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Illustration: Israel Castro
EDITOR’S LETTER
Illustrations: Daniel Albericio
Daniel Albericio, Editor-in-chief
MADE NOW CELEBRATES RACIAL, CULTURAL, ETHNIC AND SEXUAL DIVERSITY
It’s our anniversary! Yes, in this special issue, the sixteenth edition stands for our third birthday. Sixteen issues trying to surprise our readers with how we do our thing, and to go forward our limits in each one. Sixteen issues in which we have fallen, and we have learnt thing to get up quickly; in which we have laughed, and also cried. But, with no doubt, sixteen issues in three years that culminate in this Summer edition, a 100% fresh and new. As a first course, a never-seen-before cover in the history of MADE Now, but perfect in order to sum up everything you will find inside our #vol16. Then, the first part of this issue comes imported from the island of La Palma, with the Isla Bonita Love Festival as a starting point: craftsmanship, fashion, economy, society and La Palma as the best gay destination in the last years; a meeting whose purpose lies on social integration and economic development for and advance in the island’s society. And, how do we mix all this elements with the essence of MADE Now and the fashion industry? Interviews and articles in which we let our readers know every single detail and, of course, two spectacular editorials in wich the island’s craftsmanship is perfectly introduced in the creative universe of the magazine. But, what do we have for dessert? Oh, what a dessert! We immerse ourselves in our most varied edition, full of cultures, urban —and not so urban— safaris, ethnics… We present an expedition through the concept of race in fashion since its first times, through the thin line that separates homage and cultural appropriation, through how ethnic diversity in the different continents feeds a tireless industry in which African fashion is again strong on the runway.For sure, one of the issues we have enjoyed the most in which fashion plays with prints and colors with sense of humor in order to celebrate Summer and all the good vibes in gives us. Get with us into our sixteenth volume, and scream that we “LOVE ETHNICS”!
Dress, VALENTINO, Shoes, CÉLINE.
Green suit, VERSACE; printed suit, BARBARA BUI; accesories CÉLINE
Dress and Jewels, ALBERTA FERRETTI; shoes, CÉLINE.
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Coordination and Production Director Agnelymar Reyes Beauty Director Lulú Ventura Make Up Director Romina Elorrieta Marketing Cristina Pérez Public Relations Lupe Castro Communication Mónica Rodríguez Community manager David Delgado Translation David González Redactor Susana Martín Redactor Yolanda Castrodá Redactor Paula Albericio Illustration Israel Castro
Stylist Yeray Nóbrega Stylist Isabel Nóbrega Stylist Raúl Rodríguez Stylist Dan García Stylist Cris León Stylist Katia León Hairdresser Moisés Pérez Make up Patricia Santana Spots Eduardo Giménez Photographer Sara García Photographer Jesús Arvelo Photographer Luis Sosa Graphic Designer Nayra González Graphic Designer Naila Pérez
HAVE COLLABORATED IN THIS ISSUE
Hotel La Hacienda de Abajo / Cabildo de La Palma / La Palma Artesanía / Eider Tejedor / POP HOUSE / Eleyte Clothing Hyp and Chic by Cristina / Dolce Vita / Plastic People / Soi Complementos / María Cuesta Maceira / Adereza tu cabeza
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Co-Director Lola Rufino Creative Director Rubén González Editor-in-chief Daniel Albericio Art Director Carlos Carvajal Redactor Florángel Sánchez
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EDIT MADE NOW Made Now. Tenerife: 38297 La Laguna Canary Islands / Spain MADE Now Magazine is not responsible for the Opinions expressed by contributors in their articles. © MADE NOW Reproduction prohibited, edit or transmitted or in part by any means run out written authorization of MADE NOW
ON COVER PAGE: MAR BORGES (POP HOUSE) with red jumpsuit, Zara and sunhat, La Palma Artesanía SALVADOR ESONO and JOEL HERNÁNDEZ
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Jordi Pérez Camacho, Minister of Economic Development, Trade and Employment Council of La Palma and CEO of SODEPAL; Ascen Rodriguez, insular Minister of Youth and Sports; and Susana Machín, insular Minister of Education, Health & Crafts discover the keys of
a it n Bo Isla
LoveFestival
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First things first, how did the idea of the project Isla Bonita Love Festival emerge? Jordi: From the outset it was clear that it was necessary to create an event by and for the people of La Palma, favoring a more open and tolerant society with different ways of loving in the world. Primarily, this meeting aims to be both an element of economic and social development in the island, relying on the quality of local talent in the fields of fashion and gastronomy, merging it with current trends. In addition, we also wanted to have a leisure agenda that included concerts by leading artists of national and international scene. But surely, this project stands out as a pioneer in La Palma and the Canary Islands, since it will host the first political and social convention that the issue of effective enforcement of the rights of collective LGTBI be addressed, with the aim of promoting a more respectful and tolerant society.
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Your set-up must not have been easy, much less... In addition to the Cabildo, what institutions have taken part in it? Jordi: Bet of the Island Council of La Palma, through the Society for the Promotion and Economic Development of the Island of La Palma (SODEPAL), by promoting social policies and actions of this type is the basis of the Festival, but also include the collaboration of the Canary Islands Government and the Department of Youth, as well as the participation of the municipalities of Santa Cruz de La Palma and Los Llanos, where agendas that make up the Isla Bonita Love Festival will take place. In addition to proper institutional collaboration, we have the support of various groups such as the AlgarabĂa Association, Red Cross, Indispal and also sponsoring companies like Binter airline and travel agency CanariasViaja.com to promote this event in other islands.
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You can see a clear and steely commitment to the youth sector of the island. How do you believe that youth can take advantage? Ascen Rodriguez: Without a doubt, young people in the island have and should be part of this event. We believe it will be a great opportunity to make known their talent in different sectors to be covered during the festival, and not only insular level, but at regional level. In addition, one of the main objectives of this project is, as mentioned, the revitalization of social and economic life of the island, so that young people can not only enjoy the activities taking place within the festival but also they may be part of it in person. This is the case of several students of the School of Art Manolo Blahnik and other groups and NGOs. It is important to foster youth and share initiatives for tolerance, equality and respect for sexual diversity.
Craftsmanship plays a key role for the island’s economy. How can we appreciate this factor in the project?
And not only them, of course. With the presence of more established names, especially in the field of fashion, could festival be considered as an example of where you can get through the correct path? Jordi: Of course, we assume that talent should be recognized whatever its origin. While it is true that it is often difficult to be seen based on an island like La Palma, the fact remains that we have several examples which have shown that we put the limits. Designer Paloma Suarez or Manolo Blahnik himself are just a few examples of people who have achieved success and recognition beyond the island and the Canary Islands. We therefore believe that it is essential to promote these figures for the talent that exists on the island, which is a lot. We believe the Isla Bonita Love Festival can serve as a stage to begin to make them known and continue to grow.
Susana Machin: The Island Council have always made a strong commitment to local crafts, especially through the brand La Palma Artesanía, holding an extraordinary job and unquestionable quality in each of its products. The merger between the traditions of these offices with the latest trends is just one aspect that we intend to push through the Isla Bonita Love Festival. La Palma Artesanía presented his Alma collection recently at the Mencey Fashion Room, held in Tenerife, and installing a pop-up store in Madrid, and we believe it is important not only to bet on this sector but to give the relevance in events like this in the regional and national scene. This is a great opportunity to continue to publicize the work carried out in La Palma in crafts, and promote its commercialization.
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CURIOSITIES OF
THE DEVELOPMENT OF SOCIETY IN LA PALMA
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The ISLA BONITA LOVE FESTIVAL is born as an instrument for introducing new thoghts in the focus of society in the island, such as values in an equalitarian, representative and fair society, together with four days full of expos from different aspects as fashion, business, food, craftsmanship or showrooms. The festival focuses in the need for working in the normalization of social rights for the gay community and building up a more equalitarian society, mainly in new generations. Un mix of elements which make the festival a must in the island at the end of July and that will be, with no doubt, a surprising first edition.
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ISLA BONITA
FASHION
SHOW ROOM They bet for well-done work, talet and excelence, a global window, both for cultura and leissure, where the audience will be able to know products and brands, having the opportunity to dive into a perfect atmosphere. A fabulous space in which fashion and design will be together, brands such as DAPRESA or Lucas Balboa, as well as young designers will delight ys with their creations as we enjoy creativity at its best.
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Innovation and quality, two of the characteristics that best define business in the island, a space where the audience will be able to know not only exclusive pieces, but also theirs characteristics and history.
La Palma has a big variety of high-quality products in a fresh, relaxed atmosphere, together with the most famous native cookers and producers.
FOOD
DESING Also in the branch of fashion, at the Isla Bonita Showroom, we will find talent, professionalism and taste for the enjoyment of the five senses. Innovative ideas, clothing and alternative projects that will amaze us. Moreover, it will mean a platform for young entrepreneurs in the fashion industry.
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Images: La Palma Artesanía
LA PALMA ARTESANÍA The perfect traditional craftsmanship from the beautiful island Created as a brand of artisanal products made in the island, La Palma Artesanía looks for the perfect mix between tradition and modernity.
Avoiding its total extinction is the main purpose of Sodepal in order to give traditional craftsmanship in La Palma the enthusiasm it requires to see young islanders who are interested in it as an alternative or complementary activity. That strong support to craftsmanship in the beautiful island is what has led this project to recover what in the past was a highly important part in the archipelago’s economy and that, nowadays, is still one of the most interesting, varied, rich and best preserved collections in the country. But the real work is not keeping up with this action, but to project it into the future for La Palma Artesanía to be considered as the first cultural legacy in the islands.
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SHOWROOM ISLA BONITA Exclusively for MADE Now, three Young designers from La Palma talk to us about their work, collections and likes. New flesh for a really complicated industry.
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“My older sister, Teresa, put me this name”, she begins. Waleska, the youngest of six siblings who have their hometown in San Andrés y Sauces. Born in 1979 and named under the Polish princess who had an affair with Napoleon, she moved to Tenerife at sixteen to study Fashion Design at the I.E.S. Las Indias. Also dedicated to beauty contests in the island, and after getting back to La Palma, 2010 meant a turning point in her career when a businessman “gave me the opportunity to present and sell two of my seasons in his shop”, according to what she says. Her collection? Named MI PARAÍSO, “it’s inspired in Nature and the beauty of the island; images of La Palma are printed in white and beige fabrics, as in Indianos.” Black, yellow and orange can be seen in asymmetric dresses, midi skirts and culottes made out of organza, stripped lace and even feathers, together with artisanal necklaces and bags, also designed by her.
ÍN
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A clearly sexy spirit, but naturally naïve.
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She shares her name with the supermodel of the moment. Guiyara Cáceres (Gigi Ferrand is her nickname), is an exotic mixture: her Dominican mother and her father from La Palma. Photography student at the Escuela de Arte Fernando Estévez and fashion student at the I.E.S. Las Indias untill 2012, she finishes her studies in styling at the Manolo Blahnik school in his homeland. Influenced by cinema, science fiction, future and the development of society, but mainly, she highlights, “by the values of tolerance and respect.”
D N A R R
GIG IF
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“Fashion is for me a synonym of self-expression and, despite the fact that it’s a heavily superficial world, we must never forget it goes beyond a simple cloth we wear”, and this is what Gigi reflects in a collection that tries to represent self confidence and force, full of sensuality and, why not, sexuality. “The collection is characterized by strong fabrics and sharp lines.” Black is the protagonist in a mixture of pieces made out of gaze and suede that cover the body with wide clothes.
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Also designing under a nickname, the youngest in this group is Rayco Plata, interested in fashion from a very young age. “I feel integrated in this world in which each one of us can have their own vision and opinion, thus allowing a diversity that represents the society we live in.” As he states, everything depends with the eye we look. Taking notes from everything that surrounds him —a plant, a sound— inspiration may come for him in every moment. “The main topic in my collection is integration.” Integration? Yes, in the sense that the client can customize his creations, thus covering different styles. Divided in two parts, “one with really elegant dresses that contrast with another in which they are riskier, with cut-outs and see-throughs”, the line is full of dark colors with serve as the canvas for the customization of the dresses. The rainbow flag is present in 30’s-like belts and stilettos, meaning a parallelism with the gay-friendly factor of the event. Highlighting the female figure may seem as the key of these creations that, being always sensual, “unify the classic and the modern, thus creating a great visual impact for the audience.”
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Red jumpsuit, ZARA; raffia and velvet headpiece, and bag, LA PALMA ARTESANÍA. ON PREVIOUS PAGE: Red culotte jumpsuit with V-neck, ZARA; black leather belt and wood bracelets, stylist’s own.
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On the left, Salvador with embroidered and feathered chest, HYP AND CHIC BY CRISTINA. On the right, Mar Borges poses with the model’s typical Guinean shirt; fringed yellow leather, DOLCE VITA; earrings with black bananas, MARIA YEOWARD x ELEYTE CLOTHING; wood bracelets and sandals, stylist’s own.
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ON PREVIOUS PAGE: From left to right, Salvador with leather pants, ZARA; flower embroidered jacket, MOISÉS PÉREZ; hat with flowers, DOLCE VITA. Joel, with wide leg printed pants, ZARA; leather harness, stylist’s own; and hat, also by DOLVE VITA Green dress with flowers applied on the shoulders, GM BY JE; and leather belt used as necklace, LEVI’S.
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Black ruffled bodysuit, ELEYTE CLOTHING; black embroidered skirt, GM BY JE; golden bracelets, HYP AND CHIC BY CHRISTINA; and embellished bracelet with green feathers, MIRTA MAIZ.
Models: Mar Borges (POP HOUSE), Salvador Esono and Joel Hernández. Make up: Sara García. Hairstyling: Moisés Pérez. Creative direction: Rubén González and Daniel Albericio. Special thanks: Cabildo de La Palma.
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Joel wears a multicolored printed jacket, EIDER TEJEDOR; printed purse, LA PALMA ARTESANÍA; “Wayfarer” sunglasses, RAY-BAN. On the front, Salvador with embroidered and feathered chest, HYP AND CHIC BY CRISTINA; wide leg pants and fringed yellow leather belt, both DOLCE VITA; printed purse, LA PALMA ARTESANÍA; model’s own sunglasses and bracelets.
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Golden necklace and bracelet with fibers, MARIA CUESTA MACEIRA; black leather culottes, ZARA; stripped pants, underneath, styylist’s own. On the right: piece in gold and fibers, MARIA CUESTA MACEIRA.
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Grey cotton dress, scarves used as skirt and fringed mask, stylist’s own; feathered pendant, MIRTA MAIZ; stripped purse and leather bracelets, LA PALMA ARTESANÍA.
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Oversized white shirt and scarf used as turban, stylist’s own; fringed and feathered chest, HYP AND CHIC BY CRISTINA; purse, leather bracelets and sheepskin, all LA PALMA ARTESANÍA.
Models: Salvador Esono and Joel Hernández. Make up: Sara García. Hairstyling: Moisés Pérez. Creative direction: Rubén González and Daniel Albericio. Special thanks: Cabildo de La Palma.
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FASHION
DIARIES I have to say, I do love my job!
I get to travel the world and totally immerse myself in amazing fashion at catwalk and resort shows across the industry’s leading international fashion weeks. Checking out the latest trends –from street style to the shows– for MADE Now doesn’t leave me much spare time; however, in between my travels I do manage to find a little space to work on some of my other projects for this year and coming into 2017. In May I managed to find some time to hit the vintage stores of New York sourcing hot looks for a new boutique shop opening in Tenerife at the end of 2016. New York is made up of lots of eclectic and unique little villages, and while I usually stay on the Upper West Side, this year I had the opportunity to stay in hip Brooklyn Heights –which I loved. Later this year I am going to China for a series of talks about styling. I can’t wait to return and further explore the fascinating facets of Chinese fashion in all its eccentric opulence. Next year I’ll be heading to Dubai to give some similar talks; and at the end of this year, I’m travelling back to Panama for a project in Chiriqui. I like to take advantage of whatever is happening in a city when I visit, and for 2017, there are some incredible events coinciding with my travels! In Belgium, where I will be styling fashion around interiors –preparing for this means trips to Brussels–, I will get the chance to see costume creator, journalist and photographer Filep Motwary’s Haute-à-Porter exhibition at the fabulous Modemuseum Hasselt. The exhibition boasts 100 pieces from fifty different couture houses from the last 30 years, including Christian Dior, Chanel, Prada, Vivienne Westwood, Viktor & Rolf and Christian Louboutin. Visitors can get up close and personal with creations from the biggest names in fashion, and gain an understanding of the influence of haute couture on everyday style. Personally, I can’t wait to soak up the true beauty of the pieces and the intricate craftsmanship that goes into them with pure fashion pleasure. So here is to another year of adventures in the name of fashion, style and art!
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Photography: Tania Cabal
Luz Estefania wears a white over-skirt, typical costume from Panama. Larissa, with her, wears a West Indian costume from the black ethnic
Honey Fatou, AGOWASenegal’s designer. by Shana Schnur, Nueva York.
Devon Kaylor, París. Fashion Command Post
Esther Quek, editor-in-chief at luxury magazine Citizen K Arabia. Por Pam Belorgey, París
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Oritse Williams singer JLS incredible person
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photographies by Nyla Sammons en London Collections men (LCM SS17)
Writers for CatsandJackets dressed in dashing neckerchiefs
David Gandy model and ambassador for London collections men
Oliver Proudlock wearing Sergedenimes and redwings shoes actor & tv presentor best known for made in chelsea programme
STREET STYLE
Vive
“Today I feel as if I have nothing inside me. Peace and silence make me think, and I think I can see in the sky, stars that will not happen again ... “. Julia writes in her diary the sensations and feelings she’s experiencing at that time. “I know life goes on – Julia thinks. I know I’m just a grain of sand in a desert, I know, but it is my pain, my life, my circumstances. “
Marta told Julia that she prevented Susana and Orlando from entering the hospital room. She thought it was not the right time or place to talk. Orlando has not stopped calling Julia daily. She did not want to talk to him, she rejected all his calls. She’s been five days locked up at home (since she left the hospital). She has received friends visits every day, and she has found refuge in reading and writing. She has also tried to rest. Today, Ceuta has dawned a beautiful spring day. At the window and watching the sea and Morocco Julia thinks “I will go out for a walk, I need to get some fresh air. I will go to the square in search for Emilia. After eating I will go to a coffee shop with Margarita. We are meeting to talk quietly. I accepted to work with her. My relationship with Orlando is over and I need more work. At night, as every Friday, and I will have dinner with Marta and Susana. I will propose a journey through the Sahara. I read a book about an ethnic group there, the Tuaregs, which has aroused my curiosity. It would be nice a trip together. “ In the street, Julia walks slowly, she feels a little tired. She breaths deeply, enjoying the colorful streets, the sea ... For the first time in a long time she has a feeling of peace. She is approaching the square, in the distance she can see Emilia sitting on her bench. She gets excited of seeing her. J- Hello Emilia E- Hello dear, how good that you came. How are you? J- Good. Well, fair E Tell me, what happened to your partner ? J- But how are you? E- I’m older, with the infirmities of my age, but hey, I can say that I feel ok. Tell me, you got me intrigued.
Unaware it’s been two hours talking. Emilia sees his grandson walking in the distance. She comments that today her grandson is picking her up. He is the doctor who treated me at the hospital”, she thinks.
E- Hi Jorge. Nice you came. Look, she’s Julia. Jg- I know her. - How are you, Julia? J- Better. Thank you Both tell Emilia how they met. They say goodbye, and Julia promises Emilia to come back. Margarita is sitting at the table ready to eat. She can not stop thinking about the call that Roberto made her this morning. How did he get my phone? – she wonders. Roberto was her first boyfriend and the only one before Orlando. It was a beautiful teenager love which came to an end when her parents decided to send Margarita to London with his aunt Margaret for some time. She was only 15, he was 17. On her return from London Margarita and Roberto saw each other again, but nothing was the same. He got tired of the situation and decided to leave Ceuta and join the army. It’s been over 30 years since last time they met. The conversation they had by phone was warm and short. He told her to meet and she accepted. Why not? Margarita thought. Julia ate a hamburger. She did not want to go home. She does not stop thinking about the things that she spoke with Emilia, she is very curious aboiut it. Did she have a lover? – she wonders “What an interesting woman! -she thinks. With her time flies “. Julia goes to calle Real. She’s meeting Margarita in a coffee shop . She walks crestfallen, thoughtful. Suddenly, a hand rests on her shoulder. She turns around and pales. It is...
Julia began to tell everything that happened to her this week and her relationship with Orlando. Emilia listened to her intently. After a while talking and having told absolutely everything Julia says. Emilia, Am I scaring you with all these things? -Emilia replies- At this point in my life nothing scares me anymore. J- But in your times, women were different. These things did not happen. E- In my times, like in all times, women had feelings, emotions, illusions ... We were wives, mothers, even lovers. J- Lovers? E- Yes, lovers J- Are you telling me you had a lover? Illustration: Israel Castro
Given Julia’s spontaneous and indiscreet question, Emilia blushes and averts her eyes. After a small silence she tells Emilia: Look, the difference between women before and now, is only one. Which one? – Julia asks. To which Emilia replies- women before did not talk about certain things. We had our secrets. Now it’s different, you have more freedom. I wish I had had it! -Emilia still speaking- Today I am not answering this direct question you just asked me, maybe another day. What I want to say is: the best part of your life is still to come. LIVE!
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When we look in the dictionary the adjective ethnic, we note that it is described as belonging or relating to a nation or race. It is therefore logical to think that all those garments, fabrics, prints and accessories typical of a race or ancient nation are referents of ethnic fashion. The origin of this fashion can be traced back to the peak of the original hippie movement of the late 60s. Young people of this epoch called for the fight against previously established archetypes, ideologies and life styles. Hippie fashion created its own path away from Western values and appealed to the history of the ancient civilizations of Africa, East and Central America. Within the typical way of dressing in this epoch flowing lines and ethnic garments that allowed a wide freedom of movement were very common. Examples are Indian saris, Mexican ponchos, blouses and dresses made of translucent fabrics, etc. In addition, the special connection with nature that had this urban tribe gave special value to handmade garments, ie, made by hand with natural materials. The inclusion of ethnic fashion in fashion shows is due to the acclaimed designer Yves Saint Laurent, who against the many criticisms received, he was among the first designers to integrate references from non-European cultures in their creations. Furthermore, as anecdotal aspect, Yves Saint Laurent pioneered the introduction of black models in his shows. Although it has been more than three decades after this event, currently we can still find, in multiple collections, a wide variety of garments of ethnic style. In addition to the distinctive designs of different ethnic groups are the most contemporary versions of these, representing an evolution of classical friezes in abstract graphics writing, sublime geometries and archetypal forms. Current designs mix grunge codes (young people’s subculture from the 90s) with bohemian and
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All products may be found at El Corte InglĂŠs
eclectic elements in ethnic mosaics, ornamented with an explosion of colors from natural dyes such as red, volcanic soil, twilight colors, etc... Youth’s fashion, influenced by urban tribes, adds to its outfits decorations on the skin through body art. The presence of multiple geometric shapes seen not only in permanent tattoos but using ancient techniques of ancient peoples of
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Polynesia (whose tattoes were part of a symbolic language). Furthermore, the love of young people for ethnic nature is stained by a dramatic black. The ancient scriptures and geometries are decorated with the fascination for skulls and other symbols of esoteric and archaic nature.
Finally, I could not finish without giving brief hints on the representation of ethnic fashion in the next Fall-Winter 16/17 season. Fashion will be submerged in a primitive and savage world with a clear influence of the ancient Nordic peoples. We will see cold dusty colors, frozen green, nude beige tones and natural fabrics like leather and sheepskin, creating thick camouflaging silhouettes and body morphologies with a voluminous warmth. As we can see, once again, fashion is reinvented from the inspiration in different urban tribes and ethnic ancient civilizations. Therefore, it not is difficult to imagine that the coming fashion shows will be flooded with new prints, and colorful accessories of tribal nature. •B.R.
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ETH(N)IC FASHION Controversy is profitable and fashion industry has learned the lesson well. Although not new, in recent years we have witnessed several lawsuits relating to strong brands with cultural appropriation of symbols from ethnic minorities. Isabel Marant, Ralph Laurent, Urban Outfitters, Victoria’s Secret ... all of them have had to deal with accusations of plagiarism and / or appropriation of cultural symbols.
the veil of quiet exoticism and we do not delve into the culture that we desecrate. We just take what we want and “soften” it in order to make it nice in our ancestrial tradition.
Exoticism has been (and is) a recurring theme for fashions - in plural because I do not just mean clothing-. European nobility and gentry in the nineteenth century fell rendered for the sensual charm of Chinese silks and the sumptuousness of the distant Russia. Hippies brought from India saris and beads, and under the prefabricated term of “folk”, they created an aesthetic replete with ethnic elements: fringes, feathers, patterned fabrics with batik, bad Buddhist, Thai pants, Mexican guarachos .... The millennials and their festivals offended the Hindu community with their aesthetic use of bindi ... Western countries like to travel, but often, they lacks perspective. We adopt and adapt a particular aesthetic under
This season, Spring Summer 2016, comes with an important touch of ethnic cultures, Valentino being, but not the only, its most refined exponent. The ethnic label has that “je ne sais quoi” that sells, but in my opinion, often stays on that: label, sales strategy.
Mexican craftswomen from different regions of the country produce cotton yarn fabrics, wool and silk in traditional pedal and waist looms. They also market products made from other craft disciplines that are at risk of becoming disappearing products. Huipil’s handicrafts products exude authenticity ethics, quality and exclusivity. Tissues leaving Huipil looms are used to make pillows, purses, handbags, household items. Approaching this project means falling in love with it and imagining your sofa lost among the silk cushions of “Frida”, “Remedies” or “Margarita”.
that are situated within a fully sustainable business framework in which attention is paid to every single detail. I would emphasize that the wool is collected by hand in small quantities and from animals that are two years old and without damage or detriment to the animal.
Norlha Textiles employs the ancient techniques of spinning and weaving Khullu (name given to the fur of Tibetan Yak)
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However, I would like to take these pages not only to criticize the poor conception of exoticism in Western countries, but also to write about truly ethnic and ethical projects. Hupil’s ethical crafts is a project born with a very definite social vocation: “sustainably boost the development of Mexico’s indigenous peoples to preserve their identity and culture.” - as they introduce themselves.
The Khullu had revealed its charms to ancient Chinese emperors and Tibetan nomads centuries ago; Now, Norlha Textiles brings it back showing its benefits: softness, strength and a great way to keep us warm without adding weight. Some of the most demanding international firms dedicated to luxury have fell for it. I have had the great good fortune to test Norlha textiles, thanks to Teresa Garcia (Trainer and Fashion Consultant) and I do not think I am wrong by ensuring that this exotic name will give people something to talk about. - If you want to know more about Norlha Textiles, you can consult the article Teresa Garcia “yak wool, passion and treasure of a community published in www.slowfashionnext.com •S.M
Imagen: Freepick
Asia is the cradle of Norlha Textiles, a fascinating project dedicated to the development and marketing of Yak wool textiles. Production is located in a remote area of the planet, in the village of Zorge Ritoma’s region of Gansu, China, at 3200 m. altitude. The hands that make this possible are from 150 Tibetan nomads and those who launched it are two American women, Kim Yeshi and Dechen Yeshi, mother and daughter.
Since fashion industry took over the counterculture of the 60, “folk” features have never been away from catwalks; some seasons more strongly than others, but always present.
Illustration: Israel Castro
Interview to
Resta
Alejandro
A talk with the Valencian designer about his ideal woman , perfection in their collections and fashion today.
Ilustraciรณn: Juliasnegireva / Freepik
Alejandro Resta was born on June 20th, 1985 in Valencia. Since he was young his imagination and pensiveness foreshadow a dedication to the world of arts. His talent for drawing and passion for fashion make him opt for the art of sewing. From this moment, he began studying design, pattern and dressmaking in different schools of Alicante, Valencia and Barcelona How do you define your signature? Elegance represents mystery, the exquisite and refined, which Alejandro Resta integrates to the independent and fighting spirit for his ideal woman and man. A person who passionates and seduces. His classic unstructured pattern, coupled with maximum attention to details, gives his designs a unique, contemporary character.
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How is a day in your studio? I would not know where to start from. This question is quite difficult my little “dream factory”, which is how I like to refer to my workshop, opens at 10 am. I usually have a meeting early in the morning with the various teams in order to configure the daily planning... .We try to do the work as scheduled, but for some strange reason everything goes differently. By being creative I fell with things hehe. In the mornings we usually dedicate to the creative process and in the afternoons I am always attending appointments, trying custom dresses. If it is time to prepare a show, there is always a friend model at home. We do tests that end up becoming big events. Late in the evening, if the day is quiet, I have a relaxing stroll along the river with my dog “Titus”. This is a short summary but thousands of things usually pop out every day. How is a woman who wears an Alejandro Resta’s dress? A woman who sees the essence of sensibility, who feels, implicates, who is strong and fierce. My ideal woman does not need to show or insinuate ... She can be seen arriving, with sensual and sophisticated moves in a gentle but forceful manner. I always thought that I had a prototype of clients, but then I realized that women who wear my trademark are real queens. A wide color range in your different collections Which one is always present in your creations? I love yellow, the truth is that I have used it in many collections and still do. The other day I was told that yellow is the new “black” and I really think that no woman today has a yellow garment in her closet. We should not discriminate men. Thus, in my new collection of shirts, yellow is very common. What’s your ideal design? My ideal design ranges from a siren yellow dress with open back for a night with a heart-stopping dinner in which everyone turns around as you enter the place, to a “midi” skirt with a masculine-cut shirt with the sleeves rolled up and the neck unfolded. To enjoy an intense morning of work jejejeje. I think fashion should be lived. currently fashion is in fashion, in your opinion are we starting to ge tired of it? Fashion is fashion, it never dies. Everything is reinventing itself and hence it leads to extreme trends. Everything becomes “trendy”. The other day I sat on a terrace with friends and I stopped for one second. I just dedicated myself to observe, I couldn’t tell you how many styles and trends wore people passing in front of me. But I didn’t get shocked but I thought that something has changed and people enjoy and live fashion
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Races
& Fashion
The reality of ethnic diversity in the industry
W
e’ve been hearing and reading that “fashion is democratizing” that “increasingly becomes more transgressive” and that “the canons are changing.” Really? They might be arguments based to note that they are selling us smoke, but in this number of MADE Now, inspired by the ethnic world, we call attention to racial diversity and sometimes its absence, in a sector that sometimes plays too conservative, also addressing the constraints that designers and models have been finding over the years.
Naomi Sims on the cover page of LIFE magazine.
Donyale Luna, Vogue Beverly Johnson, Vogue cover too. cover.
Images: Tumbrl / Incolurs / Black&Beautiful / Livingly / Asian Models / Pinterest / Luxeo / Freepik
Perhaps today, when in a fashion show or in an ad campaign we see that the hegemony of Caucasian features is broken with more exotic and darker skins, we think that finally the diversity of races is present. But there were times when some people dared to claim and, why not to try, to normalize the presence of models of various ethnicities in a time when doing so was almost like a political act. In 1962 Yves Saint Laurent, always predecessor, was the first designer who counted on the catwalk with women of ebony skin. In Fidelia, first black person who modeled for him, he found the qualities he loved in a model: slender women with a strong presence. After her, the Somali Iman, from which the genius said “My dream woman is Iman ... She is perfection. Her face. Her body”. She was the main model for haute couture collection inspired by African queens. Other of his muses were South Sudanese Alek Wek, or Guinean Katoucha Niane and Rebecca Ayoko. But the love of the teacher for black women - no taboo or euphemisms of any kind – were shown not only in his shows: in 1989, when those responsible for Vogue Paris refused to get Naomi Campbell or any other black model on the cover, Yves Saint Laurent threatened to withdraw all advertising from the magazine. Finally, Campbell became the first model of African origin in hogging the cover of the French edition, in August of that year. When in July 1964 the designer Paco Rabanne of Spanish origin chose black models to show their futuristic dresses, he infuriated the American fashion press. According to Rabanne, things got out of hand after the show, girls from American Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar reproached his choice: “Why did you do that? You have no right to take that kind of girl. Fashion is for us, the white. “Due to his choice, the designer was part of fashion blacklist until, in the 70s, African American models were considered chic. Is not it a bit - or maybe too- hypocrite?
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The creator Yves Saint Laurent next to Naomi Campbell.
Imaan Hammam in Sophie Teallet.
Lineisy Montero in Atelier Versace.
Soo-Joo Park in Zac Posen.
The model Joan Smalls.
Du Juan in two editorials of the chinese edition of Vogue.
This did not happen only in shows of main firms and prestigious designers. It was not until August 1974 that the American edition of Vogue put a color model on the cover, Beverly Johnson, appointed by The New York Times as one of the most influential people in the fashion world in the 20th century. She was known for being the first black model to appear on the cover of the magazine, as the title of her recently published autobiography. She was the face that changed everything and opened the door for most American designers to include color models in their shows. Naomi Sims was the first black American model. She also managed to be the first African American to appear on the cover of Fashion of The Times in 1967, fashion supplement from the famous newspaper New York Times. But her greatest success was the cover in the supplement of Life magazine two years later. The title of the edition read as “Black models assume the center”, which made her famous worldwide. Believe it or not, there were many more before Miss Campbell, such as Donyale Moon, which also marked the history of fashion. In March 1966 she appeared on the cover of the British edition of Vogue, the first black model to star in the cover of that magazine. With Richard Avedon as her photographer and being one of the muses of Rabanne and Courrèges, Moon broke the stereotype of the models as one of the standard bearers of the most heterodox beauty. Models of Asian origin have not had it much easier and even though now, names and faces like Liu Wen, Ming Xi or Soo-Joo Park are among the most quoted and copen beauty campaigns, it was not until 2005 that an oriental woman appeared on the cover of Vogue Paris (curious how French are so open-minded for some things and so closed-minded for others). The chosen model was Chinese Du Juan, but she wouldn’t be on her own but together with Australian Gemma Ward and through the lens of Mario Testino. After that, it came her debut on catwalks in 2006, modeling for Chanel and Cavalli among others, and opening and closing Valentino’s show, campaigns with Louis Vuitton, Yves
Soo-Joo Park.
Sain Laurent and Swarovski, and furthermore, appearing in the most prestigious fashion editorials worldwide, which served her as to be considered the first Chinese supermodel. The truth is that even though today, models like Joan Smalls, Lineisy Montero, Weng Jing, Imaan Hammam, Jourdan Dunn or Soo-Joo Park - for mentioning just a few examples- stomp and are increasingly present, we are still far from a real diversity of races. And although there was a time when it seemed that the industry was opened to their inclusion, few designers are favoring models of different ethnicities for their shows. Zac Posen or Sophie Theallet. They may be one of those rare examples. In an interview with the German edition of Glamour, Naomi Campbell said: “You know, maybe the US President is black, but as a black woman, I am still an exception in this business. I always have to work harder to be treated equally [...]. In the past, there were more opportunities for black models but the trend towards blonde women has again become extreme. In magazines, on catwalks, you can see blonde, blue-eyed, models all over.” And while some look away and others just put their hands on their heads when they see a Black, Chinese or Egyptian model on the catwalk, in a cover or in a beauty spot, others finally crave for shows filled with actual color, for fashion editorials impregnated with exoticism and with diversity not being the exception. Will that moment come soon and will become finally true the democratization of fashion? •P.A.
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Illustration: Israel Castro
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Brief but intense. This has been our little chat with the designer. Learn the essence of Rafael Urquízar in seven steps. Design for you is ... It’s my way of life, I am lucky enough to devote myself to what I always wanted to do. A material, a color, a shape? Natural silk in all finishes. I think red represents strength and it favors everyone. The shape depends on the person and you have to adjust to it. I do not like fashion designers who do not embellish women for being trendy. Why female design? I love to make women beautiful and make them feel comfortable and powerful. But I do not mind working in other fields within design.
What would you like to do in a collection that you have not done yet? I think that in thirty years I have done almost everything, but there are more things that I would rather not do ... What’s your favorite garment? Dresses. What is the soul of Rafael Urquizar? Elegance with a modern touch, simplicity without boredom, perfect sewing and cutting.
Int
erv
Ra Ur fa qu el íza r iew
to
Finally, anything you want to add? Just to thank all the women who have placed their trust in me for all these years.
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The know-how of the Gran Canarian master.
Three decades devoted to textiles attest it. The designer Pedro Palmas can brag, after a twelve year break, about being, about continuing to be one of the top designers in our fashion.
When the very Agatha Ruiz de la Prada claims behind the scenes that it is “the best swimwear collection I’ve seen in a long time,” something suggests that “Lights”, Palmas’ proposal in the framework of the Swimwear Fashion Week of Gran Canaria, it is a resounding success. As he says, two non-colors, white and black, accompanied by the glitter of gold, made the public stared at the stunning designs exhibited there, together with the exclusive pieces of Flori Gomez Jewelry and surrounded by the music of LAX. Certainly, a show which distanced itself from the rest. But what came before this new beginning which is swimwear fashion in the Canarian creator’s career? In the middle 80s, during the Movida Madrileña, a group of friends decided to offer the public of the islands that eclectic, different fashion, that could be seen in mainland Spain. Autodidact in his beginnings, the interest of Pedro Palmas by the seam would take him to Barcelona, in order to do some training in fashion design that later and after his studies, it would bring him back to his native Gran Canaria, opening his own studio in 1989. After presenting his first collection, the ambition of several creators (including our hero) lead them to found a presently recognized collective called Moda Calida. Joining forces with designers from neighboring Tenerife, Canary fashion then lived its heyday a few years which Palmas stands out as “the best” for the textile sector in the islands. The designer, accompanied by LAX group, in his triumphal entrance, after finishing his fashion parade in the past edition of Moda Calida
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However, after a series of setbacks -discrepancias between groups of both islands-and the economic difficulties of that time, forced Palmas’ studio to close down in 2004. Although this was not the end of the fashion designer, who continued linked to the sector by means of styling and fashion direction for various media. With the idea of returning to design haunting the thoughts of the creator for twelve long years, 2016 marks a new turning point, and Pedro Palmas returns triumphant to the catwalk with an exquisitely collection both sensual and feminine that delighted the audiance in various occasions in the island of Gran Canaria, culminating with overwhelming applauses in the catwalk Costura España. And it is here when we come back to the beginning. New projects, to break the mold: a well-known designer, so far, for his good taste in prêt-à-porter confronts any preconceived design ideas about his identity by jumping into the swimwear design pool.
Different proposals by Pedro Palmas in Moda Calida. made in white, black and gold for the next season
Imágenes: cortesía de Gran Canaria Moda Cálida.
No doubt Pedro Palmas is a tireless needle, so we will be watching his forthcoming proposals which, unquestionably, will give people something to talk and to further revolutionize fashion in the Canarian archipelago.
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Photography RUBÉN GONZÁLEZ Make-up ROMINA ELORRIETA Text LULÚ VENTURA
Sauvage Shamelessly animal and savage, unequivocally radical, crude and 100% masculine.
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A EZ LL
g n i m o o r g e v
I lo
They also have the right!
L
BE
ooking good today is not only a matter of women, using a good moisturizer or eye contour concealer is no longer exclusive to women. It’s been a long time since grooming was born to improve the male aspect through makeup. It is not just a tool for television or public events or exclusive to photography models; why cannot they be handsome using these tools? And about this, we get some answers and a wide range of products and brands of cosmetics and make-up from professionals, some of them oriented to men who want to take care of themselves and be as they want to be.
But, what objective do we want to achieve? While women seek to highlight her beauty or give free rein to her imagination with a wide range of colors, finishes and styles, the objectives of guys are oriented to “look good” but discreetly, enhance their strengths, conceal any imperfections and unify slightly the tone of their skin. In short, what they seek is something flattering, an attractive face without crossing the line of an exaggerated makeup. We are not talking about a characterization makeup. We pursue a totally natural look with a good combination of steps and suitable products applied in the right amount and manner. How can one achieve the desired effect? What are the best products and tips? In my last Mac Techniques course, I was chatting with José Ojeda, pro-trainer at Mac Cosmetics, about the increase during the last decade of the makeup market for men and the trends for the summer. He offered me very useful tips, not only for women but also practical advice for men, so I have compiled the most important things in order to share them with you. It contains a step by step list of right products and tips to achieve a very flattering finish in a practical way. “For the Summer season, it has to be subtle. For this, we must achieve a well hydrated skin as a moisturizer with color like the line by Lightful C Tint by MAC, containing Radiance Booster, a vitaminic complex that acts as boosting energy for the skin and leaves it perfect, fresh and with a good tone for this season”,
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he told us. “Summer nights are long so to disguise tireness, nothing better than a contour of eyes that contains caffeine, like the Fast Response Eye Cream. Then, to hide the fatigue one can apply the best-selling men’s signature compact powder, Matte Bronze, applied with a very soft brush so it looks like a veil over the skin, hardly noticeable.”
Images: Freepik / Mac
Trends for the eyes in this season go for both a mystical and a profound look. “If you want to go further and as an option to achieve this finish subtly, I recommend the Coffe Eye Pencil, a perfect coffee color to get that effect naturally. To finish add a touch on the eye lashes to give a wet effect with a transparent brow set and do not forget to moisturize the lips with the Lip Conditioner, containing almond extract that conditions and softens our lips in order not to get them too dry.” Looking good and comfortable with yourself. Anyone wishing to look good can take, out of many, the choice of makeup and correct certain imperfections and improve his look. To investigate and try different products is no longer exclusive to women; men also have the right to look good using makeup without this meaning a loss of masculinity on their faces. Remember that you can find me in social networks: icegirlventura.blogspot.com
@icegirlventura
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SHAMAN In order to get the depth of an obscure and matt look, we have used the Crave shadow from the Urban Decay’s Naked Basics palette, spreading with a soft brush through the eyelid, and blurring to the temple. With the fingers, we have applied the white dull Supracolor pigment by Kryolan, drawing geometric tribal shapes in the face. To highlight the color, we have mixed the matt New Fixation pigment by MAC Cosmetics, with the Duraline one by INGLOT, thus obtaining a liquid texture that can be used easily with the fingers or a brush on the face. Gold “Oni” necklace by HISSIA.
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FROM THE EARTH Ebony and gold “Origami” necklace by HISSIA.
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WARRIOR SOUL Let’s draw freely on the skin with the white creamy Supracolor pigment by Kryolan and the orange lipstick Rouge Volupté nº18 by YSL Beauté. We will used the lipstick as an accent to the color we will apply on the face with the fingers. Ebony and gold “Bant” necklace by HISSIA.
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Modelo: Özel Soto. Peluquería: Moisés Pérez. Dirección creativa: Rubén González y Daniel Albericio.
RAISING We will mix with free will the pigments in the eye shadow Vice palette by Urban Decay on the face with our fingers. The contrast in white is done with the dull creamy Supracolor pigment by Kryolan, using a plane brush. Gold “Escudos” necklace by HISSIA.
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photography JESÚS ARVELO styling KATIA LEÓN and ISABEL NÓBREGA
Arts & crafts Jersey with details applied to the neckline, printed silk skirt, earrings and rings, all SOI COMPLEMENTOS.
The Amazon Color, prints and eye to details. Modern warriors enjoy what they wear and do not fear mixing.
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Coralline Printed cullote pants, pointelle croptop, necklaces, rings and bracelet, all SOI COMPLEMENTOS.
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In the meadow Printed silk coordinates, turban, chain necklace and ring, all SOI COMPLEMENTOS.
African queen Shawl used as top, printed skirt with fringes, leather sandals, earrings and ring, all SOI COMPLEMENTOS.
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Model: Nathaly Navas (POPHOUSE). MUA and hairstyling: Sara García. Creative direction: Rubén González.
THE ETHNIC REBEL Photography R.W. | Styling RAÚL RODRÍGUEZ
Incledible mixes in a cocktail of prints that create the modern nomad: free, youthful and really, really fresh.
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Headdress, ADEREZA TU CABEZA; shirts, long sleeved, ZARA; short sleeved, ELEYTE CLOTHING; hanky and sneakers, ZARA; tie, MOSCHINO; pendant, HORUS LEGACY
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T-shirt, XAVI REYES; vintage shirt and bracelets, from the stylist; fur coat used as a skirt, STRADIVARIUS; watch, ELIXA; leather sandals, ZARA.
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Shorts printed with cigarette ends, ELEYTE CLOTHING.
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Printed scarf, BENETTON; yellow slip-dress and vintage earrings, from the stylist; leather sandals, ZARA.
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Printed shirt, XAVI REYES; collar, from the stylist; shorts, ELEYTE CLOTHING; ring, H&M; pendant, HORUS LEGACY.
Model: JOEL HERNÁNDEZ
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MIRRORED Printed T-shirt, LEYRE VALIENTE; bermuda shorts, PULL & BEAR; shoes, ÁNGEL INFANTES; belt, BENCH; aviator sunglasses, RAY-BAN.
Landscapes phography JULIO SANCHO @jsanchophotography
styling ELE GARCÍA @elegarciastyle
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BRAVE
Illustration: Freepik
Printed T-shirt, LEYRE VALIENTE; bermuda shorts, BENCH.
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JUNGLE BOY Printed T-shirt, TIWEL; bermuda shorts, PULL&BEAR.
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BLUE OCEAN
Model: Álvaro Gayoso (MODELS DIVISION). MUA and hairstyling: Paola Darnelly. Creative direction: Manuela Suárez.
Sweater, LEYRE VALIENTE; denim bermuda shorts, BENCH; sneakers, PULL&BEAR.
LEMONADE Printed T-shirt, PINTÓN; yellow bermuda shorts, BENCH; “Marshal” glasses, OAKLEY.
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