Vara Issue 1 by mabrouka jalyl

VARA 01

egugWrid Wvca wrukurWyih cnumuvcaerukudw rwh r10 cSwkwtclOk clwkOl WvcauLug Elih cniLum uhwvudeacSwkwrwbc nwn cliawbom envW wncnwgiawDwv ibil urwbcnwn 2 cSwmuvcae rukclOk clwnwxEnrwTcnia ukeaia WT cnuawkcsiD 10% idwa urwbcnwn1 egugWrid cSwmuvca erukclOk Elih cnumuvegcnen cnElcp cDc nercfc Tcseb egcDiaepircp

VARA 01

Wv wncnwv cSwa XX EIJSBBHV DPN NW cTia wscbev ugW rid cSwmuvedcaOh utWmUluawm urutia idwa cawtc TErclOk Wa egcDiaepircp ugWrid

WELCOME Dear Readers, On behalf of everyone at Maldivian I am truly delighted to introduce the very first issue of our in-flight magazine “VARA”. The word VARA in the Maldivian language Dhivehi means “WINGS”, and is more specifically attributed to wings that can give man, flight – making this word a most appropriate name for this magazine. The entire team at Maldivian is very excited about our new magazine, and I sincerely hope that VARA will enable us to reach out to all of our customers, not only with all the exciting news about the airline, but more importantly about our country Maldives, its people and culture and about the key players in our most crucial industry– tourism. Maldivian has come a long way since commencing its operations in the year 2000 and VARA is being introduced in a year in which the airline has reached a major milestone, namely its 10th anniversary. From very humble beginnings, commencing operations with only one Dornier-228 aircraft with 16 seats and one Dash8-200 aircraft with 37 seats in the year 2000, today we operate five aircrafts with a total fleet seating capacity of 190 seats. The last 10 years also witnessed the Maldives Government’s strategic plan to expand the scope of the tourism industry from a couple of key atolls close to the Malé international Airport, to the more secluded and untouched regions of the country giving you a wider breath of experiences and destinations within our beautiful archipelago. This decision by the Government strengthened the existing role of Maldivian in connecting the four regional airports of the country to the main hub at Male’ International Airport as plans were put in place for more and more resorts to be developed and operated in the regions with airports. This was also a most welcome move to ensuring that both the direct and indirect benefits of the tourism industry can be shared among Maldivians throughout the country. As the industry grew, so has the reach of Maldivian. Today, Maldivian provides safe and convenient flights to and from Male’ International Airport to the four existing domestic airports, catering to 8 tourist resorts with expectation to increase this number in the coming few months. Maldivian also caters to many special interest tourist groups traveling to the country for diving, surfing and fishing adventures. Since commencement of its operations solely as domestic carrier, Maldivian has also marked the completion of 2 years of operations of its Trivandrum sector. The airline began the operations with 5 frequencies per week and soon increased to 14 frequencies per week making this sector one of its most successful yet. With more plans for further expansion of the Maldives tourism industry being implemented by the Government, Maldivian welcomes the opportunity to expand our wings even further. I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our customers without whom we would not have made this successful 10-year journey capturing the experience of flying with Maldivian and embracing all the many aspects Maldives has to offers, and welcome those who will come to explore life’s many treasures through us. With your support Maldivian will continue to fly high for the next decade and beyond. Thank you for flying with us and I look forward to serving to you again soon.

Bandhu Ibrahim Saleem Managing Director

Maldivian – Owned and operated by Island Aviation Services Ltd.

VARA 01

POLE & LINE FISHING

ECO-LUXURY REDEFINED

TRIVANDRUM UNCOVERED

THE MALDIVIAN ENQUIRY

Using an age-old fishing technique, commercial fishermen of the Maldives catch tonnes of tuna in just one day. Writer and photographer Thomas Pickard heads out to sea to find out what it is all about.

The welcome courtesy and efficiency of Alila Villas Hadahaa, embraces guests before they even get to the resort, discovers Royston Ellis

Long beaches, coconut groves and traditional Kerala architecture with a Victorian touch define the cityscapes of Trivandrum. Arun Bhat discovers that the seaside city is in love with its traditions and takes pride in its heritage.

Interview with architect and painter Mauroof Jameel on the much referred notion of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Maldivian identityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Interviewed and written by Ifham Niyaz

VARA 01

WRITERS

Adrian Neville Aishath Shazra Arun Bhat Ifham Niyaz Kaneeru Abdull Raheem Naby Mariyam Royston Ellis Shaahina Ali Thomas Pickard

PHOTOGRAPHY Adrian Neville Ahmed Zahid Ahmed Ansam Alila Hotels & Resorts Arun Bhat Martin Whiteley Shaahina Ali Thomas Pickard TUI Robinson Club

TRANSLATIONS

PUBLISHER

Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd (for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd) M. Bageechaa Keneree Magu Maleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 20191 Republic of Maldives vara@bynd.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR David Kotthoff

ADVERTISING

Hassan Hisham

DESIGN & LAYOUT

DISCLAIMER

VARA is published twice a year by Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the publisher. Although every effort is made to ensure information is correct at press time, Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd and Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd do not represent or endorse the accuracy or reliability of any of the information, content or advertisements contained in this magazine, nor the quality of any products, information or other materials displayed, purchased, or obtained by you as a result of an advertisement or any other information or offer in or in connection with this magazine and expressly disclaim liability for errors and omissions in any and all contents.

Hawwa Sithna Ahmed Ansam

Novelty Printers & Publishers Pvt Ltd

Hilath Rasheed Kaneeru Abdull Raheem

MALDIVIANS AND THE MALDIVIAN LANGUAGE

ROBINSON CLUB: WHERE HOSPITALITY MEETS CAMARADERIE

ANTIQUE MAPS OF MALDIVES

PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE

FLAVOURS OF MALDIVES

AN INTRODUCTION TO DIVING IN MALDIVES

58 UNIQUELY FUVAHMULAH It is an island and an atoll, with a distinctive dialect of Dhivehi. Fuvahmulah stands out among the more than thousand coral islands for more than just its size as Aishath Shazra discovers on her journey to the south.

VARA 01

DHIVEHI IS A UNIQUE LANGUAGE NATIVE ONLY TO THE MALDIVES AND THE BORDERING MINICOY ISLANDS. KANEERU ABDULL RAHEEM EXPLAINS ITS ROOTS AND DIVERSE INFLUENCES, AND WHY IT’S AS MULTIRACIAL AS THE MALDIVIANS THEMSELVES.

MALDIVIANS

AND THE MALDIVIAN LANGUAGE

VARA 01

he Maldives archipelago is widely believed by scholars, including Charles Darwin, to have grown out of corals,that formed around the edges of sunken volcanoes, and gradually evolved into islands. A few decades back, during (unsuccessful) exploratory drillings for oil, engineers uncovered granite from volcanoes and coral fossils over 50 million years old. The origins of the Maldivian people, however, remain something of a mystery. Historians claim that people started settling here from the time when vessels crossed the Indian Ocean to the Far East. Even though the strategic location of the islands give raise to this claim, it is still unclear when the first settlers arrived on Maldivian shores. Some researches have suggested the islands existed hundreds of years before Jesus Christ.

SIMILARITIES IN FEATURES AND CULTURE INDICATE THAT MALDIVIANS ARE THE DESCENDENTS OF ASIANS AND AFRICANS.

younger than the South Indian languages that evolved from the Dravidians. A writing dating from 9 AD contains ‘Naagaree’ alphabet. Maldivians’ earliest alphabet is said to be the ‘Eveylaa’ alphabet. This claim is strengthened by the similarities that are found between Sinhala language’s ‘Eyloo’ alphabet and the alphabets used in those days in Tamil language. ‘Eyloo’ alphabet also shares relations with other South Indian languages like Telugu and Kannada. Hence, it is believed that all these alphabets have to be grouped as being descendents sharing the same origin.

Italian historical records state that travelers in 100 AD obtained turtle shell from “some islands near India.” The Maldive islands are also mentioned in Greek writings from the 2nd century. Literature yields that Dhiv’s (Maldivians) traveled with gifts to bestow on Julian of Rome in 360 AD. These findings suggests that a Maldivian civilization existed decades, if not centuries, before - or else Maldivians would not have been traveling to other lands bestowing gifts on their leaders. We are able to ascertain the islands they are referring to is Maldives, by names such as ‘Dhivi’ and ‘Mahilaadhuveepika.’ Although one cannot be establish the ethnicity of Maldivians or when the islands were populated, facial features indicate that Maldivians are descendents of Asians and Africans. The habits and lifestyles of Maldivians also show strong influence of South Indian culture. In addition, with similarities in language and dialect to Dravidians and Aryans, we have to believed that they played a major role in moulding the Maldivian civilization or shaping the people as they are now. Maldivian native language, Dhivehi, is a ‘child’ of Sanskrit; a language that is

VARA 01

Dhivehi language is said to have integrated and borrowed words of different languages. This could be the result of immigration of people from those countries to the Maldives. Arabic, Persian, Sinhala, Tamil and Malayalam can be noted in this regard although the language that was first spoken in the islands remains unknown. According to one historical researcher, Dhivehi is an Indo-Aryan language: A people who spoke the old Proto-IndoEuropean language came and settled in the Maldives; over time the language changed and gradually branched away. It gave way to Sanskrit which in turn resulted in the creation of many of India’s languages, Sinhala and even Dhivehi. The research says that this evidence is drawn from the close fraternity enjoyed by the grammar and words of these languages. The words of Dhivehi language enjoy close relations with the Malay language of old -such as words like ‘adu’ (sound), ‘beedha’ (in that way), and ‘bihi’ (pimple). Words like ‘kandu’ (sea), ‘dhoni’ (ocean vessel), ‘nala’ (beautiful), and ‘koafaa’ (anger) from Tamil and Malayalam, and words like ‘niapothu’ (fingernail) and ‘bathu’ (rice) from Sinhala are also notable. Even words like ‘furathama’ (first), ‘uthuru’ (north), and ‘satheyka’ (hundred) made its way into Dhivehi from other sources. Words like ‘namaazu’ (prayer), ‘roazaa’ (fasting), and ‘bangi’ (call to prayer) came from Persian, and words like ‘galam’ (pen), ‘eid’ (festivity), ‘jawaabu’ (answer) and ‘insaanaa’ (human being) from Arabic. Later, words like ‘marutheyo’ (hammer), ‘baalidhee’ (bucket) and ‘boakibaa’ (sweet or spicy cake) were believed to have made their way into Dhivehi from Portuguese, and all these words have become naturalized and Maldivian.

Words that made their way into Dhivehi have been ‘adapted’ phonetically, resulting in such words loosing their ‘foreignness’ -- their naturalization further consolidated. However, words from English that recently made its way into Dhivehi are generally pronounced in the English accent. As a result such English words used in Dhivehi language in future will continue to be heard in their unnaturalized, English form. This

VARA 01

ACCORDING TO ONE HISTORICAL RESEARCHER, DHIVEHI IS AN INDO-ARYAN LANGUAGE: A PEOPLE WHO SPOKE THE OLD PROTO-INDOEUROPEAN LANGUAGE CAME AND SETTLED HERE

THE HABITS AND LIFESTYLES OF MALDIVIANS ALSO SHOW STRONG INFLUENCE OF SOUTH INDIAN CULTURE.

is predicted to bring about considerable changes to the phonetic sounds of Dhivehi: earlier generations were completely alien to all the foreign words that came from abroad while younger generations of Maldivians are more familiar with the new words that are seeping into Dhivehi. Like other languages, Dhivehi also adapted to changing contexts and circumstances: a language which contains influences of various world powers and schools of religious thought; a language whose alphabet saw changes to form, structure, and way of writing (earlier from left to

right and now from right to left). While evidence indicating various historical events can be drawn from the words in the language, the phonetics and sounds of the language also shed light on the character and etiquette of Maldivians. A country isolated with a sparse populace that has their own language and alphabet is something that Maldivians can be proud of. Speaking a common language is also one of the uniting factors of this country. Dhivehi is a language Maldivians have loved and respected over the centuries.

Kaneeru Abdull Raheem is a well known Maldivian poet and writer. This essay has been compiled from â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tharikaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; written by Naseema Mohamed, and facts drawn from various writings by historians. Translated from Dhivehi into English by Hilath Rasheed. Photos by: Ahmed Zahid / Ahmed Ansam / Shaahina Ali

VARA 01

A virgin island. Powder white sand. Palm trees. Crystal clear turquoise water. Dolphins frolicking and rainbows of ﬁsh shimmering in and around the coral reef. Welcome to Laamu, Six Senses new resort on the island of Olhuveli, deep in the Indian Ocean. The 100 villas have been carefully designed to complement nature. Each allows utter privacy. Near to the peaceful blue lagoon is a surfer’s paradise, with majestic ten foot waves. At night, Six Senses Laamu really starts to rock. The Chill bar is built over the water, with a world class cocktail list. The wine ‘cellar’, Altitude, is a tower of spun glass, rising high out of the sea, and a choice of restaurants oﬀers world class food and wine. There is a Kid’s Club, a Six Senses Spa and many daily excursions to choose from. For more information please contact: Tel: +960 680 0800 E-mail: reservations-laamu@sixsenses.com

MA L D I V ES

www.sixsenses.com

VARA 01

www.sixsenses.com

VARA 01

THERE WERE OVER 100 GUESTS AND NEARLY 300 STAFF – OF 23 DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES – WHEN I STAYED AT ROBINSON CLUB MALDIVES, AND I WAS THE ONLY BRIT. BUT THAT DIDN’T MATTER BECAUSE THE PHILOSOPHY OF HOSPITALITY AT CLUB ROBINSON IS ALL ABOUT CAMARADERIE, REPORTS ROYSTON ELLIS

ROBINSON CLUB:

WHERE HOSPITALITY MEETS CAMARADERIE

VARA 01

obinson Club is a new resort located on the island of Funamadua roughly in the centre of the huge Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll. The resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guests are met on arrival from abroad at the Maleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; International Airport and escorted by the Robinson Club airport representative to the domestic airport. The Maldivian flight to Kaadedhdhoo takes about 55 minutes, and the time passes quickly because of the breathtaking scenery of glimmering islands below.

Another representative is on hand to escort guests from the airport terminal for the 200m walk to the jetty; there are free trolleys for the luggage. It takes about 25 minutes by dedicated launch across the vast atoll to the resort. The first view of

VARA 01

the island is of dense tropical vegetation typical of the Maldives, tall coconut palms and tangles of jungle with roofs of the bungalows peeping through. To welcome arrivals there is a choice of sparkling wine or iced tea on the jetty. All resorts in the Maldives are horizontal, there are no lifts to your room as in city hotels, and so walking is obligatory. The island is 107,300 sq m (26.5 acres) in area and circled by 1.2km of sandy beach. It is ideal for gentle hikes along nature trails. However, there are buggies available, especially for the long walk along the jetty linking the 24 water bungalows and the presidential villa to the shore. Many resorts have water bungalows

and these sell at a premium. The ones at Robinson Club are spacious and practical, easy on the eye as well as comfortable inside. The door opens into an entrance hall which doubles up as a dressing chamber for ladies with its own, long brightly lit vanity mirror. There is a coffee machine and kettle there as well as the minibar. A large wardrobe also houses a mini safe. The bungalow has a pinnacled roof covered with composition tiles and a wooden ceiling. Its floor is polished timber, complementing the tall four-poster bed in the bedroomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s centre. There is an additional day bed (for a child if necessary). A glass coffee table is poised unnervingly over four glass panels giving a view of the lagoon below, where fishes glide idly past.

A side desk for a laptop has plenty of sockets and there is free Wifi connectivity. A flat screen television shelters in a corner. Competing with it is the view out over the lagoon across a broad wooden deck. There is a Jacuzzi for two on the deck and a wooden staircase down to the sea so guests can swim to the beach if they like or snorkel from the doorstep. In addition there is dining table for two (invilla room service is available at an extra charge) two sun loungers and a round rattan shell-shaped couch that looks as though it has come from a 1950s Hollywood musical – all glamour and hinting at romance. The bathroom, with a second bathtub and shower cubicle as well as a bidet, can be accessed from the bedroom or the deck, so guests can sit in the tub as though floating in the ocean. There are 76 bungalows on the island itself, of which 26 are garden villas. While these don’t have a beach view, they have an intimate cosiness in the interior as well as a garden bathroom and rain shower. They nestle in the shade and seclusion of lush vegetation and are only a few paces away from the beach. There are 50 beach villas, some in pairs with connecting doors so they can be used by families and friends. All the villas have a living area with couch, as well as a terrace open to the beach, All the bedrooms have a high ceiling fan as well as air-conditioning, and a bathroom blessed with a bidet. An unusual feature of staying at the resort is the special promotion that enables guests to upgrade to the presidential villa for 24 hours – with champagne, dinner and message therapy included. Cocktail and dinner parties can also be arranged in the presidential villa (which is at the end of the jetty of villas protruding out over the lagoon) if it’s unoccupied. The facilities at the resort seem endless, part of the programme of providing everything possible for guests to be able to enjoy themselves. The Duniyespa spa is in its own private village with individual treatment cottages. There is a fitness centre, with a sauna, and the centre can also be used by guests who want to chill out while awaiting a late departure.

VARA 01

The gym looks like a fitness factory with every conceivable machine for a hectic work out. Personal trainers to help guests with a specially prepared regime are available as an extra; otherwise the use of the gym is, like so many other activities at the resort, free of charge. There are other areas for various games, like volleyball on the beach between guests and staff, and a library of indoor games as well as books. A fascinating artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s workshop, the Atelier, enables guests to produce their own works of art under guidance from a resident artist.

Of course, diving and water sports are paramount in the pristine setting of this atoll newly opened to tourists. There is a dedicated diving centre with master divers

VARA 01

and even a resident marine biologist. The water sports centre features all kinds of equipment for trying out in the lagoon, including kayaks, catamarans and windsurfing boards. All these activities give an idea of the fun to be had at Robinson Club; it is a traditional Maldives resort with sun, sand and sea, with the addition of enthusiastic European bonhomie. The executive staff members eat with the guests and are always on hand to be of assistance. Although 50 percent of the staff are Maldivian, staff of the 22 other nationalities act as hosts as well as administrators, to make sure the party mood prevails. At the lunchtime buffet I was amazed to discover my seafood salad prepared

in front of me was being mixed by the storekeeper, while the pasta was whipped up by the managerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s secretary. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of the staff credo that they should be able to do everything in the resort, so that they get to know the guests and what they like. At dinner with its amazing choice of roast meats there was a dessert counter with more than two dozen sweet choices. The cheese platter had a selection of strong cheese surely seldom seen at a resort in the Maldives. Breakfast was a cornucopia of dishes featuring international cuisine to kick start the day, with smoked salmon as well as cured meats, the usual egg dishes, and a tempting selection of healthy, light, organic options. The club concept means that all meals (as

buffets) and lots of activites are included in the room rate. Mineral water, wine and beer with meals is also provided as part of the package, while guests pay for any extras (such as cocktails, spa treatments, excursions) that they require.

An unusual feature

THE RESORT HAS A SPECIAL PROMOTION THAT ENABLES GUESTS

There is also a speciality restaurant Das Edel for A La Carte dining and theme barbecues and Zero 32, a nightclub that doesn’t open until midnight. There is a main bar with a magnificent long wooden top bar counter manned by skilled and affable barmen from Sri Lanka; a pool bar, a sundowner bar and a sports bar.

TO UPGRADE TO

For guests who seek healthy living instead of hedonism during the holiday, Robinson Club has a “Well fit” programme of daily activities. The emphasis all the time is

INCLUDED.

THE PRESIDENTIAL VILLA FOR 24 HOURS – WITH CHAMPAGNE, DINNER AND MESSAGE THERAPY

on seeing that guests “feel good.” This works well at Robinson Club and I found it remarkable how not just the hosts from overseas but the Maldivians too were genuinely friendly. It was while I was walking back to my villa after breakfast, strolling along the broad decks of sun-bleached timber from the restaurant and around the swimming pool, that I was reminded of being on a luxury cruise liner. It wasn’t only the deck space that recalled a gracious liner, but the feeling of being at sea with friends. As on a cruise, there is so much to do at Robinson Club with organised activities, shows, theme nights, and fascinating people to meet and converse with. I needn’t have worried about being the only Brit on the island as everyone seemed to speak English. At Robinson Club there is the perfect combination of international know-how with the brilliance of well-designed cuisine (even the roasts from the buffet are presented artistically on the plate, not piled high on top of everything else), and the warm Maldivian concern to see that guests are happy. For a complete holiday, on a verdant island in the middle of an idyllic, unspoiled atoll, Robinson Club Maldives is definitely “Hot!”

Royston Ellis is a British-born novelist and travel writer based in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives for over 25 years. He is the author of A Hero In Time, a novel based on the life of Mohamed Takurufaan, the 16th century national hero of the Maldives. He writes regularly for in-flight magazines and international publications, and is the author of the Berlitz, Bradt and Insight guidebooks about the Maldives. Photos by: TUI Robinson Club

VARA 01

WHEN TRAVELLERS FIRST HEARD OF THE MALDIVES IN THE OLD DAYS, IT WAS HARD TO FIND THE ISLANDS ON A MAP; NOW IT IS HARD TO FIND AN OLD MAP OF THE MALDIVES, WRITES ROYSTON ELLIS.

ANTIQUE MAPS OF

MALDIVES

VARA 01

ollecting antique maps is a rewarding hobby, not just because old maps increase in value over the years, but also for the pleasure of owning a unique and informative work of art. While an antique map framed and hanging on a wall of a home or a hotel is an intriguing conversation piece, it is also a reminder of simpler days when travel across oceans was by sailing vessel, not plane, and navigation was by the stars, not computer. Collecting antique maps of North America, Australia and Europe is popular among people living in those continents as a memento of the past. Not many people, however, collect maps of the Maldives. This means that maps of the Maldives by renowned cartographers can be bought for much less than, say, a map of France by the same cartographer.

VARA 01

map itself, such as towns and mountains, cannot be shown in proportion and so are presented by symbols.” From the late 16th century maps not only became more accurate but were printed from a design and lettering cut into copper plates. These are more interesting aesthetically to a collector as they show graduations of light and shade. Maps printed from the 19th century are from etched steel plates and, being very exact are not so attractive as the older ones. Maps were originally issued in the form of books and printed on one side of almost imperishable handmade paper, enabling them to be extracted from the book with ease.

4 However, antique maps of the Maldives are scarce simply because not many were published from 1500 until steel plate printing was introduced. The islands of the Maldives were known to ancient mariners and they were wary of them because of reefs that caused ships to run aground. Hand drawn charts existed although they would have been etched as plans on clay tablets, carved on stone and metal, and scratched on papyrus, vellum, linen, silk and paper. It was not until the invention of printing in the 15th century that multiple copies of a single map could be produced. Even so, the Maldives appear on charts as a group of islands and atolls rather than maps of individual islands because there was hardly anything on an island to record apart from thatched huts and palm trees. As more visitors to the Maldives become interested in the islands’ history, the demand for antique maps has increased. At the resort of Baros Maldives there is a newly-opened gallery called The Maldivian Lounge that aims to have the finest collection in the world of antique maps of the Maldives.

Maps are fascinating because, according to map expert R V Tooley writing in 1976 in the Stanley Gibbons guide to Collecting Antique Maps, they “have a double charm, visual and historical.” Tooley defined antique maps as “pictorial history presented with the greatest economy of space.” He wrote: “A good map is a work of considerable ingenuity. It is in part fact, part fantasy. Distances and areas have to be exact and in proportion, but details in the

The early maps were printed in black ink and some collectors insist only on maps that are uncoloured, as originally published. Hand colouring of antique maps became popular in the 19th century and some artists specialised in map colouring. Since no two coloured maps are the same, each one has additional value as a unique work of art. Although most antique maps of the Maldives are now expensive to collect, miniature maps printed from engraved copper plates occasionally come on the market at around US$250 each. These are sought after by collectors who concentrate

A GOOD MAP IS A WORK OF CONSIDERABLE INGENUITY. IT IS IN PART FACT, PART FANTASY. DISTANCES AND AREAS HAVE TO BE EXACT AND IN PROPORTION, BUT DETAILS IN THE MAP ITSELF, SUCH AS TOWNS AND MOUNTAINS, CANNOT BE SHOWN IN PROPORTION AND SO ARE PRESENTED BY SYMBOLS

VARA 01

on the work of particular mapmakers like Bertius and Munster. The map of Asia by the German cartographer Sebastian Munster (14881552) is one of the earliest printed maps of the continent. It first appeared in the 1540 edition of Ptolemy’s Geography and the information incorporated in it is derived from reports about the travels of Marco Polo (1254-1324) during his 24 years in Asia. A detail of the Munster map of Asia, printed in 1550 in Basle, shows Sri Lanka as Zeylan while the islands to its south, meant to be the Maldives, are not named. From the same source of Ptolemy comes a delightful, copper engraved miniature map dedicated to the Maldives (as Maldivae Insulae) by Petrus Bertius (1565-1629). With east at the top, this shows a phalanx of islands in approximately the right location, stretching from north, alongside Ceylon (so named on the map) across the Equator. The map features two sailing ships and a whale and is possibly the earliest printed map concentrating solely on the Maldives. Bertius was based in Amsterdam and the map was issued in 1598 for the Dutch East India Company (VOC). The earliest maps of the Maldives reflect the confusion of mariners about the islands with many of the maps just showing a clump of tight circles, representing the atolls, stretching from north to south. In some maps, the Equator is wrongly placed, while on other, older maps, islands representing the Maldives are scattered around the southern rim of Taprobane (Sri Lanka). The Dutch, as a result of their sea-going escapades, produced many maps in the 17th century. An example is “Mare Arabicum et Indicum” by H F Langren (1600-1675) in 1670. This shows the Maldives in the same format, as several blocks of islands, similar to the Bertius map of 70 years earlier.

Maps by British cartographers in the 17th century showing Maldives are rare. One of the earliest English maps of the region is by Robert Morden (1650-1703), whose small map printed in London in 1687 of

VARA 01

the Maldives includes Ceylon. However, this follows the same format of atolls in blocks although names are attached in English. Earlier, in 1652, Nicholas Sanson (1600-1667), called the father of French cartography, produced a map of “Ceylan et les Maldives.” This has been widely printed in modern reproductions. (It is easy to spot a reproduction because of the gloss of the paper; genuine antique maps are printed on parchment quality paper that is toned with age). Maps by the Portuguese, who occupied Maldives from 1558 to 1573, are extremely rare, with the frenetically artistic Atlas Miller (1519) being the most famous example. However, a Frenchman who was a foot soldier in the Portuguese army, Alain Manessan Mallet (1630-1706) produced in 1719 an exquisite map of the Maldives that’s very much in demand.

5 6

His “Isles des Maldives” was published in Paris in 1683 and has a splendid cartouche held above a surging sea by two water babies. The hand colouring of this map was done a couple of centuries later and adds to the drawing’s charm. The islands are named in detail. There is a map dedicated to the Maldives (“Carte des Isles Maldives”) printed from a copper engraving and published in Leipzig in 1750 by Nicolaus Bellin. Bellin (1703-1772) was a Royal Cartographer of France and some of his maps are extremely valuable. His map of the Maldives is an attractive but straight forward depiction of the islands. It shows remarkable detail and accuracy, apparently gleaned from mariners’ voyages. The atolls are delineated and named, and to the right of the islands is a striking compass rose and a decorative title cartouche. It sometimes comes up for sale at about US$300. His successor as cartographer to the French royal court was Rigobert Bonne (1727-1795) who brought a touch of modern clarity to his maps, eschewing the frills of 17th century mapmakers. There are several versions of his map of India, Ceylon and Maldives produced in 1780. It shows Male’ as the capital, adjoining the

“I du Roy” (King’s island) as well as using arrows to indicate the monsoon seasons. Perhaps the most interesting maps of the Maldives in the 18th century are a set of three by Van Keulan (1654-1715) based on Dutch charts. These maps were engraved on to copper plates marked with standardised rhumb lines and published in the secret atlas of the Dutch East India Company (VOC) for internal use. They are extremely rare and one set was offered for sale recently at around U$6,500. These maps were not copied from other cartographers but compiled from information communicated by Dutch navigators. The maps were zealousy guarded by the Dutch so they did not fall into the hands of their enemies. Even when they were published in 1753, nearly 50 years after being drawn, their circulation was restricted. The main map shows the atolls in great detail to the west of Ceylon (not west of India as in other maps of the time). The other two maps show details of today’s South Male’ Atoll showing Vadoo as Wedu, and of Aria (Ari) Atoll. That map is especially interesting as it shows Weledoe (Velidhoo) and records the wreck of a sailing ship called Ravenstein on a reef at the edge of the atoll. It’s small details like that, which the history books have forgotten, that make the study and collecting of antique maps of the Maldives so fascinating, giving us a deeper understanding of times past.

VARA 01

USING AN AGE-OLD FISHING TECHNIQUE, COMMERCIAL FISHERMEN OF THE MALDIVES CATCH TONNES OF TUNA IN JUST ONE DAY. WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER THOMAS PICKARD HEADS OUT TO SEA TO FIND OUT WHAT IT IS ALL ABOUT.

POLE & LINE

FISHING

VARA 01

t is the start of another day for a group of commercial pole fishermen on Feydhoo Island in the Maldives. As instructed, I wait dockside watching the crew load supplies onto the 100-foot fishing dhoni. With 10litre containers of water hoisted on their shoulders, fishermen wobble their way across a wooden plank, barely 8 inches wide. Just when I am certain I have been forgotten, I am introduced to the captain of the vessel. We don’t have much to say – I can’t speak Dhivehi, the language of the Maldives - and he can’t speak much English. My friend Siddeeg takes care of the introductions and I am told to board the vessel.

The Maldives is a well-known tourist destination, thanks to the combination of year round warm temperatures, turquoise coloured waters and idyllic sandy beaches.

VARA 01

With some of the world’s best dive sites, and any number of world-class surf breaks, it is easy to understand why the Maldives attracted 655,852 tourists in 2009. Stretching 800 kilometres north to south, the Maldives is just over an hours flight south from Sri Lanka. With 26 atolls and 1,192 islands – 200 locally inhabited and 97-resort occupied – the Maldives is 1% land mass and 99% ocean. Like tourism, commercial fishing in the Maldives is big business. Commercial fishing in 2009 employed an estimated 11% of the workforce and contributed 335 million Rufiya (or 3.3%) to the nations GDP. Despite being an age-old occupation in the Maldives, modernisation has come about at a slow pace. The first real mechanisation of fishing dhonis occurred around the mid1970s with the introduction of engines and the gradual decline in the use of cloth sails.

Over the next 30 years electronics such as global positioning systems and sonar would become standard for most fishing dhonis. Despite these advances, the actual technique – known as pole and line fishing - has remained relatively unchanged. As a photographer living in the Maldives I had heard early on about the tales of fishermen wrestling 20-kilogram tuna onto fishing boats. The people I spoke to used terms like ‘tonnage’ to describe how much a well-trained crew could catch in a day. Quietly, I had a hard time believing the stories – I mean fishermen, ‘flicking’ tuna out of the ocean and onto the back of a boat? Come on. The bait was set though and I realised I had to get myself onto a commercial fishing boat during my yearlong stay. Which brings me back to my current location.

It is 11.58pm and like the crew, I am still trying to wake up. Men huddle around the cook as he hands out hot cups of instant coffee laced with sugar and sweetened milk. No one talks much, let alone to me. Just when I am starting to wonder if this was such a good idea, someone hands me a cup of coffee - it is strong and tastes good - I gulp it down waiting for the caffeine to kick in. Two cups later I find an out of the way spot on the deck and watch the crew of 20 go about readying equipment for the work ahead. With the crew lining the side of the dhoni, the captain slowly motors around the calm waters of the atoll, all the while checking the sonar for groups of red dots – the tell tale signs of baitfish. With two large lights set up off the side of the boat, the passing water is illuminated in a radiating turquoise blue. At one stage an adult turtle appears out of the gloom and effortlessly swims past us – it is an unexpected and awesome sight. Just when I am starting to wonder how long this process might take, the water takes on a darker, more greyish appearance – baitfish. For the next 90-minutes, the crew work in unison to bring in a supply of baitfish. The process is deceptively simply - two groups of five men slowly lower two 30foot long, hardwood poles vertically into the water. Using the edge of the dhoni as a pivot point, the men use their combined weight to lever the poles from a vertical to horizontal position. As they do, the finely woven net strung between the two poles

LIKE TOURISM, COMMERCIAL FISHING IN THE MALDIVES IS BIG BUSINESS. COMMERCIAL FISHING IN 2009 EMPLOYED AN ESTIMATED 11% OF THE WORKFORCE AND CONTRIBUTED 335 MILLION RUFIYA (OR 3.3%) TO THE NATIONS GDP.

VARA 01

rises, catching the unexpecting baitfish. Sparkling like diamonds, the wriggling fish are quickly hauled in and deposited into a holding tank filled with aerated seawater. With the baitfish caught I am expecting us to leave the atoll for the open ocean. Instead, nearly all the crew disperse themselves around the dhoni and lay down for some rest. With no beds on board and only two long benches to sit on, nearly

everyone lies straight on the floor, with a group of men lying on the back deck. With bodies lying all around I manage to find a spot long enough for my 6-foot plus frame. Two bags of fishing nets make for comfortable pillows, though the smell isn’t the best. Sleep washes over me. It is 1.30am. At 3.30am I am prodded awake. As my eyes adjust to the gloom, I see the crew

form a line with each man grabbing hold of a rope. With one man chanting, the crew slowly hauls the anchor on board. With the lights of Feydhoo Island still visible in the distance, our dhoni turns east and heads for the open water of the Indian Ocean. The crew returns to the deck, laying down all around me. I am asleep before my head hits my fish net pillow. It is 3.45am. At 5.30am I wake. I don’t know why – maybe it is the gentle rocking of the boat amongst the 2-metre swell. Whatever the reason, my eyes are sore with lack of sleep, and to make things worse I start to feel that familiar feeling of seasickness. Looking around, I notice we are surrounded by the endless blue expanse of the Indian Ocean with no land in sight. With most of the crew sleeping, I watch as night time fades into day and for just a few minutes our lone dhoni is bathed in a magnificent amber light as the sun scrapes over the horizon. With ever increasing nausea, I lay back down. It is 6.50am. At 7.50am most of the men are up and crowding around the cook who is serving up breakfast. Despite how I feel, I force myself to get up. The cook hands me a plate filled with rice, tuna curry and roshi. As much as I like the food, my stomach has other ideas – I settle on a cup of coffee instead. The men sit quietly eating their meals, most staring vacantly out to sea. With meals finished, nearly everyone returns to sleep. It is 8.20am. Finding feeding tuna takes most of the morning. With nearly all of the crew sleeping, the captain and two crew spend their time systematically scanning the ocean with binoculars, looking for flocks of feeding birds – a sure sign of feeding tuna. Minutes after spotting a large flock of birds near the ocean’s surface, someone spots two smaller fishing dhonis – one off to port and one off to starboard. The race is on.

Our larger dhoni arrives first and the freshly woken crew are already lining the back end of the dhoni with bamboo poles strung with fishing line and a barb less hook in hand. Some men wear helmets and

VARA 01

ski goggles as protective eye wear – getting hit by a flying tuna is a real hazard. As the captain jockeys the dhoni into position, two crew - one on either side of the dhoni start throwing handfuls of live bait into the water. Known as chumming, this action helps concentrate the tuna around the back of the dhoni where the fishermen stand. Within minutes, each of the fishermen begins hooking tuna from the boiling waters. Fishermen strain as they try and hoist the flapping fish out of the water and onto the back deck. As the fish thump onto the deck, they release the hook and die within minutes. As quickly as it

started, it ends. As the fishermen put their poles down, the rest of the crew push the catch into the below deck storage space. For the next two hours this process is repeated – intense boredom and tiredness, interspersed with 15-minute blocks of all-out fishing action. Just after midday the crew decide enough is enough. After cleaning up, rice, tuna curry and roshi is served for lunch. With the fishing done the men seem more jovial and happier – conversation flows freely. For the first time since boarding the dhoni I think I can handle some food. I tap the cook on the shoulder and indicate I would like some curry - his faces creases into a big smile.

Four hours later we are back in the atoll, having just transferred the catch to a larger processing ship. The tally for the day is 7 tonnes. The previous day the crew landed 16 tonnes. On really good days, 20 to 30 tonnes is normal. The tuna will be snap frozen and eventually taken to markets in South-East Asia for sale. Fourteen hours after stepping onto the dhoni I step back onto the dock at Feydhoo Island. As I say farewell to the crew, one of the fisherman hands me a cleaned and filleted 10 kg skipjack tuna. The meat is a deep burgundy colour and it is fresh – it will make for a great curry.

Thomas Pickard is a writer/photographer and a former Maldives resident. He returns to the Maldives annually for photographic assignments. Photos by: Thomas Pickard / Ahmed Zahid

If you are looking for something different to do during your stay in the Maldives, then an evening fishing trip may be for you. Arranged through your resort, trips generally last 2 to 3 hours, leaving early evening. Unlike this story, you can expect to cruise calmer waters and to use hand lines with buckets of bait provided. Prices range from $25 to $50 per person. For the more serious angler, tag-and-release big game fishing may be more to your liking. Using speedboats and specialised equipment, you can expect to head out into the open ocean to hunt for yellowfin tuna, blue and black marlin, barracuda, wahoo and jackfish. Whatever you catch, must be released in accordance with the ‘tag and release’ policy of the game fishing industry in the Maldives. Prices generally start at around $300 for four hours and can go upwards of $1000 depending on the duration of your trip. Don’t forget your camera. When cruising the waters of the Maldives, be environmentally responsible by following these guidelines. DON’T TRASH THE OCEAN Discarded fishing line, hooks and rubbish – particularly plastics, all pose a serious threat to seabirds, turtles and marine life. You should never discard waste into the ocean. An empty matchbox or an old film canister (get one from the photo lab) is ideal for used cigarette butts. RESPECT AND PROTECT WILDLIFE If you are fortunate enough to encounter marine mammals on the ocean surface, make sure you keep your distance and don’t feed them.

VARA 01

WHEN THE FIRST TOURIST RESORT IN MALDIVES OPENED ITS DOORS IN 1972, NOBODY ANTICIPATED NOT ONLY THE CHANGES TOURISM WOULD BRING TO THE COUNTRY AS A WHOLE, BUT ALSO HOW THE TOURISM INDUSTRY ITSELF WOULD EVOLVE OVER THE DECADES THAT FOLLOWED. ADRIAN NEVILLE LOOKS BACK AT WHAT ONCE WAS, AND WHAT IT BECAME.

PAST, PRESENT &

FUTURE

VARA 01

t’s an honour and a pleasure to contribute to Maldivian’s inaugural inflight magazine. Just as the airline has gone through several incarnations since its inception, so the resorts of the Maldives have made step changes to go from basic to sophisticated. I will be putting some history to the resorts that you see today and show them as they were growing up. Hudhuveli to Soneva Gili is one of the most radical changes of them all but first I’ll take you down south to Addu Atoll where I went on assignment with Air Maldives, before the first resort opened there. Before Island Aviation Services was incorporated in 2000, the regional airports were serviced by Air Maldives. Gan on Addu Atoll was the only such airport until the late 1980’s when Hanimaadhu on Haa Dhaalu and Kaddhu on Laamu were built. Finally Kaadedhdhoo on Gaaf Dhaalu was opened in 1993. To celebrate this and promote flights to the regional airports,

VARA 01

it was decided to make a calendar for 1994 on each airport, incorporating what neighbouring islands had to offer.

a nod to the olden days, the resort has a special snooker and billiards room and a couple of tennis courts.

As you can imagine, it was no great burden to fly around the country with a small team and six air hostesses, looking for iconic locations and indigenous crafts to photograph. On Kulhudufushi, the capital of Haa Dhaalu, for example, we photographed the still extant skill of making coir rope by hand. On Addu, we found a craftsman of fine model dhonis and also a delightful location along a curving lagoon where a lonely swing had been hung from a leaning palm.

Every other resort in the country fills out its own island but this resort is not only a part of a much bigger island with an airport and commerce but it is connected by a causeway to six other inhabited and uninhabited islands. This makes it the only place in the country where a tourist can wander off, or more usually cycle off, to explore other islands, meet Maldivians on their own turf and generally get a feel for the country’s real life.

An air hostess interacted with each scenario, though she didn’t always look a natural fit in her floor-length bright blue uniform. The design was a dhigu hedhun, which is a national costume introduced in the fifties and now worn mostly for official or ceremonial occasions.

Having said that, most tourists go there because it is one of the cheapest resorts in the country and the diving is still some of the best. If coral bleaching occurred there (up for argument), the reefs quickly recovered and the caves of soft corals and coral gardens are stunning. Being on the very edge of the archipelago, the great

EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, WITH THE RIGHT VISION AND COMMITMENT. JUST LIKE THIS AIRLINE, GOING FROM AIR MALDIVES TO MALDIVIAN. Unlike today there were no resorts anywhere near any of the regional airports. Those were to come some fifteen years later, with one exception. In 1995 Ocean Reef opened on Gan, just near the airport. The resort emerged from what was originally the Royal Air Force’s sergeants’ mess and then it’s camp for transit stops. The British Royal Air Force and the Royal Navy had been running Gan since 1941 and finally handed it back to the Maldives government in 1976. The resort’s 78 rooms in six blocks are the very buildings that were built and used in those times. They have been successfully converted into bright, clean, simple and fairly large double rooms. The reception, restaurant and bar building was purpose built in a slightly formal, chintzy and gleaming tiles look. Behind this, the centrepiece swimming pool curves around a verdant island and a swim-up bar. With

pelagics are all there in numbers, from sharks to mantas, tunas to whales. A major bonus is the 140 metre long cargo ship, ‘British Loyalty’, which was torpedoed by the Japanese in 1944. Ocean Reef became Equator Village but remained the same as, indeed, it still is today. It is actually one of the only resorts in the country that hasn’t changed. It’s isolation at the southern tip of the country has meant it had to more or less remain an inexpensive all-inclusive resort for undemanding guests. But now that ShangriLa and Herathera are neighbours and other resorts and city hotels are planned, and now the airport has been upgraded to international standard, Equator Village might well start to evolve into a more modern and exciting place to stay.

VARA 01

And talking of evolving, one of the finest resorts in the country today has evolved from one of the grungiest. I can say that now that Hudhuveli doesn’t exist anymore, but actually I didn’t hold back much when I wrote it up in the first edition of Resorts of the Maldives. My first paragraph read ‘Hudhuveli is a small, laid back resort with the advantage of being close to the airport. In truth, it doesn’t have many other advantages.’ Laid back, in this context, actually meant ‘I hope you’re good at entertaining and looking after yourself because staff are not really up to the task’. The lagoon was so large and shallow there was no snorkeling from the beach, many of the rooms had no beach, the room interiors were dull to ugly and ‘The meals’, I wrote, ‘are all set and can only be described as ordinary’.

5 6

When Sonu of Soneva Fushi took the island I thought he had made a bad mistake. But he proceeded to turn it into Soneva Gili, which, after its first full year of operation won Tatler’s Hotel of the Year and Gallivanter’s Guide Editor’s Choice. Every year since it has garnered award after award for the overall package or separately for its rooms, facilities, spa and wine list. The brilliant concept was to simply ignore the island and build some of the most wonderful water bungalows in the world. A series of rooms, decks, landings and rooftops seem to emerge from each other. Some spaces are under thatch, some under open sky, some open to the water below and some can be enclosed for air-conditioning. The wooden boards and pillars come unadorned, the thatch is not concealed, the wooden furniture is handmade, the cotton covers are in single earthy or sunny colours. At the same time, every luxury of an exclusive resort is incorporated. Living in and looking out from these rooms raises your spirits and eases your mind.

The island has been improved by dismantling the beach walls and groynes, broadening the island and its beaches and

VARA 01

planting varied trees and shrubs. It even has an organic fruit, vegetable and herb garden, something that was thought to be more or less impossible because of the shallow sandy soil. The meals are light and fresh in the overwater buffet, or, in the specialty restaurant, rich, exotic and delicious. An extraordinary cellar invites you down to taste the wines, cheeses, charcuterie and hand-made chocolate. With that change - from Hudhuveli to Soneva Gili - I realise that everything is possible, with the right vision and commitment. Just like this airline, going from Air Maldives to Maldivian

7 8

Adrian Neville lived in the Maldives and writes the definitive guide book: Resorts of Maldives, now in its third edition. Having tirelessly reviewed every single resort, he is now continually asked â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;which is the best for me?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Enter SevenHolidays.com â&#x20AC;&#x201C; his comprehensive independent guide to Maldives holidays and how to book them. Photos 1-3: Air Maldives 1994 Calendar shots Photos 4-6: Hudhuveli Island Resort Photos 7-8: Soneva Gili Photos courtesy of Adrian Neville

VARA 01

Luxury Seaplane Travel

Guest transfers by Luxury Seaplane for

in the Maldives From humble beginnings back in 1993, Maldivian Air Taxi has grown to become one of the largest and most respected seaplane operators in the world today. From the company’s base on the northern side of Male’ International Airport, the distinctly coloured red, white and green Twin Otters take to the air daily, flying passengers to and from some of the most far flung and idyllic resorts that the azure coloured waters of the Maldives has to offer. Servicing 44-resorts – nearly half of all resorts in the Maldives – Maldivian Air Taxi relies on a fleet of 20 Twin Otter aircraft, a roster of nearly 80 pilots, a state-of-the art maintenance facility and countless logistical staff, to ensure a seamless experience for transiting holiday goers. For passengers looking for the last word in luxury seaplane travel, look no further than the 3 custom designed VIP Twin Otter aircraft in the MAT fleet.

Cabin Interior of Luxury Seaplane of Maldivian Air Taxi

and Soneva Fushi by Six Senses has to offer, with a flight to Soneva Fushi Resort in Baa Atoll for a magazine client. With a 6 foot 2 inch frame, the first thing I noticed entering the VIP aircraft is the sheer space and decadent interior fit out – it was as if I was entering a private jet. Like a private jet, the seating arrangement exudes comfort and space. The plush leather seats are further apart, wider and taller and include little details such as arm rests that you never really notice until you don’t have one. The big feature of the seats is the reclining function – a blessing for passengers wanting to tune out and get some rest before arriving at their resort.

The luxury configuration of 10 seats makes a big difference in terms of personal space. With fewer passengers, the plane loads faster and leaves sooner. If you travel as much as While the features of the VIP Twin I do in a year, then less waiting time Otter’s makes for impressive reading has to be the holy grail of airline travel. – 50 percent more leg room courtesy of the 10 seat configuration (instead By the time our plane has lifted off of the normal 19); comfortable the turquoise waters of our ocean leather seats; large fold out tables runway, I have my Bose headsets on and noise cancelling Bose headsets listening to local music from popular accompanied with sleek iPods given to local artists and am mindlessly gazing you inflight with specially selected local out the window at the world-class music, which can also be connected scenery below. Our friendly Maldivian to your iPod – it is the experience that crewmember wanders through the really counts. And that is where I come cabin providing refreshing towelettes, in. fresh juices and tasty snacks for the duration of the flight. While most As a former two-year resident of the passengers watch the incredible atoll Maldives, I have flown on more MAT formations slip below beneath us, Twin Otters than I care to remember some people exhausted from their for photo assignment work. I was long haul flights, stretch out on the fortunate to experience first hand the sofa seating to catch up on some level of service and luxury that MAT much-needed rest.

VARA 01

After my return flight the following day, I sit down to try and figure out which one thing made the VIP service so good. I quickly realise that it wasn’t just any one thing. Instead it was the culmination of all the little things – 50 percent more leg room, bigger reclining seats, greater comfort, stylish noise cancelling headsets with iPods, faster passenger loading times, more luggage space and an in-flight service – that really made the flight. The great news for guests travelling to Soneva Fushi Resort or Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru Resort, is that both of these resorts have dedicated VIP planes. Both aircraft are easy to spot - the Soneva Fushi Twin Otter is all white except for a stylish green stripe that runs the length of the plane. The Four Seasons Twin Otter sports a stylish gold band running the length of the fuselage. Both planes stand out at the floating docks and make for great photos opportunities. For guests not travelling to Soneva Fushi or Landaa Giraavaru resorts, all three VIP Twin Otters are available for private charter, to / from any Island or Resort in the Maldives. Whether you are transiting to Soneva Fushi Resort, Landaa Giraavaru Resort or chartering a VIP aircraft to take you direct to a resort of your choice, rest assured that you will be experiencing the best luxury seaplane experience that the Maldives has to offer. We invite you to book your private seaplane transfer by simply sending us an e-mail to info@maldivianairtaxi. com or visit our website www. maldivianairtaxi.com for more information.

VARA 01

THE WELCOME COURTESY AND EFFICIENCY OF ALILA VILLAS HADAHAA EMBRACES GUESTS BEFORE THEY EVEN GET TO THE RESORT, DISCOVERS ROYSTON ELLIS

ALILA VILLAS HADAHAA:

ECO-LUXURY REDEFINED

VARA 01

was ready to check in for my flight with Maldivian at the domestic terminal at Male’ International Airport when I realised I didn’t have a ticket. “Don’t worry,” said the Alila Villas Hadahaa representative, “I am your ticket!” He took command of the situation with confidence and authority, and within minutes I was ensconced in the VIP lounge awaiting my flight to the southern airport of Kaadedhdhoo. The flight passed quickly thanks to the charming inflight stewardesses who managed to distribute face towels in sachets, coffee/tea and cake, as well as newspapers and even earplugs on request, during the 55-minute hop. An Alila Villas Hadahaa representative greeted me on arrival and took care of baggage reclaim while a young man dressed in the flowing ocean-blue slacks that are part of the distinctive uniform of the Alila Villas Hadahaa team, briefed me about the boat journey and the resort. Alila Villas Hadahaa is just over an hour’s speedboat ride eastwards across Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll (North Huvadhoo), believed to be the largest and deepest natural atoll in the world. The Equator, and southern hemisphere, is just 56 km away. Alila Villas was not only the first resort to be built in the atoll; it is the first resort ever in the Maldives to be awarded the prestigious Green Globe certification for “Building, Planning and Design Standard.” What this means is that at the construction stage, tremendous care was taken to preserve the existing, ancient vegetation in order to maintain the natural ambience of the island. This does not mean the structures are twee, thatched timber eco-cottages furnished like jungle huts. In fact the villas are solid, contemporary buildings of terrazzo walls and floors, surrounded by sun-bleached timber decks.

The aim seems to be to give guests used to a city environment comfortable, efficiently functioning villas, whether on the island or overwater, where they can relax without

VARA 01

feeling they have gone too far back to nature. The jungle vegetation, including coconut palms leaning towards the lagoon, gives each villa enviable seclusion. The island is billed as a lifestyle boutique resort, reflecting the environmental concerns of the responsible traveller. It measures 300m by 420m and has lots of sandy paths through the interior, With only 20 percent of the island being utilised for construction, it seems much larger. There are 36 island villas, 20 of which have a beachside private plunge pool, and 14 stilted over-the-water villas. My island villa, typical of all of them, had a bathroom as big as the bedroom. Entrance was by door from the side deck into a bright room with roof to ceiling windows (with sliding screens for privacy), gleaming terrazzo floors, timber ceilings and black painted fitted drawers and cupboards. With flat screen TV, music centre, minibar, kettle and espresso machine (in the bathroom) all necessary city hotel accoutrements were on parade. The bathroom has a glass walled shower and separate toilet cubicle, with his and her wardrobes and hand basins (with special herbal toiletries made of pure plant botanicals). In a walled garden open to the sky, is a granite bathtub and a rainwater shower. There are full-length walls of mirrors both inside and outside the bathroom, adding reflected light as well as unexpected glimpses of oneself. The Aqua Villas, reached by a curving wooden jetty, are of similar design but with a layout â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and wooden screens - that ensure absolute privacy. Each one has been carefully placed over the coral so as not to cause disruption to the glorious beauty of the lagoon. Steps lead down to the water. Each one is equipped so that guests, if they have room service (available 24 hours a day), need never leave the privacy of their villa except to snorkel lazily around the lagoon. Complimentary Wifi connectivity is available in each villa. Guests are sent a personal preference menu in advance of their arrival so they can indicate their desires. This enables

VARA 01

The island’s layout means that villas are never far from the central area. This is like a village square whose centrepiece is an irresistible swimming pool beside the sea. The ocean element is emphasised by the reception pavilion handcrafted by a village boat builder to resemble a huge upturned dhoni (island vessel). The interior roof of wooden beams and planks gives a chance to appreciate the ingenuity and skill of the master boat builder.

ALILA VILLAS WAS NOT ONLY THE FIRST RESORT TO BE BUILT IN THE ATOLL; IT IS THE FIRST RESORT EVER IN THE MALDIVES TO BE AWARDED THE PRESTIGIOUS GREEN GLOBE CERTIFICATION FOR “BUILDING, PLANNING AND DESIGN STANDARD.”

the service they require to be categorised as Private (no disturbance at all), Eco-Friendly (appreciation of natural sustainability), Indulgence and Discreet. Each villa has a dedicated host who makes sure guests have exactly what they want, when they want. He also drives a batteryoperated buggy for when guests don’t want to walk.

VARA 01

The main restaurant and bar form two sides of the island’s social centre. The bar is designed for daytime relaxation (and for cigars after dinner too) and features a range of unusual and organic cocktails as well as especially selected wines. Even water (still or sparkling) is served in recyclable bottles to reduce the use of plastic. In the main restaurant, meals (including breakfast) are from an a la Carte menu (no competitive buffet dining at Alila Villas) with the addition of a degustation menu that varies every night. The dinner I had was exquisite, beautifully presented and with an explanation by the young, expert Executive Chef of the niceties of each course. Another pavilion is known as Battuta’s and claims to be the only international restaurant in the world devoted to Maldivian cuisine, with dishes such as Falhoa satani (papaya, onion and chilli salad) and the scrumptious boakibaa baked tuna cake. Afternoon tea with Maldivian snacks is also served there. A short walk away, but seemingly deep in the jungle, is an oasis within the island, in this case the award-winning Spa Village. There are five thatched roofed spa pavilions, each one with facilities for couples who can enjoy a range of massages and spa treatments, or a special three-day programme. There is a second swimming pool for guests in the Spa Village. As well as its attention to environmental issues, Alila Villas encourages guests to experience the social environment of the Maldives with special lecture and leisure programmes. These include trips to local islands where villagers are delighted to welcome visitors, as well as a cruise

to Gahdhoo to see the ancient craft of map weaving from locally grown grass. These mats, with distinctive design and colouring, are known as Thunda Kuna and make a unique souvenir. Other expeditions include learning about celestial navigation, dolphin spotting, and the rare chance of swimming at the Equator, commemorated with a celebratory glass of champagne. Alila Villas Hadahaa has a heart and soul that is Maldivian. Over 65 percent of the staff are Maldivian, some from the southern atolls. The staff have modern accommodation with free WiFi access, and their happiness and efficient charm when dealing with guests, adds to the pleasurable experience of staying there. One receptionist told me he likes the island so much, he doesn’t want to go home. That’s the sentiment of many of the guests too. Within a year of its opening in August 2009, the resort had registered nearly 20 repeat guests from overseas. The guest mix itself is appropriately cosmopolitan for such a responsible, eco-aware resort. When I stayed there, fellow guests came from Britain, Germany, Korea, Russia, Spain, Greece and Singapore. The general manager and his assistant were from Australia, the brilliant food and beverage manager was Greek and the young and very talented chef was German. “We are a young team for a young resort,” the general manager told me. The enthusiasm with which his team, both foreigners and Maldivians, work together, gives Alila Villas Hadahaa, an enviable, welcoming hospitality that makes a holiday there in its self-sustainable environment, both memorable and fulfilling. Royston Ellis is a British-born novelist and travel writer based in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives for over 25 years. He is the author of A Hero In Time, a novel based on the life of Mohamed Takurufaan, the 16th century national hero of the Maldives. He writes regularly for in-flight magazines and international publications, and is the author of the Berlitz, Bradt and Insight guidebooks about the Maldives. Photos by: Alila Hotels & Resorts

VARA 01

IT IS AN ISLAND AND AN ATOLL, WITH A DISTINCTIVE DIALECT OF DHIVEHI. FUVAMULAH STANDS OUT AMONG THE MORE THAN THOUSAND CORAL ISLANDS FOR MORE THAN JUST ITS SIZE AS AISHATH SHAZRA DISCOVERS ON HER JOURNEY TO THE SOUTH.

UNIQUELY

FUVAHMULAH

VARA 01

s the speedboat glides its way into the harbour after a choppy ride, I realize how lucky we are to make this journey. Fuvamulah is not an easy island to get to. Violent swells and crashing waves, and the absence of a lagoon of calm water which normally encircles Maldivian islands, made Fuvamulah virtually inaccessible in times past. Located in relative isolation in the southern tip of the Maldives, it had been visited only by the most intrepid travelers. Before the building of the harbour in 2003, people had to jump into a bokkura (small boat) from their ferry and be rowed to the shore. The high swells and currents made this a perilous affair. During the inauguration of the harbour, a minute of silence was observed for those who lost their lives attempting to reach the island.

Even today, in rough weather the speedboat

VARA 01

ride from the neighbouring Addu atoll is not for the faint hearted. But it is a trip worth making. One of the most unique islands of Maldives, Fuvamulah is considered both an island and an atoll. At 4.5 km in length and at 1.2 km in width, it is the third largest island in the Maldives. As we reach the shore, my group of weary travelers piles into the back of a pickup truck and takes a fifteen-minute scenic ride to our lodgings. Ducking every now and then to avoid overhanging branches of mango, pumpkin and palm trees, a consistent feature of Fuvamulah, we pass by fields of cucumber, tomato, carrot, cabbage, pepper, capsicum, eggplant and okra. If not for the frequent sighting of the beach, the fields of crops could easily make you think you are in Sri Lanka or rural India. Trees grow in abundance here and the fertile soil makes farming a lucrative trade for many of the island’s 10,000 residents.

We arrive at our friend’s house in Funadu, Fuvamulah’s southernmost village. The courtyard of the house is impeccable; the traditional floor made of smooth white pebbles. The islanders take great pride in keeping their houses neat and tidy. Twice a year, sacks of pebbles from the northern most beach are brought and spread on the courtyard of houses. The five room house is huge compared to houses in Male’, the Maldivian capital and the world’s most crowded capital city. The kitchen is spacious with modern utensils, though an open area that juts out to the backyard gives the place a traditional feel. The outdoor area is fitted with a joali (a traditional Maldivian woven seat) and a sink for cutting fish. Coconut scrapping and all the pre-preparation of cooking takes place here. Throughout our stay, women saunter over for a chat or to help prepare meals, making this a convivial place.

The backyard is big enough to easily accommodate an entire Male’ apartment block. A mango tree laden with fruits takes pride of place, while chili, lemon, bean plants and palm trees grow here and there, with a cluster of banana trees. The owner of the house, Haleema Easa, also burns up combustible garbage in one area and composts food items in another. ‘Eco’ is already a feature of living here. Haleema’s four grown up children reside in the capital. Having left this idyllic setting for higher studies and job opportunities, they got married set up businesses there and now visit the island for holidays like most other Fuvamulah youth. After a scrumptious tea of short eats, we head to the thundi, (dhivehi for ‘beach’) at the northern most point of Fuvamulah. In a country where most islands are barely one meter above sea level, Fuvamulah is

at an impressive 3 meters. This gives birth to the spectacular beach. Our transport expertly navigates its way through thick palm trees and foliage to the edge of the beach. We climb down and make our way to the beach. It’s a breathtaking scene, the setting sun has cast a warm glow, the tall palm trees sway gently at the edge, and the beach stretches out endlessly. Along with the tiny white sand grains common to Maldivian beaches, here we also find smooth white round pebbles, often taken home in the past by visitors as a souvenir. The relentless crashing of the waves stands in sharp contrast to the tranquility of the moment. Everyone reaches for their cameras trying to capture the beauty of the scene.

DAY TWO The next morning we start the day with a traditional breakfast of Roshi and Mashuni (Maldivian bread and tuna mix). Haleema tells us that it was only in the 60’s that islanders in Fuvamulah learnt about Roshi and started eating it like the rest of the country. Before that, due to its relative isolation, Fuvamulah had a unique breakfast of their own, consisting of boiled Ala (yams/taro) a staple of their diet. With our packed lunches we head over to the thundi for a picnic. At the thundi, it’s a complete different scene to the tranquility of the evening. The locals are out in force, enjoying the natural beauty of this homeland. Groups of people, frolic around picnicking. The vastness of the beach ensures that each group gets its own space and privacy. Locals use fallen palm

VARA 01

leaves, to make impromptu shelters. The women sit around catching up on the latest gossips, keeping an eye on the children playing nearby.

THE ISLAND

Armed with inflatable plastic beds, we try our hand at a makeshift form of surfing. This is not a place for swimming as the waves crash straight onto the beach. But for thrashing around in the waves, this place is hard to beat.

RESORTS, JUST

Thundi is renowned as the most stunning location at Fuvamulah, and you need to set aside at least one day just to enjoy the place. It is also the location for most community gatherings and events like Maahefun (special feast to welcome Ramazan) where people from all the districts get together for a meal.

OF TRADITIONAL

DOESN’T HAVE ANY 5 STAR HOTELS OR A FEW MODEST GUESTHOUSES, BUT FOR A TASTE MALDIVIAN LIFE, FUVAMULAH IS THE PICK OF THE LOT.

DAY THREE The following day we get up early, to explore the island. Our friends have begged, borrowed and stolen enough scooters for our group, the common mode of transport in the island. We ride over to see the phenomenon of kalho akiri (black pebbles). The pebbles that wash up on the south east shore of the island is black in colour, a rare sight in the Maldives. Weaving our way through the thick foliage at the edge of the island, we go out to the beach via narrow pathways. A local guide is very useful for an exploration trip. Fuvamulah is one of the few islands in the Maldives where is it possible to get lost. We head back in time to accompany Haleema to her taro field. For a fun and authentic experience, try your hand at harvesting taro. Passing by fields of banana trees, we come to what looks like swamp: a huge taro field. Haleema explains that the fields are owned by different people and those fruit trees that grow in the marshland here and there actually mark the fields.

We wade into the muddy area, the water rises to our ankles, and our feet seem to be getting sucked into the ground. Haleema

VARA 01

shows us how to pull the taro plants: cut the taro from its root and throw it to the bank and plant the tree in the mud again. A knife is our only tool. Amid much laughter and cries of ‘yuck’ each of us tries cutting a taro. We wash our hands and feet at a nearby well and head over to Bandaara Kilhi the southern and biggest of the two lakes found in the island. We skirt around taro fields and make our way through marshlands and wild foliage before reaching the bank of the lake. The tranquility hits you first. Smooth water without a ripple and trees and wild foliage at the banks, the lake is big and unlike any place seen in Maldives. We take turns floating with our rubber airbeds. Floating here has a dream like quality to it, the only sound you hear that of birds.

DAY FOUR The next day we hire cars for a cultural tour. First stop is to see the Vashu-veyo, an ancient circular bath with stone steps, inlaid with coral carvings. Next on our tour is a visit to the oldest mosque in Fuvamulah, Gemmiskiy. A small coral stone mosque still in use, with

a neat compound, its said that the water from the four corners of the well taste different. We test the theory, the water is tasty enough, but one can’t really taste the difference. We also make time for one of the most curious attractions of Fuvamulah. A misogynistic cockerel, whose claim to fame is that it chases any woman it sees. No matter how close a man stands, the cock ignores him completely but will give chase to any female in sight. Amid shrieks and laughter the female members of our group are chased, with one unfortunate soul getting pecked on her legs. A spot in a TV programme a year ago had made the cockerel famous and from near and far people come to visit the chauvinistic bird. We finish the day with a visit to Havitha. It seems like nothing exceptional, a sand mound of about 20 feet. But stand atop it with a local and you will be regaled with stories of the Buddhist stupa found underneath the mound. Havitha is a relic from the Maldives Buddhist past, before the introduction of Islam towards the end of the 12th century. At sunset we head home for our departure the next day. We walk away feeling that there is still more stories to hear and more places to see. Fuvamulah is unlike no other island in the archipelago, blessed with natural beauty and diversity, as well remnants of the Maldives’ rich cultural past. The island doesn’t have any 5 star hotels or resorts, just a few modest guesthouses, but for a taste of traditional Maldivian life, Fuvamulah is the pick of the lot.

WHERE TO STAY Vaadeege (775 3160) a 15 room guest house located in Dhoondigan village. The village located in the southerneast corner of the island, houses the harbour and a number of historical landmarks like the Vashu-veyo. To arrange home stays contact Mohamed Luthfee (762 9956)

HOW TO GET THERE Maldivian has five flights daily from Male’ to Addu Atoll, Gan. Once you arrive at Gan airport, hail a taxi from the waiting queue outside and ask them to take you to the Fuvamulah speedboat departure point. A speedboat ride of 45 minutes from Feydhoo (island adjoining Gan) is your transport to Fuvamulah. Book your speedboat ride to Fuvamulah either with Niraz Travel (334 5644) or MVK Travels (300 0808) before you fly to Addu Atoll, Gan. You could also buy your Maldivian flight tickets along with your speedboat transfers from these travel agencies.

Aishath Shazra is a freelance writer based in Male’. Photos by: Ahmed Zahid

VARA 01

THOUSANDS OF TRAVELERS VISIT MALDIVES EACH YEAR AND LEAVE WITHOUT GETTING A CHANCE TO TASTE A TRADITIONAL MALDIVIAN MEAL. NABY MARIYAM EXPLAINS HOW DISTINCT THE LOCAL CUISINE IS AND TAKES THE READERS ON A TOUR OF MALDIVIAN FOOD.

FLAVOURS OF MALDIVES O

ver six hundred thousand people visit the Maldives every year. Tourists flock to this Indian Ocean paradise to lie on beautiful beaches, dive among breathtaking coral reefs or splash about in the azure lagoon waters in some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most luxurious hotels. Food plays an important part of any holiday experience and some Maldivian resorts boast restaurants as good as any that can be found in London, New York or Paris.

In most resorts, it is common scene to find a buffet of French pastry, Italian breads and classical and modern takes on food from

VARA 01

all over the world. It is normal for a meal to be accompanied with a wide array of international wines and foreign cheeses. What is less common to visitors, however, is the chance to taste a traditional Maldivian meal. Maldivian food is often confused for neighbouring Indian or Sri Lankan cuisine. Although Maldivian food is influenced by Sri Lankan and south Indian tastes, it has a distinct and unmistakable identity.

VARA 01

MALDIVES BEING 99%

WHAT IS MALDIVIAN FOOD ANYWAY?

OCEAN, THE CATCH FROM SEA IS THE

The Maldives is 99% ocean. It is no surprise that fish dominates any local menu. Cooked in various ways; different varieties of Tuna, Trevally, Snapper, and Scads often appear on any Maldivian table. Freshly caught fish, cooked on the same day, is what makes Maldivian dishes so special. Fish is usually made into a variation of a curry or Garudhiya, a fish soup cooked with tuna. Garudhiya is consumed with rice and accompanying condiments such as, Spanish onion, fresh lime, smoked tuna chunks, and Githeyo Mirus – a fiery chilli that could leave you in tears and gasping for air if not consumed carefully!

ESSENCE OF THE CUISINE. COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS;

2 3

Garudhiya is cooked for over 10 hours until a thick, velvety glaze known as Rihakuru is formed – a Maldivian version of meat glaze or gravy. This is a core ingredient in local cooking; any kitchen will be incomplete without the finest bottle of Rihakuru.

HOMEMADE SPICES

Tuna is the mainstay of Maldivian cuisine, but other tropical ingredients are also regularly used, including banana flower, drumstick leaves, eggplant, gourds and pumpkin. These locally produced vegetables are cooked with freshly made curry paste or powders. Maldives’ unique geography makes procuring local ingredients difficult: fruits are often imported from Thailand and India; meat is mainly sourced from Australia; rice from Burma; and cheeses from Italy and France.

Photos by: Ahmed Zahid / Mohamed Shahid / Martin Whiteley

In Maldivian cooking, vegetables can be sautéed or mixed with either smoked tuna and grated coconut with lime and chilli.

Photo 1: Preparation of local spices Photo 2: Smoked Tuna Photo 3: Reef fish grilling Photo 4: Frying short-eats Photos 5: Fish dishes Photo 6: Maldivian short-eats (left to right: Gulha, Foniboakibaa, and a mix of boiled breadfruit and sweet potato

Apart from the curry is the most common dish, which ranges from yellow to red to a dark brownish spice colour. Flavours are uniquely blended to create a spice extravaganza. The spices are roasted gently

VARA 01

in a pan – giving off a wonderful aroma before other ingredients are added. This is the soul of any curry. The combinations are passed down from generations and held within a family.

GULHA, BAJIYA OR CUTLUS? Snack culture is another mainstay of Maldivian cuisine. When locals meet up for a chat over coffee, a plate of ‘short-eats’ -cocktail style finger food - is normally on the table. Hedhika, the Maldivian name for short-eats, come in a variety of savoury and sweet are a must try for everyone. There are dozens of short-eats, some of the most common are Cutlus, Gulha , bajiya or boakiba. Most cafes around town serve these little delicacies through out the day. These little short eats are mainly a mix of tuna, coconut, lemon, chilli and spices bound together and wrapped in a pastry and or coated in bread crumbs. It can either be baked or deep fried.

ROSHI Most locals will remember fondly waking up to the sound of the rolling pin and the smell of freshly baked Roshi. Roshi, a local flat bread similar to Indian Rumali Roti, is a must try for visitors to the Maldives. Roshi’s versatility makes it the single most popular dish among locals. It is often consumed with Mashhuni, a mix of freshly scraped coconut and smoked tuna mixed with local flavourings - a match made in heaven. Visit a local island to experience this wonderful experience of food and be surprised. Is one day enough to taste all these foods? Why not add an extra day to your holiday to experience the local food culture? Naby Mariyam is a Le cordon Bleu trained chef who has worked in various fields in the hospitality industry and trained chefs both in the Maldives and Australia. She currently works in Australia in Higher Education, Business Hospitality and Tourism.

VARA 01

LONG BEACHES, COCONUT GROVES AND TRADITIONAL KERALA ARCHITECTURE WITH A VICTORIAN TOUCH DEFINE THE CITYSCAPES OF TRIVANDRUM. ARUN BHAT DISCOVERS THAT THE SEASIDE CITY IS IN LOVE WITH ITS TRADITIONS AND TAKES PRIDE IN ITS HERITAGE.

TRIVANDRUM

UNCOVERED

VARA 01

esides the ubiquitous signs that welcome every visitor to the “God’s Own Country,” at first sight, it would be hard to set Trivandrum apart from any other Indian city. The signs of God’s country begin to show, however, when you leave the city’s central artery, MG Road, for the tranquility of its suburbs. Slip into the smaller streets and the city morphs into a quiet old place, more like a village with houses with spacious gardens, tall coconut trees and shaded empty roads; a charming, leafy seaside town. Even MG Road, dominated by large facades of glass and glitter has a touch of old: charming brick buildings that defy the new order. Driving through the busy traffic, the red facades of the college of fine arts and the public library, with their gothic arches and tall windows, provide a glimpse of Trivandrum’s past. These buildings are but a small reflection of a number of old structures spread across the city, with a mix of Victorian styles and the ancient Kerala architecture. Napier Museum, more than 150 years old , excels in grandeur and beauty. The two, story building is a deep hue of red and light pink. Flanked by the blue skies and lush green grass, the museum is a riot of colour. It houses a collection of archaeological artifacts including bronze idols, carvings of ivory and a temple chariot.

Trivandrum’s largest historical structure is the centerpiece Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Rebuilt in the 18th century, the temple is flanked by the calm Padmatheertham Tank, whose waters reflect the temple’s seven-storey entrance tower. The noise of the city never penetrates into the peaceful temple enclosure, which is dominated by a long circular path of granite pillars. The temple contains a smaller shrine with fine, Kerala woodcarvings of the Hindu Pantheon. Wooden carvings are used in many of Kerala’s old buildings, including the city’s majestic Kuthiramalika Palace. The Kuthiramalika palace, which means Mansion of horses, derives its name from 122 horses, carved into the palace’s wooden façade. Built in 1840s by the king of Travancore, the palace had remained closed for more than a century after his demise. It was recently opened to the public museum and houses the former royal family’s artifacts. The hallways of the palace are decorated with drooping chandeliers made of Belgian crystals. The king thrones are displayed, one made from the tusks of 22 elephants and another made completely from crystal. Trivandrum’s connection to the past goes beyond its monuments and architecture. Not far from Kuthiramalika palace, the

WOODEN CARVINGS ARE USED IN MANY OF KERALA’S OLD BUILDINGS, INCLUDING THE CITY’S MAJESTIC KUTHIRAMALIKA PALACE. TRIVANDRUM’S CONNECTION TO THE PAST GOES BEYOND ITS MONUMENTS AND ARCHITECTURE.

VARA 01

Kalari Institute teaches Kalaripayattu, an ancient martial art using sticks, knives and daggers. The students practice every morning under the expert guidance of a master. The training starts with slow and practiced moves that quickly gather pace as fighters lock sticks in swift movements. Any error in judgment can leave fighters seriously injured.

not just a means of medication, but it’s a system that governs everyday food habits and lifestyle. I get to see that in Pathayam, a small airy restaurant run by CV Gangadharan, which serves holistic food carefully prepared based on traditional methods by using organically grown ingredients.

juice, a mildly spiced soup and a mix of buttermilk and lime. I expect the food to be bland as health foods often are, but it is delicious. Gangadharan’s commitment to serve healthy food to his guests is evident from signs plastered along the walls of the restaurant. ‘Diet cures more than doctor,’ reads one. A sign saying ‘pharmacy’ hangs above the kitchen.

Injured are treated using ancient Ayurvedic medicines, from an onsite clinic. The ancient tradition of Ayurveda medicine is

My meal at Pathayam started with a bowl of fruit salad, followed by the main course that begins with gooseberry

I saw another version of health food at the plush Somatheeram resort where I dined under the moonlit sky, listening

VARA 01

to the sound of the waves. The resident doctors at this ‘Ayurveda Resort’ examine the pulse of the guests and recommend a diet that helps remove imbalances in the body. Each dish in the restaurant’s large buffet spread is labeled ‘Vatha’, ‘Pitha’ or ‘Kapha,’ the three constitutions of body according to Ayurvedic tradition. That evening I listened to a musician playing the flute and watched the moon rise over the palm trees.

Next day I left the tranquility of Somatheeram resort for nearby Kovalam beach. The beach hosts a long line of restaurants serving freshly caught seafood and beer. I opted for ginger-lemon tea with honey at the Malabar Café and watched the sunset over the crashing waves. I returned to Trivandrum and walked along one of the busy streets. I noticed a small sign listing out places of interest near the city, which confidently stated, ‘You have come to the right place.’ The sign summed up my feelings towards Trivandrum. 6

WHERE TO STAY Leela Kovalam Resort (+91 47 1305 1234, www.theleela. com/) spread across a hill next to Koavalam Beach is an ideal place if you want to stay close to the beach. Somatheeram Ayurvedic Resort (+91-471-2268101, w w w. s o m a t h e e ra m . i n ) , located on a slope facing the sea, offers Ayurvedic treatments to residents. Several budget hotels line the Manjalikulam Road near the city railway station. HOW TO REACH Maldivian has double daily flights connecting Male’ with Trivandram. The best time to go is between October and December when the weather is pleasant through the day. Avoid the rainy months from June to September.

Arun Bhat is a photographer and travel writer based in India. Photo 1: Padmanabhaswamy Temple Photo 2-3: Kuthiramalika Palace Museum Photo 4-5: Street Food at Kovalam Beach Photo 6: Napier Museum Photos by: Arun Bhat

VARA 01

PART OF A LARGE VOLCANIC MOUNTAIN RANGE MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO, THE MALDIVES HAS BECOME ONE OF THE TOP DIVING DESTINATIONS WORLDWIDE OVER THE PAST FEW DECADES. SHAAHINA ALI EXPLORES WHAT BEGINNERS CAN EXPECT TO SEE IN THIS UNIQUE UNDERWATER WONDERLAND.

AN INTRODUCTION TO

DIV ING

IN MALDIVES

VARA 01

een from the air, the Maldives looks the picture of paradise: desert islands of swaying palms, surrounded by pristine white beaches and azure lagoons. Less visible from above, however, are the islands’ coral reefs, which attract divers from around the world. The Maldives is counted among the world’s best dive destinations. The beautiful underwater world, and the sheer variety of dive sites, beckons novices and experts alike. Maldivian reefs are home to an abundance of hard and soft corals and marine life: sharks, rays, turtles, eels and thousands of varieties of tropical fish are common Maldivian sights. Whale sharks and manta rays can also be spotted throughout the year. From July to mid-November, these gentle giants of the sea congregate at Hanifaru Bay, a popular dive sight in Baa atoll, in the north of the Maldives. In December and January, the best place to spot Whale sharks and manta rays is at Maamagilli, a small strip of sea in Ari atoll, to the East of the country. Maldives offers a variety of dives, ranging from normal house reef dives to more challenging channel dives. Divers can also explore a ‘Thila’ dive site. A Thila is a small reef that comes up from the bottom of the atoll, close to the surface of the water. The most thrilling about Thila dive sites are the sheer abundance and variety of fish and marine life. Thilas are also popular cleaning stations for eels and big fish like groupers and the Napoleon wrasse. These are easy dives during Slack tide, however the currents can be very strong during tide changes. It is strongly advised to do Thila dives with a professional dive guide familiar with local dive sites.

The Maldives is also a popular place for drift dives. The country’s unique reef formations can create particularly strong currents and drift dives can sometimes feel like riding an express train, passing sharks, jacks, schools of tuna, barracudas, sail fish, schools of snapper and eagle rays. Underwater visibility in Maldives is exceptionally good, making these dives an unforgettable experience.

VARA 01

2 3

4 5

VARA 01

It’s a good idea to check the location of your resort and its nearby dive sites. While every Maldivian resort has its own dive center that offers courses from beginners to advanced, not every resort will offer specialist dives, for instance to shipwrecks.

SCUBA DIVING REGULATIONS IN MALDIVES •

To SCUBA Dive in the Maldives one has to be certified and should have proof of certification. All recognized certification organizations such as PADI, CMAS, NAUI, SSI, and many others are recognized.

•

Diving is limited to the level of certification and to a maximum depth of 30 meters. No decompression diving is allowed in the Maldives.

•

All SCUBA Divers must use equipment limited to a minimum of a BCD (Bouyancy Control Device), a Regulator with an Octopus, a pressure gauge, a depth gauge and a timer.

•

All SCUBA tanks must be pressure tested every 2 years.

Each and every dive in the Maldives is exciting. You are guaranteed to see abundant fish life: batfish, clown fish, snappers, sweet lips, puffer fish, sharks, eels, rays are commonly sighted.

•

It is recommended that all divers are briefed and receive general orientation under professional guidance. Your Dive guides will do a briefing on each dive at the dive site.

•

All Divers must have a buddy while diving. prohibited.

But you don’t have to be a certified diver to experience the Maldives underwater bounty. Much of the breathtaking underwater world can be seen from the top of the ocean with the humble fins, mask and snorkel.

•

Diving in Maldives is mostly done by boats and not anchored.

•

Divers must have a surface marker balloon that they can inflate upon surfacing from a dive.

•

The Divers are strongly advised to follow a safe profile of descend and ascend and to stop between 3-5 meters for at least 5 minutes.

•

All dive boats must have Oxygen on board. (Diving accidents are rare, however, in case of any discomfort or diving incident the diver should be treated on the surface breathing Oxygen until medical assistance is reached).

For dive fanatics the best option is often the liveaboard. This option allows for three to four dives every day, boats can whisk you to a new dive site every time you take the plunge.

Solo diving is

EMERGENCY FACILITIES AVAILABLE FOR DIVING INCIDENTS

Shaahina Ali is one of the very first Certified Maldivian Female Diving Instructors. She has been diving in Maldives for over 25 years and has her own diving education centre in Male’. With a background in photo journalism, she has travelled the Maldives extensively and worked on several development projects. Photo 1: Whale Shark (Rhicodon Typus) Photographed outside Maamigili Photo 2: Clark’s Annemonefish (Amphiprion Clarkii) and Z-Clam

Decompression chambers are located at Bandos Island Resort (North Male Atoll), Kuramathi (Ari Atoll) and Alidhoo Island Resort (Haa Alif Atoll). Sun Island Resort (South Ari Atoll) and Royal Island Resort (Baa Atoll) will start operating decompression chambers soon. Regional Hospitals have Medical Oxygen available, though GP’s generally have little or no experience with Diving emergencies. It is strongly advised to call one of the Chamber locations and get advice from the Doctor managing the Diving Chambers. QUICK FIRST AID HINTS •

At any sign of headache, nausea or other decompression symptoms oxygen should be breathed immediately and advice from a Diving Doctor at any resort with a decompression chamber should be sought.

•

Drink lots of water before and after each dive as well as during the day.

•

Do not wash jelly fish or plankton stings with fresh water. Rinse with Salt and then with Vinegar.

•

Clean any Coral Cut thoroughly with salt water, then rinse with fresh water and disinfect.

Photo 3: Phantom Banner Fish (Honiochus Pleurotaenia) Photo 4: Feather Star (Oxycomanthus sp) Photo5: School of Yellowfin Goatfish and Snappers Photo 6: Branching corals

Photos by: Shaahina Ali

VARA 01

THE

INTERVIEW WITH ARCHITECT AND PAINTER MAUROOF JAMEEL ON THE MUCH REFERRED NOTION OF ‘MALDIVIAN IDENTITY’ INTERVIEWED AND WRITTEN BY IFHAM NIYAZ

MALDIVIAN

ENQUIRY

nce upon a time, our identity could have been stamped into every aspect of our daily works; in the design of a fishing boat, the neckline of a woman’s libaas dress, or in the delicateness of a knife made for the purpose of scraping coconuts in a specific Maldivian way. The fishing boat has now evolved, the necklines have disappeared, and we rarely scrape our coconuts with a special knife. Strangely, however, we still remind ourselves of the lost elements whenever we are asked to define what Maldivian culture is. Can our identity be defined through our arts, architecture, and everyday activities? Do we need to backtrack into our traditional ways of life to define what we are today? Discussing ‘Maldivian-ness’ in such a context seems like a never ending dialogue.

Maldivian architect and painter Mauroof Jameel fills us on his view on things that are Maldivian in his own lens.

VARA 01

IN: What would you say is art in a Maldivian context? MJ: Art is a people’s creative interactions. Not only visual arts, this includes all areas such as performing arts as well. Visual arts in Maldives emerged through its traditional crafts. The first evidence of any form of art is in coral carvings and then later on in lacquer work designs and weaving. The creative use of staple items as art forms; such as the use of palm leaf in weaving and making decorative origami designs for festivals, as well as using specific colours and different detailed drawings in traditional boat building; they all display a society’s creative thinking. IN: Our traditional crafts need to be revived and visualised if we are to promote our unique art. Not in a carcass as history is told, but as a living thing, in performance, in our building environments, in our everyday activities. Tell us about something that represents what is uniquely Maldivian to you, something that you miss if you are away from the islands for a long time. MJ: A very distinct Maldivian thing that I miss when I am abroad is the Maldivian food. Especially our preserved food. I find it very unique compared to what we have in the region. Such distinct preserved food was probably developed as a response to the lifestyles of our people who travelled for days on seas. A good stock of unspoilt food was required then for these trips. The finest example of this is the Maldivian dried fish and rihaakuru (thick paste made from fish broth). People from the northern and southern atolls of Maldives then travelled the longest distances and you can see this relation in their preserved food. If you look at the north, such finely preserved foods include haalu folhi (thin paper-like pancakes), fathui hakuru (thick sugar paste made from toddy), and mas bondi (spiced fish balls). If you go down south, you have the famed naaruffalidha and bondi (sweet or hot snacks wrapped in banana leaves). Each has a very distinct flavour and can be preserved for months. This is something we can say is ours. This is something that can be promoted as a unique cuisine of Maldives. It is part of our lifestyle and traditions.

Our drums are a very Maldivian thing. Bodu beru is still alive as a drum used in celebratory festivities. But there are other forms of traditional drum beats that are not used anymore. Traditionally, drums were used for communication. There was the havaru beru, calling the islanders for a community message, dhan beru that signified a time in midnight, naaba, and so on. There is no need for these drum signals now, but these are traditions that need to be studied. The rhythms and tempo must be researched and collected as art forms and perhaps be used in performance arts. The book by Eagan and N. Manik on the culture of bodu beru is a good example. Such documentation of our traditions helps us define or contemplate on our own culture, especially in this globalised world. This helps us define our identity, and is beneficial for tourism purposes. For example, there are many hotel brands whose design philosophy is to make a product that envisages everything about the host culture. But in Maldives, this is difficult to achieve because of lack of information, resulting in a product that is not at all Maldivian. IN: What if the identity we are trying to promote with music and traditional dress and clichéd ‘Maldivian’ way of life is no longer relevant in real life? Do we still promote lost traditions as our culture and identity even if we acknowledge that ours is now a society that mostly requires that dance be diminished and veils be increased? Or are we trying to recreate something that we have already lost; the redundant drum beats, the chants, the dresses, the jewellery, and the festivities? MJ: We cannot detach ourselves from our past and we still need our traditions. All old traditions may not be living traditions, but we need memories of our past to have strong identities in present life. There may be different use of our traditions now and I do agree that traditions need to adapt to present circumstances. One fine example is how the coconut thatching changed from a redundant roofing material for housing and buildings to a highly sought roofing material for tourist resorts. It is the same for many crafts such as lacquer work which was formerly used for decorating wooden containers. Cultural dance which played

VARA 01

an important role in social interactions is now gradually becoming a performance that is done on a stage. So, cultural dance and such traditions maybe dying out as a social event, but can survive as an art form and as a marketable product. I believe we need to revive all dying arts for the sake of our future generations. We should also realise that we are now going through rapid social and cultural changes, and with that, we are becoming a richer culture with more cultural diversity. When we accept such diversity we should not have issues related to dance verses veils.

IN: You have done various studies on traditional Maldivian villages and the intelligent methods used in the design of buildings. Tell us about the important role of Maldivian architecture, especially traditional architecture in terms of defining our identity and culture. MJ: Our island architecture should be viewed in terms of architectural spaces and cultural landscapes, not as individual iconic buildings. Especially our vernacular architecture; the traditional Maldivian architecture included whole building compounds with indoor and outdoor spaces evolved taking into consideration

the materials available, the environment, as a direct response to societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs. Traditional architecture has a lot to offer in defining our identity. It provides the physical evidence of our past and provides many lessons for the future. We may not be able to copy all the brilliant ventilation methods used in traditional buildings or build huts out of coconut palm. But what we can do is take it to another intellectual level and ask why our traditional builders did certain things. With that understanding we can make better buildings today. The survival methods of our ancestors provide important lessons that can be utilised in resolving the identity issues and environmental issues that we face now. IN: Do you think such unique architectural communities still exist in Maldives, and if so is there anything that can be done to preserve or sustain this important part of Maldivian culture?

MJ: Yes. Our island settlements are still very unique; the main road, the holhuashi (wide wooden benches near the beach area), the landing area where fisherman come in with their catch, the arrangement of houses, and so on. There is no second to our islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cultural and natural landscapes, but this is has to be proven for a fact. I feel that a typical Maldivian traditional island should become a UNESCO World Heritage site. Traditionally, there have been two basic types of islands communities; fishing villages and agricultural islands. The dynamics of exchange between these two types of islands is important. Research needs to be done to see what can be preserved as a heritage island.

VARA 01

IN: With the identification of such villages, do you see future scope for heritage developments in Maldives? MJ: Definitely. There are fine examples of success all over the world, where living human settlements have become world heritage sites. These types of heritage developments require community involvement and understanding. The long term benefits and commercial value of such a development must be made aware to such communities. Children who are growing up now need to be able to identify with the stories from our past and be aware of unique elements of Maldivian culture in order for them accept these elements as part of their future and development. Heritage development in the Maldives is important for the continuity of our civilization and for the diversification of our tourism product.

WE CANNOT DETACH OURSELVES FROM OUR PAST AND WE STILL NEED OUR TRADITIONS. ALL OLD TRADITIONS MAY NOT BE LIVING TRADITIONS, BUT WE NEED MEMORIES OF OUR PAST TO HAVE STRONG IDENTITIES IN PRESENT LIFE. IN: Let us talk about your interest in painting. What is painting for you and how are you inspired? MJ: I have recently taken up batik painting, but water colour has been my long preferred medium. I am drawn to the similarities in these two mediums. In batik, you stretch the fabric and drop the ink, look at how it moves around and settles. It is the same in water colour, there is fluidity in the natural form. When two colours are dropped on two sides, the two colours merge naturally,

VARA 01

and it is exciting to see what comes out of it. I like harnessing the colours and material in their natural state, instead of striving for total control. It is a bit like real life. IN: It relates to what you have been talking about before; vernacular architecture and evolving cultures. MJ: That is true. My inspiration comes from nature. I see myself as an illustrator; I use my art to communicate about things around me, like nature, study of birds or boats, or architecture.

IN: Looking at Maldives through a painterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lens, what is most appreciated? Is there anything that the first time visitor should take note of upon seeing the islands for the first time? MJ: What I like most are the colours of nature and the way light falls on things. It is the feel of a tropical island environment. Most notable are the different layers of blue. I think the aerial view is the most unique. We see the shades of blue of the sea not as a 2D flat surface, but as 3D transparent layers revealing the stories of

the undersea world. If we can visualise our scenery this way while understanding our environment, then it is great. This shows what the Maldives represents, the natural and organic formations, human intervention on each island, how nature responds to this intervention, how our race has adapted to this natural environment. That is the most beautiful sight.

Interviewed and written by Ifham Niyaz. Mauroof Jameel is presently working as a consultant architect and seeking a PhD at the University of Malaya in Malaysia. His current study interests include researching on Cultural Heritage of the Maldives.

Photos by: Ahmed Zahid / Ahmed Ansam

VARA 01

?ukWtcnok IvcnwrukuDwm ( www.theleela.com +9147130512345 ) cTOsir cmwluvOkWlIl WCcawmiritwa IkwTOsirim wncnoa cnegihej iaWCIb cmwlcvOk iawgutWrwfeaegcaeawdwburwf ukidevoruawa cmwrItwmos .evekenwt uLwgnwr cSwrwv wmwn cnunEb cnwleruh iawgIriawk cSwtog Wvitwmiruk WdUm Ikwa ( www.somatheeram.in +914712268101 ) cTOsir ImIkwh cSwncnuhIm WdcSwnwtea .evekenwt wncnoa cSwtogwncnwa cSwairitcnukwDnwgcsua iaWnwxETcs clEr iawgugwm cmwluk ilWjcnwm cnwtcnwt oyehugwa egiawdWa .evekenwt EdWvurwf .eveaeruh iawgutWg

?caenihik InWd

cSwmuruDcneviruT cnEjcaWrihevid emcnea .eveaehudua ukwhwvud emcnok cnurwbUTckoa IkwLokcswvud umWrwa csevulWvud iLum Iaea .eveSwrwbcmesiD wncnoa cnusUm cSokumiawgctih cnusUm WrukwrWscaiv .evekerwvcswvud cSwrwbcmeTcpes cniacnUj) Wviawgumwk .eveSWdun iawgukwtcswvud (wncnoa

VARA 01

Wvwdcneg cnumwvcauLuairid iawgWaiDcnia IkwacTwb cnurwa unUmczwm .evekeairetcnuyil EhebWmwkirevurutwfurutwd urInwk IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia .eveacmIhwr caudcbwa iLcawf ImWvus Wbcnwmudwp :1 urwvuDnwg Wkilcawmwrituk :3 - 2 cawtctwvWb egWnWkWzWt eguCIb cmwlcvOk :5 - 4 cmwaizuaim rwaipen :6

OTof OTof OTof OTof

cTwb cnurwa :rwfWrcgOTof

Wdcnumwrugum cnumob iSwtiawsea .evencnegiawLwa urwzcnwm unuhufcsoauria cSwSodctib egukwtuLWr .evemIleb

eguDwawyid cnumemuf cawtugWritIr iauliaul ukwhIm urwzcnwm ilWkcawdudnwh cnitwmwrwkcaur cnEret .evemISud cnerwhwa

cnerwhwa csiawa irubnea cSwmuruDcneviruT .evemIlWgnih iawgukwtugwm Obiawb egnWtea egnWtcnwt caeawb EverukwgwhWf iriawk iaWSwrim iawfIdcSokcnIqwy iawgEa .evemISud caeDOburWhitcxia ".eveSwnwt Ivcnwncnwa InuvedWa wyit" .evetoa iruk cnerwhwa udem iaWmuruDcnevircT uLokcnuyilea .evetogcaea cniLum iaWkwtcsWsuhia

cmwrItwmos cnEmihwmwhea uhwvudiawa cnegihej cmwluvOk ctoaiawgIriawk Iawaid cnerwhwa cnuTOsir cSwkwairwbcaea iawguSwf irEscawaim .eveSwCIb eguDnwk cnunwtcnwtea .eveTcauh cawtcTcnerOTcser .eveaebil cSokWzWt cawtctwvWb utWfwt egumurid Obnul-urugnia Ivuneg cnerwhwa cniaEfek urWbWlwm iaumWm InidcSokinof iSwtiawsea .evekeTcSwtiaws

cnumwrukcswvwa csogcnumwdcnumwd .evencnumwruk cSwrwvEgnEnurub egiawfiaWtwa cnuhwfemcnea Everuk uriaWrukcnwkim cSwtogim .eveawlcSokcswvwa uDobcaekwtea InWdcnegevcaetWkwrwh iawbun emcnea .eveSwmwkwdwfWdibil Wyinwa enEdWvurwf wmwnejcaevWmid caemwkwdwfim wmwh csevInedWvurwf .eveaeruhWtea csevcaekinilck .eveaWvurwf ukidevuruywa cSwtogImIdwg iruhiawgcmwywtwp Ikwnwtcaenwa ununefcSwncnwhwa Iaea .eveTcnerOTcser eg cnwrwdWgcnwgIvIs iruhcSokwDukwDuk cSwkwtogumiawgctih cSwrwv Ikwmuaek egnWtea .evekenwtumWrwa EbiliawvWzWt .evekemuaek ulcswa Iaea .evekemuaek utWfwtcniLum (cSokuncnunEbcsEb) cnitwm egukwtulUsuaIfWgws WviawfWdcawh cniaWnWk Itwrudug eguDnwgcnib WviawfcSokurWycawt ukeaWmwkiretWvurwf cnitekwt .evekemuaek wmwhiruf .evekeTcSwtWvEm Inidcseneg wmwtwruf cSwncnwhwa ukeaWkwTcawt csUjIrebcsUg uhwfcSwaea cnegiawLwaudWvwh cSokwDuk cSwrwv .evemuaekiawm ctuhObul iaWrikuDnwg cned .evekepUs WviawfWdwh InuverukIh cSwncnwhwa .evekeTcSwt iruhiawfcSokcaea .eveSwmwk enWluncaeawhwr cSwrwv WmIvcaeaWnWk Ihcais Edwhwrcnef IkwaWnWk emcnokwdwfea cSwrwhwfwnig Iaea ukwmwkea .eveaItWviawgumwkiteCcaea iawbuncSwawgnwa cSwkwmuaekurIm urwvoyehwhwr cSwrwv Ikwmuaekim eail iawgukwtctib egnWtea cnwrwdWgcnwg .eveaiv cSwncnurwmwTcswk egWnEa InwviawfIdcnwkcnIgwy .eveawkwhWv enEbil caemuaekuLom Ihcais Ikwmuaek uLwgnwr" .evetoa iawgcaemuyilcaea caenwa ".evekeCcaea EdWvurwf uLom eruvcSwkwrwTckoD iaWaegidwb wrWhif csEb" Inedenub iawgumuyil .eveSwmwk "iawgItwm Wmid caerwtcawv cnehea egWnWk Ihcais cSwncnwhwa .evencnuTOsir cmwrItwmos egItofiauSwfOb Inunef .evencnegednia iawgIlwa egurwvudnwh Iaekcnerwhwa egnWtim .evencnumwhwa uDwaukizuaim egukwtuLWr wncnwa iawguTOsir Wdcaevuruawaim urwTckoD egcaehImea iawfWdwh Wlwbudcniv egcnunWmehem ELuacnegevudwm ukwmwkea WvcnunEb cSwDnwgiSwh egnWtea .eveaedenub caemuaek Evelukea cawtiawb Iaea .evemuaek Wpwk idwa Wtip Wtwv Iruhiawgumuaek cSwnUnWq3 eguDnwgiSwh iawgumuaek ukidevuruawa Emufunoa iawgnWtea Erea .evekwturwtcawv WvcnunEb

VARA 01

100

VARA 01

IKIrWt uDobemcaea wncnuh iawgcmuruDcneviruT .evetWrWmia egILcawf ImWvus Wbcnwmudwp IkwtWrWmia egILcawfim WviawfcSokWnibcnulwa iawgunurwg wnwv18 .evekcnET cnwrItwmudwp InwviawgutWrwfcaea egutWrWmiaim egIrub7 cawtidOd eguDnwgcnefim egubWsihiawm .eveaeruhiawfiLea cSwCcawmurodwncnwv caerwswa eguDnwgcSwfuDwa iaWmwkitenidwvwa egiawlihurwmurwm iruhiawfiawhwjcnegiawSwv egILcawfim .eveawrOfun csevukwhwvud cSwkwaeretea egukwtubnwt cSwkwtwnWhwm Udcnih urUhcxwm egWlerek iawgunwtim wncnef ctwkcawswm egumuheruk iawgiDukwl wBcaWK .eveaeruh csevcaetwrWyizwDuk Ikwkwtcnuheruk wncnuhiawfWgwnWDnwk iawgIDukwl iawgukwtctWrWmia wnigcSwrwv eguhia iawgWlerek eguSwr .evekemwkIfWgws WviawfcSokcnunEb Wkilcawmwrituk wncnuh iawgubWsihiawm .eveaeruh cawtcnuherukwdwfim cseviawgurwvuDnwg .eveaenefcswa 122 WviawfWgwnuLwvcnib iawgEa Incnwfim WviawgItwmunUm egurwvuDnwg .evekeCcaea enEvelWvoh csevIkwtwkcawswm unWfegcswr egurOkcneviruT iawg1840 IkwrwvuDnwgim cnegiLugiaWmuaid imincnwkcswrea .evekenwt ivcauLea urwhwawnig eruvcSwawkEtws iawfcSokudcnwb cnwtea umcaWa .evencnukwhwfidWd IvuLuh .eveTcauh cnedcnwv egWliaWa IhWx egIruk IlWvuLuh cSwkwmwaizuaim .eveawgukea csevWkwturwswa Incnwf idwa iheveg InwviawfcSokiretctwnIz uLokirwTokuDob egurwvuDnwg InwviawfWdwh itekwtea .evencnukwtcnWdEmws egumwkcswrea .evencnukwturihWvwj cnwaijcleb .eveaeruhiawfWTcawhwb cnwkcawd csevuLokujWt WviawfWdwh cnegcSokcnunEb (Irwviawa) ctwdegutea22 .eveaevoa csevcaeLokujWt wnwved ukeaiaWLokujWtim .evekeLokujWt egurihWvwjcsuh Iaea WkwtWnibIrWsWa InwviawfiLugIzWm egcmuruDcneviruT iaWaWkilcawmwrituk .evenUncaeNcnwkea WkwturwnuhIncnwf .eveTuaiTiTcscnia IrWlwk Ikwnwtcaea WviawgutWgidWd .evekenwt EdcSokcswd cawtuLukuaIAWfid egIruk WrukcnunEbiLwv iaWscaoyif iaWairubiDnwd Iaea egumwk .evekerwnuh egurwtcawvWyik Ea utcawywpirWlwk cnurwvirwd egnWtea cnuSwd egumuleb egukwrudeaWm .eveawvcaWb cawtcnurukwtirwf ukwnudneh emcnok cnuhwlcswl cSwrwv InwncnwgiawSwf cawtunIrcmwt cawtctWkwrwh WrukcnunEb iawgurwnuhea

egutwrudug" emcSwkwhIm emcnok WrukctwrWyiz cSwSwrea cawtuDOb urWhitcxia WviawfWhwj "cSwr wlcaimwa .eveaenEvenwgiawlwb WbwHurwm inif Wdcnumwyik IkwmuruDcneviruT iawgumuliawlwb wmwtwruf cSwmwkcaenwtutWfwt WkwtcSwr cnehinehea egWyiDcnia "cSwr egutwrudug" .eveaenWvitwd cnwrukulUbwg cnubWsihiawm ilobwlwh eguSwrea InwSwfcnwncnef WlcSokUd uDOr Ijcmea .eveSwkwrwvwyid cnumevedcSwrud egukwtiLOg iaWkwtugwminwh egukwtcSwvwacnEmihwmwh cSwaeret egukwtctWrWmia egIruk csogcnEret ukea iaWmuvedwv cSwDnwg ubWsih egumwkcnEmihwmwh cnegevulwdwb cniLum emcaekwtcsWsuhia Whiruh cawturwswa eguSufcSwr wtwvun uDnwgcSwvwa .eveaed WviawfWdcawhWCIgwb cswyiviawgumwkWviawfivelukea cnurutia egukwtWfcaur iaWrodegitOg cswvwnwt WviawfevWyih cnukwtcswgwyib egiawlukihef .evemwkcsuh iaWmuhejwmwh InWncnef cnukwtugwm Itwmiritwa wdwgcnwkihef wdwfEvenwgiawLwa Iaim .evekeSwr InWncnef cniawnig cseviawguDOr Ijcmea WviawfWhwj irUlcaib cneruscnerus iawgItwmunUm cawturwswa IrWXWa idwa WLwawLwd ,itwDobitwDob cnubIturwt egurWhim .evekwtctWrWmia Wviawfivelukea egISumctwr cnwkcserwtwh iaWTIa wncnuhiawfevurEb Obiawb ctenidwvwa .evenwtcnwt umiawgctih cTWacniawf wncnef uriaWlWvcaud iawgItwmcawtugwm iaWCcawmunUmctwr egWnWKubutukumcaWa iaWjelok iaWkwtWnwv iaWkwtcnuherukImIdwg egnWtcnwtea emcnok wdwfim .evekwturodiduk utWfwt egurwvikea egcmuruDcneviruT Inediawvukcawdea emcaerwzcnwm .evekwturwswa egIzWm iruhiawgubWsihikea eguSwrea IkwkwtctWrWmiaim caeawb egukwtctWrWmia egIruk wdwfivencnedim iaWmwkiretcnuduf iawgukwturwzcnwmea .evekwtWnUmwn egWlerek Wviawfivelukea uruKwf egumwkirevuncnwf 15 Ikwacmwaizuaimrwaipen .evekwtcnuridiLukcsum ufWliKiaWawdWa .eveketWrWmia eguhia Wviawfevurwhwa .eveketWrWmia irubed itIr iruhcaetogEvenwgiawLwa ukeaiaWawlukctwr csog cniawlukiSotWyifuDwm iaWDuaUn cnutWrwfed .evekenwtWvukcawdcawtwluk cnudem egukwtwniv wdwgcnwkihef EdehcSwawdwg cnukwkwtwluk wnigcaekwtea Ikwnwtim wncnef egumwkiretctwkcawswm .evekenwt Wviawfevidnwscaum Inwduawm iawgnWtim Wviawfiruf cnukwturwnuh egukwtiLcawf iaWkwtcnudcaefua egutwdctea iaWkwtwrUs .eveaevelWvohcnikwv cawtWyiDWgcswa

101

VARA 01

018

VARA 01

102

eguSwrea Inwdcnegevwfis cSwDob emcnea cmuruDcneviruT urodeg idwa cawtcaur iaWkwtcSoduDnog WvcnegivelWmwd iaWtwfWgws egWlerek WviawfcSokcnunEb iawgumurukWnib egcaeaITis WviawfivelWtwg cnukwtwfis egWairOTckiv iawgutog WviawfcSokwgwhWf utwb cnurwa .eveawgutog egcnuhImiawbea InwvITisim Wviawfivelukea cawtcSoduDnog cSwaea WTcawhwfih uDnwgctog IvwdWm iaWkwtwdWkwdWa .eveawgumwk caeawb WrukibOl

VARA 01

103

VARA 01

utWfwt egiawlukUn .evesWsuhia egumwkcaekwtcSwr .evekwtwluk EverukwgwhWf emcnea IkwkwtwlwSwf eguDnwguLwa Ikwmunef wncnefea uriaWlWlwbcnitwm eguDnwk .everwzcnwm utWfwt WywdWa emcnea iawgurwzwn caeawlwSwfcnWmoa 2 D Inwkcawd uDnwk cawtwlukUn Egneaeretea cSok3 D Inwncnef .evenUncaencneh cnehcaeawkwhWvWhiruh egEyinudeguDnwk ,caekwtwlwSwf egcnemuDnwguLwa cSwtogim .eveSwkwtogwlwhwk Ediawyik ebit cnegignea iSev egcnemuDnwguLwa cawturwzcnwm cniaim .eveaenWvuLwgnwr cSwrwv wmwnEveliawlwb Itwrudug Ediawvukcawd ejcaWrihevid InWncnef cnunWscnia iawguSwrcSwr .evekwt cnudefua Itwrudug ukeaWmwkim .evetog Wviawfevirevcnwzwv .evekwtulwdwb Wviawfcsiawa cSwkwtcSwr cnutog cSwTcSevim egutwrudug ulcswn egcnemerwhwa idwa umiawgcaih emcaea .evetog WviawfWlihejwmwh iawlitef .eveaIaea Ikwrwzcnwm

cSwtogELug iaWTcSevWmit wlcaimwa Iawyit :a cniruk cnutogEheb iaWtwfWgws egumuvEr cnuLuairid ?Otcaegod caelUsua ELugcSwrwv iaWawkwhWv ivekcaed

?OtWmwkcawd wkwhWv egumuheruk egufUruAwm :a urwvctih cSwmwkea idwa Otiawbok IkwacTWa egufUruAwm ?Otctenihik InwvwdcaOh WaiDiawa wtwvun

Itwrudug Inebil ulWyih cSwDnwguLwa .evekedet :jm eguDnwguLwa InekeduDnwguLwa .evencnukwtcawtcnwk cSokulIsufwt cnwkcnwk WvcnegiawSwv IkwTWa cnutogim .eveawgutogegcaeCcaea Ediawkcawd cnegiawSwv InWncnuh iawfiheruk cSwDnwguLwa egurwhwfuTOb wtwvun egInUd ,iaWkwturwzcnwm wncnef .evekwtctWrWmia ,iaWkwturwtcawv

Wawluk ukiTwb uDnwguLwa cnuhwfcSwrwv :jm Ikwmuscaej wlukcnef ukwmwkea .evemIfiawSwfcneLuk .evekwtcnwk ivctihWruk eruscaIruk emcaea uDnwguLwa .eveawkwTcSwmwk ctogcaeairuh egukwtcnwkedim Iaea iawfWrutwf cSokcnWv uDnwgitof iawgumuscaej ckiTwb ctogEmin irutef ikitea cned .eveaInwhwj ikitiled .evencnehea wmwhInwv csevWgiawlukcnef .evemwlwb .eveaeruh caekwtcnuLuk wlcaimwa iawgukwtwlukea wluked cnumuhej cSwtWrwfed ikited egiawluked .eveawgutWz wlcaimwa egEa Inwdcnegirutef ,evcaea Ikwmuleb OtcaeCcaeacnok Inwncnukun cniaeacned csevitof iaWawluk cSwtogim .evekemwk EvevWywg cSwDnwguLwa IkwmulcSokUd cSwtog wlcaimwa egEa egumuvurOfurWb cnumwkwdwg cSwaea .evekemwkEvehurcSwrwv cawtcnwk cseviawgumuLuairid wlcaimwa .eveawgulwdwb .eveSwkwtog wlwhwkWv

cSwaejcaWrihevid cnulol egcaeairetcnuheruk :a ?Otiawbok Ikwmwk EvenwgiawLwa emcaea wmwnifiawlwb wmwtwruf ejcaWr cSwkwhIm WrukctwrWyiz cSwaejcaWr Ivcnwruk wgwhWf cnukwtcSwr utugwv wncnef ?OtcaeCcnOk Itwrudug InwncnwgiawLwa emcnea uDnwguLwa :jm WviawfiLea cSwnwtcnwtikea cawtwlukea iaWkwtwluk WviawgIDnwtudem egEyinud Iaea .eveawgutog

104

Ikwgnorcaea Wvcawruk WsWrid urWhim .evekeLufEb Wvwdcawh IDcCeaIp iawgITisrwvinuy Wyelem egWyixElem cnumwvcawruk ctwkcawswm iawgutog egcaeTckeTikWa cTcnwTclwscnok urWhim IkwlImwj cfUruawm .evedIxwr utwlcaih IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia unUmuzwmim .eveawkirwtIfWgws egEjcaWrihevid cmWscnwa udwmuhwa / udihWz udwmuhwa :rwfWrcgOTof

VARA 01

enwgened cSokikwv cSwrcSwr wlwhwkea :a caehwvud enEverukctwyWmih iawgEjcaWrihevid ?Otcnwvcawliked cSwmwkenWdevutwa cSwrwv cseviawgEyinudiLum .evenIgwy :jm .eveaeverukwbea cawtcnwkwyit ukeaWmwkubWyimWk egEyinud csevcnwtcnwt ELuairidcnuhIm .eveawdwh iawgumwkcnwtcnwt WviawfiverukctwyWmih wguSwrea iawgutwkcawswm egumurukctwyWmih im ctogWgnihcnwk ,cSokireviawb cnirevuluhwa cSwkwkwtcnWmwz .eveaehej cnEdiawvulifcnuLoa iaWkwtWdiawfwnWv cnumuaidcnegimed cnwtcnwtea cSwkwywbea ugwa egunwtcnwtea iawgutog egiawkirwt egcnemerwhwa cnutogim .eveaehej cnEdWvulifcnuLoa IdWyik cSwtwkwhWvegIruk egEjcaWr cSwncnIdukwDuk Enemih iawgutwfWgws ihevid ,IdWvulifcnuLoa wdwfim InUn cnegIdiawvulifcnuLoa cawtiawb umcaihum egcaeawb egclwbugwtcsum egcnidukea Ikwmwkcnwk .eveaenEverukuncaelUbwg cSwncnidukea iawgutog iaWSwaIgcawrwt egcnihevid IkwmurukiretWkcawr wkirwt umcaihum cSwrwv iawkwTcSwmurukWLuf cnwkirevurutwf .evekemwk

iawguSwrcSwr caeawb egEjcaWr csevurWhim :a cnuhIm iawgukwtctWrWmia iaWrodeg wdwfea iawgumwkELua ?OtcnwvcawrukulUbwg cSwmwkELuairid cSwrcSwr iaWtwfWgwsea egcnemuDnwguLwa wmwnWv enEveruk cnwTcawhwlwb iawgcaetog ivineTcaehemed ?Otctoawbea caemwk IkwSwrcSwr egEjcaWr csevidwa .evekeanWa :jm Wgwmiawm .evenwtcnwt utWfwt cSwrwv wmwh csiawacnuhwm cnirevcswm cSwaWmidWfwl ,iSwauLoh ,ubIturwt wncnuhiawfWLwa cawteg ,cnulEbWlWbcswm IkwSwrcSwr egcnemuDnwguLwa .evekemwk emcnwtikwdwfim ,iaWncnutogIfWgws .evetencaeawnwved .evelWsimwmwh InEhejcnwkim ukwmwkea .eveaemcsevcnutogWviawfidefua iawgutogEked uDnwguLwa .eveSWkcawd erencSokutibWs egEyinud cniaOkcsenuy caeSwrIfWgws ihevid .eveaenEhej csevcnwrukctwyWmih iawgutogcaeawkiret .eveSwkwywbed Ineheb cawtcSwr ihevid eruscaIruk .eveSwrcSwr irevuDnwd iaWSwrcSwr irevcswm cSokctWlwmWaum uLwgnwr uLwgnwr iawgudemed egiawbedim umcaihum cSwrwv Ikwmutoa cneverukulwdwb itekwt iawgutog egiawkirwt IkwSwrcSwr wdwfim .evekemwk cnokcnok IvcnEdunwyidcnegiten iawkwTcSwmurukctwyWmih .eveaehejcnwlwb cSokWsWrid OtcaescaiCcaea

Wviawfiveruk iawgukwtcSwr egcnemuDnwguLwa :jm WviawfeLugcneg iawgumuLea urodeg iaWkwtctWrWmia iaWtwfWgws iaWluawhWm WvcnegiawSwv IkwkwtwdWa InwviawfWdwh urodeg ea .evekekwtctog WviawfiLug .evenUn caeawgutog egcaekwtctWrWmia ikwvikwv itOgiLum IruhiawfWdwh cawtctWrWmia cnihevid egurEa ,iaWSwawgWj egurEb iaWaeretea cnegiawnwmih .eveawfcSokWnib cSwCcawm egItekwt wncnuhcnebil Wdumwk cSwkwtcnunEb egcaenwtea wtwvun caeawbea egcnIhevid cnukwtctWrWmia egurEa .eveSwtog wnigcSwrwv iawgumunidWyik cnwkwtcnwvihevid iruh egcnihevid urEa .eveaenEd caekwtIhea cSwgwmiruk cnumulifcnuLoa cnwkwnWdwLuk iaWrwvcnef urEa .eveaenWd cnegibil uLwvWlif caekwtea Wrukuruawdiawv iretcnuncsiv iruhiawfcSokcnunEb egukur .eveaenWdiawgnih idehun urWhim cawtctog .eveaenWdiLEn caeaiTufij wdwfWLwa cnukwtctwvWb ctogiruhiawfcSok urEa cawtcawtcnwkea csevwmwn .eveaenWdiverukulWvus OtevcaIk Irukcnwkea ,Wlwb irukcnunEb cniawfwbWk WlEvea egcnemuDnwguLwa ,Wvurid cnwkwtcnwvihevid iawgIhea egukwtulUsua cSwkwtwlwscawm egISevWmit WdcnumwvWmid urWhim .eveaenWdidOh ulcawh

105

VARA 01

cnulwa caekwtcawtcnwk Wviawfilcaeg cniLum Eyikim Emwkwtcnwvihevid Ivencnedim ?Ot OtEdcaefua idwa cnudeh ,iaWkwtileveyik ,iaWkwturwtcawv egureb wdwf cawtcnurukwgwhWf utwbwsWnumikea ,iaWrihWvwj .evekwtcawtcnwk iaWkwaIzWm cSwkwncnemuDnwguLwa :jm cnunEb egutwtwfWgws .eveaenEvevuncaekctwv Ikwkwtcawtcnwk Whiruh egIzWm .eveaenEhej csevidwa evuncSwkwmwk enEvurid Ikwmwk Whiruh IfWgws wtwvun IkwkwtcnWdnwh egIzWm wyidevutwaev .eveaenWdiawgnih cnwkcaeawbcnok Ikwncnemerwhwa iawgugwmiruk egIruk .evekemwkiretcnunEb cSwmuLeawDnwk .eveaenWdevutWfwt urWhim cawtcnunEb egutwfWgws ctwfWgws egurEa .evehwbcaea csevuDnwguLwa IkwlWsim caea egIm .eveaenWvcnWvulwdwb ukeaWnWmwz .evetogiawa ulwdwbcSwaea .evenwfIlurEa iawguLWruf egukwtuTOser Ineveruk cnunEb cniawnigemcnea urWhim cawteacawtea Wviawfevcnehimwmwh .eveSWrukWyih uLWruf IrukcnunEb wmwtwruf cnuhejWleyil .evekencnwf IfWgws .eveawgItekwtwdwf iLuf uLwd WdwhcniDukwl ikea wncnoa iawgutwaWmwj ISenurEa cSwtcnuSen .eveawgukwt ujETcsia urWhim .eveawgukwtutwbwsWnum egumuaiditenilcaeg cawtuncnwf wdwfea cnutogim cniaea evcSwkwrwnuh iretcnunEb iawgulwdwb .eveaInWd cnegimed evcSwkwCcaea ivinwrukWdiawf IfWgws wdwfea iawgutogWrukulUbwg uDnwguLwa cnwncnwa ,Wvurid Idunwyiditen csevcaemwkWhiruh IkwmudehctogEbil Wfcnwm egEa cSwLokcswfirwd ctoa .evekemwkcnunEb cSwrwv iawgcaeycaevud ivulwh cSwrwv Inwdim cnemurwhwa Wkwtulwdwb IfWgws idwa IAWmitujia cniaeret eguawmwtujum cnutogim .evencnumwlitwmiruk caemwkidnwscaum urutia ukeaiaWkwtctog utWfwt egcaekwtiawb utWfwt Iaim .evencnumwncnef Inwdim ,wmwnejcaiverukulUbwg cnwkcaeawb Evelukea cSwCcawm iawguawmwtujumim iawgIkeaukea IkwmuLeaWgurub iaWmuSen cSwkWvitwd iawgumurukulUbwg cSwmwkcnwkcnwk Enemih .eveaenEhejun

106

iaWkwtcawtcnwk eguSufcSwr egEjcaWr :a eruscaIruk iawgumuLea urodeg iawgnWtcnwtea WkwtWmurwf iaWkwtuLukua iretcnuncsiv WviawfeLugcneg .eveawfWvcawruk WsWrid Inwv ufUruAwm cnutogEheb iaWkwtctog unuLugcneg iawgumuLea urodeg cnihevid ?Otctenihik InwviawfiLug Wmwkwtcnwvihevid

VARA 01

caeawb cnutog egcaelWsim .eveaemcsevenWruk caeTcSev IfWgws iawgcaenwtea IkwkwtWToh uTcsirUT ukwmwkea .evenwtcnwt WviawfWncsiv cnEdiawvukcawd .eveawfevcSwkwmwkitwd Inwvcnwkim cSwncnemerwhwa IkwaWjItwn .evemutenutWmUluAwm Ikwbwbws cnehea itencnwkwtcnwvihevid cSwtogwncnefimurWhim .evemuviawfev cSwkwCcaea ELuacnwrukurWhitcxiaim cnemuDnwguLwa :a Eawtcnwvihevid iaWkwtcnudeh ihevid iaWkizuaim iaWncnihevid egurWhim IkwmuLuairid Evenubim Otcaenihik WNcnwvun cSwkwmwk iruhcaemuLug uDobWm cSwmwkctwfWgws egurWhim egcnihevid ?InWvcned cSwncnemuDnwguLwa IneveLuaim wtwvun ?OtInWvukcawd

,cnwrukcaIk IrukurEa cnwkcnwkea ,iaWtogirukcnwkea egukwturebea .eveaehejcnwlifcnuLoa cnwkcaenihik cSokcaea iawdOh cawtugWr iaWkwtulWt iaWkwtwmwh EaenWvcneverukulIscmwt iawhwjcSwtogea wtwvun idwa egutwfWgws egurebuDob ukinwm.n iaWacnWgIa .eveaevIh .evekelWsim uLwgnwr Ikwtofunuyil cSwCcawm IkwtwfWgws egcnemerwhwa Ikwkwtcnuyil wlwhwkea cSwmubit cnegiawlifcnuLoa enwgened cnwkiawbok egurWhim .evesiCcaea iretcnunEb cSwrwv enWvcnunEb cnikwv cSwaeyinud WviawfiLugim wlwhwkcnok Ikwncnemurwhwa cnutogim .evesiCcaea cnutogeaidwa .eveaenWlifcnuLoa cnwkcaeawbcnok caekwturwswa Evedea unwhun cSwmwkirevurutwf

umcaWa emcneaegIm .evemwk WvcnunEb cawtctwvWb WrukurWycawt cnegiawkcaihiawkcawk IkwlWsimitIr .everukWhir urIm ukeaiaWaea .evehwmuDnwk ihevid wdwfim IkwncnuhIm egunuked iaWrutua egEjcaWr .evencnuhIm Ehejcnwruk cniawnigemcnea urutwdugid Wkwturutwd wdwfim WkwtWnWk wdwfunuvenub cniruk .eveaegnea cSwLwgnwr cSwrwv cnwkWviawfiLug iawgiawvwt) iLofulWh uriaWlWlwb cSwncnuhIm egurutua ) urukwhilutwf ,(caeaiLof Whif cSokinutcSwrwv idwa ,(caerukwh wloaWhWvuDnwg Wdwhcnulwrukur cnegiawLwa urwtcawv caeawb egudWvwh) iDnobcswm uriaWlihej cSwawmwhWnuked .evea (urwvwLugcswm Wdwh / iLuk) iDnob idwa wdilwfukurWn wncnuh (caeaWkideh Wrukudcnwb iawgutwfoyek Wdwh cSokinof urIm utWfwtWhea iawgutWz egEa IkwCcaea emcnokwdwf ETcaeheb evuniawbun uhwvudcswm caekwtea idwa Evelenub Emudcaefua egcnemerwhwa Iaim .eveCcaekwt wscaWK wtcnwvihevid Iaim .eveCcaekwt wlwhwk wdwf Edeh cSokurWhitcxia enubECcaekwt ihevid iaWtogiruhcnuLuairid egcnemerwhwa .evesiCcaea .eveawbcaea egukwtctwkcawswm egIruk .evekeCcaea ihevid cSwrwv csevIkwreb egcnemerwhwa iaWkwtutwbwsWnum csevurWhim idwa IkwmuhejurebuDob .evekemwk EverukcnunEb iawgukwtcnurukwgwhWf wscaWK cnumwhwj wtwvun irukcnunEb iawgIruk ukwmwkea .eveten ukwrWhim cawtulWt caeawb wyidcneg cnwkcnwk IrukcnunEbureb iawgurwvcswvud eguhia cSwncnutiycawr Ihejureburwvwh .eveSwmugcnea Ikwrebcnwd .eveaiawgutog egcaejcaesem umcaWa IhejwbWn .evekemugcnea cnwkejcaevcnwdcnem caekwtureb utWfwt wdwfim .eveauriaEscaoauria cSwkwtogwdwfea ukwrWhim .eveairukcnunEb cSwtogeaurEa ukwmwkea .evetencaemunEb egumurukcnwkea

107

VARA 01

InWvcawrukwfis uncnwf wtwvun uTWa egcnihevid .a ?Otctenihik .evekeaWjItwn egumwkiretcnudcaefua egcnuhIm IkwTWa :jm caeNcnwkea cTWa wncnuh cnekcaed inekeawmwh Iaea csevcaerwtcawvWhiruh iawgEreteguTWa .evenUn cnwncnef .evencnedcnWd cSwkwtcnwkWruk .eveaenEnemih iawgEjcaWr cTWa clwauxiv wtwvun uTWa wncnuh .eveawfiLug iaWkwtctwkcawswm iretctwa egIruk Itoa iawgumwkcaemwk irevuncnwf iruhwmwtwruf emcnea WviawfcSok cnegiawgwniawDnwk iawgulwg Inehejcnwlwb cnegiawgwnenok iawgIDukwl cned .evetwkcawswm eguDWfea iaWmuaiv .evekwtcnuheruk utWfwt iLea egumurukcnunEbcnulwa iteCcaea .evekwtctwkcawswm cSwkwlWsim .evekwtctwkcawswm iretcnudcaefua utWfwt caekwtea iawnegcnumwdwh cnunwf egukur iawgukwtcnuvcaea iaWkwtutwbwsWnum .evesiCcaea .evencnitekwtea Iawyidcnumwruk iretctwnIz .evencnegiawdwh Wscawjwlukwluk iawgIteCcaeaea cawtcnuheruk utWfwtikwv cseviawgumunwburwhwfinOd cnumwkcnwk wdwfim .evekeawdWa egurEa IkwmudehiawLwa irevuncnwf iruhiawgEret egcnihevid Inediawvukcawd .evekwtulWyiK cnwkcnwkwdwfea iruhiawgEret egcnemerwhwa Ikwmuruk Wnwdurwh Wvurwairuk iawvuridcnulwa iawgugnoreguTWa caemuvureairuk urutia cnutogea Wviawfihejcnwruk cnehemcnok wmwncnunEb cnwdOh iawgEret egcaeTcSof inwkeawmwh .evekemwk iruh irid .evenUn cnukwlUsua EdiawvukcawduKIrWt egcnemerwhwa ,iaWawgutog egcaekwturwnuh Incnwf Wruk cSwhwvud cnuhwvud ,iaWawgumurukWnib urodeg .eveawgukwtctwkcawswm IkwCcaea wtcnwvihevid wscaWK cSwfUruAwm :a caekwtcswvudwnig iawgurEbcnEjcaWr .eveaOtiawbok EvcaerukcsWsuhiwa cnwkctencaeCcaeaea wmwnWv ?Otiawbok IkwCcaea wdwfea

108

WvcnWdnwh emcnea uriaELuaiawgurEb cnEjcaWr :jm cSokwscaWK cnikwv .evemuaek ihevid IkwCcaea ihevid Iaea .eveaWnWk ELugcneg uhwvudwnig cnemuDnwguLwa iaWaWnWk ELugcneg iawgukwtumuawg cnehea egubWsihim wlwhwkim .evekeCcaea EvelcSokwgwhWf csevuriwaWlwbWLwa cSwtogea WnWkwncnuh evunukWlwh cSwkwtwdcaumugid Ikwbwbws EverukulUbwg cSwmwkEverukurWycawt cnihevid cnutogiruh urEa cnuLuairid egcnemuDnwguLwa .evemwkWviawfihejcneLua iawgItwmuDnwk ukwhwvud cawtea egWnWk wlwhwk WvunukWlwh cSwkwturutwd wdwfim

VARA 01

idwa Wyiretcnuherukihevid Iaim clImwj c f U r u A w m cTckeTikWa iaWmwkwtcnwvihevid IkwncnIhevid udemiaWmwkirevuncnwf egcnIhevid ivcaed udemWkwtwkwhWv Eveked WlcSokcaea.evekemutwgIdcswb IrukurWycawt eyilcnuhwbisErignia .evezWyin cmWhcfia

...udemWmwkwtcnwvihevid Ikwncnihevid cnemerwhwa iawgcaerwvcswvudcaea cSwhwvud cnuhwvud Inevedenub cnwkcaeawbcnok cSokWnib cSwCcawm egukwtctwkcawswm Wruk ,iaWmwTcawb egurwhwfiDoacswm .eveaenWdeviawgumwk eguhWbil Wviawgumwkcnudnehegcnunehcnwa cSwtogihevid ikwv iaWtog wncnuhiawfWdwhurwk cnwkwscaWK egcaeaiLwv ELugcneg cnwrukuaiSWk InwvimurWhim urwhwfiDoacswm .eveaenWdev csevcSwmwk cawtcnuteg egurwk eguhWbil .eveawfimin evulwdwb InUncnudwm idWd .eveaejcawgnihiten cnehcniLum csevcaenwt WrukuaiSWk cnukwaiLwvikwv Wrukua iSWk EvelWhwa Otiawbok IkwtwfWgws egcnemerwhwa .eveaenefun InwvcnWdnwhim cnemerwhwa iawgubWvwj egulWvus egukwtcawtcnwk Wviawfcsogilcaeg inubim wkwhWv egumwkirevuncnwf egcnemerwhwa .evencnitwm Ikwmwkwtcnwvihevid egcnemerwhwa cnegiawkcawd urodeg egcnihevid?eveycaeh enWdignea cnwkiawbok cnukwtcawtcnwk WrukevwdWa iaWtogWrukctWrWmia ?eveawvWb enWdinef cnwkwtcnwv ihevid inubim cnEdenub cnwkiawbok Ikwmwkwtcnwvihevid egudwaim cSwawmwh iaWkwtcawtcnwkea egurEawmwh InEhejcnWd egukwtctogwtcnwvihevid egcnihevid ?eveycaeh enWdikcaed iawlunWTcauh wmwnifiawSwf IkwawkwhWv .evekeawkwhWv WvcauLua iawgumurukwluk iaWmurukWmurwf cawtctWrWmia cnurwzwn egulImwj cfUruAwm unWncnwf ihevid .eveaivcaediawyik cnwkiawbok Ikwmwkwtcnwvihevid

109

VARA 01

110

VARA 01

111

VARA 01

cSokwDuk wlwhwkcaeawb cnumwdwh ugwm cniaeret csogcSokcswruh csevuDnwgcnwtcnwt Wbnwg .evenuvemukun cSwnwtea egunwt InuverukwgwhWf csevwmwtwruf csevcaemulehcaelur iawguDnwgcnef .evemwkcnEmihwmwh iaWycaevWlevoyev WviawfidehcSokOb cnegiawSwv .eveten .evekeDnwgcnef uDobIaim .evekwtcswgcsua Whwncnefun csevcnukwSwr cnehea egEjcaWr ukwrwhwf iawgumwh Whwjiawv egcnemerwhwa .eveDob cnumwhwjilwf cnutwa iawgItwmuDnwgcnef cnehukwhIm uriawncnoa iawgItwm uDnwgcnef egILukea .evemIvcaud .evekeaeyinud Inefwvuh IneverukcsWsuhia .eveNcnwkea uDwaWvoginUd Inevia cSwtwfcnwk cswvud wnwvurwtwh

?ukWtcnok InWncnuh eguSwvwa umwgiDnUd eguSwrim (7753160) egIdWv Inwncnuhegim egIrwTok 15 .evekeaWrwscnWmehem caenwt enWncnuh .eveawgutWrwf unukeduria iaWa (7629956)Ifutul udwmcawhum cSwmuscaejwmwh .eveaenEscaejwmwh csevcnumulWLug

?caenihikInWd cSwSwrea cSwaUDcawa cniaelWm cnuhudua 5 egcnwaiviDclOm .eveaevoa ukwlWvud iawgurEb cnumuved (cSwTOp rwaeacnwg) cSwaUDcawa cSwkwlumcawvuf iawgcaeaIsukeT cnukwtIsukeT wncnoa Irefim Wruf cnUdEf .eveSWdSwairiawk IrefWruf cnuTenim cSwkwrwv 45 iawgcaetog cjerevea .eveaenWd cSwkwlumcawvuf urutwd egIref cniruk egumuruf cSwauDcawa urWzin .evekemwkiretcnunEb IkwmulWscawjwmwh iaWa3000808 EkIvcmea wtwvun 3345644 clwvercT egcnwaiviDclOm cnukwtIscnejeaim wmwh .eveSWlWLug .eveaenWncnuh cnebil csevcTekiT

WdcnumeLuairid iawgElWm IkwaWrczwx utwxiawa unUmczwmim .evekeairetcnuyil cscnWlIrcf urInwk IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia .evemIhwr caudcbwa

112

udihWz udwmchwa :rwfWrcgOTof

VARA 01

Whcaerwhwa cswkwaemcnok .eveaemcsevilcSokcmwKwz egulWh im iawgcaemWrcgorcp IvIT cnirukcswvud iaWncniriawk Iaim urWhim cnuhwfikcaed cawturwzcnwm urUhcxwm cSwrwv WrukctwrWyiz cSwaea cnuhIm cnurud .eveawfevInwvim cSwkwCcaea .evencniawtcaivwh IlWmcnin cnemerwhwa cswvud csua uTUf cSwkwscaiv wmwhIaea iawgumunefwncnef utWgukwhIm urwh eguSwr ukwmwkea .evekeNcnufcswf egunurwg wnwv 12 cnIdWlIm Iaea wmwnifiawhwa egumurubnea cSwnIdcmWlcsia ejcaWr iawguLokuhwf egcnuhIm egunId cTcsiDub unuLua iawgIruk .eveaedenub ukeaiaWmwkcnIgwy iawgumwkcaerwswa cnwrufWmwdWm IawyidcSwaeg uriaunuscaoauria enWdcnwlwb csevidwa .eveawgumunEb egumuvurWycawt caekwtwkwhWv urwviawb iaWkwnwt cnwtcawtea urutia .eveawgukea cseviaWkwmuvwred egumwkenWncnuh csevcaea cnehea wdwfea iawgEjcaWr Ikwkwlumcawvuf itIr Itwrudug .evekeSwr utWfwt ctencaeSwr WviawfiverukwgwhWf caeLokcnwt emcnok cnukwturwzcnwm egukwturwswa iaWtwfWgws egEjcaWr .evekeDnwgcswf iawguSwr .eveaWnWzwK caea Wnwdurwh emcnea idwa caeTOsir wtwvun caelwToh egIrwtcswf .evekekwtWrwscnWmehem egcaedwdwa udwm Iruh .eveten iawliked cnwkihevid egEjcaWrihevid ukwmwkea ihevid Ikwkwlumcawvuf cnwlcSokurwvoyeh whwrihevid .evekerihWvwj cniaeret egukwtcSwr

cnwtcnwtIKIrWt eguSwrea cnemerwhwa uhwvudcaenwa wmwtwruf .eveaIfih cSwycaukurWk cnWdcnwliawlwb iawgIrukcSwrwv Iaim .eveSwSod oaevwSwv Iawyid iruhiawfWdwhcnerea .evekevev iruhiawfWdwh cSokcSwv cnegiawgwnWDnwk iawgulwg iaWLofWg egulwg oaevea .evenuverukwgwhWf cnuheruk WviawfWhwruk emcnea iruhiawguSwr Iawyidcned iawfWliawlwb .eveSwSodctikcsimcaeg Wviawgumwkctikcsim iLukcsum Inwdcsevidwa cnwtim WviawfWdwh cnulwg cSokitIrcSwrwv InwveretitOg .evencnumeverukcnunEb wrihim iawgutikcsimim iawgutogEvenub .eveSokurihWt iawgunwkurwtwh iawgunwf eguLwv cnwkcserwtwh egiawkwhWvea cnemerwhwa .eveawhwrurwtwh utWfwtInwl .evekedet .evemIrukctwkcawswm cnwlwbudetugod utWfwt egunwkurwtwh ukwmwkea .everIm cSwrwv cnef .evenugEnwmwh cSwkWrukikwv cnwlWtcawn cnWdnwh emcneawmwh iawgukwlumcawvuf WrwaiLur ekedcnunehcnwa Iviawgumwk caemwk Ugwdnua uriawncnefcSwlol Ikwrwviruh egItEa .evelWhctwr .eveaenwgiawhwf itEa cnutwhwf egcnunehcnwa cswawyid cSwairiawk emcnwtik ukwnehirif .eveaevOn caemutwgiawLwt WrwacSwywg caemuawaiLur Wycaivukwnehcnwa ukwmwkea .eveawlun caeawLwa uriaWLwtWhed enwgiawrwacsiawa ifuf csiawaiLur .eveawlWSokEl IdWlwmwh cniSwk egiawfed cnehWdwh egcnemerwhwa cnumwrukWjwm cnumeh iawgulwjwmim Wh .eveaivireviawb iawgumwkea csevcnemcnea csevcnwtunuLua cnegivevun ctwmWlws WmItwgiawvcaud Wh im cniruk caeLokcswvud egIm .evenunef iawf egukwnehcnwa wredubIswn cnegiawhwjcSok

:cswvud wnwvcnit eretuSwr cnemerwhwa uhwvudiawa cnegihej egcnemerwhwa .evemIvudet uhitwf cSwrwv cnWdcnwlwb cSokcsEdWa enub utWg cnuhImcsImikea cnirevukea irukurWycawt WdOh cnukwtogIvcSwkwhImea iaWncnegidnek emcnea iawguSwrea .eveaItukin iawgukwtulwkiaws eguSwrea .evelwkiaws IkwdnwLua umwgcaea umcaWa csevIkwairikwa uLwk wncnuh iawgutWrwf urutuauria irikwa uDnwb iawgubWsihim .evekeCcaea EverukwgwhWf iawgulwdwb egumwkuduh wncnuh iawgIDnut Inwncnuh cnukWtcnehea iawgEjcaWr Iaim .eveawgiawlukuLwk .eveaenWdivenub csevEkeCcaea wncnefun inwhinwh egubWsih Obcswg idwa uawv wlwhwkim .evemIawyid cnumwvcaud iawfWlcnukwtugwm ukwbiDwj wncnwdcSwr iawguSwrim cSwkwtcnuvcaud egukwtcSwr egEjcaWr .eveaevcnunEb cnehemcnok ignEncnWd iLoaugwm iawgcaeSwrea iawgEret egukwtcSwrudwm EhejcnWvIh urib egumwkenWdilcaeg .eveaenEnemih cSwrim iawgEret cnemerwhwa uriactukin cnWdcSwDnwd wlwa WmIlwh iaWSwkwaWbirujwt utWfwt .evehiawa irubnea Ibit cnwlcSokctwkcawswmea iawlirea cSwkwLoawlwa cSwlwjwm csogcnuSodctib egukwtinIfoyek .evemiawyid WmIlwh .evenuved cSwawmwh iaWkwLoawlwa uDobcSwrwv wrehea .evekeLoa egcaeawbcawtea Iaim .evenidiawyik inevea cSwawmwh iaWhwg wrihim cnukwhwg inevim iaWkur wncnef wrehea cnuhwg WvEmwrihim ,egWhIm csogcnehim ,egcaeaeg inevea Iaea cSwawmwh .eveaiSef cnEdcSokulIsufwt ubWsiheaiLum eguDwsik .evemInurea cSwLoa cnemerwhwa eruvcSwLuhwDuk egiawf WmInurea cSwaeretegumwkcswkwC iaWtog enWrufua cswgwlwa .eveaeruhcnef cSwCcawm iawfWgwn iawlcSokirub iawbIvcSwawlwa wtwvun iDnog cnumediawyik WmIlwh ctogIvcnwhwj cnulwairuk IkwrWyitwh wncnoa iawgutwa .eveawyidcneg cnumwkcawd urwhwf caeawb cnumor cnumeh .eveaiLwv inwkeawmwh .evemIDnekwlwa csevcnumevenwgiawvwlcaELwh .eveairuk Wbirujwtea csevcnemcnea egcnemerwhwa iawfiaWtwa csogcSwSodcaeLwv iruh iawgnWtea iawguSwr Iawyidcned cnegevod cSwkwbWsih uDnwgcnef Wyik EaiLukwrWDcnwb cniLuked wncnoa erukcnuDnwgcnefed uDob emcnea Iaea .eveSwairiawk egukwtcswgulwv .evenwt wncnoa iawgILwfunuked

urwhwf wnigcSwrwv iawgutog egcaenWdnwh cnuhIm wncnwa cnuDnwk .eveaev iawgumwk caeCcaeaWdcneg cSwDnwgcswfuSwr iawfiawgwn iawliLoh uLWr iteDob egunwt cSwkwailcauk cnuDwa wdwfwdwg WlWrugum .eveaed cnegiten cSwtugwvea cnwkcnEmihwmwh OtEverukWkcawr iawgWremek wlcaimwa urwzcnwmea .eveawyidcneg cnumwrukctwkcawswm cnemcnea :cswvud wnwved unudneh IfWgws ISef cswvud wnwved egcnemerwhwa WmIlwh .evencninuhcswm / iSor Wviawgumwkcaeaws inuhcswm iaWTcSor cnuhImuSwrea iawgutogEdenub wncnoacSwrea .eveawgnWtWh 1960 ISefcnwrukcnunEb unudneh egcnuhImea cnirukEgEa eruhWmwkirehwkea Iaea .eveawlwa ikcaek csevIkwDnwgiawm egiaws EveLugcneg iawgcaekwtcswvudwnig evuniawbun .evekeaWnWk cSwaiDnut Iawyidcned cnegiawfihcnuaek egurudcnem cnEmihea egurIvwh Iaim iawgIDnut .eveSwkinukip eguSwr .evekekwtutugwv utWfwtcniLum iaWkwtutugwv csiawa cSwrwv iLOkiLOk csevcawtcnuhIm ikeaikea cawtWfua cnumwkumiawgctih Itwrudug eguSwr wlcaimwa emcnok cnuhImea urWhim Iaim .eveaInwdcneg cnumwdOh eguCIb .eveaev iawgumwk caelwfua csevegukwhwvud csevcSwkwrwviLOk emcnok cniaeawgWj cswvwnwt ItWviawfId caemwk cnwvinim wlcaimwa WvcnegISwkea cnegiawlcSokuDwm uDnwgiawbikea iawgubWsihikea cniaea csiawacnegiawfihcnwf cnuSodcaur .eveaebit cnirevcnehcnwa caeawb .eveaenwgibil ctwyWmih egcnuhImea cnumwkcawd cawtwkwhWvWjwm emcnea egurWhim uriaWdwh evudemufeLuk iawgnWtea cnirwdiduk .eveaedcnegcnumwlwb ELUnELua iaWaWvunWv cnemerwhwa iawgumwh ukiTcsWlup Whwjiawv egudwmuhwa .evemInuLua cnwrukufrws ukwhIm ukwrwhwf WLokuriauria .evenUncaenwt wlwhwkEdehWtwfIm cSwDnwgunof Wmuker cnukwtuLWr iteDobwyib WlWrugum emWhea .evekenwt EverukWjwm wdwfcnulWmcnuf .evekenwtEhejcneLua cnegeviretWkcawr EvelcSokwgwhWf emcnea Wviawgukwlumcawvuf IkwaiDnut iawgcaemwkWhiruh egnWtea .evenwt WviawfevurUhcxwm egcaehwvud cnegevudwm cnwruk csWsuhia umWrwa Ikwnwtea .eveaenWvcnunEb cnwdurwtwh wmwhiruf umcaihum csevegukwtcnuvulwdcawb IAWmujia cnutog egumuyik Wbwhurwm cSwhwmwdOr .evekezwkurwm iteDobWvcaea cnehcnemcnea uSwr wdwfcnufehWm WvcaWb .eveawgnWtea csevInwvcaWb cawtcnuvcaea

113

VARA 01

.eveSwauDnUt cniawvuruhwb uSwrea ,iDnut wncnoa iawgcaetogumcaWa cnimcsua egukwtcSwr egcaenwtea cawlumcawvuf iawgEjcaWrim wncnuhun csevcaerwTIm urwTImcnit eruvcSwDnwgunol eguDnwk Inenemih .eveawgumwk caeSwr ivinurukcnWriawh ctoacSokcsua Inwncnoa iawfevcnwfua caeCcawmiritwa wdwfEvenwgiawLwa Obiawb udnwLua egcnemerwhwa .eveawkwTcSwbwbwsim ukeaWmwkwtirwf cniaeret egukwtcswgulwv iaWkwtcaur iaWdUm eguDnwgcswfuSwr IlcSokuDwm csogcnumwvcaud .eveawgItwm wlwSwf iriawk emcaea

114

Iaim .eveaIawyid cSwairit cnegiawbiawf cnemerwhwa cawtcaur WgcnisWm ugid .evekenwt wdwfWvunihUfWlwb cSwtWrwfed cnegeruhiawguSwf iriawk eguDnwgcswf cSokumcaWa cnuSwrcSwr .eveaed cnumeleh cnuDwmuDwm csogItoauCIb ukeaiaWkwtirikwa egurwvikea wncnef Wrwaufoa cnWmoa cSwrwv cnunwtim .eveawfWboa cawtuLokirikwa wncnuh cSokcSwv idwa uduhWhea WrukctwrWyiz cSwSwrim cniruk Iaea .evenunef

VARA 01

caemwk wmwhiruf urutia cSwaeretitOgea cswgubnwa cnumedeh idwa iaWaiLot ,Obnul ,csurim .eveaed .eveTcauh iawgubWsih ikea caurcaur iduk wncnwa cnulWmid iaWNcnIfoyek iruhiawgcaetWrwfcaea WmIlwh WhImirev egEgea Inuveruk wgwhWfcned ikih Inwdcnwa .evenwt Wdcnumwdcnwa inuk WsIa cawtctwvWb cnehea wdwfea iaWCcaekwtWk .evekwtctwvWb iSev .eveaInwluLwv cSwaWnWk egukwtcswg cnehea Inwvim iawgumuLuairidim ctwkcawswm egumurukWkcawr .eveawfinemih irev Ivemcnirwd 4 ibitiawfeviteDob egWmIlwh cnuhImea cSokUdcnwt umiawgctihim .eveawguSwr .eveSWdOh WfIzwv iaWSEnegnua umIlWt Itwm Iawaid cnuhIm caeawb edniaWnuhIm IbiturWhim cnuhImea iawgITcauCEbil .evencnegihejwmwh iawSwfirWfwyiv cnehea caekwtea eguSwrea .eveaedWa cSwSwr .evencniawdwfcaea EkencnunWvuz cnegiaobiaws ukeaiaWaWkideh urIm iawacnegevWyiduLuk iawguLokurutua emcnea eguSwrea Iawyid cnemerwhwa

egEjcaWr Ikwaeg egIrwTokcswfibit cnemerwhwa emcnea iawgutwbcsin egEyinud idwa Wrukcnwkirev iawvuLwa iaWkwaeg egElWm Wviawgumwk cSwrcaea Obiawb egidwb .evekeaeg cswvwnwt uDobcSwrwv uriaWlwb cnehinehea WvcnunEb iaWkwtiletiSwt InWmwz egurWhim iawguhwgwruf .evehwvwnwt Whea ukeaiaWCcaekwt Iruk cnubwbws egumwkwmWh wncnoa cSwaeretitOgurEb iawgumwk unuveruk csWsuhia urwswa egunWmwz iawgEjcaWr eruscaIruk IruhiawgurEb .evehevcswaiv cswm cned .evekeCcawfilOj WrukcnunEb iawtwg .evekenwt WviawfWdwh ukeaWkwkcnis cnwdwh WDnwk Wrukcniruk egumukcaek csevcnehea iaWmunEginuh .eveawgiawbim Inwruk cawtctwkcawswm wmwtwruf cnirevcnehcnwa csevukwhwvud Whiruh ibit cnemerwhwa wtwvun cSokWjwm ebitcnwlWkcawd wkwhWv Wtea csiawa cSwrwv Iaea ItWdwh IdeviretIhea iawgumukcaek .eveaiv cSwkwnwt irevWfua urwvoyeh egElWm iawgEretitOg Wviawgutwhwf egEg wgWj WhEvelWTcawhwb cniawhEswf cseneg caeaeg iruhukeaWkwtifoa Wviawfevurwb WLwaubnwa .eveaevoa

irevuDnwd egWyiDcnia wtwvun Wkcnwl IneveLuaim InUn .eveaevurwvWrwacSwtih cniawhEswf idWd EawgcaebWsih ukeaiaWmwkWzWt Inedeh cawtcswg iawguSwrim egWnWk WviawguDnwgcswf eguSwrim .evencnokihef Inwvimiawfinemih cnwkirevuDnwd ukeaWmwkidnwscaum ELuairid iawguSwrea caekwtWfcnwm uLwgnwr cnumebil cSwkwywbwnig erukcnuhIm csWhwhid .eveawgumwkcaemwkwncnwa

ilwbctih Ikwmuaid iawguCcnOl uDIpcsia cSwSwrea Iaea ukwmwkea .evenUncaemwk egurwvWv cSwkwncnuhIm iawgEjcaWr Iaea .evekerutwd uLwgnwr cnwlcSok Iaea .eveSwr caea utWfwt iaWawdWaemcnea ctoa .eveLotwa Enemih caeSwr emcnea inwkeawmwhctoa urwTImOlik 1.2 idwa ugid urwTImOlik4.5 iawgEjcaWr IkwSwrim ukeaiaWmuruh iawgunimWLuf .eveSwr uDobemcnea cSwawnwvcnit

iruhiawguSwvwa uDWnuf Iawyid cnemurwhwa unuked eguSwr IkwSwvwaea .eveSwaeg egWyiretctwmuhwr Inunef cniaeretitOg egEgea .eveSwvwa utWrwf Evehejwmwhctih iaWmwkubIturwt iaWmwkurihWtufWs egiawdWa eguSwrea Itoa cSwaeretitOgiLum .evekwtctog idukidukufWs Iaim .eveawfiawl "ilevWscaIb" cnitwm eretitOg .evekeCcaea cnWmoawncnuh cnehcaekwtirikwa cnuhIm eguSwrea IkwmuvcaEb cSokurihWt cSokitIr urwhwfed ukwrwhwa .evekemwk WvirevuruKwf cSwrwv ilevim cnitwmiritwa utWrwf urutua eguSwr iawLwa cSwaeretitOg egEgEg cseneg iawgInOginOg .eveaeviawgumwk Wrutwf

iaWSwm ibitiawfevilwburwv ukeaiaWmubEfcSwSwr cSwkwrwvwrwnwf iawgcaepwkip cnireviawb Egwm uhwfcSwkwmulWvcaud ununef caekwturwzcnwm eguTenim iawgItwmugwm .eveaIawaid cSwaeg Ebitcnemurwhwa iaWbnwa Wviawfevcaidilea cSwrwvurwvikea iaWkwtctwf iaWkwtirukcnwf egukurcaur iaWlEkubnwb ,Wbcnwkuaik uriawyid cnumwlif cnumwvirit ,ideh idwa ,iSwb ,csurimOr ,ujebek ,cTerek ,OTWmoT .eveawyidcnumwncnef cnukwtuDnwd cawtcswg WyimWb egItwmiritwa Iawyidcnumwncnef cnubWsih caeawb iaWkwtuDnwd ihefim .evekwturwzcnwm iaWkwturwswa Iaim cniawhEswf cSwrwv cnumunef cawtuDnwgWruk

idwa iaWkwtuLWr Wdcnumwrugum iaWkwtinWb iteDob umcaWa Ikwmuten caeCcawmiritwa cnWmoa cnEmihwmwh wncnuh WliawSwv caeSwr egEjcaWrihevid iawgcaetog cawlumcawvuf iawgukwtcswvud wyidevutwaev .evemwkcnwk cSwnuked egEjcaWr .evemwkcnwkim IscaejcnWvirehwkea 2003 iawguSwrim wncnoa cnikwvcniLum iawguLokwyid cnIruk egumudeh caerwdnwb enWrufWfwl urwhwa wnwv .evencnuhImudwmidWd Inwdwh cSokctwrWyiz cSwSwrim iawfcSokiriawk iaWSwr csogiawguTOb InehejurEa iawfWhwjilwf Wrukcaobea cnegiawbiawf cSwaWrukcaob iawguLokcnwtea .eveSWdcneg cSwawmwh iaWSoduDnog cnubwbws egurwviaoa wdwg Emed iaWkwtuLWr wncnuh EhejcnwTcawhwfih WvEn InwdcnegevuLokutugwvim iminWdwhurwdnwb .eveSwkwLokutugwv iretWkcawrun wdwfivencnedim cSwSwrea iawgutWycaimcswr egumuvuLuh iawgutwkcawswm irukcnwbiawf iawgulwkcawrun iawgunWdnwh egcnuhIm caekwtea wyidevurwm .evenuveneg caemwkcnEmih eguTenimcaea itIrcnusUm csevudwaim urWhim idwa cnuLotwauDcawa wncnoacnegihej InUniawgcaehwvuduDwm

115

VARA 01

116

VARA 01

.evenUncaeSwr inwkeawmwh Iaea wlcaimwa .eveaemcsevcaeLotwa Iaea .evekeawbirev egcaeawvuruhwbihevid cnurutwd egWrczwx utwxiawa Iawyidcnegevwfis cSwrea cSwaWnEa wnig eruvcSwkwhWh egEjcaWr ukwlumcawvuf cniaeret egukwtcSwriduk eguSwrea inwkeawmwh InevelcSok wgwhWf .evemwkcnUn ukwnimuDob

ufWliK WywdWa

cawlumcawvuf 117

VARA 01