reRALPH: A Ralph Lauren Rebranding Strategy by maddiezimpfer

reRALPH

MARIA BUSTOS THON LUCY FAULKNER ALDEN MALONEY MADDIE ZIMPFER

CONTENTS ACT I THE EXPOSITION

RALPH LAUREN AND THE AMERICAN DREAM

THE ICONS

PRODUCTS RUNWAYS FACES CONVERSATION WITH NACHO

43 57 75 79

GETTING TO KNOW RALPH LAUREN

ADS INTERVIEWS

87 91

THE MEDIA

OWNED EARNED PAID

97 99 100

THE DIFFUSION VISUAL MERCHANDISING DISTRIBUTION

IDENTITY: AN INWARD PERSPECTIVE VISION, MISSION, VALUES ARCHETYPE PERSONA 3D BUSINESS MODEL

IDENTITY: AN OUTWARD PERSPECTIVE MARKET ANALYSIS CONVERSATION WITH CONALL COMPETITOR ANALYSIS BENCHMARK POSITIONING SWOT

THE RISING ACTION

103 105 107

111 113 115 117 119

121 123 127 131 141 143 145

147

ACT II SNAPSHOT OF NOW SOCIAL JUSTIFICATION THEORY INTANGIBLE NOSTALGIA THE NEW AMERICAN DREAM

MARKET TRENDS SHIFT TO LUXURY ZILLENNIAL TRENDS

151 153 154 155

157 159 160

NEW CONCEPT

163

NEW IDENTITY: AN INWARD PERSPECTIVE

171

VISION, MISSION, VALUES ARCHETYPE NEW TARGET PERSONA CONVERSATION WITH SOPHIE 3D BUSINESS MODEL

THE EXECUTION TOUCHPOINT MAP FINANCIAL OVERVIEW STREAMLINING STORE SIMPLIFICATION CAMPAIGN reRALPH BRAND VOICE BUDGET FOR STRATEGY STRATEGY EXPANSION

NEW IDENTITY: AN OUTWARD PERSPECTIVE POSITIONING MAP SWOT

173 175 178 179 181 185

189 191 194 195 199 205 213 219 224 225

229 231 235

THE RESOLUTION

237

REFERENCES

241

APPENDIX

247

ACT I

THE EXPOSITION

Society as we know it, and have always known it, has been riddled with conflicts, wars and pandemics. Though these can bring people together in solidarity against hardship, every time such an event occurs, it has led to mass distrust in our guiding sources: (social) media, our governments, organizations, and even brands. This communal distrust manifests as a lack of societal stability. How do we regain stability in times of unrest? Going back to what we know: finding comfort in representations of simplicity, nostalgia for the “good old days”, and making connections with people, new and familiar. Brands that are able to bring us these desired elements become iconic. This is no mean feat, but one brand that has done so successfully, remaining a constant through nearly 50 years of societal highs and lows, is Ralph Lauren. Timeless, classic and, most importantly, American, are the three words that epitomize Ralph Lauren. Yet, in a new decade that is ever-changing and a world so fast-paced, can they keep up and continue to satisfy our yearning for stability?

RALPH LAUREN AND THE AMERICAN DREAM

BEFORE THE BRAND BECOMING RL THE GOLDEN AGE SUBCULTURE STABILIZATION MAINTAINING MOMENTUM

Cary Grant, 1950's

The Bronx, 1950's

Ralph Lauren, 1950's

Vietnam Protest, 1960's

Couple, 1950's

Movie Theater, 1950's

School Boy, 1950's

The Kennedy's, 1950's

The Bronx, 1960's

UNITED STATES In the 50s, America was experiencing a post-war, economic boom. New cars, suburban houses and other consumer goods were available to more people than before. Additionally, the middle class had more money than ever. The cinema scene was well into its golden age, which lasted into the late 60s. People were finding escape in the stories told on the screens of the movie theaters. The old image of women and their position in society started to cause dissatisfaction. They began looking for a more fulfilling life, which brought about the rebirth of feminism in the 60’s. This decade was a tumultuous time in the US; President John F. Kennedy was assassinated in 1964, the war in Vietnam became the full focus of the government, and MLK was murdered in the end of the decade following his iconic leadership of the civil rights movements. Drug and hippie culture were normalized, with events like the Summer of Love and Woodstock at the end of the 60s. This was an era of both financial opportunity and need for escape in the United States. It was the optimal time for Lauren to start a brand that linked to what he had always loved; his dream world. The citizens of the US had the financial freedom to buy something that would have previously been viewed as superfluous, like a wide, colorful tie. At the same time, they had the motivation to do so. As the world quickly shifted from stable to turbulent, people sought escape. What better way to escape than to the world of prestige and dreams that Lauren had to offer through the simple purchase of a tie?

BEFORE THE BRAND

RALPH LAUREN The story of Ralph Lauren begins with Ralph Lipschitz, the youngest son of Jewish immigrant parents living in the Bronx. His father was a house painter and amateur artist. Growing up, he escaped his family’s poverty through trips to the movie theater, where he would immerse himself in the great cinema scene of the 40s and 50s. In a TV interview with Charlie Rose in 1993, Ralph shared, “I was very influenced by movies. I was very influenced by a world that had a sense of dream”. In fact, Ralph had always been a dreamer. In a 2011 interview with Oprah Winfrey on his ranch in Colorado, Ralph Lauren shared his earliest ambitions: “I wanted to be a baseball player. I wanted to be a basketball player. I wanted to be an actor. I wanted to be a dancer. Actually… I wanted to be batman”. He further detached himself from his humble beginnings in his late teens when he changed his name from Lipschitz to Lauren after enduring many years of bullying. After a short army stint, Lauren moved back to NYC and became a salesman for Brooks Brothers, and then a series of various necktie manufacturers. Then came his most inspirational experience yet, his first polo match. "We were exposed to fabulous things," recalled Warren Helstein, the friend that took Lauren to his first match. "The silver, the leather, the horses, the tall slinky blondes with the big hats, and the high society that we really weren't knowledgeable of". This event transformed Lauren’s vision. He looked to the New York fashion scene, stuck between the names Polo and Players. In response to this dilemma, Helstein advised, “Polo is totally elitist. Hardly anybody knows anything about it. But everybody plays something. There’s no choice… it’s got to be players”. Ralph thanked him and went right ahead with Polo as the name. In the era of plain, narrow, mundane ties, Lauren offered up a radical concept: colorful, wide tides. His first stop was Bloomingdales.

RALPH LAUREN WAS IN PURSUIT OF THE AMERICAN DREAM.

Annie Hall, 1977

Coty Award, 1977

RL & Peter Strom, 1978

Ralph Lauren,1967

The Great Gatsby, 1974

RL's First Car, 1970s

Women's Suiting, 1971

Women's March, 1970s

BECOMING RL

RALPH LAUREN Ralph Lauren had no plans of stopping there. In the interview with Charlie Rose, he explained that, in moving to what was next, he “envisioned clothes that he himself would want to wear.” It started with a complete men's collection in 1968; sport coats, ties, men's suits, dress shirts, slacks. Then he visited the Bloomingdale's CEO and said he wanted to launch a womenswear collection. Shortly after, he launched his first women’s suiting line in Autumn 1971. Getting his first boutique in Bloomingdales was a major moment for Lauren. It was “the first time someone outside of Ralph’s fantasy existence agreed with him and brought him into the world of commerce” according to Michael Gross, author of Genuine Authentic. This was also the first time that Bloomingdales had given a designer his very own in-store boutique. In 1970, the Polo by Ralph Lauren store opened in Bloomingdales. Three years after his ties went on sale, Lauren won one of the biggest honors of the fashion industry: the 1970 Coty award for his menswear line. In 1971, Ralph bought his first vintage car, notably, before he felt he could really afford it. He understood the aspirational reach he was trying to sell to people. In 1972, the business started to sink for the first time. It was then that Peter Strom came in, the first president and Vice Chairman of Ralph Lauren, and invested six thousand dollars, taking 10% ownership of the business. Two years later, the company got a major boost when Lauren's clothes were cast in the Great Gatsby in 1974 and when he outfitted Annie Hall three years later. Finally, during this time, Lauren became the true face of his campaigns. There was always a certain authenticity to what he created.

UNITED STATES In the United States, the middle class were still favored, especially under Nixon’s presidency, and suburban life was predominantly white. These were the foundational years for what would become the idealized American Dream: owning a home with a white picket fence, having a family and leading a peaceful life in suburban America. People idealized, and were able to afford, modern accessories like cars, TVs, and college educations. The 1970s also were also a major point in US history in the fight for women’s rights. By the end of the 70s, every US state had ratified the ERA. Feminist movements and activism were finally causing transformation. With that, women’s fashion evolved: women’s suiting and bell bottoms alike rose in popularity, while faces like Jane Birkin and Annie Hall rose as the icons of the decade.

RALPH LAUREN ACHIEVES HIS AMERICAN DREAM.

Ralph, 1986

Ronald Reagan, 1980s

Ralph Lauren, 1997

Double RL, 1993

Chicago, 1999

Ralph Lauren, 1999

Yuppies, 1980s

Ralph Lauren, 1994

London, 1984

THE GOLDEN AGE

RALPH LAUREN The 80s and 90s were Ralph Lauren’s so-called Golden Age; the era in which the brand became truly global and achieved its greatest success. They started the decade with a bang, opening their first store outside of the US in 1981, positioned on London’s iconic New Bond Street. Not only was this a great opportunity for increased visibility, but it allowed the brand to attract those desiring an equivalent lifestyle across the pond. With the subsequent debut of Ralph Lauren home in 1983, the early 80’s set the tone for the brand expansion that was to come: 1986 saw the opening of their $14 million flagship store on New York’s Madison Avenue, the launch of their first womenswear collection and Ralph Lauren himself featured on the cover of Times Magazine. This momentum continued into the 1990s, with the introduction of eight further lines: Polo Sport, Double RL, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Ralph Lauren Golf, RLX, RLX Golf and homeware collection, Ralph Lauren Paint. At first this overwhelmed the brand to the point of near bankruptcy in 1994, but an investment from Goldman Sachs projected them back into business and, when they went public in 1997, shares reached a high of $33 per share. They concluded the decade by opening their now-iconic restaurant adjacent to their second largest US store in Chicago, securing their place as one of the biggest names in America.

UNITED STATES The 1980s represented a “new conservatism” in social, economic and political life, characterized by President Ronald Reagan who was the embodiment of the all-American man that others aspired to. However, Reagan’s new policies proved unsuccessful at first and 1982 saw the worst recession since the great depression, with 9 million people unemployed across the country. This was, in part, thanks to a system that rewarded success and encouraged those with money to keep more of it. Though intended to encourage business, this had a negative trickle down effect on large numbers of society. This societal shift was also present in popular culture as the term “yuppie” was born to describe the baby boomer generation with a college education. Caricatures of this archetypal young American as middle class with financial success became popular across the media, and continued into the 90s when both premium cigars and gambling enjoyed phenomenal growth. As the American economy recovered from the failed “Reaganomics'' and began to boom, society shifted once more. Popular culture turned grunge, homosexuality was no longer a taboo, and the traditional notions of the nuclear family began to change. The uniform of this evolution was far less structured than the past, with an emphasis on looser fitting pants, and the layering of long sleeved undershirts with flannels.

RALPH LAUREN BECOMES THE SYMBOL OF THE AMERICAN DREAM FOR EVERYBODY.

Lo Life, 1990s

F.R.I.E.N.D.S., 2000

Kanye West, 2001

Lo Lifes, 1980s

Liam Gallagher, 1996

Lo Life, 1980s

Wu-Tang Clan, 1999

Lo Life, 1990s

Gwyneth Paltrow, 1999

Yet, as Ralph Lauren’s popularity grew in the mainstream, contrasting, but just as powerful, counter-cultural communities gave the brand street cred. It was the era where those who went against, or were left out of, the yuppie ideal were able to shine and MTV was one of the main influencers of fashion. So when Raekwon of the hip hop group, Wu-Tang Clan, sported the Snow Beach Windbreaker in a music video, their fans became Ralph Lauren fans too. This soon evolved into the subculture now known as the Lo Lifes, the young African-Americans taking their name in part from their lives in poverty, and part from the “Lo” of “Polo”. Even though the elite lifestyle Ralph Lauren created was far from attainable, wearing this brand brought it closer, still providing a symbol of status that brought social validation amongst their peers. The Lo Lifes would shoplift Ralph Lauren clothes in bids to outdress each other, and the bright colors of the clothes set them apart from other subcultures.

“Polo alone is that brand of greatness, you feel distinguished. You might have two dollars in your pocket but you - ZHIGGE PRINCE-LO looking like a million.” The Lo Life mindset shifted in the 2000s, with “Lo” turning into an emblem of love and loyalty, but maintained their Ralph Lauren uniform; Ralph Lauren became a symbol of unity, regardless of origin, in pursuit of a shared goal - values that Ralph Lauren also held in the mainstream. Meanwhile, skateboarders were creating their own interpretation of Ralph Lauren, adding a grunge edge by wearing chinos five times too big and pairing them with their Vans or Converse. Moreover, despite being the epitome of Americana, the brand also became the outfitter of outsiders in the UK. Ralph Lauren combined with Armani and Nike Air Max were worn by members of lad culture to appear “proper” when attempting to deflect the police. And, like in America, Ralph Lauren and music were highly intertwined, with the brand appearing to be the sponsor of the ongoing fight between the two most iconic brit-pop groups of the 90s: Oasis and Blur.

SUBCULTURE STABILIZATION

The late 80s into the 90s symbolize the moment when Ralph Lauren was not only part of the fashion world, but had entered into popular culture. The 90s propelled Ralph Lauren to the pinnacle of “cool”: the lead actor in coming of age film, Kids, was adorned in Polo throughout, everyone cheered as the girl-everyone-wants-to-be Rachel Green got her dream job at Ralph Lauren in F.R.I.E.N.D.S., and Gwyneth Paltrow wowed in an unforgettable pink dress at the 1999 Oscars.

Pink Pony, 2000

Roger Farah, 2000

Wimbledon, 2006

Ralph Lauren, 2014

President Obama, 2008

Ralph Lauren, 2000s

RL Sport, 2000

September 11, 2001

Polo Sport, 2000s

UNITED STATES The year 2000 was also when George W. Bush was elected President of the United States. On September 11, 2001 tragedy struck as a series of terrorist attacks hit the U.S. and, in 2002, President Bush announced that the U.S. would wage war on the terrorist group that coordinated these attacks. In 2008, a major economic crash occurred in America, the same year that Barack Obama was elected, naming him the first AfricanAmerican President of U.S. history. The following year, the Great Recession officially came to an end, though the unemployment rates continued to climb throughout the nation.

MAINTAINING MOMENTUM

RALPH LAUREN In 2000, Roger Farah was appointed President and Chief Operating Officer at Ralph Lauren, bringing the "left side" of the brain to the company. He bought back licenses to reel brands back in-house while also working on solidifying the not-so-sexy aspects of Ralph Lauren, including supply chains and operations. The Polo Ralph Lauren website was launched in 2000, showcasing an innovative display of interviews, style advice, and the streaming of runway shows. The Pink Pony Initiative launched in 2000, fighting cancer by donating 25% of the purchase price of Pink Polo shirts to fund international networks of cancer charities. In 2002, the brand debuted in Europe with its first runway show in Milan for Purple Label menswear. The next year, the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer Care opened. In 2006, Polo Ralph Lauren was announced as the official outfitters of Wimbledon, naming Ralph Lauren the first designer chosen to dress all on-court officials. The next year, Ralph Lauren won his second CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award for American Fashion Legend. At the same time, Ralph Lauren started to expand in new directions; a major milestone for the brand was to be named the official outfitter of the US Olympic and Paralympic teams for the Beijing Olympic Games. However, a news report several years later uncovered that these olympic suits created were not made in the US as promised, but in China. Although this might have been an early warning of the brand doing too much, they continued growing. In 2010 Ralph Lauren was the first fashion designer ever to receive the key to the city of New York. Additionally, new markets were conquered by opening a flagship store and restaurant in Paris, aimed at creating a fusion between American and French culture. Adding this “American touch” became even more apparent when Lauren opened an exhibition of cars titled “L’art de l’automobile” in Paris, which he preferred over art since, “you can’t drive paintings” (Bloomberg, 2015).

RALPH LAUREN IS THE SUSTAINED SYMBOL OF THE AMERICAN DREAM.

#MeToo, 2017

BLM, 2015

50th Anniversary, 2018

Covid-19, 2020

Anti Trump Rally, 2017

Very Ralph, 2019

Janelle Monáe, 2021

Polo, 2014

UNITED STATES This era proved to be a very turbulent time in the US. Technological advances made, and normalized, the utilization of social media platforms which have impacted the world, increasing the use of sharing economies such as Uber and AirBnB. Two social movements which started in the US were propelled into the limelight: #BlackLivesMatter and #MeToo were top trends on social media. The former, inspired by the civil rights and black power movements of the 60’s, started to gain attention after a series of events in which several black men were killed by police officers. The movement gained fame and power through social media platforms, showing its growing role in today’s activist movements. This impact was also visible when Harvey Weinstein was accused of sexual harassment and assault in 2017, resulting in millions of people joining the conversation and sharing the hashtag. American society was strongly impacted by the 2016 presidential campaign, in which Donald Trump, former businessman and TV personality, was elected, making him the 45th president of the United States. Although Trump had a strong following of his populist campaign “Make America great again”, many US citizens did not agree with his political view and in 2021 he became the third president of the US to be impeached. Besides the ongoing battle against climate change and creating an environment of equal rights, a major event not only in the United States, but the whole world, was the Covid-19 pandemic. This not only had a negative impact on the world economy, but also on people's social lives and wellbeing: overall, 36% of Americans felt lonely and more depressed because of the pandemicinduced lockdowns, a number that was even higher in those aged 16 - 24. Compared to other leading economies, the US was ranked lower regarding how the pandemic was handled.

LOST IN THE NOISE

RALPH LAUREN The expansions into new directions introduced at the beginning of the century continued in the 2010's, with the opening of the Polo bar in New York City, drawing inspiration from old and classic dining establishments. Just before the 50 year anniversary of the brand in 2018, Jonathan Bottomly was appointed as the first CMO after Ralph Lauren himself had been leading his company since its inception. The anniversary show was a true celebration of the past 50 years, shown in the heart of New York City using the iconic Bethesda Terrace in Central Park as it's backdrop. This emphasis on the history of the brand was followed by the documentary “Very Ralph”, which was released in 2019. Following the drastic loss of revenue caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, Ralph Lauren announced they would cut their workforce by approximately 15%. The company then revealed it would save more money in the future by reducing its real-estate footprint, resulting from the pandemic-induced trend of moving more business online.

THE AMERICAN DREAM CHANGED AND RALPH LAUREN DIDN’T.

THE ICONS

PRODUCTS RUNWAYS FACES CONVERSATION: NACHO

ICONIC

PRODUCTS

THE POLO SHIRT

The polo shirt is the embodiment of Ralph Lauren; the beloved shirt is the most iconic piece to the brand. Expressed in a variety of colors and patterns, the stiff collar and the emblematic polo pony stitched logo have been a part of the brand’s rich DNA since 1972, and remain constant today.

“With fans including the likes of Frank Sinatra, who reportedly purchased 20 Polo shirts in one shopping trip.” - (UNDERWOOD, N.D.).

However, to the surprise of many, Ralph Lauren did not create the style, but instead adapted the already existent polo shirt. The piece does not derive any meaning from the sport of polo as one might guess, but instead from the sport of tennis. René Lacoste wore his own design of a polo shirt in the US Open and, after interest sparked, he began selling the shirts upon retiring from the sport. Years later, Ralph Lauren reinterpreted the polo shirt in a softer fabrication and more flattering fit, created a range of beautiful colors and the shirt took off, quickly to become an icon.

The polo shirt represents what it means for something to be timeless; for over 50 years the shirt has remained in the wardrobes of people across the globe. From 17 colors in 1977 to 66 colors today, its vast range has allowed for many people to identify with the shirt.

80'S

Introduction of striped polo shirt Introduction of a new label design Introduction of crest logo

90'S

Debut of Polo Golf performance polo shirt

Shape shift for men’s polo - looser and longer fit with development of chest pocket Shape shift for women’s polo - mini polo debuts, tighter and shorter fit Polo Bear appears on the polo shirt in early 90s Relationship between Ralph Lauren and world sporting events begins - 1992 America’s Cup Polo Shirt with

2000'S

American flag and team name launches the Polo shirt in the sports world

Create Your Own campaign allowing for total customization of a polo shirt Pink Pony Collection - fighting breast cancer with proceeds The Earth Polo The Pride Polo The Polo Project: Design for Good as a fundraiser for Covid-19 relief resources Awarded into the Museum of Modern Art’s permanent collection

THE POLO BEAR

The Ralph Lauren Polo Bear Sweater has been an icon of the brand since 1991. As the brand has grown over time, the Polo Bear has grown with it. “He is a man of contradictions. Innocent yet sophisticated. Suave yet cuddly. A beloved children’s toy…who enjoys an occasional martini. He’s been spotted hobnobbing with international celebrities, written about in leading newspapers, and even played a critical role in shaping the cover of a seminal hip-hop record. He is, of course, the Polo Bear, and this is his story.” - (Underwood, n.d) To make a long story short, let’s start here: after an unsuccessful bear hunt in Mississippi by President Theodore Roosevelt, an offering was made to the president to shoot a teddy bear dangling from a tree to compensate for the lack of victory. Upon denial of this offering and sparing of the teddy bear, the media portrayed the already imaginative story and shared it with the world. Teddy bear makers took advantage of this opportunity, including a German gentleman named Richard Steiff. Ralph Lauren and his brother Jerry Lauren thought fondly of these bears and a tradition began in the brand to gift the brothers bears resembling the distinct style of each for their birthdays.

“As with so much in the World of Ralph Lauren, what appealed to Ralph in his own life made its way to the clothes, and in 1991 the Polo Bear appeared in two very different forms.”

- (UNDERWOOD, N.D.).

The first appearance of the Polo Bear was in teddy bear form as part of a collaboration with Steiff, called the “Preppy Bear.” The second appearance was the Preppy Bear making its way to sweaters, t-shirts, ties, and more. As time went on, the bear changed outfits and styles and continued to land on different pieces across many collections. This collaboration eventually came to a halt, though in recent seasons it has commenced again - the iconic story of the polo bear continues.

THE POLO PONY EMBLEM

“The signature Pony—famously created using 1,100 stitches—is both aspirational and playful, an elegant design flourish layered with meaning.” ( U n d e r w o o d , n . d . )

The polo pony emblem that has laid on the polo shirt for 50 years has become the strongest element of brand recognition for Ralph Lauren. The logo has found itself on many different styles of Ralph Lauren, including the classic button down, cable knit sweater, striped rugby shirt, windbreakers, and many other pieces of the brand, naming it the most recognizable and iconic symbol of Ralph Lauren.

THE ORIGINAL TIE

Ralph Lauren began his career in 1967 designing neck ties. He designed these ties for Beau Brummel under the name of Polo, and each was hand-made in Indian, Swiss, and English fabrics. They were 3 and ½ inches wide which remained true until the top of the tie, making it much wider and straighter than average ties during that time. By attending certain stores, hand picked by Ralph Lauren, you could acquire a tie for $7.50 - $15 each. They came in colorful handblocked prints, iridescent horizontal stripes, parquet check, blanket plaid, and more designs that gave a fresh view for men looking for a defined style.

THE OXFORD SHIRT

The story of the Oxford Shirt starts at a 19th century Scottish fabric mill. A textile manufacturer created four fabrics named after elite universities: Oxford, Harvard, Cambridge and Yale. The Oxford fabric was made to endure, to be versatile, durable, and provide a strong weave that ages with grace and softness. This cloth was translated for English polo players to wear while playing in the 19th century. Due to the collar flapping in the wind, they would use pins to connect the collar to the shirt, so buttons were born. In the 1890s the shirt made its way to the United States where its casualness and sportiness appealed to many. The shirt quickly became an essential after being seen repeatedly on influential figures.

“Fred Astaire wore a white oxford shirt during the rollerskating scene in the 1937 movie Shall We Dance, and President John F. Kennedy was photographed wearing them countless times in the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s. Miles Davis donned a green version for the cover of his 1958 album Milestones.” - (FENNER, N.D.). The Oxford loosened up the stiff and tight past of shirts for men and gave them the ability to move and feel comfortable. It quickly spread across campuses and became a staple of the Ivy League wardrobe. The Ivy League life was a constant source of inspiration for Ralph Lauren so, naturally, he introduced his own version of the Oxford shirt in 1971. He embellished the cuff of the shirt with the embroidered polo pony and, from that moment, the shirt stuck and grew with the brand. 1991 provided an oversized Big Oxford shirt, while 2017 introduced a cotton western version. The Oxford cloth itself has taken many forms in the Ralph Lauren brand, from the Oxford Shirt, to a men’s suit made out of oxford cloth and bed linens. Ralph Lauren was quoted, “I started with the origins of tradition, but I was not bound by it.” 53

THE AMERICAN FLAG SWEATER

The iconic prep style of Ralph Lauren combined with the love for the Americana lifestyle creates the American Flag Sweater. Made in the USA and draped with an early American flag featuring 13 stars and stripes, this sweater is symbolic of the DNA and history of Ralph Lauren.

WOMENS SUITING

Diane Keaton’s wardrobe for the iconic Annie Hall film was styled by Ralph Lauren. After the film, Diane Keaton wore a Ralph Lauren suit to accept her award at the Golden Globes. This propelled women’s suiting for the brand and would soon make it an iconic work of the designer. Diane Keaton continued wearing Ralph Lauren suits on and off the carpet. Madonna, Blake Lively, Emma Watson, and countless other celebrities' most iconic looks are in their Ralph Lauren suits. An article from WWD on July 12, 1971 titled “ManTailored Shirts Go Big With Ladies”, detailed this love for suiting and its beginnings in the brand. Ralph Lauren was quoted later that same year saying, “there are a lot of girls who like the man-tailored look, they want to be luxurious without frills.” A plaid suit from the Fall 1971 collection is the embodiment of this iconic women’s suiting.

TEAM USA UNIFORMS

Ralph Lauren is known for their embracement of American pride, exhibited fully in his designs for Team USA. In 2008, a partnership between Ralph Lauren and the U.S. Olympic Committee was made and has carried on since. Ralph Lauren was named the official outfitter of the Olympic and Paralympic USA Teams. Recently, Ralph Lauren designed the uniforms for the Opening Ceremony Parade at the 2022 Winter Olympics; red, white and blue anoraks, jackets, pants, gloves and boots that all take inspiration from different forms of American sportswear, and created with Intelligent Insulation.

This material adjusts itself to protect you, based on what it feels on the outside. For the previous Summer Olympics, Ralph Lauren designed a cooling jacket that uses the same technology and the brand also previously released a bluetooth-controlled heatable moon jacket. Similarly to the Earth Polo, these uniforms were made in the USA from recycled plastic bottles forming a polyester fiber.

“Temperature-responsive fabric composed of two materials that expand or contract at different rates in response to temperature changes. As the mercury drops, the lengths of the two materials change, causing the textile to constrict and bend, increasing the amount of insulation.” - (PALMIERI), N.D.).

ICONIC

RUNWAYS

1993

FALL

The Spring 1993 show is an exhibition of some of Ralph Lauren’s signatures that have followed the brand until today. The first group of looks are floral and earthy, taking some bohemian inspiration. Flowing floral trousers with matching vests are displayed alongside long dresses, using buttons and collars to add a sense of ease to each piece. Each look is accessorized with belts, long beaded necklaces, headscarves, chunky bracelets, and boots layered underneath. The second series of looks entail the preppiness that Ralph Lauren demonstrates so iconically. Thick and thin navy and white stripes are mixed and accessorized with berets and vests that solidify the preppy boating look. The next series of looks derives from Ralph Lauren’s adaptation of classic men’s suiting for womenswear. These pieces include broader shoulders, deeper v necklines styled with bare skin underneath, adding a hint of sexiness to the long pencil skirts. The models are draped with long strands of pearls to add a soft feminine touch. The fourth group of looks adds the hint of western influence that is constant in Ralph Lauren shows. Looks of long fitted dresses with tassel fringed hems and boots sticking out of the bottom, long strands of beaded necklaces, and beautiful head scarves each had their moment on the runway. It was all in the details for most of the show’s looks, including beautiful lace and long slinky gloves. Feminine blouses tucked into structured basic trousers mixed with bohemian-influenced accessories and dull hues added an earthiness to the collection. Patterns reminiscent of Navajo designs on chunky cardigans tied the pieces together. The last series of the show was pure and clean and displayed another iconic aspect of Ralph Lauren: monochromatic white. Pearls, lace, tailored blazers, softly ruffled blouses, satin embellished robes with rope tie closures and delicate halter dresses all in crisp white. Seeing the looks together during the finale makes clear the multitude of customers within the Ralph Lauren brand.

2002

SPRING

The Spring 2002 Ralph Lauren show focused heavily on western influences that Ralph Lauren has incorporated since its beginning. The collection flourished with suede, tassels, lace, leather, large belts and ivory white pieces portraying the Americana lifestyle. What some would call Cowgirl Couture, the collection took vintage and rugged bohemian inspiration. Low rise trousers, flouncing ruffles, feminine blouses, long skirts, tailored jackets and elegantly embroidered dresses all came together to provide an earthly simplicity to the collection.

2014

SPRING

Polo Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2014 show was a show unlike any other for the brand. For this, Ralph Lauren teamed up with MPC (an advertising agency focused on combining technology and creativity) to create a cinematic 4D runway event. A water-screen projection towered above Manhattan's Central Park "fusing fashion, art, and technology.” Though the delivery of the collection was an experimental technological advancement for the brand, the collection kept the classic, preppy pieces and Americana lifestyle that Ralph Lauren is known for. Upon conclusion of the show, a virtual Ralph Lauren appeared to take his bow. 63

2015

FALL

The perfect way to describe Ralph Lauren's Fall 2015 Ready-To-Wear, is old Hollywood glamor fused with western influences. This is exhibited by the finale look: a sequin embellished evening gown accessorized with leather and shearling trimmed gloves and a shearling toboggan hat. The collection consisted of monochromatic looks embellished with tassels, shearling, broad hats, and other distinct accessories. The show featured looks in all white, with delicate lacing adding to each, along with urban hints to differentiate the looks. Patent leather, satin gowns and tuxedos dominated the evening wear aspect of the show. The show incorporated all of Ralph Lauren’s most identifiable styles, from stepping out of the wild west right onto the red carpet.

2017

FALL

Ralph Lauren started collecting vintage cars in 1971. For the Fall 2017 show, he showcased his new ReadyTo-Wear collection amongst his well established car collection at his own garage in New York. Models strutted through Ferraris, Bugattis, Porsches and more while sporting classic Ralph Lauren styles including houndstooth suits and glamorous evening wear, with the collection’s color palette complimenting the car designs. Patent leather, statement skirts, women in tuxedos and other brand staples made their usual appearance. “Even the waiters were dapper, wearing matching Lauren-emblazoned jumpsuits, looking like members of a chic pit crew who've never stepped close to a NASCAR race. At the end of the show, Lauren emerged in his own racing jumpsuit, hugging guests and waving to the crowd”, (MCDERMOTT, n.d.).

50TH ANNIVERSARY

2018

FALL

The Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear show celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Ralph Lauren brand. Located in Central Park, the focus was to celebrate the many icons of Ralph Lauren over the years, showcasing the Americana lifestyle Ralph Lauren exhibits so well. All of the many iconic aesthetics of the brand were present, ranging from westernwear to prep to classic suiting, portrayed in over 100 looks. The everlasting familial values of the brand were present throughout the show. People of all ages were walking; mothers with children, couples holding hands, fathers holding babies, all to reunite with smiles at the conclusion of the show. The crowd was filled with Ralph Lauren’s family, friends, A-list celebrities, iconic faces of the brand, and Ralph Lauren supporters since the beginning. As a prelude to the post-show dinner, Oprah Winfrey gave a touching speech that encapsulated the event's mood, retelling her own origin story as a young reporter in Baltimore.

"‘Back then my idea of celebrating success wasn’t to go out and get a fancy car or jewelry. It was a closet full of Ralph Lauren towels . . . they represented a sense of comfort, luxury, aspiration,’ she said, raising her glass for a toast and turning towards Lauren. ‘Your designs define an unwavering integrity, and that is why we are here tonight.’” Tears filled Ralph Lauren’s eyes as he took a victory lap after the finale of the show. 69

50TH

2022

FALL

Fall 2022 was Ralph Lauren’s first show back following COVID, and he added a strong sense of personal touch to the venue: the Museum of Modern Art in New York was decorated to mimic Ralph Lauren’s personal Manhattan living room. Featuring sleek black and white tailoring, après ski influences, western accessories, and lavish evening wear filled the room. The final look was a women’s tuxedo topped with a NYC Yankees baseball cap, paying homage to the brand’s strong American roots.

ICONIC

FACES

RALPH LAUREN

It is undeniable that the brand’s most iconic face is Ralph Lauren himself. There is no other face that iconizes the brand as much as Ralph Lauren and, by aligning himself so closely with the brand, he makes the goal of reaching the American Dream through his clothing all the more attainable for the audience – if Ralph can do it, so can they.

"I HAVE A VERY DEEP RELATIONSHIP WITH THE BRAND AND EVERYONE, AND IT’S ALWAYS GOING TO BE A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF MY LIFE."

A CONVERSATION WITH NACHO FIGUERAS Who better to symbolise Ralph Lauren and their values than a polo player? Nacho Figueras began playing polo professionally at just 17 and has since enjoyed a successful career, still playing today alongside the likes of Prince Harry. Though he was not an experienced model before he was scouted by Ralph Lauren’s photographer in 1999, after modeling for the brand for 5 years, he was named the official face of men’s fragrances and the (now removed) Black Label. He continued to represent and bring to life Ralph Lauren’s iconic polo player for the next 15 years, until 2019.

You started modeling in 2000, was Ralph Lauren the first brand you modeled for?

How long did you model for Ralph Lauren for?

I started in ‘99 until 2019, so 20 years! I met Bruce Webber [photographer for Ralph Lauren] at a dinner party in the Hamptons. At the time, they were using Penelope Cruz for the women’s fragrance and he thought it would be a good idea to bring in an Argentinian to make things a little bit more exciting. To prove I was camera-ready we did a very small campaign for an Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue. It all worked out and a couple of weeks later I did a Ralph Lauren shoot in Miami with Penelope. That’s how it started.

Do you have a favorite memory or moment from your time spent with the Ralph Lauren?

There were many! There is a fragrance called Romance which is a women’s fragrance I shot in 2010 or 2011 with my entire family on my wife’s family farm where we got married. The whole Ralph Lauren team came to Argentina and we had a photoshoot there. I did a few more with my family. The family moments were always great and shooting commercials were always fun. When we did fragrances it wasn’t just shoots, it was commercials too which brings a lot of excitement because there are a lot of cameras and things going on at the same time.

For a period of time we had a line called Black Watch which was the name of my polo team, so there was a Black Watch Polo line by Ralph Lauren. Shooting that was fun because it was kind of like a joint venture between my polo team and Ralph.

There’s a big connection between you, Ralph Lauren and Polo. How do you want to make polo a more inclusive sport?

Inclusive and better known. I want to use polo as a platform to raise money for charity and get more people to understand the game and watch games. I understand playing polo requires a lot of logistics but there are many programs around America and the world where you can play polo. There is an organization called Work To Ride which helps inner city kids go to a barn, interact with horses and learn how to play polo which gives them some hope and gets them out of trouble. This is an organization that I work closely with and I think it’s a great example of how polo can be used for making good. I’ve always put a lot of effort into not just being a polo player, but using the sport as a platform for this type of action. Equine therapy is real, it really works and it’s incredible. I don’t know what it is but there is something about the emotion of the horse that you connect with. Those programs are important and I’ve tried to support them over the years. “There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man”. Winston Churchill said that and I think that’s very true. 80

What does Ralph Lauren represent to you? Is there any value of the brand that resonates with you?

It’s very hard for me to separate the brand from my relationship with the man - I had a 20 year relationship with Mr Lauren himself. I always cherished our relationship very much, it always felt like he was a mentor and inspiration to me as a businessman, a father and a husband. So my connection to the brand is very personal and emotional.

As a brand, it’s now globally known and he did an incredible job of using aspirational moments. I think that’s what made him choose polo as their word and logo, as that lifestyle represented what he wanted his lifestyle to be. Polo is my life so obviously I have a connection because of that; his logo is a polo player and that’s what I do every day of my life so obviously there is a very deep connection.

Has your vision of the brand changed over time as you’ve worked with the brand? If so, how?

Of course my relationship with the brand has changed.

When I was a nine year old kid I had one Ralph Lauren shirt. I loved horses so I thought this was my coolest shirt because it had a little polo player on it, and that’s the only thing I really knew about it. I used to wear the polo green fragrance because I thought it was cool that it had a polo player on the bottle. At a very young age it was an emotional connection to the polo player.

Of course 20 or 30 years later, after a 20 year relationship with the brand, and having met Ralph, his family and children, and the many hundreds of people that work there (and most of them have been there for a very long time) it obviously takes the connection to a whole other level. I have a very deep relationship with the brand and everyone, and it’s always going to be a very important part of my life.

If you had to pick the most iconic piece of Ralph Lauren, which one would it be?

Oh, it’s the polo shirt with the polo logo. I think it’s the most iconic piece that the brand has.

GETTING TO KNOW RALPH LAUREN

ADS INTERVIEWS

ADS Advertising, a vital sales tool for businesses to attract their consumers, can leave a lasting image of a brand and its products. These impressions rely on a consistent message across time to retain a brand's image. The advertising used to promote each campaign of Ralph Lauren has, over it's long history, undergone a drastic change, moving from a country club lifestyle, to ads with an urban touch and, finally, to performative Americana. Looking at Ralph Lauren campaigns from the early 80’s, the associated “WASP” style is very visible: pinstripe spread-collar shirts, Windsor knot ties and pencil striped blazers give the consumer the feeling that this will be their ticket into the elite. This upper class lifestyle is made visible through ads showing families on vacations and posing in front of sports cars sporting head to toe Ralph Lauren, and elegant women in masculine-cut suits with fur details. Ralph Lauren himself is also very present in this era of advertising, showing the close link to his personal way of living, which is essential to the core values of the brand. The first change in the brand’s advertising style can be seen during the 90’s. The models start to represent the real American population, moving from being primarily white to showing diverse racial and cultural backgrounds. A change in style is also visible, as the image of the brand appears more casual and sporty, and more closely aligned with the current trends of the 90’s. This was made very clear in their 1998 Spring/Summer ad, portraying the model in a low rise denim skirt and a cropped sweater. Ralph Lauren ads in the 90's also showed far more nudity. This could be related to the photographers used at the time, or reflect overall societal preferences. With the start of the new century, Ralph Lauren tried to move back to its original brand image of the classic country club lifestyle. However, even when linking back to their core values and the old image they wanted to portray, much of their imagery lacked the authenticity and realness seen in ads from previous decades, for example the Spring/Summer 2008 and 2010 campaigns. So, while they were correctly portraying the DNA of the brand, the setup and models appeared very staged and not attractive to an evolving audience. Additionally, there was a scandal following an ad released in 2009 showing model Filippa Hamilton with a disproportionately small waist, later revealed to be a photoshop mistake. The most evident shift in the 2010’s was that the clothing shown in the advertisements became brighter and more colorful. Although the same elite aesthetic was being pursued as in Ralph Lauren's Golden Age, the modern scenarios did not seem like an impromptu snapshot of a real person living this lifestyle, but like an arranged, staged photoshoot. This unrelatable aesthetic has remained unchanged even today.

INTERVIEWS

Despite the brand’s 50 year history, Ralph Lauren himself has only accepted two in-depth televised interviews; with Charlie Rose in 1993 and Oprah Winfrey in 2011. Restricting what he chooses to share with the world allows these two interviews to offer an intimate insight into the personal and work life of Ralph Lauren and his creative process, inspirations and aspirations.

What these interviews clearly reveal is his dedication to the brand and his familyoriented nature, both of which are also showcased in two documentaries about him and his brand. A spotlight on Ralph Lauren as part of Bloomberg’s “Game Changers” series in 2015 shows rarely-seen footage of his work and focuses on his stratospheric rise to global success. Emmy-award winning documentary Very Ralph, released in 2019, emphasizes this in the lead up to the 50th anniversary show, as well as allowing viewers to better understand Ralph Lauren, the man behind the brand.

OPRAH WINFREY:

"SO IT ALL STARTED WITH A TIE?" RALPH LAUREN:

"IT STARTED BECAUSE I FELT I HAD SOMETHING TO SAY."

THE MEDIA

OWNED EARNED PAID

OWNED

WEBSITE The Ralph Lauren website is easy to use and navigate, and is consistent with the “picture perfect” feel also present on their social media. It offers all product categories: menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, footwear, accessories, fragrance and homeware.

The use of color is minimal, however six different fonts are used throughout creating incoherence. As their primary point of sale in online distribution, the website lacks in intrigue, from staid product presentation to inauthentic visuals. More emphasis could be placed on showcasing additional features such as online services and optimizing the newsletter. INSTAGRAM Followers: 13.6M Bio: Defining timeless style since 1967 Content: Campaigns, Celebrities

Ralph Lauren’s Instagram page is very clean and crisp with an emphasis on picture over video content. This is where they are most active, posting their most up to date visuals alongside relevant hashtags. The language is descriptive and aspirational, using many call-to-actions to direct users the website as there is no ability to shop directly from the Instagram page.

TIKTOK Followers: 351.4K Likes: 1.4M Bio: Discover the World Of Ralph Lauren Content: Product focused

The aesthetic is “flawless” to the point that every post looks like an advert. The content has been edited to be TikTokspecific (it is length-appropriate), however, the language has not been adapted to the platform and there is no optimization of trending sounds or themes. FACEBOOK Likes: 9.3M Bio: Since 1967, Ralph Lauren has defined the essence of American style. Content: Special campaigns

Ralph Lauren use Facebook far less frequently than other social media platforms (the most recent post was in March 2022), and in a different way; rather than a product focus, emphasis is on highlighting social causes they contribute to and special holidays such as Mother’s Day. Engagement on this platform is also far lower than others. The use of many call-to-action phrases such as “learn about our efforts…” and “explore our…” proves the function of the Ralph Lauren Facebook page to direct users to the website. YOUTUBE Subscribers: 150K Content: Runways, Interviews, Campaigns

Much like their use of TikTok, the content is primarily advertising campaigns, with a particular emphasis on short interviews, functioning to portray their current faces and create a more personal connection with the viewer.

EARNED

When analysing the earned media, it is evident that most of the conversation surrounding Ralph Lauren is not driven by genuine interest in the brand and what they produce, but secondary conversation that they are caught up in. Top themes relating to Ralph Lauren are “black”, “white”, “red”, and closer inspection of the sources indicates that this references the black and white suit worn by Reynolds on the red carpet at the 2022 Met Gala. The most influential sites driving conversation about the brand are news platforms who are not specifically discussing Ralph Lauren, but the unmissable event of the Met Gala. This is further evidenced by the fact that engagement was far lower in the days prior to May 2nd (the day of the event). Alongside this, and of equal importance, is the large conversation around resale; Poshmark, ShopMyCloset and Ebay are all related themes with consistently high engagement throughout the 30 days. This is not surprising given Poshmark is a collaborative platform with over 80million users across the US, Canada and Australia, together producing 4.7 thousand posts in 30 days and a huge potential reach. This is important for Ralph Lauren to note as the huge interest in resale may reflect an decreased interest in buying first-hand. A large proportion of the conversation is fall-out from discussion surrounding K-Pop, again not relating directly to the brand but to the style of these celebrities. The fact that there is not a highly engaged conversation surrounding the brand is further supported by analysis showing the most common related searches to Ralph Lauren are products such as “polo” and “sweatshirt”. Moreover, this reveals interest tends to peak on Black Friday and Christmas each year, suggesting most interest is related to discounting or gifting Ralph Lauren (further information in Appendix A). Overall, this suggests there are many opportunities untaken by the brand in terms of their online presence. 99

PAID

Meta Ads Active campaigns: ~530 Countries: USA, UK, France (amongst others across all continents) Type of Content: RTW, Accessories, Ralph’s Stories Book Format: Single videos, carousels Language: Direct, bold, informative

The analysis of ads on Facebook and Instagram reveals that the Ralph Lauren brand is present in many countries. Ad placement is mixed; those focusing on a specific product are found only on Facebook, while those for collections are also on Instagram. A notable current ad for their new book is specifically tailored to each location it is shown in. Ads are very in line with organic content: the tone of voice is very direct and informative, for example repetitions of the word “iconic” and alluding to the Ralph Lauren world. Every add includes a call-to-action directing the viewer to the website.

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THE DIFFUSION

VISUAL MERCHANDISING DISTRIBUTION

VISUAL MERCHANDISING

Ralph Lauren stores align with the brand’s vision, extending folded polos and sweatshirts on tables or shelves, and the values of high quality and prestige into their physical trousers are laid out on tables. Each clothing rail is full, and spaces. every shelf and table is completely covered with both clothes and props that add to the aesthetic. Watches and The stores are designed with the look and feel of an English jewelry are presented in cabinets, most often with props. country home or hunting lodge, making consumers feel like The changing rooms have rich velvet curtains and each they are in someone’s house rather than a retail store. There has an antique-style lamp, re-emphasizing the idea of are pieces of art, fireplaces, antique chairs and cushions, and luxury. Persian rugs throughout the rooms, each of which is dedicated to a sub-brand of Ralph Lauren. This is a strong Overall it is very colorful, from the wooden walls to plaid retail strategy; by making customers feel more comfortable, accents and the merchandise itself, creating a busy, highly they are likely to spend more. decorated aesthetic. This encourages a welcoming and unstaged feeling – one that is not replicated in the brand's Products are displayed as outfits on mannequins offline presence – but is overwhelming for the customer. (encouraging multi-product purchases), on clothing rails,

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IN-STORE SERVICES Private styling with brand specialist Made to measure clothing Made to order accessories Tailoring adjustments Custom monogramming and embroidery Secure store delivery

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DISTRIBUTION

Ralph Lauren is headquartered in New York City, New York. The brand has eight flagship stores located across the globe in Chicago, New York, Milan, London, Greenwich, Paris, Tokyo and Moscow. The brand operates in three divisions: wholesale, retail, and licensing. Brand apparel is located in over 10,000 wholesale stores. Ralph Lauren sells directly to customers throughout the world via 435 directly operated stores, 70 Club Monaco outlets, 510 concessional-based shopswithin-shops, 367 full-price and factory retail stores, and numerous e-commerce websites. Ralph Lauren’s Black Label is sold in exclusive stores, while other labels can be found in luxury department stores such as Barneys and Neiman Marcus. The Ralph Lauren website has around 10 e-commerce portals globally, however the majority of retail stores do not offer online services or distribution.

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108

IDENTITY:

AN INWARD PERSPECTIVE

VISION, MISSION, VALUES ARCHETYPE PERSONA 3D BUSINESS MODEL

VISION MISSION VALUES

TO REPRESENT A LIFESTYLE THAT EMBODIES AMERICAN VALUES AND THE PURSUIT OF PLEASURE.

TO MAKE THE DREAM OF AN ELITE LIFESTYLE ATTAINABLE THROUGH TIMELESS STYLE, PREMIUM QUALITY, AND AUTHENTICITY.

RALPH LAUREN PORTRAYS THE VALUES OF LONGEVITY, AMERICANISM, AND QUALITY IN THE CREATION OF THE ASPIRATIONAL BRAND.

ARCHETYPE

THE REDWOOD

This is the foundational embodiment of the brand, residing between Substance and Thought quadrants. Rooted in recognized authority, role model tendencies, and stability, Ralph Lauren remains constant as the world around it cycles through stages of turmoil and disorder. Like the Redwood, the brand in its early years grew rapidly, but has continued to grow into something so large that it has amassed to an entity beyond full recognition. Starting small and authentic, the brand is now such a powerful entity that its story is lost, challenging to understand and fully see from an aerial view. Finally, after years and years of growth, the species as a whole is going extinct, similar to Ralph Lauren as a brand.

PERSONA

Andrew is 32 years old and lives in Greenwich with his fiancé Melanie, whom he met while doing Yale law school. Growing up, he would spend his summers in the Hamptons with his family, which is one of his dearest memories. Currently, Andrew is working for a law firm in New York City where he has commuted every day, since he and his fiancé decided to move out of the city. In his free time, Andrew likes to play golf and meet his friends at the local golf club. He is very pragmatic and intellectual, which can be recognized through his personal style: When he is not wearing a suit for work, Andrew likes qualitative pieces that do not go out of style, but resonate with his comfortable lifestyle. His favorite leisure outfit consists of boat shoes, a polo shirt and cable knit sweater paired with chinos. One of Andrew’s favorite brands is Ralph Lauren, as it gives him the option to buy different versions of pieces he likes, making it easy to look put together and polished without putting too much thought into what he is wearing.

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3D BUSINESS MODEL ID/CLIENT The idea of the Ralph Lauren consumer's personal style and beliefs is very clear.

This person could be either female or male, valuing high quality, exclusivity, fine living and prestige. The consumer is family oriented and prefers to dress in timeless classics, wanting to be recognised for his or her wealth and sophistication. Being an aspirational lifestyle brand, Ralph Lauren can be adopted by everyone aspiring to, or having, similar values and way of living as Ralph Lauren himself. USE/OCCASION Based on the fact that Ralph Lauren is selling the America Dream and entry to a specific lifestyle, the brand gives its customer the opportunity to achieve a polished and timeless look that can be used for any occasion. Brands like the Ralph Lauren Purple label feature luxurious and elegant high end pieces, while Polo Ralph Lauren more affordable and casual options.

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PRODUCT/TECHNOLOGY Ralph Lauren is a brand that sells a dream. By purchasing a piece from the brand, the consumer instantly receives the feeling of belonging to this country club lifestyle and having achieved the American Dream, just like Ralph Lauren himself did. Being an aspirational brand, it has created the desire to belong, which it achieves through symbolism.

The most recognized symbol used by the brand is the Polo Player. This portrays strength, quality and competitive spirit. The association to Polo as a sport gives it a luxurious and wealthy touch, even in the lower priced segments of the company. The Horse symbolizes freedom, loyalty, courage and willpower. They are considered noble and elegant animals, aligning perfectly with the Ralph Lauren brand. Additionally, it can be linked to the core identity of Ralph Lauren, capturing the indigenous American culture. Overall the iconic Ralph Lauren pieces, such as ties and the Polo shirt, serve as a symbol of belonging to the specific elite that the brand is targeting and selling an “entry ticket” to.

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IDENTITY:

AN OUTWARD PERSPECTIVE

MARKET ANALYSIS CONVERSATION: CONALL COMPETITORS BENCHMARK POSITIONING SWOT

HOW FAMILIAR ARE YOU WITH THE BRAND RALPH LAUREN? WHEN DID YOU LAST PURCHASE SOMETHING FROM RALPH LAUREN?

16.9% 25.9% 31.3% 25.9%

HOW HAVE/WOULD YOU PURCHASE RALPH LAUREN?

0.8% 32.9% 42.4% 23.9%

WHAT INFLUENCES YOU THE MOST TO PURCHASE RALPH LAUREN?

200 ZILLENNIALS WERE ASKED…

MARKET ANALYSIS

6.2% 24.7% 32.5% 36.6% 6.3% 62.1% 31.7%

NEVER HEARD OF IT FAMILIAR BUT NOT INTERESTED FAMILIAR AND INTERESTED LOVE THIS BRAND

NEVER IN THE PAST 10 YEARS IN THE PAST 5 YEARS IN THE PAST 12 MONTHS

WOULDN'T PURCHASE PURCHASE SECOND HAND/THRIFTED PURCHASE BRAND NEW PURCHASE MIXTURE OF SECOND HAND AND BRAND NEW

BRAND NAME ONLY BRAND NAME AND DESIGN DESIGN ONLY

IMAGE 1

WHICH OF THESE IMAGES DO YOU MOST STRONGLY ASSOCIATE WITH RALPH LAUREN?

WHEN YOU THINK OF RALPH LAUREN, WHAT WORDS COME TO MIND?

DO YOU FOLLOW THE BRAND ON INSTAGRAM?

16% 84%

IMAGE 2

YES

CLASSY ELITE LIFESTYLE PREPPY MOST COMMONLY STATED:

52.3% 41.7% 6% IMAGE 1

IMAGE 2

IMAGE 3

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A CONVERSATION WITH CONALL DOYLE

Conall Doyle is an Irish TikToker who took the app by storm with his campaign to “wear Ralph Lauren every day until they sponsor me.” Now with 124.1K followers and 4.9M likes, he has become infamous as the “Ralph Lauren Guy”. He answered some questions about his opinions of the brand today.

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When and why did your love for Ralph Lauren start?

Would you rather buy vintage or new Ralph Lauren?

I had a vintage shop with my friend selling anything and everything! I ended up with a wardrobe with loads of things I didn’t want to get rid of. I wasn’t selling anything because I wanted to keep everything!

Definitely vintage all day long! Though I do treat myself to some new stuff.

My friend and I decided to keep one designer each: I decided to keep all of Ralph Lauren and my friend decided to keep Burberry and then we’d sell everything else. I picked Ralph Lauren because if you want to look rock and roll you can wear the 90’s leather jackets, but if you want to look preppy you have their sweaters. They cover all styles of fashion but Burberry always has the same style through each decade – it isn’t versatile and that was too restrictive for me.

Why did you start a TikTok account about Ralph Lauren?

I was supposed to sell all of my Ralph Lauren and go to America when I left uni but I couldn’t go because of COVID so I was stuck with all the clothes. A friend told me to do a TikTok showing off the collection. I posted it a year ago and it blew up and then it spiraled - now I am Ralph Lauren Guy!

How relevant do you think the brand is today?

Personally, the new stuff isn’t always for me. It is diversifying but that’s because of new fashion trends. However, because of how cool it was and how much of a statement it made in history, it will always be a recognisable brand.

The old knitwear was like art. I spent a fortune on a child’s knitwear piece and I am actually going to get it framed. They just don't do it like they used to.”

What would you like to see from Ralph Lauren? Do you think the brand is missing something?

I think that they’re so behind with social media, their marketing team could be doing so much more. They brought back Denim and Supply recently, but anyone who buys and sells Ralph Lauren knows that it is the least valuable line.

You wonder if they are listening to anyone at all. You’d expect a high end brand to be more in tune with these sorts of things - their TikTok’s awful! When I got to 10K TikTok followers I compared my analytics with Ralph Lauren’s: I was getting 90K views per video while they were averaging 3K. Their social media part is really lacking and I am not really sure if they are interested in changing it.

How would you describe Ralph Lauren?

Timeless and classic.

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COMPETITOR

ANALYSIS

CALVIN KLEIN

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Designer Calvin Klein founded his brand in 1968 together with his business partner Barry Schwartz. As a lifestyle brand that exemplifies bold, progressive ideals and a seductive yet minimal aesthetic, they seek to reach an audience using provocative imagery. Besides underwear, the brand is known for its sexy everyday men’s and womenswear basics, the most famous being denim. Overall, the brand can be described as “pure American sportswear but done with style.”

TOMMY HILFIGER

Tommy Hilfiger, born and raised in New York like Ralph Lauren, founded his eponymous brand in 1985. It is most recognizable for its designs that are classic and preppy with a twist. The brand’s most iconic pieces include shirts, polos and sweatshirts with the red, white and blue trademark. Oversized versions of these pieces were embraced by the hip-hop world in the early 90s, making it one of the first brands that assiduously included rap stars and celebrities in their brand culture. Hilfiger’s goal is to be a designer lifestyle brand, portraying the American cool style of living.

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VINEYARD VINES

135

In 1998, brothers Shep & Ian Murray decided to quit their regular jobs and founded Vineyard Vines on Martha’s Vineyard. This is where they spent their summers growing up boating, fishing and chasing what they refer to as “the good life”. Since then, the brand known for its smiling pink whale logo has grown into an American lifestyle apparel brand offering products for the entire family. Their most iconic products include shirts with the whale logo and plaid button down shirts.

LACOSTE

Lacoste was founded by the legendary tennis champion Renė Lacoste in 1933. The logo was derived from his nickname, The Crocodile, which was given to him because of his playing style. Lacoste defied the given rules of innovation throughout his life, which led him to create the first short sleeved polo shirt in breathable fabric, designed to increase freedom of movement during play. The shirt led him to the founding of his brand that liberated fashion codes, with elegance as its founding values. Lacoste's most iconic pieces include tennis-inspired basics with the emblematic crocodile logo.

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ARMANI

137

In 1975, Giorgio Armani launched his namesake label, starting as a signature menswear line before evolving into a luxury fashion empire. When women started to penetrate the male dominated business world during the 80’s, they did not feel accepted or welcome. By creating a women’s suit and dressing them like men, Armani helped women enter the workplace, and revolutionized the fashion industry in the process. Today, the Armani label is still known for its power suits in simple colors for both men and women.

DOCKERS

Dockers, founded in 1986, revolutionized clothing habits by normalizing comfortable and cool apparel in the workplace. The brand was launched as a division of Levi Strauss in order to expand beyond its original roots. Dockers’ most iconic piece is their khaki pants, which take inspiration from those worn by miners in the 1920s. This style quickly became an American classic, bringing a new casual uniform to every guy’s wardrobe.

138

BANANA REPUBLIC

139

Banana Republic was founded in 1978 by Mel and Patricia Ziegler. The original name of the brand was “Banana Republic Travel & Safari Clothing Company”, which aimed at selling complementary items for a safari and travel lifestyle. It still aims at selling this passion of expedition-wear for faraway places, and is most recognizable for its high quality business-casual style.

SPERRY

Sperry, or Sperry Top-Sider, was founded in 1935 when Paul A. Sperry invented the first non-slip deck shoe after falling overboard. Icons such as JFK, Mr. Rogers and Paul Newman popularized the shoes as everyday wear. When dress codes began to shift in the 1960s, the Sperry Top-Sider became, and has remained, a staple wardrobe item for achieving the East Coast preppy look.

140

BENCHMARKING

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AUTHENTICITY

AMERICANISM

RALPH LAUREN

TOMMY HILFIGER

CALVIN KLEIN

DOCKERS

VINEYARD VINES

LACOSTE

ARMANI

3.5

SPERRY

BANANA REPUBLIC

NISM

HERITAGE

ASPIRATIONAL

TIMELESS

3.5

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POSITIONING MAP

ASPIRATIONAL

SPURIOUS AUTHENTIC

RALPH LAUREN

ATTAINABLE

144

S O 145

Undeniable brand recognition Strong heritage that is a consistent reference Iconic and memorable products of high quality and with lasting impact Brand extension into hospitality that acts to reinforce the aspirational lifestyle Genuine connection to meaningful charities

Partnership in (new) print media Utilization of UGC Utilization of app for community creation Optimization of existing buzz around resale New face(s) Shift in audience to GenZ and Millennial market Engaging consumers via email marketing

W T

Poor use of social media Too many sub-brands Inauthentic visual content across social media and advertisements Not aligned with the current American Dream Products outside of the "iconic" category are dated

Visible rebranding reminds of controversial past Brand DNA so strong it is hard for consumer perspective to change Competitors too far in ahead in social media use that it is hard to catch up

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THE RISING ACTION

Today’s fast-paced and ever-changing society presents an increasingly unstable situation for those within it. Coupled with a saturated and innovative competitive market and rapidly evolving consumer needs, brands face a progressively challenging landscape. Despite a strong heritage and iconic name, logo and products, Ralph Lauren is struggling to keep up with its audience’s desires; simply being a globally recognizable brand is not enough. While “American” is still the brand’s main synonym, the definition has evolved and Ralph Lauren is no longer all-encompassing of it. There are many routes Ralph Lauren could take to reaffirm its once-strong appeal to a wide audience from all walks of life by considering what appeals to consumers now; optimization of social media, clear storytelling and aligning with relevant media and faces. Ralph Lauren is a brand proven to stand the test of time and, with the right considerations, can emerge from the noise to satisfy consumer yearning for stability and reposition itself as the American lifestyle brand.

ACT II

SNAPSHOT OF NOW

SJT NOSTALGIA NEW AMERICAN DREAM

SOCIAL JUSTIFICATION THEORY Social Justification Theory (SJT) is a psychological concept that, though not created with fashion in mind, can be aptly applied to the question of why we dress the way we do.

According to this theory, people inherently search for stability from the guiding sources we are told to trust. These include governments, organizations and influential figures. However, when trust in our representatives of stability is threatened, we have to look elsewhere. An alternative method to find stability is to engage in Communal Nostalgia. This explains our desire to connect with elements of our shared history that we perceived as stable, unchanging and representative of an era that was fun and safe. Anyone can relate to these shared societal elements, regardless of whether you experienced them the first time round. Moreover, not only do we look to the past to regain stability in the present but, according to SJT, our instability makes this nostalgia even more enjoyable than normal.

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The original theorists of SJT cited “depressions, wars and natural disasters” as relevant cues for communal nostalgia. Add in climate change, Donald Trump’s presidency and the Covid-19 pandemic, and there is a strong mixture of reasons to believe that the “trustworthy” sources are not so. Brands that can incorporate nostalgia in innovative ways will be successful, especially in times when consumers need stability the most.

INTANGIBLE NOSTALGIA

Communal nostalgia invites us to look to the past to find stability, but does this nostalgia have to be tangible? What if, rather than looking to literal symbols of a pre-COVID era, society could be nostalgic for a feeling. Ralph Lauren isn't simply nostalgic because of its logo or name, but for the way it made people feel; like they were able to become part of something aspirational. As the brand aligned with the American Dream and accurately represented the desires at the time, it provided stability. Today, after a tumultuous two years, people aren’t nostalgic only for the polo shirts, but for the brand's (now lost) understanding, and authentic portrayal, of how people feel and what they desire. They remember the feeling Ralph Lauren was once able to provide them, and they want this back.

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THE NEW AMERICAN DREAM

The Old American Dream was achieved by reaching a defined level of success, portrayed through the attainment of a perfect house with a white picket fence, a good job, a nice car, and a nuclear family. The New American Dream replaces this notion of success with one of personal accomplishment. Instead of trying to reach a predetermined goal, that is unappealing or unachievable for many, it is up to each person to decide what success means to them.

The New American Dream is the pursuit of self fulfillment. There is no definition of what this looks like, and everyone’s interpretation of the dream is celebrated no matter how different it may be from another’s. 155

MARKET TRENDS

SHIFT TO LUXURY ZILLENNIAL TRENDS

SHIFT TO LUXURY

LUXURY IN AMERICA The USA has become the most dominant consumer market for luxury goods since the pandemic, overtaking China. American luxury spending in April 2022 had increased 8% compared with the same month in 2021, and there was an overall increase in luxury spending of 16% in the first quarter of 2022. The luxury market was the first to recover post-COVID and continues to thrive due to more local consumption throughout the US.

The appetite for luxury goods has grown in the US, largely due to revenge shopping and the fact that many were able to save during lockdowns. High income consumers in America (those who make over $125,000) spent 21% more on luxury goods compared with pre-pandemic. It is clear that the USA is an emerging luxury market, so prioritizing these consumers will be beneficial to high-level brands in 2022. 159

ZILLENNIAL TRENDS GEN Z AND MILLENNIALS At the same time, they are the most distrusting of Following two years of pandemic, these generations are governments and influential figures - those that are seeking authenticity and stability. supposed to provide stability. Studies also show that individuals in their late-teens to mid-twenties have 70% say that a brand having a point of view makes them stronger negative views on governmental issues. more influential, and there is an appetite for “realness” on Compared with the general population, they are 7.2% less social media. 76% of Gen Z and Millennials consider it likely to have confidence in the honesty of elections, have important that a brand is pro-diversity and 82% trust a brand 5.1% less confidence in their national government, and are more if they use real customers in their advertising. 6.2% less likely to applaud the performance of their national leader. Their main priorities in 2022 are to protect their mental and physical health, linking to their desire for stability. This Considering together the desire for authenticity, mental generation are the ones suffering the most from poor mental health struggles and feelings of distrust, it is logical to health and stress: 34% of Gen Z and 19% of Millennials say assume that young people are the most likely to be lacking their mental health is worse than a year ago, with 46% in stability and, therefore, engage more with brands saying they are stressed or anxious all or most of the time – a tapping into nostalgia - tangible or intangible - to fix this. statistic that increases to 53% for women.

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NEW CONCEPT

re RALPH

RE FINE THE BRAND STRUCTURE. RE ALIGN WITH THE AMERICAN DREAM. RE VITALIZE THE STORY.

Ralph Lauren is no stranger to the American Dream, nor representing it authentically. The problem lies in its inability to evolve with a shift to the New American Dream. The bigger problem? No brand is doing this in the post-covid climate. Therefore, there is an opportunity to engage a new target market who are yearning for someone to provide them with stability.

The rebranding strategy of Ralph Lauren centers around grasping this opportunity through intangible nostalgia. People remember the feeling that Ralph Lauren was once able to provide, through its campaigns to its clothing, and they want this again: Ralph Lauren is in a prime position to regain what it has lost. Through a strategy of brand simplification and effective communication, Ralph Lauren will be taken back to its authentic roots to accurately realign with, and represent, the New American Dream. In doing so, the brand will provide the necessary stability to those who need it through intangible nostalgia, reminding people of the feeling the brand once instilled.

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NEW IDENTITY:

AN INWARD PERSPECTIVE

VISION, MISSION, VALUES ARCHETYPE NEW TARGET PERSONA CONVERSATION: SOPHIE 3D BUSINESS MODEL

VISION MISSION VALUES

TO REPRESENT A LIFESTYLE THAT EMBODIES THE PURSUIT OF PLEASURE AND VALUES OF REALNESS AND COMMUNITY.

TO MAKE EVERY INDIVIDUAL'S ASPIRATIONS ATTAINABLE THROUGH TIMELESS STYLE, PREMIUM QUALITY, AND AUTHENTICITY.

RALPH LAUREN PORTRAYS THE VALUES OF LONGEVITY, QUALITY, SELF-EXPRESSION AND UNITY IN THE CREATION OF THE ADAPTABLE BRAND.

ARCHETYPE

THE PINE

The new metaphorical embodiment of Ralph Lauren retains many of the symbols that it previously held, still at the intersection of Substance and Thought. As such, the brand regains its position as a constant in an ever-changing and disruptive world. The Pine Tree represents wisdom and longevity, much like Ralph Lauren’s values of quality and withstanding tests of time. Similarly to its previous embodiment, the Redwood, Pines grow rapidly in their early years. However, they require pruning to control their growth and to correct for potential damage. The rebranding strategy acts as this pruning, taming the brand’s wild growth and returning it to something that is stable and strong, just like a Pine.

NEW TARGET THE IN-BETWEEN Ralph Lauren has the opportunity to entice a new consumer: the In-Between generation. They don’t fully identify with either Gen Z or Millennials; they are too young to remember many Millennial references, but too old to understand Gen Z ones. They are between 18 and 28 years old, the ages at which they are experiencing most of the big “firsts” such as graduating university, stepping on the career ladder, starting a family and other major milestones.

These consumers have a strong focus on community, particularly those which share the common interests of fixing societal issues and supporting each other in using self-expression to achieve personal success. The way in which these shared interests are exemplified will be different to everyone. The In-Between reject conventional boundaries and idealized standards, instead valuing having a strong identity through selfexpression, inclusivity and transparency. They no longer subscribe to the old American Dream which depicted a specific mold that everyone had to fill to achieve success. They believe in the renewed American Dream where there is no mold. Instead of success, the priority is personal fulfillment, of which there has no pre-determined image.

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PERSONA

Sophie Britton is a 21 year old from Chicago, currently studying Global Health Sciences, Spanish and Legal Studies at Northwestern University. She is part of a close knit family, being the middle of three sisters, and some of her fondest memories involve them. In her free time, Sophie enjoys many pastimes including running, crochet, spending time with her friends, finding new restaurants to visit, going on walks, cooking and thrift shopping. Like many other Gen Z’s, she is vocal about societal topics that are important to her such as climate change, racial injustice and women’s health issues. Basics are the core of her wardrobe - thrifted and purchased new - though she is interested in keeping up with current fashion trends through social media. She enjoys drawing on various other styles to incorporate into her own and, together with her friends, also spends time making her clothing. Though Ralph Lauren may not be a brand she searches for regularly, she is open minded and excited about exploring how she can combine a brand with such strong heritage and symbolism into her closet.

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A CONVERSATION WITH SOPHIE BRITTON

Sophie is the perfect embodiment of the prospective Ralph Lauren consumer. She answered some questions about her style, her perceptions of Ralph Lauren and the direction she’d like to see the brand take.

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How would you describe your style?

In three words: comfortable, trend-adjacent, cohesive. I have a lot of pieces that I can just throw together and it works. I feel like a lot of my clothes now are thrifted which means I have a lot of basics and then a few statement pieces that are easy to throw together. For the most part it is very comfortable, but I do try and pay attention to trends a little bit. For example “coastal grandma” and “coastal granddaughter” are trending on TikTok and, while I try to incorporate those elements into my style, I wouldn’t use those words to describe my style. What I’ve done recently with my closet is to get rid of a lot of the standalone pieces that you can only really wear with one outfit and thrifted a lot of basics - simple dresses and button downs. It’s very rare I buy statement pieces first hand now unless it’s for something specific. For example, my school held a festival so I bought a pair of red cowboy boots but I paired them with a top I’d crocheted and shorts I already had.

I now have a wardrobe that is more flexible and feels more stable.

How familiar are you with Ralph Lauren?

Not very! When I think of that brand and what I know about it, I either think of my dad wearing Ralph Lauren shirts or finding it in the thrift shop. I think of buttondowns and preppy - maybe a little bit dated but in a way that is kind of cool.

When was the last time you purchased something that was Ralph Lauren?

I’d say in the past 1 or 2 years I’ve probably thrifted something. It probably wasn’t an intentional Ralph Lauren purchase, but it just happened to be something that was cute. I wasn’t going to intentionally buy that product and it was definitely second hand.

Would you only purchase it second hand? Would you ever buy Ralph Lauren new?

I wouldn’t say I would only do second hand, but I’ve never felt motivated to go and look at first hand opportunities whether that’s in store or online. I’d be open to it but there’s other brands I’d think of to purchase from before that one.

What brands do you typically purchase from if you’re buying new?

I have really transitioned to thrifting 90% of the time when I’m shopping, but when I do buy new it’s usually Free People or Aritzia and the occasional Zara purchase.

So where would you like to see Ralph Lauren go in the future?

I think they have the opportunity to mirror this newer movement within fashion that combats fast fashion cycles and micro trends because there is a collective realization that, in the same way we as a society have realized the American Dream is not objective, fashion is also not objective. It is so subjective and I think people have been able to find their voice more. I feel like the idea of taking a Ralph Lauren piece and allowing people to run with it would really cater towards not only a changing audience but a changing collective view on society.

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3D BUSINESS MODEL ID/CLIENT Much like the existing consumer, the new client has a strong sense of their personal style and beliefs. They value individuality and self-expression and are on a journey to success through exploration of their passions. They dress to represent these passions and enjoy drawing on multiple influences and mixing brands. This client chooses Ralph Lauren for its adaptability and its ease to fit into any wardrobe.

USE/OCCASION Ralph Lauren is no longer selling entry to an elite lifestyle, but rather the opportunity to explore one’s own style and achieve personal dreams. In fact, the new occasion of use becomes far broader than it has previously been, in line with the wide ranging, individual backgrounds of the new client, from the most to least formal. The brand’s ability to be appropriate in all such occasions is evidenced through the particular style of each line, ranging from the luxurious and elegant to the more easy-going polos.

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PRODUCT/ TECHNOLOGY The brand’s symbolism of the Polo Player is still very strong. However, rather than simply portraying only an aspirational, luxurious and wealthy lifestyle, it has become representative of how Ralph Lauren can make the consumer feel. It is how they best represent the feeling of intangible nostalgia - the sense of yearning for the stability Ralph Lauren used to provide.

The polo shirt remains the most iconic product as a representation of the brand’s heritage, and their evolution into the future.

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THE EXECUTION

TOUCHPOINT MAP FINANCIAL OVERVIEW STREAMLINING STORE SIMPLIFICATION CAMPAIGN reRALPH BRAND VOICE BUDGET FOR STRATEGY STRATEGY EXPANSION

TOUCHPOINT MAP

MEDIA

INSTAGRAM

INSTAGRAM + YOUTUBE

DAZED

#howIRalph Video Campaign + Posts

Introduction of Emma Chamberlain as new face

Wardrobe Tour #howIRalph

Branded Content

OUTLET

STORE

SUB BRANDS

EVENT

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Closure of all American outlets

NEW YORK 8 month remodeling of New York Flagship stores

CHICAGO + LA 8 month remodeling of Chicago & LA Flagship stores

reRALPH Opening of concept store

LONDON

PARIS

8 month remodeling of London Flagship store

8 month remodeling of Paris Flagship store

MILAN 8 month remodeling of Milan Flagship store

reRALPH Store opening event

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FINANCIAL OVERVIEW

Ralph Lauren Corporation currently owns 435 stores encompassing all sub-brands (pre-streamlining), of which 217 are located in the US. The company experienced a drastic loss of revenue in 2021, as a consequence of the Covid-19 pandemic. Aside from having to close approximately 100 stores, they made a loss of $1,7 billion from 2020 to 2021, which resulted in a negative Net Income of -$121 million.

inflation, the company is increasing its prices in order to counter higher freight and production costs. Ralph Lauren is trying to attract high-end luxury customers who were unaffected by the pandemic as they return to old routines and begin to splurge on fashion and lifestyle products once more. Following this strategy has helped the brand to somewhat regain its position over more accessible brands, which are experiencing a decline in profit due to a lack of consumer spending power.

In 2022, the company revealed a 41% increase in annual revenues making it return to pre-pandemic levels of $6.22 Additionally, it should be noted that after several years of billion. Last year, Ralph Lauren saw a significant increase in unfaltering advertising expenses, these have been current assets compared to the preceding years, indicating doubled to $456 million compared with last year. that the corporation is experiencing growth. Despite rising

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STREAMLINING As Ralph Lauren became Lost In The Noise, they also created noise. At present, the brand has over ten subbrands which presents a confusing and messy image to the consumer. Moreover, the brand isn't optimizing or promoting many of these sub-brands, meaning they are losing relevance. The sub-brands will be streamlined to just five by eliminating and incorporating them as sub-lines, to maintain all elements of the Ralph Lauren DNA in a more succinct manner: Ralph Lauren: Ralph Lauren Collection, Purple Label, Lauren Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Kids, Ralph Lauren Fragrance Polo Ralph Lauren: Polo Sport, RLX, Polo Golf, Pink Pony Polo Pink Pony Polo will be reduced to a monoproduct line with a larger % of each being donated to charity Double RL: remains with increased investment and promotion Ralph Lauren Home: Ralph Lauren Home and Lauren Ralph Lauren Home Hospitality: Polo Bar (NYC), Ralph’s Restaurant (Paris), RL Restaurant (Chicago), Ralph’s Coffee (global), Ralph’s Coffee and Bar (London)

The sub brand, Chaps, will be removed. All Ralph Lauren outlets and stores within malls will be closed. Closing stores begs the question: what happens to leftover stock? In the case of this Ralph Lauren rebranding, there are a number of options: stock can be redistributed throughout remaining standalone stores, some pieces can be donated through the already existing method used by the Lauren subscription service, and others can be incorporated into reRALPH to be resold or, in the future, part of a reRALPH expansion into upcycling.

MOTIVATION The present overcrowded structure is too much for the consumer to take in. In a world that is overrun with confusion and information, when people participate in activities to “escape” the real world, they want it to be as simple as possible; when other things are hard, we want our escapes to be easy.

Additionally, trying to do so much means that the brand does nothing authentically. By stripping back the number of brands and shifting the focus on just a few, Ralph Lauren can genuinely and accurately represent the meaning of each. In doing so, they can align with the New American Dream from multiple aspects while maintaining authenticity and providing stability to a wide range of consumers. The sheer number of Ralph Lauren stores, especially in the US, only adds to the overwhelming brand presence and may even damage brand image. Though the brand analysis reveals a strong interest in discounted Ralph Lauren, removing these stores will reaffirm the brand as a luxury and disassociate them from lower-level brands. While some consumers may be lost at first, there are alternative Ralph Lauren spaces (that will be introduced) where they can be satisfied. BUDGET Outlet Stores in America: 193 Restructuring in 2021: $236,800,000 Restructuring American Outlet stores: $250,000,000

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STORE SIMPLIFICATION

In order to support the strategy of downsizing Ralph Lauren, the store designs will be adapted to a more minimal aesthetic. Overall, the brand's stores are intended to transmit a feeling of comfort and coming home. Currently, the visual merchandising of the stores does not align with what the target customers’ home would look like because, just like society, it has evolved. Thus, each sub-brand's section will be decorated with pieces from the Ralph Lauren home lines, focusing on the modern collections in order to move away from the current “English style with an inviting American spirit”. Each of the five sub-brands retained in the portfolio will have a slightly different interior design that appeals to the target audience. They will all express the new, modern Ralph Lauren aesthetic, where the existing heavy wooden palette will be replaced with a lighter and more neutral one. During the try-on experience, an interactive mirror in the changing rooms will give the customers the opportunity to adjust lighting and music. Additionally, the mirror will include technology that recognises what the customer is wearing and suggests items they can pair with this piece. By clicking a “try on now” button which will appear on the screen, a sales assistant will bring the piece in the correct size to the customer.

MOTIVATION As outlined in Act I, the store experience is overwhelming due to the busy visual merchandising. By giving each subbrand a dedicated aesthetic and an overall simplification, the store experience will be far clearer, easier to understand and, as such, connect with the concept of stability.

Ralph Lauren was once at the forefront of in-store technology, and the new stores aim to regain this title. Adding innovative mirror technology to the customer experience will make it unique to each person’s preferences, aligning with the new American dream that is to be interpreted differently by everyone. More so, it will offer a sense of stability to the consumer by combining human interaction with a technological experience. BUDGET New York Madison Avenue: $47,671,000 New York Double RL Broadway: $27,588,500 Beverly Hills: $24,524,000 Chicago: $37,819,000 Milano: $16,354,000 London: $26,756,000 Paris: $16,208,000

RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION MEN: MODERN ICONS

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RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION WOMEN: DESERT MODERN

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RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION WOMEN: MOCKUP

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DOUBLE RL: JOURNEY’S END

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RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION POLO: MODERN EQUESTRIAN

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CAMPAIGN #howIRalph The #howIRalph Campaign will strategically take place over Summer of 2023, following the streamlining of sub-brands, the renovation of the main flagship stores in the US and Europe, and leading up to the opening of the reRALPH concept store during NY fashion week. This is the perfect time to target the US market, especially following the major changes that the brand has made that will generate buzz about them on platforms like Forbes Business and Business of Fashion.

LATE JUNE #howIRalph Video Campaign + Posts

In order to introduce the #howIRalph campaign, a series of polaroid pictures showing everyday people styling Ralph Lauren will be posted. This will be on the "model's" own Instagram pages and reshared by Ralph Lauren in order to encourage user generated content. At the same time (in mid June), the brand will introduce the campaign video on Instagram. The models (those in the polaroids) will be asked questions about their personality and style, after which they are thrown an item of Ralph Lauren to style any way they want, ending with the campaign tag line This Is How I Ralph. 205

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MID JULY Introduce Emma Chamberlain as the new face of RL.

Emma Chamberlain will be introduced as the new face of Ralph Lauren in mid July with a collaborative video showing who she is and how she "Ralph's". This will be shared as a collaborative post on both the brand's and Emma's Instagram accounts. This will be followed by a post on only Ralph Lauren's page, further introducing her with a short bio portraying her authentic personality and why she is a great fit for the brand.

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ONE WEEK LATER Emma Chamberlain closet tour with RL Youtube video, collaborative reel, and article in Dazed Digital.

One week later, this will be followed by the first in a YouTube video series of closet tours inside people's homes. This campaign begins with a visit to Emma's home, where she will show her wardrobe, describe her style and show her favorite pieces in her closet. Additionally, she will put together 2 to 3 outfits consisting of a mix of Ralph Lauren and her own clothes.

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3.1M

#howIRalph #RalphLauren #EmmaChamberlain

EMMA CHAMBERLAIN |this is how I Ralph. 2,894,234 views Jun 26, 2023

Sitting down with Ralph Laur

The most iconic closet... of the century? Emma Chamberlain walks us through her coveted space and how she's perfected making RL her own. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH RALPH LAUREN

8th June 2023

#howIRalph 8 IMAGES

Emma Chamberlain is known for being authentic, unapologetically herself, and a fashion icon. As the new face of Ralph

While the campaign videos are being released, Ralph Lauren will begin a branded content collaboration with Dazed Digital. Photos specifically for this purpose will be taken at each closet visit to be published alongside an extended interview with the star of that week's video.

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ONCE A WEEK IN AUGUST

One friend of Emma's shows their closet and how they Ralph.

After this, Emma will take over as host, visiting one of her friends each week in August, showing their wardrobe and #howIRalph outfit. During every visit, a polaroid will be taken of the person which will later be put on the wall in the reRALPH store. An associated reel will be shared as a collaborative Instagram post between said friend and Ralph Lauren. Through this, Ralph Lauren will gain exposure and grow its audience by being introduced in a new way to Emma Chamberlain's large following, while at the same time growing and strengthening its own community with the help of the user generated content.

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THE EVENT In mid September, the reRALPH concept store and photo wall campaign will be launched during NY Fashion Week, with Emma as the host. This event will be small and intimate, emphasizing the authenticity of the the brand and those who now represent it.

In the following months, influencers similar to Emma Chamberlain will be introduced to continue the campaign in other relevant cities such as Chicago, LA, and London.

MOTIVATION The #howIRalph campaign intends to show that Ralph Lauren can be a brand for everyone no matter their background or dream. By showing that it is able to represent different types of dreams in an authentic way, it gives the consumer stability and creates a strong community of people who believe in the brand, even if their dreams might differ.

Including Emma Chamberlain, who is known for being honest and showing her true self, as the face of Ralph Lauren ties all of these elements together. At present, Emma is not active on YouTube, the platform she initially gained her following on, so her followers are seeking to fill the void of content she used to provide. Her current appearances on YouTube are through other branded videos only. One of the most recent collaborations, her interviews with Vogue at the Met Gala, generated an average of 1.8 million views per video. Taking this opportunity and the new audience the brand would be gaining into account, this communication strategy perfectly aligns with the authentic rebranding of Ralph Lauren. Equally, branded content with Dazed Digital will connect Ralph Lauren with a new audience and grow their brand awareness. Dazed Digital features much more unstaged, "imperfect" content and have an audience in-line with the intended new target, therefore granting Ralph Lauren access to a new group of people in an authentic way. BUDGET Media and Advertising: $350,080,000 Brand Face: $5,616,000 Campaign Production: $21,000

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RALPH

The reRALPH Concept Store will be opened in New York, the birthplace of Ralph Lauren and flagship store location. It is a peer-to-peer, community-based resale location allowing the sale and purchase of pre-loved Ralph Lauren pieces. Sellers will be able to take their Ralph Lauren garments to the store to be sold. These will be authenticated and valued, and sellers will redeem “RR Points” which can be used as a gift voucher at any location within the Ralph Lauren world; reRALPH, Ralph Lauren retail stores, restaurants and Ralph’s Coffee. To incentivise sellers to donate to reRALPH rather than other resale platforms, they will be offered exclusive gifts such as products, invitations to events and discounts if they use this platform. Similarly, these rewards will be offered as part of a tier system of RR Points when certain milestones are reached.

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There will also be an equivalent digital platform on RalphLauren.com that functions in the same way but with the added ability for conversation between buyers and sellers. This concept store will be replicated in other flagship locations in the US and other key cities including London, Paris and Hong Kong as part of a long-term strategy.

MOTIVATION The global second hand apparel market is expected to grow three times faster than the global apparel market by 2026, with North America being the main driver of this. Growth here is even faster than the global average and 57% of American consumers resold in 2021.

Lauren pieces can act as the literal representation of the intangible nostalgia that consumers are searching for. As such, reRALPH provides an experiential opportunity for stability and, together with the online platform, creates a community of like-minded people.

Resale of Ralph Lauren is already popular, driving a large BUDGET proportion of the online discussion about the brand. New Store: $196,500 Coupled with the increase in resale culture, largely driven by Opening Event: $12,950 Gen Z and Millennial consumers, this is a strong opportunity for Ralph Lauren to profit from an existing, booming trend, and appeal to the new consumer in an innovative way. While instability doesn’t necessarily require fixing through physical nostalgic symbols, vintage or second hand Ralph 214

RALPH IN STORE

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RALPH ONLINE

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BRAND VOICE The #howIRalph campaign, alongside store closures, flagship renovations and introduction of the reRALPH concept store, acts as the “wow factor” introduction of the rebranding strategy that will be continued throughout all aspects of Ralph Lauren. This includes more diverse model selection, simplification extending to their website, and allowing more candid content (including user-generated) on social media platforms. Genuine imagery and more personal, emotive language will permeate the brand on every level, tying a thread between each strategic element already outlined and emphasizing Ralph Lauren’s return to authenticity. In order for new consumers to be intrigued and retained, this authenticity cannot be surface level: it must run deeper than this introductory campaign and be a continued and directed change in all customer-facing touchpoints.

BUDGET FOR STRATEGY

Overall the reRALPH rebranding of Ralph Lauren will require a budget of $802,846,950 over three years, which is approximately 12% of the overall yearly revenue of the brand. 5,7% of this overall budget is the Marketing Budget which consists of advertising, campaigns, and the introduction of a new face. Additionally, 7,2% of the budget is composed of reRALPH, streamlining the brand structure, and remodeling the stores.

term strategy. The overall investment needed for this initial three year plan will be $196,920,500, which is based on the flagship size, implementing mirror technology, furnishing, remodeling prices and location.

Streamlining the brand and simplifying the composition of all Ralph Lauren sub-brands, will also include closing all outlet stores. American outlets will be closed first which, in a long term strategy, will be followed by the closure of all remaining outlet stores across Europe and Asia. In 2020, Ralph Lauren closed approximately 100 stores, letting go of more than 3000 employees and resulting in a restructuring cost of $236,800,000. Taking into account that there are currently 193 outlet stores in the US, the restructuring cost of this would be higher than previously, leading to an estimated expense of $250,000,000.

The campaign video will require a budget of $21,000, which will include both production and post production. The branded content of this campaign in partnership with Dazed Digital will require a budget of $80,000. Currently Ralph Lauren has 500 - 15,000 paid ads per month and their current advertising expense is $456,300,000. These numbers can be used as a parameter to inform the average advertising costs, which are exclusive to the #howIRalph campaign. Compared with 2021, the budget will be lower, as a significant investment will be made for the new brand face, leading to an expense of $350,000,000. This is based on an average rate of $100 per 10k followers for a total of 6 campaign related posts, and other duties such as cutting ties with other brand collaborations. The contract with the new face would be for three years, requiring a budget of $5,616,000.

In order to simplify and remodel the interior of the stores, the American and European Flagship stores will be adapted to the new interior, which will be followed by further remodeling of all Ralph Lauren stores in the long

In order to launch the reRALPH concept store, $196,500 will be invested in the remodelling of the store space and rent, while an additional $12,950 will be used for the store opening event (further information in Appendix B). 224

STRATEGY EXPANSION PODCAST Ralph Lauren’s Coffee With… will be a bi-monthly podcast based on the idea of a coffee date.

Each episode will be hosted by someone employed within the company who is knowledgeable about the Ralph Lauren brand and can conduct an informative and entertaining interview. There will be a special guest every episode who is part of, or related to, the Ralph Lauren World: Dick Tahsin, the creator of the polo bear; Nacho Figueras, model and face of the brand in the early 2000’s; Jasper Johns, an American artist who has collaborated with Ralph Lauren; Leandra Medine Cohen, the founder of fashion and lifestyle blog Man Repeller; Albert Muzquiz, menswear style expert. This is intended to extend the theme of authenticity and continuous engagement with the new consumer (podcasts are amongst the most popular media form for this demographic). Additionally, it will connect with the reRALPH concept store through occasional live podcasts being held there, invitations to which will be a reward for those with a certain amount of RR Points. Moreover, the concept of a coffee date amplifies awareness of Ralph’s Coffee, reinforcing the link between all streams of the Ralph Lauren brand.

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APP The already existing Polo Ralph Lauren and Ralph Lauren apps will be combined into one that will be available globally (as opposed to America only, as is the current case). This will include a general update to smoothen use and will act as a base for other rebranding elements: it will provide the ability to listen to the podcast, allow shopping directly from the app and will connect to the in-store dressing room feature, allowing the same service through your phone.

This aims to elevate the community surrounding the brand, highlighting the communal element of the Communal Nostalgia that consumers are engaging in. RENOVATIONS AND CLOSURES In line with US-based changes, flagship stores across Europe and Asia will also be renovated in line with the new, more authentic and less busy, aesthetic. This will be supported by the closure of all mall and outlet stores across the world. reRALPH CONCEPT STORE Concept stores like the newly implemented reRALPH in New York will be replicated in other major cities across the US, Europe and Asia.

COLLABORATIONS The present branded content in collaboration with Dazed Digital is likely to be a surprising connection for many Ralph Laure customers. Though this is intended to create buzz around the rebranding strategy, it is important not to alienate the existing consumer. Therefore, future collaborative content, either branded content or an advertorial, will be with American Vogue – a more accessible platform for the existing Ralph Lauren consumer. Moreover, the new face, Emma Chamberlain, has an established connection with Vogue. Therefore, including her in this content will also be a possibility, allowing for greater engagement of her audience towards Ralph Lauren.

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NEW IDENTITY:

AN OUTWARD PERSPECTIVE

POSITIONING SWOT

POSITIONING MAP This rebranding will move Ralph Lauren within their existing competitive market, positioning them more closely to Calvin Klein and Armani, both of which are authentic and aspirational. However, through a realignment with the New American Dream and engaging a more diverse and individual InBetween target consumer, they will also be able to enter a new competitive market. This new competitor arena will position Ralph Lauren alongside brands such as Aritzia, Hugo Boss, Abercrombie & Fitch, and GAP, all of which successfully provide for a Zillennial target who are seeking stability.

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ASPIRATIONAL

RALPH LAUREN

SPURIOUS AUTHENTIC

ATTAINABLE

232

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Authentic visual content across all touchpoints Genuine alignment with New American Dream Iconic and memorable products of high quality and with lasting impact Optimization of existing buzz and consumer desire for resale Strong heritage that is a consistent reference Undeniable brand recognition

Introduction of further new faces in line with newly engaged consumer Enter new competitive market Implement equivalent strategies outside the US Expand social media use to TikTok to engage younger Gen Z audience

W T

Many products outside of the "iconic" category are dated Competitors are already more authentic so may be too late to gain advantage

The American Dream could once again change Potential loss of existing core customer Brand DNA so strong it is hard for existing and prospective consumers to shift their perspective

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THE RESOLUTION

Since its conception, Ralph Lauren has been emblematic of the American Dream – when the dream was well defined and shared by everyone. In doing so, the brand as able to provide stability by remaining constant through times of difficulty. Society today seems more and more riddled with conflicts, wars and pandemics. In recent years, Ralph Lauren has lost its ability to provide stability in such times, as it has fallen away from the American Dream. In this process, its imagery and storytelling turned inauthentic and it became unable to engage a new, younger, and increasingly diverse, audience. The reRALPH rebranding comes together through the refinement of the brand structure, realignment with the New American Dream and revitalization of the story across all elements of the brand. This will return Ralph Lauren to its position as an aspirational brand that allows people to pursue the American Dream as they believe in it, and, once again, provide stability in evermore changing times.

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Ralph Lauren History: Founding, Timeline, and Milestones. (2021, December 14). Zippia.com. Retrieved May 17, 2022, from https://www.zippia.com/ralph-lauren-careers-9602/history/ Reuters. (2022). Ralph Lauren expects margins to grow on resilient luxury demand. Fashion Network UK. Retrieved May 27, 2022, from https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ralph-lauren-expects-margins-to-grow-on-resilient-luxurydemand,1408663.html RL Mag. (n.d.). Check, Mate. Ralph Lauren. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://www.ralphlauren.co.uk/en/rlmag/Ralph-Lauren-tartan-style-icon.html?ab=en_GB_rlmag_rlmag_style_article55 Ryan, C. (2022, May 17). Luxury Brands Are Counting on Americans to Keep Spending. Wall Street Journal. Retrieved May 16, 2022, from https://www.wsj.com/articles/luxury-brands-are-counting-on-americans-to-keep-spending11652777716 Silberstein, N. (2021, March 8). Ralph Lauren Taps into the Sharing Economy with New Subscription Rental Service. Retail TouchPoints. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.retailtouchpoints.com/features/news-briefs/ralph-laurentaps-into-the-sharing-economy-with-new-subscription-rental-service Smith, P. (2021, May 20). • Number of distribution channels of Ralph Lauren worldwide by region, 2021. Statista. Retrieved May 24, 2022, from https://www.statista.com/statistics/268527/number-of-distribution-channels-of-ralphlauren-worldwide-by-region/ Stewart, E. (2021, September 9). After 9/11, American patriotism meant buying things to support the economy. Vox. Retrieved May 15, 2022, from https://www.vox.com/the-goods/22662889/september-11-anniversary-bush-spendeconomy Tashjian, R. (2014, June 17). Ralph Lauren Ads in Vanity Fair. Vanity Fair. Retrieved May 5, 2022, from https://www.vanityfair.com/style/photos/2014/06/iconic-ralph-lauren-ads The Fader. (2016, December 7). The Real And Raucous Story Of The Lo Life Crew. The FADER. Retrieved May 14, 2022, from https://www.thefader.com/2016/12/07/lo-life-crew-interview Toossi, M. (2002). Consumer spending: an engine for US job growth. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Retrieved May 12, 2022, from https://www.bls.gov/opub/mlr/2002/11/art2full.pdf Wassel, B. (2021, November 3). Ralph Lauren Plans 90 New Stores and Additional Localized Websites in 2021. Retail TouchPoints. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.retailtouchpoints.com/topics/omnichannel-alignment/ralphlauren-plans-90-new-stores-and-additional-localized-websites-in-2021

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PHOTO REFERENCES https://highxtar.com/understanding-the-lo-life-movement-love-loyalty/?lang=en

https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/friends-ralph-lauren-collection-scli/index.html https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/wu-tang-clan-style-influence https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/35395547043578542/ https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ralph-lauren-brand-history/ https://eu.oneblockdown.it/blogs/archive/polo-ralph-lauren-cultural-history https://www.flickr.com/photos/geraldinecurtis/339516081/sizes/l/ http://content.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19860901,00.html https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/597360338085565579/ https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/342344009186080129/ https://oldralphlaurenadverts.tumblr.com/post/182666188475/mid-1990s https://www.opentable.it/rl-restaurant https://garywarnett.wordpress.com/2011/09/14/early-mid-1990s-double-rl-ads/ https://twitter.com/goldmansachs/status/1093555086276595713 https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/74731675053254245/ https://silviutolu.com/ralph-lauren-mondays-icons/ https://www.provokr.com/fashion/ralph-lauren/ https://www.gq.com/gallery/ralph-lauren-personal-style-photos? epik=dj0yJnU9ZmNDN2tRNmRaVmYxb0tKbVNiS2pvYXJ2cm1zZVV3clMmcD0wJm49UkdoZGJDakJpUWlldmdQZk1q cEY1dyZ0PUFBQUFBR0otRlBB https://www.vogue.fr/mode/inspirations/diaporama/happy-birthday-ralph-lauren/23114 http://fantasy-old-factory.blogspot.com/2008/08/ralph-lauren-olympic-ceremony-uniforms.html https://artlimagerie.tumblr.com/post/166537937317/happy-valentines-day-from-ralph-lauren https://archive.vanityfair.com/article/2011/1/a-vroom-of-his-own https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/39406565478769285/ https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/galerie/throwback-ralph-lauren-in-vintage-photos https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/united-states-of-protest/ https://emke.uwm.edu/entry/movie-theaters/ https://photos.com/featured/schoolboy-on-sidewalk-george-marks.html https://www.vanityfair.com/style/photos/2014/06/iconic-ralph-lauren-ads http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/watches/article/ralph-lauren-watches-for-men-small-toys-big-boys/ https://models.com/work/polo-ralph-lauren-holiday-2014-campaign/320686 https://www.vogue.fr/mode/article/ralph-lauren-date-collection-printemps-ete-2021 https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/entertainment/celebrating-the-legacy-1302 246

APPENDIX

APPENDIX A APPENDIX B APPENDIX C

APPENDIX

INTEREST ANALYSIS

Using Google Trends, it is possible to analyse interest in a brand in a given region over a dedicated time. The graph below shows worldwide interest in Ralph Lauren since 2004. The search term “Ralph Lauren Corporation” was used to encompass the primary Ralph Lauren line and all of their sub-brands. This is the longest time frame for analysis available and covers both the Maintaining Momentum and Lost In The Noise lifecycles.

An overall trend can be clearly seen: interest subtly increases to a peak in 2014 before a gradual decline begins. Consistent cyclical spikes each year at the end of November (the week of Black Friday) and Christmas are a strong indication that greatest interest with the brand is related to discounts and gifting. The evident dip in March 2021 reflects the COVID-19 pandemic rather than brandspecific issues.

When considering the related topics and queries (“rising” and “top”), they are all Ralph Lauren products or sublines, revealing that most of the interest is related to purchase intention rather than moments, faces, events or competitors. The only topic of note is the huge increase in searches for the Polo Bar in New York since November 2021, but this is logical given its reopening after the pandemic in this month. Google Trends interest by region (chart, right) likely reflects the brand’s inspiration and heritage of both the Americana lifestyle and the equivalent English gentleman aesthetic in Europe.

A zoom-in on The United States specifically in the last 5 years (graph below) shows the same cyclical trend and similar, stable interests as the global overview.

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EARNED MEDIA ANALYSIS

Talkwalker, a brand listening tool, was used to analyse Ralph Lauren's earned media performance. This was done within a specific date range, in this case from April 15th - May 14th 2022. The overview reveals that these 30 days showed a large increase in engagement with Ralph Lauren. The number of unique authors and sites increased hugely (illustrated below).

UNIQUE AUTHORS

UNIQUE SITES

Engagement also increased, reaching a peak of 421.5K on the 2nd of May. Comparing this with the day before (28.9K results) and after (52.5K), shows a drastic increase. Together, this reveals that more users are generating a huge increase in engagement, primarily on twitter (67.3%), online news (17.5%) and blogs (7%). However, while the highest engagement was on Instagram (1.1M interactions), forums had the largest potential reach (1.1T).

MONTHLY ENGAGEMENT

PERFORMANCE OVER TIME

Analysing most used hashtags (below) reveals three delineating topics: the Met Gala, resale and Kpop.

The graph below exemplifies the importance of the Met Gala: "white" peaked at 1.4K results on May 3rd. A similar trend is seen also for the terms “black” and “red” (stable with a large spike on May 3rd), and closer inspection of the conversation shows these are motivated by discussion of the Met Gala at which Ralph Lauren dressed numerous guests including Ryan Reynolds. These peaks are not present when considering the 30 days prior to the Met Gala.

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Closer inspection of the hashtags relating to resale (#Poshmark and #shopmycloset) shows there are a few peaks and troughs throughout the month but generally produce consistently high results. Compared with the previous 30 days, there is a large increase in results for both (489.2% and 481.4% respectively), potentially suggesting that second hand is an increasingly popular way to shop. POSHMARK MONTHLY TREND

The interest in Kpop is evidenced by the numerous hashtags in Korean and #Jungkook, #Jhope who are members of BTS (one of the most popular bands in the world). These peaked on April 19th along with #BTSAirportFashion when they were photographed by paparazzi in an airport and one member was wearing Ralph Lauren. #Krystal and #xiazhan also link Kpop and Ralph Lauren. The first peaked on the 6th of May when rystal, a Korean-American singer, was announced as the

cover for Arena Homme’s June issue in collaboration with Ralph Lauren. The second peaked on May 2nd, 10th and 13th when Sean Xiao, also a singer, was named the face of Ralph Lauren fragrance. This interest stemmed from Weibo (a Chinese social media platform) before being translated to Twitter. In each of these cases, the conversation is driven by fans of the people, and Ralph Lauren, again, is not the focus.

#JHOPE

#BTSAirportFashion

Ralph Lauren as a secondary conversation from Kpop also relates to the top associated brands: they include sportswear brands such as Nike, Puma, Air Jordan and Lacost, mixed with luxury ones including Louis Vuitton and Burberry. Further conversation analysis revealed that the presence of such varied brands is related to popular tweets breaking down Kpop band member’s outfits in the previously mentioned airport images; Ralph Lauren was simply one brand featured amongst many others and, as is the key takeaway from this analysis, not the focus of the conversation.

It is interesting that Tommy Hilfiger is not mentioned as a related brand, potentially indicating that consumers no longer associate them as closely, perhaps due to Ralph Lauren’s recent decline in authenticity, moving them away from this competitive market.

Talkwalker also provides an audience breakdown, but this was not considered relevant to analyse in depth as this is the audience of the platforms influencing the discussion rather than the audience of the brand themselves. Though there are similarities, the audience is very broad and does not provide detailed or valuable insight.

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Sentiment is based on the language used in content that mentions Ralph Lauren. Overall, it is largely neutral, followed by positive and only a slight negative sentiment. The positive sentiment is largely driven by Ralph Lauren’s relevance to the Met Gala and news articles about the event, and gifting guides, both of which, logically, use positive language. 16.9%

Looking closer at the negative sentiment, most of this is driven by bleak news stories, in which a character happens to be wearing Ralph Lauren. This is good for the brand: there is minimal negative sentiment over all and, when there is, little to none is targeted directly towards Ralph Lauren.

80.9%

In terms of influencers, it is not surprising that the most active author and site is Poshmark. This is a collaborative resale platform and, therefore, has a large number of users generating conversation. There were 4.7K posts in this timeframe with a high potential reach of 40.7B.

2.2%

The most influential site is the Daily Mail, followed solely by other news platforms. Again, this is because Ralph Lauren is regularly worn by celebrities, or may again link to the Met Gala occurring in this month. It may be damaging to the brand that the most influential site is not one that is amplifying the positive elements of Ralph Lauren, however on the contrary, the Daily Mail has a potential reach of 1.9B, so this can act to increase brand awareness.

Finally, analysing the results by location shows that the US by far generates the most conversation, comprising 63.8% of the results. It also has the largest potential reach (1.2T) and engagement (1.4M). This is more than double the contribution of the second most influential country. This makes sense given the brand is rooted in American heritage and has always attempted to portray an ideal American lifestyle. The graph below exemplifies this clearly:

However, it is important to note than in this analysis timeframe and the previous 30 days, engagement in America is 256 decreasing (down 6.9% and X% respectively).

SOCIAL MEDIA ANALYSIS

Using Social Blade, an analysis was conducted on the engagement rate of both Ralph Lauren and Emma Chamberlain on Instagram. This made it clear that, though they are not lacking in followers, Ralph Lauren has a very poor engagement rate. In contrast, Emma Chamberlain has a very high engagement rate. This motivates the strategy of using Emma Chamberlain as a face of the brand, intended to encapsulate her audience as Ralph Lauren’s own.

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PAID MEDIA

Using Facebook Ads Manager, a simulation ad was carried out, intending to capture the interest of the new target consumer. Age, interests and location were based on the new target persona to encapsulate those that are shared amongst the whole group. Placement decisions were based on the intention to create ads that appear as authentic as possible and reach the intended target. Therefore, they will not run on Messenger or Audience Network. There was no available data on Meta Ads Library regarding Ralph Lauren’s budget for current ads. Information was also unavailable for the brand’s

immediate competitors. Nike was chosen as a baseline reference as information was available and they are a related brand (as seen in the analysis using Talkwalker and Google Trends). Their spend for the previous 90 days was $26.2K, giving a daily average of $291. Adjusting for their smaller audience and lower engagement, this budget was cut in half to give a daily budget of $150 for Ralph Lauren. The dates of the campaign are in line with the build up to fashion week. Given the ad is to increase awareness of the reRALPH concept store opening, which will occur during New York Fashion Week, it was logical that the ad would run for three weeks leading up to this. This length also informed the lifetime reach (multiplying daily reach by the number of days).

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APPENDIX

FINANCIAL ANALYSIS

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