Madurai messenger issue43 june 2013 lowres

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June 2013

Volume 4, Issue 43

Sponsored by:

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Koovagam: India’s Largest Trans gender Festival Plus: Trans gender Activists Kalki Subramaniam and G. Keerthana

Editor

Contents

EDITOR’S CORNER

June 2013 | Issue No. 43

Dr. Nandini Murali Copy Editor Bhuvana Venkatesh Journalism Supervisor B. Pooja

EDITOR’S CORNER

01 Dealing with Differences COVER STORY

02 Brides for a Single Night

A

PROFILE Journalism Administrator G. Durgairajan

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF

13 All about Making Choices 16 Indian traditions, Christian Spirit:

Ella Verkuijten

A Catholic village in the Heart of Tamil Nadu

Luca Scarafile

SUMMER SPLASH

Monica Cristini Jessie Rouane

20 Summer Quenching Secrets

Zina Bibanovic Nadine Rechsteiner Nanami Kato

CAUSES

24 Sahodari Foundation: One Big Family

You can tell a great deal about people by the way they react to differences. I wonder what people would say if I told them I work with sexually marginalized communities. Or when I tell them that people with disabilities may be different. But they are first and foremost people. Just because they are different does not mean they are not equal.

FILM REVIEW Cover Photograph G.Durgairajan

28 Through a Different Lens 29 Celebrating Differences

I just finished reading an incredible book Expecting Adam by Martha Beck. The author, a Harvard University sociologist, writes poignantly abut her decision to go ahead with her pregnancy even through she knows that her baby is diagnosed with Down Syndrome. In doing so, she changes many of our cherished notions about normality and social mores and norms.

BOOK REVIEW Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd.,

31 A Metamorphosis VILLAGE VOICES

Contact: editor@maduraimessenger.org

33 A. Valayapatti:

MADURAI MESSENGER No. 17, T.P.K Road

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269

Carl Jung, the famous Swiss psychiatrist, introduced the concept of the Shadow in psychology. In simple terms, it means that we tend to project and disown whatever we dislike about ourselves. The next time you swear that you dislike people who gossip, stop. Catch yourself. That may be the very tendency you have. Yet you dislike the trait so much that you disown it by projecting it to another person.

Growth or releasing ourselves from patterns that hold us hostage happens when we see our Shadow, reclaim it and integrate it with ourselves. When that happens, the Shadow merges with Light.

The Damocles Sword of Technology 38 39 40 41

An Epiphanic Bus Ride A Barefoot Country In the Eye of a Storm Becoming India!

LASTING IMPRESSIONS

42 Madurai: Meendum Sandipom

Photo by: Kamaljith K V

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The most important shift was the gradual realization that in life there are no absolutes. On the contrary, life is contextual. Seen from this perspective, rigid categories such as right/wrong, good/bad seem like water-tight compartments that have no meaning by themselves but need to be contextualized. For example, a speeding car driver loses control and meets with an accident. He escapes unhurt.

But the co-passenger dies. Can he be branded as a murderer? Of course not.

Because his intention was certainly not to murder. Or consider the dictum, ‘always speak the truth.’ This cannot be viewed as a blanket ban on untruths but needs to be viewed in the larger contextual reality.

CULTURE

Reporters & Photographers Cindy Gautier

recent opportunity to work with sexually marginalised communities in South India consisting of female and male sex workers and Trans Genders was an eye opener in more ways than one. As also were my long years of experience as a journalist writing about people with disabilities and disabilityrelated issues. In both instances, the experience was profound and changed my life perspective and the way I look at people and happenings.

08 Superwoman Subramaniam 11 Reclaiming Her Self

Designer & Technical Support T. Jesuraja

Dealing with Differences

Dr. Nandini Murali Editor

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Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2013

Building bridges of understanding: TGS Kamala (Left) and Amala with the police with whom the community shares a good rapport

Brides for a Single Night The famous annual Koovagam Festival draws Trans Genders from across the country. Although the festival is rooted in religion and tradtion, in recent years, the sacred space has also expanded to include NGOs and the state government who see it as a God-given opportunity to spread awareness about sexually transmitted diseases and promote safe sexual practices in the highly marginalized sexual minority community of which the Trans Genders are a part Text: Zina Bibanovic, The Netherlands Photos: G.Durgairajan

Zina – travels to Koovagam to piece the story together

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ingling of anklets, girly, high pitched squeals, and the chattering of groups of saree-clad bodies; bright, beautiful sarees, large, prominent statues and visible excitement that sweeps over the field. Traditional Indian street food, the burning of a larger-than-life God and the smell of a long-sought freedom. What is this place, which has tingled my senses and intrigued my mind? This is Koovagam.

Koovagam, a small village 25 km from Villupuram in Tamil Nadu, has been a sanctuary for Trans Genders (TGs) from all over India for several years. Many of them have been participating in the festival throughout their entire adult life and hold the festival in high esteem.

For them, it symbolizes a short-lived freedom, a mere few days in which they can let go, be themselves and praise a God who is theirs alone. They rule the festival area, and aren’t afraid to show it — local villagers sit by patiently, allowing the festival-goers to have their fun, and awaiting the death of Lord Aravan, which for them means a return to normal life. For the TGs, it means the end of their celebrations, the end of a beautiful marriage to their beloved God and another year of fighting for acceptance and respect.

An ancient tradition M. Krishna, a generational temple priest, is the ‘top priest’ at Koovagam this year. He patiently explains to me the religious background of the festival — the story of Lord Aravan and his sacrifice. Aravan, is the son of Arjuna, the Pandava prince, and the hero of the Indian epic, The Mahabharata. During the 18-day Kurukshetra war, Aravan is sacrificed by his father Arjuna, to the Goddess of destruction, Kali. Upon agreeing to this sacrifice, Aravan asks for three wishes, which are granted to him. One of these wishes was that he would not die a virgin, and would be married before he died. As no woman was willing to marry a man who would die the next day and leave them widowed forever, Lord Krishna appeared in his female form, and became Aravan’s wife for the night.

Amala, a TG whom the MM team frist spoke to

Lord Aravan is the only God exclusively for Trans Genders, and Koovagam has long been seen as a social platform for Trans Genders and like-minded people to convene, share stories and connect with one another away from the pressures of society. long been seen as a social platform for Trans Genders and like-minded people to convene, share stories and connect with one another away from the pressures of society.

“Every year at Koovagam, the participants marry Lord Aravan and the day after they cremate him and grieve their loss. I am a devotee of the gods. My role here is to take the role of Lord Aravan for the Trans Genders,” M. Krishna explains, “Personally, I view Trans Genders with the highest respect – they have made a significant sacrifice for Lord Aravan,” he adds.

of festival-goers; many of them make the journey to the festival purely for the religious aspects. Malika, a 49-year-old Trans Gender from Tamil Nadu, tells me that “the religious aspect is the only important thing for [her] … The work of the NGOs and others is unimportant.”

The hard work of the temple priests does not go unnoticed by the thousands

Lord Aravan is the only God exclusively for Trans Genders, and Koovagam has

From the sacred to the secular

Twenty-three-year-old Anila, a Trans Gender who was here all the way from Mumbai adds on to this saying, “This festival is very important to us, because of the much-needed social interaction that it provides.” However, she does acknowledge the new changes being brought to Koovagam by NGOs, such as the Miss Koovagam beauty contest, as a positive enhancement of the festival.

“Because we only have one festival once a year, it’s a big deal if you win the beauty contest.”

The social interaction they crave snowballs into an overpowering sense of community, which seems to be almost

visible to the human eye, and can be felt by everyone, regardless of age, nationality or sexual preference.

Groups of Trans Genders merge together, sharing laughter and respect, making new friendships and solidifying old ones.

Another beautiful Trans Gender, Radha, spoke to me briefly on the morning of the marriage to Aravan and described the festival to me in her own words. “ [Koovagam] is a change for us from our daily lives.

Here we have communal harmony, and lead good lives. The townspeople and police treat us with respect, and every year their tolerance improves.”

She smiles and poses for a photograph with three of the policemen on duty nearby, exemplifying the cordial relationship between the Trans Genders and the authorities.

The sincerity of the welcome attitude of the villagers is made even more apparent to me as I chat to a store owner in the town of Villupuram, on the street of the Miss Koovagam beauty contest. She and her grandson are in charge the stall for today, and although she says that today doesn’t make much of a difference to the stall profit-wise, she enjoys working during the festival – “TGs are great celebrators, fun and well-behaved. I welcome them to Villupuram all year round.”

Struggle for acceptance Unfortunately, the life of a Trans Gender in India is not always as accepted and easygoing. Trans Genders are seen as having spiritual powers – a closer connection to the gods because of the sacrifices they have made for them.

This, however, does not protect them from public neglect and discrimination.

Those who find themselves in unaccommodating locations can be denied jobs and affordable living rates, having to opt for sex work or begging. Anila also tells me that she feels largely accepted in Mumbai, but encounters issues as she travels – “in the smaller villages in India they have

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Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2013

less respect for [Trans Genders], calling us names such as number 9 and pottai (eunuchs).”

Seeta Prakash, a 44-year-old Trans Gender originating from outside of Tamil Nadu agrees with this, and tells me that 90 out of 100 people she encounters on the street in her city of Delhi will treat her with respect. She also informs me that the treatment of Trans Genders is much better in the north of India – the treatment in the south is starting to improve but, aside from Koovagam, Trans Genders lead better lives outside of Tamil Nadu. This may be a result of the modernization of the north – the south is very traditional in comparison, which can lead to a peculiar narrow-mindedness in common folk. The festival is a break from the odd hypocrisy the Trans Genders deal with in their daily life – one moment someone will be treating them as a deity, the next as scum.

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Effecting behaviour change Despite varied public opinion, there are those who work all year round to ensure nation-wide health and safety for Trans Genders. Some, like Malika, may not be impressed by the work of the NGOs at Koovagam, but studies show that they are very much needed.

HIV prevalence amongst Trans Genders has shown to be between 17.5 percent and 41 percent, an alarming number when compared to the “overall adult HIV prevalence of 0.36 percent.” STDs and STIs are widespread in the Trans Gender community due to lack of awareness about adequate protection and safe sexual practices in a group which engages in risky sexual behaviour.

A barrier is also apparent between Trans Genders and health care services.

The low socioeconomic status and widespread stigma and discrimination of most Trans Genders impacts the attitudes of health care providers who treat them with scorn and insensitivity.

They are often subjects of mockery when unable to fill in whether they are male or female on hospital documents.

Anila, runner-up of the Miss Koovagam contest 2013

At this point in time not many official public services offer a “Trans Gender” tick box, which holds them back from obtaining services that are their basic civilian rights.

Dr. E. M. Ashok, a clinical psychiatrist working with the NGO Community Health Counseling Trust, doubles as one of the coordinators of the Miss Koovagam beauty contest during festival time. Having worked with the organization for 11 years, Ashok knows the ways of the Trans Gender community and applies his knowledge

to make the festival, or at least the beauty contest, bigger and better every year. Looking around the bustling hall in which the beauty contest had just come to an end, he shares with me his belief in the good that the beauty contest brings to its contestants.

“The participants use this contest to express their emotions and this can be very confronting as a lot of them are deeply emotionally disturbed. Due to social and family exclusion, they were never taught right or wrong,” explains Dr Ashok.

A shared sister Hood: Raji (left) with her friend

Chaya Singh from Dharmapuri (on the right ) the winner of the Miss Koovagam 2013

This is where Community Health Counseling Trust comes in – Dr. Ashok describes the goal of the NGO as “mobilizing the community and generating income for Trans Genders.”

One of their methods of achieving this is by giving personal loans, with lower interest rates for TGs. They also work to address the issue of the non-existent ‘Trans Gender’ tickbox, one of the ways of helping them qualify for health insurance.

Government-supported initiatives The work of such NGOs is essential to the Trans Gender community.

However, the Indian government has not abandoned this rather outspoken population. Bumping into P. Ravichandran, a government official working in the Health Department of Villupuram district, opens my eyes to the work the government does for Trans Genders.

“My goal during the year is the prevention of HIV/AIDS and

The work of such NGOs is essential to the Trans Gender community. However, the Indian government has not abandoned this rather outspoken population. implementing our triple-zero tolerance policy. This policy indicates zero tolerance of the infection of HIV, the discrimination against persons carrying HIV, and death caused by HIV,” explains Ravichandran. The government provides rehabilitation centres for Female Sex Workers (FSW) and Trans Gender Sex Workers (TSW). He lists the benefits as “nursing Trans Genders back to health, counseling them and providing them with jobs in order to prevent them returning to their old lifestyles.”

the spread of sexually transmitted diseases. By describing how they can stop themselves from harming themselves and others, they hope to eradicate HIV/AIDS from the community.

The government has played an active role in Koovagam for the last five years, providing a free, mobile counseling and testing centre for all TGs. Ravichandran confides in me that he is actually attending the festival as a volunteer, not on duty – another example of the respect many have for Trans Genders.

Ravichandran also tells me about government coalition with NGOs. If there is an NGO which treats TGs on a purely medical level, his department steps in towards the end of their medical treatment. They counsel them, and try to educate them on preventing

My interaction with Radha led me to a conversation with P. Jaya Kumar, a 42-year-old fireman who was on duty at Koovagam as general security.

His laidback demeanour told me all I needed to know about his attitude towards Trans Genders – pure respect

Beyond sterotypes

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Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2013

dictated his every move. He casually described his job at the festival to me.

Sacred chants: M.Krishna- high priest of Koovagam temple

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The Trans Genders all share a common dream—that of nation-wide acceptance. Although they note the progress being made in many parts of India, this dream is still far from reality and it may take generations to achieve

R.Kamala, who is a member of a TG group that specializes in cooking for marriages.

TGs are famous for their fabulous cooking.

“It is very crowded and people run the risk of getting crushed. There is a small lake as well, which some people jump into not knowing how to swim. I just have to make sure nothing happens to anyone.” When I asked him how he personally felt about Trans Genders, he answered me sincerely, saying, “In my point of view, TGs were given special powers by God, and must be treated that way. Although they are spiritual beings, in the eyes of the law, they are the same as all other citizens and have the same rights, no more, no less.”

His eyes lighten up, and he continues, “The law has a good understanding of what this festival means to the TGs and that is why we are prepared.

However, the festival is not at all hard to maintain, as the TGs are always in control and well-behaved.”

This view is shared by two policemen I have the opportunity of talking to quickly on the day of the cremation – for safety reasons, I was not given their names or ages, or permission to photograph them. They did, however, back up what Kumar had said earlier, by repeating that “[Koovagam] is the TGs holy space and we respect them and their values. This festival is a holy function, therefore it is our duty to enforce law and order during the celebrations when necessary. We ensure the safety of the TGs and the villagers. Management of the festival is easy, and we have total control of the situation because of the amount of manpower and the efficiency of our staff.” They also talk to me about their respect for Trans Genders in everyday life and add that “in daily life, [they] mainly protect TGs from public harassment,” to their regret.

The Trans Genders all share a common dream—that of nation-wide acceptance. Although they note the progress being made in many parts of India, this dream is still far from reality and it may take generations to achieve.

TGs are considered Gods for a day at the Koovagam festival. Seetha, a TG, blessing a family visiting the festival

They are celebrating their love for their god, their love for their life and their love for each other.

Despite the hardships they have all felt, they wear their scars with pride and let loose the pains of neglect and alienation.

Stars of the day :TGs posing for the camera

Uphill all the Way Even in a country such as The Netherlands, known for its liberal stance on LGBT (Lesbian Gay Bisexual Trans Gender) rights, Trans Genders have a hard time filing government papers, such as job applications, due to the loopholes in the system regarding official gender identity. Laws such as the one which states that all Trans Genders must have had the sexual reassignment surgery before they may legally change their gender identity, stand in the way of many Trans Genders who, for some reason, have opted out of surgery. Issues such as this, and many others, may arise in India as well as Trans Genders become more and more recognized by the government.

This being said, as of now, any recognition is good recognition, and in the tiny village of Koovagam, thousands of Trans Genders are celebrating being alive. They are celebrating their love for their god, their love for their life and their love for each other. Despite the hardships they have all felt, they wear their scars with pride and let loose the pains of neglect and alienation. On the day of the cremation, as they mourn their lost husband, they look ahead to a brighter future – or at least, to next year’s Koovagam.

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Madurai Messenger Profile June 2013

Superwoman Subramaniam

“For three days, I was in a lot of pain but I felt so amazing afterwards. It was great to feel ‘down there’ and feel nothing,” Kalki laughs.

The versatile Kalki Subramaniam is a many spendoured person. A holder of two Master’s degrees in journalism and International Relations, the actor and documentary film maker who is a well known Trans Gender activist, talks to Ella Verkuitjen about the challenges, triumphs and tears of being a Trans Gender in India Text: Ella Verkuijten,The Netherlands

Receiving the Merit certificate at the United Nations Office, NY

Photos: Kalki Subramaniam

Akkai and Kalki return after the swearing in of the Chief Justice of India at the Rashtrapati Bhavan

considerable number of women having to beg or work in the sex trade. Kalki, however, has managed to gain two masters degrees, one in journalism and mass communication and the second in international relations. After learning about her academic skills, I can’t help but wonder how she managed to stay out of the streets.

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ave you ever wished to be a writer? Or rather a movie star, head of an institution, documentary filmmaker or simply incredibly educated? What if I told you some people manage to do all of these things at once? Kalki Subramaniam is such a person. After finishing two masters’ degrees, she is currently working on two books. Besides that, she had a lead role in the movie Narthaki, has participated in making several documentaries and runs the Trans Gender empowerment organization Sahodari Foundation. On top of all that, she herself is a Trans Gender and, stunningly beautiful. Kalki does it all. Still, her most important work is fighting for the rights of women like herself.

Arriving in Pollachi, the hometown of Subramaniam, we are greeted by the rather loud but cheerful barking of her dachshund. As soon as we enter, Kalki proudly introduces us to her mother. A young girl is giggling and shyly running into a room. Kalki playfully pulls her back and introduces the little girl to us as her cousin. Kalki’s incredibly infectious smile strikes me immediately.

Supportive family Most Trans Genders are rejected by their families at a young age and get thrown out or leave voluntarily because of it. Education is often abandoned as well, resulting in a

She was incredibly lucky. “My parents were really supportive. I came out to them and they just accepted me,” Kalki explains. Her family kept motivating her to study hard. “Education is really important to them.” Nevertheless, Kalki did not feel comfortable in school. Her fellow students did not understand her and so she often cut class to go to the outskirts of Pollachi to meet with other Trans Genders. “We would dance, sing and play all day long. Afterwards I would put on my uniform and return home as if I went to school,” Kalki says smiling. Eventually, she did follow her parent’s advice and worked hard to obtain her degrees.

A difficult path While getting these degrees, Kalki had to face the challenges of her own confusion and sexuality as well. She was already aware she was actually a woman, although the physical transition just hadn’t taken place yet.

“I couldn’t really go to doctors in India for hormone treatment since they are

not educated about this matter,” she explains. Therefore, Kalki turned to her Trans Gender friends who could provide her with hormones in the form of pills and injections. For some time, Kalki experimented with different hormone therapies to assay what worked best for her. I can’t help but notice how dangerous this sounds. “Yes I knew it was very dangerous. Still, I found it worth the risk. All I wanted to be was a woman so I knew I had to take this chance to become one,” Kalki states.

Eventually, she decided injections were the best method for her.

In her early 20s, she finally made the physical transition complete by undergoing her sex reassignment surgery. “For three days, I was in a lot of pain but I felt so amazing afterwards.

It was great to feel ‘down there’ and feel nothing,” Kalki laughs. Her infectious smile urges us to laugh along with her.

An ambassador for awareness Being physically a woman now, Kalki came across an advertisement of movie director G. Vijayapadma for a character for the lead role in the movie Narthaki. The story was about a Tamil boy growing up to be a Trans Gender woman. Kalki decided to attempt to participate. “Vijayapadma was really

enthusiastic about me and cast me immediately,” a delighted Kalki informs us. In 2011, the film premiered. “It was so strange to see myself on such a big screen! Oh, and I thought I looked so fat,” she laughs. Narthaki has won several awards, including the Tamil Nadu Progressive Writers Award, the Norway Tamil Film Festival Award and Cine Exnora Award. Kalki even won an award for her performance from the veteran actor Chaaru Hassan. Besides being popular amongst the public, the movie was amazingly appreciated by the Trans Gender community. While the movie was not particularly about Kalki herself, it just as well could have been, as it is an incredibly realistic depiction of what a Trans Gender has to go through. “The film portrays the life of all Trans Gender women in India.

My Trans Gender friends loved it so much because they really understood what my character went through,” Kalki explains. “Furthermore, the movie has done so much for the general awareness and understanding of Trans Genders in India.” All of which make Kalki proud to have been part of it.

Although she could not give us a hint yet, she states that her next movie will soon begin to shoot.

Voice for the Voiceless Besides her activities on screen, her off screen skills are something to be proud

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Madurai Messenger Profile June 2013

Reclaiming Her Self

Since 2008, Kalki has been running the Sahodari Foundation, an organisation focusing on the empowerment, awareness and acceptance of the Trans Gender community in Tamil Nadu.

Actor and activist, Trans Gender G. Keerthana, candidly tells Ella Verkuitjen about her determination to script a new destiny for herself and reclaim her identity as a woman Text : Ella Verkuijten, The Netherlands Photos: Luca Scarafile, Italy and Cindy Gautier, France

trapped in a male body. Living in India, this resulted in multiple problems for Keerthana as her family and society were reluctant to accept her sexual identity as a woman. In India, most TGs like Keerthana end up begging or working in the sex trade. Keerthana, however, has managed to work for a successful Community Based Organisation, star in an awardwinning movie and even sign a contract for a second film!

Kalki hosting and awarding Kolikavani Memorial Award to another famous Trans Gender Rose

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of as well. Her documentary program ‘Project Kalki’ has managed to bring a tear to many eyes in 2011. With the documentary, Kalki attempted to give a “voice to the voiceless.” She gave seven underprivileged Trans Gender women training in documentary making.

Subsequently, they were given a handy cam with which they could make their own documentary on any subject of their choice. Some women chose to portray their lives and relationships, others focused on other people such as street children or the elderly.

Afterwards, Kalki used the internet to get their voices across. “The internet is perfect for an incredible number of people to see the women’s stories,” Kalki affirms. The project has received several rave reviews for giving a voice to the underprivileged women.

Project Kalki wasn’t the first activity to do so. Since 2008, Kalki has been running the Sahodari Foundation, an organisation focusing on the empowerment, awareness and acceptance of the Trans Gender community in Tamil Nadu. Together with 11 other members, Kalki works hard on various projects, providing

the women with mental support, education, job opportunities and creative workshops to help express themselves. Moreover, the close “family” of volunteers raise awareness and lobby with the government to give Trans Genders access to equal rights and privileges. When she was young, Kalki witnessed her Trans Gender friends go through several instances of physical and mental abuse, making her realise she wanted to help in some way. “Ever since I can remember, I have always been inspired to fight for our rights,” Kalki earnestly tells us. And she sure does.

A fountainhead of creativity Considering all Kalki’s activities mentioned above, she is bound to be incredibly busy. Nevertheless, she doesn’t feel she is too busy to work on another project of hers; two different books that she is currently writing. Her first work is a semi-autobiographical book. “It will be about my life and my experiences, especially aimed at young people,” Kalki declares. Again, she doesn’t lose focus of her main goal; helping the Trans Gender community.

We meet Keerthana at the office of the Madurai Aravanigal Tai Vizhuthugal Trust where she works as a treasurer. The organisation has been involved in advocacy and lobbying for the rights of TG communities since 2004. Upon arrival, we are greeted by a small group of Trans Gender people welcoming us into the building. While enjoying a fresh cup of coffee and some biscuits, the women ask us where we’re from, what we do and what our countries are like. After talking to them for a while, we see a synthetic sari and gold jewellery shining in the strip of sunlight filtering through the window; Keerthana arrives. With a charming smile, she sits down in front of me.

She seems eager to tell us all about her joys as well as her immense struggles.

She will write this work in English instead of her mother tongue, Tamil.

“This way, my book is able to reach young people from all over the world.”

“My second book will be my literary work,” Kalki tells us. This will be a collection of her poetry, which, Kalki already divulges, will be very strong and powerful.

Meeting Kalki has been educational, inspiring and incredibly delightful. She’s bursting with genuine friendliness, cheerfulness and an amazing hunger to fight for sexual minority groups in Tamil Nadu who need her help. Moreover, the application of her countless talents in different fields add to her inspirational and strong character. “But enough about me, tell me something about yourselves!” a smiling Kalki concludes.

Escape to freedom

Keerthana - a very feminine woman

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myself have never been much of a girly-girl. I dislike talking about boys, don’t feeling my heart pounding at the sight of George Clooney and I even dare to say I hate romantic comedies. Nevertheless, I love my feminine body and characteristics. I can’t imagine having the physique of the opposite sex.

A different destiny Unlike me, for G. Keerthana 24, this is not so difficult. For as long as she can remember, she felt more feminine than other boys. At the age of 11 years, the niggling doubts and fears was a fact; she was actually a Trans Gender, a female

Generally, families of TGs are profoundly shocked and horrified when they realize their son actually desires to become a woman. However, after the initial shock, some families find a way to accept this hard truth and approve of their offspring’s new sexual identity. Keerthana, however, did not have such luck. Her parents could not handle the fact that Keerthana simply wasn’t a male. The constant taunts and ridicule by her family made her flee to Mumbai at the age of 13. “Here, I encountered many TGs and even gained a guru (mother) who wanted to care for me as her daughter,” Keerthana tells us. However, her parents filed a complaint to the police, resulting in Keerthana’s forced return to her hometown.

Having returned to her family home, Keerthana was told that her parents wanted to send her to a Western country where she would be able to make a better life for herself. Delighted at this surprise move, she agreed. By the time she realised her parents had lied to her, it was already too late.

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Madurai Messenger Profile June 2013

Keerthana - a rock of a woman

astrologer told him that his son would bring death into the house. Fourteen years later, he attempts to find him again. In the meantime, a group of physically disabled beggars are being forced to hand over their earnings to Thandavan, a man who feels as if he owns them. Keerthana played the role of the caretaker of the beggars.

“At first, it was difficult relating to my character. I didn’t really know how to be her,” Keerthana tells us. Halfway through the movie, however, she got the hang of it and eventually, in my opinion, came up with an amazing performance.

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In the following month, Keerthana was forcefully admitted to a mental hospital. Out of desperation, her parents attempted to make her into a man by agreeing to give her medication and psychological ‘help’. They even went as far as threatening to poison her if she refused to change. “I don’t remember much about my time there,” Keerthana explains, “Most of the time I was drugged and, therefore, I slept a lot.” Thanks to her uncle, a closet TG, she managed to escape a month later by telling her mother that she was cured and would be a ‘good boy’ from then on. As soon as they agreed to take her home, Keerthana escaped and eventually returned to her ‘mother’ in Mumbai.

A turning point At the age of 15 years, her guru talked to Keerthana’s parents, and told them that she would take care of her if they did not accept her as a daughter.

Both Keerthana and her parents agreed. Now, being among other TGs, Keerthana thought it possible to finally fully become a woman and undergo sexual reassignment surgery.

However, her guru did not agree she was ready for it and, so, refused. Being unable to cope with her masculine body, Keerthana attempted suicide.

Luckily, her guru walked into the room, witnessed Keerthana with the rope

tied around her neck and was able to stop her. After this, she agreed to her operation in 2006. “I was so happy afterwards,” she radiantly tells us.

At the time, Keerthana was dancing at weddings to earn money. “One day, a dance group approached me, asking if I wanted to dance with them,” she tells us. This changed her life completely.

After some performances, Keerthana was approached by two men, telling her they were assistant directors and were currently working on a movie. They told her she would be perfect for a role.

“At first I was not interested and told the men to go away, but some of my friends talked with the men and told them I would do it, without my knowledge.” Her friends convinced Keerthana to watch the shooting of the movie, Naan Kadavul, without telling her she was actually playing a role.

“The director was talking about the makeup and the activities of my character and looking at me while he talked. I didn’t understand this at all.” When being told she was actually playing the role, she agreed to do so.

A star is born Naan Kadavul, directed by Bala Pazhanisamy, is the story of a man who cast his son away from home after an

“The director was very strict and a true perfectionist,” Keerthana says smiling. Nevertheless, she really enjoyed working with him. The plight of the beggars portrayed in the movie is not uncommon in India. Even now, an incredibly large number of people are being forced to beg and hand in their earnings.

“I think Naan Kadavul has helped raise awareness for minority groups in India. It definitely got people thinking,” Keerthana adds. With her second movie lined up, Keerthana might be well on her way to becoming an Indian movie star. “I have had offers for other movies as well,” she tells us. Yet she insists that she will not blindly accept every role that is offered to her but take up roles only if she feels convinced about the film. For now, Keerthana is content with her job as an accountant at Madurai Aravanigal Tai Vizhuthugal Trust and will soon be busy shooting her second movie. My conversation with Keerthana is one I will not forget soon. It’s not just the struggles she’s been through; it’s the manner in which she is able to talk about them. It’s her ability to make herself, and her eight dogs, a nice living despite all her struggles. It’s the fact that she still sends her parents money every month, even though they rejected her.

Most of all, it’s her realistic and down to earth outlook on life which I, being that non girly-girl, can strongly relate to.

All about Making Choices Cindy Gautier spends a day with Trans Genders Keerthana and Madhavi and is pleasantly surprised to discover that they are no different from others. In a candid conversation, they share with her the difficult lives they lead; all because of society’s refusal to accept their sexual orientation. Yet they say that life is all about making choices and that they are happy about their choice to live life as a woman Text: Cindy Gautier, France Photos: Ken Katano, Japan

The neighbourhood in which Keethana and other Trans Genders live

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he plight of most Trans Genders is unenviable. Worse than orphans, they are not only rejected by their family but also by society. Most people find it difficult to accept their sexual choice of being a woman because they do not fit society’s norms and expectations.

Being a Trans Gender is not something we can cure like an illness. Do you consider people who want to undergo surgery to change their nose, breasts, or whatever, to be ill? If you do not accept a part of your body, you can just change it and you are satisfied. Society will not cause you problems. However, when the part of your body concerned is related to your sex, it is another matter. Not only your sex changes but so does your entire identity. How do you make people understand that you do not belong in your body?

It is a feeling difficult to convey. Most people are ignorant of what Trans Genders are going through. I too was no exception before meeting Trans Genders. Whenever I came across a Trans Gender, I would look at them curiously. I often longed to know what their lives were like. I finally got an opportunity to spend a day with two Trans Genders, Keerthana and Madhavi, in Madurai. To my surprise, I discovered that their lives are actually not much different from that of most of us. I realized that they are like us. Or at least they would like to be considered so.

I am lucky to be invited to the house of Keerthana (24) and Madhavi (31). I reach their small house full of dogs. “We always treat our guests like God,” they say. I was delighted by these words which made me feel immediately at ease.

8 a.m.: The time they usually wake up. Like traditional Indian women they start their day washing and cleaning their house.

Afterwards they cook delicious food. I was lucky to be served delicious sugar cane juice which was refreshing and tasty.

5 p.m.: During exams, Keerthana, who has completed her Class 12, provides help for students who need to be coached in various subjects. need. Although her students know about her sex change, it makes no difference. They have accepted her completely.

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Madurai Messenger Profile June 2013

Tuesday and Friday: Like many Indian women, Keerthana and Madhavi devote their time to worship and prayer. Unlike the common practice, they do not restrain their devotion to one religion.

“We are neither Muslims, Christians nor Hindus. There are no caste and religion.

We are all Indians and Trans Genders, that’s all.”

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All around me, I am surrounded by portraits and statues of different deities and gods. The room looks ornate with offerings and decoration. They are like everyone else. Maybe different. But it is not the fact that they are Trans Genders that makes them different. It is the fact that they think in a different way from other people. Or maybe because they dare to think differently. They are not afraid to tell what is in their mind. Now that they have fulfilled their desire of becoming a woman, voicing their thoughts is not a problem at all.

For them, religion is just a man-made creation. Although they do not want to be identified solely with any particular religion, they praise the three Gods of the main religions.

“We never see which religion or caste you are,” explain Keerthana and Madhavi. Whether you are a Muslim, a Jew, a gay, a disabled, a poor, an untouchable, or whatever you can be, they will accept you as you are. The only difference between people is the choices they make. Keerthana and Madhavi want to show us the importance of living our lives based on our own choices. It is important for our happiness. “Don’t force others to follow you. Don’t impose rules. Choices are personal so don’t change your own choice for anyone,” advises Keerthana.

Thursday and Friday: They go out of Madurai to collect money. They earn a livelihood by begging. They can earn around Rs. 40 a day. However, they work in very difficult conditions. They can walk all the day in the intense summer heat, sometimes without earning anything. But they will not stop their quest.

“It is our fate to beg, God has chosen us to do it,” they say with stoic acceptance.

Soul sisters: Madhavi and Keerthana

Keerthana and Madhavi want to show us the importance of living our lives based on our own choices. It is important for our happiness. “Don’t force others to follow you. Don’t impose rules.

Choices are personal so don’t change your own choice for anyone”, advise Keerthana Fun and fellowship : Keerthana, Madhavi and Sushmitha enjoying a chat with their neighbours and friends

Puppy Love: Keerthana with her pup

Beyond Stereotypes Interestingly, prospects for Trans Genders is getting better over the years. The state government has has instituted several welfare schemes such as housing and access to bank loans. Currently they have been given a ration card, and also voting rights. Besides, in government surveys, TGS are now included as a third option (Male, female, and TG).

People’s acceptance of TGs is now far better. However, even ten years back, they had to struggle with widespread stigma and discrimination in society.

Most people brand TGs for their involvement in sex trade.

However, according to Keerthana and Madhavi, this is so because they have few other livelihood options. With other livelihood options available, the numbers of TGs in sex trade has considerably come down.

Most TGs feel that the family is where they first begin to experience the shame and ridicule of being ‘different’ of not being ‘normal.’ For her happiness, Keerthana had to leave her own family. She tells that her family expected only money from her. She goes on to add

All in a day’s work : Madhavi washing the dishes

that she feels her family does not love her at all. Despite their rejection she loves them. But her love for them was not enough to overcome their non-acceptance of her. “They have shattered my dreams and cursed me.

I have faced a lot of worries. They have treated me so badly,” she sobs.

The Trans Gender community is like a sanctuary for Keerthana. Together with other TGs, they form a sisterhood that shares each other’s dreams, happiness, sorrow and disappointments. The community does not meet every day but only when there is a collection, someone’s death or a festival. They are a community that would like to belong entirely to society without being looked upon contemptuously.

The future of TGs in India depends on how people change their mind. Trans Genders are becoming slowly but surely integrated into society. The problem is that they are seen as abnormal. People tend to reject what is unknown to them. But what is normality? Does it make sense to say “I am normal”? Normality is only a manmade creation. When people realize it, then they will finally see Trans Gender’s as human beings.

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Madurai Messenger Culture June 2013

Sister Kala (Centre), who hosted Monica (Left) and Luca (Right) at the festival

Indian Tradition, Christian sprit:

A Catholic Village in The Heart of Tamil Nadu

Luca Scarafile, a pracitising European Catholic, writes perceptively about how Catholicism has embraced the traditions and customs of India to evolve a faith that is a celebration of joy, togetherness, and vibrancy that is Indian in assimilation and authentically Christian in spirit Text and Photos: Luca Scarafile Italy

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hance favours the prepared mind. Not surprisingly, almost by chance, I found myself in a small village surrounded by the green of the Indian forest— Vencode. Situated in the southern part of Tamil Nadu, in Kanyakumari District, this village is nearly 40 km from Nagercoil, the main town of this terribly humid part of the country. Vencode is located in the Catholic Diocese of Kottar, because here everybody is Christian and everything is anchored in a deep faith in Catholicism.

The new Vencode’s church, inaugurated at the start of the festival

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which as practiced in India, is very different from its Western counterpart.

Indian Catholicism is permeated with something deeply Indian, something that you must experience without prejudices, with your soul and your body. It is something which has its roots in the Indian culture, in particular in the Indian approach to religion, which is difficult to imagine for a person coming from a Western country .

I have been invited here by a Catholic nun, Sister Kala, who I met in Italy and who advised me to be here on April 13-14, 2013, on the occasion of the celebration of the feast of Saint Francis Xavier, patron saint of Vencode. For me, a practising Catholic from Italy, it was surely a worthwhile occasion, an opportunity to understand how people live as Christians in India.

Anchored in Indian tradition and customs A Catholic village in India? Some questions could spontaneously arise about such a topic. A Western reader could consider it strange. On the other hand, a Hindu could think that the villages here practise the same kind of Catholicism as in Europe today. However, the situation is more complicated. Indeed, an informed Westerner should know that Catholics represent 1.6 percent of the Indian population, that is to say around 17.6 million people, which is not a number of little significance, which makes India a country of utmost importance to the Catholic church’s future. Further, we must consider that the most of the Christians live in south India, where, starting from the 16th century, the Portuguese colonizers launched a massive conversion to Christianity. So, it’s clear that it may not be impossible, although rare, to find a village with a Catholic majority in southern India.

But it is more difficult to find an adequate answer to the ideas that a Hindu probably has about Indian Catholicism,

Indian Catholicism is permeated with something deeply Indian, something that you must experience without prejudices, with your soul and your body.

When I speak of the difference between the Indian and Western Catholicism, I don’t refer to theological positions or to a particular set of beliefs and habits. The rituals at which I was present in an Indian Catholic church were completely in accordance with the Catholic church’s formal rules. However, Indian Catholicism also contains certain aspects that could be seen as strongly at odds with the authentic Christian spirit. In fact, if you search the Internet and in magazines for reports about the Indian Church, you will find above all, condemnation of the assimilation into Indian Catholicism of many

It is something which has its roots in the Indian culture, in particular in the Indian approach to religion, which is difficult to imagine for a person coming from a Western country .

customs which derive from the ancient Indian tradition. Among other things, the prevalence of the caste system in the local Catholic church stands out. Although around 70 percent of the Indian Catholics are dalits, many researchers have confirmed that in some Indian parishes, especially in Tamil Nadu and Kerala, they are not allowed to read the Holy Scripture during the Mass or to receive Holy Communion with other believers. Further, statistics say that only six of the 200 Indian Bishops are of dalit origin compared to the number of dalit Christians.

I am happy to say that my experience is not congruent with this horrific data.

Quite the contrary, in fact! When I

write of the differences between Indian and Western Catholicism, I do this only to highlight the distinctive trait where emotions play a major role in the Christian message, which seems to me both authentic and profound.

A spirit of togetherness The strong sense of community, which is uniquely Indian, is one thing that my stay in Vencode showed me. Deep inside that forest, life thrives without loneliness, bound by a close-knit and cohesive community, which makes everything very different from a usual Western village. Everybody knows one another and respects the role he has inside the community. In fact more than a village, it looks like an extended

Madurai Messenger Culture June 2013

family. It is not only because here people consider their cousins as their brothers and sisters, nor is it because many natives of Vencode come back here every year for the festival of its patron Saint Francis, which in a way becomes the annual occasion to visit their own family, but because it is an occasion for them to celebrate their own heart-felt sense of belonging to the community.

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Very often, how we see something is not so important, but how we feel it as well. Observing how things appear is not as important as connecting with the underlying spirit and the emotions.

This is the reason that even though the celebration of the feast of St. Francis Xavier which I have been witness to is not as enthralling as other festivals I have seen in my life, there is something that makes it special, something that regards the joyful devotion shown by everybody. Every detail seems to compose a symphony that constantly expresses the happiness of being an essential part of a group.

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This happiness must be even more intense this year, because the festival’s beginning, April 5, coincided with the inauguration of the new parish church.

So the festival’s final moment, the night between 13th and 14th April, was also the occasion to thank all those who contributed to the construction of the building where this community daily celebrates its Christian identity. Kottar Diocese Bishop, Peter Remigius, was present, as were at least eight other priests, ten nuns of different orders, and common people, at least 10,000 besides the 5,000 persons who live in Vencode.

A confluence of believers: Women and children during the Mass

The new Vencode’s church, inaugurated at the start of the festival

real succession of music, songs and celebration.

Christian, yet truly Indian The religious functions, the Adoration ritual at 9.00 pm and the Mass at 2.00 am were unusually very long for a Western worshipper, accustomed to the standard duration of the functions, but none of the faithful seemed to be impatient or bored, not even the children: everyone paid attention to every single word until the last moment of the ceremony, that ended in a

At the back of the church, during the preparation of the chariots’ parade

Moreover, people didn’t leave the place immediately: they stayed there chatting, laughing together, hugging each other, savouring the positive energy, the wave of love and togetherness that the Mass had created. And the women’s saris and flowers, the flowers adorning the altar, and even the nuns’ dresses, all combined to bring about a triumph of colours. The hymns everybody sang and the drums’ pulsating with rhythm as the exultant crowd the pulled chariots with Saint Francis Xavier, the Virgin Mary and Saint Sebastian produced a triumph of music. Everything showed a peculiar

“The concern of the local church of Kottar is to get people get beyond a fear-based and conditional experience of God. The focus is rather on getting people experience the joy of the unconditional love of God and the liberation and power it brings to make other-centered commitments.”

Indian way to their religiousness: everything is joy and the will to celebrate together, as a community, is a special form of happiness.

Looking back at this festival as a Western observer, I must certainly draw a conclusion: in this small village, an actual return to the authentic spirit of Christianity’s Spirit is really undeniable.

Are they aware of what seems so evident to an external observer?

Yes, they are, as the website of the Diocese of Kottar, to which Vencode belongs, says, “The concern of the local church of Kottar is to get people get beyond a fear-based and conditional

experience of God. The focus is rather on getting people experience the joy of the unconditional love of God and the liberation and power it brings to make other-centered commitments.”

Maybe, it is this not gloomy and notfear-based attitude towards God and holy rituals that the Western believer should learn. Certainly, I have become a sincere admirer of this joyful and vivid approach to religion: it’s this full-ofcolour and musical way to show the happiness of belonging to a community that seems to me authentic Christian and, at the same time, deeply Indian.

Madurai Messenger Summer Splash June 2013

Summer Quenching Secrets

immediately and makes it easier to release the heat through the skin. So, if we drink something hot, we became hotter than the environment and our body gives out heat. On the contrary, if we drink iced beverages, our body grows cold, but in this way the gap between our temperature and the external environment increases, so that after a few minutes we are warmer than earlier. “It’s for this reason that hot beverages are much more thirstquenching,” says Muthu Selvam. I wanted to test it and it confirmed Selvam’s pet theory. After a good cup of tea I feel really better and the muggy Madurai weather seems more tolerable.

Monica Cristini wanders around the streets of Madurai in the scorching summer and discovers little known summer strategies. Some of them debunk popular myths such as cold liquids are ideal thirst quenchers. She also discovers the magical properties of the water melon, coconut and jigarthanda and finally warns naïve foreign tourists of the perils of trying to live like an Indian in an Indian summer!

Text: Monica Cristini, Italy Photos: Luca Scarafile, Italy A huge mountain of watermelons

Malayandi, the 65-year-old coconut seller

“In Western culture, you are used to drinking cool drinks to get refreshed during summer. But I can guarantee you it’s a really stupid thing. Our body is like a glass. If the glass is warm and you put cold water into it, it will crack,” says T Rajendran, water melon seller

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Muthu Selvam, the 24-year-old beverages seller

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veryone had told me: don’t go to India in April! Its summer there and you definitely can’t survive the heat!

But opportunities often arise only once and I couldn’t risk wasting such a rare opportunity. Although I told myself that I would certainly “get used” to Indian weather, the reality was far hotter than my worst fears! Yet once I came to Madurai, I pepped myself with “sunny” thoughts like if you want to survive, you have to adapt, always keeping in mind that it’s only for a small period.

But what about people who have to face this every year, every summer, the everyday difficulties this weather entails? It’s this curiosity that has led me to go down the streets asking people about their beating the heat strategies.

Summer wisdom I meet Muthu Selvam, 24, who sells fruit juice. Sipping cool mango juice, I listen to his Oriental wisdom.

“In Western culture, you are used to drinking cool drinks to get refreshed during summer. But I can guarantee you it’s a really stupid thing. Our body is like a glass. If the glass is warm and you put cold water into it, it will crack.”

While it is certainly most important to keep the body well hydrated, the best things to have during this season are hot tea or coffee. In addition to providing the human body with water and sugar, hot tea causes blood vessels to dilate

Fruits, a summer lifeline Muthu Selvam wants to reveal another gem of a little known secret. “While you Westerners eat fruits during the whole year, in India the situation is quite different: fruits are very expensive in other seasons, so many people eat them only in summer.” Indeed, it’s precisely in summer that Indian fruits ripen, therefore in this period mangoes, coconuts, watermelons, bananas, and oranges are available in plenty. But in winter, the situation is quite different.

Hence fruits are imported and this makes it costly as well.

Malayandi, a 65-year-old coconut seller on the road connecting Madurai to Alagar Kovil, tells us the same thing.

“Our eating habits are the same during the whole year. The only thing that distinguishes our summers from our winters is coconut, and in general, every kind of fruit and fruit juices.” But in Malayandi’s opinion, the coconut has special properties that other fruits don’t have. Eating the coconut and drinking its juice regularly purifies our body and is an effective remedy for digestive problems. Furthermore, it contains many minerals, which means that in summer, coconut water can provide us those minerals we lose by excessive sweating.

Water melon: God’s Own Ambrosia However, the coconut is not the only fruit that is an all-purpose summer fruit.

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Madurai Messenger Summer Splash June 2013

because he doesn’t want to, but simply because he really can’t. He explains, “I know how to mix ingredients while I’m preparing Jigarthanda, but it’s impossible for me to tell you the exact quantities. It’s only a matter of having an eye for it; it’s a matter of habit.”

Indeed, maybe he learned as a child to prepare the drink, since it was his father who started this business in Madurai. And, we are surprised to see a poster of a Tamil movie near his stand in which he says he appeared with his shop. Their business, unlike those of other watermelon sellers, is a 365-day job. Business is hectic in summer thanks to the need for locals to quench their thirst and poor intrepid foreigners who, like us, decide to face the sultry climate of this wonderful city.

I’m wandering around the streets of Madurai, sticky and sweaty, in search of information for my article, and Indians look at me with compassion and tell me, “We are used to this weather, we don’t feel any suffering”

In such sweltering weather, it seems that I’m the only one to suffer such a climate: how is it possible? I’m astonished. I’m wandering around the streets of Madurai, sticky and sweaty, in search of information for my article, and Indians look at me with compassion and tell me, “We are used to this weather, we don’t feel any suffering.”

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Our interview with Satyaraj,a jigarthanda seller in the city centre

“While you Westerners eat fruits during the whole year, in India the situation is quite different: fruits are very expensive in other seasons, so many people eat them only in summer.” Says Muthu Selvan, coconut vendor

The summer fruit par excellence is watermelon. T. Rajendran, 52, is one of the most famous watermelon sellers of Madurai, who has been managing the family fruit business since 1984.

Although it is a seasonal business, it is profitable. During the four months in a year when water melons are available, Rajendran’s sales is brisk, thanks to the reputation of his business and the quality of the product. A stomach friendly fruit rich in sugars and with purifying effects for the whole body, watermelon seems to be the best energizer to beat the Indian heat. T. Rajendran’s t specialty is watermelon juice, a heavenly mix of cold minced watermelon and syrup, one of the best fruit juices I have ever tried in my whole life!

Jigarthanda: Simply delicious One of the most typical, famous and inimitable specialties of Madurai is Jigarthanda. This particular drink, part liquid and part solid, , is made of syrup, a special kind of jelly and milk combined with precision to create a really exquisite and gentle mouth watering creamy concoction. Every ingredient is natural, homemade and also very healthy: jelly and milk are a panacea, especially for stomach problems.

But Satyaraj, the 27-year-old owner of a well-known jigarthanda stall won’t part with the recipe, and it’s not

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But what’s interesting is that most habits we consider as “remedies against the heat” are for Indians with sensible tropical lifestyles: they avoid smoking, they drink hot beverages, they wear only comfortable cotton clothes, some walk without footwear, and eat food like rice and spicy food—all useful against infections or illnesses in general.

Doing these things, they don’t always think about the heat; it’s their typical lifestyle.

Well, maybe here’s a tip for any naive tourist: if you try to acquire such a life style, if you try to behave in India like an Indian, you probably won’t have any problem in bearing the heat! But the question is: are you willing to forego your Western clothes and wear a sari or your first lungi? Your well-being depends only on your adaptability to widely divergent habits.

T.Rajendran, the 52-year-old watermelon seller

Madurai Messenger Causes June 2013

Sahodari team, along with its founder, Kalki (sitting)

Sahodari Foundation:

One Big Family

Ella Verkuijten talks to Trans Gender activist Kalki Subramanian, whose initiative, the Sahodari Foundation is a platform to articulate the needs and concerns of Trans Genders and their right to a life of dignity and respect Text : Ella Verkuijten, The Netherlands Photos: Kalki Subramaniam

According to estimates, India has the highest numbers of TGs in Asia. In Madurai alone, there are around 1500 TGs. Most of them are not accepted by their family and have to cope with constant ridicule, violence and sometimes even death threats from their parents or siblings.

W

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hen I was younger, I encountered a Trans Gender woman on my way to school every morning in Holland. She usually wore a red skirt, a black sleeveless top and high heels. Her long, wavy brown hair hung loose around her face. She looked fairly masculine. Every morning, we shared a glance. I, a child unfamiliar with Trans Genders, would look at her with interest and she would gaze at me with a look I could never figure out. Maybe she didn’t appreciate me looking at her, or maybe she did. I do know that from our first encounter onwards, I started to wonder what it was like for her in my hometown. Did many people stare at her? Was she discriminated against? Did she have people supporting her? I never dared to ask her these questions.

I could imagine though that her life as a Trans Gender in Holland was far better than her counterparts elsewhere in the world as Holland is a country that’s incredibly open about sexuality and sexual identity. I did have a difficult time imagining being a TG in countries with a different culture, like India. Sexuality is hardly talked about, and is not taught in many schools and homosexuality is still seen as an illness by most people.

I can only visualise how horrific it must be being a sexual minority in this country and how much a stable support system is needed.

A lifeline Fortunately, the Sahodari Foundation provides such a support system. From 2008 onwards, the close “family” operating the organisation has been providing support, affection, advice and a safe space for TGs in Tamil Nadu.

Further, Kalki Subramanian, the founder of Sahodari, has spoken at numerous seminars, schools and other institutions to increase awareness and acceptance.

Sahodari is even working on convincing the government to give equal legal rights for TGs. All of this, they do with minimum funding. However, till I met Kalki, I had no idea how impressive it really is.

Sahodari Team at CREA conference - Kathmandu, Nepal, April 2011

“When I was younger, I witnessed many of my friends enduring rape, beatings and depression. Because of this, I knew from a very early age that I wanted to do something about this and fight for our rights,” Kalki Subramianan, the proud founder of Sahodari tells us

“TGs are thrown out from their biological families. Unable to bear the discrimination and violence, many of us also choose to leave,” Kalki writes in the website of Sahodari (www.sahodari. org). Because of their early expulsion from home, 90 percent of TGs don’t finish their secondary school education.

This results in many of them indulging in begging or sex work. The Sahodari foundation dreams of a life of dignity and respect for Trans Genders—a life without having to engage in sex work or sleeping and begging on the streets.

As Kalki affirms; “Everybody has the right to live with dignity.”

Towards a life of dignity The Sahodari foundation was established in 2008 and has been running successfully for the past five years. “When I was younger, I witnessed many of my friends enduring rape, beatings and depression. Because of this, I knew from a very early age that I wanted to do something about this and fight for our rights,” Kalki Subramianan, the proud founder of Sahodari tells us.

Besides being an organization, they are also family.

Kalki particularly emphasises the latter. “It is a very personal foundation. We don’t work from an office, don’t hire any staff members and don’t provide salaries. Together, we are one big family”

Members of the Sahodari Foundation

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Madurai Messenger Causes June 2013

Women’s day advocacy at Rajiv Gandhi Institute for Youth Development -Kalki

and colleges to teach society about all the issues that the education system failed to enlighten their students with.

Kalki has spoken at countless seminars, schools, universities and other institutions to tell her story and that of many other TGs in India. This way, they wish to make people understand that there is nothing strange about them; they were simply born in the wrong body.

Informed efforts

Pongal celebrations at Sahodari Foundation 2012

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“The Trans Gender community is overall very articulate and artistic. Creativity is an excellent way of expressing oneself so we provide them a way to express and make themselves heard,” Kalki states

For the last five years, the foundation, consisting of twelve members, has had their hands full. Together, they strive to do everything in their power to help TGs in any way they can. Besides being an organisation, they are also family.

Kalki particularly emphasises the latter.

“It is a very personal foundation. We don’t work from an office, don’t hire any staff members and don’t provide salaries. Together, we are one big family.” While Kalki would certainly like to expand, she insists on continuing to work in this personal manner.

Art to articulate Nevertheless, what does Sahodari do to assist the Trans Gender community in their journey of struggle to happiness and acceptance? First, the foundation has several projects to help TGs in several ways. Due to rejection, discrimination and poverty, psychological help is highly needed

amongst the Trans Gender community.

Sahodari provides this help by offering creative workshops consisting of dance, music and art.

“The Trans Gender community is overall very articulate and artistic. Creativity is an excellent way of expressing oneself so we provide them a way to express and make themselves heard,” Kalki states.

Mapping their lives Further, Sahodari provides guidance and counseling support. Most TGs are so intent on becoming a woman physically that it is the only aspect they focus on, forgetting the need for a plan subsequent to their reassignment surgery.

“Most of them don’t even have an answer when we inquire about their future plans. We ask them if they plan to do sex work or begging because that’s what most of them end up doing”

Kalki explains. “Therefore, we always tell them they need to make a plan first, and then have the surgery.”

Besides psychological support, Sahodari also works to help in the future of TGs. One of their first concerns is getting them off the streets and into paid employment. An excellent way to do this is, of course, through education.

“Educating Trans Genders by providing them with skill development programmes can change their lives for better.” The foundation offers to teach TGs skills such as writing, reading and English. Kalki even admits that she is planning to open a school for TGs. “We just don’t have enough funding yet.”

Another of Sahodari’s projects builds the capacity of Trans Genders by creating job opportunities. Trans Genders joining the Butterfly Project are provided with

Kalki has spoken at countless seminars, schools, universities and other institutions to tell her story and that of many other Trans Genders in India. This way, they wish to make people understand that there is nothing strange about them; they were simply born in the wrong body materials to make their own jewellry and crafts to sell. After training, provided by the Shasun Jain College for women, the participants use their newly gained skills to create beautiful jewelry pieces. With this project, Sahodari wants them to become financially independent and “live a dignified life.”

Like most women, numerous TGs have one particularly important future plan in their mind—marriage. The women often have a difficult time finding a partner who is willing to be with them for life as most men only want sexual pleasure.

Eventually, they end the relationship and marry a different woman. With their new matrimonial website, Sahodari attempts to help TGs find men who are serious about marrying them. Unfortunately, there is a lack of funding.

“I already get so many e-mails of men seeking to find a Trans Gender woman to

marry,” Kalki affirms. “We just have to wait for funding to finalise the website.”

Awareness, the key to change Besides their work on all the different projects aimed directly at the Trans Gender individual, they are also improving their rights and decreasing the degree of stigma of discrimination.

Awareness is the key. Unfamiliarity with TGs causes most people in India to simply disapprove of the idea; (‘my brother is a man so why would he dress up and act like a woman?’) According to Kalki, the problem starts at school.

“Schools don’t focus on issues such as sexuality. So people are generally ignorant about that. That’s where the judgment comes from. You can be highly educated but still don’t know anything about Trans Genders.” For this reason, Sahodari works with schools

There is more. Besides psychological support and spreading awareness, Sahodari aims even higher. “At the moment we are working on convincing the government to grant equal rights to TGs,” Kalki states. After sexual reassignment surgery, the women need new passports and drivers’ licenses.

Further, they need to be identified as people and be included in having equal rights just like any other citizen. Using Kalki’s skills as a mass communication specialist, Sahodari focuses on the legal rights of TGs. “Due to my education, we are able to approach the government in the correct way and get our message across in a clear and convincing manner.” Kalki says proudly. “I know how to bring a tear to a judge’s eye.”

That judge isn’t the only one impressed by the Sahodari foundation. On the ride back to Madurai I am quiet, thinking about those 1500 TGs living in the city I am about to enter. Most of them beg or are engaged in sex trade in order to feed themselves.

The journey of the Sahodari Foundation has already crossed several milestones.

But they still have a long way to go.

However, looking at the past, the courageous members of the family have made significant impact in voicing the concerns and needs of the TGs. I also think about the woman back in my hometown. After a few months, I never saw her again. I start to ask myself the same questions I did all those years ago. Did she have a job?

Is she okay? If Holland has such a foundation as Sahodari, I’m sure she is.

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Madurai Messenger Film Review June 2013

Narthaki:

Celebrating Differences

Through a Different Lens

A sensitive and moving film by acclaimed director Santhosh Sivan on Trans genders, told through a seemingly simple narrative of a niece’s search for a her uncle, who ran away from home because of his sexual identity. The film goes beyond popular sterotypes of trans genders and presents them as human as any of us

Text: Nanami Kato Japan

Title: Narthaki Director: G.Vijayapadma Language: Tamil Year of Release: 2011

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Nanami Kato reviews the Tamil Film, Narthaki, about Trans Genders, and finds it an insightful portrayal of the highs and lows of this little understood community Narthaki flim poster -The movie Narthaki (2011) directed by G Vijayapadma

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he Indian silver screen almost never featured Trans Genders until recently. A minority group, they are often subject to ridicule in Indian society because of their sexual orientation. The movie Narthaki (2011) directed by G Vijayapadma is one of the few films that deals with the lives of TGs with sensitivity.

Text: Jessie Rouane France

Different Desires The story is about a boy named Subbu (Aswin), who was grows up in a strict family in a small village. And as he grows up, he has doubts about his own gender identity. He prefers his mother’s dance to his father’s martial arts. He even imitates his mother’s dance movements secretly. It’s at this time that the first stirrings of his desire to be a girl begin to surface.

However, as he grows up, his childhood friend Meena hopes to get married to him. But Subbu spurns her love. Confessing his desire to be a girl to his father, he escapes to Mumbai. He changes his name to Kalki and undergoes castration. With help of other Trans Genders, Kalki learns classical dance. She feels the pleasure of living as a woman. However, one day she gets molested by her customer. Then she decides to leave Mumbai and learn classical dance from another dance master.

Emerging stronger as a result of handling many such difficulties with courage, she decides to help TG children who have a troubled confused childhood because of the confusion and family probems caused by their gender identity.

Most Trans Genders face stigma and discrimination in society. If you watch this movie, you will also be aware of their pain and pleasure; their joys and sadness; dreams and desires. G V Prakash Kumar’s sensual music adds to the movie’s appeal.

The well known Trans Gender activist Kalki plays a cameo in the film. A Trans Gender herself, the film mars Kalki’s debut in feature films. Overall, the film provides an insightful viewing experience of the life of Trans Genders.

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irected by Santhosh Sivan whose earlier film The Terrorist (2008) won critical acclaim, Navarasa is an unique movie, a blend of fiction and documentary, which deals with a subject rarely seen on screen: the case of Hijras, now widely known as Trans Genders. Through the story of a young girl who looks for her uncle, Santhosh Sivan makes us discover this community still unknown and often persecuted, without ever passing judgement.

Title: Navarasa Director: Santhosh Sivan Language: Tamil Year of Release: 2008 29

A different perspective The movie begins with the story of the main character, Shweta, a 13 year old girl whose daily life is upset by her first period. It is an important step which marks her passage into adulthood. A new world which she does not understand and frightens her is when she discovers her uncle Gautham dressing like a woman. When he runs away to attend the Koovagam festival and begins his life as a woman, Shweta decides to look for him. Along the way, she meets Bobby Darling and other Trans Genders whose heartrending stories help her to understand the questioning and the sufferings of her uncle and all their community.

By adopting the external point of view of a young girl just out of the innocence of the childhood, Santhosh Sivan reveals an incredible sharpness of mind. Compelled to face something new which breaks our usual social mores and norms, we are like Shweta, ignorant children who need to be made aware of the differences. This movie is a coming of age story, reminiscent of the adventures of Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland.

Through the looking glass and what Shweta found there Throughout the movie, we can see subtle references of Lewis Carroll’s universe. Like Alice who pursues the White Rabbit, Shweta must endure a succession of ordeals in a world which seems strange and evasive to meet her uncle. We share not only the main character’s emotions, but also those of the trangenders who play themsleves in the film. Throughout the film, the conflict between Gautham’s family who wants him to live like a man and his own desire to live the life of a woman is portrayed powerfully. When we meet Trans Genders, we often wonder who they are. Women trapped in men’s bodies or third sex, it never seems to have a clear and definitive answer. But the question “Who am I?“ which

Navarasa poster - the dilemma of Trans Genders

Madurai Messenger Film Review June 2013

Pic caption.

Shweta does not know that her meeting with Bobby Darling will change her life

A Metamorphosis An incredibly powerful and moving memoir of A. Revathi, a Trans Gender, who with candour and honesty, describes her metamorphosis. Like a butterfly, she emerges from the cocoon of being a female trapped in a male body to a woman, who lives life fearlessly Text: Ella Verkuijten The Netherlands

Title: The Truth About Me: A Hijra Life Story Author: A. Revathi

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obsesses the character of Gautham throughout the movie summarises perfectly their internal conflicts. With Navarasa, Santhosh Sivan asks several deeper questions. Although the movie disappoints with its rather abrupt ending, nevertheless, it is an original artistic choice which expresses clearly Santhosh Sivan’s will to tell the story withut imposing his views or assign judgement. Through such a compassionate approach, the director helps the viewer to go beyond differences and instead glimpse the human being in each of us.

Publisher: Penguin Global

Through such a compassionate approach, the director helps the viewer to go beyond differences and instead glimpse the human being in each of us.

Year of Publishing: 2010 Price: 299

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efore reading A. Revathi’s The Truth About Me: A Hijra Life Story, I tried to imagine how rigid and painful the physical transition of becoming a woman would be for a ‘man’. Besides this, I was eager to learn about the psychological struggles of a Trans Gender. I figured A. Revathi’s autobiography would surely give me all the answers.

The Truth About Me: A Hijra Life Story poignantly narrates the lifetime of conflicts Trans Genders have to face. In her book, A. Revathi embodies her endless struggles as a Trans Gender living in India.

The promise of hope Since The Terrorist (1999), Santhosh Sivan has proved that he controls the play of shade and light which perfectly expresses the human ambivalence, a recurrent theme in his movies. This contrast had been particularly worked in Navarasa, not only through the scenes but also through the characters. When Shweta closes the door of her house to follow her uncle, she leaves a decor plunged in dark, filled with shadows which surround Gautham’s personality that everyone tries to hide.

Gradually, when Shweta meets other persons, she sees the world which surrounds her become more illuminated and colourful. The movie derives its psychological depth through the opposition created by the polar characters of Shweta and Bobby Darling. Even if the story is really simple these two main characters merit that we watch the movie until the end.

We feel close to Shweta and share her distress when her love for her uncle clashes with her family values and we also share her hope of a better future, a feeling that expresses itself through Bobby Darling and the other Trans Genders through their personality, dreams and desires.

Navarasa offers the interwoven tapestry of a multitude of characters, all unique and different but who find themselves through this sentence: “I have faith in the future”—a message which invites us to accept differences and clelebrate our similarities as people.

Painful struggle

Revathi writes how perturbed she was about her preference to play “only girl’s games,” her feminine behaviour and her fascination with the young boys. “I was a boy and yet I felt I could love other boys. Was this right or wrong?”

As a young boy, Revathi, then called Doraisamy, grew up in a small town in Namakkal taluk together with her sister and three brothers. Even as a child, Revathi felt that there is something ‘different’ about her. She explains how she somehow simply knew she was a woman. “I did not know how to be like a boy,” she writes. This caused a great deal of confusion for Revathi. In her book, she writes how perturbed she was about her preference to play “only girl’s games,” her feminine behaviour and her fascination with the young boys.

“I was a boy and yet I felt I could love other boys. Was this right or wrong?”

Not being able to cope with the confusion combined with the ridicule and alienation by her fellow classmates and her family, Revathi decided to discontinue her education and traveled to the surrounding villages where she came in contact with other Trans Genders. Here, the long process of her becoming an adult woman began. She describes how she left her hometown and encountered her several gurus (mentors) and other friends in the Trans Gender community. After a period of begging for money at the local shops, Revathi’s second

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Madurai Messenger Book Review June 2013

A. Valayapatti:

guru arranges her sex reassignment surgery, finally turning her, physically, into a woman.

The transition

The Damocles Sword of Technology

Due to a lack of education, Revathi found it impossible to find a suitable job. Further, she describes how her physical needs could not be answered, as her guru did not approve of marriage or relationships with the opposite sex. This resulted in her walking the streets as a sex worker. Though it was a deliberate decision, she found her work tough as it was difficult to escape from that profession. Her description of this period in her life is raw, honest and incredibly moving. She candidly describes the dangers and violence she had to cope with, without glossing over any harsh details.

Luca Scarafile wanders around A. Valayapatti, a quiet little village near Alagar Koil. While he is happy to note that tradition and modernity co exist in this tropical hamlet, he is disturbed to note the rapid invasion of technology that threatens to wipe out centuries of culture and tradition. Meanwhile, he hopes fervently that his worst fears will not come true Text and Photos: Luca Scarafile

Because of her desperate need for affection and acceptance from her family and her devotion to them, she returned to her hometown several times. She had to cope with ridicule, discrimination and beatings as her family had a hard time accepting her as Revathi instead of Doraisamy. However, throughout the book, there is some progress visible in the manner in which Revathi is treated by her family. Her parents and sister seem more reluctant to accept her conversion and, at a certain point, some compliance is definitely visible.

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As a reader, you can clearly see Revathi’s growth. In the beginning,she is timid, undergoes several beatings from her brother and only makes a feeble attempt to stand up for herself. The process of her growing in confidence and acquiring the ability to protect herself becomes clearly visible as the story progresses. After her sex reassignment surgery, Revathi seems more confident. She starts to speak her mind, verbally fight back and independently makes decisions for herself. This does not mean, however, that she wasn’t a strong character to begin with. From the outset, she always had a certain drive to pursue her own choices and happiness that made even me regret some chances in life that I have let slip by.

A powerful narrative Despite the heavy subject and abundance of misery, The Truth About Me: A Hijra Life Story is a quick read. The short sentence structures and absence of excessive academic language makes it easy to read through fairly quickly.

Frequently, her thoughts and feelings diverge through the flow of the story and some repetition of her needs and concerns is not uncommon. However, this is not necessarily a negative aspect. The use of informal language combined with the first person narrative creates the impression that Revathi is talking to the reader. She sums up the events and her experiences in such an honest, real and courageous manner that the reader is bound to feel not only her sorrow, pain, but also joy, with her.

The aspect of time, however, is somewhat ignored throughout the novel. Revathi mentions her age merely a few

Italy Men praying for rain

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From the outset, Revathi always had a certain drive to pursue her own choices and happiness that made even me regret some chances in life that I have let slip by times at important events but not nearly enough for a curious reader such as me. I regularly wondered how many years had gone by after one of Revathi’s life altering events and could only speculate about her age. Nevertheless, the guessing was not too challenging due to a few time indications that were given. It certainly did not distract me too much from Revathi’s intriguing life.

The Truth About Me: A Hijra Life Story is a daring book.

Revathi’s ongoing battle for acceptance and respect in society as well as her family is described vividly and almost as if being told directly to the reader. While reading, I felt a great deal of empathy and respect for the narrator and the book certainly got me thinking about the struggles of Trans Genders and I am confident I am not the only one who was touched by it. Overall, it is an admirable contribution to the general understanding and respect of Trans Genders in India.

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here are places that appear to be forgotten by everyone. There are places that an external observer would consider only an ‘appendage’ to a more important place. This is true of A. Valayapatti, a small village near the foothills of the Alagar malai that

seems to be similar to many other Indian villages. At first look, it seems to have nothing special except that it is located near the important Alagar Kovil temple.

Driving down from Madurai, we didn’t really have this particular village in mind.

However, as we were going around the streets in the neighbourhood of the temple, we meet a young woman selling fruits with her 15-year-old son.

She told us she was born in Valayapatti: to discover her reality and her life more closely, we decided to explore this village.

Madurai Messenger Village Voices June 2013

Our interview with P. Periyapullan, Valayapatti Panchayat President

Indeed, she doesn‘t complain about anything, she loves this village and would never abandon it: she doesn‘t require anything special, only water from the sky

spot for many Hindus, especially in the days which immediately precede the peak Chithirai festival.

Place and Population

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A. Valayapatti is located around 21 kms north from Madurai, less than 1 km from the famous Thirumaliruncholai or Alagar temple. Importantly, it must not be confused with a bigger village of the same name, which lies 17 km south from Madurai. If you search internet for A. Valayapatti, you won‘t find anything: there isn‘t even the possibility of being able to locate it on Google maps.

Nevertheless, thanks to the help to the local Panchayat president, we discovered that A. Valayapatti, along with six other villages (Alagar Kovil, Kottaivasal, Gopurakundram, Konavarayanpatti, Atatnampatti, Nayakarkullam) is part of the Valayapatti Panchayat, which has, on the whole, about 1500 people.

Recently, a new village, Tirumalnagar, has asked to be annexed to this Panchayat, whose population, therefore, could reach 1800.

People and labour

The modern and the ancient: A television antenna fixed onto the roof of a hut

The first person I met was the woman selling fruits with her son. She was sitting behind her fruit stall on the winding street which leads to the Alagar temple, which is a pilgrimage

Troupes of monkeys congregated at the woman‘s stand, cheekily trying to grab a fruit. Some pilgrims walked through this mountain road, wearing festive clothes and singing joyfully.

All around, the luxuriant green of the Alagar Kovil Reserve forest soothed our spirits. Everything gave me a feeling of cheerfulness and light heartedness: everything except that woman, her slight son and her stand, where the flies lay on the few mangos, gooseberries and corn cobs for sale.

Her name is Chinnaponnu and she is 30 years old. “I always wake up at 4 a.m. every day. I do the housework and then come here from A. Valayapatti. I must be here at 9 am and usually remain until 6 pm, hoping to eke out a living,” says Chinnaponnu about a typical day in her life. She has four sons and that now she alone must provide for her family.

The first “green house” in Valayapatti

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Chinnaponnu, the 30-vear-old fruit seller from Valayapatti

“This year has been very difficult for us. Without rain, there‘s no possibility for my husband to find a job in agriculture.” It‘s soon clear that here that all livelihoods revolve around timely and adequate rain. Indeed, she doesn‘t complain about anything, she loves this village and would never abandon it: she doesn‘t require anything special, only water from the sky.

So, I begin to understand the air of sadness that seems to cover over her face. She reveals much more than her

Water, water everywhere in Valayapatti

Madurai Messenger Village Voices June 2013

P. Periyapullan, Valayapatti Panchayat President

Recording iris prints of a citizen for the national ID scheme

The kind Panchayat president confesses to me that in his opinion “Phone, internet and television are changing the private lives of the people in villages but not our community way of life”

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real age, while the 15-year-old son, strangely, seems again only a child, little and skinny as he is. Both of them transmit a great dignity and, at the same time, a tender desperation, that they try to hide under their shy smiles.

Just as I‘m greeting her, I feel the truth of the words of Pier Paolo Pasolini, a famous Italian writer and director, who after his journey in India wrote: “Every time you leave a person in India, you have the impression of leaving a moribund who is on the point of drowning among the scraps of a shipwreck.” I hadn‘t felt this sensation yet, but in this moment it represents the truth for me. This woman has been my first impression of A. Valayapatti: I have to understand better.

We go directly into the village. Here we can speak with a 28-year-old man, Raja, who talks to us, in front of his simple house surrounded by innumerable mango trees: “We usually sell peanuts, but the lack of rain during

this dry season has affected us and we have been able to cultivate only mangoes this year.” Then, I ask him how people live here and if he is pleased about his way of life. He resolutely explains, “I‘m happy that we live as a united community. We always try to help one another. Living in a community means taking on our own responsibilities and to take care of others.

What is more is that I have the possibility to live amidst nature: here we lack nothing, it‘s much healthier than in the city, and I think that soon the village will develop.” Considering the difficulty of the living conditions that everybody must face here, such an attachment to the village seems quite touching.

Problems Everybody loves this village. The main problem is water scarcity. But what have the local administrators done to solve such a pressing problem? We speak about this with the local Panchayat president P. Periyapullan, who tells us, “At the moment, we have only ten tanks for the whole Panchayat, but we

have asked for eleven new tanks. The government has agreed and soon we‘ll have more water.” The president is very satisfied with the government support.

“We regularly receive free rice and the government has also provided free goats and a free mixer-grinder.

In this way, those who can‘t work in agriculture because of the lack of rain are able to have some other kind of sustenance.” This doesn‘t mean that everybody now has a job, but at least it helps people meet their basic needs.

Prospects The Panchayat vice-president, A. Darmaraj, showed me around the village. In the main square, near the new drama-stage in the shade of the temple, the men huddle round: they are praying for rain. For them, time is only an endless wait, based on the cyclic cadence of the nature. In contrast to this absorbed group of men, the first green house of this small village has already been built. Its walls are made by natural materials and the solar panels make it

energy self-sufficient. Such an example of tradition and technology co existing fascinated me. It is a lighting of the future among the dirty roads and huts of Valayapatti, so that tradition and new prospects look each other in the mirror.

put to danger: In the near future, won‘t people prefer to spend their time in front of television instead of speaking to one another? I sincerely hope I am wrong.

Surely, technological development must not and cannot be arrested, even for a village like A. Valayapatti.

But it’s not always that tradition and modernity meet each other. Sometimes they clash, like some of those huts made with thatched roofs from which, strangely, appear some television antennae. Seeing those huts, it occurs to me that maybe the community living we saw in such a village could be swept away by technological progress. The kind Panchayat president confesses to me that in his opinion “Phone, internet and television are changing the private lives of the people in villages but not our community way of life.”

To confirm this, there is a lasting image that remains imprinted on my mind.

On the particular day we were at A. Valayapatti, the identification process of the people in the village for the national unique ID card was underway and everybody had to go to the local school to have their fingerprints and iris prints recorded: the operators were registering the iris prints of an old man with a walking stick, dressed in traditional clothes. A young boy, wearing a modern shirt and a hat, is waiting his turn.

My experience as a Westerner suggests that it‘s impossible to divide public and private sphere, and that soon this spirit of community, which represents the soul of an Indian village, could be seriously

We need to remember that while they can register the physical identity of that man, will they be able to conserve his cultural identity? Will the traditional sense of community life be kept intact?

Or can that boy who is waiting for his turn can be considered as the symbol of a future that inevitably will remove every trace of old tradition? Only time will be able to answer. Meanwhile we are only allowed to hope.

Raja, the 28-year-old cultivator

Madurai Messenger First Impressions June 2013

An Epiphanic Bus Ride

A Barefoot Country

Like most foreigners, Luca Scarafile too is overwhelmed by his Indian experience. Yet a journey in an overcrowded city bus provided him an opportunity to appreciate and relate to a culture even though it is so radically different from his own

Monica Cristini is bowled over by what she considers the astonishing openness of India, a country she declares has nothing to hide! Yet she is curious enough to want to pry open the layers to discover hidden secrets and desires of this ancient civilisation

Text and Photo: Luca Scarafile

Text: Monica Cristini, Italy

Italy

Photos: Luca Scarafile, Italy Barefoot on the streets of Madurai

The traffic near Periyar bus station

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t’s strange. When you arrive in India, it seems that you must forget what you know about this country. Reading dozens of books about Indian culture and society, and watching many films about India is bound to appear useless.

In your mind, there is only place for an oppressive sense of disorientation and astonishment: my first contact with Madurai is a good example of this sensation. If every smell, every noise, every face were to strike you, if there is one thing that could summarize the smells and sounds of India, it would be its buses. At any rate, a bus was my first, concrete impression of India.

When I decided to explore the heart of the city on my first day here, I couldn’t have known that the twenty minutes in a Madurai bus could be so meaningful for me. For a foreigner to catch a bus here is an adventure. First of all, you must pay attention while crossing the road to reach the bus stop, since it is uncertain whether you’ll survive this!

Then you must watch for the bus. To tell the truth, when the bus quickly arrived, I hadn’t had the time to take in what I had already seen around me. I got on the bus frantically, pushed by numerous other people and found myself in front of a ticket conductor who stared at me with a strange uncertainty. There was no seat available, but it was even worse when I realised that I had to stand in that melee!

Even in Europe sometimes the means of transport are crowded, but after seeing an Indian bus I must admit that only in India a person really experiences what

rriving in India entails a storm of conflicting emotions, of different and intense impressions, that it’s difficult to put them in order and to speak about them. But if you ask me to summarize it, I would tell you: this is a barefoot country. It’s a country that doesn’t cover itself, that doesn’t hide anything, that doesn’t need something like shoes to protect itself or to run better: it’s a country that is as it shows itself, without compromises.

I was the foreigner who hadn‘t immediately been able to distinguish an organized system and had simply considered it to be confusion. This was a system, which had its own rules, and I was the stranger, who always should try to understand better before prejudging “crowded” means. The bus proceeded forward fighting its way among cars, bikes and rickshaws. Every vehicle honked, people tried to cross the road from every side. What confusion! It seemed to be a battlefield more than a road!

Nevertheless, in the bus and on the road, there was also a certain order.

Everybody knew how to behave in such a complicated microcosm. An unexpected serenity overwhelmed me. The women with their colourful saris, the flowers that adorned their hair, the inquiring glances of the men- were soothing in the suffocating heat. When I got off the

bus, which serenity turned into a new awareness, the awareness that there is nothing strange in such confusion.

I was the foreigner who hadn’t immediately been able to distinguish an organized system and had simply considered it to be confusion. This was a system, which had its own rules, and I was the stranger, who always should try to understand better before prejudging. My first impression of India had been a short bus trip and it was that short bus trip which helped me modify my approach to a culture so different from mine.

Walking through the streets of Madurai I can see people lying down on the pavement, eating some fruits, simply getting some rest, people chatting, selling every kind of thing, children playing in the rubbish, barking dogs, cows, and a crowd of buses, cars, motorbikes, bicycles and rickshaws.

Everyone shouts, and honks.

Pedestrians and cars cross and intersect without rules except those of fate and luck. Someone prays, someone smokes, someone sleeps, and someone simply stands staring at the chaotic world in front of him. There’s no elegance in all that, there’s no harmony. There’s noise, there’s smell, there’s incessant activity, but in all that there’s life, in all its power, its contradictions, its violence, its sacredness, its energy.

India is a country that doesn’t lie, like someone who has nothing to hide. In Madurai, people walk barefoot exactly as the town itself walks barefoot, limping, crawling, hobbling, but always with their head held high, with sad but proud eyes, which reflect the whole truth.

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I‘m now curious to discover what in India is regarded as improper, indecent, and rude. What are they hiding, what are their secrets? And why?

I’m sure it’s only an impression and I’m sure they have their secrets too, something hidden, something we can’t see, but this is certainly something different compared to what we Westerners hide, compared to what we Westerners keep as a secret. What I’m sure about is that one never asks a Westerner to walk barefoot! First of all, it’s considered unhygienic, but more importantly, it’s improper, indecent and

rude. What I’m now curious to discover what in India is regarded as improper, indecent, rude. What are they hiding, what are their secrets? And why? That’s what I want to discover, that’s what I’m looking forward to discovering. To start with, I think I need to get used to walking barefoot, don’t you think?

Madurai Messenger First Impressions June 2013

Picture Perfect

Becoming India

Nanami Kato’s unforgettable impression of Madurai is the willingness of its peopele to speak English, never mind if their grammar is far from perfect!

This , she admits, is a take home message for her when she goes back to Japan!

At first overwhelmed, French national Jessie Rouane discovers the secret of discovering India— to live like the Indians do, including wearing Indian clothes! This, she writes, has helped her integrate with the country she has always dreamed of visiting!

Text: Nanami Kato

Text and Photo: Jessie Rouane

Japan

France I’m no movie star!-volunteer Nanami surrounded by many Indian people

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“What’ s your name?” “Photo! Photo, Please!”- It’s really hard for me to guess how many times I was asked this, since I arrived in India.

t is the first time that I travelled alone outside my country, so I asked myself which would be the first coutnry I wanted to see. Incredible India, of course!I don’t know why, but there is something that has always fascinated me about this country. Before my departure, I did considerable research about the culture, people, food and religions, but nothing prepared me for the culture shock on arrival.

Movie star status

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I was taken to my host family as soon as I landed in Madurai. Factors like the extreme heat, the animals roaming on the streets, the traffic and the noise were my first impressions of this city.

Having come here, I wanted to explore all that was there. So, I first visited the Thirumalai Nayak Palace and there again, I felt like a movie star when men and women of all age groups surrounded me and spoke to me in a very friendly way. They all wanted to take a picture with me! I felt like a movie star! I was surprised by this because if you come to Japan, you may not have such a situation as most Japanese are a little reserved when it comes to talking to foreigners. They welcome people from other parts of the world with open arms but avoid speaking to them at the first meeting.

At first, they are shy and also, according to us, it is impolite for Japanese to speak to strangers in the first meeting.

This being the primary reason, the second reason is the language barrier.

They are afraid of making mistakes while talking.

Animal shock In Madurai, it is totally the opposite.

Although not all people speak good English, they manage well and are always friendly and talkative. I realised that they simply enjoy talking to foreigners. I was very impressed. People

Streets are full of life. Here, smiling children love to be photographed !

I learned a very important aspect from them and that is, being friendly and chatting is more important than speaking the language with perfect grammar. I will surely tell this to all my friends and family back in Japan! often spoke to me when I was taking a tour of the city, taking a bus ride and on the way to my my host family’s home.

Indians are extremely cheerful. I learned a very important aspect from them and that is, being friendly and chatting is more important than speaking the language with perfect grammar. I will surely tell this to all my friends and family back in Japan!

Having shared my experiences about the city and its people, I now want to share with you my shock at one more aspect of Madurai: the animals roaming on the streets. I was amazed to see cows, dogs, goats, chickens and cats on the streets.

I was shocked especially at the number

of stray dogs running around. In Japan, I have seen some stray cats on the street, but never other animals! I used to be a little scared of animals but now I have a pet dog back in Japan. I didn’t like him very much at first, but now I just can’t imagine being without him. I really cherish him. Having seen so many animals, I am now wondering if Indians also like pets and if so, which ones are popular here. I will visit the pet shop in India some day!

To me, Madurai is a place that arouses curiosity. I must say, I have only been attracted more to all the aspects here and I am looking forward to enjoying my stay here!

The first thing that I learned in India it is that people drive as they live.

There are no rules and it looks like a permanent chaos. But at the same time, we have the impression that everything is organized because people seem to know what to do and are not hesitant.

It is also maybe because there are no rules that I have this feeling of freedom and that anything is possible at every moment.

However, the real shock was when I visited the centre of Madurai, the second day. Even in Paris there aren’t so many people. Men, women, children, dogs, holy cows, goats and even chicken are abundant on the roads and in the streets. In France, my home country, I live in a small quiet village while in India, I couldn’t find just one place without seeing or hearing people and animals. Sometimes, I regret not having sufficient privacy in India, but I forget this when I look all beautiful things that Madurai offers. Women wearing multicolored saris and flowers in their hair, the extraordinary temples, and the dazzling craft in little shops make India a unique country. It is this

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Women wearing multicolored saris and flowers in their hair, the extraordinary temples, and the dazzling craft in little shops make India a unique country. It is this part of Indian culture that I like because it is authentic. It is always a real pleasure to wear Indian clothes and feel we are integrated into the culture part of Indian culture that I like because it is authentic. It is always a real pleasure to wear Indian clothes and feel we are integrated into the culture.

Another good surprise was the warmth of my host family. At first, I thought that it would be difficult to fit into an Indian family with a different culture than mine. However, they are so kind and thoughtful that I feel it as a second home. We accept and respect

each other’s differences, so we have a good relationship. I am waiting with impatience to discover other secret treasures of India and I think that we can’t know a culture without living in it and becoming immersed in it. One day, I heard someone say, “ India has as many aspects as it has citizens.” Now, I know what it means. One life would not be enought to know this extraordinary country.

Madurai Messenger Last Impressions June 2013

Madurai: Meendum Sandipom The weather is hot, the food is spicy, the city is crowded. Still Nadine Rechsteiner, a volunteer from Switzerland, enjoyed her time in Madurai and will leave with one eye smiling and the other crying Text and Photo: Nadine Rechsteiner Switzerland Pasumalai at my feet - the magnificent view from the Gateway Hotel

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fter spending eight weeks in Madurai, it’s finally my call to say good-bye to the city that didn’t take my heart instantly. I still maintain that it’s not one of my most favorite cities in India – there are other beauties like Udaipur or Puducherry. But I feel very protective about Madurai. Having spent nearly two months here makes me feel it is another home for me. When I returned from a weekend trip, I felt relived to be just ‘home’ or ‘back’ again.

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Discovering India This city is more traditional than I expected. In my opinion it’s essential to dress appropriately, even though as Westerners, the volunteers anyway stick out in the crowd. It was a good excuse to visit the famous tailors market several times. Like my fellow co-volunteers, I bought a tailor made churidar. Well, actually, I bought two of them!

My lovely host family is Christian, another fact that amazed me in the beginning. I’m in a country that cannot be more different than my home, but still we all celebrated Easter together. It was quite spectacular to see a Christian mass at 5 am in the morning, the church heavily decorated with the famous Madurai ‘Malli’ (jasmine), and people chanting and singing.

Madurai felt very easy-going to me.

The dust, the crazy traffic, the stubborn TukTuk-drivers and unfortunately also the dirt is similar to other Indian cities – not just in the south but also in the north. But if it would just have been less hot! It came as a complete surprise to me that human beings are able to sweat so much. I have never been in favor of air-conditioning

I have never been in favor of air-conditioning or fans, but every time we had a power cut at night, I was just waiting and hoping for the electricity to come back and save me from the unbearable heat or fans, but every time we had a power cut at night, I was just waiting and hoping for the electricity to come back and save me from the unbearable heat.

The last weekend I finally fell in love with the food, especially with masala dosa. I have to admit that I got a little bit fed up with rice, so I think dosa is just perfect, although it’s still made out of rice. The crispy, fermented pancake can be eaten both for breakfast or dinner. Unlike the food I usually eat for breakfast, it’s on the spicy side of life. Together with the wonderful chutneys, I wouldn’t mind eating it twice a day.

Talking about food, I definitely need to mention all those fruits I have

tried here. Some I can’t name because I have never seen them before in my life, others I found after using Google, like the delicious sapota. Or those big, delicious watermelons you can find almost everywhere on the road. And what about those huge jackfruits that are actually larger than life? But my all-time favorite will still be the coconut.

What feels more refreshing than sipping cool coconut water?

From now on, I will call Madurai my temporary home. I feel terribly sad to leave my host family and the other volunteers, but a few more weeks of traveling are waiting for me. Madurai has a rough charm which finally convinced me to love it – because it means home.

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