July - 2012 by Projects Abroad

e e r F

July 2012

Volume 2, Issue 32 Sponsored by:

Culinary Traditions: A Tribute to South Indian Cuisine

Contents July 2012 | Issue No. 32 Editor Dr. Nandini Murali Sub Editor & Journalism Manager Ingelise Jones

EDITOR’S CORNER

B. Pooja Archana Sundararajan

COVER STORY

02 The City that Never Sleeps...But Always Eats! 12 The Murugan Idli Experience 15 A Taste for Tradition 16 The Burmess Connection GASTRONOMIC DELICACIES

Journalism Desk Officers J. Venkatesh G. Durgairajan Designer & Technical Support T. Jesuraja

18 20 24 28

The Indian Bread Basket Satisfying Appetites Melting Moments: The Cloyingly Sweet Halwa Coffee Cravings A DAY IN THE LIFE OF...

Reporters & Photographers Marie McEvoy Ellie Daniel 2

Anne Zwahlen Ariane Lecuyer Kourei Yoshibe Rebecca Geiselmann Porvi Fomra

32 Elevating Cooking to a Fine Art ENTREPRENEURS

35 There is No Food like Home Food! CULTURE KITCHEN

38 Kesari Queen Earns Her Crown! PEOPLE

42 Lily Amirtham: Everybody’s Favourite Grandma! BOOK REVIEW

Cover Photograph Ingelise Jones

45 A Culinary Heirloom FIRST IMPRESSIONS

47 A Rainbow of Multiculturalism Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd.,

FILM

48 Parallel Lives, Parallel Passions HEALTH & LIFESTYLE

Contact: editor@maduraimessenger.org MADURAI MESSENGER No. 17, T.P.K Road Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269

Amma’s Recipes

01 Amma’s Recipes

EATING OUT Journalism Supervisors

EDITOR’S CORNER

50 Beating Diabetes 53 The Goodness of Fruits TRENDS

56 Master Chefs FIRST IMPRESSIONS

61 An Indian Narrative 62 A City of Character 63 Positive Vibes FILM

64 A Jolly Good Film!

A virginal bride Making her debut The kitchen, a stranger to her, Like her own body. An unwilling immigrant From the land of girlhood and freedom To domesticity and wifehood The fulcrum on which my universe rests. Threshold crossed Bereft of signposts and guidelines Except an inner voice Chastising me to blend Sita and Kiran Bedi. Look-alike lentils Challenge me to spot the differences At own peril. How can I tell one from the other? How much salt is the precise amount? I smack my fingers My tongue darts in sensual abandon Long lost lovers discovering each other. A good cook never tastes while cooking Shriek the voices of the women That I carry within me. Where is the dividing line between moderation and excess? Will I ever learn? The novitiate wonders. I float around Aimlessly Driftwood tossed by dos and don’ts of wifehood My learning curve seems jagged Like a perilous ascent of the Himalayas Without oxygen. ‘The way to man’s heart is through his stomach’ Proclaim the voices of the Women. Secret references to amma’s recipes Scribbled in scraps of paper My talisman against cooking slips Censure against my “poor upbringing”

I must redeem my mother In the eyes of the Others. Praise, approbation, Encore! Seduce me like an astute lover Entrap me in the mire of domesticity. My frantic phone calls Regular ‘Tell me how to do this? Pleas From a single scrap of paper My recipe book has ballooned. Twenty years later The sepia toned book Still exerts a talismanic hold Antidote to culinary slips. ‘Kai manam’, Aromatic magic of a cook’s hands Finger prints Gastronomic signatures Forge-proof. I see my grandmother’s hopes and aspirations In the fermented dosa batter Her largesse in the freshly made milk sweet A labor of love. My patti’s muted artistry In the twirls and loops of crystalline white vattal Amma’s effervescence In the volcanic rise and fall of the chakra pongal Her insouciance in Piquant freshly cut mango pickle. My own reflection in the limpid rasam A collage of all the women in my family Who did As they were bid.

Dr. nandini murali Editor

Madurai Messenger Cover Story July 2012

The City that Never Sleeps…

But Always Eats!

With her obvious love of food, Marie McEvoy lets her appetite lead her on a culinary journey of Madurai. From traditional fare to Western influences, from high-end restaurants to street side stalls, from healthy choices to indulgent snacks, she embraces a city of discerning tastes that thrives with delicious offerings around the clock By Marie McEvoy England

“The recipes are 1000-2000 years old. So successful is the scheme that it serves between 100 and 300 people most nights, and up to 400 on Sundays”

catering college, and eating it since childhood. “I would only eat packaged bread if I was sick and couldn’t cook,” Shankar said. Parotta is mainly eaten as part of dinner; heavier rice dishes are saved for lunch, to balance out a lighter breakfast and evening meal. The cuisine available in Madurai is vast, ranging from high end, where more Western dishes feature, to the standard snack fare at every roadside stall and bus station. Rice, lentils and vegetables are the common staples in Tamil Nadu – but there were other grains and pulses before these.

Restoring tradition At Uzhavan Unavagam (Farmers Eatery), opened in September 2011, there has been a push towards the revival of traditional food and culture.

This restoration of Tamil Nadu food comes courtesy of former Madurai Collector U. Sagayam, IAS. Open between the hours of 4.00pm and 9.00pm daily, it holds ten stalls, allotted to farmers who cook traditional recipes. Without a trace of irony, they want to bring this healthier lifestyle to the rich and middle class city dwellers. Everyday staples like dosas and chapatis are made with multigrain rice flour, pearl millet, soya and ragi. Importantly, they don’t use maida. “There are more calories in maida,” One of the stall operators, Rajesh, explained. “Maida doesn’t give strength.” Refined flours such as maida are high in carbohydrates, which leads to higher sugar levels in the body. Jaggery is also used as a healthier alternative to sugar.

Sumptuous South Indian bondas and samosas served with coconut chutney from Vasantham Hotel and Restaurant

adurai is not just a famous temple city; it’s a foodie’s fantasy. Roads buzz with a strip of fluorescent-lit shops and stalls providing tasty night-time sustenance for rickshaw drivers, cab drivers, and anyone else who happens to be up at odd hours with an empty stomach. Oil sizzles in large pans from morning until dusk and late into the night. Piping hot tawas play host to giant crispy dosas and buttery parothas. It is the city that never sleeps, but always eats.

Spicy yet aromatic, South Indian cooking is said to be spicier than in the North, and is mainly vegetarian, with heavy use of flavours such as coconut and cardamom. Indian breads mostly have their roots in the North – naan, chapati, kulcha and roti all originate from states a little further up the country – but puri and parotta are Southern creations. Breads are a large part of Indian culinary life—chefs K.Suresh, 24, A,Silambarasan, 22, and M.Shankar, 26, have been making their favourite, parotta, for nearly six years after learning at a

The recipes are 1000-2000 years old. So successful is the scheme that it serves between 100 and 300 people most nights, and up to 400 on Sundays. It’s a popular place for families to come together and eat. Not only does this centre provide health benefits, but an income to farmers and those living on the poverty line. V.C. Dhanalakshmi, 57, is a cook at the Eatery from the village of Aruppukottai, who was very poor before she approached the Collector for help. She makes pongal, ragi porridge and dosas, using herbs and leaves (modakathan), and strongly believes in the benefits of the traditional grains and cooking process. Recently she had a bad fall, and although she was

V.C. Dhanalakshmi (57), believes traditional grains and recipes help restore health

Uma Rani is runs one of the stalls at Uzhavan Unavagam. Here, she is making multigrain dosa

Madurai Messenger Cover Story July 2012

V.C. Dhanalakshmi (57) runs a food stall at Uzhavan Unavagam. The initiative has help lift her out of poverty and given her the opportunity to cook traditional healthy food for a living

The Gateway Hotel’s resident traditional chef, M. Chamundeshwari Amma (50), with Sales Manager Sumant Khanna (40)

Josephine (39) sells her honey at Uzhavan Unavagam

treated at a government hospital with allopathic remedies, she felt that eating the dosas with medicinal ingredients helped her to heal. Her back felt better, and she no longer has to walk with a stick. She makes around 30 – 40 dosas per day fresh on her small burners, as well as Hibiscus soup and thulasi Kashayam, which are thought to be good for coughs and colds. She still eats certain recipes – porridge, dosa, chutneys – from childhood, but others are those she has learnt from her training at a farmer’s college which was organised for her by the Collector. Her lunch recipes still include the staple rice, but smaller grains are used, which have been proven over time to also help control blood sugar. The methods of growing the crops, and in particular honey production, used by the farmers, have been around, she said, “since people started hunting.”

The chefs at the Gateway Hotel are passionate about traditional cuisine including M. Chamundeshwari Amma (far left) and Head Chef Ashok Kumar (far right)

K. Arumugam (53) volunteers his time to manage Uzhavan Unavagam

“Madurai is a place where people like local food... People feel they want the Madurai flavour” Josephine, 39, is a honey producer and gooseberry farmer, selling seasonal jamun flower, hill, and multi flower honeys. Honey with gooseberries is not only a natural sweet, but also good for the “normal delivery of babies,” and “to give good milk to the baby for two years.” Another traditional belief was to give honey to newborns for the first time to improve their life span; something she is trying to spread awareness of again. “We should improve our immune system”, she explained. “This generation’s life span is smaller.”

Uzhavan Unavagam Manager K. Arumugam, 53, volunteers his time at the eatery after his day job as an Agricultural Officer. Every evening at 10.00pm, he reports to the Collector on the success of the evening. The current set up is in a large hall. Building is already underway to create a more permanent structure for the eatery. K. Arumugam insisted that it is a profitable business, especially for the 10 families and farmers growing the grains in nearby villages. They hope that the concept will continue to grow so that they can expand the business and continue to support the revival of traditional food.

Home and away This interest in nutritious, home cooked food with additional health benefits has reached even higher end eateries. S. Ashok Kumar, 42, head chef at The Taj Restaurant at the

Gateway Hotel in Pasumalai, explained their new regional homestyle menu, which includes urulai roast, the popular vendakkai mandi, and thalis made by their newest member of staff, M. Chamundeshwari Amma, 50. “Madurai is a place where people like local food,” Ashok said. “People feel they want the Madurai flavour.” Sri Lankan by birth, Amma started cooking fish curry when she was just 10 years old, and has lived in Madurai for 25 years. Until seven months ago, she was a homemaker. She has 40 years of cooking experience, including four years working at home stays in Kuwait, and of course, cooking for her family of four. News of the new chef spread mainly through word of mouth, recommendations, and the new additions to the menu. Orders for thalis can reach up to 20 per afternoon. She works from 11.00am – 4.00pm, preparing the meals completely on her own. Although she keeps the authenticity

Madurai Messenger Cover Story July 2012

food. “Western and continental food is still in demand, as it has less fat and spice, with Chinese a close second.” There is also a surge towards experimentation with Burmese and Thai food now too, and the hotel serves both local and foreign customers.

As well as the usual breakfast items (without chutneys as they would spoil in the climate), they shallow fry their biggest seller in the afternoon - fresh potato and vegetable samosas. The oil heats to around 100 degrees in 5 minutes, and the small maida pastry parcels conveniently only take all of 2 minutes to cook.

Head Chef at the Sunshine Hotel, Balakrishnan, 34, has also noticed a pattern in what his customers order, and their motivation behind it. He also believes that you cannot alter the way a traditional dish is cooked if you want to keep it the way it has always been. A lot of people do have nonvegetarian, but on days when they are going to the temple, they order vegetarian dishes.

Their turnover is Rs. 3,000 a day, and there have never been any requests for healthier items from customers. Nor have they ever seen the appeal of more continental items like cereal or toast for breakfast themselves. Vadas are M. Kamarutheen’s favourite, and for most other customers, too. Economically, they explained, they are a cheaper, more filling breakfast, wrapped in paper or plastic bags for ease of transportation as patrons hurry to their next destination.

“A lot of people eat vegetarian food for health and to be fit. It’s also why they eat continental food, because there is less fat. This is the main reason for the popularity of continental food - because Chinese and Indian can’t be prepared without oil. Grilled chicken and grilled fish are the most popular continental dishes served here. People are always too health conscious. Almost 80 percent of people are aware now.” He reports that diners also request to speak to the chef about the food. Delicious bondas from Vasantham Hotel and Restauarant. These are a popular evening snack for people on the go

But the food served at hotels is notably more expensive than the meals available from locally run street carts, which means that healthier options are not necessarily accessible on a wide scale to Maduraiites. Although, whilst a consciousness of health and counting calories seems to be emerging amongst the public, there will always be an undying love for the oilier, cheaper street food that they have feasted on for years – vada, dal vada, samosas, bajjis, are all deep fried and affordable.

“There will always be an undying love for the oilier, cheaper street food that they have feasted on for years – vada, dal vada, samosas, bajjis, are all deep fried and affordable” of her dishes, she adjusts them at the hotel so that they are, “a bit less spicy, with less oil.” But she doesn’t change the ingredients to keep the same taste.

Dhal vedas are deep fried and served hot or cold, usually eaten for breakfast or served to guest before dinner

For the last six years they have been running a ‘Chef’s Hat’ section in their dining hall, where customers can create their own dishes, which are then included with their family name in the daily lunchtime buffet. They have started to use only refined, dewaxed oil, such as sunflower oil, and provide a multitude of health conscious breads including roti, multigrain dosas and idli. Sales Manager Sumant Khanna, 40, said, “It is important for the hotel to support the local population and the local cuisine, as people are more open in their requests for traditional food and healthy food. Awareness is increasing. Everyone wants to be fit and fine.” He believes that people who have been away from home for a long time need ‘simple’ food that they are used to. However, this is not to say that there has been a sudden leap towards traditional

Street Treats

Kuzhi paniyaram, a tasty South Indian breakfast or pre dinner treat

There is, however, street food to satisfy more health-conscious tastes. Carts selling solely sweet corn are popping up all over Madurai in the early evening as an alternative to the neighbouring chaat shops and bonda carts. There are seven ‘Corn Corner’ stations in the city. M. Pandi, 25, has worked outside the Jayaram Bakery on the TPK Road for two years. The stall sells four flavours of corn: butter corn, which is the biggest seller for children; Italian; pepper ‘n’ lime; and hot chili, which is the most popular with adults.

At the front of the Vasantham Hotel and Restaurant in Arapalayam, vada is the most popular snack throughout the day. Between 10.00am and 1.00pm, they are served soaked in sambar, and between 12.00pm and 3.00pm, they are saturated in curd. Patrons eat vada standing up from paper plates with a cup of tea or coffee and some idle chitchat. The busiest time, according to vendor and coffee master Surulinathan, 45, is between 5.00pm and 7.00pm After 4.00pm, fattier, heavier snacks such as banana and deep fried chili bajjis glisten on grease-soaked newspaper, providing a stopgap between finishing work and having a late dinner at home. These are the sorts of comforting, familiar foods that people recognise, and ones they will automatically make a beeline for. Lifestyle and time constraints can also play a large part in meal choices. At Moolakarai bus stop, a father and his two sons, M. Kamarutheen, 72, K. Ibrahimsha, 40, and K. Sulthan, 35, have fed hungry passengers and construction workers from 7.00am in the morning until 3.00pm in the afternoon for 15 years. The menu is also simple, yet wildly successful.

K. Amirtham making corn dosa at Uzhavan Unavagam

Madurai Messenger Cover Story July 2012

Traditional South Indian cuisine has been prepared at Kumar Mess in Madurai since 1991

Kumar Mess chef Pitachai Kannu (47) prepares traditional non-vegetarian food

Professor Anand eats traditional food everyday, but admits to enjoying Western food as well

8 Aravindswamy (16) works at the CanCane shop opposite Hotel Germanus in Kalavasal. Sugar cane juice is one of the most popular roadside drinks in Madurai

Even when choosing a wholesome snack, Maduraiites just can’t bear to be without their spice. “People like corn because it’s new and has not been there from the beginning,” M. Pandi said. “It’s healthy food, very sweet, soft, and tasty. There is no oil, and it has been boiled.” Its sales do not mirror those of the traditional street fare, but he says the demand is increasing. “Day by day, it is becoming more popular.” Currently the cart sells around 30 cups of corn a day. Outside the Rajaji Government hospital, M. Maruthupandi, 39, runs a stall selling idli, dosas, onion oothappam roast and pongal from 7.00am until 10.00pm, turning out nearly 500 items a day at affordable prices to the poor and sick. These are also the things he cooks himself at home. “I wanted to encourage the patients to eat better,” he said. “If you are sick, you should go for idli.” He doesn’t make other traditional night time items like parotta because of the nature of the customers. “It needs to be healthy for the patients. I can’t do things with oil.” He makes his chutneys simply with coconut, water, salt, dal, and green chilies. “It is all quality, with no side effects,” he explained. Breakfast and dinner are the busiest times, as people visiting the patients usually bring them home made lunches.

Fast food nation? The Kumar Mess has six restaurant around Madurai. Staunch advocates of South Indian cooking, they have had the same menu of traditional food since 1991, and sell 600 plates a day throughout their branches. Rather than burgers and fries, their only idea of ‘fast food’ is the inclusion of noodles and the ‘chicken lollipop’ two years ago. Owner Mrs. Kumar, 35, said that this spiced chicken fried on the bone can be picked up easily with one hand and eaten with ease, making it a recurring choice for children.

husband D. Rama Chandra Kumar, 45. They also cater for functions and weddings, where biryani still reigns supreme. Taste buds in Madurai are discovering new flavours, and beginning to crave a ‘break’ from the food they have eaten from childhood – or perhaps just a break from cooking. On a visit to the food court in the Vishaal De Mall, North Madurai, although there was a varied selection of Indian, Chinese and Western food available, Indian and fried chicken were the two most popular meal choices with weary shoppers taking a break to eat.

They sell only fresh juices and water, but there are no ‘healthy’ options. They have not had any requests from those watching their waistlines, and everything is cooked in varying amounts of oil, but Mrs. Kumar believes that traditional food is still the best for a healthy lifestyle. “People like traditional food because it won’t harm the stomach. There is no junk in traditional food,” she continued.

Professor Anand, who works at Madurai Kamaraj University, was enjoying a pizza in the late afternoon as a late meal, having skipped lunch. Although born in Madurai, and normally opting for the usual biryani, dosas and idli, he has been exposed to more Continental food than most because he lived in the US for a while.

There are North Indian breads sold in just one of the Kumar Mess restaurants. Mainly they dish up mutton, chicken, crab and prawn recipes, as well as vegetarian, using recipes passed on through generations from the grandparents of her

“Although I read in many magazines to avoid junk food like pizza, I take it because it’s different,” he said. “I eat Western food only occasionally. I eat traditional food almost daily.” He avoids aerated drinks, tries to eat fruit daily, and often cooks at home.

“Although it contains no vitamins or minerals, sugar cane juice has been proven to contain antioxidants, potassium, and riboflavin”

Professor Anand explained his mentality behind traditional cooking. “It is an extra strain to learn how to make Western food.” Explaining that there is a reassurance in making the foods you know, he continued, “At celebrations we only eat traditional food. At parties we take continental food too.”

Liquid lives No wonder Madurai never sleeps, when on every street there are the ubiquitous hot drink stalls, and often juice bars, where watching them prepare your beverage before your eyes is half the experience. Tamil Nadu has many tea plantations, but coffee seems to be the prevailing brew. Coffee stall owner R. Murugesan, 52, has run his bustling stall on the T.P.K Road for 35 years. He sells home-cooked breakfast goods to go with the drinks, and for all manner of sweet-toothed desires, he provides a choice of fresh bananas and a selection of biscuits and sugary snacks. Biscuit and banana sales are on a par, he said. People tend to buy bananas for breakfast and lunch more than any other time. Sometimes they will have them with tea or coffee, or just take them away with them for a filling bite to eat later. He has sold them since the shop opened, “Because they are healthy,” he said. He himself eats a banana every day.

Madurai Messenger Cover Story July 2012

Volunteers Marie McEvoy (UK) and Ariane Lecuyer (France) love traditional food. Here, they are enjoying the healthy food on offer at Uzhavan Unavagam

Thali is a popular lunch in Madurai. Rice and chapati are served with several savoury side dishes

from seaweed and said to be full of fibre). Owner Amanulla, 28, took over from his father, Sheak Meeran, who changed the taste of Jigarthanda with his additional ingredients to create the current version, after working as an ice-cream vendor in Madurai.

A popular traditional roadside drink is sugarcane juice, where heavy duty rolling machines extract the sweet liquid. Although it contains no vitamins or minerals, sugar cane juice has been proven to contain antioxidants, potassium, and riboflavin. It’s a wiser choice for diabetic patients due to its low glycemic index, and boasts rehydrating properties that are good for summer months. About 15 percent is natural sugar, and it’s fast becoming a popular choice for celebratory functions.

The shop uses 50 kilograms of sugar a day, so, whilst not the best choice for diabetics, they make their own ice cream and add no essences or chemicals. The shop’s long history and reputation ensures that they have between 300 and 400 repeat customers. Customer Mohammed, 45, said, “It is a little healthy. It usually uses home made ice cream and other cool items.”

The CaneCan shop, opposite the Hotel Germanus in Kalavasal, Madurai, sells between 300 – 500 cups per occasion. “It is good to have something sweet during weddings,” worker Aravindswamy, 16, explained. Although the juice is on offer with several different natural flavours, the most popular drink is the imported ‘pulpy’ sugarcane juice, flavoured with strawberry. There tends to be an energy slump in workers between 11.00am and 12.00pm, a time when the shop serves the most customers, and street stalls experience their ‘rush hour’. Sugarcane vendor, Sangu Krishnan, 30, has been selling the juice for 15 years. His juice is all-natural, using only the extracted liquid, ginger, and a squeeze of lime. He drinks it every day when he feels tired or thirsty. “Even doctors recommend it as being good for health. It separates the wastage in the blood,” he said. It is also believed to be a treatment for smallpox.

Vegetarian omlette (without egg) made by Rajesh at Uzhavan Unavagam

A less nutritionally beneficial, yet famous and tasty Madurai speciality is Jigarthanda, the traditional drink of the city. Keelavasal is the home of the Famous Jigarthanda Shop, which has established itself over 40 years as the provider of the drink-dessert hybrid made of ice cream, basil leaf, milk, syrup, and China grass (also known as ‘agar’ which is derived

Weather is a dynamic that affects sales. In the summer, they sell 1,000 glasses a day, but figures dip when it is cold or rainy. Maduraiites place great emphasis on drinks that reduce body temperature. Even Sangu Krishnan said that he only sells sugarcane juice for six months during the heat wave, before returning to his agricultural job for the rest of the year. Rose milk is another common drink, often prepared at home, with syrups or powder, sugar, and milk. Availability in restaurants fluctuates, and it is rarely sold at roadside stalls. S.K. Nazir Ahmed, 39, from the Park Plaza Hotel, said that visitors to the restaurant are looking more to lassis, milkshakes, and healthier options, and see rose milk as

containing too many chemicals and essences. “It is very rare that they ask for it,” he said, although he mentioned that he drinks it at home. T. C. Ganesh, 42, from the Hotel Supreme, remarked that rose milk, although still on the menu, has fallen by the wayside in favour of other drinks such as blassam – a mix of pomegranate juice (rich in antioxidants and used for weight control) and vanilla ice cream. “Tastes and preferences have changed,” he said. “Although some people do still ask for rose milk.” On the other hand, S. Chandran, 62, at the Shiram Mess, said that they haven’t served it since the place opened in 1962.

The future is brighter, not wider Although there is now more variety of food and drinks for Maduraiites to sink their teeth into than ever before, this city will never lose its culinary roots. It has just opened itself up to more outside influences, and become a little more conscious of its waist line. Traditional food will be around as long as people are there to consume it, whether in their homes or when eating out. Opting for healthier dishes does not necessarily mean they are shunning the food of their people; if anything, Maduraiites are just hoping to live to indulge a little longer, as only they can.

Madurai Messenger Eating Out July 2012

The Murugan Idli Experience Wowed by the fluffy, pillow-like steamed concoction of rice and lentils, Marie McEvoy plunges into gastronomic ecstasy at the last word for idlis: the Murugan Idli Shop. Delighted that it is quite contrary to the artery clogging Western junk food, she confesses that she is tempted to pack an idli pan in her backpack! By Marie McEvoy England

Idli fans dine inside the Murugan Idli Shop in Madurai

Murugan Idli Shop on West Masi Street in Madurai is an institution frequented by hundreds of hungry customers everyday

adore idlis. I’ve had many a discussion with fellow volunteers over whether they love or hate them. Personally, I believe those fluffy, pillow-like discs of steamed lentil and rice batter should be eaten for any meal, not just as a traditional breakfast food. The Murugan Idli shop, on the West Masi Street, therefore, felt almost like a place of worship. When I walked in at around 3.00pm on a weekday

afternoon, the ground level of the restaurant was already buzzing with devotees, using their oothappams and dosas to mop up banana leaves awash with a range of chutneys. There are three branches in the city, which have been satisfying Maduraiites’ needs for tiffin for over 15 years, serving, “Traditional recipes from our grandmother’s heart.” Their reputation for creating delicious South

Indian dishes has led to a worldwide appreciation of items such as idli and vada, with 12 other stores in Chennai and even Singapore. The largest store is on the North Usman Road in Chennai, where up to 150 people at a time can sample the idli experience. S. Manoharan, 53, has been managing director for 20 years, taking over from his parents, Shanmugasundaram and Nayagathammal, who set up the

company 45 years ago under the banner Murugan Coffee Nilayam. Originally, they served coffee and nothing else. Then, in 1992, once his parents decided they were too old to continue working and closed the shop, he took the reins and started it up again. “It is my passion,” he said. The chutney recipes are all his own, and he believes that the company has come so far due to one thing: “The softness of the idli, and the small onion oothappam, which you cannot get anywhere else,” he boasted. When in Singapore, he noticed a large Tamil population, which inspired him to open two stores to cater to their desire for a taste of home. “They’re going really well,” he told me. The former Union Minister Dr. Subramanian Swamy said, “The taste of food served in Murugan Idli is high and incomparable.” With testimonials like that, I was expecting big things as I sat down to the two satisfyingly fat, spongy idlis set out in front of me, with a selection of freshly made chutneys served from silver pails by attentive staff,

Idli: the white, fluffy pillows that customers devour at Murugan Idli restaurants

dressed in red polo shirts emblazoned with the company’s logo. The chutneys, deliciously hot from the kitchen, consisted of mint, tomato, coriander, coconut, and the traditional sambar. Originally, only sambar and tomato chutney were available, but the range has developed over the years,

much to the delight of clientele. For an extra charge, I sampled its famed concoction of oil and chili powder called ‘oil podi’ – extremely popular with customers, I am told, but I found it to be an odd, almost earthy-tasting mix. Whilst it did complement the slight sourness of the idli, I much preferred the mint.

Madurai Messenger Eating Out July 2012

The Taste for Tradition Ryo Ohtsuki visits Kumar Mess, a popular non-vegetarian restaurant in Madurai to learn about how traditional food is still dominant in the city By Ryo Ohtsuki Japan

ost countries have a traditional cuisine and India is no exception. Based on the type of food they eat, people in India can be broadly classified as vegetarian or non-vegetarian, a concept which does not exist in my home country of Japan, because most people eat meat. Kumar Mess, a non-vegetarian restaurant in Madurai, has been serving customers since 1991, serving traditional food using recipes passed down through the generations.

A Boon to Madurai

Our volunteers sample the idli with a range of chutneys and sauces

Manager Johnson, 62, has been in the food industry all his life, and the manager of this particular shop – the very first of the chain—for 20 years. He said that the secret of its success is high standards of client service and of course, the taste. It is “very homely food, done neatly and hygienically.” Looking around, tables were constantly being wiped, and the surrounding white tiles were always clean. “Not every shop gives hot idli at any time,” he went on. They sell over 1,000 idlis a day. Although onion oothappam is the most popular, each customer will only order one, whereas they usually order three or four idlis at a time. The same menu is served from 7.00am until midnight, with standard breakfast fare in the mornings, and a selection on rice dishes come lunch time, but his personal favourite is the oil dosa.

Balan (50) is the chef at Murugan Idli Shop in Madurai

I then went on to taste the sublime oothappam—crisp underneath, with small sweet onions nestled in its

soft exterior. It is easy to see why it is well loved. They serve no coffee or tea at all nowadays, although creamy Jigarthanda, which originated in Madurai, is offered. Manoharan has no plans to change the already thriving menu, which is, as he said, “Well and good,” but he has set his sights on opening 300 shops in total throughout India. Almost as quickly as the shop filled up with hungry customers, it had emptied again. This is fast food, but not in the greasy, artery-clogging sense that I, as a European, am used to. The idli was very pleasant – light, an extremely generous portion – but a rather straightforward meal. I would visit again, if just for the chutneys alone. The recipes are available on the Murugan Idli website, so now I just have to figure out how to fit an idli pan in my backpack so that I can continue my love affair with one of my all-time favourite South Indian dishes.

As a result of their serious commitment to traditional food and a loyal following from customers who regularly enjoy their meals, the Kumar family has expanded their business to five branches in Madurai.

15 Owner of Kumar Mess, Mrs. Kumar (far right), with some of her staff

Mrs. Kumar is in charge of one branch and his two brothers and cousins are responsible for the other outlets. After humble beginnings, the second branch was set up in 2004, and subsequently new branches have been set up every two years, with the fifth branch opening in 2010. According to Mrs. Kumar, the main reason for their success is their practical approach to managing the business.

Old is Gold Despite the fact that some people in India are becoming fond of modern food and fast food, Kumar Mess keeps to traditional food like biryani, parotta, and chicken lollipops. They have confidence in their delicious dishes and believe that people will continue loving traditional food. In fact, Mrs. Kumar says that many people still have a strong preference

Vegetable preparation at Kumar Mess

for traditional food, though some people still like to try fast food. She also says she would not like people in India to forget the traditional taste and that’s one of the main reasons she and other chefs try to keep serving yummy traditional food.

People’s tastes might be changing in other parts of India, but traditional food is still dominant here in Madurai. Visitors from foreign countries can feel the strong Indian tradition and enjoy the many South Indian delicacies on offer at Kumar Mess.

Madurai Messenger Eating Out July 2012

The Burmese Connection Burma Idiyappam, the city’s first and most famous idiyappam eatery was established in 1960 by S. Petchiammal, an Indian woman from Burma. Today, the successful business is managed by Devika, her daughter. Ellie Daniel fondly hopes that the next generation of the family-run business will expand into England, where the delectable dish of steamed noodles and coconut will be available early mornings when a slice of toast is just not enough! By Ellie Daniel England

Devika sits proudly in her restaurant

Devika has been developing the business ever since. Now, it is a fully fledged restaurant, feeding hungry Maduriites breakfast and dinner for a small price. The success of the initiative has led to a number of further restaurants being established in competition. Devika explained that there are now five rival restaurants in Madurai, although she is the owner of only this one restaurant. I consider this quirky little business as India’s alternative to the fast food shops I am used to in my native England, open early in the morning (6.00am-10.00am) and late at night (5.00pm-11.00pm), with peak hours between 8.00pm and 11.00 pm. The restaurant offers dishes for a mere Rs.6 each, which can be instantly procured. It takes just 30 minutes to produce 150 pieces. The meal can either be taken away for consumption later. Or, if you’re like me and unable to wait, it can be enjoyed in front of the restaurant, served on a banana leaf and eaten by hand. Eating noodles minus cutlery, without making a huge mess requires some technique. I was relieved when I was offered a cup of water with which to rinse my hands following my plate of freshly cooked idiyappam!

ituated opposite the Christian Mission Hospital in the heart of Madurai, Burma Idiyappam may be just a tiny eatery, but it bustles with vibrant energy. A practiced system of jovial yet focused, business-like workers process and steam noodles, grind coconut and serve jostling customers. Nestled amongst mountains of fresh, steaming, white rice noodles sits M.

Devika, the owner of the restaurant. Devika greeted me with an enthusiastic smile, as she proudly explained the workings of her flourishing business, of which she has been the chief entrepreneur for the past 20 years. Devika talked about the intriguing history behind her family-run business. She inherited the restaurant from

her mother, S. Petchiammal, who relocated from Burma (hence the appropriate name of the shop) to Madurai in 1960. As a mother of 10 children, she needed a means of supporting her family. Devika described how, “The only work she knew was making idiyappam.” And so, Madurai’s first roadside idiyappam stall was born.

In contrast to the greasy and unhealthy fast food joints I am accustomed to, Burma idiyappam offers something significantly more wholesome. I witnessed the idiyappam, which is essentially rice noodles, being steamed fresh in front of my eyes. As a customer, you can observe exactly what is involved in the production process and what ingredients are used. Idiyappam is steam cooked without oil, and is comprised only of rice, coconut milk, coconut pieces, and sugar. It is therefore considered a healthy meal. It can also be accompanied with vegetarian gravy for a different flavour. For Devika, the health benefits of her dish are its main attraction. Unlike many traditional Indian dishes, she explained, “It doesn’t have any negative effects

Mounds of fresh, steaming idiyappam

on the body or create any disease.” It does not raise cholesterol, being steam cooked, and this for her is what makes Idiyappam really special. Personally, however, the health benefits were overshadowed by the taste of the dish! I was initially somewhat skeptical as to how something with such a basic recipe would taste, expecting it to be somewhat bland or unsatisfying. As someone who struggles with spices but has a very sweet tooth, idiyappam presents a famous Madurai dish which is ideal for me. A perplexing mix of savoury and sweet, I was pleasantly surprised by the tropical taste. And it seems that I am not the only one who appreciates its taste. Indeed, Devika described how the restaurant caters to many VIPs, including politicians and actors, who, according to Devika, regularly frequent her shop. Burma Idiyappam produces 1000 pieces daily, a figure which is testament to the popularity of the dish. Amusingly, Devika’s favourite food is of course, idiyappam with coconut milk and coconut. Although a roaring success in Madurai, according to Devika, the dish has not yet spread outside the city. Devika hopes to see idiyappam enjoyed across Tamil Nadu and perhaps even beyond, in the

Ellie Daniel (UK) tucks in to Burmese Idiyappam

near future. Her children are currently studying engineering and she hopes that one day, one of them will succeed her in sustaining Burma Idiyappam and expanding the business. I am also personally eager to see the business spread; hoping that at some point it will find its way over to England so that, like the Maduraiites, I too can enjoy idiyappam at 6.00am on those mornings when a slice of toast just isn’t enough!

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

The Indian Bread Basket! Accustomed to the rather plain fare of just wheat or brown bread in England, Ellie Daniel is amazed to discover the exciting range of Indian breads from the roti, chapati, phulka, puri, batura to the ultimate Indian bread—the parotta! Incidentally, bakery bread is treated with disdain and regarded as a sick person’s food by Indians whose lip smacking bread legacy is a gastronomic delight! By Ellie Daniel England A selection of Indian breads: parotta, poori, patura and chapati

All of these are vastly different from the crusty loaves of bread that I am accustomed to. With the exception of naan, a bread made of refined flour, which is from the North of India and commonly found in Indian restaurants in England, they were all new to me. Traditionally enjoyed with either meat or vegetable gravy such as a sambar, Maduraiites enjoy these breads at breakfast or for dinner, but not at lunch, where rice is preferable because it is considered the ‘heaviest’ meal of the day. When I discussed the importance of bread in the Indian diet with the Projects Abroad chefs, Suresh, Silambarasan and Shankar, I enquired as to whether they had ever eaten bought pre-made sliced bread. They responded with looks of horror. They claim that bread is only eaten when the chefs are, “too ill to make fresh bread!”

Ingredients and Preparation All varieties of bread contain flour, water, and salt. For chapati, phulka and poori, 100 percent atta or wheat flour is used, whereas for parotta and batura, maida or refined flour is used, along with a fair amount of oil, a little milk and, for some recipes, also egg. As I observed at the Projects Abroad kitchen, the difference between the taste of Indian breads is created through the process of making the dough and most importantly, the cooking rather than a significant difference in ingredients. The actual cooking process takes a mere matter of minutes. For chapatis, it takes only five minutes to make the dough. For parotta, a longer process is necessary to create the distinctive layered effect, in which the dough is carefully manipulated into a swirled shape and then left to set. Batura and puri are both fried in oil, whereas chapati and parotta are cooked on a ‘tava,’ which is a large gas stove. Phulka is first cooked like chapati, and then cooked directly on a high flame so that it is softer and more like a crepe than a chapati.

19 Projects Abroad cooks (L-R): Suresh, Silambarasan and Shankar

Dough for parotta and chapati

Having seen the relatively simple preparation that went into making the bread, and the fresh steaming results, I felt somewhat ashamed and embarrassed by my lazy approach to bread back at home, which I never make myself.

Parotta Popularity

oming from England, a nation where bread is a staple part of our diet, I was expecting to miss my daily diet of bread when I embarked on my trip to India. Back home, we often start with toast for breakfast, followed by a sandwich for lunch and most likely, a slice of bread with dinner. Only aware of the stereotypical Indian cuisine of curry and rice, I was astounded to discover the complex variety of breads on offer in South India. In fact, the array of different breads eaten daily in Madurai puts our narrow English choice of white or brown bread to shame. Keen to learn about what they’re made of and how

they’re made, I interviewed two chefs working in local street restaurants and three chefs at the Projects Abroad kitchen.

What is Indian Bread? Indian breads differ greatly in their appearance, texture and taste. There is a different bread for every occasion. Varieties include thin chapatis, rotis and phulka, which are reminiscent of pancakes with their large flat round shape. The ever popular parotta is a smaller, thicker more filling bread presented in fluffy layers of dough. In contrast, there are the crispy poori and batura, which are both fried in oil, and may not be the healthiest option but certainly one of the tastiest.

Of the many chefs we met this month for our special edition on South Indian food, there was a unanimous answer when it came to Madurai’s favourite bread. It is undoubtedly the parotta. Its soft layers of creamy dough prove irresistible. In fact, such is the importance of parota in Madurai, that there is a variety named ‘Madurai Parota’ in its honour! According to H.A Saravanan, owner of New Janani Mess, the process of making parotta is the most complex due to its layered texture. In my opinion, however, the time consuming process is definitely worth the end result. Saravanan serves parotas for Rs.6 a piece to 300 customers daily from 12.00am -12.00pm, adding up to around 40 kilograms per day!

A street stall chef, Bagyaraj, explained that such is the demand for parotta, he no longer enjoys the job as much as before because he finds it difficult to keep up with the demand. He also faces the impatience of customers who just cannot wait to tuck in, putting him under pressure. Personally, I share Madurai’s love for parotta, and am not eagerly awaiting my return to England, where parotta and indeed, all South Indian breads are yet to be discovered, and gain the appreciation they deserve.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

Satisfying Appetites Madurai is known for its sumptuous traditional food. Ariane Lecuyer delves into the diets of Madurai residents to find out what they eat for breakfast, lunch, dinner and their much loved snacks in between

To these three popular breakfast choices, we can add: poori, aappam, idiyappam, adai, paniyaram, pongal and kesari.

“After a small breakfast, Maduraiites are always hungry at around 11.00am It’s the perfect time to leave the workplace for a few minutes, to take a break and have tea or coffee”

By Ariane Lecuyer France

“People don’t have the time to eat breakfast, it’s not an important meal for us,” said Mrs. Kumar from Kumar Mess. For example, Mrs. Kumar still hasn’t eaten anything at 3.00p.m., and it’s like this everyday. Because of this, Kumar Mess feels that the breakfast trade would not be profitable, and so they don’t open in the mornings. One of the most common breakfasts for workers will be at a street food corner while waiting for the bus.

11.00am: First tea break

Dosas are one of the most popular dishes for Maduraiites, either for breakfast or dinner

After a small breakfast, Maduraiites are always hungry around 11.00am. It’s the perfect time to leave the workplace for a few minutes, to take a break and have tea or coffee. At Moolakarai bus station, a food chariot operated by M.Kamarutheen and his two sons sells sweet aappam, vadai, and masala vadai. In the afternoons, they sell samosa. They said that 90 percent of people will go for two vadais and a tea. They are open from 7.00am to 3.00pm, but he assured us that his busiest time is around 11.00am.

According to R. Murgesan, a coffee seller at Pasumalai, it’s mostly people working in the local area who come to him just to have a break. For the last 35 years, he has had regular customers coming from the bank, nearby shops and also the Madurai Messenger team!

Breaking for a morning coffee or tea is an essential part of the day for many Madurai residents

“M

adurai is famous for its temple, its jasmine flowers and, of course, its food” said A.Dhilip Bernard, 30, manager of the Sunshine Hotel. Indeed, here in Madurai, the food is available anytime and anywhere. When some shops close, some others will open, giving a constant spicy and intoxicating aroma to the city. It’s as though the city never sleeps, offering a neverending array of food for each meal and every taste. Nevertheless, restaurants and food stalls in Madurai must follow a strict schedule of dishes served at particular times if they want to be successful, a schedule imposed by the people of the city. So just what do they eat and when?

7.00am: A light breakfast In my home country of France, breakfast is always sweet. We have jam toast, muesli, juice, and other sweet tasting dishes. My first breakfast in India was therefore a big surprise and I still remember it fondly: Upma. This tasty semolina is one of the most popular dishes for breakfast in Madurai, and most families eat it at least once a week. Nevertheless, if a dish has to win the competition, it would surely be… the simple idli! These little disc-like rice delicacies are the heart of Madurai cuisine. “I’m personally fond of

idli,” enthused Sumant Khanna, the Gateway Hotel Sales Manager. Even if he could eat an extraordinary breakfast everyday at his restaurant, he still likes the traditional idli. This dish is eaten at any time of the day but is particularly good in the morning because it’s easy to digest. The dosa is also a dish served at anytime of the day, but eaten a lot for breakfast. Most of the time, basic restaurants will only sell idli and dosa for breakfast since they are the most popular. There are a lot of different varieties, from the plain dosa to the pineapple rava dosa. However, it seems people here prefer the simple, but tasty, masala dosa.

Vadai and dal vadai are surely the most popular snacks for this morning break. Nevertheless, some people would prefer the healthy option, the sweet and cheaper one - bananas. Sale of bananas at this time of the day is generally good.To this we can add: bun halwa, paniyaram, bonda and all other kinds of vadais.

1.00pm: A satisfying lunch In Madurai, there is one thing that has reigned for decades and will probably never change: the lunch thali. This traditional meal, normally served on a banana leaf, includes a large portion of white rice with sambar, rasam and curd. With all the different sambars available, this meal is enjoyed by most people. Wide choices of side dishes are usually available. Some diners eat soup, others prefer boiled vegetables, or even fried vegetables. Curd is an important part of thali, especially curd rice, which is eaten at the end of the meal to aid digestion. There is no better way for Maduraiites to fill their stomachs and ensure they have all the energy needed to work for the rest of the day.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

“In Madurai, there is one thing that has reigned for decades and will probably never change: the lunch thali”

Thali is a traditional South Indian meal eaten for lunch

Closely following in popularity is the famous biryani. “People here are crazy for biryani,” said Ashok Kumar, head chef at the Taj restaurant at the Gateway Hotel in Pasamulai. 22

Kumar Mess restaurant has to prepare it four times a day, and sell an incredible amount of 600 plates each day. Biryani comes in many different varieties: Mutton, chicken, vegetables or eggs. This spicy rice meal is also the traditional dish served for celebrations such as weddings and birthdays. For Mrs. Kumar it’s definitely the “traditional meal.”

R. Murugesan (52) has run a coffee stall on T.P.K. Road in Pasumalai. His son, M. Muthu Selvam (23), helps him

“Having met all sorts of people in Madurai to find out what they eat, I found a recurring theme: Everyone said that whenever they were away from Madurai, they missed their beloved idli, biryani and parotta!”

Because of the heat, people sometimes don’t feel like having hot tea or coffee after their lunch. At this time of the day, they mostly prefer to go for Jigarthanda. Nobody can say if it’s more a drink or a dessert, but as Amanulla, the owner of the famous Jigarthanda Shop said, “It’s Madurai’s specialty.” This mix of basundi, milk, ice cream, syrup and china grass was created by the father’s owner. Today, their popularity extends all over Tamil Nadu, and they serve this delicious fresh drink to an average of 1,000 customers a day.

6.00pm: Second tea time Between 5.00pm and 7.00pm, people can finally stop work and come back home. While waiting for the bus or walking home, it’s the perfect time to stop for five minutes for another tea. It’s mostly the same shops as in the morning, but they serve a different food for the afternoon. Here people will mostly go for the popular samosa or bajji. The samosa is made with potatoes, onions, curry leaves and masala. Because of this, it is a bit too spicy and heavy for the

People in Madurai are apparently crazy for biryani!

morning, but perfect for a little afternoon hunger. It’s easy to make. It originates from the North of India and is a popular snack all over India and around the world.

their religion. Meat eating Hindus will not eat meat if they are going to the temple on that particular day. And vegetarianism is even catching on for those simply seeking healthier options.

8.00pm: Another bite before bed

However, “People in Madurai love meat,” said Ashok Kumar of The Gateway Hotel. Mutton and chicken are the most popular with diners, and fish is also enjoyed, with the sea not being so far away.

At home with the family or out at the restaurant, dinner is a special meal to share. The biryani is a popular choice again. But the real contender and most popular meal is parotta, usually served in pairs with a vegetarian sambar or nonvegetarian curry. A lot of people eat vegetarian because of

Apparently, Maduraiites are especially fond of crab, which is a healthy and tasty option. Everyday in Kumar Mess, 65 kilograms of mutton, 30 kilograms of fish and 25 kilograms of crab are cooked. This sounds like a lot, and this is just one restaurant! Maduraiites must be fond of their meat.

Parottas have an eminent status in Madurai. Venkatesh from Projects Abroad, confessed that he has to have parottas three times a week because he loves it so much. However, it’s true that some other breads like chapati, naan, kulcha etc. will also be frequently served for dinner. “I can recognise Maduraiites just by looking at their order,” said Balakrishnan, head chef of the Sunshine Hotel. Traditional food is still deeply anchored in Madurai. Of course, some people, especially the younger generation, will sometimes go for a Western dish. But even in international cuisine, the most popular one here is Chinese because it uses some spices which are similar to Indian food. Having met all sorts of people in Madurai to find out what they eat, I found a recurring theme: Everyone said that whenever they were away from Madurai, they missed their beloved idli, biryani and parotta! Madurai is a city that is proud of its food culture Whether it’s their snacks through the day, dining out or cooking at home, eating is an important and much loved part of their day.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

Melting Moments: The Cloyingly Sweet Halwa Halwa is to India what chocolates are to Switzerland. Anne Zwahlen, a Swiss national, explores the halwa tradition in southern Tamil Nadu, and comes away smacking her lips at the delicious gooey amber colored sweet that just melts and dissolves away on her tongue in pure pleasure! By Anne Zwahlen Switzerland

W 24

hen I began researching halwa, I immediately thought of the sweet and crumbly treat from Eastern Europe that is easily found in my home country of Switzerland. Yet, I soon learned that halwa is also made in Africa, the Middle East and across Asia. Looking at the etymology of the word has been useful to determine its origins. Though it has been borrowed by many languages, the root word ‘halwa’ is Arabic and means sweet. Two main types can be differentiated: the flour-based halwa, made from semolina which has a gelatinous texture; and the nut-butter based halwa, made from tahini - a sesame seed paste. Indian halwa belongs to the first type. Even though halwa does not originate from India, it is much loved all over the country, and has become very popular with Madurai residents.

Tasty Treats We first scout ‘Prema Vilas Tirunelveli Lala Sweet Shop’ a crowded shop in Madurai. In this little corner, around fifteen employees of all ages are packing, weighing and serving the long queue of customers. The shop’s busy owner, Manohar Singh, 46, welcomes us at the counter while trying to keep his employees working. Manohar’s taste for selling halwa isn’t surprising. He is a native of Uttar Pradesh, where halwa is the

Siva Subramanian, the owner of Shanthi Sweets

Pots of mouth watering halwa in the Shanthi Sweets factory in Tirunelveli

traditional business. So far, ten people in his family have been involved in the trade. He proudly explains that his shop opened in 1952. Today, it serves an impressive 3,000 customers a day. Children and the elderly constitute the biggest portion and 80 percent of them are regular customers. Manohar explains about the four types of halwa he sells: milk, wheat, carrot and cashew. However, he specifies that the wheat halwa is the Indian people’s favourite. The main ingredients are wheat, water and sugar. In terms of quality ingredients, he uses only pure ghee which is, according to him, the main reason people come to his shop in particular. I assume that his 25 years of experience must also play a role in the success of his business. After the interview, he offers us a piece of halwa. It is surprisingly hot and served on a banana leaf. Eating the gelatinous treat with my fingers was quite an experience as well as its incredibly sweet taste.

Delicious halwa served on a banana leaf from Prema Vilas Tirunelveli Lala Sweet Shop in Madurai

“Looking at the crowd in the shop, people may think that it is a very easy business, but it is actually not so. There is a lot of work involved”

The Halwa Town

his crowded shop. “All these buildings belong to the company,” he explains.

Writing an article about halwa without going to Tirunelveli was unthinkable. The owner of Shanti Sweets. Mr. Siva Subramanian, 52, welcomes us into a comfortable office located just opposite

Siva Subramanian opened his shop in 1976, inspired by his father. It proved to be a good idea: everyday, about 5000 customers buy halwa from his

shop. Customers of all ages eat halwa here, and for all sorts of occasions and festivals. “Sabarimala season is a big plus point for us,” he says. Indeed, if people avoid savories because they contain garlic when they go to worship the gods, they will still buy halwa.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

Customers huddling up in front of Shanthi Sweets. Owner Siva Subramanian and his team serve 5,000 customers a day!

Halwa being made at Shanti Sweets factory in Tirunelveli

“Siva doesn’t actually know how to prepare the treat himself, but this doesn’t seem to prevent him from selling lots of halwa... He provides his employees with demonstration classes to learn how to make it”

Baskets of badhush, a sweet treat originating from North India, are made at Shanti Sweets

Everyone who works for Shanti Sweets is actively involved in its preparation and for most of them it is more a passion than a job. At the Shanti Sweets factory, we meet E. Sandhana Mariappan, 41, who has been working here for 22 years, who enjoys working in supplies.

Some savories being made at Shanti Sweets

Siva never expected that his shop would be such a huge success. In 1976, Tirunelveli halwa wasn’t as wellknown yet. As proof of his success, the owner of another shop in Tirunelveli, which was established in 1880, relocated to be opposite Siva’s shop. This doesn’t seem to bother Siva. “We consider that as our revolution and success,” he says.

come especially to Tirunelveli to buy it. As Siva Subramanian had explained to us, 90 percent of his customers are tourists. Shanti Shop is their favourite and they always come here to buy around one kilogram of halwa each for their families.

Siva doesn’t actually know how to prepare the treat himself, but this doesn’t seem to prevent him from selling lots of halwa. “I know if a halwa is good or not just by seeing it,” he says. He provides his employees with demonstration classes to learn how to make it. Preparing halwa is very difficult, depending on the quality of the wheat and even on the season.

“Looking at the crowd in the shop, people may think that it is a very easy business, but it is actually not so. There is a lot of work involved,” confirms Siva.

believes it’s better for one person to have only one job. The shop is also open 24 hours, and also sells savories and other sweets.

Melt in your mouth

It seems Siva Subramanian’s success is due to his hard work and his dedicated team of employees. His shop shows perfect organisation with each worker having his own task. He

Though his father inspired him with the idea to start his business, Siva realises that the shop may disappear after he stops working. “This business will be here only while I am here. After

The two crowded shops before us reveal a lot about Indians’ enthusiasm for Halwa. N. Pitchumani, 23, Premkumar N., 23, A. Velammal, 52, N. Gomathi, 48, from Kovilpatti, have been eating halwa since they were children and

that, I can’t expect my children to do it,” he admits.

Factory Manager G. Namachivayam, 63, who started working with Shanti sweets 36 years ago enjoys overseeing operations. He is proud of the good atmosphere in the factory. “Our relationship is like father, brother, mother and sister,” he says. It is amazing how a simple sweet can be such a big success. This delicious gooey amber coloured treat seems to be an important part of the Indian diet and a much loved aspect of Indian culture.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

Coffee Cravings

Coffee master Surulinathan, at Vasantham Hotel and Restaurant

“Coffee, coffee, chai, chai!” Catch a train anywhere in India and you’ll hear this mesmerizing chant from vendors roaming the platforms and carriage isles. Captivated by the caffeine cravings of Indians and tourists alike, Ariane Lecuyer goes in search of good cup of coffee in Madurai. She finds the best coffee for every kind of occasion and is entertained by the coffee devotees she meets along the way

Smooth Operators If you want to enjoy coffee with friends and chat for hours, the best places to go are Coffee Ecstasy in Vishal de Mal on Gokhle Road, or one of the two Cafe Coffee Days in Annarnagar and Thiruppalai. The concept in each place is similar. Ambiance in Cafe Coffee Day is created with comfortable chairs, colourful walls, nice music and chatter from other customers. The best part is the impressive choice of coffee and patisseries. Whereas Coffee Ecstasy shares the space with other restaurants in the buzzing food court of the Vishal de Mal. The selection on offer includes many European styles such as the café latte, cappuccino, expresso and ice coffee. Coffee Ecstacy is the only place in Madurai where you can have Lavazza coffee, a proper imported Italian brew. The shop is the brainchild of four entrepreneurial friends: Abisheik (24), Vignesh.S. (25), Pradeep Kumar (23) and Mohammed Iqbal (28). All engineering graduates, they love coffee culture and are keen to bring Western coffee to Madurai. “We just wanted to develop Madurai,” Abisheik said.

By Ariane Lecuyer France

He doesn’t seem to be wrong! They’ve been open only for a couple of months and yet they already sell more than 100 coffees a day during the week, and 200 each day on the weekends. Why name their shop Coffee Ecstasy? Because when you have a good coffee you can feel the joy. The name itself promises a great coffee experience.

In search of a similar concept, we also went to the Side Walk Café at the Germanus Hotel. From the street, the place looks inviting. Once inside, we were delighted by the patisseries on offer. Unfortunately, they only have two choices of coffees: milk coffee or cold coffee. While it may not provide much of a coffee selection, it’s quite nice that they let customers mix their own sugar, and it’s possible to ask for the milk separately. Apart from that, the ambiance is pleasant enough.

Finely Ground Of course, we don’t always have time for long sit down sessions in nice cafes. A quick fix of coffee is just the boost people in Madurai often need, and we are no different! The most common way to enjoy coffee is at street side stalls, large and small. They can be found on just about every corner of the city! After sampling many cups around Madurai, we found two places that in our opinion, have the best coffee. It’s exactly this kind of street shop, always crowded and messy, that has an abundance Indian charm and tradition.

Left: The most common cup of coffee made in the traditional way with milk and sugar Centre & Right: A decadent iced coffee, and a cafe latte from Coffee Ecstacy in Vishal de Mal in Madurai

offee is the most popular drink in the world, with over 400 billion cups consumed each year. Though many assume that chai (tea) is the hot caffeinated drink of choice in India, coffee is actually just as popular in South India, if not more so. The rich, dark roasted taste can be enjoyed in many ways. It may be a vital kick start to the day, a special brew shared between friends, or a pick me up in the afternoon. Making coffee is an art. Here in Madurai, you can find small shops on just about every corner selling coffee and tea. The

method for coffee making involves toppling the milk and coffee mixture between the cup and a pot. The tradition here is to serve it with sugar, milk and sometimes chicory. However, Western influences are also creeping in with the emergence of café culture and imported coffee. After spending two weeks trying coffee at different shops in Madurai, our Sub Editor and Journalism Manager (and fellow coffee addict), Ingelise Jones, and I found it difficult to choose a favourite. We can, however, recommend where to go according to your desires and tastes.

Visalam’s coffee master R. Vasu serves up a much needed cup of coffee for us

PTR in Kalavasan has been churning out delicious brews for the past 25 years, and New Visalam Coffee in Thalakuam has served loyal customers for the past 30 years. In both shops, the secret is the same: to have a perfect coffee, you have to grind the coffee beans in-house. PTR buys their beans from the well known South Indian coffee company, Narasus. Visalam goes even further and buys it straight from Hasan Coffee Estate Kalaikaveri, Coorg.

Madurai Messenger Gastronomic Delicacies July 2012

“ It’s exactly this kind of street shop, always crowded and messy, that has an abundance of Indian charm and tradition”

Coffee master Balaji loves his job at PTR, where he has made coffee and tea for the past 15 years. Here, he demonstrates the long pour or ‘coffee meter’

Singaran - coffee master at Visalam

stronger. Without chicory, the taste will be more about the coffee. They make both types here, in an attempt to satisfy everybody. And it must be working. They make about 700 cups a day, 400 in the morning and 300 in the afternoon. Balaji drinks only two cups of coffee a day but also enjoys three cups of tea and a glass of milk, on his own strict hot drink schedule. With a sweet smile, he tells us that that he likes his job very much.

Beyond Brewing

Coffee Lovers T.K Ashok, 56, is the creator of Visalam. He loves coffee so much that he would never drink a bad one, no matter how much he needs it. After roasting the beans, he can instantly tell if his brew will be bad or good. If it’s not good enough, he will send it back to the factory. In total, he drinks six halfcups of coffee everyday. He believes it will help prevent heart attacks. To him, profit doesn’t matter, it’s only the coffee that holds his full attention. It must be the secret to his success and definitely the reason for his delicious coffee!

The traditional South Indian method to mix the coffee involves flair and precision. A toppling act shifts milk, coffee and sugar from vessel to cup back and forth with speed. The key is the length of the pour… the longer the distance between vessels, the better! For Madurai coffee masters, they refer to the distance as the ‘coffee meter.’ Balaji has been working at PTR for 15 years, and people here recognise his talent by calling him ‘master.‘ To him, the secret of a good coffee is about the chicory. With chicory, it will be

Here in Madurai, good coffee depends on many different factors. Firstly, it’s about the quality of the beans. Secondly, it lies in the talent of the coffee master. And thirdly, depending on how you like to enjoy your coffee, the ambiance and the crowd. Coffee is available all over Madurai. You can count on coffee lovers like T.K Ashok and Balaji to make a great cup. However, if you’re looking for a more Western coffee experience and taste, Coffee Ecstacy is the place for you! “Coffee, coffee, chai, chai!!” We here it everywhere in India! Our next inquisition should now be on the best place to have a nice cup of chai!

R. Vasu - coffee master at Visalam

“Looking at the crowd in the shop, people may think that it is a very easy business, but it is actually not so. There is a lot of work involved” The coffee grinder at Visalam

Madurai Messenger A Day in the Life of... July 2012

Elevating Cooking to a Fine Art

“Now in his third year at Hotel Sunshine, his impressive culinary experience allows him to serve whatever the customer expects”

Anne Zwahlen spends a day with Balakrishnan, Head chef of Hotel Sunshine and discovers rather surprisingly that being a chef is more about supervising and managing a team than actual cooking! By Anne Zwahlen Switzerland

Mr J. Balakrishnan has been the chef at Hotel Sunshine for three years

European kitchens are like. I have always imagined them full of people shouting and running everywhere, their arms overflowing with dishes and trying to meet customers’ requests. However, here, the workers seem peaceful and organised, each of them taking care of a precise task.

12.00am: The chef arrives while Bernard is showing us different spices. He seems as peaceful and confident as his employees, and far from the stressful person we imagine when we think of a head chef. Bernard, the manager at Hotel Sunshine, explaining the organization of the kitchen

he talent with which chefs combine passion, creativity and an impressive resistance to pressure, while constantly looking for innovation, has led me believe it must be one of the most demanding professions. I was therefore curious and excited by the idea of spending a whole day with one of these masters who are able to satisfy customers’ requests without forgetting that cooking is also an art in itself.

10.00am: Volunteer Ariane Lecuyer and I step into the rickshaw outside our office. Suddenly, without any warning, the driver decides that it is the moment to go, with or without our Projects Abroad staff member. After saying several times, “Sir, stop! Please!” he finally notices that someone is missing! Venkatesh, Journalism Desk Officer, joins us and we leave for Hotel Sunshine where we will spend the day with the restaurant’s head chef.

11.00am: The rickshaw stops in front of the hotel were we are cordially invited to sit in the lobby and offered mango juice. We meet A.Dhilip Bernard, 30, the manager, who shows us the different types of rooms at the hotel and a nice restaurant on the roof. He then let us get into the kitchen. I’m rather surprised to notice the calm and quiet atmosphere that reigns in this place. My views of a typical restaurant kitchen are perhaps influenced by what

Smiling, he wipes his hands on his apron before shaking ours. His name is J.Balakrishnan and he is 35 years old. He has been cooking for 13 years with experience in almost all cuisines. Before Hotel Sunshine, he worked in Malaysia and Sri Lanka. Here in India, he has also worked in Ooty, Chennai and Kerala as a sous-chef. His frequent travels in Asia give him a thorough knowledge of different styles of Asian cooking. Balakrishnan has also been cooking Continental food for six years. He confides in us by admitting that he really likes cooking and eating Italian food. Now in his third year at Hotel Sunshine, his impressive culinary experience allows

him to serve whatever the customer expects. Nowadays, the customer’s satisfaction is most important: more and more people ask to talk to the chef to know what a dish is made of and if it’s healthy or not.

Balakrishnan’s hours are quite flexible. Everyday, he comes to work around sometime between 7.00am and 10.00am, whenever the restaurant needs him. We learn a surprising fact: the chef usually doesn’t cook. His role is to supervise. Every morning, he takes care of the work space: he inspects the kitchen to see if all is clean. If anything is dirty, he calls the cleaning service. After that, he verifies all the ingredients to see what is available, what they need to buy, and if any food such as milk, meat and vegetables is spoilt. A normal day for him lasts seven hours. Sometimes, he takes a break in the afternoon and works, for example, from 10.00am to 3.00pm and from 7.00pm to 11.00pm. He usually takes advantage of his break to go home and see his family. The fact that his hours aren’t fixed doesn’t necessarily make his job easier. Indeed, Balakrishnan has to always be available. “Sometimes, if the breakfast

Yummy curd, sambar and rasam ready to be served at Hotel Sunshine

is very busy, I will come at 7.00am. Whenever they need me, I come,” he explains. Everything depends on the number of customers. Though his job demands a lot of him, the chef affirms that it isn’t a real source of pressure for him. It’s only during peak hours that the work starts to be more intense: usually during breakfast, lunch and dinner and

Madurai Messenger A Day in the Life of... July 2012

There is No Food

sometimes for parties. The problem is that the peak period can also come at anytime. Otherwise, he says it’s quite a peaceful job for him. He even has the time to answer to our questions in the restaurant, seated at the table.

like Home Food! Vishal Home Catering, run by the enterprising Madurai-based couple Rajalakshmi and Ganesan, is all about respecting and responding to people’s need for wholesome home cooked food. Their clients include working men who stay away from their families, working women, the elderly, as well as families hosting guests. Festive occasions and family functions are another source of business that is all about making life easier for others

1.00pm: We come back in the kitchen and, this time, we can feel the activity. I think that the rapidity with which the rush came is impressive. Ten minutes ago, we were still quietly interviewing the chef in the restaurant. The staff seem more focused than nervous. The kitchen itself seems to be buzzing with energy: steam is escaping out of saucepans full of boiling water, a man is peeling a mango and, on the table, a huge papaya is waiting to be cut. I can hear someone sharpening knives and the heat is intense.

Written on a white board is a list of the food items that are unavailable for the day. Very few compared to some other Indian restaurants where half of the menu seems to have disappeared. Orders start to come to the counter at an incredible speed. The chef tastes one of the dishes and explains to us that if he sometimes tastes the food, he confirms his confidence in the skills of his employees. Indeed, he compares his relationship with his junior team members like that of father and son, and with the older team members, he says they are friends. No doubt this contributes to a great atmosphere based on mutual respect. Balakrishnan ensures each of his team members are capable and teaches them himself. He takes the time to introduce us to each of them. One by one, they come to us, smiling, and don’t seem annoyed at all to have been disturbed during their work. Karthick, 23, has two years of experience and cooks Indian and South Indian food. Shankar, 21, from the West of Bengal, has been cooking for two years and prepares North Indian food and Tandoori. Finally, Raja, 23, has been here for a year and cooks Chinese food.

35 By Anne Zwahlen Switzerland

S One of the cooks busy cooking

While his juniors are cooking, a man brings the customer orders to the chef, who checks them and shouts out the contents of the order to his employees. He explains to us that he can guess what kind of customers they have just by reading the orders. Showing us one of the orders, he says, “That’s South Indian people.” The activity grows more and more intense and I am clumsily taking my notes while trying to not disturb their work and avoid the coming and going of waiters carrying hot plates full of gravies. Looking at the food in the kitchen, we are suddenly intrigued by a yellow

liquid mixture. We start trying to guess what it could be. “Maybe it’s a mango lassi,” I say. The chef informs us that it is in fact mayonnaise. That’s indeed kind of different, and not something we’ve come across much during our time in India.

2.00pm: Being surrounded by food makes us hungry and so we decide to have our lunch there. Before we leave, the chef comes to say goodbye and we thank him for the delicious food and for the opportunity to discover a little of what a typical day in the life of a head chef is like.

ome women have the impressive capacity to manage a full time job and domestic responsibilities with commitment and passion. Even within a few minutes of being in K.Raja Lakshmi’s house, her warm welcome was an accurate indicator of passion and efficiency. While several employees were preparing different dishes in the other rooms, Raji took the time to answer our questions even though our arrival in the morning coincided with the busiest time of the day. It was hard not to be impressed by the perfect balance between strength, authority and real kindness that Raji exuded. K.Raja Lakshmi, 43, popularly known as Raji, manages not only one, but two jobs. Apart from her primary vocation as history and geography teacher at the TVS school in Madurai, she also runs a successful home catering business. Raji describes the Vishal home catering business (named after her mother who was an inspiration and source of support in the business venture) as a “small family business.” Indeed, her mother used to help while her health still allowed her to work. She specifies, however, that this business belongs to her husband, R.C. Ganesh, 51. He is also in the room, sitting behind his wife. His main role in the business is to supply and, sometimes, to deliver.

Raji, speaking of her home catering business, Vishal, with passion

“If it’s regular cooking, 30 people everyday. They are regular customers. And sometimes it goes up to fifty, sixty and sometimes eighty. It always keeps increasing” Raji and Ganesh were originally living in Andhra Pradesh, where he was a pharmacist and she, a teacher. When Ganesh left Andhra Pradesh for Madurai, Raji stayed behind with her younger son and came to Madurai only two years later. Here, she continued teaching and simultaneously began to make savories with her husband. “Slowly, people started asking us, “Why don’t you also cater?” she explains. And that’s how the home catering business started in 2003.

Madurai Messenger Entrepreneurs July 2012

Appetizing savories being cooked in Vishal Home Catering

Two of Raji Lakshmi’s employees making savoury treats for the business

“Raji’s catering arm even extends overseas. Just a month ago, she sent food items to London”

their families during the week and who therefore find it difficult to get good food. There is a strong link between Raji’s home catering business and the customers. Most of them want to eat only the food prepared by Raji’s home run business.

Everyday, two women come to help prepare the dishes, although Raji and her husband first began their business without outside help. For special occasions, a chef comes to make savouries. Indeed, the number of customers is always increasing. Raji confirms this fact when we ask her how many orders she gets in a day. “If it’s regular cooking, 30 people everyday. They are regular customers. And sometimes it goes up to 50, 60 and sometimes eighty. It always keeps increasing,” she says.

One of Raji’s oldest and most loyal customers is Shakuntala, 86, who has been a customer for the past eight years. “She was living alone, as her children were in Bangalore and Kodaikanal. Last week she left Madurai as her children did not want her to stay alone.” Before she left, she told Raji how much she would miss their food. Raji recalls Shakuntala words, “I want to pass away from this world and in the last minute, have food only from your place.”

Recently, there has been a significant increase in the demand for home catering. Most of Raji’s customers are elderly people and working people, especially men who live away from

Another interesting trend is that an increasing number of people ask for home catering on special occasions. Families ask for their help for parties as well as when they are about to welcome guests. “The Indian scenario is totally different today,” says Raji. “People want

to devote their entire time only to their guests and they don’t want to spend time in the kitchen.”

varieties such as coconut, tamarind, and lemon rice. But special catering is normally only for large orders.

Indeed, most families only take a few days off to welcome their guests and want to spend as much time with them as possible. Another interesting aspect is that most people often ask for basic things such as idli or sambar powder, sometimes a sweet dish, which are always fresh and easy-to-cook. They will then cook only the rice at home. It makes their life easier and frees up time for activities such as shopping or going to the temple, for example.

“If it’s for a large number, it’s fine. If it is just for one person, we won’t. It’s difficult. Maybe if it’s different types of rice, we would prepare it. For example, if someone asks for boiled rice, we make it. There are people who are diabetic who prefer boiled rice. This happens on a regular basis.” she says. Later, she adds, “Customer satisfaction is ultimate.”

Raji’s catering arm even extends overseas. Just a month ago, she sent food items to London. She explains that a lot of families like to send food to a relative living abroad. Although, the food prepared in Ganesh and Raji’s business is traditional, customers can always come with an idea or ask for certain dishes for specific occasions. For example, during baby showers, when people usually ask for mixed rice

As for her own food preferences, Raji also appreciates Western and Chinese food. “I enjoy it but I don’t make it,” she says. She also explains to us that she doesn’t cook anything specific for her family, because the food that they make for customers is the food that they eat. Her children, however, particularly like any kind of mixed rice, which she prepares for them when she finds the time. “Normally it’s my husband who prepares that. He’s very good at that,” she admits.

Raji Lakshmi and her husband Ganesh, a beautiful collaboration

Managing two jobs at the same time also means facing challenges everyday, but Raji’s enthusiasm and drive for hardwork is impressive. The home catering business also shows a beautiful familial collaboration and a mutual respect between husband and wife. The fact that they don’t do

any advertising except word of mouth and visiting cards is a testament of customer satisfaction. When we finally left Ganesh and Raji’s house, our arms where full of delicious savouries. Needless to say, their food speaks for itself. This is a couple for whom their profession is also their passion.

Madurai Messenger Culture Kitchen July 2012

Kesari Queen Earns Her Crown

“Cooking, like any art, is a process. And the joy in creativity lies in enjoying every moment of the process from start to finish, and not obsessing with the end result“

This month, we turned the Culture Kitchen spotlight on our Editor, Dr. Nandini Murali. It was time for our volunteers to sample some South Indian delicacies made with love and flair. What unfolded was a highly successful ‘cooking show’ by this at first shy cook, who soon earned her much deserved title as Kesari Queen!

of an audience that hung on to my every word and watched my every move as I attempt to churn out appetizing fare? To add to my woes, this was my debut cooking demonstration! But Inge, an unabashed fan of my cooking, was certain that I would exceed her expectations! Egged on by the Halo Effect of basking in an enviable culinary track record, I braced myself for the show!

By Dr. Nandini Murali Editor, Madurai Messenger

Our Editor, Dr. Nandini Murali

38 Anne Zwahlen (Switzerland) and Rose Groenink (The Netherlands) chop onions to assist Nandini, while chef Shankar supervises

Cooking, like any art, is a process. And the joy in creativity lies in enjoying every moment of the process from start to finish, and not obsessing with the end result. And so I flowed on…. Beginning with shopping for the essential ingredients. Even this was a novel experience as in the absence of my wellstocked home kitchen, I had to make a list of what I needed for my culinary endeavor. Despite my foolproof list, a few items managed to evade my scrutiny but I managed to get them in a last minute effort! My home kitchen is my own feminine space. Hence it was a novel experience to enter the Projects Abroad Kitchen that seemed less personal, and clearly a masculine space stamped with the persona of the male chefs Shankar, Silambarasan and Suresh.

Dr. Nandini Murali makes Kesari by frying the semolina with lots of ghee

s we grow older, our culinary tastes come full circle. We come back to the taste and smell of the food of our childhood. Having acquired a taste for the delectable North Indian cuisine, I also picked up expertise in cooking it myself. Yet increasingly, my preference is for South Indian cuisine—the food of my youth. When Ingelise Jones, aka Inge, Sub Editor of Madurai Messenger, suggested that I take over this month’s culture kitchen, my obvious choice was to showcase traditional Tamil

Brahmin cooking, an inherited legacy of my community. I was both excited and apprehensive. Excited by the prospect, I delved into my culinary heritage of the classic Tamil Brahmin dishes - the lip smacking kesari or semolina pudding and the universal favourite- ven (white) pongal, a delicious blend of rice and lentils cooked in milk and seasoned with generous dollops of ghee. Yet the initial burst of spontaneous enthusiasm was soon tempered by niggling doubts. Would I be able to cook in front

Reassured and encouraged by the solicitous and proactive Shankar, I began my culinary adventure. The volunteers chopped veggies and peeled the shallots (small onions). However, it was Shankar’s deft and ‘professional’ chopping that elevated what I considered drudgery into a fine art. I washed the rice and lentils and allowed it to cook while I turned my attention to other items on the menu. Soon a crowd gathered and I began to make kesari. This is a festive dessert and finds a pride of place on auspicious occasions in such as marriages, engagements and festivals in South India. Although deceptively simple and easy to make, to achieve mastery in making this, symbolizes perfection. In every Tamil Brahmin household, kesari, otherwise known as soji, is served when a prospective bridegroom arrives to appraise the bride! In fact the sweet-savory combo, soji-bhajji, is a non negotiable during potential marital negotiations! My maternal grandmother was an expert in making this dish.

Madurai Messenger Culture Kitchen July 2012

Nandini’s very popular creations were devoured in minutes! L-R: Shallot Gothsu, Ven Pongal and Kesari

Shallot (Small Onion) Gothsu

Ven Pongal Kesari (White or Savory Pongal) or Semolina Pudding

A lip smacking tangy concoction of shallots and tomatoes.

A delicious concoction of rice and lentils cooked in water and milk and garnished with pepper, cumin seeds and fried cashews.

• Preparation Time: 30 minutes • Cooking Time: 15 minutes • Serves: 3 Madurai Messenger Editor Dr. Nandini Murali aka Kesari Queen, works with Projects Abroad cook Shankar to make delicious kesari

“In every Tamil Brahmin household, kesari, otherwise known as soji, is served when a prospective bridegroom arrives to appraise the bride!“ However, the first time my mother made this mouth-watering dessert was when my husband and I visited my mother’s place after marriage. I assembled all the ingredients needed for my culinary queen act. After all, I had a hard won reputation as a Kesari Queen and was keen to live up to it. The art of making super kesari lies in frying the semolina (Rava) with generous helpings of ghee. Compromise on the quantity of ghee, and you end up with ungainly clumps of semolina that look like stubborn knots! When I asked my mother to teach me to make kesari, she wisely advised me to watch her make the dish. Indeed much of traditional cooking is a hand me down legacy from mother to daughter. Which is why modern day cookbooks and cookery websites can never capture the actual experience of ‘receiving’ a family recipe; although they may be methodologically exact! With a group gathered around me, I felt more like a TV show cook than the typical domestic cook that I am used to

being with no one around me except space and my Golden Retriever, Goldie! As I saw the kesari in all its golden goodness simmering on a low fame, with strands of saffron languidly floating on the molten surface, a surge of happiness welled within… The final effort involved garnishing it with fried currants and cashew strewn randomly across the perfectly blended saffron yellow dessert! As the Projects Abroad staff began to stream into the dining area, my culinary expertise was now under the harsh glare of public gaze! Jagadish Kumar, Director of Projects Abroad India, and an unabashed foodie, sauntered in and sampled the fare! After a few moments of critical savouring, he declared it, “Amazing!” I, however, was still unsure about a compliment from a die-hard foodie and even asked him if he were being “politely (and politically!) correct!” He countered me with his quality of brutal honesty in taste matters. And to vindicate his stand, he returned for generous second and third helpings of kesari! Both the kesari and pongal were polished within seconds— a cook’s ultimate compliment and moment of satisfaction! I glowed with scholarly pride when even chef Shankar told me that the kesari was delicious! The last time I felt thrilled by a compliment was when my doctoral thesis was commended by the overseas examiner!

• Ingredients: Shallots: ¼ kg (peeled) Tomatoes: ½ kg (chopped) Tamarind: lemon-sized (soaked) Chilli powder: 1 tsp Turmeric Powder: a pinch Salt to taste • Garnishing: Mustard: 1 tsp • Method: 1. Chop the shallots and tomatoes fine. 2. In a little oil, splutter mustard. 3. Add onions and sauté. 4.Then add tomatoes and sauté. 5. After the onions and tomatoes are sautéed, add chili ponder and turmeric powder. 6. Extract juice from tamarind and add to the sautéed veggies. 7. Add salt. 8. Add more water and let it simmer on low flame. 9. Garish with coriander and curry leaves.

• Preparation Time: 10 minutes • Cooking Time: 45 minutes • Serves: 3 • Ingredients: Raw Rice: 1 cup Lentils (yellow): a handful Water: 4 times Milk: 1-2 ladles Asafoetida (an Indian spice): a pinch Salt to taste • Garnishing: Cumin Seeds: 1 ½ tsp. Pepper: 1 ½ tsp. Fresh: Ginger: a small piece Curry leaves: a handful Cashews (halves): a handful • Method: 1.Wash rice. 2.Saute the dry lentils and mix with rice. 3.Add four times water and cook in electric rice cooker. Alternatively pressure cook or cook directly in a thickbottomed vessel on gas stove. 4.When the rice is well cooked, mash it, slowly adding milk. 5. Coarsely powder cumin and pepper. 6. In ghee, fry the cumin-pepper powder, chopped ginger and curry leaves and add to the rice. 7. Serve hot with shallots-tomato gravy.

A heavenly dessert that is simply divine and divinely simple! • Preparation Time: 10 minutes • Cooking Time: 20 minutes • Ingredients: Semolina: 1 cup Sugar: 2 ½ cups Water: 2 cups Milk: 1 cup Ghee: 2-3 ladles • Garnishing: Currants: a handful Cashew: a handful Saffron: a few strands Kesari yellow powder: a few pinches • Method: 1.Fry the semolina to reddish brown in sufficient ghee. 2. Boil the milk and water separately and add it to the fried semolina. 3. Stir continuously to ensure that no lumps are formed. 4. When the semolina is cooked, add a few pinches of kesari yellow powder. 5. When it is well cooked, lower flame and add sugar. 6. Increase the flame and allow the sugar to melt. Stir constantly to ensure that it is well blended. 7. Switch off the flame. 8. Garnish with cashews and currants fired in ghee. 9. Serve hot or chilled.

Madurai Messenger People July 2012

Lily Amirtham: Everybody’s Favourite Grandma! Enchanted by good food, a generous heart and a beautiful home, Ariane Lecuyer meets Lily Amirtham – A cookbook author, social worker, grandmother and artist who has spent her life cooking and caring for others By Ariane Lecuyer France

n the roof top of Grace Kennett Foundation Hospital is an apartment that is a complete contrast to the medical surroundings. To go inside, you have to pass a row of flowers: water lily, roses and even hibiscus. Then, we enter another world…

The floor is covered with a green soft carpet; the walls are painted yellow and adorned with floral paintings. At the centre of the kitchen is a table covered with a Provencal tablecloth from France, with olives and sunflowers. In this warm atmosphere, Lily Amirtham is waiting for us with coffee and homemade chocolate cake.

L-R: The Rt. Reverend Bishop Samul Amirtham, volunteer Ariane Lecuyer (France), Journalism Supervisor, Pooja B., Anne Zwahlen (Switzerland), Lily Amirtham and Kourei Yoshibe (Japan)

Excerpts from the interview Why did you decide to write down all the recipes you knew?

Lily Amirtham, 76, is a cookbook author and social worker. A former faculty of the Department of History, Lady Doak College, her travels around the world with her theologian husband The Rt. Reverend Bishop Samul Amirtham, was a window to world cuisines. In 2006, her passion for cooking led her to publish the Amirtham Family Cook Book, a collection of 249 recipes. The cookbook is the fabulous result of ten years of writing and testing traditional South Indian recipes. Lily Amirtham’s desire to share her culinary knowledge with as many people as possible was the spirit that egged her on to complete the book. A dedicated social worker, Lily Amirtham, through her trust in Parasala in Kerala, works with socially and economically disadvantaged women to enable them to script an independent and empowered life. She also supports her husband in his several charitable foundations and more recently, as care taker and companion in his chronic illness. Her stress busters are painting and cooking. When she was 50 years, inspired by the scenic mountainous landscape in Geneva, Lily Amirtham discovered the pleasures of painting. Two years ago, she held a solo exhibition of her paintings at Grace Kennett Foundation Hospital and then another in Trivandrum. Although her aim at first was only to share her work, she agreed to raise money from the sale of the paintings and gifted it to the orphanage, ‘Mazhalai Illam’ run by the Grace Kennett Foundation.

I was mainly writing for my children and grandchildren. You know, culture and practices are changing now, but I want them to know all details about their own traditions. Hence I thought they should learn the basics and I decided to write down everything even from the simplest step—to cook plain rice. The idea came from my daughter, Asha. All my recipes were only written in old booklets, which had pages falling out. She said to me, “Amma, look, all these papers are coming out! You will lose it and, when you will have gone, my children and I will not be able to find the recipes. Why don’t you start writing a book?” That was in 2001, and at the time, my husband became sick. While spending a lot of time at the neurological hospital to take care of him, I slowly started to write down the recipes in my dairy. I even remember, the first recipe I wrote was puttu! Lily Amirtham (76), cookbook author and social worker

Lily Amirtham’s warmth and care during the interview reminded of such moments with my own grandmother. A few days after, she sent a letter to thank us. The last sentence, “If you are missing your Quiche Lorraine or Potato Gratin, please let me know, we shall fix an evening meal here in my kitchen. I would much love to cook something like that.” These words will always remain in my memory.

You started to write in 2001 but your book was finally published in 2006. Why did it take so long? This is simply because I needed all this time. I started to write at the hospital, and I just put down everything I could remember. Then, I had to come back home to try these recipes in order to know the exact measurement for all ingredients. Finally, I typed it on the computer. It took a long time not only because it’s a long process but also because I didn’t know that I had so many recipes in mind! To be

honest, I never thought that I was born to write such a book. I thought it would only be some small booklets. However, once I started, I realised that it should be a complete book. I then decided to write all the recipes I know, even by including some friends’ recipes.

I couldn’t find any information about your book on the Internet or elsewhere. Why didn’t you try to promote it? This book is only for my children, grandchildren and maybe - who knows - my great grandchildren! It’s only for a private circulation, as you can see on the first page, it says: This edition is not for sale but to be shared among family and friends.

All these recipes are thus traditional South Indian? Yes. I lived in Switzerland for ten years, so I also included some Western recipes, but only a few. My mother is from Neyoor, a place close to Nagercoil, and my husband’s mother is from Parassala in Kerala. I have then typical Tamil Nadu recipes from my mother, as well as typical Kerala recipes from my husband’s side. And I have to say, that all I know comes from these two women.

At what age did you start cooking? To be honest, I don’t think I was that good a cook when I started, but I used to watch my mother in the kitchen. By looking at her, I then learned all the techniques before cooking by myself. At around 12-13 years of age, I started to help her, just with little tasks like peeling vegetables. I think the first dish I cooked entirely on my own was upma!

Madurai Messenger People July 2012

“I don’t know when I started to like cooking, but even now I can surely say that it’s still my first love. I love cooking, I LOVE cooking…and I love eating as well!

Is there one dish that you particularly like to cook? I like to cook fish curries. However, I also like to try complicated dishes - something exotic like ‘Navratan Kurma, Goan Vindaloo, Chinese sweet and sour chicken, German “Rouladen” or British trifle.

What is most important to you when you are cooking: health or taste?

When did you realise your passion for cooking?

Now, I look for health. I have to because of my son’s health, and I realise now the importance of healthy food. In this cookbook, all my recipes are probably not healthy, because it’s the traditional way. For example, a particular variety of payasam from Kerala needs seven litres of milk. It’s a rich dish which is definitely too high in fat.

I don’t know when I started to like cooking, but even now I can surely say that it’s still my first love. I love cooking, I LOVE cooking…and I love eating as well! (Laughs)

Why do you think cookbooks are so popular today?

Everyone’s favourite grandma, Lily Amirtham, loves cooking and eating!

I think I developed it when my children were small. My son loves meat and fish, so I used to cook non-vegetarian food for him. Today, he still remembers those dishes from his earlier boyhood days, and tells me, “Can you make this dish exactly as you did it when I was younger?” As for my daughter, she must have a dessert everyday. When she came back from school, the first thing she said to me was: “Mum, what do we have for dessert?” I think she took after my husband, because it’s the same for him. With all these demands, I used to cook a lot to satisfy my family. Now I probably cook more for my grandchildren. My daughter’s daughter told her mother: ”Amma, you don’t know how to cook. Only grandma can cook.” I’m her favourite, so I cook for her.

What is your favorite dish? Fish. I love fish. Especially two types of curry. One is from my mother’s kitchen, and the other is from my mother in law. Even if it doesn’t come from far away places, they are quite different and both are so good. You know, there is a big difference between Kerala and Tamil Nadu food. You can feel it with the amount of sugar or chilli. Besides, even between North Kerala and South Kerala there is a difference. We could even say that from each family it differs.

I think people want to know more recipes. Everybody does not have access to the Internet but everybody wants to know a bit of cooking. I too have a collection of cook books. In fact, I have a very big library full of cook books and art books. I sometimes need to look at a book. Not for the ordinary Indian cooking of course, it is all in our mind. Also for the way of adding ingredients, one after another or mixed ahead and added - you just do it automatically. This, I think might differ from family to family. You learn it from watching your mother. If I am cooking a complicated fish or meat dish or western recipes, I definitely need to check measurement and the method of doing each step.

Did you ever think of setting up your own restaurant? No, I only cook for family and friends - and we have a large number of friends! During the 1970s, I was a teacher at the Lady Doak College in Madurai, before leaving for Geneva. I began to cook for my colleagues for Easter, Pongal and all other festivals and celebrations. As my husband was the director of the Tamil Nadu Theological College in Madurai, he used to invite colleagues to our house. Our table was always full. Even today, living in Grace Kennett Foundation Hospital, I’m still cooking for people, for a doctor’s birthday for example. It’s my pleasure.

A Culinary Heirloom Ariane Lecuyer reviews the Amirtham Family Cookbook and discovers a unique book filled with nostalgia and tradition—a world of artisanal cooking where recipes were handed down from mother to daughter or daughter-inlaw. Every recipe in the book is so precisely written so that even the worst cook can rustle up a decent meal! By Ariane Lecuyer France

n 2006, the first edition of the Amirtham Family Cookbook was published. Intended only to be shared with family and friends, and to be passed on to the next generation, author Lily Amirtham printed 1000 copies. It is a must have in every foodie’s library. With the aim of passing on South Indian traditional cooking, Lily Amirtham not only created an authentic collection of delicious recipes, she also wrote a wonderful book that sets it apart from others in the same genre. It’s not just a book to consult when we need to cook a dish. The book begins with an introduction, written by Lily Amirtham herself. In our modern and busy world, the traditional oral way of passing on Indian cooking is now becoming a thing of the past. People even start to forget how to cook the simplest dish. These were some of the core concerns that worried the author. Hence she readily accepted her daughter’s fabulous idea to write down all the recipes that she had inherited as a culinary heirloom from her mother and mother-in-law, as well as several others she learned from friends, books, magazines and newspapers. The author has also made the book user-friendly even for people who don’t know anything not only about India but also about cooking. Indeed,

Madurai Messenger Book Review July 2012

A RAINBOW OF

Multiculturalism Surprised, amused and frustrated by Madurai, sometimes simultaneously, Marie McEvoy says the multiculturalism symbolised by the temple, church and mosque, light up the skyline like a splendoured rainbow! By Marie McEvoy Birmingham, England

The Amirtham Family Cookbook is full of recipes, anecdotes and photographs

Lily Amirtham is popular with everyone she meets, and instantly becomes everyone’s favourite Grandma!

“You received a copy of this book as a token of my love, gratitude and affection” everything is explained. All common Indian spices are described in detail with a picture to illustrate it, as well as all culinary terms and abbreviations. The author even had the smart idea to include a conversion table with Celsius/ Fahrenheit and gram/spoons, which make her recipes accessible to people across the world. But what makes the book rather unique are the personal memories and anecdotes that the author has woven into each recipe. This book is like a front door to Lily Amirtham’s house. It’s an exploration in a grandmother’s world through experiences, touching memories, knowledge and artisanal cooking. Before some recipes, are text boxes containing snippets of personal memories linked to a particular recipe, or little known facts about the origin of some recipes. There are also explanations of traditional festivals such as Pongal.

The language is clear, simple and straightforward. Each recipe is written in the same format, the ingredients and the method clearly separated and described. The contents of the book is structured like a meal, with breakfast first, followed by lunch, and desserts in the last section. By describing every step with precision, she makes sure that even the worst cook can rustle up a decent meal by following her recipes.

in the book. Lily Amirtham’s biggest challenge is to explain to her Indian readers not only details about all these special dishes, but also how or where to find necessary ingredients. For example, it is not so common to find Parmesan in South India. She makes every effort to not lose the reader and makes suggestions for substitutes.

here are countless features of Madurai that I could delve into despite having arrived only last week. I saw a cow leisurely grazing near the runway at Madurai airport as my plane touched down. The rich jewel tones of the tailors market and the intense assortment of flavoursome food is a sensual feast. The four towers of the Meenakshi temple that, alongside the warm red glow of the church’s cross and the vehement green of the mosque, create a rainbow of multiculturalism that lights up the skyline at night. This city has not failed to surprise, amuse, and sometimes frustrate me – occasionally, all at once!

This book also contains a liberal sprinkling of global cuisines, thanks to the author’s long stay in Europe. During her visit to Hamburg, her first trip outside India, she was totally distraught without any Indian spices. Thanks to her husband, who likes to try new dishes, she became acquainted with German cuisine.

“You received a copy of this book as a token of my love, gratitude and affection,” writes Lily Amirtham at the end of the introduction. It is, indeed, an affection that we can feel in every page of her book. In the foreword her son, Arun, explains the word Virunthombal and its principle. According to him, it’s a Tamil word which means gift and hospitality—a meaningful word that is most apt for his mother.

For one thing, crossing the road is a potentially perilous activity. However, I do like to think that I am mastering it: be brash, be brazen, and be brave. Risk your legs and hope for the best! There is no guarantee that your transport will get you to your destination in one piece, either – rickshaws stuffed with passengers hurtle and weave with minimal concern past trucks, buses, and into impossibly tight spaces. Yet, to native Madurai dwellers, this is a perfectly normal occurrence. I once saw a woman casually perched on the back of a motorbike, with a sleeping baby lolling over one arm!

From the simple Italian pasta to the exotic Indonesian Nasi Goreng, recipes from across the globe can be found

“Bon Appetit! En Guete! Enjoy your meal! Nalla Saappidunga!” to quote Arun’s last sentence.

The noise here is also on another decibel level altogether. Coming from Birmingham, the second biggest city in

Perhaps the only silent horns in existence in Madurai!

the United Kingdom, I thought I knew pandemonium, but this place is a real eye - if not ear - opener! On my first night, I was so dazed and exhausted that I was oblivious to the world within minutes of lying in bed. The following nights, I was cursing myself that I had neglected to pack earplugs. Noise is a 24-hour characteristic in Madurai, whether it’s from traffic on the dusty roads or the trains blaring past my window as I sleep. Having ‘honk your horn’ emblazoned

across the back of vehicles seems superfluous to me; it is not as though any encouragement is needed. Why the constant beeping? Are they bored? Is it a mating ritual? Is silence such a frightening concept? These are not necessarily negative aspects; these are the attributes that make Madurai the manic, deafening, sometimes chokingly hot place that I have grown so fond of already. I look forward to discovering even more of its bizarre and beautiful traits during my stay.

Madurai Messenger Film July 2012

Parallel Lives, Parallel Passions Nora Ephron’s award winning Julie and Julia is a mouth watering, uplifting comedy that gives food the recognition it deserves, and acknowledges its power to change lives, writes Ellie Daniel By Ellie Daniel England

his charming film seamlessly intertwines Julie Powell’s book, The Julie/Julia Project and the autobiography of American chef, author and TV star Julia Child’s My Life in France, offering a feel-good, humorous account of the similarities and differences between the two women’s lives.

coming true’, I did not find it clichéd, due to its honest and unconventional content. It is made all the more inspirational by the fact that it is an adaptation of two true real life stories.

Failed writer Julie Powell (played by Amy Adams) finds herself frustrated by her monotonous and unfulfilling life working in a call centre and living in a dingy apartment above a pizzeria in New York in 2002. Following the advice of her husband (Chris Messina), she seeks inspiration from successful 1960s chef Julia Child (Meryl Streep). As she attempts to harness her two favourite hobbies, cooking and writing, she decides to cook the entire selection of recipes (524 in total) which comprise Julia Child’s first cookbook. Powell challenges herself to complete the unusual project in just one year, documenting her efforts in an online blog, which becomes the ‘Julie/Julia Project’.

Aside from the main plot, I really enjoyed comic value of the film. Julia’s efforts result in some humorous moments – such as her attempt to boil a live lobster, where she remarks, “Oh Julia, you made it sound so simple,” as she struggles to overcome her fear. Another of my favourite moments was when the owner of Le Cordon Bleu ironically announced to Child, “You have no real talent for cooking, but the Americans will never know the difference,” to which Child responds by merely blowing a raspberry!

Julie acquires a devoted fan base that follows her blog avidly. Eventually she becomes something of an online celebrity and gains recognition as a writer, and when she is offered the chance to convert her blog into a book, her dream becomes a reality. Simultaneously, the life of Julia Child in 1950s Paris is interwoven into the plot. The audience witness Child’s joy as she learns to cook at Parisian cookery school, Le Cordon Bleu, and how her fellow students, who were all male, discover that she was fearless. By the climax of the film, like Powell, Child’s own personal endeavor is achieved - her first cookbook Mastering the Art of French Cooking is published. It is this book that provides the motivation for Powell’s challenge. The extent to which Julie believes she has been inspired by Child is evident. Julie describes how before learning about Julia, she was, “Drowning,” but then, “She pulled me out of the ocean.” The film portrays the similarities and differences between the lives of the two women. For example, the significance of the

support given by their husbands. Paul Child (Stanley Tucci) provides constant belief in Julia, with words like, “Your book is going to change the world.” Julie and Julia also share an intense boredom at the start of the film, and are both desperate to find some meaning and focus to their lives. It is their passion for cooking and eating that will rescue them. “I love to eat!” as Child often comments. Despite the fact that the film is a tale of ‘dreams

The soundtrack is also wonderful, particularly in the way it evokes the feel of 1950s Paris. The music also serves to enhance a smooth transition between the time periods and settings, which contrast between quaint and picturesque 1950s Paris to Powell’s small, claustrophobic flat above a pizza shop in busy Queens, New York in the early years of the new millennium. Adams, Tucci and Messina all give excellent performances, but for me, Meryl Streep really stands out as spectacular. Streep was nominated for an Oscar and

also won a Golden Globe for her portrayal of Julie Child. She encapsulates the essence of her vibrant TV personality, and adopts her trademark high pitched warble perfectly. “I am very conventional,” she says as she attempts (with little success) to master the French language. She’s nothing but likeable, jovial and hilarious. The film is best enjoyed if you’re in the mood for something that will leave

you feeling cheered. Though it is light and uncomplicated, it is much more than just a conventional romantic comedy; it is a ‘culinary comedy.’ Scenes of sumptuous chocolate cakes and dishes laced with butter will make you want to buy the cookbook so you can sample some of the dishes. I recommend Julie and Julia to any food lover, although be warned - you will be left feeling very hungry!

Madurai Messenger Health & Lifestyle July 2012

Beating Diabetes Determined to report on some of the consequences of a high fat diet, Rebecca Geiselmann is startled by the statistics of diabetes in India. Representing 20 percent of the world’s diagnosed diabetics, India is facing a rapid rise if awareness of this disease doesn’t reach the masses. She meets Dr Arthur Asirvatham, well-known diabetologist in Madurai, to learn more about the disease By Rebecca Geiselmann Germany Diabetics must monitor their blood sugar levels regularly

iabetes is one of the most prevalent diseases in the world, affecting 246 million people. In India, it is estimated that over 50 million people suffer from diabetes, which equates to about 20 percent of the global count, and the number is believed to be increasing every day. Experts predict that in 20 years it will rise by 150 percent. 50

With an average of 6-8 percent economic growth per annum in the last few years in India, poverty has reduced and literacy has increased. But these positive improvements could be quickly overshadowed by diseases like diabetes. India is a nation rich in heritage, and a strong component of this is its delicious cuisine. However, more and more food in the Indian diet has high sugar and oil content. That’s not to say that all Indian food is unhealthy. On the contrary, much traditional food is low in fat and sugar. It’s probably more a reflection of a global trend towards fast food, and no doubt an increasing Western influence. Fortunately, there are many experts in India ready to help improve the situation, such as Dr. Arthur Asirvatham, 56, a diabetologist in Madurai. After completing his MBBS and MD at Madurai Medical College, he became aware of the high number of Indians with diabetes and wanted to address this pressing issue. He then completed a Diploma in Diabetology before starting as an assistant in 1989 at Government Rajaji Hospital. Ten years later, he became the chief of diabetology in the institution. Additionally, Dr. Arthur Asirvatham offers his own private hospital in Madurai, Asirvatham Hospital. His days are long and busy, starting at 8:00am and finishing at 11:30pm. Full of passion for his profession, he says he still wants to work more.

Dr. Arthur Asirvatham is passionate about helping people with diabetes in Madurai

What is Diabetes? Diabetes occurs when the pancreas is not able to produce enough insulin, a hormone needed to regulate blood sugar levels in the body. Insulin enables our bodies to use and store energy by taking glucose out of the blood and into cells. There are two different types of diabetes, referred to as Type 1 and Type 2, each with different causes. Both are life threatening, but both are treatable.

Type 1 Diabetes:

Type 2 Diabetes:

Affects children and young people between 7-15 years.

Affects adults over 25 years of age.

First signs: Excessive urination Unquenchable thirst Unstoppable hunger Weight loss Constant tiredness /fatigue Vomiting

First signs: The symptoms of Type 2 diabetes are the same as Type 1, however they are not as noticeable and often just one of the symptoms arises. Some people don’t realise that they have diabetes because they don’t show any symptoms.

These symptoms can appear very quickly. The sooner you see a doctor, the easier it will be to treat. Treatment: Patients need daily insulin injections, which they can give themselves. With a well managed diet, it is quite possible to live a long life with few complications. Without insulin injections patients risk falling into a coma and can die within three weeks after the first signs present. And if they don’t care for their nutrition, there is an increased risk of developing other diseases and conditions such as eye problems which can lead to blindness, nervous system dysfunction, circulatory disorders and poor kidney function.

Type 2 diabetes responds very well to exercise and a nutritious diet. Depending on the severity, some patients need medicine or insulin injections. However, these treatments are usually only necessary if you don’t follow the nutrition guidelines recommended by your doctor. The biggest risk for people with Type 2 diabetes is heart attacks, which can be fatal. Similar to Type 1 diabetes, there is also a risk of developing additional diseases or conditions relating to eyes, nervous system, circulation and kidney function.

Madurai Messenger Health & Lifestyle July 2012

Dr. Arthur Asirvatham is concerned about the way in which eating habits have changed in India

“A large portion of society complains about long working hours and little spare time for shopping, cooking and exercising. Consequently, their eating habits have changed, resorting to fast food and sugary drinks”

Nutrition tips A nutritious diet means passing on the white sugar, fatty foods, oil and maida based items, in favour of vegetables, proteins and wheat. Rice products should only be consumed in moderation. Furthermore, raw or boiled food is a lot healthier than fried food. Portion size and calories should also be watched.

Genes vs. nutrition & lifestyle Diabetes is caused by a particular gene which gets passed on from generation to generation. However, the onset of diabetes can be avoided by living a healthy lifestyle. Unfortunately this gene is prevalent in India, and a change of lifestyle in India in recent years has contributed to the rising number of diabetics. Dr. Arthur Asirvatham explained the life of the average Indian has become more stressful, especially for the ambitious middle-class. A large portion of society complains about long working hours and little spare time for shopping, cooking and exercising. Consequently, their eating habits have changed, resorting to fast food and sugary drinks. Increased wealth and busy lives has also contributed to an increase in cars and motorcycles. It means less people now walk or use bikes to get around. In general, you can find more people with diabetes in urban areas than in rural, because people in rural areas still stick to healthy traditional food and lead a comparatively less sedentary life than their urban counterparts. Dr. Arthur Asirvatham says that Indians are not sufficiently aware about diabetes and its consequences. He holds one-toone discussions with patients to inform and educate them and hopefully help them change their lifestyle and diet.

The Goodness of Fruits Kourei Yoshibe, a Japanese national living in Tokyo, gives us a worm’s eye view of the fruit scenario in Madurai. He even confesses to having become a regular fruit eater only after coming to Madurai. The spin off is seen in his reduced susceptibility to the common cold that bothered him in Tokyo because of his zero-fruit diet!

herever I go in Madurai, I can see several shops selling many varieties of fruit. I often see Indians eating bananas. I wonder if it is lunchtime. I am curious because in Japan, I seldom see Japanese eating fruit for lunch. I think that eating fruit has permeated their lifestyle. Here is an overview of commonly available fruits in Madurai and my experience tasting them.

By Kourei Yoshibe Japan

A healthy diet combined with daily exercise such as biking, walking or jogging will give people with diabetes the best chance of leading a long life.

Orange

DO EAT:

Taste: The taste is sweet and sourer than any other fruit, except lemons.

Lots of vegetables such as spinach, cucumber, tomato, onions, and radish Buttermilk Non oily bread e.g. dry Chapati and Roti Low fat meat, e.g. fish and chicken Egg whites, not yolks Coffee and tea without sugar

AVOID: Oily breads like parotta and poori Oily gravies White sugar in tea, coffee and juices Fast food dishes Fatty meat Alcohol Smoking Products made out of rice like dosa and idly can be consumed in moderation.

Regular check ups

Health Benefits: Oranges are a perfect antidote for heat, fatigue or the common cold by making your immune system stronger. It also helps prevents high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction and stroke. Varieties: Mandarin, Sweet orange, Acid Lime, Nagpur, Australian orange, and Kodai orange. Cost: Rs. 70 -90 per kilogram. Origin: Nagpur (Maharashtra) and Australia.

Mango Taste: The taste is sweeter than any other fruit - a little bitter, softer than any other fruit and very juicy.

Unfortunately, many people don’t get to the doctor until the last minute, often when it is already too late and secondary complications have begun. For every known diabetes patient, there is another person who doesn’t know they have the disease.

Health Benefits: It makes your skin look beautiful and is effective as a laxative, prevents cancer, high blood pressure, myocardial infarction, arteriosclerosis, and stroke.

Dr. Arthur Asirvatham advises patients to get their blood checked every six months by a doctor. Early diagnosis is the key. If you show any of the symptoms you should consult your doctor immediately. Sources: www.myDiabetes.in

Cost: Rs. 25-80 per kilogram.

Varieties: Alfonsa, Sapattai, Kasa, Balamani, Kalapaani, Kadhar.

Origin: Salem, Natham, and Rajapalayam.

Madurai Messenger Health & Lifestyle July 2012

Banana Taste: The more it ripens, the sweeter it tastes, but it has no juice. Health Benefits: It is effective as a laxative, and as it is rich in sugar content, it gives you instant energy. After playing sports, it helps you to recover from fatigue. It also prevents high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction and stroke. Varieties: Rasthali, Natupazham, Malaipazham, Karpuravalli, Povanpazhlam, Patcha valaipazhlam. Cost: Rs.1.50 to Rs.10 per fruit. Origin: Kodaikanal.

Apples Taste: It is sweet, a little sour and juicy. Health Benefits: Apple is highly recommended by doctors for its ability to prevent various illnesses including high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction and stroke, allergic reactions, and its role as a digestion booster. Varieties: Green apple, Ice apple, Red apple, Royal apple, Royal Kala, and Washington apple. Cost: Rs.140 to Rs.160 per kilogram. Origin: Washington and Kashmir.

Grape

Guava

Taste: It is juicier than any other fruit. When chewing it, the juice spreads on your tongue!

Taste: It is a little sweet and when you chew it feels like apple.

Health Benefits: Grape makes you feel refreshed if you are suffering from heat fatigue. And it helps in curing eye problems. Furthermore, it prevents high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction and stroke.

Health Benefits: Juice of raw guavas or decoction of guava leaves is very helpful in relieving cough and cold by loosening cough, reducing mucus, disinfecting the respiratory tract, throat and lungs and inhibiting microbial activity due to its astringent properties. It is a very good antioxidant and helps in maintaining the skin and gives a young and healthy appearance.

Varieties: Panneer, Thilkus, Sona (seedless), Muscat Thatchai (black).

Varieties: –Madina.

Cost: Rs. 30 to 50 per kilogram.

Cost: Rs.5 to Rs.10 per fruit.

Origin: Bijapur - Maharashtra, USA, Theni – Tamil Nadu.

Origin: Dindigul, Oddanchatram and Natham.

Kiwi Watermelon Taste: I feel funny when I eat watermelon. When chewing the juicy fruit, it sounds ‘saku saku’ in your mouth and I am sure you too will feel as if you are drinking water! Health Benefits: It has a diuretic effect and prevents high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction and stroke. Varieties: Bangalore watermelon. Cost: Rs. 25 to 40 per fruit. Origin: Tindivanam, Tamil Nadu, and Bangalore.

Taste: It is fresh, sour and sweet. Health Benefits: It prevents high blood pressure, cancer, arteriosclerosis, myocardial infarction, stroke, common cold and makes your skin beautiful . It also has a diuretic effect. Varieties: Ruan Zao. Cost: Rs.35 to 40 per fruit. Origin: New Zealand. Fruits can help keep us healthy, especially in our busy modern lives where consuming junk food is all too easy and convenient. In Tokyo, where I live, my diet never included fruits and as a result, I was highly susceptible to the common cold. But after coming to Madurai, my frequent intake of fruits has indeed made my immune system stronger. I now love eating fruits and can feel the health benefits.

Madurai Messenger Trends July 2012

Master Chefs Madurai is famous for its delicious South Indian food and features many excellent restaurants. Rebecca Geiselmann visits 10 restaurants to meet the talented chefs to find out about their experience and passion for cooking Words by Rebecca Geiselmann, Germany Photographs by Kourei Yoshibe, Japan

Chef No. 1

Name: Pitchai Kannu Age: 47 Restaurant: Kumar Mess, Madurai (non-vegetarian) Working here for: 10 years

When did you become a chef? - I was 20 years old. How and why did you become a chef? - First, I started working as a famer. But it wasn’t very profitable. I was inspired by my brother, who is a cook. I got a job in another restaurant of the owner of Kumar Mess. Sometime later I moved to this restaurant. What do you love the most about your job? - I love my job. The cooking always gives me joy. What is your favorite dish and why? - I prefer particularly spicy traditional food, for example Chettinad. For me, it is important that no artificial flavours are added. Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - I am proud, when I can cook for political leaders or famous film actors. What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? - I always love to cook for the owner’s family for different functions. What are your dreams for the future? - I would like to cook for a 5-star hotel.

Chef No. 2

Name: T.C. Ganesh Age: 42 Restaurant: Supreme Hotel, Madurai Working here for: 15 years

When did you become a chef? - When I began working here at the Supreme Hotel. How and why did you become a chef? - I thought about becoming a chef from a young age and started cooking when I was 10. I worked at the Pandiyan Hotel in Madurai for four years before this job. What do you love the most about your job? - I like to be a host. I like to make people happy by serving them. What is your favorite dish and why? - Paneer Butter Masala. It’s just tasty. I even like Paneer by itself. Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - I have one regular customer, a doctor, who doesn’t live far from my home and every time when he eats my food he praises me a lot for my cooking. What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? - One day, I was walking along the street and accidentally overheard a conversation of customers talking about my excellent Paneer Butter Masala. What are your dreams for the future? - I still want to improve and become a big chef. I want to try to learn more from smaller hotels because there you can often find different and more difficult dishes.

Chef No. 3

Name: Balan Age: 50 Restaurant: Murugan Idli Shop, Madurai Working here for: 9 years

When did you become a chef? - I became a master at 48 years of age. Before, I was an assistant. But I am already in the hotel industry for 30 years.

How and why did you become a chef?

- I became a chef step by step. I started as a cleaner, because my parents had financial problems, so I was forced to earn some cash. Then I became an assistant, then a manager and now I am a master. In doing so, I changed my work-place very often. Now I am here and I don’t want to change again, because I am absolutely happy with my job now.

What do you love the most about your job?

- Working in a restaurant is difficult at times but I have to work to support my family.

What is your favorite dish and why?

- Onion Uppathum - especially with small onions. They are particularly tasty.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - I never see the customers. Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about them.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? - I will never forget the time I worked at the Modern Restaurant in Madurai. That is the place where I was trained and learned the most.

What are your dreams for the future?

- I have no plans for the future. I am fine and happy with my situation.

Chef No. 4

Name: Karthik Age: 29 Restaurant: Annapurna, Madurai (non-vegetarian) Working here for: 2 months

When did you become a chef? - When I was 17 years old.

How and why did you become a chef? - It was absolutely not planned. It was more of a coincidence. I used to be a fitter at a cotton mill. Now I really like my job. I don’t plan to change jobs. All the customers are big fans of my food. For that reason, this job is now permanent for me.

What do you love the most about your job?

- Of course I love cooking in general, but I love to cook Chinese food the most.

What is your favorite dish? - Mint chicken.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - It was the famous actor Karthik. He visited my restaurant during a movie shoot in Madurai.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far?

- There’s not just a moment, there’s a big part in my life… Being in Madurai! I am from Arundangi.

What are your dreams for the future?

- I want to try to find my own restaurant. I definitely want to stay in Madurai. I already tried different cities, like Chennai. But for me, Madurai is the best! I have no trouble taking on challenges. For example, I would like to cook for 1000 people.

Madurai Messenger Trends July 2012

Chef No. 5

Name: Sathyaraj Age: 38 Restaurant: Aryas Tiruneveli Kind (vegetarian) Working here for: 22 years

Chef No. 7

When did you become a chef?

- When I was 17 years old.

- When I was 13 years old, I became an assistant chef. At the age of 20, I became a full chef, which means I now make meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

How and why did you become a chef? - For me, cooking very interesting. I think as a cook you can satisfy people. It’s also very creative and innovative. My dad supported me in becoming a chef. After my catering course, I trained as a chef before starting at Aryas.

How and why did you become a chef?

- I always wanted to become a chef because if you cook for people, you make them happy. I am not here for the money, I am here for the happiness that people get after eating. I started working in the Rajarajan Hotel at the age of seven. Then I came to this restaurant and got trained by the owner.

What do you love the most about your job? - I love to satisfy the people with my meals.

What is your favorite dish and why?

What do you love the most about your job?

- Potato fry. My mum used to make it at home. I also like fish curry. It was my favorite dish when I was a child.

- To be surrounded by people. A lot of tourists visit to my restaurant, often they take pictures with me and sometimes they even send them to me. I really like that.

Who was the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - I once cooked for the famous actor Kamal Hassan. I offered him cheese with pineapple sticks. It’s a dish that the actor usually eats in Chennai. He told me that it was great, but to make it even better, he gave me the tip to make it with two layers of pineapple, instead of just one.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far?

Name: R. Balakrishnan Age: 36 Restaurant: Impala, Madurai (pure vegetarian) Working here for: 25 years

What is your favorite dish and why? - Veg fried rice - because it even looks good. It’s so colourful.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - There’s a family of a pleasant girl from a village quite far away that travel to Madurai often, just to eat my meals.

- Five years ago, a regular customer, Srinivasan, ordered Kashmiri Pulao. In doing so, he mistook it for another dish. When he got the meal, he shouted at me. I realised he must have mistook it for another dish, so I explained it to him. After realizing that he was wrong, he apologised in a very cute way.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far?

- I want to stay in the same field, but get even better and improve my culinary art.

What are your dreams for the future?

- 10 years ago there was a group of young students from Switzerland. They were travelling through Tamil Nadu for one month but they didn’t travel in the way other people do. After every place they visited, they came back to Madurai to my restaurant to eat. They gave me a small handmade gift. I will never forget that. - I want to own another branch of this restaurant and try to make it more famous. An idea maybe is to build another restaurant near by a highway so that people can also eat my food on their way somewhere.

Chef No. 6

Name: Balraj Age: 51 Restaurant: Sri Ramalakshmi idli shop, Madurai Working here for: 30 years

Since when have you been a chef? - For 30 years. This is my own shop and it was my first one.

How and why did you become a chef?

- Our shop is a family business. All of us take care of it. At first it was owned by my parents and then I adopted it.

What do you love the most about your job?

- I love that this is my own place and that I know how to do my job very well.

What is your favorite dish and why? - Parotta, because it is such a simple food.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - Once there was a nursery college nearby. For three years, 50 students visited my restaurant three times a day -for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Every single time, I was happy when they came.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far?

- When customers order huge numbers of Parotta, sometimes up to 500-750 pieces for a function, a birthday or a marriage. These moments are always very important for me.

What are your dreams for the future?

- My wish is definitely to stay at this shop and to improve it so that I can give my three children a great education.

Chef No. 8

Name: S. Chandran Age: 62 Restaurant: New Shri Rammess (Ancient pure vegetarian) Working here for: 50 years (since the foundation of “Old” Shri Rammess. New Shri Rammess was founded in 1990)

When did you become a chef? - I was 27 years old. Before, I just served people.

What do you love the most about your job? - Being a manager, being a cook and serving people. I love the combination.

What is your favorite dish and why?

- You know, as a cook you have to taste meals the whole day. Therefore, I am always kind of full after work and all I need is something light and simple like pickle, rice and buttermilk.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for?

- Every customer is special and every single one of them is important to me.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? - Once I was standing at the bus station after work, when suddenly a car with a group of sympathetic people stopped and asked me what I am doing here and why I am not in the restaurant. They wanted to go there now and to eat some of my dishes. This moment showed me that my customers know me very well and can recognise me wherever I am and miss me when I am not at the restaurant. This fact always makes me very happy.

What are your dreams for the future?

- I want to create more customer satisfaction and to become a better cook every day. I want to improve every day and I want to be involved every day.

Madurai Messenger Trends July 2012

Chef No. 9

Name: Vallinayagam Age: 50 Restaurant: Modern Restaurant, Madurai Working here for: 12 years

When did you become a chef? - I was 36 years old.

How and why did you become a chef? - First of all, because of the safety in this field. To be honest, when I chose the job, I wasn’t interested at all, but because of my low qualifications I had no other choice. To be a cook means to have a permanent job. I always feel safe in my job. I was working in Tirunelveli at “Vasantha Bhavan” as an assistant for three years. After that I moved to the hotel “Shanti Mess” in Kovilpatti and was working there as a chef for 2 years.

What do you love the most about your job? - I like the feeling of receiving praise from customers.

What is your favorite dish and why?

- In general, I like all South Indian food, but my absolute favorite are the “Meals” - which means rice and gravy, because this is the section in which I work at Modern Restaurant.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for?

- It was Dhamu, a television-cook. In my opinion, he is a brilliant cook and it was a glory for me when he ate my food and complimented me.

An Indian Narrative Even during her first few days in Madurai, Rebecca Geiselmann discovers that every Indian pulsates with a heritage of rich personal history. She confesses that she could even spend a whole day just standing in the street watching people, because each person is woven with the warp and weft of personal stories By Rebecca Geiselmann Germany

lued to the window of the jeep, very curious about this new country, I’m already trying to absorb as much as possible on the way from the airport to that part of Madurai where I’m going to live for the next two months.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? 60

- Every time I get comments from my customers is a great moment for me.

What are your dreams for the future?

- My first wish is that my sons are able to study. I didn’t have the opportunity, so I want my children to get a better education than me. Cooking is definitely hard work. But still I want to stay in this job and continue.

Chef No. 10

Name: S.K. Nazir Ahmed Age: 39 Restaurant: Park Plaza Hotel, Madurai Working here for: 10 years

When did you become a chef? - I was 25 years old.

How and why did you become a chef? - Many friends of mine recommended the hotel industry to me. My older brother is also a chef. He’s working in Africa in the moment. I have no proper education, but a lot of interest. I started in 1991 at the Quality Inn in Chennai. From 1993-1994, I worked in Tirupur at the Velan Hotel and after that I cooked for the Gateway Hotel in Madurai, before working at an Indian restaurant in Malaysia for four years.

What do you love the most about your job?

- You know, I love eating excellent food, but I don’t just want to eat it, I want to do it on my own! I especially like to cook North Indian dishes, for example Kebab.

What is your favorite dish?

- Chicken and fish cooked in North Indian style.

Who is the most fascinating person you have cooked for? - Mr.Vishweshwaran, the founder of Adhyapana School.

What is the most memorable moment of your career so far? - This moment was in Malaysia when another cook and I were cooking mutton and suddenly the cooker burst.

What are your dreams for the future?

- If it’s possible, I would like to find my own multi-cuisine restaurant in my hometown in Kharaypur, near Kolkata.

The first thing I recognize, even before the heat or the dust, are the hundreds of people. Regardless of where I am looking, at each corner, I am fascinated by the dark skinned, black haired Indian people in their multi-coloured clothing and noticeable jewellery. Obviously they are the core of the exciting, lively street-life that India is known for. Many are driving rickshaws or motorbikes, others are working hard and some are just laughing together. I quickly realise that the number of people living in India involves a very strong noise level. If it’s not the honking of the rickshaw or bus driver, it’s the train which passes my house in the night, or the ringing of 10 mobile phones at the same time. Sometimes it’s just the sound of the television or the drone of the generator during one of the innumerable power cuts. Once I was hustled into Indian life, I rapidly sensed that Indians are cordial, open-minded, humorous and particularly communicative. In spite of the massive population, Indians do not seem at all stressed. My first impression is that life in India is more than relaxed and enjoyable. Unlike the

Rebecca Geiselmann could spend a whole day standing in the street watching people in Madurai

West, people in India always have time for a conversation with you. Thus, it’s important to never forget to include at least and extra half an hour more for everything you’re planning to do, because you will most likely be involved in a conversation!

have a completely different lifestyle and mentality, it is not at all difficult to have a genial conversation with them. And I really like the way they shake their heads throughout your entire interaction with them! I’m sure I will take that habit home with me!

When I’m walking along the traffic congested streets, passing colourful houses, fruit-booths, and inhaling the exotic smells, I will always see somebody interesting. Whether it is one of the kind rickshaw drivers, a lovely school child wearing an elegant school uniform or just the pleasant food seller with his tasty traditional drinks, someone will enjoy chatting to you or ask you to take their picture. Although these people

But the finest aspect for me is the diversity of the people here. I could spend my whole day just standing in the street watching all the interesting people because everyone is different and has their own story to tell. It’s enjoyable to sense the astonishing feeling of safety which Indians convey. I’m very much looking forward to my time in India and I’m excited about the other wonderful people I will meet.

Madurai Messenger First Impressions July 2012

A City of Character

Positive Vibes

It took Swiss national Anne Zwahlen a while to get used to the cacophony of the Madurai traffic. Nevertheless, she is fascinated by the sense of tradition that anchors the city, which she says, makes it a city with a character

Its litany of woes notwithstanding, Japanese national Ryo Ohtsuki feels overwhelmed by the warmth and friendliness of Madurai - a people-friendly city of powerful positive vibrations

By Anne Zwahlen

By Ryo Ohtsuki

Switzerland

Japan

he moment I landed in Madurai, I was able to make out the difference between my home country and India. Despite the vast differences, I felt the confidence and the warmth that the city offered. As we all know, whenever we go to a new place we are overcome with cultural shock. The first instance is the style of driving. I have been especially impressed by it because the first thing that I did after getting here was go on a car ride.

Madurai’s city centre buzzing with activity

ravelling to India had always been one of my dreams. There was something beautiful about this country that fascinated me. I had heard about the colours, the food, religions and philosophy, which are different from my country. I had also heard a lot of opinions, good and bad. Everybody seems to have something specific to say about India. I, however, wanted to discover this culture by myself. When I arrived at the airport with another volunteer, the taxi picked us up and I suddenly forgot the exhausting journey and couldn’t stop staring out of the window all the way. And what I saw really surprised me: the streets were crowded even though it was quite late at night. Men, women, children and

even goats were on the roads, people were hanging out in cafes or chatting in front of shops creating a warm and lively atmosphere.

women wearing beautiful saris sitting on motorbikes, cows on the edge of the road, and the bright, colourful houses, are priceless.

This particular atmosphere is one of the things that surprised me the most. I discovered the original way in which Indians have to drive—half-amused and half-scared. Madurai’s roads are a cacophony of drivers honking so much that it looks like they just want to say ‘hello’ to each other.

I must confess, however, that at first I hadn’t expected Madurai to be so traditional. Yet this sense of tradition imparts a touch of character to Madurai’s beauty and shows how much this city is rooted in culture and history.

Although it is sometimes a little tiring to be always surrounded by hundreds of people when you are not used to it – especially when you come from a quiet country like Switzerland—it feels good to see a city that is alive. Sights such as

As I arrived just a few days ago, I have still much to discover and learn about Madurai and India. Yet, even if I have been here less than a week, I already feel like I’ve been here for a long time. I have already met my host family parents, and started yoga lessons… everything seems so natural and warm.

Although it is said in Japan that Indian people are polite and kind, I noticed that almost all people who drive (cars or bikes) can’t stop honking. I was shocked because people in Japan usually only use their horns when they try to race ahead of the other cars which can sometimes have aggressive implications. That kind of behavior in India, however, seems to have a different meaning. Although at this point in time, I have no exact idea why people in India honk so much, I am prepared to go with the flow and enjoy seeing them drive with ease and comfort. The other thing that impressed me about Madurai was the strength the people exhibited and their compassion for their fellow human beings. A few things that are in total contrast to Japan are the transport systems, especially the public buses that are filled with excited passengers, public sanitation and most striking of all, the frequent power cuts. In spite of all these differences, I can say that the people of Japan and also from other countries must respect the people here for their kind and caring nature.

The grand entrance to the Thirumalai Nayak palace in Madurai

From the moment I landed in Madurai, I have noticed several differences from Japan such as religion, food, weather, traffic, and sanitation to name a few. But I am happy to say that Madurai is a land of positive vibrations because the people are always smiling, ready to help

and are great hosts. I have been strongly impacted by these aspects and they have changed my way of thinking with regard to many things. So, I will surely come back to Madurai to meet these lovely people again. Thank you Madurai, for making me feel at home.

Madurai Messenger Film July 2012

A Jolly Good Film! Porvi Fomra reviews the Tamil comedy flick Kalakalappu and finds that the peppy movie, a blend of comedy and thrills, lives up to its name with its hot chases and improbable plot! By Porvi Fomra Madurai, India

alakalappu is a comedy flick that mixes action and romance in the story of two brothers trying to revive their ancestral tradition of Masala Café in Kumbakonam. Comedy is director Sundar C’s forte, so naturally, he has come up with a convincing script.

Seenu (Vimal) takes up the challenge of getting the place going with the help of an old-time chef and his granddaughter Maya (Oviya). But to complicate matters, Madhavi (Anjali), a health inspector, is transferred to Kumbakonam and is bent upon getting the restaurant sealed for its unhygienic standards. To add to the confusion, Seenu’s brother Raghu (Shiva), a notorious gambler and smart talker, comes to support the restaurant. Romance blossoms as the obvious chemistry between Madhavi and Seenu grows. They end up together after a few initial hiccups, and it is the same with Raghu and Maya. A comedy of errors begins when a comic-villain loses some diamonds worth Rs. 10 crore. Somehow, many of the main characters get mixed up in a trail that goes from everywhere to nowhere, providing laugh after laugh. Adding to the comic chaos is Vettupuli (Santhanam), the man who’s been promised Madhavi. At some point in the movie, even a dog has its ‘say’ in the fray.

The funniest sequence is a chase involving three vans through the alleys of the village. Madhavi is kidnapped by Vettupuli’s rival (a characteristically comic cameo), who wants him to marry his daughter. Meanwhile, Seenu holds Madhavi’s grandpa hostage and plans to elope with Madhavi. These three characters misinterpret each other’s intensions and start chasing each other. Although utterly illogical, it is executed wonderfully and you are left laughing throughout the sequence.

Anjali and Oviya are typical of Sundar’s heroines—glamorous and gorgeous. Anjali gives the movie a good lift with her natural and convincing performance. The movie is a little slow paced in the beginning but takes a swift turn in the second half. I would give the movie a score of 3 out of 5, an extra point for Santanam’s timing. But on the whole, Kalakalappu remains true to its title and is jolly good fun to watch!