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CONTRIBUTERS’ ® What is your ultimate bucket list adventure?

Issue 11 | The Adventure Issue | May/Jun 2019

P U B L I S H E R . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Victoria Wise E D I T O R . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lee Virden Geurkink ILL U S T R A T O R . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trish Wise L E A D D E S I G N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sovic Designs

A: Ride the Venice-Simplon Orient

A: Island hop around the Ring of Fire

Express from Paris to Istanbul

- Lee Virden Geurkink

C O V E R D E S I G N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Victoria Wise

- Victoria Wise

A: Live in Spain for one semester with my daughter - Sarah Angle

C O N T R I B UTI N G W R I T E R S Sarah Angle Edward Brown Shilo Urban Sachi Mitchell William Wise

A: Run a marathon

A: Hitchhike or take a train through

- Edward Brown

Europe like a 20-year-old

A: Take my family to Japan to visit family and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

- Shannon Lange

- Sachi Mitchell

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Edward Brown Shannon Lange

Madeworthy Magazine is an extension of Tanglewood Moms, LLC., and serves to tell community stories for a family audience. For website and magazine advertising opportunities, please contact: Victoria@MadeworthyMedia.com

by Sarah Angle

HELLO, HE'S TONY GREEN

I arrive during the “run through” for the pilot episode. It’s March 23. The man of the hour, Tony Green, is sitting at his newly-built desk on a stage across from the bar inside Shipping and Receiving. This Near Southside bar/concert venue/art gallery/ recording studio/cultural hub is now home to Fort Worth’s latest talk show, “Hello, I’m Tony Green.” It certainly looks like a traditional talk show, with a wooden desk, three black chairs, bright lights, and, yes, alcohol. But it’s actually an Internet show that thinks it’s on television, explains Green. And it’s funny. Very (very) funny. At the moment, the room is swarming with bearded hipsters, all prepping Green, 34, in various ways for the big show. This is a big deal. Today is Green’s chance to shine and show a different side of Fort Worth to the world. “Last week my stomach was in knots I was so nervous,” says Green. “But after the run-through, I started to feel a little bit better. I had a text from Mom this morning, and I felt like my dad was with me for a moment. Now I’m feeling good.”

A: Travel to Papua New Guinea

A: Visit all 50 states – only 7 to go!

- Shilo Urban

- Trish Wise

We head up to the appropriately-named green room for Green’s makeup. Aston Evada from Novak Hair Studios has her magical brushes ready to go. First things first. “Little eye masks. That depuffs your eye area,” Evada says. Even before the makeup, Green shimmers. He radiates positivity and authenticity. People are attracted to him because of it, and everyone here tonight wants him to succeed. Green’s first outfit of the evening is black jeans and a denim Levi’s jacket with gold threading that he got on sale for $30. Plus, a black pair of Tony Lamas that he was gifted by a senior executive at Justin Boots just because she loved Tony. “We’re going to have costume changes and glam it up mid-show…” Green says. As I sit and watch Green become even more lovely, I’m being filmed. Everything that is happening tonight is being recorded all the time. Hello, reality television. But “Hello, I’m Tony Green” isn’t just another reality television show to come out of Fort Worth, this show has a different business model and intention. “The show was born and bred out of people asking me ‘what’s going on this weekend,’” Green says. He’d been posting this content on his personal Instagram @tonyeveryman for a long time. Through it and his dazzling personality, he’s generated 2,617 followers. But now, the stakes are higher. “We don’t know what’s next,” says Green. “This is something we want to do really well so we can pitch it to sponsors and show their products while always having fun with it.” Tonight’s sponsor is Mi Campo tequila — a new wine barrel aged tequila that’s marketed to millennials. The product is prominently placed on Green’s desk during the show photos by Walt Burns

A: Drive the Pan-American Highway from Prudhoe Bay to Tierra del Fuego - William Wise

and mixed freely at the bar. Green, a native Fort Worthian, says he provides the black gay perspective, something that all cities can benefit from. “Fort Worth is diverse and accepting as a community,” says Green. “The Fort Worth way is rooted in kindness, and that’s definitely me.” Back in the green room, a few hours before the live audience arrives, Tony bounces around with nervous energy, confidence, and sweet humility. His lips are now painted a soft shade of pink. His skin looks perfect. And his face has been contoured. Tonight, he’ll be interviewing Fort Worth artist Nancy Lamb, a local musician, and a drag queen in full dress. He’ll also be singing a little ditty himself. The show has a sketch comedy vibe with the addition of audience questions and answers. “We’re throwing ourselves out there,” says Green. “We have a team, and we’re tying in music with Niles City Sound. They’re sending artists to us, and we can do strippeddown versions of people singing in their studio.” The partnership with Niles City, a new recording studio inside Shipping and Receiving, gives the show even more weight and prominence as a leading cultural voice in the community. At the end of the day, the show is streaming on YouTube and social media. Just like any form of media, Green and his team need eyes on the show to get advertising partners and generate revenue. But Green has a secret weapon: his humor mixed with humility. He’s like that great friend you always wanted to know. Now you can have that friend every time he says, “Hello, I’m Tony Green.”

by Edward Brown

CITIZEN

The excitement was palpable as dignitaries, city staff, and event coordinators whooshed about in the final hour before the Fort Worth and Nîmes, France Sister Cities accord-signing ceremony. The latest agreement through Sister Cities International is the ninth connection for our fair city. As I waited for my chance to interview Nîmes Mayor Jean-Paul Fournier near the entrance to the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, I scribbled down questions. (It had been a long day.) Mayor Fournier soon approached, followed by his wife, the deputy mayor of Nîmes, a translator, and several officials from France. Speaking through a translator, the mayor told me he was excited to formalize Nîmes’ first North American sister city. When I asked which features of Fort Worth might shock natives from his city, he answered, “Your highways, trucks — the immense size of everything.” Nîmes and Fort Worth do share something unique, he added. Both cities have a love and respect for the bull. Fournier said he was looking forward to visiting the Stockyards and the Fort Worth Stock Show & Rodeo. In the main auditorium, Sundance Square President Johnny Campbell kicked off the ceremony after an opening performance by the Fort Worth-based Texas Girls Choir. “This is a culmination of three years of work,” he said. “I’m happy to see it come to fruition. Last year, we showed [Mayor Fournier] Fort Worth hospitality. We think that went well because he contacted Mayor Price soon after." Fournier then addressed the packed auditorium. “I am honored to be with you on this special occasion,” he said. “We share a culture and passion — the one of the bull. Both our cities cherish this animal. The bull in Fort Worth does have longer horns. I can’t wait to welcome you all in Nîmes. The Roman France, surrounded by seven mountains. Nîmes is looking forward to the future with joy and knowing that we are beginning a new adventure.” That sense of adventure drives much of the excitement behind Sister Cities International. Mae Ferguson, president and CEO of Sister Cities Fort Worth, described comments dozens of Fort Worth high schoolers recently gave upon returning from Italy earlier that month. “‘Amazing, life-changing, and

DI PL OMAT S the best experience ever.’ Those are some of the things we hear, and it makes it all worthwhile,” she told me. “Sister Cities offers an opportunity to explore the world but with a purpose. It is not just for tourist-related reasons. We want our [travelers] to get to really know these people, what makes them tick, and what family life is like. Our underlying mission is to create a more peaceful and prosperous world. We are citizen diplomats.” The most memorable trip Ferguson has undertaken was to the small African country of Mbabane, Eswatini, one of Fort Worth’s nine sister cities. “I love the people,” she said. “They are so kind and gracious.” Africa, she added, can be a captivating world of dichotomies. The land can be as visually rich as the locals are economically poor. Volunteers from Sister Cities Fort Worth built a community health center with funds from the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation and the Africa Urban Poverty Alleviation Program several years ago. The small, landlocked nation suffers from high rates of HIV, meaning many orphaned children are left to fend for themselves. The health center doubles as a food pantry, Ferguson said. “Sitting in that community center and feeding these little children who will probably only have one meal that day, I’ll never forget that,” she said. Fort Worth Sister Cities is celebrating its 34th year. The key to maintaining meaningful relations is ensuring that groups of locals visit Fort Worth’s sister cities at least once every two years. The Fort Worth nonprofit oversees dozens of foreign exchanges each year, ranging from sports trips to choir performances abroad and even police exchanges. In 2017, the group organized 22 inbound exchanges, 19 outbound exchanges, 385 inbound and outbound delegates, and 90 local programs. The signing of the Sister Cities accord with Nîmes is finalized, but, as part of tradition, Mayor Betsy Price will lead a delegation to France this September to sign the Sister City accord once more in Nîmes. Then the several-year process of adopting another city will begin again. “We’ve wanted a partner in South America, so we’re going to Argentina and Uruguay in May. After we finalize that, we’ll start looking in Canada,” Ferguson said. photos by Leo Wessman for Fort Worth Sister Cities

5521 Bellaire Drive South, Suite 210 Fort Worth, TX 76109

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KALE SALAD WITH CANDIED NUTS & SEEDS & GOLDEN RAISINS Adventuring requires fuel, and this salad from Great Harvest Bread Co. fits the bill. Owner Jon Davis says to keep the leftovers; as it marinates in the dressing, it becomes even more delicious!

for the dressing

for the nuts and seeds

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 cups mixed nuts and seeds

1 clove garlic, minced

(Great Harvest Bread Co. uses pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and walnuts)

1/3 cup red wine or sherry vinegar

1 tbsp. canola oil

2 tsp. honey

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

1 cup olive oil

¼ tsp. ground allspice

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme FROM FOR T WOR TH'S FOOD MASTERS

½ tsp. ground black pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tbsp. honey

BAKED CARAMEL APPLE PANCAKE for the salad

Before setting out on any adventure, a good breakfast is essential. Great Harvest Bread Co’s Jon Davis shares this easy-to-make and delicious pancake recipe to start your day.

1 bunch kale (try to find Lacinato/Tuscan/black kale), washed and dried, stems removed, and cut into strips

ingredients

½ cup golden raisins 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 cup candied seed/nut mixture

¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

½ cup vinaigrette

2 eggs

1 ½ tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 ½ cup water

4 tbsp. unsalted butter (other use)

3 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 2 ¼ cups Great Harvest Pancake Mix

¼ cup honey

1 tbsp. water (other use)

½ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. vanilla extract

directions for nuts and seeds

½ cup brown sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°. Toss all the ingredients except the honey, spread onto a baking sheet, and roast for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the honey, stirring to coat. Continue roasting for about another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and allow to cool. Break apart as necessary.

1 cup pecans Powdered sugar for dusting

directions Preheat the oven to 375°. In a medium bowl, gently mix the pancake mix, 1 ½ cups water, vanilla, eggs, 1 ½ tbsp. melted butter, cinnamon, and nutmeg until just moistened. There will still be small lumps. This needs to sit for at least 5 minutes to allow the mixture to incorporate and thicken.

directions for the dressing

Heat an oven-safe non-stick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat before adding the 4 tbsp. butter, granulated sugar, ¼ cup of brown sugar, honey, and 1 tbsp. water to the skillet and stir constantly for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the mixture is a deep caramel color. Add the apples (carefully – it’s hot!) and stir to coat. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the apples are slightly softened. Pour in the pancake batter and spread evenly over the apples. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup brown sugar and the pecans over the top and bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

You can either whisk the mustard, garlic, vinegar, and honey together and then drizzle in the oil, whisking to emulsify, adding the thyme, salt, and pepper at the end, or you can add all the ingredients to a jar with a tight lid and shake well. directions for the salad Toss all ingredients together, mixing well. Serves 2 to 3 as a main or 4 to 6 as a side.

Allow the pancake to cool before inverting onto a plate and serving. This is also great after dinner, served with vanilla ice cream! Serves 4 to 6.

BURMESE GRILLED FISH WITH COCONUT RICE Chef Braden of Malai Kitchen’s marinated fish over coconut rice is the perfect meal for the end of a long day of adventures.

for the fish

for the salsa

1 7 oz. filet of firm fish

1 cup chopped shallots

(like cobia or swordfish) per person

2 jalapeños, seeded

Salt and pepper

¼ bunch cilantro

4 garlic cloves

¼ cup lime juice

1 Fresno chile (long, red chile, slightly spicy) 1 large or 2 small shallots, peeled and chopped 1 tbsp. salt

Once you are ready, preheat the oven to 375°. You can either grill or pan sear the fish over medium heat. Cook for 4 minutes, turning every minute so the marinade doesn’t burn. Place the fish on a baking sheet and finish in the oven for 5 minutes. Serve over the coconut rice and top with the salsa.

1 tsp. salt

3 tbsp. ginger, peeled and chopped 1 tbsp. turmeric powder

and coat liberally with the cooled marinade paste. Let sit while you assemble the salsa and rice.

directions for salsa

for the coconut rice

In a blender, combine all ingredients and pulse until they reach a relish-like texture. Set aside.

1 cup jasmine rice 1 ¼ cups water

2 tbsp. fish sauce

½ cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 tbsp. canola oil

1 tsp. salt

directions for coconut rice Combine all ingredient in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Once boiling, cover the pot and reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until all the liquid is absorbed. Stir gently with a fork.

directions for the fish In a blender, combine the garlic, chile, ginger, shallot, turmeric, salt, and fish sauce, and puree. Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat, sauté the paste for about 3 minutes. Allow to cool. Season the fish with salt and pepper

This meal serves 4. 6

illustrations by Trish Wise

EV EN TS

ACTIVITIE S

Victoria Wise, TanglewoodMoms.com founder and Madeworthy publisher, brings you the top Fort Worth experiences. You do not want to miss these!

May 1 Empty Bowls: Will Rogers Memorial Center | tafb.org

May 2 Mayfest: Trinity Park | tickets.mayfest.org

Mar 2 Planes Grains and Automobiles: Fort Worth Flight Center | richaviationservices.com

May 2 The Mama Experience: BlackEyed Distilling | themamaexperience.me

May 4

May 30 Frida and Diego Showcase: Rose Marine Theater | fwopera.org

June 1 The Producers: Casa Mañana | casamanana.org

June 1 Race Street Rollick Artisan Market | fb.com/racestreetrollick

June 1 Summer Sizzler 10K & 5K: Martin House Brewing | martinhousebrewing.com

MMBNT Grand Opening: 7617 Benbrook Parkway | texasmilkbank.org

May 8 Foto Fest Foto Forklorico: Joe T. Garcias | eventbrite.com

June 1 Beginning Knit with JuJu Knits: Center for the Healing Arts | jujuknitsfw.com

June 6 Rising Tide Happy Hour: Rising Tide Initiative| risingtideinitiative.com

May 11 2019 Historic Homes of Fairmount Tour | historicfairmount.com

May 15

June 7 – July 7 Concerts in the Garden: Fort Worth Botanic Gardens | fwsymphony.org

Fort Worth Annual Doing the Most Good: TCU BLUU | salvationarmydfw.org/events

May 17 Wild Nights with Emily (film): Modern Art Museum | themodern.org

May 17 Whatever Floats Your Boat: Panther Island Pavillion Regatta | pantherislandpavilion.com

photo by Julien Lambert

May 18-19 AIA 6th Annual Homes Tour | aiafw.org/opendoorsopengates

June 8 Urban Traders Market: Waterside | watersidefw.com

June 10 Lone Star Film Festival Film Camp | lonestarfilmfestival.com

photo by AIA Fort Worth

May 19 Canoe Fest: Fort Worth Nature Center & Refuge | fwnaturecenter.org

May 21 Intro to Watercolor: The Art Room | artroomfw.org

Lose the cover up.

May 22- Jun 2

June 18 Spay and Neuter for Free: Humane Society of North Texas | hsnt.org

Anastasia: Bass Hall | basshall.com

June 22

May 24

Tour de Cure: Panther Island Pavillion | main.diabetes.org

Pinocchio: Bass Hall | texasballettheater.org

June 22-23 Icons: an imPULSE dance project: FW Community Arts Center | fwcac.com

June 25-30 Les Misérables: Bass Hall | basshall.com

June 26 Artspace111 After Hours | artspace111.com photo by Steven Visneau

May 25 Adult Day Camp: SiNaCa Studios | sinacastudios.org

May 29 A Walk and Talk Tour: Gladney Center for Adoption | iamgladney.org

photo by Stephanie Rose Photo

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June 30 American Music Tour: Shipping & Receiving Bar | shippingandreceiving.bar

by Lee Virden Geurkink

A TR I P T HROUGH T E X A S '

H ISTORY

Deep in the Piney Wood of East Texas is the Caddo Mounds State Historic Site. Located on an ancient Native American trail which the Spanish later used and called El Camino Real de los Tejas (in and of itself a National Historic Trail) and consisting of a burial mound and two platform mounds, the site is believed to have been founded around 800CE. The Caddoan Mississippians, who settled in the area, were the direct ancestors of today’s Caddo Nation. The site includes a museum with a replica of a Caddo village, hands-on exhibits, and a self-guided interpretive trail around the burial, ceremonial, and temple mounds.

When I was little, we traveled everywhere by car. We drove all over Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado every summer. While I didn’t appreciate these trips as a teenager, I look back on them with fondness – talking with my parents about the different geological formations Every year in early summer, the Alabama-Coushatta Tribe of Texas holds and history of the areas we drove their annual pow wow in Livingston, Texas, and it’s open to the public. This through or just listening to my year’s pow wow will be held on May 31 and June 1. The Alabama-Coushatta Walkman as I watched the scenery (also known as Koasati) are descended from members of the historic slide by. We had a good time Creek Confederacy of the Southeast. Forced from their lands in Alabama, together. Tennessee, Georgia, and Florida, they originally settled in Louisiana before One of the joys of a long car moving to the Big Thicket in East Texas. The annual pow wow is a showcase trip is stopping off at places of for indigenous dancers from across the US. interest along the way. Little ghost towns, historical markers in the middle of nowhere, and roadside attractions are Located near ancient springs on all grist for my mill. As a history geek, I’m a tributary of the Brazos River, in heaven if I can find an archeological Lubbock Lake’s archeological significance was discovered when the site to wander through. Recently, I’ve City of Lubbock dredged the lake to make it a usable water supply for been intrigued by the history of Native the city. There is evidence of almost 12,000 years of various cultures’ Americans in Texas. I’ve compiled a list use of the lake as a watering hole on the Llano Estacado. Clovis and of various Native American historical and Folsom peoples used it. It was an important part of the Apache and archeological sites in Texas that will keep Comanche hold over the Llano. Run by the Museum of Texas Tech our family’s travel schedule full for the University, you can view active archeological digs and hike almost 5 next few summers. Perhaps you will plan miles of trails to explore the area at your own pace. a trip to explore our state’s fascinating heritage with your family soon.

A L O C A L’ S

T R AV E L G U I D E

by Edward Brown

Adventures are an escape from the ordinary with the hope of finding something extraordinary. These locales won’t require a passport or even a significant budget. When exploring these parts of Fort Worth, you only need a few hours and an open mind.

drive from Magnolia Avenue. Poly Theater (3001 Vaughn Blvd) is in rougher shape than others but still offers great shots. I recently took my camera out to snag some photos of Aviation Falls. The scenic waterfall is the highest in Tarrant County. Accessing Aviation Falls has become easier after the recent opening of Airfield Falls Trailhead and Conservation Park (200 Pumphrey Dr). The trailhead holds several picnic tables, and a large McDonnell Douglas C-9 floats overhead. Greenery envelops visitors as they make the short stroll down to Aviation Falls. The park has large educational signs that highlight the area’s history while teaching the importance of water conservation.

FOODIE ADVENTURES

Fort Worth offers more culinary offerings than TexMex and barbecue. Searching out Nepalese, Ethiopian, or Central American hole-in-the-wall restaurants is one way to explore new neighborhoods and communities. Namaste (923 E Seminary Dr) inhabits an old Sonic drive-in. The decor is modest, but the dishes are rich in Nepalese traditional spices. If you are unfamiliar with the potential gamey flavor of mutton, opt for the chicken when ordering here. Fort Worth is also full of fun, gas station-based restaurants like Tex-Mex Express (6550 Wichita St) and, one of my personal favorites, Taqueria Insurgentes (6753 E Lancaster Ave). Nathanael Gassett is a chef and blogger under the handle @WeroKitchen. He makes a point to scout out local ethnic restaurants through his Instagram page. I highly recommend following him.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Thanks to Netflix and digital photography, we’re concurrently in a Golden Age of television and photography. While streaming services encourage folks to stay in, these tips require snagging your camera and heading outdoors. Fort Worth is home to several abandoned movie theaters that can be revived at the hands of a thoughtful photographer. Grand Theater (1110 Fabons St) was built nearly a century ago and is only a short

About 40 miles north of Austin is one of the most important archeological sites in the US. The site contains evidence of almost continuous human habitation for at least 16,000 years, before the appearance of the Clovis people. The Clovis culture was previously thought to be the first widespread human culture in the New World, but discoveries at the Gault site (named for Henry Gault, who farmed the area in the early 20th century) have disproved the Clovis theory. The nearby Bell County Museum in Belton has a permanent exhibit dedicated to the Gault site.

Big Bend is one of the most remote, least-visited, and arguably most beautiful of our national parks, and it’s full of Native American sites. There is archeological evidence of habitation from the PaleoIndian period (10,500 years ago), as well as more recent habitation by the Chisos, Mescaleros, Jumanos, Apache, and Comanche. The Burro Mesa Archeological District include a quarry used by Paleo-Indians as a source for chert used in their chipped-stone tools. Boquillas Hot Springs, developed in the early 20th century as a health resort, has ancient petroglyphs on the limestone cliffs. Apaches farmed in the area, and the Comanche trail passed by the springs. And finally, the Chimneys Trail near Terlingua offers the chance to see more extensive Native American petroglyphs on the dramatic volcanic dike formations.

A D U LT A D V E N T U R E S

Heard of the Fort Worth Ale Trail? Visit fortworth. com/aletrail to download your craft beer passport, and have every local brewer stamp it to confirm your visit. Once you collect them all, you can claim a prize at any Visit Fort Worth office. If you enjoy scoping out new or lesser-known bars, these watering holes should be on your radar. WXYZ bar (334 W 3rd St) recently opened downtown. The posh bar features mid-century modern furniture, modern art, and superlative cocktails. The Basement Lounge (6323 Camp Bowie Blvd) is easy to miss. A small door is all that hints at the basement-level bar. The space features local artists and great customer service. I find myself unwinding here at least once a month. Somehow folks still don’t know that Ampersand (3009 Bledsoe St) has an amazing and spacious bar in the back. I’ll resist any mullet metaphors here, but the coffee-shop-up-frontand-party-in-the-back combo is not to be missed.

A D V E N T U R E S F O R T H E FA M I LY

photo by Edward Brown

PUBLIC ART

Fort Worth Public Art’s projects offer a wealth of statues, murals, and installation artworks that can be photographed or simply contemplated in solitude. Earth Foundation by Philippe Klinefelter (4800 Camp Bowie Blvd) was carved from a sixty-ton block of granite over two years. The three openings in the sphere reference thoroughfares in the neighborhood. Elizabeth Tower by Alice Bateman (1300 Elizabeth Blvd) is a tribute to the history of Ryan Place Neighborhood. The steel tower sits prominently at the center of a traffic circle and is arguably best seen at night when illuminated. Visit Fwpublicart.org for more fun spots to visit.

TexRail offers a scenic trip from downtown Fort Worth to DFW International Airport and back. Any parents out there know that kids love trains. Before riding TexRail, plan your trip. Parking at T&P Station is free. There are several stops along the way, including the Stockyards and Grapevine. If you hop off at the Stockyard in Fort Worth’s North Side, you can visit dozens of bronze inlaid markers (modeled after a frontier marshal’s badge) that recognize individuals who contributed to Fort Worth’s Western way of life. Counting all the markers that make up the Texas Trail of Fame (131 E Exchange Ave) is a great way to experience Fort Worth’s cowboy culture. Grapevine should be on your list of places to hop off TexRail. My family stumbled upon Vetro Glassblowing Studio (701 S Main St). You can watch live glassblowing exhibitions or peruse the custom glassware store. In December, they let children participate in designing their own Christmas ornaments. Wherever you roam, Fort Worth has a wealth of mini adventures just waiting to be discovered.

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A M EDICAL M IS SIO N TRIP TO CAMBODIA

by William Wise

On April 17th, 1975, Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, fell to Khmer Rouge forces. Thus began one of the most horrific chapters in human history. The citizens of Phnom Penh were removed from their homes and forced from their city at gunpoint. Some 20,000 people were killed in the forced exodus. Those remaining were forced into the countryside to work as farmers, or into concentration camps. Over the next four years, Pol Pot and his regime would go on to murder nearly 2 million people, over 25% of the entire population of Cambodia. Nearly all professionals and skilled laborers were executed or put into concentration camps with, invariably, the same result. In the name of Pol Pot’s agrarian utopia, teachers, lawyers, and doctors, along with mechanics and factory machinists, were targeted and killed. The result was a societal devolution unparalleled in modern history. All manufacturing ceased to operate. All learning outside Khmer Rouge indoctrination efforts ground to a sudden halt. Any semblance of a justice system was replaced by the animal brutality of the Khmer Rouge. As doctors were either killed or fled the country, the medical needs of the population were entrusted to brutal youth medics, indoctrinated by the Khmer Rouge, who had little to no actual medical training. Western medicine, thought by the Khmer Rouge to be a contrivance of Western capitalism, was banned. The medical library in Phnom Penh was burned. The entirety of medical knowledge in Cambodia was lost. Starting from scratch to understand the human body, the youth medics carried out horrific testing, examples of which are unfit for inclusion in this publication, on live, non-consenting “patients.” Although it’s been forty years since the Khmer Rouge was removed from power, the country is still in the grips of a genocide hangover. The population, 50% of which is under the age of 25, lacks education and productive skills. Rural Cambodia, which by any standard can only be described as impoverished, lacks basic infrastructure. Cambodia is by every definition a poor, third-world country. It’s not all bad news for Cambodia, though. Since 2000, the country has seen GDP growth of 7% to 8% per year, with textiles and tourism accounting for most of the increase. In fact, the World Bank recently upgraded Cambodia’s status from a low-income country to a low-middle-income country. While this will reduce Cambodia’s access to foreign assistance and will require the government to get creative in finding new sources of much needed aid, it is an indicator of a strengthening economy. Phnom Penh, once ground zero for the worst genocide of the Cold War, is now a bustling metropolis of nearly two million people complete with modern skyscrapers and shopping malls sprouting up amongst its ancient Buddhist temples. Chinese developers are making significant investment in Cambodia, and for residents of Phnom Penh and other cities, this has resulted in increased quality of life and access to improved medical treatment and modern conveniences.

Photos courtesy of Dr. Michael Cowan

For rural Cambodians, however, not much has changed. While the threat of arrest, torture, and execution no longer hangs over their heads, the majority of Cambodians still live a life most accurately described as subsistence farming. They have little in the way of creature comforts and survive on what they can grow, hoping to sell what little is left over. A major challenge for most Cambodians is access to even the most basic medical care. Considering many Cambodians have never been seen by a doctor or dentist, the idea of consistent treatment options is unimaginable. While continuity of care is a distant goal, altruistic doctors, dentists, and nurses are doing what they can now. Madeworthy sat down with Dr. Michael Cowan who recently returned from a medical mission to Cambodia.

in our efforts. We had access to a lot of medications through a local surgeon, but we didn’t have a pharmacist. Some of the members of our mission acted as our pharmacists. I could diagnose someone with hypertension and write out a prescription on a piece of paper, and our folks would locate the meds, fill the prescription, and catalog all the medications. We also brought a lot of eyeglasses with us. We didn’t have an optometrist or ophthalmologist so members of the group would have people read an eye chart, and we could give them glasses based on those results. Many of them hadn’t seen clearly in years! MADEWORTHY: Thanks for speaking with me today. How did this trip come together for you?

MADEWORTHY: What were your days like? Were you treating patients all day?

DR. COWAN: My wife was out of town, and my daughter and I went to services at Christ Chapel one Sunday afternoon last fall. During the announcements, they said they were putting together a medical mission trip to Cambodia and if anyone was interested to come speak to them after the service. I don’t know why, but I immediately said to myself, “I’m going on that trip.” I had never been on a mission trip before, but I really felt called to go.

DR. COWAN: Yes! Our first day when we were setting up to receive patients, there were hundreds of people waiting. We worked 12-hour days, and I can’t remember the last time I was that tired. I felt like I was a resident again. We would work all day, and when we got back, I would lay down for just a minute and then wake up around midnight. One day, we went to a Buddhist temple and set up our clinic right in the middle of the temple. The monks, I think there were about two dozen of them, all had scabies, and we treated them. Word had obviously gone around that we were there, because again there were a couple hundred people waiting to be seen. We treated people for all kinds of things. Scabies, lice, hypertension, GI issues. I am a pediatrician, but I was treating kids and adults. One man had a large growth on the side of his head that I removed under local anesthetic. He never moved a muscle. You would never do that here, but they don’t have modern facilities there. The dentists were treating people who had never had dental care in their lives. They were extracting teeth, and you could tell they were just making people’s lives better. It was amazing. One day we were setting up our clinic across the street from a middle school in this small town. I walked over to talk to the kids. They were all very friendly. The Cambodians love Americans! There was a white woman there. She was young, probably about 22. Her name is Mackenzie, and she is from Montana. She is spending two years there through the Peace Corps to teach the kids English. Later, she came over to our clinic and spoke with us. She lives

MADEWORTHY: So the mission was set up through Christ Chapel? DR. COWAN: Yes. Christ Chapel partnered with MANNA Worldwide, which is a non-profit with missions all around the world. They helped us develop our itinerary and with logistics and local resources like our drivers and translators. You can’t just turn up in a foreign country and say, “I’m a doctor and I’d like to treat people.” There’s a lot of groundwork to do beforehand, and MANNA Worldwide handled a lot of that for us. MADEWORTHY: How many people were in your group? DR. COWAN: We had 25 total. We had three doctors, two dentists, and a physician’s assistant. MADEWORTHY: What did the non-medical members of the group do? DR. COWAN: Well, it wasn’t a strictly medical mission. It was a religious mission, too. So most of the non-medical group members spent time with people spreading the word of the Gospel. On our first full day in Cambodia, we went to an orphanage run by Filipino Christians. They spent time with the children there. Cambodia is over 92% Buddhist, so they were spreading the message of Christianity. They also assisted us

with a family in this small town in very primitive conditions. It’s just really impressive. I am very proud of her. MADEWORTHY: You were mostly in rural areas, right? What were the conditions like? DR. COWAN: Yes. The people are extremely poor. They have nothing. They live in shacks, and they never complain about a thing. That’s one thing that really struck me. The people are all so kind and sweet, but if they don’t work, they don’t eat. Yet they never complain about a thing. MADEWORTHY: Were there any cases or patients that you found particularly remarkable? DR. COWAN: Well, the man with the growth on his head for one. It was large and obstructive. He couldn’t sleep on his side, for instance. Having it removed was life changing for him. But the one that stood out the most was a little girl. She was five years old. She came to us to be treated for a skin infection. Many of these people had never seen a doctor before so I performed a full check up on them. Look in their eyes, ears, nose, throats. I listened to their hearts and lungs. This particular girl had a serious heart murmur. It was not slight. It was loud and very obvious. Probably no one had ever listened to her heart before. Through the local surgeon I mentioned before, we were able to arrange for her and her mother to go to the city so she could be seen by a pediatric cardiologist. MADEWORTHY: What was your biggest takeaway from your trip? What did you get out of it or how did it change you? DR. COWAN: When I decided to go on the trip, I made a conscious decision to make sure that I was going for the right reason: in order to help others. To work hard and make other people’s lives better. Not simply to do something that would make me feel good, but to really put other people before myself. I think we all did that. We worked very hard. We treated over 900 people in the five days we set up our clinic. MADEWORTHY: Do you think you would like to go back? DR. COWAN: Oh yes! I definitely want to go back. Because of what happened in the ‘70s, at one point there were only a couple of dozen doctors in the entire country. There is a medical school in Phnom Penh now, and doctors come from all over the world to give their time to teach and work with the doctors in the hospital. The young doctors there are all good, but they lack training. Many of their techniques are somewhat antiquated. I would love to go back and spend some time helping them learn some modern techniques. If I had the means, I would love to spend a couple of years and go to Vietnam and then Laos, where the conditions are perhaps even more primitive.

Traveling halfway around the world meets most people’s criteria for what an adventure should be, at least insofar as it is a physical undertaking. Traveling halfway around the world to give freely of one’s time and one’s talents in the name of helping others is beyond what most people consider an adventure. It goes beyond the mere physical. It is as much a spiritual undertaking as anything. Medical professionals like Dr. Cowan who sacrifice to work in Cambodia are treating more than individual patients. They are helping to heal the lingering wounds of a nation once torn apart. 11

BRIGHT IDEAS A GUIDE TO PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS

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The Gallagher Firm | It’s property tax protest time again! Melissa Lowery Gallagher, the Managing Attorney of The Gallagher Firm, earned her Juris Doctorate from Texas A&M University School of Law in 2013. Melissa lives in Fort Worth with her husband and four children. The Gallagher Firm exclusively represents Tarrant County residential property owners. Gallagher strongly believes limiting her practice to Tarrant County gives her and her clients an edge when it comes to property tax protests. "Keeping the practice local to Fort Worth ensures that we have a focused and thoughtful approach to obtaining and maintaining market knowledge of residential properties and values in Fort Worth." Burke Mechanical | Brace yourselves: summer is coming! As usual, it’s going to be HOT! It's probably been a few months since you've run your A/C regularly. Now is the time to have it inspected and maintained. Burke Mechanical Air Conditioning and Heating has earned their reputation for integrity and superior customer service, regardless of the size of the job. Having grown up just down the road in Crowley, owner Brad Burke prides himself on having a small town sense of service to go along with more than 15 years of HVAC experience. With a thirty-mile service radius, Burke Mechanical proudly serves all of Fort Worth.

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After a few months, we hit some stumbling blocks. The excitement of the new started to wear thin. For the kids, there were some days that felt overwhelming. New town, new school, new kids, new accents, new foods. Everything was different at their new school. No one wears shoes inside the classrooms, there are no uniforms, and school work is done on your Chromebook. They had to learn new rules about going to the bathroom, checking out a book, or going through the lunch line. Being the new kid is fun at first, but that wears off, and you realize that making friends takes time. There were mornings when Jonah begged to not go to school. It was hard to watch them struggle. At times, I felt like we made a mistake moving here, and it made me question everything. I leaned on my core group of mom friends, and they encouraged me to share my struggles with my kids. I was having trouble making friends, too, and I felt lonely and isolated some days. At night, we would talk about it. We would share our feelings and cry together. Moving away made us love Fort Worth even more, but we had to leave room in our hearts for Hawaii and be open to this new experience. We would end by saying that we were so thankful to have each other. We were a team, and we were in this together. The good and the bad. No one was alone in this adventure. Our new school curriculum includes Japanese language and Hawaiian Studies. I am half Japanese and can help Jonah with his Japanese homework. For the first time, Jonah looked at me and said, “I am so lucky to have a Japanese mom.” It was something a kid just says, without much thought. But it was how he felt in the moment, so he blurted it out. And it's a moment that has stuck with me. I grew up in Texas most of my life and being Asian was far from cool. It was a full circle moment to hear my child say that to me, and it felt good. We have come through these stumbling blocks stronger and wiser. We proved to ourselves that we can be brave and go for it. We can fall and get back up. After nine months, we have found an incredible group of friends and have a supportive community. Our kids are thriving at their new school, happy to have sweet classmates, and have joined great sports teams. We look around and pinch ourselves that we live in paradise. And what we have found is that paradise is best seen with grateful eyes and a brave heart.

e moved to Hawaii to chase a dream. We fell in love with Hawaii for its culture, its way of life, its outdoor lifestyle. We always said we would retire there, but the passing of my husband Jason’s father taught us that life is short, tomorrow is never promised, so why wait? No one wants to admit that change is scary. We would be moving to an island in the middle of the Pacific where we didn’t know anyone and where we had been a handful of times. If it were just my husband and me, it wouldn’t be a big deal. But I was taking my children out of a wonderful, supportive school and community where they were thriving to move them to this unknown, and it weighed heavily on me. Jason and I fought a lot over the decision, mainly because he was pushing me out of my comfort zone. I take comfort in the status quo. Jason thrives on taking risks. He is a successful businessman because he takes risks. I, on the other hand, like my routine and playing it safe. This move to Hawaii was anything but playing it safe. After many, many “discussions”, there were several reasons I said yes to Hawaii. I want my children to learn to be brave. No one is just brave; it’s something you have to practice. Ultimately, I want them to never let fear dictate their choices. In fact, life is about looking at your fears and, instead of turning away, walking toward them. But those first steps towards fear felt overwhelming. Some days I felt frozen in anxiety. Some days I felt like I was drowning and wanted to turn back to shore. Along that walk, we stumbled. The important part, the courageous part, was to get up and keep going. Fall, get up, keep going. Another reason to move was to simplify our lives. We thought if we pare down on the busy, we may be able to focus on the important. If we live smaller and more simply, we will appreciate the meaningful. This part of the move proved to be back-breaking work. Literally. We had a big house with closets bursting at the seams. We had a garage full of junk and a shed in the backyard that was too scary to enter. For months, we gave away, sold, donated, and dumped. None of our furniture could come with us because the price to ship to the island was astronomical. We shipped two cars, we each had two boxes to fill, and that was it. It was a tough test: “Do I love this thing enough to bring it to Hawaii?” Surprisingly, the kids didn’t blink an eye. They were quick to dump everything into trash bags, and I was the one shouting, “You can’t throw that away!” I would take something out of the donation pile only to realize they were right. It all needed to go. The process was draining, overwhelming, and downright embarrassing. I was ashamed at how much excess we had accumulated over the years, but ultimately, I learned that all these things were just that: just things. The most important pieces in my life were the three people going with me to Hawaii. My mantra was “Clear out the busy, clear out the junk, and focus on the important. Let go of the things weighing you down, and you jump that much higher.” We boarded the plane to Hawaii on July 10th, 2018, with our eight boxes. We rented a house, we enrolled the kids in school, and we were on a high. We did it! After years of preparing and working towards this goal, things had worked out, and we were finally here. This was the honeymoon phase of our transition. Every day, we went to a new beach, tried a new food, or went on a different hike. We explored our new home with voraciousness. 14

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Photo by Will Northern What can an adventurous teen do to become fluent in a complicated foreign language? Fly overseas and experience complete language and cultural immersion! For one month this summer, Bradford Bush will attend the Chinese Language Institute in Guilin, China. Bradford, a sophomore at Trinity Valley School, will participate in one-on-one instruction, take trips throughout China on weekends, and thoroughly immerse himself in the language and culture. Bradford says that his “interest is international business… Fort Worth, my family and TVS have given me an excellent foundation; now it’s time to see the world through a different lens.”

Local non-profit Community In Schools of Greater Tarrant County, Inc. has worked to help students stay in school and achieve in life in Tarrant County since 1992. Operating in 47 schools across Tarrant and Parker counties, CIS helps over 35,000 students annually. Just recently, they were recognized with an historic $1 million gift from the Ramesh and Kalpana Bhatia Family Foundation. Ramesh Bhatia arrived in the US in 1969 as a mechanical engineering student and helped grow Fort Worth-based ATCO into a worldwide leader in flex duct products. The gift will allow CIS to serve thousands of at-risk students for years to come.

What started as small gathering of women who happened to run similar paces has evolved into a movement changing the dynamic and reputation of female distance running in North Texas. The Fort Worth Distance Project consists of a dozen Fort Worth-area women who can be found running through Tanglewood, along the Trinity trails, or at the TCU track long before dawn. Started as a running group for safety and accountability, the real focus of the group is to send as many women possible to the 2020 Marathon Olympic Trials, set for February 29, 2020 in Atlanta, GA. So far, three members have sealed their ticket to the Trials.

Hill School, a Fort Worth college preparatory, full-service school for students who learn differently, has launched a $500,000 outdoor campus improvement project dubbed the “Take It Outside” campaign. The Amon G. Carter Foundation has already pledged a $150,000 gift for the initiative in March 2019. Slated for a summer 2019 kickoff, the campaign will raise funds for a collaborative outdoor learning space, an improved school entrance, an updated lower school playground space, a state-of-the-art running track, an outdoor amphitheater, raised planting beds for ecological education, and peaceful outdoor spaces for reflection and mindfulness activities. These creative spaces will help in cross-curricular learning, as well as social and emotional growth.

Bees are buzzing and flowers are blooming! So, dust off your camera and let Edgar Miller of Edgar Miller Images guide you in recognizing light and composition through examples and hands-on techniques with your camera at Chandor Gardens in Weatherford on May 4. The gardens are a hidden gem based on traditional Chinese and English gardens. The workshop is open to all skill levels. Bring any camera, from smartphone to DSLRs, and Edgar will show you how to make the most of it. Registration includes admission to the grounds and photo permits. More information is available at www.edgarmillerimages.com

Gather is a podcast hosted by Javier, owner of FW Locals, and Matt, also known as the artist Sunflowerman. They teamed up to launch Gather, a podcast that documents the stories of entrepreneurs in Fort Worth and how their businesses are making an impact in Fort Worth. Season 1 featured Kari Crowe of Melt Ice Creams, Jonathan Morris of Fort Worth Barbershop, Patrick Coddou of Supply, and a few other local business owners. Season 2 is in the works and will begin taping soon. Gather can be listened to on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Anchor FM, Overcast, or wherever people listen to their favorite podcasts.

Photo by Edward Brown photo by Austin Crow Drawn together by mutual friends, a common faith, motherhood, and a love of painting, the Fort Worth Women’s Art Circle is expanding Fort Worth’s art community. The name of the collective is both an homage to the Fort Worth Circle, a progressive art colony active in the 1940s and 1950s, and an acknowledgement of their common bonds. Over a lunch at the Modern last fall, the group of seven women decided to do a group show; they plan to do two shows a year, raising funds for a different charity with each show.

Carol Klocek of the Center for Transforming Lives (CTL) has been leading the crusade to help women with children escape poverty and homelessness in Tarrant County since 2009. Under Klocek’s leadership, the social service agency has expanded to serve thousands more impoverished women and children with nearly 100 full-time employees. Last week, CTL released a study on childhood homelessness which reveals that an estimated 14,981 children experience homelessness each year in Tarrant County. “My vision is to build an organization that is truly effective at breaking the cycle of poverty for families — and to do this on a scale that has community impact,” Klocek said.

Fort Worth’s newest public art mural, called Trinity Art Court, is a joint effort by Noel Viramontes (FW Blackhouse), Ricky Cotto (City Post Church), and artist Arnoldo Hurtado (Artscream Truck). The idea for the mural on the B-Ball court in Trinity Park started last April. City Post Church, which meets in an elementary school in the Uptown/Rock Island Community, raised funds at the behest of Cotto, to commission and pay an artist for the mural. The trio hopes this demonstration of unity, along with the creation of the Trinity Art Court mural, will be the catalyst for a more vibrant future in Fort Worth.

Photo by Austin Cochran Local photographer Bree Perez opened Studio Magnolia on Magnolia Avenue last fall. Offering bright, well-lit, affordable space to lease for photo shoots, Studio Magnolia’s genesis is rooted in Perez’s understanding of the difficulty that professional photographers face in trying to find locations on a budget. Originally slated for a spring 2018 opening, Perez had to put her passion project on hold while caring for her terminally-ill father. To honor her late father, Perez hosted a grand opening fundraiser for Cancer Care services on November 10, comprising of photo sessions featuring cancer patients and cancer survivors. “I pray… that Studio Magnolia makes my father proud.”

Photo by Jennifer Harr Photography As two active moms of two young boys, Missy Johnson and Sarah Ross were looking for that perfect piece of athletic apparel to go from the gym to the school pickup line. After years of lackluster shopping, the friends of over 30 years asked themselves what other options were available. They found some amazing clothing and received an eye-opening education on the apparel industry and how every purchase impacts the future of our planet. Their new online boutique, FITTED, features brands that manufacture high-quality, highperforming, socially responsible athletic and athleisure apparel.

SAM Gallery, curated by Jeremy Joel, is excited to announce the artist & music lineup for the inaugural show of PASS THE PEAS, a one-of-a-kind show curated to create an honest network of artists far & near and to connect local art dealers to big talent in different markets. The grandiose art show will showcase 18 local and international artists, 5+ music acts, and performance art May 11th, 2019, in Fort Worth at the contemporary artist haven, Shipping & Receiving. The experience will feature Jeremy Joel, Jake Paleschic, War Party, Montano Simone, Black Taffy, Jay Wilkinson, Juma Spears, Terry Lynn, Mark Clifford, Randall Garrett, Yusuke Okada, David Fullarton, Brandon Pederson, AHK and more.

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T R A V E L S

a mother-daughter trip to remember We started planning our motherdaughter trip to Paris last fall when we made a wish to spend my mother’s 70th birthday in Paris. She shares a March birthday with my daughter who was turning 10. My niece was also turning 20 that month. We thought how memorable it would be to make it a big girls’ trip and include my niece’s mom and her sister. Planning the trip was so much fun, but now that the trip is over, we can share our wisdom on what we liked best and how much time to plan for each adventure. Kaleigh Kirkpatrick, a local travel agent, told me, “I try not to schedule out more than four to six hours of any day when traveling. It’s always nice to have some open time to see where the city takes you!” We spent eight full days in and around Paris, but if I were to make a perfect itinerary to hit all the major tourist spots in Paris proper, I would plan for five or six days at most. Below you’ll find a schedule you can use to plan your trip, knowing that most of those locations are close by one another. Before traveling you can pre-purchase a museum pass (most museums have free entry for children 18 and younger), as well as book your tour of the Eiffel Tower, Palace of Versailles, or tours of any of the museums. In addition, Harvey Boysen of Gulliver’s Travel recommends scanning copies of passports, credit cards, and important prescriptions and emailing them to yourself as a record that you can easily access digitally anywhere in the world. This is good advice for any international travel! We found a darling three-bedroom Airbnb with plenty of space for a great rate, especially considering we would have had to get two small suites at a hotel. We stayed in Montmartre which was beautiful, but we would have saved on Uber rides had we booked closer to the city center. Paris has great transit options if you are traveling on a budget. All you need is great walking shoes since most of these locations are within a ten to twenty-minute walk. On the first day of your arrival, you might want to sign up for one of the big bus tours. You can buy a 24-hour pass from one of their route stops. Many of the days we were there were cold and rainy, and the bus provided a respite while still allowing us to

check locations off our list. I think we all agree that the highlight of the trip was the birthday dinner celebration aboard a bateaux-mouche (an open-air tour boat) on the Seine. When we booked, we thought it would be either really cheesy or completely amazing. It was the latter, thank goodness! After the dinner, we climbed onto the top level of the boat, where we saw the dazzling city of lights and the Eiffel Tower sparkling around us. There was a tie for our second favorite part of the trip. The younger set loved the perfume making class we found on Airbnb Experiences, while the older set loved the Palace of Versailles. Unfortunately, the gardens of Versailles were closed the day we were there, but the views from the inside were breathtaking even in the winter. If you go in the morning, plan to have lunch at Angelina inside the palace. Of all the museums, the Musée d’Orsay was tops on our list. Not only is the collection there impeccable, it’s easy to navigate and not too overwhelming. For an authentic Parisian experience, visit Montmartre, the neighborhood where many of the artists in the museum lived and worked. Montmartre houses only a few museums, including the Espace Dalí, but you can visit Sacré-Cœur, the stunning basilica on the hill with incredible views over the city, and have one of the street artists nearby sketch your portrait for only 10 euros. It’s a souvenir that will always remind you of your Parisian adventure. Paris is an epicurean’s dream. When in Paris, order the escargot, onion soup, steakfrites, and indulge in the pastries, crêpes, and macarons. Bernard Trouche, owner of Saint Emilion and Paris 7th in Fort Worth, suggested Au Pied du Cochon for dinner, and we dined there the day we visited the Louvre since it was nearby. They offer an array of seafood and typical French cuisine, and they stay open until midnight! They say Paris is for lovers, but with my big city-averse spouse (God love him), a trip for just the two of us was never going to happen. Having this big city adventure with my mother and daughter was just as special, though. I hope my daughter was able to learn a bit from another culture that reveres art, fine food, architecture, and history.

Musée du Louvre

Atelier des Lumières

Place du Trocadero

Château de Versailles

Perfume Making Class

Locks of love outside of the Sacré-Cœur

ITINERARY Disneyland Paris DAY 1

DAY 2

DAY 3

Bus Tour of Paris (stop at Trocodero)

Musée d’Orsay

Louvre

Perfume-Making Class

Lunch at Angelina

Tuileries Gardens

Treats from Aux Merrveilleux

Bateau-mouche dinner ride on the Seine

Digital Art Museum

Eiffel Tower Tour

High Tea at Hotel Meurice

DAY 4

DAY 5

EXTRA DAYS

Notre Dame

Sacré-Cœur

Palace of Versailles

Latin Quarter

Espace Dali

Disneyland Paris

Luxembourg Gardens

portraits in Place du Tertre

shopping along Saint Germain

Musée de Montmartre

2 Hour fast train to Strasbourg (must book in advance)

Renoir Gardens

Ladurée

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Musée d'Orsay

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Seeking Adventure in

by Shilo Urban

Spicy red peanuts are piled high next to green cactus pads and tiny purple tomatoes. Technicolor streamers hang off giant starshaped piñatas. A smiling man beckons me to try his fresh white hominy, as women call out their wares: chiles, nopales, chapulines. Heady aromas of ripe mangos and pineapple mingle in the air above mountains of mole mixes: orange amarillo, green pepito, and inky black with dark Oaxacan chocolate. I nibble a coconutstuffed lime and sip on ruby-hued hibiscus juice, strolling aisle after aisle of tulips and roses. I’m awash in the multicolored sensory overload of a Mexico City market and falling deeper in love with every step I take. I had traveled to Mexico before, but not like this. Like many Texans, Mexico was the first foreign country I ever visited. As a six-yearold, I crossed the border into Nuevo Laredo with my family, and I remember gaping at the colorful pottery in the market, just the same as I do now. A few years later, we embarked on a classic Galveston cruise to Cancun and Cozumel, washing ashore at Playa del Carmen with legions of Americans to shop for bottles of vanilla and rainbow-striped blankets.

But that’s not Mexico. Not really. Playa is a Disney-fied version of Mexico that’s designed to cater to vacationing Americans who want their Starbucks and their chain restaurants. Go to Hulen Mall, turn off the air conditioning, eat some tacos – that’s Playa del Carmen, minus the beach. “It’s plastic,” one Mexican said to me, “It’s not real Mexico.” Real Mexico? It isn’t hard to find when you dare to look beyond the cruise ship crowds, the pre-packaged R&R, and your preconceptions of the country. Flying into the metropolitan sprawl of Mexico City, brightly colored buildings pop up through the concrete sprawl: purple, pink, and lemon yellow. Flying two and a half hours to reach a foreign country is a traveler’s dream; I arrived in

Mexico with no jet lag, an abundance of energy, and plenty of vacation money left over from my $128 flight. I headed straight to the Zocalo, the vast urban plaza that is the pulsing heart of the city. My Uber driver chatted the whole way, friendly about my attempts to converse in very broken Spanish. He dropped me off by the ornate Metropolitan Cathedral, which overlooks the Zocalo and the Templo Mayor, an unearthed Aztec pyramid. This area had also been the heart of the ancient Aztec empire. Its colonial church and Aztec temple are strange neighbors but also a fitting microcosm of modern Mexico,

which has fused Spanish influences into a Mesoamerican world. Subway cars rumble past centuries-old stone pyramids. Party boats glide through Aztec-built canals. I wander past colossal carved heads and intricate jade masks at the National Anthropological Museum, a mind-blowing collection of Mexican treasures. Next door at Chapultepec Park, families float at the lake in paddleboats and kids run down the pathways with balloons. Hawkers yell out their wares: red wrestling masks, light-up play swords, and pink cotton candy. One of the greatest archaeological sites on the planet rests in the sunshine just outside of Mexico City. The ancient city of Teotihuacan should a household name. Home to the thirdlargest pyramid ever built, Teotihuacan was established two thousand years ago by a people whose name is lost to history. We don’t even know what they called their city. Hundreds of years after it was abandoned, the mighty Aztecs named it Teotihuacan, City of the Gods, because they imagined that only gods could build such a place. Stepped pyramids tower over its enormous main avenue, which runs for over two miles. Climb 248 steps to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun, and you are rewarded with magnificent views, and you can feel the lingering power of the mysterious people who once made this their home. Teotihuacan was the first of nine ancient cities I explored, each revealing a new facet of Mesoamerica. We all know about the Aztec and Maya, but Mexico’s ancient cultural tapestry 22

was much more diverse than that. Toltec, Olmec, Zapotec, Mixtec, Tarascan, and Veracruz peoples have all left their marks on the land and contributed to Mexico’s distinctly rich heritage.

In Mitla, the Zapotecs designed jigsaw puzzle-like walls with thousands of little pieces to withstand the region’s frequent earthquakes. Palenque’s steamy-hot jungle ruins revealed the power of Great King Pakal through delicate artwork and monumental architecture. And Chichen Itza? The “World Wonder” Maya city was crowded yet endlessly impressive – and totally Instagrammable. Professional models posed in front of the biggest pyramid, their backs to the cameras and long dresses and hair flowing behind. It’s so nice that the ancient Maya provided such shareworthy backgrounds for our selfies. My trip through southern Mexico ended predictably at the beaches of Playa del Carmen and Cancun. The stunning blues of the Caribbean Sea in Cancun literally took my breath away, and my beach resort was a welcome change after three weeks of budget hotels. But I felt like I was in a capsule there, a sanitized and processed version of Mexico far removed from the rest of my experiences elsewhere in the country. I talked to resort guests who returned here to the coast time and time again but had never ventured any further in. “Isn’t it dangerous?” one sunbather asked me. “How can you travel on your own?” I explained that the regions of Mexico that I had been traveling in were ranked as “Security Level 2” by the U.S. State Department. This is the same security level as Great Britain, Italy, and France. Mexico City, Oaxaca, Campeche, Chiapas, and the Yucatan are all far from the border troubles that make the news here in the States. Is it 100% safe? No. Is it 100% comfortable? No. The roads in Chiapas are studded with speedbumps, and the struggle of Montezuma’s revenge is definitely real. But sometimes you have to give up a little comfort for the sake of adventure. And adventure is waiting for you in Mexico. Photos by Shilo Urban

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