emcnea Ilenub ukeaWmwkcnIgwy WnEa .evencSokuruk iaWmwkirevukea .eveNcnub WnEa .evekeawlcmujed iawrwairuk caemuawg iawlun iaWmwkwtcnwviawbcaea cnukwLokirwdcaea .evenUncaemwk WvcnegISwkea Ikwmuaid cSwkwlUsuacaea WkcawdwkwhWv cnukwhwbcaea ibitcsiawa cnemElwk Iaeacnwkiv iawgumwkukwywb WbnwlOb .evebIswn egcnihevid

113

VARA 02

cnuSef iawacnegiSef iawguruawdim .eveSwtogWrOf cned uhwfcSwmuSef cnehiawgcaeLokcnwk Whiruh ihevid iaulwhunwhun cnehcaemwkWhiruh Ikwruawd iawacnegihej .everwvcswvud iawacnegiawrwairuk ukeaWmwk WhwjwvuaWnWr iTcauhcnuLea cnunwfiDnwd urodegitOg iaWmunEr cawturWfugwm iaWkwtugwm .evenuSefcnwdwh cSwaejcaWriLum caekwturwswa Whiruh egIgcawrwt iLeaWgcnib egumwkirevurutwf .eveawacnegirutef uncnwf egumwkirevcswm InwdcmWaiawm IvcnWmwz idehcaerwdnwb egiawv .eveawaid cnegiawrwairuk .eveaIawa cnegevihwdwb cnuLug iaWaeyinudurEb ukeaiaWhwbisErignia ugnor egumuveaik egumuluTcnwrwk WviawfiSefcniruk .evenuverukWLuf IvcSwkwaWjItwn .eveawa cnegevWLuf cnegevihwf cawtcnwk wdwfWrukuncsevIh iawgEret egcaeLokcswvudwDuk iawgugwm egubIzuhwt iaWaIgcawrwt caemuvenwgiawmcnuf .evemubil cSwaejcaWr

114

iawacned csogcnegimin cnubWsihea uruawdea egukwtctwkcawswmwdwg idwawrub egIruk Ikwrwvcswvud iSefcnebil iawgutwgIgwh cSwncnihevid cnwkurIminof iaWncnubwbws egumwkirevurutwf .everwvcswvud iaWmwkiretcnulEh iawacnegibil cSwkwtiDnukis csevcSwkwLokcnwk Whiruh egEjcaWr iawgIhea egIgcawrwt iawacnegibil caemureairuk egurwvWdcnegiawscais cSwhwvudcnuhwvud itencaemuDnekudem .evekerwvcswvud wyidimcnegevutwaev iawgumureairuk cnihevid idukidukim Iawyidcneginemih urwhwa cSwkwhwLodcswf EaIawyidcnegihej cSwSufcaenwa cSufctoa cawtcSwr .eveSwkwkwturwhwaivuneg caekwtulwdwb egurwvEvenub

VARA 02

iawgukwturwhwaeg 2000 udwaim iaWairuk Ikwncnihevid Whiruh wmwnifiawvuLwa cSwrwv emiawgcaeawnWm iawrwairuk ukeaWmwkutibWs .evekeawb WviawfevIgcawrwt iaWkwtctWrWmia InWmwz emcnea cawtiDnukis ImIluawt .evekeawb Wviawfibil cnunwtea WmIvuLWdiv EkeTObuDob wncnwa iawfWvcaud caeCcaea cnuSwd InwvcSwmwkivencned ukwhIm iawgEretea EkenUn .eveaOtcaegod cnegiawdcaiv uLufWsWmws cnumuvuLWdiv Encnegiawgcnihcaenesem EkemwkenWvun umiawgwmwh Iawait ESWvcawrukun uTObea WscawjcSwDnwk idwa .eveaevcSwmwkivencned cSwrwv cnurib cnuhImcaeawb cnumunef cnwtwncnwa urwzcnwmeaurEa iawgumwkunuLua cnegevuDobcnwk uriaea Iaea cswkwaemcnok .evenidWaik ukwhImcSud ISefcnWvulwdwb cnuDwmuDwm .evetwlWh egcnemerwhwa iaWhineT .evencniawmwhiaWsIawr ivencnedimcniruk cawtiDnukis cSwkwtcnuncsiv InWmwz ukeaiaWTekiruk cSwscnijed iawgumuveaik .evencnubWsihea ISefcnwlEh cawturwswaea cSwkwbWsih Whiruh egEjcaWr ISefcnebil

115

VARA 02

116

iaWmuncsiv egurEa .eveawgurwvcswvud unuSef uruawd WkwTcSwmulcSokWfwl urwviruh utWmUluawm wtwvun urukif .evenWdivelcSokufWscnia cSwkwaWsidWh IgIgwh ivcaerukcnwkcsIawr iawgIruk egcsIawr ivencnedim udwmcawhum Wviawgumwkcaelwkcswr caea cnulwkEbuhirwa egcnudwrea cnudwrcnIdcauscmwx Eaeduawawbea ejcaWr cawTObWvcaudcnitwm iawgutWg cnemcneaibit iawgnWtea utugwv ivuLWdiv egunWfegcswr idwa .eveaevcSwmwk unuTcauhcswb Iaea Inwviawgumwkivencned ukwkea csirwa emcaea cnitwm cnegiawrwa cnuhIm .eveaOtcaeTObwlwhwkcnok

VARA 02

iaWkwteg .eveten csevurwswa egOaiDEr IvIT iawgutib iawhwjiDum cSwmib Iruh cawtctWrWmia Ikwmuveaik .eveawfWhwj cnwvuLok wtwvun egcnwf cnutWgcaeawtiawd caeaeburudea wtwvun cnukwaegurudea cSwkwawbiduk udwmidWd csevcnegiawLwa WlifuSov .evekemwkwncnoa csevcnuhIm iaWnwtcnwt ukeaWnWmwz ISefcnwncnwa cSwaejcaWrim cnuaidWdcnumwvulwdwb wmwtwruf egEjcaWr .eveaenWdivenub EawgubWsihea egumwkcsIwr egcnImwaudwmcawhum csIawr egWycairUhcmuj

.eveTcauhwbea csevidwa cawtcnWdnwhea .evenwtWh 1950 .evehwvud cSwkwhia idWd wmwh Iaea udwaimcswvudea egEjcaWrihevidim egcnemerwhwa cseviawgumwkIvWfiawlWboa csogcSwaeret egIzWm cnuhImirukWbirujwt iawfihcnutwa eked cswvudea .eveaemcsevWkcawd cawtwkwhWvea ukeaiaWmwkcnWriawh cnegiawSokurwd .evehwvudcten caemwkilwa eguTcnwrwk cnemcaea Wkcawk cnegiawscawjiawgunudnua cnuhIm urwtwhcnited emcaea .evehwvud unuLua .evenWmwz ctenukwhIm wncnwd caehwburEb iawvwaif

caemwkiretcnuduf iawgcaekwtctogWdOb egiawdWa emcnea iawgcaekwtcSwridukiduk itencaemulifcnuLoaurodcnwt ,ejcaWrihevid ctoa uhwvudcSwhia iawgumwkirehwkea Itoaimcnwncnef udwaim iawgumuSef ctwgiawSwfeycaia cmIhwrcaudubwa urInwk .evenwtWviawfevulwdwbcniLum InwviawfWlWvuLwailwa cSwmuvulwdwbim egEjcaWrihevid .evencnokinof cSokuruk

csiawacnureairuk iaWaIgcawrwt

cSufctoa .eveaIhej cSwSufcaenwa

117

VARA 02