Come with us and have a French taste at MGM’s “Aux Beaux Arts” Chef Justin Quek has cooked for world stars and public figures. In Macau he shares the experience and the knowledge, with us! Cheers! Portuguese wine goes strong on the Asian market
breakdown By the Numbers
Taking everything into count!
150
The number of restaurants in Tokyo that received at least one star Michelin. The Japanese city is the most awarded in the world.
25
The number of Michelin stars received by Joel Robuchon, the most awarded chef in the world by Michelin.
MOP 250,000
The most expensive meal in 2009 for a group of 15 people.
MOP1,500,000
The cost of the wine list that accompanied the bill of the most expensive meal for the same group of 15 people group.
1825
The world’s oldest bottle of champagne from PerrierJouet.
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1838
The year of the coronation of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and the first Empress of India of the British Raj.
Once again Essential has the opportunity the sit down with the most wanted restaurants chefs in the world. In this issue we discover some of the culinary secrets of Chef Justin Quek from Singapore, and the delights of the French cuisine of Antoine Perray served at “Aux Beaux Arts Brasserie”. We explore the French “savoir-vivre” with a friendly conversation with MauriceRichard Hennessy, ambassador of the cognac house Hennessy, and join him in tasting the new Opus 140 from the Hennessy X.O. Exclusive Collection. Less exclusive, but nevertheless popular, we go in search of the best places to cheer for the national teams playing in South Africa in the Football World Cup. As an exclusive opportunity for Essential, in this issue we offer our readers a feature fully dedicated to Portuguese Wines. Held at the Macau Science Centre, the Viniportugal exposition gathered 22 Portuguese producers for a wine tasting of 200 bottles that will be launched in the Asian market. At the event, Essential interviewed the man responsible for Viniportugal, Francisco Borba. As a complement to this interview we feature the main Portuguese wine producers, as well as their top choices. The cherry on top of the cake this month is shaped like sushi and served in the flesh...yes we’re talking about our sex and food section. Like you couldn’t guess....
Wine Cork
Wine Screw Top
Has a long history, it has been used as the sealing method of There should always be an alternative. choice for over 400 years. And this one is pretty good! They’re a renewable resource (the trees are not killed when the Screw caps imply environmental issues associated with the bark is stripped to make cork). They’re readily biodegradable. loss of cork farming. Not a pretty picture. And they support an entire industry of corkscrews and other corkremoval products...and some of these corkscrews are so classy! Wine corks often go bad and everyone goes bad along with them. Hail to the future! There is no danger Estimates vary depending on which figures you believe, from as they will spoil or “taint” the wine. little as 1 percent or to as much as 20 percent of all wine sold is “corked,” which is to say, damaged by a problematic cork. Wine corks can be difficult to remove, and sometimes break off It’s good to open a bottle of wine in an easy way. into the bottle...and that’s bad! Besides, no special skill is required to remove it. According to several independent surveys, wine consumers buy They are less expensive than natural corks. wine sealed with natural cork over any other method. IIt’s elegant! And sometimes a bottle of wine is all about romance Industrial touch, cheap look and totally from the opening until the last drop. lacking romantic allure!
Seven deadly sins you should avoid when going out to restaurants GLUTTONY - More, More, More. An overzealous orderer can turn a friendly dinner into a silent battleground. Nothing grates like covering the costs of Mr. Surf-and-Turf, especially if the rest of the group is on a budget. GREED - Duty Calls. And Emails. And Texts. Our connected culture creates a class of permanently “on” employees. However, people who take work-related calls over a social dinner should be relegated to a special “Cell Phone Section” similar to smoking sections. LUST - Love To Love You - In Public. Ah, the restaurant PDA (Public Display of Affection). In small doses, this phenomenon is sweet -- the young couple cuddling in the corner, the married twosome stealing a kiss over their anniversary dinner. But when passion goes overboard, and cute canoodling turns to heavy groping, everyone’s uncomfortable -- helpless waitstaff included. SLOTH - Lazy Parenting. Children shouldn’t be excluded from dining out, and their natural exuberance is refreshing, but there seems to be a new generation of permissive parents who let their
kids run wild, treating servers like free babysitters and assuming everyone in the restaurant shares their tolerance for high-pitched screaming. ENVY - Entrée Jealousy. Let’s say you’re the type of person whose default order is “Salad, with dressing on the side”. Good for you! However, once you receive your commendably healthy dish, it’s poor form to then stare down your companion’s steak until they offer you a bite, then another bite, until they finally just slice you a big hunk in order to eat in peace. WRATH - Breaking Bread & Breaking Up. If you’re going to have the breakup conversation, the savvy move is to do it in private. This way, the hysterics, sobbing, recrimination, insults, groveling, and violent outbursts needn’t be experienced by the dining public at large. PRIDE - Narcissism Gone Wild. If it’s your birthday or bachelorette party or divorce party and you’ve decided to cut loose, more power to you! However, drinking your weight in Grey Goose and dancing on tables, screaming song lyrics, and requesting body shots from the waiter are in the realm of nightclub activity.
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FEATURE
Some details make all the difference!
Power and refinement, a heavenly balanced combination
Eaux-de-vie H
ennessy, the world’s leading cognac house has proudly launched its latest Hennessy X.O Exclusive Collection, Opus 140, as a tribute to its legendary eXtra Old cognac, for its 140th anniversary. To manifest the grandeur of Opus 140, each bottle is individually numbered. 140 years ago in 1870, Maurice Hennessy, the visionary grandson of Richard Hennessy, the founder of the house, created the original eXtra Old cognac in France. This subtle symphony of over 100 rare and matured eaux-de-vie (waters of life) was widely acclaimed as a work of art.
Interview with
Maurice-Richard Hennessy Born in Paris on 11th April 1950, Maurice-Richard Hennessy spent his childhood years in Cognac. A direct descendant of the founder of the Hennessy Company, he belongs to the eighth generation of the prestigious family that came to France from Ireland in 1765. 84
A delicate balance between power and refinement, Hennessy X.O is very masculine, delivering full-bodied and peppery warmth spiced with cloves, with old leather undertones softened by delicious hints of vanilla, cinnamon and candied fruits. For the past 140 years, the Fillioux family, whose ancestors have been master blenders at Hennessy since 1800, has been transmitting the secrets of creating this exceptional cognac from generation to generation. The dual-family dynasty of the Hennessy’s and Fillioux’s has played a significant part in maintaining the fine quality of Hennessy X.O. Now, as a tribute to Hennessy X.O’s 140th anniversary, Opus 140 is a magnified interpretation of the emblematic carafe which was designed in 1947. Its form was inspired by an upside down grape bunch, and decorated with the very vines from which this rare cognac was born. Whether consumed straight or on the rocks, each tasting “will reveal a whole new experience in fine cognac”, according to Hennessy. The House of Hennessy has long established its place in the exclusive world of luxury and refinement. As the International Brand Ambassador and representative of the illustrious family’s eighth generation, Mr. Maurice-Richard Hennessy continues the legacy of his name, becoming an honorary City of Dreams ambassador for style and luxury. To commemorate this perfect alliance of opulence and leisure, Mr. Hennessy presents the latest addition to the Hennessy X.O Exclusive Collection, Opus 140, a creation to celebrate the 140th Anniversary of Hennessy X.O, to be displayed at City’s of Dreams’ signature restaurant, Horizons.
Cognac is undoubtedly a part of your life. What was it like to be born into such an environment? It is true! The Cognac gene is firmly established in my DNA, but along with that I’ve nourished a love for the Charente countryside, vine-growing and fine gastronomy. Besides growing up in the ambiance of Cognac, I was trained as an agronomical engineer at the Institute for Technical and Practical Agriculture, and after several years spent doing voluntary development work in Africa, I returned to Cognac in 1975 to join my family firm. Once back to my own roots I was given an in-depth training in all the Hennessy professions, from distillation to bottling, as well as commercial and marketing activities.
Today you are the ambassador for Hennessy, meaning that you take part in most of the prestigious events on behalf of the brand. Does the travelling still inspire your work? I represent Hennessy with pride and I try to do it as elegantly as the Cognac I represent. In a most natural way, I’ve became the incarnation of the brand in the markets and I surely assume my role, being not only familiar with the history of the company but most of all with the Cognac. The places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting to promote the Hennessy brand, have shown me how universal the enjoyment of aesthetics and life’s pleasures is.
Would you say that luxury is an universal language? Yes, it is. And I am happy to see the appreciation everywhere in China now. Just take the OPUS 140’s presence at City of Dreams Horizon’s. This is and will be an appeal to luxury seekers across all of Asia.
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Fine Dining in Macau
We spot the right places and the right people!
Sooo French! T
here’s nothing like the charm and romance of a cosy French brasserie in Paris, where diners linger over classics like escargots and moules marniéres while sipping a glass of wine as the world passes by. Now, that experience has been created at MGM Macau, through its signature French brasserie, Aux Beaux Arts. Capturing the elegant atmosphere and casual sophistication of a 1930s brasserie, the restaurant features dark wood panelling, and cast iron coat and umbrella racks hanging over indoor tables. Completing the look and feel of the experience are the thick wooden tables around which guests enjoy authentic French cuisine showcasing well-known favorites as well as innovative, contemporary creations. MGM Macau has brought the traditions and heritage of French cooking directly to Macau through the exquisite menu at Aux Beaux Arts. Already noted in the press for its unparalleled authenticity, Aux Beaux Arts is destined for gastronomic greatness. Situated along the Grande Praça where guests and visitors mix and mingle, patio seating for afternoon tea provides diners with a relaxing way to enjoy the incredible architecture around the Grande Praça, and an opportunity to sample the spectacular dishes on offer. The evening provides a completely different and unique perspective, when the sky is dark and the candles on the tables are lit, the soft glow inside the restaurant take on a magical feel. Light and casual or romantic and elegant, the aura of the restaurant offers tables along the patio for a casual meal, special configurations for entertaining corporate clients, and quiet corners for a lovers’ tête-à-tête. Whether diners prefer the brasserie feel or the piazza dining option on the Grande Praça, the exceptional food will keep one and all lingering over the last few morsels on the plate. A phenomenal wine list with rare old and new world wines caters to even the most sophisticated gourmand’s tastes. Exquisite to the last bite, make sure to leave room for an incredible cheeseboard and selection of dessert wines. Be prepared to be wowed.
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Savoir-Faire et Faire-Savoir E
ssential sits down with Chef Antoine Perray for a quick interview. Once again we are able to meet a fascinating professional serving Macau the most amazing meals in town! What’s the most important aspect of your work? The flexibility. At “Aux Beaux Arts” the cuisine is very flexible, meaning the staff can go from a small paste meal to a fine dining meal with the same focus and the same high quality standard. The ingredients we use are exceptional, whether it’s a more sophisticated fine dining meal or a more casual one. This flexibility in cooking a wide standard range of meals allows the client several options without ever having to choose one meal because of the quality of the ingredients, for that is assured! What makes your cuisine special? Besides me? (laughs) Everything! Cooking for me is an expression of Art. It has to come from the heart and that’s the only way to be involved in such work as this. We have to respect the ingredients, we have to understand how the products are to be cooked and presented to the client. This focus is vital for successful cuisine and therefore, for such a restaurant as this one. Also, the chef and his team have to be very professional, have to respect each other and be perfectly tuned. I’m glad that at “Aux Beaux Arts” we’ve reached this stage. This is not just a restaurant, “Aux Beaux Arts” has become a concept! Does being a French Chef for an Asian public mean changing many aspects of your cuisine? Well, in these types of situations, of course some changes are due. We have to adapt ourselves, adapt our cuisine to this new public. We try to adapt our most traditional ideas and roots and adapt them to the Asian point of view. For instance, trying to serve it in a different way, taking a different approach without damaging the soul of our own traditions. This is a very exciting creative exercise that allows us to show what we do best, using the clients’ parameters of knowledge and cultural understanding. Would you share one of your cuisine secrets with us? Savoir-faire at faire-savoir! To let your team understand your passion and your philosophy by sharing your knowledge is half way to making things work well!
Chef suggests To choose is never an easy task, so we’ve asked Chef Antoine Perray to pick some of the MGM Aux Beaux Arts specialities for us to make sure your choice is the best one!
Nicoise Salad
Fresh blue fin tuna, tomato confite, romance salad, soft boiled egg, French bean, anchovies, black olives and potatoes. Pairing Wine
Oliver Merlin, La Roche Vineuse 2005 Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre 2007
Foie Gras
Foie gras, French summer truffle, sauterne jelly, brioche and baby cress Pairing Wine
Domaines Schlumberger, Pinot Gris Cuvee Clarisse 2000 Paul Jaboulet, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise Le Chant des Griolles 2006
Duck
Whole French duck, Butter confite potatoes, orange sauce and sechuan pepper Pairing Wine
Robert Arnoux, Nuits St Georges Les Poisets 2004 Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Corton Les Bressandes 2001
Antoine Perray
Born and raised in Normandy, France, Antoine Perray’s fascination with learning how to cook the amazing food he ate every day took root very early on, and has led him to his position as the Chef de Cuisine at MGM MACAU’s authentic Parisian brasserie, Aux Beaux Arts. Perray has come to Macau from Paris, where he was formerly Group Executive Chef for Murano Resorts’ renowned, avant-garde restaurants in both Paris and Marrakech. Prior to taking on a regional role, Perray’s fine-tuned talents in the kitchen afforded him the opportunity to work with Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, most famous for their three Michelin star restaurant in Paris. Perray was responsible for opening the AmeriKlub restaurant in the Mediterranean town of Sète, France, an experience that showcased his culinary and managerial skills, turning the restaurant into an award-winning destination for fine cuisines. Always looking for new ways to prepare incredible dishes, Perray previously worked at a boutique, luxury hotel in Propriano, Corsica. There he learned the art of mixing and matching fresh ingredients in a whole new way – with a Mediterranean style of cooking, reflected of the Italian culinary arts. Perray began at the famous Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, where he discovered Chef Ducasse’s worldrenowned talents in creating gastronomic delights. He moved within the group as Chef de Partie at the Byblos St. Tropez in the summer and Byblos Courchevel in the winter. In his early years, Perray was trained at the Hôtel de Crillon, one of Paris’ most prestigious hotels. It was here at the Hôtel deCrillon, after hard work and training at Auberge in the French countryside, that he learned the true art of French gastronomy. Perray’s journey in culinary arts is one that continues today, creating fabulous, sumptuous meals at Aux Beaux Arts, bringing his experience in the traditions and customs of French cooking to MGM Macau.
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Fine Dining
Enjoy your future meal...
Star Class Dinner
Highly regarded as one of Asia’s top French cuisine master chefs, Justin Quek is well known for his creativity and his very own fusion cuisine. For a couple of days, Justin Quek stayed in Macau to showcase his excellence in culinary creativity in a very special occasion
W
ith over 20 years of culinary work experience, you have served some of the most important people nowadays. Can you tell us about some of those experiences?
Some celebrities and national leaders have tried my cooking, especially while I was working in the French Embassy in Singapore. I’ve cooked for the former Prime Minister of Singapore Mr Lee Kuan Yew, the former Prime Minister of People’s Republic of China Jiang Zemin, the Co-founder of Microsoft Bill Gates and Nobel Peace Prize Laureatte Dr. Henry Kissinger. However on all
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of these occasions the food was not really the issue and as a chef I have to take that important detail into account. These types of dinners, are not for meal opulence, but for the guests to focus on what they are discussing and achieving, so as a Chef I kept track of this limitation. Most of these people have eaten all of the best products and the best meals with all of the mise en scene, so I chose to take a very low profile path. On these occasions I do very simple food, with high efficiency and precision. The food is not the focus of the occasion, it’s just another intervenient.
Can you tell us a little bit about this special occasion in Macau? StarWorld invited me to showcase my culinary creations to their VIP guests at the “StarWorld Star Class Dinner”. Dinners will be served at the Grand Ballroom and the menu implies an exquisite 5-course tailor-made menu. Besides the gourmet food, I’ve given also all of my attention to the fine wines choice. Macau is a very exciting city. Although there is more Chinese street food than gastronomical food it is definitely a place where you can find a mélange of cuisines, of tastes, of products and clients needs. Can you share one of your Chef secret’s with us? I always choose the best products. I’m very loyal to my suppliers and they give me the highest product quality in return! Quality and healthy food are my focus and the main points on my priorities list. Another secret is understanding the clients. I customize to what my clients want and need, so that I can balance my work with their expectations, creating an harmonious and interdependent relationship.
JUSTIN QUEK
Justin Quek was born in Singapore. His specialty is in French cuisine. He is Singapore’s most internationallyknown chef and the first Asian chef invited to participate in Lufthansa’s Star Chefs program. Quek had always wanted to travel. After his National Service in Singapore, at 20 years old, Quek managed to get a job as a steward. It was after two years as a seaman that led him to his passion of cooking. He then went on to learn the basics of cooking at the Singapore Hotel and Tourism Education Center (SHATEC) for one year. After his graduation in 1986, Quek continued his culinary training at The Oriental’s hotels in Bangkok and Singapore under chef Bertrand Langlet, who encouraged him to go to France to further his training. He returned to Singapore in 1992, taking the place of personal chef at the French Embassy, serving two high commissioners. Quek then opened Les Amis at Shaw House, Singapore. In 2004, he left Les Amis to establish a new restaurant called La Petite Cuisine in Taipei. He has since opened another French eatery La Platane, a fine-dining Chinese restaurant Villa du Lac and a restaurant named Fountain. All three are located at Xintiandi, Shanghai. He sold all his businesses in Shanghai in January 2009 and opened Just In Bistro & Wine Bar, Taipei in April 2009.
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Our monthly suggestion
The 2010 World Cup in South Africa is on. Macau has a world of suggestions for you to make this football journey a different one
World Soccer, the Star of the Month Until 18 July, StarWorld Macau is hosting the “StarWorld Soccer Mania” Promotion Campaign for all soccer fans and holiday-makers, offering live TV broadcasts of all matches on the indoor 855-inch mega LED screen and free flow of beer while watching the matches with all the soccer fans under one roof. Guests can also enjoy various food and beverage specials and join the lucky draws to have chances to win cash prizes and gifts such as free hotel accommodation, free dining coupons and free play vouchers. Also at Starworld, from 5 June to 15 July, guests can enjoy the “Buy-3-Get-1” promotion for Budweiser beer at the Whisky Bar, Temptations, Sensation and Lobby Lounge, as well as chances to win World Cup related souvenirs and a limited edition soccer jersey of the Brazil’s national football team. Taking a break between exciting soccer matches, guests can satisfy their taste buds at Sensations restaurant where interesting soccer themed dishes are offered, such as “MVP” (Sautéed Seafood with Capsicums in Whole Pineapple), “Golden Goal” (Deep-fried Shrimp Balls with Cheese) and “Hand of God” (Boiled Boneless Pork’s Knuckle in Black Pepper).
Color yourself blue
Soccer fever MGM is inviting every soccer fan to get close to the action and stay tuned at Veuve Clicquot Lounge for live broadcasts of the FIFA World Cup. Until the 12th of July, from 6pm to 4am special drinks will be served. Besides the traditional Carlsberg beer - the drink that from our point of view suits soccer the best - they’ve also created some inspired cocktails entitled “Goalkeeper”, “Free Kick”, “Crossbar” and “Hat Trick”. The cherry on top of the football is a sales cart set up on the terrace of Veuve Clicquot Lounge featuring South African Boerewors and condiments. Besides these promotions, MGM’s Rossio Restaurant is also serving a South African Daily Buffet Lunch and Dinner and at Lion’s Bar, the 11th of July is already anticipating the World Cup Championship Night Closing Party.
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Blue Frog Bar & Grill at The Venetian will be one spot not to miss during the World Cup 2010. With a huge screen to project the matches, plus all the TV screens it will be impossible to miss the goals. Besides, just like the competing teams, Blue Frog has beers from all over the world. Western cuisine from a sensational “on-stage theatre kitchen” at which chefs prepare choice imported steaks, chops, gourmet burgers and a variety of classic brunch fare. In addition to the grill, fresh salads, sandwiches, soups, pastas, appetizers and snacks are prepared to order and served until late into the night.
Food & Sex
New lunch concept “Bento by Sofitel” is a lunch concept that Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 has tailored for its guests by featuring a weekly refreshing menu of up to six premium main course choices, from French, South East Asian to Chinese dishes - Seafood Risotto, Indian Butter Chicken with Basmati Rice and Macanese Fried Rice, just to name a few. Accompanying it a bowl of Chinese or western soup, salad and your after-meal hot tea promise to deliver a quality yet express service, catching up with your modern lifestyle! Be it a business or casual occasion! Rolling out at the same time at Mistral is “So Healthy” lunch option. Cheer up your spirit and taste buds with the salad bar and soup whilst your eyes feast on the relaxing garden and river views at your al fresco table. The lunch promotion is currently on offer, 12pm - 3pm daily. “Bento by Sofitel” includes soup, salad, main course and hot tea (MOP 70), “So Healthy” includes soup and salad bar (MOP70).
Barbecue Night Summer Dream Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 is welcoming Summer in the most delightful way: with a very exquisite barbecue. Restaurant Mistral has introduced an outdoor BBQ at La Terrace, embracing the breeze of the Pearl River Delta and the magnificent swimming-pool area. In La Terrace the pool side dining area, guests are having an alfresco dining experience with fresh salads, Angus & Prime beef fillets, mouthwatering lobsters and seafood and luscious desserts for satisfying their culinary hearts. Sizzling BBQ steak, fine wine under the stars, impeccable service in a luxury French hotel. BBQ dinner will be served from 7pm to 10pm on every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. MOP130 for the gourmet salad bar & à la carte dessert plus your favorite BBQ main course ranging from MOP50. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a dinner night out...believe us!
Sushi, everyone!
Saturday night, might just be a different night for a blonde...or a brunette...or even both. Ladies all around the world found a enjoyable and very different way to use their bodies: as a human sushi platter. Watch out for the birth of a new trend! Naked under two roses and a large daisy placed you-know-where, the lady lays still for more than an hour as people pluck raw fish off her body at restaurants. You might expect a drooling crowd of male hedonists, but the diners -- evenly split between men and women, and ranging in age from 20s to 50s -- are calm and curious, though they did mingle about with ear-to-ear smiles, as if each had just won the Powerball. While some people call it “naked sushi,” the models, the restaurant proprietors and the chefs prefer the term body sushi, because the models aren’t nude -- they’re wearing flowers (and raw fish, of course). In Japan, it’s called nyotaimori (Japanese: 女体盛り), meaning “female body presentation”. Contrary to the United States and Europe, in Japan the practice is stigmatised and usually only to be found in “seedy sex clubs”. When it is presented overseas, however, it is marketed as “a form of Japanese food culture”. In these meals, the sushi chefs do try their best to keep up, but as soon they replace the eaten sushi, the new stuff disappears. Promoters, eating participants, and apologists to the practice often say that nyotaimori is a form of art. This argument is rejected by some feminists, who argue that it objectifies the woman or the man doing the serving.For public health reasons, China has outlawed food served on naked bodies. If by chance you get to go to one of these meals, don’t be surprised to hear something like: “it was the best piece of salmon I’ve ever had in my life”. To us, watching that “Sex and the City” movie scene when Samantha Jones makes sushi and covers her body with it for a Valentine’s Day present was a pretty good idea. Simple and sexy. What do you think?
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Featuring Portuguese Wine
Moving up
The events
Given these very satisfying numbers, Borba believes that his first time in Asia has paid off. “It was good to understand the market and the profitability of such events; to know the money we have invested has some return”, he says, adding: “I’m already going to prepare the programme for 2011.” Even though the year has not finished, Borba states that EUR400,000 are going to be invested. However at the next general
assembly of Viniportugal, the president intends to ask to reinforce next year’s budget. “I believe this market has a very big growth potential.” The money invested will be used for educational events around the region, in order to teach people how to appreciate wine.
Photo: John Si
M
acau’s market has potential to grow and Viniportugal president, Francisco Borba, intends to demand a bigger investment. Viniportugal is an association that strives for the promotion of Portuguese wines. Last month, it was responsible for wine tasting sessions in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Macau. After this set of sessions, Borba was particularly happy. “Portugal grew around 16 percent in market value; the first trimester already has registered numbers close to what were the export numbers in 2009”, he declares. In fact, up to now, it’s already accounted for US$1.7 million. In an interview with Macau Business during the wine tasting at the Macau Cultural Centre, he claimed there should be a bigger investment in these types of events.
Good indicators
Usually, a wine master or a sommelier conducts the wine tasting. He presents around six wines and he drinks them together with the participants. “This is a good way to discover the characteristics of the wines, the aromas; it’s very educational, because it helps people to understand the wine and their differences”. Even though Borba does not wish to comment on particular numbers and wines, he declares: “The Portuguese wines have been contributing, in a way, to publicise the name of the country.” However, when they are able to work on an integrated production line of action, promoting wine and other products in foreign countries, “this will be healthy for all Portuguese exports”. In fact, with the numbers from the first quarter, Portugal’s AICEP business development agency already estimates that throughout 2010, there is going to be a growth of between 150 and 200 percent in Portuguese wines sales in Mainland China.
The profile
Francisco Borba is an
agronomist engineer and a man with a profound knowledge of the rural world. He spent several years of his working life in the Agriculture Ministry, working as the regional director of the Ribatejo and West regions. Also, he was a secretary of state for Agricultural Development during the third and fourth Portuguese constitutional governments. Throughout his life, he has been always an agricultural businessman, having learnt the trade with his father. He has been at the front of Viniportugal, since late 2009.
The producers
In good spirits There were 22 Portuguese producers at last month’s wine tasting event, held in Macau. Viniportugal organised the event, managing to present more than 200 bottles as well as launching in the Asian market, the international brand titled Wines of Portugal. At the Macau Science Centre, distributors, producers and potential business partners tasted the wines, while at the same time, professor from the Institute for Tourism Studies, Hugo Bandeira, and oenologist, Luís Herédia, conducted a seminar on the subject. It was the common opinion of the Portuguese producers, that Macau and China are growing markets, with great potential. However, contrary to what one might suppose, the Macau casinos and hotels are bringing fierce competition to Portuguese wines.
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Among the producers, there were representatives from institutions such as Fundação Eugénio de Almeida, José Maria da Fonseca, Casa Santos Lima, Graham’s, Casa Agrícola Alexandre Relvas and Esporão. Most of them have partnerships with local distributors. The wine ambassador from Summergate (a local distributor), João Pedro Farinha, claimed that “the Portuguese wine consumption in Macau is big; even tourists that go to restaurants are usually curious about them”. However, there is a local parallel distribution market that brings some competition to the Portuguese wines. “You see many hotels and casinos opening in Macau, but that doesn’t reflect in a gain for the local distributors”, says the managing director from Enopartner (a company that exports Alvarinho wine). According to Carlos Mendes Moreira, the casinos and hotels have their own distributors and wines. Nevertheless, Viniportugal seems eager to promote wines in this part of the world. In fact, apart from the wine tasting event in Macau, the trade association also organised sessions in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, showing its interest in a market that is constantly growing: China. And there are already talks about a bigger investment.
Herdade do Esporão/Awards and wines Acquired by Finagra in the 1970’s, the Herdade do Esporão was occupied from 1975 until 1979 during the revolutionary period. Only after this, did production resume. In 1989, the first Esporão wine was considered one of the best Portuguese wines and three years later the brand Monte Velho was launched. In 2008, Esporão was voted for the second time as the Company of the Year, by the Portuguese magazine Revista dos Vinhos, mainly for its Quinta das Murças wine.
José Maria da Fonseca/Century house José Maria da Fonseca started off his business in 1834. It’s been in the same family for 200 years and it is now the oldest producer of table wines and Setubal Moscatel, in Portugal. It combines investment in new research techniques with tradition. Proof of this is the property, at Reguengos de Monsaraz, where the tradition of fermenting wine in clay pots is combined with the most modern methods of wine production.
Casa Santos Lima/Runs in the family The Casa Santos Lima was founded by Joaquim Santos Lima at the turn of the 19th century. Since then, it has passed through several generations. The first brands to be launched (in 1996) were Quinta da Espiga, Quinta das Setencostas and Palha-Canas. Currently, more than 90 percent of the production is exported to 30 countries.
Graham’s/A story of two families The brothers William and John founded W&J Graham’s, in 1820, in Porto. Seventy years later they acquired their famous property, Quinta dos Malvedos. Since then, it has already been recognized as one of the Douro Valley’s finest “river Quintas”. Ever since, a serious of Vintages were produced by Graham’s: 1908, 1912, 1924, 1927, 1945 and the exceptional 1948. However, in 1970 the company was sold to the Symington family, combining both influences.
J.Portugal Ramos/Transforming grapes João Portugal Ramos planted the first five hectares of vineyards in Estremoz, in 1990. He presented a project with the aim of transforming his own grapes, as well as grapes originating from rented vineyards and grapes bought in the scope of long-term agreements. His project is responsible for some of the most well-known wines.
Fundação Eugénio de Almeida/Wine of history Vasco Maria Eugénio de Almeida founded the Fundação Eugénio de Almeida in 1963. The purpose was to provide cultural, educational, social and spiritual assistance, in pursuit of the development of the Portuguese city, Évora. The wine production takes place in a historical place, the Adega da Cartuxa, in Évora. Nearby is the Monastery of Cartuxa, where several wines are stored in caves. Today this is one of the most recommended sights in Évora and tasting its wine is a must.
Quinta do Portal/Sweet Moscatel From special grape varietals grown in the Douro region, Quinta do Portal produces several wines. In Favaios, a village in Portugal rich in Muscats, Quinta do Portal owns vineyards to produce a dessert Moscatel. Also, for generations, Quinta do Portal has been a producer of Tawny ports, in the Pinhão valley. In total, the company has 95 hectares of vineyards in the Douro region, divided into Quinta da Abelheira, Quinta do Confradeiro, Quinta dos Muros and Quinta do Portal.
Herdade de São Miguel/Schistous is the way Right in the middle of Alentejo, a region in Portugal, in Redondo, the property owned by Alexandre Relvas has 175 hectares, 35 of which are vineyards. Named Herdade de São Miguel, the company takes preference on schistous lands. It is currently working on the development of technology to better understand the vineyard.
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Featuring Portuguese Wine
Graham’s Vintage Port 2007
Marquês de Borba Red 2009 Denomination
DOC Alentejo Type
Red wine Grape varieties
Aragonês, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Saauvignon Region
Alentejo Soil
Limestone clay, schist Harvest By hand to small cases of 15 kg
Vinification
Temperature controlled fermentation of fully de-stemmed bunches
2007 will be remembered particularly for its cool, damp summer. A nice long period of sunshine in September and October allowed ripening to proceed normally, and although a bit later than usual, the vintage took place under perfect conditions, the fruit being beautifully balanced. For the first time ever, some wines made from the Quinta do Tua vineyard were included in the 2007 blend. Wine Description
Vintage Overview An excellent Vintage in the Douro which proved one of the exceptional years where the weather, combined with the work of the viticulturists and the winemakers, produced stunning wines. General declaration. Tasting Notes
Very profound and intense deep purple colour. Rich and complex floral aromas of violets and eucalyptus from the Malvedos and Lages Touriga Franca give a very special elegance to this wine. Very attractive rich blackberry flavoured fruit with excellent texture. The sheer power, weight, complexity and balance of this wine guarantee its longevity. Food pairing suggestion and serving
14 % vol.
Graham’s 2007 Vintage Port is a fabulous way to end a lunch or dinner. It pairs wonderfully with chocolate desserts, such as chocolate mousse, but it can also be enjoyed on its own, providing a memorable moment in the company of good friends.
Total acidity
Storage
Ageing
In second year small oak barrels Alcohol
5.2 g/l
Store the bottle horizontally in a dark place with constant temperature, ideally between 12ºC and 15ºC.
Residual sugar
< 4 g/l
Wine Specifications
Tasting notes
Good aromatic concentration. Intensely fruity, aroma of berries, cassis and preserves. Smooth tannins. Good balance between fruit, acidity and tannin.
Alcohol: 20% vol (20ºC) Total acidity: 4.8 g/l tartaric acid Baumé: 4.1
Graham’s Six Grapes Marquês de Borba Reserva 2007 Denomination DOC Alentejo Type
Red wine Grape varieties
Trincadeira, Aragonês, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon Region
Alentejo Soil
Schist Harvest
By hand to small cases of 15 kg Vinification
Part of the harvest is foot trodden in traditional shallow, open marble troughs, known as lagares. The remainder is fermented in stainless steel tanks, with temperature control, with a long post-fermentation maceration. Malolactic fermentation then takes place in the barrels.
Tasting Notes
Alcohol
Dark red colour, with a seductive rich perfume of ripe plums and cherries. On the palate, complex, with a good structure and a long lingering finish.
Total acidity
Food pairing suggestion and serving
Ageing
12 months in small French oak barrels 14% vol. 5.7 g/l
Residual sugar
< 4 g/l
Tasting notes
Deep in colour. Enormous concentration of aromas. Notes of jammy red fruits and spices. Potent and elegant. Solid, vigorous, with compact and well integrated tannis. Long and distinct finish. A wine for ageing.
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Six Grapes Reserve is one of Graham’s original Port blends. The distinctive depiction of grapes on the label has always been used on the barrels to identify the “Six Grapes” blend. Only grapes from first-class vineyards are used for this mark. Six Grapes is a true expression of Graham’s house style with great richness and complexity. Six Grapes is a big hearted wine. It is fruity and robust and of superb quality. It is blended to be as similar as possible to a young Vintage Port. It has often been referred to as “the everyday Port for the Vintage Port drinker”. Unique in the Port trade, Graham’s selects its “proprietary blend” ahead of its more commercial styles. All other Port shippers make a lighter style “Reserve” blend out of lots that remain after they have bottled their LBV’s.
Graham’s “Six Grapes” is delicious served at the end of a meal, for example with rich, nutty or chocolate desserts, as well as strong cheeses. Wine Specifications
Alcohol: 20% vol (20ºC) Total acidity: 4.1 g/l tartaric acid Baumé: 3.6
Couth
Altano Reserva 2007 Grape Origins
Sourced from the Symington Family Estates Grape Varieties
80% Touriga Franca 20% Touriga Nacional Vinification
The selected grapes were vinified at Quinta do Sol where the Symington family have their modern vinification centre; rigorous grape classification and careful transportation in small 20kg trays; inoculation with selected yeast; fermentation in stainless steel tanks, prolonged maceration by pumping over at a controlled temperature of 26-28ºC. Ageing
10 months in seasoned american 400L oak casks. Coopers
Tonnellerie Magneñan Consumption
Can be drunk now but this wine will continue to age superbly in bottle over the next few years. Decanting will bring out this wine’s finest attributes.
Vila Santa Reserva 2008 Denomination
Regional Alentejano Type
Red wine Grape varieties
Aragonês, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon Region
Alentejo Soil
Schist in advanced metamorphosis stage Harvest
By hand to small cases of 15 kg Vinification
Part of the harvest is foot trodden in marble lagares (troughs) and the remainder fermented in wooden vats with temperature control, followed by long maceration. Ageing
Nine months in American and French oak barrels Alcohol
14% vol. Total acidity
5.1 g/l
Residual sugar
< 4 g/l
Tasting notes
Intense garnet colour. Aroma suggesting very ripe black fruits blending beautifully with the spiciness imparted by the barrels. Elegant and full bodied with soft tannins. A big powerful and full wine.
by Luís Herédia
F
or over twenty years I’ve been tasting Portuguese wines in Macau and noting the continuous evolution of their quality. There is no doubt that the different styles of wine produced in Portugal from north to south, particularly still and fortified wines are of the highest quality. This is not only my opinion, but also that of wine fans and the public, which is confirmed by the number of medals and prizes that Portuguese wines have been awarded in international competitions. In the recent famous International Wine Challenge held in London in April 2010, Portugal achieved a creditable third place out of 46 countries, receiving 35 gold medals. Recently, one of the most prestigious journals assigned the maximum score of 100 points to a 2007 Port Vintage, and several notes of excellence (over 95 points) to a few other Port wines. Other Douro still wines from the same vintage (2007) also received grades of Excellency, and little by little other Portuguese wines from all the regions are achieving very high scores as well. If recognition of the quality of Port wines is indisputable, in what concerns red wine is starts to be notorious from the lowest range to premium level. On the other hand, white wines are finally beginning to dare to display the fruit, acidity and elegance that enable them to obtain interesting reviews and scores. Vinho Verde, especially the Alvarinho, continues to be the most prominent among the white wines in Portugal due to its unique features of fruit, minerals and freshness. However, there is no doubt that all regions are starting to produce international standard white wines using the traditional Portuguese grape varieties, such as Viosinho, Códega, Rabigato, Malvasia Fina, Verdelho, Antão Vaz, Arinto and others. The supply is wide and goes from traditional old world style blends, to monovarietal style as the new world strongly does. There are blends of Portuguese grape varieties, blends of Portuguese and foreign varieties (especially French), blends of foreign varieties, mono-varietals of Portuguese grapes and mono-varietals of foreign grapes. All this wide range is the result of years of work by countless generations, which since Roman times have been working the land, cultivating the vines and creating the vintner Portugal. Today, in the 21st century, the high quality note is given by a new generation of Portuguese wine experts, complemented by a few French, Australian, Spanish and Italian wine makers, who share a similar passion and knowledge. Highly qualified, with a significant female presence, this generation of Portuguese oenologists dominates the selection of varieties for better adaptation to soil, exposing them to the best of the sun and other climatic factors. The vineyard is carefully looked after throughout the whole year to obtain the best fruits possible and precise technology is used for production and maturation. Nowadays, there is no region in Portugal that does not produce high quality wines. The knowledge and technology, experience and ability, and raw materials are found throughout the country. Vinho Verde, Douro, Dão, Bairrada, Tejo, Liboa, Alentejo, Algarve, Madeira and even Azores producing wines of high international standard. Portugal is the 10th wine-producing country in the world by volume, with around six million hectoliters * in 2009. Its enormous geographical and climatic diversity enables the production of virtually all types and styles of wine: sparkling, still and fortified, white, rosé and red, dry, medium dry, medium sweet and sweet. The vine growing and wine culture is rooted in the Portuguese nation, in the permanent vineyard scenery and the development of wine tourism, coupled with the varied gastronomy is an attraction to a lot of tourists. However, the biggest contribution to the quality of wines and their differentiation are the indigenous varieties. Besides the white varieties, the red varieties feature Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Alfrocheiro, Baga, Castelao, Trincadeira, among many others. Moreover, the introduction of foreign noble varieties over the last 20 to 30 years, especially in regions farther south, has also helped to improve quality. Present in Macau for centuries, Portugal was very well acquainted with the Far East market, but never had the need nor the urge to turn to Asian markets in what concerns wine until very recently. Domestic consumption and traditional markets were more than enough for the national production. In this competitive global era, Portugal has found itself obliged to seek new markets, and of course spend more attention on China and other new Asian markets. The results of these efforts are starting to show, with export numbers already rising. There are already wine producing companies with offices or permanent staff in Macau, Hong Kong and China, the number of importers is increasing, and the press has also started to really get involved. Simultaneously, a small number of Portuguese restaurants have emerged in Hong Kong and Guangzhou supporting its evolvement. The startup has been given, and now it is necessary to continue pushing the initial efforts further by being present at the fairs, providing training, participating in the activities of the sector, and promoting Portugal with the quality it deserves. People need to taste Portuguese wines, to experience them and to be conquered by them, just as the juries of the wine competitions have been. The jurors do not know what they are drinking, but nevertheless they are awarding what’s being tasted. * Portuguese Institute of Statistics
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2003 2411 2710 2646a 1003 2417 2436 2220 2022 2707 2426 2308 1021 2600 2703a 2006b 2623a 2205 2626 2625 2023 2313 2013b
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