DISASSEMBLED DENIM MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 1 | FASM 419
HISTORY OF CHAPS Chaps were oringially called armas, and were first seen in Spain and Mexico as a leather garment that was worn over the legs for protection when herding cattle. Later generations of Cowboys in meixco travelled to the northwest pacific where the garment transformed with leggings that were inspired by the Native Americans. The word chaps is derived from the Mexican Spanish word Chaparro which stood for a garment that would protect clothing when riding. Traditionally chaps worn by cowboys were always made out of leather.
LOOKING INTO THE TREND Deconstruction in denim is a trend that has been around for sometime. This idea of disassembling the classic silhouettes is the newest take on deconstruction. There is a theme of this dismantleing garments to push them to be more exposed, structural, and geometric. It gives a skeletal look to the garment. While some top designers such as the Y Project, Hood By Air, and Christopher Shannon have been exploring this concept through their collections, artist Rihanna has infleunced this look greatly. In the past VMA awards show she was seen wearing bubblegum pink chaps with stirrups designd by HBA. She continues to rock many other denim pants containing the chaps element frequently in her street wear.
SEEN ON THE RUNWAY
WORKS CITED: http://ikoikospace.tumblr.com/post/104877758401/somerowena-sartin-looks-by-sissy-sainte-marie http://lifestylehunters.com/ss16-trend-report-freaky-denim/ https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/ A_W_18_19/26294 https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/christopher-shannon https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-towear/central-saint-martins/slideshow/collection http://www.instyle.com/look-of-the-day/2017-10-03 https://ncadmin.nc.gov/CIA/documents/factsheets/ncindiansfactsheet.pdf
DENIM KNITS MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 2 | FASM 419
TEXTILE INNOVATION
Now that there is such a push from the consumer for loungewear in everywear catagory, Denim is finally started to catch up with this trend. Denim knits are seen most successful as blends with wool, cotton, and even spandex. Increasing these soft and elastic fibers that are already seen in Denim allows the fabric to have a completely different feel to the touch while keeping its color and recognizable look. Dip dyeing indigo on wool fibers is an extensive and expensive process, but utlizing recycled denim to create the desired color is the most feasible and sustainable. “With the advent of cold-dye reactive dyeing systems for cotton and now wool it is feasible to create denim-like wool yarns which, when knitted into denim jersey constructions, can create knitted denim looks in pure wool or wool/cotton blends.� - The Woolmark Company
LOOKING INTO THE TREND This new blended textile is seen taken to different extremes from soft to rugged. Artists Faustine Steinmetz took a lot of inspiration from Urban erosion. This look is best excecuted through applying needle-punching and laser burn-outs to webbed fibers. This process brings a new beauty seen in details of overworn and distressed denim. These garments are much more delicate and fragile than denim textiles have ever been seen before. The other popular blended textile that is seen in this trend is a tweed like material. Tightly weaving wool and cotton with denim proporties creates a much heavier and thicker material. While the weight could be less desirable, this blend still maintains a softened quality. The last likely blend in this trend is softening denim so its fullest by heavily incorporating cotton and rayon. Some of these materails do not even contain any pre-existing denim and just create indigo dyed fabrics that mimic denim qualities.
Viktor & Raufe FW 2016
Missoni SS 2016
Marques Almeida SS 2014
Pringle of Scotland SS 2017
WORKS CITED: https://www.woolmark.com/inspiration/textile-innovations/ wool-denim-knitwear/ https://www.gq.com/story/how-gq-are-you-denim-andtweed https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/ A_W_18_19/26439 http://www.laurentausend.com/?crlt.pid=camp.4eecWqXXYnKc http://cargocollective.com/pitchzineblog
EXAGGERATED FORM MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 3 | FASM 419
THE HISTORY OF OVERSIZED The start of oversized clothing drastically shifted post war in the 1920’s from corseted silhouttes to flowy and shapless garments.Later in the 50’s Christian Dior presented the “Corelle Line”, which became the boxy irconic look of the decade. The look was pushed even further during the “anything goes” era of the 70’s. More radical feminist groups were often seen in their anti-fashion waredrobes rocking the produced oversized garments traditionally made for me. Now in the 2000’s some of the more iconic designers known for their exaggerated silhouettes consist of: Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, and Alexander Mcqueen.
LOOKING INTO THE TREND This trend of enlarged bodied garments is seen to most recently inspired through Japanese streetwear. Designers are creating almost comical silhouttes by taking the natural structure of the denim material and incorporating this into exaggerated patterns. These types of looks are including elongated sleeves, overly sturctured shoulder padding, and distorted takes on fastening. This trend is quirky, clever, and very playful. Many celebrity figures are becoming recognized for introducing this look into their streetwear such as Rihanna, Beyonce, and Teyana Taylor.
Copenhagen
SEEN ON THE RUNWAY
Matther Adams Dolan
FW 2015
Ashish FW 2016
Ader Error FW 2017
Chloé FW 2016
WORKS CITED: https://www.ssense.com/en-us/women/designers/ashish https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/ A_W_18_19/26439 http://www.livingly.com/Fashion+Trend+Report/articles/ bLLJ-PI-bQi/Fashion+Trend+Report+Boxy+Silhouettes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Women%27s_oversized_fashion_in_the_United_States_since_the_1920s http://www.refinery29.com/oversized-clothing-japan-streetstyle-trend https://www.pinterest.com/pin/344947652702319141/
INTRODUCING TEXT MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 4 | FASM 419
INTRODUCING THE TREND This trend really began from the infleuence of street signs and text logos seen first in South Korean streetwear. Street brands such as Supreme, Off White, and Y3. According to WGSN, some of this typhography has been inspired in many ways including: stock exchange tickers, computer coding, and reusing older slogans from the 90’s. This text is often seen either silk screened onto the denim, embroidered throughout it, or even looses hand written in marker. While this look was really first seen through streetwear, it has expanded to more mainstream designers as well as influenced within visual merchandising of stores.
LOOKING INTO THE TREND One main reason this trend is starting to take off, is because the text written is often irocic, symbolic, and simply humorours. An example of this type of ironic humor in text is the embroidered labeling of the anatomy terms for part of the body seen on a garments (see below). The text gives a platform for humor or commentary from the brand that uses it. Incorporating this text also gives a design element to denim.
S E E N O N T H E RU N W AY
Faustine Steinmetz RTW SS 18
Julien David SS 17
Victor Alfaro RTW FW 17
WORKS CITED: https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/ A_W_18_19/26439 https://www.vogue.com http://www.instyle.com www.offwhite.com www.yproject.com
EMBRIODERED DENIM MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 5 | FASM 419
HISTORY OF EMBROIDERY Embroidery is traditionally done through a needle and thread, althrough is can also include added embleshishments such as: pearls, beads, and sequins. Some works of the earliest embroidery found date back to China during the Warring States period in the 5th century B.C.. Embroidery is first seen in accents on garments from the Swedish during the Migration Period. The art was then transended to Ancient Greece and took off primarily in England during the Medival Period. During the 18th Century Embroidery was looked at a skill girls needed to master in order to enter womanhood and acheive social standing. It was the embroidery on garments that signifide wealth and social status for men and women. The more complex and decritive the techique, the more luxurious and valuable the garment became. The introduction of machine driven embroidery developed for mass production during the Industrial Revolution. The machined loomed required human assitance to preform the embroidering. While mass produced embroidery is still in great supply in today’s time, there is a new demand for hand crafted embroidery that give an organic imperfection spin on the clothing.
LOOKING INTO THE TREND The embroidery seen in this trend is often a floral design of warm toned colors. There is something endearing about the hand crafted emrboidery that is so intricately designed, mixed with the everyday material: denim. It creates a new platform for people to personalize an everyday garment to make it more elengant and interesting. While embroidering denim is not a revolitionary concept as far as fashion goes, it is certainly a very prevelent trend seen in designers inspriation. Denim is a thickly material, which perfectly allows the heavily embroideried pieces to lay flat as the fabric drapes. The more structured fabric that this creates, is particularly popular to support geometic silhouttes.
Christian Dior Resort 2018
Alexander Mcqueen RTW Fall 2016
S E E N O N T H E RU N W AY
Alice & Olivia Resort 2018
Antonio Marras RTW Fall 2016
Oscar de la Renta Resort 2018
WORKS CITED: https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/ A_W_18_19/26439 http://bcr8tive.com/alexander-mcqueen-2016/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/alice-olivia/slideshow/collection https://www.vogue.com http://www.instyle.com https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery
MOVING THE ZIPPER MADELINE MULVIHILL | TREND 5 | FASM 419
LOOKING INTO THE TREND The zipper was created by Gideon Sundback in 1913. At this time he called this the “Serparable Fastener”, and he got the patent by 1917. In the 1930’s their was a major campaign for zippers in childrens clothing to promote younger people being self reliant. By 1937, the zipper was considered to be more mainstreamed than the button when many fashion designers of the time really pushed incorporating the zipper in menswear. The zipper is now being repositioned to create fastening options in streetwear silhouttes. It gives an accent in fashion that has its own aesthtic appeal as well as serving a dynamic feature within a garment. This trend often is showing the zipper either oversize and exaggerated, moved in unusual places such as down the leg or around the shoulder, or even creating an opening of more material for a garment to expand in form. This trend of incorporating the zipper in a new invntive way by repositioning it, is primarily seen in streetwear. We see brands like the Y project, Off White, Versace, and Marc Jabods influenced by this streetwear inspiration in their collections.
Juun J RTW SS 2016
Mugler PreFall 2016
S E E N O N T H E RU N W AY
Maxime Simoëns SS 2014
Marc Jacobs FW 2015
Julien David SS 2017
WORKS CITED: https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Denim/w/A_W_18_19/26439 https://www.farfetch.com http://secondstreet.ru/blog/dizainery/zasveti-vtoroj-sloj-juun_j-ss_16.html https://www.vogue.com https://wonderopolis.org/wonder/who-invented-the-zipper https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zipper https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-the-zipper-4066245