January 2010
Editor’s Corner 3
The Past in Perspective As the year draws to a close, it’s typically a time when most of us spring clean our closets and houses—throwing away accumulated clutter to make room for the New. I undertook this sacred ritual on several days this month. Yet as I did so, I wondered how many of us take the time to spring clean our souls? We need to do it on a daily basis to take stock of all the accumulated resentments, hurts, and grievances that block our vision and keep us stunted… All our lives we are conditioned to remain bonsai plants little realising that we have the potential to soar skywards… beyond the stars…. It seems to me that only humans have this rather annoying trait of dwelling in the past; of clinging on to the past like barnacles on a rock. In doing so we forget that all life is essentially in the here and now. In fact the concept of linear time is a human invention. In the ultimate sense there is only timelessness…. Everything just IS. Yet I find it paradoxical that given our obsession with the past, when it comes to preserving and honouring our heritage, we seem to be almost disconnected with the past. We see it in the numerous acts of vandalism and graffiti being scrawled across ancient monuments across the country. Where is our veneration of the past? This is why our cover story on Kadambavanam, on preserving and revitalising the past, is especially significant. Chitra Ganapathy and M. Ganapathy, spearhead a movement to showcase and celebrate Tamil culture and heritage, are catalysts in initiatives to preserve the glory of heritage in a contemporary context. As they told Marie Laure Bonifasi, “The idea was to take the visitor to a small typical village where they would not have gone otherwise,” says Chitra. “People should know what Tamil Nadu is…or should be.” We thank readers for their supportive and critical feedback on the first issue of TOM. In a sense for the team at TOM, every issue is about learning from the past and yet being free from its stranglehold… to have a sense of the past in perspective. Our cover story seemed perfectly timed for such thematic musings. TOM wishes readers a wonderful 2010! Nandini Murali
We welcome readers’ reactions to the magazine. Please send your comments to editor@timesofmadurai.org
Times of Madurai
4 Cover Story
Kadambavanam: Traditionally Yours Marie-Laure Bonifassi reports on her visit to Kadambavanam where she experienced a slice of life of Tamil culture and heritage. The experience, she says, convinced her that the India she dreamt of as a little girl has not disappeared, overwhelmed by modern values and a Western way of life.
“We were hesitating about this project because we are not rich people. But a friend once said to me, ‘When you have such doubts about your passion, you just jump in, and God will help you,” says cultural activist Chitra Ganapathy, one of the key visionaries behind Kadambavanam, a heritage resort near Natham, a village 20 kms from Madurai.
Far From the Madding Crowd After a one-hour travel from Madurai, I arrived in what seemed to be right in the middle of nowhere. A sea of green stretched to the horizon, scalloped by fields, hills, and trees. I could already take a whiff of a pure air and the place was so quiet and peaceful that I wondered if any Indian could live happily here, away from the commotion of Indian cities. The only sound was the crunch of my feet on the reddish soil and a slight breeze. This was not the country I had been living in for the past four months and this new facet of India—which ironically is the oldest one—appealed most to me. Kadambavanam looked like some millionaire’s secondary residence in some exotic and lost paradise. From the entrance I could only see the red brick roofs and the clean huge gardens, as well as the incredible view of the hills. The architecture was simple and tasteful. Everything was perfectly clean, and calm. Apart from the main building (a huge stage), some huts had been built to have lunch and dinner, with thick wood tables and lamps that resembled traditional kerosene lamps: everything had a rustic charm stamped on it. I noticed the bathrooms, which, unlike many Indian places, combine both local and Western toilets and were spotless. The big building, the food court and the small temple garden formed the cultural centre.
A Passion for Tradition Kadambavanam is the brain child of Madurai-based Tamil husband and wife duo, M. Ganapathy and Chitra Ganapathy. Kadambavanam is the expression of the couple’s passion to preserve, revitalise and show case the rapidly eroded culturally rich Tamil culture, despite the ravages of time and modernisation. Even the choice of the name is appropriate. According to legend, Madurai was once a forest of hard redwood timber (Tamil: kadamba –hardwood timber; vanam – forest) before it gave way to the ancient city of Madurai. M. Ganapathy is a well known architect and interior designer who has been working all over Tamil Nadu since twenty years. Chitra, the woman who shares his life and his passion, has a specialisation in cost accounting and financial management, and is also trained in classical dance and music.
A Team with a Dream Chitra and Ganapathy are supported by an active and involved team, consisting of well informed people such as Prof. Sulaiman, former Deputy Director,Department of Tamil Culture and Arts of Tamilnadu government and now professor of archeology ; M. Vasanthamani (Ganapathy’s mother), avid artist and excelent cook ; Kalaimamani Dr Sarada Nambi Aarooran (Chitra’s mother), renowned Tamil scholar ; Dr. Venkatraman, former Professor of Art History, MK University ; and Bala Ramasubramaniam, traditional food researcher ; are part of the initiative. Ganapathy and Chitra, however, never wanted to be associated with any company, because they believe a partner would just view the project in a commercial way.
January 2010
Cover Story 5
“I don’t pretend not to care about money,” adds the practical Ganapathi. But this is certainly not the aim of the project, what’s important to us is not to lose the treasures of our culture.” The staff is now composed of 46 members, and the cultural shows take place only during week ends and special days, as construction is still underway. Travel agencies and tourism organisations often call to inform the organisers that a busload of tourists would be visiting ; in which case the shows are held just for them. These are the so-called “special days”. It has to work this way until people come individually or in families, and during the whole week. Poikal Kudhirai Aattam, a popular Tamil folk Dance
Love at First Sight A few years ago Ganapathy fell in love with the place that would become Kadambavanam. He bought the wild field after spending days convincing his wife. “My husband is a place romantic!” exclaims Chitra. Kadambavanam was an idea that was gestating for a long time. According to the couple, it just did not emerge suddenly one day. They toyed with the idea of a unique place to enshrine Tamil culture and heritage. Construction began in November 2007. Today Kadambavanam, through its different departments such as the ethnic resort, cultural centre and the ethnic eatery offers a comprehensive experience of Tamil culture and tradition. Through arts and crafts, spiritual practices, organised meals, rural games and Tamil literature, Ganapathy, Chitra and their talented team offer daily cultural activities to both entertain and educate foreigners and local people.
work in architecture is, as well, choosing an artistic job and life.According to him, architecture allows you to see life from different angles, from different points of view. It is an other way to experience art. “Architecture, sculpture, paintings are another aspect of art. I am in performing arts, he’s in visual arts” Chitra sums up.
A Window to Tamil Tradition The first activity was the ethnic resort that enables visitors experience a slice of life of traditional and rustic Tamilian lifestyle. The ethnic resort also features a scenic Unavagam (eatery) elevation 100 feet above the site abutting a hillock, offering a fabulous view of the surrounding greenery. It is a semi open multi level multi cuisine eatery, with customised dining areas for different sizes of groups with a few romantic corners as well.
Ganapathy and Chitra have both felt this passion for culture quite early. Chitra has had formal training in music and classical dance from early childhood ; thanks to her artistically inclined mother, who was interested in performing arts. Chitra’s father is the grandson of the famous Tamil scholar Marai Malai Adigalar, founder of the Pure Tamil Movement. Ganapathy says that the fact he chose to study and
A Slice of the Past
But Ganapathy and Chitra had indeed greater ambitions for Kadambavanam and the first part of the project was to create guest houses in the vicinity, the “ethnic resort”. The place is still under construction but expected to be ready within a month. The guests would have the privilege of big size rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, a swimming pool and an unrestricted view—all for Rs. 3400 per night per person. Some rooms have already been booked.
6 Cover Story
Times of Madurai
The hotel complex would give access to the cultural centre and provide guests with a peaceful environment. Most important, they would experience the traditional and rustic Tamilian lifestyle. “The idea was to take the visitor to a small typical village where they would not have gone otherwise,” says Chitra. “People should know what Tamil Nadu is…or should be.”
Reinventing Tamil Tradition The cultural centre that opened in August 2009 offers an evening of info-tainment for all ages through a bouquet of activities that reflect different facets of Tamil culture. The idea of a cultural centre emerged because an important part of the Tamilian way of living is their performing arts. Besides it would not have been economically viable to pay the artistes only to perform for a select group of people. Hence the team decided to make a separate centre, and thus create a larger complex open to anyone staying in Madurai. It took Chitra and Ganapathy four years to convince people to sell their lands. “That was a real tough job because none of them were in the mood to sell!” recalls Chitra.
A flute performance
food is never the same on any two days. “We want people to experience new facets of Tamil culture each time they come. It has to be dynamic,” says Ganapathy. Therefore, according to the day of your visit, you might attend different traditional shows such as dance and music that begin with the clarion call of the traditional murasu (an ancient drum used to call the attention of people to important announcements) from 5 pm, spend time wandering in the crafts bazaar and watching craftsmen make their products in the traditional way, or go and see the astrologer to glimpse what the future has in store for you, experience Tamil martial arts or rustic puppetry shows, or even see and participate to traditional games such as kittipul, pandi (hopscotch), golli gundu (marbles), and pallankuzhi. V.L. Visakh, Resort Coordinator, clearly loves his job. It is his first one, as he just passed out of college with a Masters in tourism management. While he showed me around, it appeared as if he were seeing each place for the first time with me, and enjoying it so much. His complete identification with the project made me wonder if the success of any effort rested on both skill and passion.
Oyilattam by Chakkarathalvar Group
Chitra and Ganapathy want to fight against this big wave of globalisation which favours some cultures amongst others and make the new generation forget about their past and traditions. “Maybe we should work on the traditional Tamil food packaging, so that they stop eating hamburgers instead!” wonders Chitra.
Expect the Unexpected At Kadambavanam, you can expect something different everyday. In fact you can be sure that even the activities and
Transported to the Past The cultural show began after 6 pm. It was divided into three parts: traditional Tamil flute music, and dance performances by young girls and men. The outfits and the choreography were amazing. I was instantly transported to an enchanting Oriental atmosphere of old times.
A Memorable Encounter The final entertainment before dinner was the Shadow Puppet show. This ancient form of storytelling consists of contorted puppets moving behind an illuminated white screen. The audience can see the bright colours, the movements,
January 2010
Cover Story 7
School children playing traditional Pallanguli game
and listen to the speech and the music. I had met the shadow puppetry artistes before the show and I think this encounter was the most memorable part of the evening. Muthu Laxmana Rao and his three sons Muthu Kumar, Ram Kumar, and Kali Muthu are the last generation to do such shows in Tamil Nadu. They are proud and faithful to this family heritage. They are unwilling to disclose to people how these puppets were made; for it is a closely guarded family secret. They used 100-year-old puppets made of animal skins such as goats and cows, and the scripts are about ancient epic tales. The family has been practising this folk art since several generations. The present generation seems determined to persist with it despite the pressures of modernisation and lucrative jobs.
Guardians of a Vanishing Tradition Now that the TV and the films are so common, Muthu Rao’s family lacks audience for this very ancient form of entertainment. Hence the family is forced to supplement their income with other kinds of show, such as dancing. This family of nomad artistes will stay in my memory for a long time. I was touched to see the great artistes yet so miserable, ready to go through poverty and starvation for they beloved art, ready to sacrifice themselves for the sake of art and for what they love and respect.
A True Artiste Muthu Rao is a true artiste, one who is in love with each of his puppets, who gives his soul to each word of his speech.
He reminded me of the old Jepetto in the Walt Disney cartoon Pinocchio and I was touched by his sensitivity and his artistic soul. According to Rao, he is happy to work in Kadambavanam, as it allows his art to survive, but also gives him the esteem and the respect due to an artiste. I hadn’t really expected anything particular before visiting Kadambavanam, but I have certainly been surprised by what I experienced there. Beyond all my expectations, I have been enchanted by the place and the people of Kadambavanam, by a peculiar atmosphere that takes you back in time, to another India, which can’t fail to seduce you.
Cultural Activism Kadambavanam was a fitting finale to my Indian sojourn. It convinced me that the India I used to dream of as a little girl has not disappeared, overwhelmed by modern values and a Western way of life. The Kadambavanam project has shown that Cultural activists such as Chitra and Ganapathi are catalysts in humanity’s initiatives to preserve the glory of heritage in a contemporary context. That is humanity’s legacy to the succeeding generations.
Marie-Laure Bonifassi, Paris, France
Times of Madurai
8 Cover Story
P. Ganapathy and Chitra Ganapathy: A Roots Journey Marie-Laure Bonifassi
chats with the husband and wife duo M. Ganapathy and Chitra Ganapathy, the nucleus of Kadambavanam. M. Ganapathy, a well known Madurai-based architect and interior designer; and Chitra Ganapathy, a cost accountant with a specialisation in financial management, acknowledge that desite the innumberable initial hiccoughs and obstacles, their passion for art and cultural heritage, makes it all meaningful. Excerpts from an interview with the cultural activists.
What was the inspiration for Kadambavanam? We had the place with us. It was picturesque and totally unspoilt. We wanted to something different, to show our culture. We thought about it from 2004 and the whole idea took shape over three to four years. We travelled a lot in Europe, and South East Asia, and we saw a lot of heritage places. And there; with very little culture they make a big show , impress the tourist and, most important, they market it nicely. So we thought that we have so much, and it’s not being marketed properly. Tourists who come to Madurai just go around temples but they don’t get a chance to experience our culture on a regular basis. So this idea of an ethnic resort grew in us.
What were the some of the difficulties you encountered? The first place we had bought was quite small, and we had to buy more hectares to start the project. So the main difficulty was to convince the neighborhood to sell their lands. It took us four years. We had to explain to them that it was to build a cultural centre, and that we could be trusted. Tough job!
How is your project linked with the government? We have recently been communicating with the tourism department, and they have promised to help us with both marketing promotion (they gave us a free stand at this big exhibition in London which is the most important tourism event). The financial challenges are immediate and pressing. Indeed money soon appeared as a very big issue. No bank wanted to invest in such a new project as it has no precedent to be sure of its viability and profitability. Before we got the help from the tourism department, we had to
sell some of our personal property in order to pay for the extra hectares needed for the centre. We took a huge loan and under estimated the budget for such a project. Our debts are considerable and we won’t make clear profits before the ten next years.
Chitra speaks about the event to the audience
What are the challenges you faced and continue to face in setting up this project and how do you address them? The main challenges are logistics and construction. Construction costs are expensive and the problem is that the workers include the travel in their working time and this makes us lose about four hours a day and a lot of money. So we decided to use the local people to work on the construction, so that traveling would not be a problem. But the main business of the people in the village is agriculture. They know nothing about construction and thus the labour force was not prepared for such a job. What the former workers could do in a day, they would spend two days on it. This, also, is a loss of time and money. Then comes electricity and water. There was no electricity at all in the whole area when we started to build the complex. Nothing! We had to start everything from point zero! And as far as water is concerned, the quality of the soil there is poor and difficult to work on, so we could not dig as we wished and, again, lost time and money. I have to admit we had a lot of very costly learning experiences.
January 2010 Another challenge was to keep the local people happy. We had to face a petition from the neighborhood once and this is really something we are trying to avoid. Last but not least, attracting people is something very difficult. Publicity does not work. Tourists are quite easily attracted but local people are not really interested. Tamilians are now able to see such shows on TV everyday! We don’t have enough visitors to sustain the project, that’s why we are working on attracting people from different levels such as corporates with business clientele from abroad.
How did you manage to build such a team? The Kadambavanam team consists of people we met before and worked with, on various other projects. Madurai is a small town, everyone knows what you do, and we were in touch with these persons, and so they decided to contribute to the project. Apart from these business relations, relatives and friends had been ‘seduced’ and are today helpful and dedicated to the project.
What would be your message to each visitor before they leave the place?
The important thing to understand is that we are not trying to show people that our culture is superior. We just want to show things. People have TV now but we want to give them a better exposure to such a rich culture, to experiencing it more deeply. We want people not only to be aware but also to understand our culture.
How many visitors do you have every year? Is the number increasing? We based this project on statistics: we knew 100 visitors come and visit temples in Madurai during the tourist season, and this would be the target to reach. Unfortunately publicity is not good and we understood this even on the first day and we need 60 to assure the project’s survival. That is a lot of pressure.
According to you it is important to create a place where the Tamil culture is intact. Does that mean you feel it is vanishing everywhere else? We do. And we built this centre mostly for our own people, who are too far from our culture nowadays. Kids drink Coke and eat pizzas. They have no idea what traditional food their parents have tastes like! They play cricket but have no idea what we and the generations before us used to play with! We don’t want the treasures of our culture to be lost. We want to avoid the religious aspect, and make culture a matter of values and entertainment, that’s the point. We really insist on the secular note in our project. You see, on the frescoes of the theatre, there are many stories, but it is never question of gods. It is important not to amalgamate religion and
Cover Story 9 values. Hinduism is, of course, part of our culture, but it has become a way of life.
How is Kadambavanam different from Dakshin Chitra in Chennai? First I’d like to say that we had this idea from nothing but our minds. We were not thinking “let’s do something like …” we did not try to copy anyone or anything. When we talked about it around us, people used to react by comparing it to projects such as Dakshin Chitra, asking, “Oh, just like …?” It is of course undeniable that there is a parallel to draw and that many similarities exist between such projects. The idea of preserving the culture and make people closer to it is our leitmotiv, but the format is different. Other places try to capture the “feel good” factor of their visitors, they try to involve them, to make them participate, and have fun. We are more based on the intellect of our visitors, it is infotainment that we do. In a way, we could say they are the hardware, we are the software. They are like museums; we, on the other hand, are not building something that people could just come and see, such as an authentic infrastructure, we just want them to hear the story; beyond seeing, understanding.
Do you have children? What are their interests and contribution to your adventure? (Laugh) Well, we have two sons. They are not as passionate about Kadambavanam as we are. Of course, they are from another generation. They both chose architecture studies –that’s because of their father! - And even if they are very bad at Tamil language (smile), it is still artistic to do such studies. They are not motivated 100 percent in what we do and we don’t want to push them into our own plans and passions, but we want them to care about their culture and not to forget it. Architecture is a good basis for them to look at each way of life from a different perspective, and that is a good thing.
How supportive will the project be towards artisans? We will surely support them as soon as we make profits. We are sustaining all our artists and we are actually planning to build an art school.
Who are the kind of people/tourists who visit this place? How did they hear about it? Everyone. It is very diverse. Every age, visitors from abroad and from North India. But, again, the publicity is not so good. Marie-Laure Bonifassi, Paris, France
Times of Madurai
10 People
To Serve with Love Poverty was a childhood companion for S. Ramu. Yet that’s what motivated the 75-year-old Madurai-based small hotelier, who runs the cheapest hotel in the country, to dedicate himself to provide people in the low income group with low cost yet tasty meals for as little as Rs.6! he does.
Marie Laure Bonifassi in a chat with Ramu finds out why he does what
A Duty to Help Others S. Ramu, 75, belongs to a very poor family in rural south Tamil Nadu. He, however, did not resign himself to his fate or blame people and circumstances. Instead even as a child he wished to do something to better the lives of many others like him. When he found out he couldn’t feed his own family the way he had wished, he did not surrender. Full of hope and ambitions, he decided that poor people like him needed to be helped and cared for.
4 p.m. everyday. The food consist of typical South Indian fare: rice, sambhar and vegetables. Ramu’s wife does the cooking herself and is also helped by the cook he found when he first arrived in the city He buys the rice in wholesale shops and serves the same quality of food as in other restaurants. His daily expenses amount to Rs. 1000 plus the salaries of the employees whom he pays Rs. 150 on a daily basis.
Service, not Profit Ramu’s business operates on a shoe string budget. When everyone in the family (including him) has received their income, there is hardly any money left. The business does not make profits. And that, Ramu insists, “It is not the purpose of my work.” He just wants to help poor people and feed his own family.
Mr. Ramu, owner of the cheapest restaurant in India
On an average, three hundred people eat at his restaurant every month. Ironically Ramu has no ambition to get a bigger place or to establish similar restaurants in other cities, because of financial constraints. He is not willing to ask the government for help, but he would be glad if politicians are sensitive and responsive to his work. Indeed, it is important that these small businesses are supported by the local governments as they are a great help to the people and contribute to the health and well being of the population. Although Ramu dislikes involvement in politics, in a way, through his lifetime of commitment to a social cause, he is a spokesperson for the welfare of people.
In 1964 Ramu moved to Madurai and started his business—providing meals to the poor of the city for only Rs. 2! He was then just 30 years old, exactly the same age as his son today.
“I don’t want to ask the government directly ” he says, with a glint of dignity in his circled eyes. He wants his children to take up the family business, and continue his social commitment.
“If I had been rich, I would have done exactly the same thing. Helping the have-nots is a duty,” he says with conviction. His restaurant became famous, and is reportedly, the cheapest in the country. Shortly thereafter his thriving business got publicity in the local newspapers and he began to receive financial support from NGOs, religious and charitable institutions, and rich Indian businessmen. He became for many the “blessing father” of the city.
Today the cost of the meals has increased since 1964 and is priced at Rs. 6. If someone, however, only has Rs. 3, Ramu still provides this person a meal. His business is based on trust and help. Nothing more. Whenever donations are made to the restaurant, Ramu provides food free of charge for everyone for a day. S. Ramu smiles at my surprise and admiration. All this seems so natural to him. He sums up his determination in a Tamil quote, “Free food is the best charity amongst others.” Bon apétit! (Happy eating!)
The people working in the restaurant are his relatives, his wife and children, who serve meals from 6. 30 a.m. until
Marie Laure Bonifassi, Paris, France
January 2010
Weekend Wander 11
Ponderings in the Pyramids The best way to experience the Spirit of the Pyramids of Egypt is to go there alone; not as part of a gaggle of noisy tourists. Modernisation has eroded not only the desert sands that once surrounded the ancient monuments but also its sense of history, says
Daniel Stowischek
When you think of Egypt, you probably first think of the pyramids of Giza. You think of some of the oldest manmade buildings, humongous and standing still in the desert for some thousands of years. And when you decide to visit them, you hope to feel the spirit radiated by the pyramids
Overrun by tourists: The pyramids of Giza
and their surrounding. You imagine standing right in front of them, just listening to the desert wind and being fascinated… .
Touristy Nuisances
Of Traffic Jams and Noise Pollution The next trial came, when I went inside the Great Pyramid. When I went down the staircase, I had to stop every ten seconds, as a group of tourists was going upwards. Actually it’s normal to find many people at a tourist spot as famous as this, but the problem here was that many of these people were, to put it mildly, not very agile and did not know that it would require some endurance to get to the chamber and even more to get back. The tunnel is narrow and besides very warm inside. So when I finally reached the chamber, it was almost hot and humid and loud again, reminding me more of a bar than a thousands-of-years-old tomb! Actually I thought of getting out of there as fast as possible, but that’s not so easy when you have 15 Japanese tourists right in front of you, at least eight of them definitely overweight. Nevertheless it’s worth going there! The pyramids of Giza are the biggest and most famous pyramids in the world, so it’s a great experience to see them through your own eyes. But what you can’t feel there is the spirit of the past, when they were just surrounded by the desert. You simply cannot enjoy looking at them without being disturbed by some noise of the present.
The Step Pyramid of Saqqarah But when you really visit them, you might get very disappointed. Not of the pyramids themselves, for they are truly fascinating, no doubt. But the surroundings might not be what you expected. That’s because the pyramids are not standing in the desert anymore. They became a part of Cairo due to the city’s ongoing expansion. Actually it seems as if the pyramids would have been built right there because for Cairo tourists it’s an easy 20-minutes travel from the city-centre by taxi. Indeed there are thousands of tourists a day, big groups from Asia and Europe, school classes from all over Egypt, and, last but not least, annoying camel drivers. I couldn’t stand there just by myself and enjoy the atmosphere without someone standing next to me, trying to persuade me to buy some postcards or a ride on a camel. On one hand I was used to it since I’ve been traveling in Egypt for a few weeks already.But on the other hand it really jars when you’re about to feel the spirit of this historical site and there’s always someone talking to you.
As that was it what I was looking for, I just went down further south, to the origins of pyramids. Located 25 kilometers south of Cairo, near the Ancient Egyptian capital Memphis, is the oldest still existing building of the world, the step pyramid of Saqqarah. The pyramid was built approximately 2650 B.C. by Pharaoh Djoser, the best known Pharaoh of the third dynasty of Egypt. Although it is not possible to go inside the pyramid, I walked around on the whole burial area, which covers around 7 km by 1.5 km, without meeting any big tourist groups or camel divers. And when I went a bit further on I found myself right in the desert. Through dust clouds I saw some other pyramids, located in the middle of nowhere, as it seemed. What a difference from Giza! But even then there were too many people for my taste. As I was searching for a different kind of experience I started for the Red pyramid near Dahshur, just 20 kilometres from Saqqarah. I went there by taxi, since it was not accessible
Times of Madurai
12 Weekend Wander
by bus. I noticed that it was getting more and more lonesome. Finally we were there. I jumped out of the car and I knew instantly that I had found what I was looking for! I was completely alone, except for the taxi driver and the guy at the entrance of the pyramid.
Sounds of Silence First I walked around it. The third largest Egyptian pyramid (105 metres high, 220 metres of length each side) is named because of the light crimson hue of its exposed granite surface. It was built by Pharao Sneferu, who reigned from around 2613 BC to 2589 BC. From a distance I could see the bent pyramid. But not a soul out there! No tourists, no camel divers, no post card sellers or other annoying people. And therefore no noise, just the desert wind blowing into my ears. That was even much better than I entrance I first had to climb up approximately 50 meters on the outside wall. Thank God, I’m free from giddiness! Inside I walked through a tunnel, which is 62 metres long, but just 91 cm high and 123 cm wide. But that was fine with me as it was much cooler there than inside the Great Pyramid. Furthermore I
didn’t have to wait for anyone taking a break or passing by.
A Strange Communion Finally I reached the chamber. There was nothing much to see. Yet the consciousness that I was standing in the middle of one of the oldest and biggest pyramids and there was no one but me that overwhelmed me. I felt a kind of enthusiasm that I didn’t know before. And it really came to my mind how it would be if this pyramid that was standing here for thousands of years now would break down right now. Then I would have my own pyramid as a grave! Well, these are thoughts that probably just come to your mind when you’re traveling alone and they might scare you a bit. But what you get for it is worth it, because this will be one of the most exciting experiences of your life. There are a lot of things in life which you should share with many others. But I, however, prefer to visit the pyramids all by myself to enjoy the solitude and silence! Daniel Stowischek, Munich, Germany
QUOTES It is not fair to ask to others what you are unwilling to do yourself Eleanor Roosevelt
Happiness is not something you experience, it’s something you remember. Oscar Levant
Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do. Johann von Goethe
If we could see the miracle of a single flower clearly, our whole life would change. Buddha
One word frees us of all the weight and pain of life; that word is love. Sophocles
Life’s challenges are not supposed to paralyze you, they are supposed to help you to discover who you are. Bernice Johnson Reagon
January 2010
East Meets West 13
My Best Christmas Gift Alina Emrich decides to experience India, not as a tourist in a hurry but as a citizen of the world eager for a di-
rect experience of the culture and the people of this fascinating country. From being at home with the bumpy roads, Indian English, tropical fruits, mosquito menace, the curious stares of people, the colour and gaiety of Madurai, it’s been a strange homecoming as she gets ready to celebrate a Tropical Christmas! There it was. At last. The day where I finally realised my dream. A dream that shaped and grew in my mind during so many school lessons and for which I had waited for so long: a one way ticket to India! Of course I intended to tasty fruits as papayas, come back to Germany. bananas and pineapple But just the idea of book(unfortunately no mangos ing a one-way-flight, not yet!) and the sunshine and exactly knowing when warmth, which are so rare I’d come back and the in Germany. Especially prospect of an extended now during winter, where stay in the country and temperatures in Germany not just a tourist in a hurry touch minus degrees. gave me a great feelHence for me instead ing of freedom. Through of a “White Christmas” my positive and intense because of which many “Asia-experiences” in Sri people become depresAlina enjoying the mountaintop of Pasumalai Lanka and excited reports sive, the weather is grey from other travelers to India I yearned for a and rainy, and I’m glad to be direct experience the culture and people of this fascinatin India. Having a temperature around 30 degrees and being country. A seven-hour flight from Germany to India and ing able to travel to the beaches in different parts of Tamil two domestic flights later, which gave me an idea about the Nadu in just a few hours, is the best Christmas present I can huge dimension of the country, I arrived at the small airport imagine. of the famous Temple city, Madurai.
A Homecoming of Sorts My arrival in India felt more like the return to a second home rather than a step into a new period of life in a country that seemed to be a completely different world. Stepping out of the plane I already began to enjoy the sweet, spicy smell and the humidity of India. When I left the airport I was already used to several familiar sights thanks to my earlier stint in Sri Lanka -- Broken roads populated by honking rickshaws, motorcycles, cars, buses, walkers, goats as well as cows and traffic— almost beyond imagination for a European in Germany.
Understanding Indian English During my work at the Frankfurt Book Fair in the summer of 2009, I was already acquainted with the heavily accented Indian English. Although I looked forward to the journalism placement in India, where I’d be able to communicate in English with locals, I was unsure of being able to understand their English. Now after a month, I can understand the people I’m working with much better and I am more used to their English and the pronunciation, which was difficult at the beginning.
A Tropical Christmas Yet there are several things about India that I enjoy everyday and seek such experiences consciously. These include its
A Colourful Tapestry I like Madurai with its impressive Meenakshi temple, the vegetable and flower markets and especially all these colourful cloth shops and bazaars. The life on the road and all these small shops, restaurants and factories are unusual for me, because in most cities in Germany people and families are very private and can rarely be seen outside. I’m surprised how many different and calm places in Madurai. I have been to many hills as Yanamalai and Pasumalai and enjoyed the panoramic views from the mountain tops.
No Monkey Business! For a lover of monkeys like me, India is just the perfect country to visit. When I was a child I dreamed of a monkey as a pet. Although some monkeys are really cheeky and always ready to rip something off, I love to watch them fight, eat or delouse each other. It’s wonderful; to see the social bonding among moneys: whole families roaming about freely yet staying together in social units, not unlike our families. Such sightings make me wish that I could take one with me to Germany.
Mosquito Menace Mosquitoes are one thing about India which I won’t miss at all. Its incredible how disturbing even one mosquito can be and how many hours of sleep they ripped me off. I wish they wouldn’t like my blood that much, not only because of the
Times of Madurai
14 East Meets West A Story for nearly Everything
I’m also impressed by all the stories Indians have for almost everything. There seems to be a story for nearly everything. If there’s a hill, people can definitely tell you a story about its creation and its relation to other hills nearby. Even though it is interesting and entertaining to listen to such creative stories, I sometimes had to laugh and wonder if people really believe in all these narrations, which are sometimes abstract and unrealistic.
Need for Social Equity Monkey Wisdom
bites but also their annoying sound. My new body lotion is called Odomos and I’m glad that I can buy it in a shop close to my accommodation, because I often need to fill up my reserves!
All Eyes on Me The stares and shouts of school children trying to start a conversation are amusing and their happiness on seeing us is lovely. Yet the brash views of some men can be exhausting. Women mostly give us a scan and then acknowledge us with a friendly smile. Even though you gradually get more used to the stares you receive on the roads it still feels strange to be watched by so many eyes irrespective of what you are doing.
To Throw or not to Throw? My parents and teachers in primary school have always insisted that I throw rubbish only into the dustbin and keep the environment clean. Hence I find it difficult to just throw anything anywhere. Even though I know that everyone is doing so, I am unable to follow the crowd.
A conspicuous aspect of India is the social inequity and the high number of the poor. Many people with injuries or disability sit on the roads and beg for money. Concerning the social development of India there are still very many things to do. For example, it is fundamental to have a social, governmental net which includes a health insurance not only for the rich or middle-class people but also for the poor.
Why Pigeonhole? Another thing which is absurd for me is the classification of people. Shouldn’t every person have the same rights and be treated the same way? I really wonder why a country such as India still can’t get past putting people into certain classes and treating people of “lower castes” with lesser dignity. It’s a shame that people of “the purest, upper classes” are able to call people of their own country who are born into “lower classes” “impure” and thereby deny them freedoms and privileges. Even though there has been significant leaps concerning woman’s rights in India, (you can see more and more women working in multinational firms) a lot more needs to be done to abolish violence and discrimination against women.
While I love the fragrance of the jasmine, the aroma of masala, chai and inExcited school children saying “hello” Bodily Noises cense sticks in India, the odour of effluents, urine and emissions are sometimes hard to endure. Another abhorrent aspect is the noises men make just everywhere at anytime. Men in India spit, burp, and pee whenever they feel like doing so. In Germany people burped during their lunch or dinner as a sign of “enjoyment” in the 15th century and today people they do so without drawing anyone’s attention.
Religion, a Way of Life Coming from a country where people usually think of religion during Christmas (even there they are more interested in having a big meal and getting presents than thinking about the religious aspect!) it’s fascinating to experience the religious customs of Indians in temples and as part of their the daily lives. In India everything is based on religion, and this aspect intrigues me.
A Photographer’s Paradise For a passionate photographer like me, India is a country with endless possibilities of wonderful shots. Breathtaking landscapes, simple street scenes which are so special for a foreigner like me, looming buildings next to painted Sadhus and beautiful women wearing colourful saris, there are just so many lovely things to take pictures of. I’m very glad that I took about 30 GB memory capacity for taking pictures and I look forward to discovering many hidden aspects of India through the lens of a photographer and traveler. Alina Emrich, Frankfurt, Germany
January 2010
Book Review 15
A Tale of Two States 2 States – The Story of my Marriage is an amusing and interesting read that offers a window to changing life styles and marriage patterns in contemporary India, says barriers that only divide and keep us apart
Alina Emrich, who feels that the book is
about moving beyond petty
Title: 2 States – The story of my marriage Author: Chetan Bhagat Publisher: Rupa & Co; New Delhi (2009) Genre: Memoir
Chetan Bhagat: An Insitant Hit
Chetan Bhagat, the Indian writer, popularly regarded as a youth icon, is the author of three blockbuster novels (Five Point Someone (2004), One Night @ the Call Center (2005) and The 3 Mistakes of My Life (2008)). His latest best seller, his fourth novel 2 States, was published in October this year.
Intimate, Chatty Style According to the New York Times Chetan Bhagat is the biggest selling English language novelist in India. Naturally I was excited to be reading the celebrity Indian author’s latest book about Indian marriage. 2 States was my first book by the author. The title didn’t appeal to me and I wondered if it would be a typical, tedious story about an Indian wedding. When I began to read, however, my doubts were blown away. The author’s informal style of writing in first person gives the feeling of being seated next to him and listening to some very private stories of a person who perfectly knows how to entertain the listener. While his detailed descriptions of certain situations make his stories sound realistic, the additions of his “thoughts” often made me laugh. The book is an easy and interesting read. The simple language and straightforward narration engages the reader from start to finish. I really have to admit that this book is one of the very few which I read very fast, because of its humour and friendly tone.
A Rocky Ride The title makes it obvious that the book is about a love story of two young people from two different states in India: Punjab and Tamil Nadu. 2 States tells the love story of Krish, a Punjabi boy; and Ananya, a Brahmin girl from Tamil Nadu, who decided to fight for their love and as a further step, to
unify their divided heritage through marriage. Instead of eloping as most couples do, they decide to take the bumpy uncertain path and try to convince their parents of their true love.
Love Blooms in the Canteen Like a typical love story everything starts in the college canteen, which could have been in Germany or any other country as well. Ananya and Krish’s love story begins in the IIM Ahmedabad canteen, where the rebellious, good looking Ananya from South India argues about the boring canteen food. Like every male student, Krish watches the beautiful girl and takes his chance to talk to her. As you read, you discover how the brainy Punjabi impresses the brains and beauty Tamil Brahmin from Chennai with his humour, and how private lessons in math can be a gateway to passionate romance.
Interstate Marriage: A Taboo While Ananya basically fights for her love from the North and the desire to make her parents happy with her marriage, Krish wants to make a statement with his love for a woman from another state and his unusual wedding. Needless to say he wants to marry the pretty Ananya, because he’s crazily in love with her and wants her to stay with him for the rest of his life. But he also wants to share his happiness with the world and tell the people of his country that it’s no crime to fall in love with a person from a different state.
A Different Love Story The book deals with the young couple’s struggle to shield their love from the stiff parental opposition they face as they try to convince their parents to accept their inter state marriage which is still seen as a taboo The writer’s skill as a compelling story teller is evident because despite a common theme, the story doesn’t end up as a typical, boring love story. The book tells of a successful love story of two people, whose love is put to the hardest test
Times of Madurai
16 Book Review Land of Diversities
Beyond Superficial Barriers
As a European girl I wonder why a North Indian from Delhi feels so different about the South of India, even though it is the same country. It made me aware that people in the different states in India speak different languages, eat different kinds of food and follow different customs. In spite of everything it seems kind of strange to me that a North Indian Krish encounters problems like the difficulty in pronouncing South Indian names like I do. Krish’s arrival in Chennai reminds me of my first week in India and my daily struggle to pronounce the name of Indian cities correctly.
Throughout the book Chetan Bhagat conveys the message that we need to move beyond superficial differences such as language and customs because what ultimately matters in marriage is the compatibility of the partners.
Freedoms Curbed In my country most students try to move out from home after school to escape parental control, create a flat share with friends, or study in a different city. In fact many parents even want their children to become independent and experience the ups and downs of life. I found it strange that adult students like Krish are still controlled by “landlords” and not allowed to drink or bring girlfriends to their dorms. I realised the freedom we have in Europe and I’m happy for that.
As a non Indian, I never really understood this “tradition” in India that disapproves of inter state or inter caste marriages. In my eyes every human being is made the same way, so I see no reason why she/he shouldn’t be allowed to feel something for a person from another part of the country. Although even in Germany where I live, couples go through similar struggles, it is nowhere in comparison with what young couples who opt for unconventional marriages face in India. Besides the fact that the book is very easy to read another reason I like it is because it helped me to understand some differences between North and South Indian cultures. I definitely recommend this book to foreigners like me who are interested in changing life styles in contemporary India. The light, frothy book is an entertaining, amusing read and comes wrapped with several insights. Alina Emrich, Frankfurt, Germany
Readers’ Respond… TOM is a new way to know about Madurai through the eyes and ears of visiting volunteers. The magazine is refreshing in its approach and opens our eyes to the dedicated work done by organisations like Mazhalai Illam adoption centre and brings out the human aspects of the story in finding a home for Madhuvanthi. ‘Thank you India ‘captures the perception of a visiting volunteer with humor and insight and the warmth the writer has for this country and people. The magazine packs a lot of punch in just 23 pages. The font size could be a little bigger to facilitate better reading. I wish TOM all the best in its march ahead
Dr AS Dodd, Medical Superintendent, Grace Kennett Foundation Hospital, Madurai The editorial is good and well written. The article about adoption and Grace Kennett is good. There could be some tips for people who want to adopt. The writer’s impressions in ‘Thank You, India’ are negative although she tries to end on a positive note. Her views on Indian women are not very true though there is some truth. This is a global issue. The photos are not clear you should use good JPEG files. There could be a humour page too. All the best for the next issue!
Dr. P. Ramamoorthi, theatre activist and poet Dr. S. Aravind, Director, Aravind Managed Eye Care Services AMECS, Madurai Congratulations on your awesome work. The reporting truly reflects our organisational culture and climate. The articles ranging from local news to our old hero Gregory Peck provide real variety. This is cross cultural journalism at its best. It is good to have a copy of TOM in every educational institution.
The write up about Grace Kennett Hospital was simply wonderful. The magazine has covered so many social aspects which are of great interest to us as a growing social work institute. There are other cultural aspects covered in the magazine which are awe inspiring.
Anita Rosalind, Lecturer in Social Work, Dept of Social Work, Madurai Institute of Social Sciences
January 2010
Film Review 17
An Unsung Hero Daniel Stowischek, a fan of historical films, argues that the unusual combination of a historical and action film in the Indian biopic Pazhasi Raja, makes it confusing for foreign viewers who expect historical accuracy and realism Title: Pazhasi Raja Language: Tamil Cast: Mammooty, Sarath Kumar, Thilakan, Nedumudi Venu, Suman, Padma Priya, Kanika Genre: Biopic
Pazhasi Raja is a historical film about the great Indian warrior, who
Pazhasi Raja
fought against the British in Kerala in the late 18th century. But at the same time it is also a great action film. This synchronism can be confusing for viewers from foreign countries.
An Unknown Hero To be honest, I’ve never heard of Pazhasi Raja before last week. I’m a German and when I think of Indian resistance against the British, I always think of Mahatma Gandhi first and then nothing. But actually there was a famous resistance fighter 150 years earlier, named Pazhasi Raja, and I saw the recently released movie about his life. A Matter of Honour So what’s the plot? Pazhasi Raja, a prince from the royal dynasty of Kottayam in the late 18th century, is a strong man and renowned warrior, who trains his people, mostly tribals, in fighting against British soldiers. Indeed the British are no match to the agility, presence of mind and battle tactics of the hardy tribals. Once they even capture a British Lieutenant and his wife, but they treat them like guests and set them free. As a result the Royal soldiers try to catch Pazhasi Raja, but he opposes by using a lash, brought from his wife on a tray. Nevertheless the British strike back harder and hang some of Pazhasi Raja’s best men. Besides even a peace pact between the two parties doesn’t work. After his chief lieutenant Edachena Kunkan was killed, Pazhasi Raja rides alone to the British General to stab him first and then hang him. The next day he bids farewell to his wife and goes to the final combat. I don’t want to reveal the ending, but the climax is the stuff of honour and martyrdom.
Fictionalized History or Historical Fiction? Now what did I as a German feel when I was watching the movie? Well, first it has to be said that this is a historical movie, and Germans are fond of historical movies. Der Untergang (2005), a German movie about the last days of Adolf Hitler, won both critical and popular acclaim and there are many others in the genre. So for me it’s quite interesting to see how historical movies are made in other countries. So what did I expect and what did I get? Well, in Germany you place value on precision when making a historical movie. Everything that happened in Der Untergang was studied scientifically. You wouldn’t make a movie about a real hero (or a negative hero like Hitler) with unrealistic scenes in it. And I guess that is what irritated me most about Pazhasi Raja. On one hand it’s proven that he really lived and did great things for his tribe. On the other hand there are some unrealistic fight scenes in the movie, so that I tended towards non seriousness while watching the movie. For example, Pazhasi Raja defeats a couple of dozen British with his lash. In another instance, when he is coming to kill the British General, he conquers an unbelievable number of soldiers just with his sword. So this doesn’t seem very realistic to me. It reminds me more of a fictional character like James Bond than a historical figure who actually existed. Through the Culture Lens But this is just how a German would see it. Nevertheless it is a great drama and therefore a great movie. The film brilliantly highlights how the British narrow down on Pazhasi Raja as one by one his confidants were killed by the British soldiers and thereby draws the film towards a superb climax. The hero keeps on fighting until the very end for a safe and secure future for his people, with no compromise in dignity or values. In the end even the British have to honour his morale, and some of them seem to be genuinely remorseful. There are many theories about how Pazhasi Raja actually died. Hence in this uncertainty, if the ending as depicted in the movie were indeed fictional, would it have been much better than reality? Daniel Stowischek, Germany
Times of Madurai
18 Old is Gold
Following your Dream The most widely translated book in publishing history (67 languages), The Alchemist has acquired a cult status. A modern allegorical fable about following your dream, its magical combination of philosophy, spirituality, and wisdom, together with an engaging story telling technique has ensured that readers across the world and age groups are able to identify with Santiago, the central character. After all, like Santiago, don’t we all need someone to tell us to have faith in and follow our dreams? Title: The Alchemist Author: Paulo Coelho Language: English (Translation) Publisher: Harper SanFrancisco (1995) ‘It’s the possibility of having a dream come true that makes life interesting,’ muses the young Spanish shepherd, Santiago, the protagonist of Paul Coelho’s The Alchemist. And Santiago does have a dream, quite literally, one night as his sheep rest and he falls asleep in an abandoned church covered by an enormous sycamore tree. This reoccurring dream is to be his destiny: It’s a dream which leads him to the great Pyramids of Egypt. ‘If you come here you will find a hidden treasure,’ says a mysterious young girl who appears in his dream. Thus begins Coelho’s simple, quasireligious fable about following one’s dream. Journey as a Metaphor Set in the Spanish region of Andalusia, Santiago sets out upon a journey to reach the Pyramids of Egypt. This forms the basic plot of The Alchemist, peppered along the way with interesting characters and unveiled epiphanies. Firstly, to interpret his dream, Santiago seeks the help of a Gypsy woman from Tarifa, who agrees to interpret his dream for one-tenth of the treasure she will lead him towards. Soon, Santiago meets another character, an old man who turns out to be the King of Salem. Like the Gypsy woman, the old man is an invaluable source of inspiration for Santiago as he directs the boy along the path toward his dream: ‘God has prepared a path for everyone to follow. You just have to read the omens that he left for you,’ says the old man to Santiago. In saying this, the old man gives two precious stones to the boy, and explains to him that they are useful for reading the omens. Along the way, Santiago encounters devastating setbacks. In Tangier, he meets a character who ends up stealing all his money; a point at which Santiago is close to giving up. Yet, Coelho uses these moments to provide rich motivational dialogue in the story telling: ‘He realized that he had to choose between thinking of himself as the poor victim of a thief and as an adventurer in quest of his treasure.’ Create Your Destiny Coelho rewards his character, and complements his motivational storytelling, by providing success for Santiago along the way. Furthermore, Coelho weaves a plot which builds upon a strong theme within the book (continually capitalised throughout): The ‘Soul of the World’. That is, Santiago has set out upon his own personal dream and ‘[w]hen you want something with all your heart, that’s when you are closest to the Soul of the World.’ Furthermore, ‘when you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.’
I am yet to mention one important element to the story: Fatima, Santiago’s love interest. Coelho turns this love interest into an interesting balance of pursuing one’s dream against that of pursuing one’s love. Coelho turns The Alchemist into a unique love story in the sense that a lot of traditional love stories value the notion of romantic love as something that should be sacrificed for, yet Santiago is advised to pursue his dream even at the cost of love. ‘My heart is a traitor’ said Santiago. The alchemist replied: ‘Naturally it’s afraid that, in pursuing your dream, you might lose everything you’ve won.’ This unique approach has drawn some feminist criticism, accusing Coelho’s plot as sexist in the sense that Fatima had to wait in the desert whilst Santiago pursued his destiny. ‘Fatima is a woman of the desert…she knows that men have to go away in order to return.’ This brings me to my criticism of the The Alchemist. Although it deals with admirable and inspiring themes, it deals with them in such an overt manner as to come across as preachy. That is, Coelho’s hand is constantly waving for attention throughout the fable in order to give us, the reader, another strong piece of advice. A quick search on Amazon reveals that this is a highly praised book and that a common piece of advice for those who didn’t enjoy it is: ‘Read it again when you are ready for the spiritual knowledge it contains.’ Go figure?! The book was recently turned into a stage musical by well known Indian playwright and director Mahesh Dattani. Regardless, Paul Coelho’s The Alchemist is a publishing phenomenon. Published in more than 150 countries, The Alchemist also holds this 2009 Guinness World Record: ‘The most languages into which the same book has been translated, is The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho (Brazil), a global best-seller, which can be read in 67 languages, including Hindi, Farsi and isiXhosa.’ Thus, The Alchemist is destined to become a classic and aptly fits into this Old is Gold review as it quite literally filled publishers’ pockets full of the stuff – gold that is. The Alchemist, given its influence, is a book worth reading. Nigel Moffiet, Auckland, New Zealand
January 2010
Environment 19
Waste Matters Dorett Odoni reports on the current civic problem of hazardous plastic. A new technology that uses
plastic to lay roads offers a practical solution of dealing with a problem that could soon snowball into an ecological crisis An increase in waste generation is a general problem not just in India, but is a result of the growing consumer base all over the world. A major problem is the use of plastic. Using petroleum as its main carbon source, this durable material seemed to be the ideal invention, as it was cheap to produce, resistant against water and degradation and could be formed into various shapes and products. Dr. R Vasudevan
Plastics, A Biohazard But it is due to exactly those traits of durability that it has proven to be as much a curse today. As it is not easily disposed of and remains for several year unchanged in the ecosystem, causing environmental problems not just through the obviously visible pollution of land and water, but also suffocating the animals who happen to accidentally eat the plastic. While some other countries have recognised the problem and introduced and implemented various recycling processes, the waste management in India still lacks a solution for the proper disposal of plastic, along with the rest of the waste daily generated by the 1.15 billion people living all over the subcontinent. The plastic items are usually used for packaging purposes and then thrown on the street with hardly anyone ever using them more than once. As the bio-degradable domestic waste is scarcely ever separated from the non-degradable plastic waste, even the potentially useful conversion of the domestic waste to valuable manure is prevented. Therefore, the once so colourful and vibrant India is slowly but surely disappearing under mountains of garbage, clogging the rivers and streets alike. However, while incineration of these mountains of waste might remove the visible pollution from the occupied land, it causes even more environmental pollution due to the release of the prominent greenhouse gas carbon dioxide and other toxic gases into the air. The question is how to find a reasonable solution to the problem of plastic pollution as well as to create awareness in order to change the general garbage culture in India.
Innovative Use of Plastic One of the solutions is provided by Dr. R. Vasudevan of Thiagarajar College of Engineering in Madurai, Tamil Nadu. He introduced the use of waste plastics to construct better, more durable roads which require a lesser use of bitumen; decreasing both the cost of constructing the road and the maintaining costs, as the necessity for maintenance decreases. For his patented process the waste plastics are shredded into small pieces and distributed over a hot stone aggregate. The working temperatures are in the range of 120 – 170 ºC, causing the plastic to melt and coat the aggregate without releasing any toxic gases into the atmosphere. The molten plastic shows good binding property and the coated aggregate, which is mixed with hot bitumen and then used for road laying, has proven to be more resistant against water permeation, heat and high pressure than the normal mixture of only stone aggregate and bitumen, without the plastic.
The AllÂ-weather Plastic Road The first plastic-tar road was laid in Madurai 2002 and has since not shown the typical signs of deterioration usually observed in normal roads. Hence, the use of waste plastics to build roads not only solves the problem of plastic disposal, but also increases the quality of these roads, as they are now even able to withstand the heavy monsoon without the formation of potholes or even being washed away. After seeing the success, more plastic roads are to be laid in Tamil Nadu and other Indian states, the vision being to eventually replace all existing roads in India with the innovative material. Dr. R. Vasudevan says he had various offers to sell the patent, even abroad, but instead he preferred to give it for free to the Indian Government, as he sees it as his duty so serve his country. He also highly encourages the students of Thiagarajar College to bring their waste plastic from their homes, keeping their houses clean and slowly changing their views on proper waste disposal and garbage segregation for a cleaner India. If everybody were to collect the plastic, India could eventually resurface from the sea of garbage with better, safer roads. Also, the separation of the non-biodegradable waste from biodegradable domestic waste would allow the production of fertilizer instead of having to burn the waste altogether.
Dorett Odoni, Switzerland
Times of Madurai
20 Culture
Wrist Measurements, Please!
Circles of Splendour
Marie-Charlotte Cros strolls down ‘Vallayal kara theruvu’ and is dazzled by the endless rows of bangles on display and also discovers that the first shop established in 1942 is currently being run by the same family for three generations! When I arrive in ‘Vallayal kara theruvu’ or ‘Bangles Street,’ near the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai, I am instantly attracted by the endless rows of colourful bangles. Which woman wouldn’t be? For the choice is endless. The bangles are of varied colours, width, thickness and material. These shops are wholesale outlets that have been around for at least 30 to 40 years, the oldest dating back to more than 60 years.
A Symbol of Womanhood
arm. Most Indian women prefer wearing either gold or glass bangles or a combination of both. Inexpensive bangles made from plastic are slowly replacing those made by glass, but the ones made of glass are still preferred on traditional occasions such as marriages and on festivals. The duplicate gold is one of the favourites too because it’s cheaper than gold. The owners of the shops in ‘Bangles Street’ estimate that the ‘life’ of duplicate gold is between six months and one year. Besides the material another factor that adds to
Traditionally bangles have always had a special place as ornaments for women. Ancient records tell us that bangles were made from terracotta, stone, shell, copper, bronze, gold, silver, lac, glass and almost any material that lent itself to craftsmanship. If you are lucky to go to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, you will see magnificent Indian bangles dating back to1880. Also called ‘Vallayal’ in Tamil, ‘Kangan’ or ‘Chudi’ in Hindi bangles come in various colours and are symbols of matrimony. Bangles have a traditional and sentimental value in Hinduism. In fact, to the Hindu woman, the bangle is not only an ornament, but also an important part of womanhood and honour. Indian women wear bangles as a symbol of marriage. The decorative ornaments have over the centuries acquired a cultural, social and religious significance.
Traditional Indian Jewellry Bangles are part of traditional Indian jewelry. They are usually worn in pairs by women, a pair or more on each
Colours of the Rainbow
the price of the bangles is the ornamentation or the work done on the metal. This includes etchings, small glass pieces, paintings, or even small droplets that are attached to the bangles. The rarity of a colour and its unique value also increase the value.
January 2010
Culture 21
Many Symbolisms
Intergenerational Family Business
Glass bangles have many interesting symbolisms. Firstly, during an Indian wedding, the bride tries to wear the smallest glass bangles. She is helped by another woman to do this using scented oil. It is believed that smaller bangles symbolise a happy and loving marriage and a wonderful honeymoon, which lasts until the very last bangle breaks! Secondly, a married Indian woman is required to wear bangles (green or red depending on which region they belong to) on a day to day basis because bangles are symbolic of safety, marriage and luck for their husbands. The sudden breaking of glass bangles is considered a sign of danger or an unpleasant incident involving the husband.
The first shop in ‘Bangles Street’ was started in 1942, even before India’s Independence, by Kalidass, from Madurai. He procured bangles from numerous cities in India to sell then them in Madurai. At first, he limited the variety to glass and metal bangles, and then extended it to other materials. This store is now managed by his grandson, Janarthanan, who hopes to hand over the business to his son, Nitish Kumar, when he is old enough to succeed him. The atmosphere of the store is intimate and familial, and it is exciting to watch three generations working in the same roof! The building has not still renewed since its inception as the owners feel that it would take two or three months and that is a ‘waste of time’ for this entrepreneurial family!
The colour of these bangles has a specific meaning: Red for energy and love; blue for tranquility and wisdom; purple for independence; green for luck; orange for success; yellow for happiness; white for a new beginning and purity; and black for power and strength.
From Tradition to Fashion Wholesalers in ‘Bangles Street’ agree that nowadays bangles are worn by fashion conscious girls for style while
From Tradtion to Fashion
Bangles and Fertility There are different ceremonies connected with bangles in India. In Tamil Nadu, there is a ceremony called the ‘Valakaapu’ (vala means bangles and kaapu means security) is also performed with the ‘Seemandam’ ceremony during the ninth month of pregnancy when the mother-to-be is presented with glass bangles. Five married women decorate her hands with glass bangles in three auspicious colours, an even number of bangles in one hand and an odd number in another. The remaining bangles are distributed among the guests. Soft music is played, and this along with the jangle of bangles, is believed to be good for the baby’s developing ears.
for their mothers and grandmothers it was part of tradition. Hence bangles styles always change in response to ever changing market demands and expectations. Bangles adorn a woman’s wrist with grace and elegance. They are music to the ears, and a pretty sight for the eyes. Today bangles have become a fashion statement. Enthralling colours, lovely designs and patterns, ornamental appeal, musical tinkle and traditional value: bangles have surely survived the test of time. Marie-Charlotte Cros, France
22 News
Times of Madurai
News at a Glance Mystery Fever Causes Death of College Girl An MBA girl student Marichelvi, of Meenakshi College, died of a mysterious fever. The shocked students began a sit-in-strike accusing the administration of negligence. They also involved the teaching staff for denying permission for treatment. The principal, however, said it was beyond her responsibility because the girl could have developed fever during the holidays. The father of the deceased knew about his daughter’s fever but, as a farm worker, he had no time to take care of his daughter’s heath. A one-day off has been decided for day-scholars and three days for hostel residents to get to know more details about what exactly happened. It may be recalled a similar incident already happened in another college a few weeks ago.
Exchange Programme between American College and United States A memorandum of understanding has been signed in 2008 between The American College and the Appalachian State University, USA. Selected students of any discipline of the American College in Madurai will have the opportunity to pursue undergraduate or post graduate study for a period of six months to one year in the University of New Carolina, USA. Students will be provided food and accommodation and will have to pay for the air fare, visa and medical insurance. The programme would enable students acquire a first hand experience of cross cultural living.
New Water Purifiers Installed A new water purifier as been installed in the paediatric section of Government Rajaji Hospital to provide pure drinking to the children undergoing treatment and another
one at the nurse’s hostel. Each unit costs Rs. 4.5 lakh and can convert 1000 litres of salt water in one hour. The daily consumption of water for the hospital from bore wells and Corporation drinking water is, at least, 3.5 lakh litres. Nevertheless, it doesn’t cover their needs for a day. Resident Medical Officer Dr. Balasubramanian, Dr. Chandrasekaran, Head, Department of Anesthesiology, and others doctors were present during the inauguration by Dr. S M Sivakumar.
Lorries Collide A food grain lorry with six workers collided head on with a vegetable lorry near the bridge in Thoppur area and killed three of the travelers. The other three who suffered serious injuries were taken to the Government Rajaji Hospital for treatment. Balasekaran, vegetable lorry driver was arrested.
Road Mishap A policeman was killed because of the removal of a roundabout near Periyar Bus Stand, the busiest place in the city. In another instance a bus knocked down an Armed Reserve policeman who was riding back home on a two wheeler. The back wheel of the bus ran over his head killing him on the spot.
Christmas at Grace Kennett Foundation On December 12, it was an advance Christmas for patients, staff and children in Grace Kennett Foundation in Madurai. The special guest was Rev. Dr. Gnanavaram, Principal of Tamilnadu Theological Seminary, Madurai. Dr Augustus Samuel Dodd, Chief Medical Superintendent, GKF, welcomed the gathering. Two Santa Clauses arrived riding bicycles and distributed sweets. After an hour, guests enjoyed a delicious dinner.,
Michel Daniel, France
January 2010
Outreach 23
ToM at Mahatma School On December 8 volunteer journalists from ToM interacted with students of Mahatma Montessori School, KK Nagar, Madurai. Premalatha Pannerselvam, Principal, a few teachers, and some of the students welcomed us warmly. After a short introduction of the purpose of our visit, we began the interaction with students of Class 11.
The German Angle
In Love with Indian Food
Students swamped us with questions related to the history and present political situation in Germany. We were impressed by the depth of their knowledge about German history, its role in World War II, and the Berlin Wall. The boys specifically asked question about how Germany has changed from the 1950s until today and whether we felt happy about the present social structure in Germany.
The students also wanted to know how why we chose to come to India and the other countries we had visited earlier. In response to their question about the difference between India and other countries, all of us agreed that India is different and special in just about everything. For instance, India’s food, its people, its traffic and its daily life is so different from Germany, France and other European counties. Lifestyles in countries such as Egypt or Turkey is more similar to our home countries. Students also wanted to know if we like Indian food and they were surprised to hear that we love Indian food!
All Eyes on us
In response to their question about the widespread belief about the impending end of the world as portrayed in the film 2012, we replied that we neither care about that nor even speak it, because according to us it’s just another American film which raises the issue of Apocalypse.
A Matter of Perspective
The girls on the other hand enquired about our experiences in India and whether we were uncomfortable with the stares we receive from the local people. We shared with them that it certainly made us feel uncomfortable. We never knew if they were doing so out of curiosity, to befriend us, or whether they disliked the presence of “foreigners” in their country. We in turn wanted to know the reasons for being stared at!
Students were impressed with the first issue of ToM. According to them, the magazine helped them to know their city better. One of the girls asked Marie-Laure Bonifassi with reference to her article “Thank You, India”, if she really wished she were a man in India. She answered that she really feels discriminated as a woman, because of the numerous restrictions imposed on women. While the discrimination is obvious to us, the girls told us they were so “used to it” that they don’t perceive it as disadvantages or discriminations. Alina Emrich, Frankfurt, Germany
And, in the end, it’s not the years in your life that count, it’s the life in your years. Be happy today, don’t talk about yesterday.
Abraham Lincoln Omar Khayyam