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June 2011

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Volume 2, Issue 19 Sponsored by:

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Weaving: A WAY OF LIFE

Contents June 2011 | Issue No. 19 Editor

Dr. Nandini Murali Media Relations Officer

Ezhil Elango

EDITOR’S CORNER

03 Kindling a New Interest COVER STORY

Journalism Supervisor

B. Pooja Coordinator

Joel Powel Abraham

04 Indian Inspiration: A Tapestry of Textiles PEOPLE

13 Diva of Design FASHION

16 Madurai: Fashion’s Sleeping Beauty Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd., Assistant Editor

Ingelise Jones Reporters and Designers:

Elisa Cohen 2

Ingelise Jones Katharina Schneider Kristina Wilshusen Laila Alonso-Huarte Malin Pohlmann Monique Djarn Sandy Benkimoun Sibonile Mathe Umberto Bacchi Zinzi Boonstra Contact:

editor@maduraimessenger.org MADURAI MESSENGER No. 17, T.P.K Road Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269

LIFESTYLE

19 The Fitness Mantra ISSUES

22 Saving the Girls of Usilampatti 24 Valli Annamalai: Pioneer of Women and Children’s Rights 25 Out of Sight, Out of Mind CULTURE

28 The Test of Fire ORDINARY PEOPLE, EXTRAORDINARY LIVES

31 Service with a Smile PUBLIC HEALTH

32 Stray Dogs: Boon or Bane?

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

34 A Stranger Among Strangers 35 Madurai: A Pearl in an Oyster ENVIRONMENT

36 Seeds of an Organic Revolution 44 Emus: Birds of a Different Feather VILLAGE VOICES

41 Chinnalapatti: Weaving a Dream BOOK REVIEW

46 The Search for Self WEEKEND WANDER

Cover Picture:

Umberto Bacchi

48 Amazing Amsterdam FILM REVIEW

50 A Film for All Seasons

EDITOR’S CORNER

Kindling A New Interest

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confess: Technology intimidates me. When I buy electronic equipment, the accompanying manual perplexes me. To understand the ‘dos and don’ts’ of using equipment, I’d have someone explain it to me rather than having to push through a field of technical landmines! Often I feel like Alice in Technical Wonderland hurling through the rabbit hole! Perhaps it’s a gender issue. I once read somewhere that most women are put off by manuals, just as they are unable to read maps! Of course I suspect all manuals are written by men!

Naturally, I was mystified when the tentacles of technology reached out to a hitherto unreachable area: the world of books through its ‘e’ avatar gave us an ‘e’ reader, the Amazon Kindle! As someone who cut her teeth on books, the sensory appeal of books is among my earliest memories. I love to hold a book between my hands, run my hand over its spine, smell the fine print, and inhale the scent of the trees that linger like a lasting fragrance… sometimes as the pages turn musty and well thumbed, I experience the wisdom of the Universe enshrined in the pages.

Hence I was skeptical of e books. It was a frontal attack on my aesthetic sensibilities.

A cousin, who first told me about Amazon Kindle, was shocked to know that I hadn’t heard of it until then! He probably thought I was a thow back to the Stone Age! Reluctantly, I looked up the Kindle on the Internet. I admit I was impressed.

Yet I was unwilling to cross over.

All it took for me to make the leap of faith was when I saw a Kindle with Mircea Samoila, Country Director, Projects Abroad, Romania. A keen reader, he showed me the multiple advantages of an e reader such as the ability to store 3500 books, the e-ink that makes for a reader-viewer friendly reading experience, and the cost effectiveness.

I recently got my Kindle—a gift from my husband. The very next day I sat up almost until midnight downloading several of my favorite classics, thanks to Project Gutenberg, the first and largest single collection of free electronic books, or e-Books. Michael Hart, founder of Project Gutenberg, invented eBooks in 1971 and continues to inspire the creation of eBooks and related technologies. Some of the titles I downloaded include evergreen favorites such as Alice in Wonderland, The Wizard of Oz, Grimm’s Fairy Tales, and Aesop’s Fables. I was overjoyed to discover that the spontaneous free child in me was alive and reveling in my ability to reconnect with my childhood. Alongside I also downloaded spiritual classics such as the Bhagavad Gita, Siddhartha, and Walden.

The first book I read on the Kindle was The Emperor’s New Clothes by Hans Christian Anderson. Rereading it as an adult, I was amazed at the new perspectives I now gleaned, and to think we are so dismissive of the story as “airy fairy”! I have embraced my new literary e companion with all its technical wizardry, and in return, it has cast a captivating spell on me. Life, I am discovering, is all about increasing your bandwidth to accommodate a diversity of experiences. And yes, the Kindle feels just as sensuous as a book!

Dr. nandini murali Editor

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Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2011

Indian Inspiration: A Tapestry of Textiles India is synonymous with vibrant colours and rich textiles. Indian style is unique and arguably among the most beautiful and recognisable in the world. Saris are the icon of Indian clothing, and fashion designers from all corners of the globe look to India as a source of inspiration. Ingelise Jones takes a look behind the scenes of the textile manufacturing industry in Tamil Nadu and meets some of the special people who make it happen.

By Ingelise Jones 4

Melbourne, Australia A hand loom weaver making a silk sari in Veeravanallur

Dyed cotton saris are hung out to dry in the sun in Chinnalapatti

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ndia has a long and rich heritage in textile production. As the world’s second largest producer of both cotton and silk, textiles are a vital part of the country’s domestic and export wealth, and a major source of employment. Today, the textile industry employs 35 million people including five million cotton farmers. About 60 million people rely on income from the textile industry, and textiles represent 14 percent of India’s industrial production.

But as globalisation grips the nation and Western influences rapidly increase, the industry must adapt in response to fluctuating domestic and international textile markets and to the needs of the evolving Indian consumer.

There are two ends of the textile manufacturing spectrum, factory power looming and hand looming. Tamil Nadu is well known for the production of both silk and cotton fabrics, and especially famous for its saris. To understand power looming, hand looming and how saris are made, we visited four different locations in Tamil Nadu. These included a cotton spinning mill, a cotton dyeing factory specialising in tie dyed saris, a cotton sari hand

loom weaver, and a village full of silk sari hand loom weavers. Learning about some of the different aspects of the industry was fascinating, but perhaps even more so, was meeting some of the people who make it possible.

Our cover photo features Mariammal, 60, a hand loom weaver from the small village of Andipatti. While her simple and humble existence was in some ways confronting, spending time with her opened my eyes to a traditional art that is also a way of life. Like thousands of local people around the Madurai area who work in the textile industry, Mariammal exudes a sense of pride in her work and radiates happiness from within.

The Loom Boom In recent years, the Indian textile industry has seen a significant boom, growing at 8-9 percent per year, following a steady increase of 3-4 percent per year for the past 60 years.

The strength, versatility and absorbency of cotton make it one of the most popular and practical fabrics available, and silk with its variety of thicknesses,

“Spending time with her opened my eyes to a traditional art that is also a way of life”

softness, lustre and sheen is considered the most luxurious fabric in the world.

Both cotton and silk rapidly absorb colour, bringing designs to life and enhancing wardrobes everywhere.

India is also known for its hand dyeing, block printing, intricate embroidery and embellishments. Fine textile craftsmanship has been passed down through the generations for hundreds of years, but it is now under threat. As young people have more opportunities for education and careers, they are less inclined to follow in their parents footsteps. It’s also due to the changing Indian consumer, and of course to the industrialisation of the textile market, with an increasing demand for mass produced clothing.

Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2011

Indian Chic Goes Global

Indian fashion designers are making their mark in the West, and Western designers are taking their inspiration from this exotic land. Indian chic is going global. The success of Bollywood films has no doubt been a major influence in catapulting India into the imaginations of people all over the world, but the passionate exchange between India and the West is two way. Western films and Western media continue to creep into the consciousness and wardrobes of the Indian public.

Once a luxury only for the wealthy Indian, or seen in Bollywood films, fashion is now on the radar of an increasing number of Indian consumers eager to engage in a little luxury.

Opportunities for study and careers are greater and more plentiful than they have ever been. New technology and wealth in an old country has created a new wave of people with more disposable income.

Retail shelves stocked with traditional Indian clothes

“The Indian consumer is no doubt changing.

Many aren’t just interested in functional products anymore. They want to wear brands as statements and try on luxury for size”

At the recent Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW), held 6-12 April 2011, internationally renowned Delhibased fashion designer Neeru Kumar spoke out about the need for Indian fashion designers to be inspired by their own country’s textiles. She paid tribute to Indian textiles on the runway with her blend of traditional Indian and contemporary Western styles made strictly from Indian hand woven textiles.

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Retail Traditional Indian clothes

Retail as a phenomenon in India is not dissimilar to the West. You only have to walk into India’s two big department stores RmKV and Pothy’s to get the sense of scale and popularity of Indian clothes. Shoppers certainly look like they are seduced by the lure of new clothes, especially saris. But the Indian consumer is no doubt changing. Many aren’t just interested in functional products anymore. They want to wear brands as statements and try on luxury for size.

To the outsider, the Indian clothing industry feels like a powerhouse of tradition. Almost every woman in India wears the sari, whether it is for everyday attire or for special occasions. Saris vary greatly in quality and price, with everything from simple cotton saris to the showcase of fine craftsmanship of delicately hand woven silk. Extravagant bridal saris in particular, are the centre piece of every Indian wedding and keep the art of silk hand looming alive.

Indian fashion for women also includes items such as the salwar kameez, kurti and lehenga. For men, it is clothing such as the kurta, sherwani and pathan suits. But depending on where you go in India, you also see more and more Indians dressed in Western clothes. It’s an interesting mix to observe, as so much varies with regard to the type of

clothing and to which parts of the body are acceptable to be exposed or tightly hugged. Between Indian and Western, there is an entirely different notion of shape and form, flattery and function.

Cotton Tales With archeological evidence from Northern India dating cotton use back around 5,000 years ago, cotton is the oldest fabric known to humankind. It has been an essential fabric to people of many cultures across the world, from the ancient Egyptians to the Romans to most people living today. Cotton textile production is a part of India’s heart and soul, but it is an industry that has seen highs and lows.

Under British rule, India’s cotton production experienced a slump, allowed only to export raw cotton to Britain, where it was processed, and then sold back to India as a textile.

But the British did help transform the cotton industry with the industrial revolution of the late 18th century and early 19th century. New looms and spinning processes enabled the mass manufacturing of clothing and started the modern clothing revolution, helping to catapult fashion and retail into the phenomenon it is today.

Fulfilling the world’s demand for cotton is an ongoing challenge. India makes up 25 percent of the world’s cotton, and production is expected to reach an all time high of 35 million bales in 201112. The rapid growth is partly due to the adoption of genetically modified cotton.

It has been a controversial move due to concern over health risks, toxic effects on soil and harm to the environment.

Farmers have rapidly adopted the new strains of cotton because it has initially increased yields and reduced pesticide use. However, it remains a hot debate rife with issues which are unlikely to be resolved any time soon.

spinning mills are located in Tamil Nadu.

Cotton fabric made using power looms keeps much of the domestic textile and fashion market alive.

The relationship between the domestic and international market is also complex. In recent years, India’s domestic cotton prices have begun to mirror world prices. In 2010, the Indian Government responded to excessive export of cotton yarn by imposing an export ban. The ban reduced domestic prices and enabled surplus stock to be consumed internally. It was a relief for spinning mill owners who couldn’t cope with rising domestic prices which they were unable to pass on to the market for fear of affecting sales margins. But the benefits were only temporary as stocks soon overtook domestic demand.

“We started with just six machines and 14 employees and produced 20,000 metres of fabric per month, now, we employ 143 people and operate 48 machines. We now make 450,000 metres per month,” Mr. Bharath said.

The ban was lifted this year, but limitations on export remain to help discourage cotton exportation. At the time of writing this, domestic prices were declining and there was a strong push from the sector and experts to allow more exportation. About 2,000 textile mills across Tamil Nadu participated in a one day national strike on 23 May 2011 in protest to the government curbing exports and withdrawing incentives which would lead to mass losses for the mills.

India’s role in the future of world cotton production will continue to be instrumental, but the memory of this ban and its associated ongoing issues could linger to affect India’s reputation as a reliable source of cotton.

Wheels Keep on Spinning

Textile mills are the backbone of Tamil Nadu’s industrial development. Almost half of India’s medium and large sized spinning mills and the majority of small

Jheeva Rekhaa Textiles, a cotton spinning mill in the Theni District in Tamil Nadu, is enjoying the rapid growth of the domestic textile market. On meeting factory owner Mr Bharath, it is clear that business is good. He employs local men and women who live within 30km of the factory. He is particularly proud to tell us that his factory has substantially increased its capacity since it was established in 1997.

On a tour of the factory, one can see the impact that the development of technology has had on the industry. The cotton spinning process involves a series of steps. Firstly, raw cotton that has been put through the ginning process before arriving at the mill undergoes ‘drawing’ to straighten and combine the fibres. Yarn is then made by ‘spinning’ the fibre together, before thinning and twisting the fibres to create different quality or thread counts. The yarn is then fed through a pirn winding machine. Pirns are tapered bobbins or spools. Finally, the yarn is weaved into fabric using a power loom.

Pirm winding machines

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Worker checks quality of cotton

The factory certainly seems busy and workers are only too pleased to demonstrate their jobs to us. But as we move from the older part of the factory to see the ‘newer’ power looms, I notice that less people are required to operate the machines. Mr Bharath is noticeably excited by the new power looms because better technology equates to better efficiency. But I can’t help but feel the flip side of this advancement: surely better technology threatens much needed jobs! Like any industry developing at the hands of technology, it’s a bit of a mute point.

Considered to be a medium sized spinning mill by Indian standards, Jheeva Rekhaa Textiles has no competitors within a 70km radius. Within the

A power loom

Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2011

Workers busy dyeing cotton saris in Chinnalapatti

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factory, nothing is wasted and everything is recycled. Imperfect fabric is sold as seconds to local markets. The factory also subcontracts other mills in the area to weave additional fabric by providing yarn and then buying the fabric back.

The fabric is sold to customers who then dye and manufacture products such as sheets and clothing. Their biggest customer is Sri Lankan apparel giant Brandix. Mr. Bharath would like to see his mill continue to grow and hopes to increase his exports to include Western customers.

To Dye For

Cotton fabric that has been produced using power looms is sent to dyeing factories such as those in Chinnalapatti, the village under the spotlight for Madurai Messenger’s ‘Village Voices’ this month. Chinnalapatti is famous for its cotton and silk sari manufacturing.

A tradition that has been passed down through generations, the people of Chinnalapatti have been making saris for over 500 years. Today, the village has over 60 small factories providing employment to much of the population. We visited one small Sungudi cotton sari factory where tie dyeing was done by hand.

Sungudi saris are worn by most women in India. Cotton is much cooler to wear in the warmer months and ideal for everyday use. The saris are sold to customers in Mumbai, Delhi and Calcutta, as well as overseas customers, who each request specific designs. The fabric comes from Tirupur. It is natural in colour and comes in bundles. They use about two to three bundles per day, each bundle makes about 100-130 pieces. Each sari uses about six metres of fabric and is hand dyed to fulfill individual customer requests. They dye between 500 and 1000 every four days, depending on demand. The factory employs 15 women and men who are all highly skilled. They work from 6 a.m.

– 7 p.m. each day, sometimes longer if necessary to fill the orders.

Watching the workers in action was almost like a concert of percussion. Each step of the process was like a rhythmic task requiring precise coordination between workers. Knots are tied in the fabric, before being folded into a square and laid on plastic paper. The fabric is then rolled up and placed length way between two ‘marakkattai’ or wooden sticks measuring about 30 cm by 5 cm.

The ends are then tightly stuffed with cardboard to prevent the dye from entering the fabric in the wrong places

and then dipped in dye. It all happens so fast. It was hard not to marvel at such a streamlined process and ultimately at the beautiful colours and patterns being created. After the dyeing is complete the fabric is unfolded and left to dry flat on the grass in an open space outside.

Perhaps the alarming thing to our Western eyes was the lack of health and safety in the factory, with no gloves or protective gear being worn by workers.

Apparently the dye washes off their skin with the use of bleach and there have not been any reports of associated health problems, but whether this is accurate remains unclear. Despite this, all the workers seem content and tell us that they very much enjoy their work and are proud of the brightly coloured saris they create.

Speaking to the factory owner’s wife, she told us that their work flow depends on demand. Fluctuating cotton prices will affect how much saris are sold for, but if prices are too high, customers tend to lessen orders. This has a knock on effect on the factory and ultimately, the workers.

Homespun Happiness On the other end of the cotton sari making spectrum, is the traditional

“While she has no choice in what she does, she believes one should live for the moment. She can’t read or write, but somehow she enjoys what she does and smiles to reveal an inner peace”

cotton hand looming which uses dyed yarn to intricately weave threads together. But it seems that this hand spun art is being taken over by the mass produced cotton saris made with fabric made by power looms. We visited a small village called Andipatti, where we met a hand loom weaver named Mariammal, 60, who works seven days a week to support her husband and son.

From the moment we set foot inside her tiny workshop, we were struck by her warmth but mostly by her unmistakable happiness.

Mariammal’s weaving workshop is also her home. It measures about six by three metres. Her hand loom, known as a ‘Kai Thari’, takes up about half of the space, while the other half is filled with an array of fabric, cooking utensils and what seem to be the family’s worldly possessions. The mind boggles at how three people live here in this tiny windowless concrete shed-like space.

Her only source of ventilation is through the two doors that open onto the street.

Natural light comes through these doors and also via a kind of skylight made of partially transparent fiberglass which is covered in dirt and cobwebs. It is desperately hot inside her workshop and my friend and fellow volunteer, Umberto, is feeling the heat as he literally drips with sweat on his first day on the job. The dirty cobweb laden fan looks like it’s never been used.

Hand looming requires constant focus and precision. Mariammal’s creations are bright and colourful, using cotton and polyester / cotton blends. She is commissioned by the government to make the saris which are given to poor people in villages surrounding Madurai.

She is provided with dyed yarn which she looms into saris and sells back to the government for Rs. 100-200 each.

She makes about four saris a week.

Her income after costs is only about Rs. 220 per week. To make the saris, the loom needs to be stocked with yarn, a process which takes one or two days to complete, a service that is provided by the government. One roll of yarn makes about 40 saris.

Her loom has been in the family for over 200 years, but sadly Mariammal has no one to pass it on to. Her son is disabled and her husband can no longer work due to failing health. It is her sole job to provide for the family, so she works hard. She says that she understands her destiny. While she has no choice in what she does, she believes one should live for the moment. She can’t read or write, but somehow she enjoys what she does and smiles to reveal an inner peace. Incidentally, she only has four saris herself. I couldn’t resist but to buy one while I was there. Mariammal was one of those special people you meet briefly, but their expression of joy stays with you forever.

Mariammal is just one of many hand loom weavers struggling to make a living and facing the sharp decline in the demand for hand made cotton saris. The future of handmade silk saris, however, looks a little more promising.

Simply Silk

Indian silk is renowned for its bright colours, strength, durability and texture.

Its textures and sensuous qualities have made it one of the most sought after textiles known to humankind.

The earliest evidence of silk dates back to around 3000 BC. According to legend, a silk worm cocoon fell into Chinese Empress Xi Ling Shi’s tea. When she pulled the cocoon out of her tea cup, it began to unravel and she had

Mariammal radiates an inner peace

Her home and workshop

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Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2011

the idea to weave it. She is also believed to have invented the hand loom. For 2000 years, the Chinese kept the rearing of silk worms, known as ‘sericulture’ a closely guarded secret.

Depending on which history book you read, the date of the earliest silk trade varies. It has been found in an Egyptian tomb dating 1070 BC, and adoration for silk was documented by ancient Romans and Greeks in as early as 400 BC. Around 300 BC, the desire for this coveted and expensive fabric prompted the development of the ‘Silk Road’, a network of trade routes to connect Asia to the rest of the world. The art of silk rearing spread to Korea around 200 BC with Chinese immigrants, and soon after, to Japan. Sericulture didn’t’ reach India until around 300AD. Sericulture in India has steadily grown over the past few decades and today accounts for 15.5 percent of global silk production. Types of silk include Mulberry, Tussar, Oak Tusssar, Eri and Munga silks. Tamil Nadu is the fourth largest silk producing state in India and produces mainly Mulberry silk.

Raw silk must undergo ‘twisting’ before being fed into looms.

The weaving of silk is then either done using hand looms or power looms. Silk saris and dhotis are made with hand looms, while silk fabric which is printed is made on power looms.

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The demand for silk is increasing. Adored by consumers all over the world, its popularity is likely to get greater. India has fantastic opportunities to provide silk for the world. To help meet the demand and foster better production, diversification and quality of silk, the Government of India set up a Central Silk Board. Support includes technical improvements such as modern rearing and cocooning equipment, drip irrigation kits and the importation of automatic silk reeling machines from China.

Generally, the silk market is strong, but it can be affected by weather. About 10 years ago, the silk sari market experienced a severe slump due to the monsoon. If the silk worm cocoons get too wet, it is not possible to create the fine silk. The following season saw a recovery and business seems to have been steady since.

The Art of Elegance

The silk sari is the height of Indian elegance, requiring fine artistry in its creation. It is a trade which is unfortunately becoming rarer, with fewer young people training to become weavers. But despite the influx of Western clothes, we were delighted to discover that the silk sari remains a staple of the Indian wardrobe, and certainly the essential attire for every Indian bride. We visited some hand loom weavers to learn about this elegant art.

Tamil Nadu is famous for its beautiful silk saris, and one of its most notable hubs of creativity is the village of Veeravanallur in Tirunelveli. A collection of 400 small adjoining light blue concrete houses are sprawled throughout the village. Each home houses a hand loom. Originally from northern Gujarat in west India, the people of Veeravanallur migrated to Tamil Nadu as skilled silk workers by invitation of the King of Madurai some 1010 years ago.

Hand loom weaver Ramesh lays out his beautiful silk saris

“Tamil Nadu is famous for its beautiful silk saris, and one of its most notable hubs of creativity is the village of Veeravanallur“

Ramesh Babu, 49, invites us into his home. We are instantly captivated by the bold colours and superbly detailed saris he is creating, not to mention the scale and complexity of the hand loom. His living room-cum-workshop is suddenly full of people as several of his family members join us, all eager to take part in the interview.

Ramesh has been making silk saris for about 27 years, having begun at 22 after a year of training. He shows us dozens of different saris to demonstrate the myriad of designs that are possible. The gold thread is particularly divine and adds significant value and desirability to the saris. He explains that depending on the intricacy of the design and use of gold or

“So long as there are Indian weddings, the demand for silk saris will remain strong”

Ramesh at work on his hand loom

copper thread, silk saris made here can sell for anywhere between Rs.1000 and Rs. 50,000.

His wife, R, Parameshwari, shares the workload like so many couples, interchanging throughout the day to keep the flow of work consistent. All throughout the village you can find teams of wives and husbands working on the looms, making an average of one sari every five to six days.

Concerned about the future of hand woven silk saris, I asked whether he felt there was a threat of declining business.

“So long as there are Indian weddings, the demand for silk saris will remain strong,” Ramesh explained confidently.

It is with great pride that Ramesh speaks of his two daughters and their own beautiful silk engagement and wedding saris, which he made. We were privileged to meet one of his daughters who showed us her stunning engagement sari.

Ramesh and his wife used to have two looms, but gave one to their eldest daughter as a wedding gift. Now that they are getting older and their daughters are grown up, they manage comfortably with the work load and income from one loom. His father sits in the background during our interview.

He’s a spiritual leader and has quite a presence. Most noticeable are his unusual piercing blue eyes and happy disposition. It is obvious that the whole

family share an enthusiasm for this family trade.

Krishna Moorthy works on an even bigger loom which takes up much of his house. He has been making saris for over 50 years. Surrounded by pictures of Hindu gods, he works tirelessly. Operating one of these hand looms feels akin to playing a musical instrument, perhaps a piano, as his feet and hands work together in unison.

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He is in hot demand as the only person within four local villages who is skilled enough to fix any imperfections found in the saris made by others.

Raman, 40, has been making saris for 15 years, and trained for three years to perfect his silk crafting. His wife, Ramira, assists him when she’s not fulfilling her duties as head of the local women’s self help group. Their loom seems even more sophisticated with parts of it passing up through the roof and out of sight.

Being in Veeravanallur for the day, one gets the feeling that silk saris aren’t just an occupation or an art, they are a way of life.

Fashion Forward

India’s cultural and financial landscape is transforming as a result of new pressures from the outside world, and from within. It seems inevitable in such an excitingly diverse and rapidly growing country. Textile production is engrained

Raman is proud of his enormous hand loom

in the Indian culture, but at the same time, it is advancing with increased use of technology. And although progress can be challenging, the players within the industry must find a way to adapt.

As it is the livelihood for millions of Indians, they will have to.

Fortunately, even though fashion in India is changing, there is definitely still a desire to honour tradition. The art of hand looming certainly needs to be

Madurai Messenger Cover Story June 2011

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Ramesh’s daughter at her father’s hand loom

“Indian style is unlikely to disappear out of the creative minds of fashion designers within or outside India, let alone in the imaginations of people all over the world”

preserved and while it does appear to be declining, the change is slow. So long as there are traditional Indian weddings, this fine art is likely to survive.

Western influence on the other hand, is growing, and it feels fast and instant.

But perhaps there is a balance. Perhaps the way forward is a fusion of East and West that uses both technology and artistry, and continues to centre around two of the world’s most popular fabrics, cotton and silk.

Depending on which way you look at it, there are positives and negatives. Like any cultural shift, there will be pockets of adoption and there will be those resistant to the outside, remaining firmly embroidered in their heritage.

But one thing is certain: Indian style is unlikely to disappear out of the creative minds of fashion designers within or outside India, let alone in the imaginations of people all over the world.

Madurai Messenger People June 2011

Diva of Design Beautiful silks, fresh cotton, intricate beading and hand embroidery are the epitome of Indian fashion. As fashion designers from around the world seek inspiration from Indian traditions, the future of Indian fashion lies with its own designers. Ingelise Jones got a special preview into a slice of modern Indian glamour, when she met Madurai-based fashion designer Mamta Fomra.

By Ingelise Jones Melbourne, Australia

Mamta Fomra, Madurai-based fashion designer

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s a little girl, I was mesmerized by the vibrant colours of India’s stunning landscapes and beautifully adorned people. I imagined an exotic land that could hypnotise me with its magic and beauty. India still captures my imagination and now that I am here, it is the colours that weave a common thread through my every experience. Everywhere I turn, women are wearing beautiful colourful saris, kurtis and salwar kameez. I find myself experiencing regular attacks of fashion envy! Their style looks so effortless. So with a love of colour, fashion and all things Indian, I jumped at the chance

to meet independent fashion designer, Mamta Fomra, whose elegant creations fuse together colourful Indian traditions with Western influences.

with silver embroidered swirls. She is fresh faced and engaging, eager to discuss her two greatest passions, fashion and family.

Fashion Fusion

With an obvious enthusiasm for her art, Mamta has an eye for detail, a discerning taste for quality, and a love of tailoring. Like many Indian fashion designers, she recognises the value of her country’s diverse textiles and seeks to preserve its heritage while still embracing Western elements.

Mamta works out of her home in Madurai. Her showroom–cum-office is at the front of the house. Racks of gorgeous clothes line the room. It was a pleasure to sit with her, surrounded by a myriad of hues, and learn about her journey in the world of fashion.

Today, Mamta personifies the IndianWestern fusion, wearing blue denim jeans and a hot pink kurti decorated

Mamta explains that there has been a shift in the buying patterns of Indian

Madurai Messenger People June 2011

“Her clothes are elegant and individual. She captures the essence of the modern Indian woman and man”

Mamta in her showroom-cum-office

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consumers, from functional to luxury.

“Consumers are changing. It’s less about functional products now. Many people have a desire for lifestyle and luxury,” she said. I get the sense that Mamta herself is somewhat seduced by lifestyle and luxury and yet she also appears to be well grounded.

Indian Essence

Simplicity and intricacy go hand in hand for Mamta. Clean lines and silhouettes of Indian style are blended with exotic trims, beads and buttons from all over Asia. Whether its women’s kurtis, salwar kameez, churidars, or men’s kurtas and sherwanis, her clothes are elegant and individual. She captures the essence of the modern Indian woman and man.

As she shows me some of her creations, her fondness for fabrics is obvious.

Mamta particularly enjoys working with crepe, silk, linen and chiffons, but she confessed she is a “cotton freak”. She likes using handspun cottons known as “Khadi”, and she also adores the art of ancient hand block printing and traditional chikan embroidery.

Boutique Beginnings

It’s a small scale operation. All of Mamta’s designs come to life in a labour room upstairs in her home. She employs five people, two of whom do hand looming. She has grown her

business organically over the years starting in 1996. With no market research, she dived in by exhibiting her designs in some Madurai hotels.

Through word of mouth and with support from her husband, mother-inlaw and friends, she collected a small number of clients and her popularity gradually grew. Unsure of where it would take her, she has always kept faith in herself. “When you are rejected from all spheres, God opens a new door,” Mamta exclaimed with a smile and a look of confidence.

When opportunity knocked to open her first boutique, she couldn’t resist.

Mamta juggled motherhood with her first boutique of made- to-order garments from 1999-2010 in the Gupta Complex, Madurai.

For the past year, she has been meeting clients at home and preparing to open a new boutique in August 2011. It will be her biggest project so far, taking 1000 square feet in the Vishal shopping mall. The new boutique will stock ready to wear garments as well as feature her special made-to-order service.

When she talks about her business, you can see an extra sparkle in her eyes. She says her passion for clothes and textiles runs through her veins.

Her grandmother was an impeccably dressed woman. As a young girl,

Mamta recalls visiting designers and tailors with her grandmother.

She treasures both her mother and grandmother’s clothes, and just a few years ago, took one of her mother’s ghagra and converted it into an outfit for her daughter, who was 11 years old at the time. Mamta describes the exercise as “soul satisfying”. It was the perfect blend of tradition, class, youth and modernity.

Style Sensibilities

The secret to her success is her ability to understand her clientele. Her client list is not massive, but they are most certainly loyal. She can fuse together tradition and modernity with function and glamour. Her fine eye for all things beautiful and unique means that no two pieces will be the same.

She can certainly turn your fashion dreams into reality, but even more impressive is the way that she can design something uniquely for you, exactly to your taste. She has a knack for helping her clientele express their personalities through clothes. She can tell you what colours suit your skin tone and your personality. Many of her loyal clients trust her implicitly, allowing her to essentially design for them with minimal input.

Another glimpse of glamour later, she reveals that some of her clientele are rather high profile. Not willing to

divulge who exactly, she did mention that she also caters to several Indians living abroad in the US, UK and Singapore.

Where she sources her materials is also a closely guarded secret. Not wanting to give too much away, she did divulge that she roams all over India, Nepal and parts of Asia to source fabrics, buttons, trims and threads. She loves to hunt for little treasures to use in her creations.

She admits that the Western influence is a daily presence in her life, with a taste for the luxury as well as the functional. While she adores Cartier jewellery and Jimmy Choo shoes, you’ll also find her lounging in the comfort of Benetton t-shirts. Inspired

by Western luxury fashion houses like DKNY, Gucci and Armani, Mamta also admires internationally acclaimed Indian designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Ritu Kumar for their Indo-Western fusion and Manish Malhotra for his Western wear.

From an early age, she was exposed to the clothes making industry through her family business, ‘Everest Industries Private Company’. The business involved the full process of making clothes, from dyeing to tailoring.

She recalls living and breathing the process, playing hide and seek among the clothes and even swimming in the dyeing pools after school! Mamta was

educated at an English medium school in Kolkata and studied commerce before getting married at 18. She then worked in the export part of the family business. She later completed a small fashion course which added another piece to her future puzzle.

Reflecting on her own inspiring fashion journey, I asked Mamta what advice she would give to her daughter and other aspiring fashion designers... She simply said, “Pursue your heart. Your brain will follow.”

Designer Dreams

Reflecting on her days in the family business, she said, “I learned so much about business but also about quality. Good quality is so important. I remember loving the feel and the smell of the fabrics.” Dreaming of tomorrow, she plans to increase her marketing activities, establish a website and make use of social networking.

Her image is full of good will and relies on a loyal following. Mamta would also love to expand. She feels Bengaluru, Chennai and Salem would be some of the best places for her label to take off.

When I asked her who she would most like to design for if she could choose anyone in the world, she named Sharukh Khan and George Clooney! But most of all, she’d like to design clothes for her daughter. Her two children are obviously the centre of her life. She is proud to tell me that her daughter Poorvi is wonderfully creative and is also keen to pursue a career in fashion and will hopefully study in the US or UK when she completes her schooling.

Mamta at work in her home

“Pursue your heart. Your brain will follow”

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Madurai Messenger Fashion June 2011

Madurai: Fashion’s Sleeping Beauty Fashion is everywhere! But it is not just about clothes - it is a lifestyle!

Follow Umberto Bacchi and Katharina Schneider on their journey through Madurai’s fashion jungle and find out if “Clothes maketh the Man”!

By Umberto Bacchi, Milan, Italy and Katharina Schneider Cologne, Germany Fashion watch in Madurai: People walking in the beating heart of the city

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hen it comes to fashion, Madurai is a kind of a ‘Sleeping Beauty’. As fashion in India moves to the beat of globalisation, here in Madurai, time seems to stand still. Madurai is famous for its temples, religious festivals and traditional tailoring and costumes.

The traditional dress of most women is the sari and the men wear dhotis.

In search of possible signs of change, we interviewed customers about their favorite clothes and shopping habits, as well as shop owners about their thoughts on the future of Madurai’s fashion. What is the difference between women’s and men’s fashion? Who is more fashionable? And what are the trends of tomorrow?

The Men of Madurai

Nowadays, Madurai men are divided into two groups. The line that separates them is mainly age, a line that also traces the border between traditional Indian and Western style.

Dhoti Devotion

Most men above 50 years of age, are still bound to the time-honored Indian traditional dress, the dhoti, and they wear it comfortably on almost every occasion. Choosing a dhoti is more a question of price and occasion, rather than a fashion issue. Dhotis are usually white, and differ only by the type of fabric and the ‘karai’, which are the coloured lines that adorn the lower edge of the dhoti. These two elements are the only things that influence a

dhoti’s price. This can vary from less than Rs. 100 up to several thousand.

Pure silk dhotis with a jari border, for example, are very expensive and are usually worn only on special occasions such as weddings, while those made of cotton are far cheaper and mainly for daily use.

The plain-white short sleeved shirt is the most popular and standard choice to pair with the dhoti, probably because it’s cooler to wear in the heat. However, men can express their individuality by elegantly matching their dhotis with light colored shirts, such as light blue and salmon pink, or striped shirts.

Go West

The Western way of dressing has been more commonly adopted by men under the age of 50. They mainly wear long

trousers and a shirt or t-shirt, but keep an average of one to ten dhotis in their wardrobes for special occasions.

Even though both the traditional and Western outfits are based on two main items, Western fashion offers a broader range of fashion solutions and trends.

Just like anywhere around the world, even in Madurai fashion trends differ slightly depending on the age range.

Younger people tend to wear more elaborate and fancy clothes, while those over 25 years of age, especially those who work in a formal environment, prefer a more classic look. According to some shop managers and custumers in Madurai, the younger more fashionable choices are: low waisted jeans, printed round neck t-shirts, especially those with added details such as a hood or graphic prints. Cargo shirts are also popular,

usually in colourful checks, with their multiple pockets, buttons and trims.

Men around 30 years of age, wear straight leg trousers and denim jeans, together with plain coloured polo shirts, or formal shirts in either plain colours, stripes or checks.

Accessorise It

Accessories, such as sunglasses, watches and stylish shoes have in some ways been neglected by the men of Madurai, but this trend is beginning to change.

For example, the majority still choose their informal footwear in relation to comfort and climate, preferring sandals for the most of the year. However, some people, mostly younger men, have started to buy trendy sneakers made by big Western brands such as Nike and Adidas.

Even though shop owners told us that customers are not always brand conscious when it comes to other accessories, popularity for watch brands like Fossil, Omega and Swatch is also growing.

The Lonely Shopper

Two things that men of all ages seem to have in common is that they do not like to go shopping by themselves, unless they know exactly what to look for. Also, they are not usually daily or regular shoppers. The number of ‘shopping days’ and the amount of money spent by each of them varies in relation to the thickness of their wallet and their tolerance for shopping.

In any case, it is very rare that a man would go shopping more than three times a month and spend more than Rs.2000 each time. For example, some of the customers we interviewed prefer to go shopping just once every three or four months. Men with families usually benefit by going shopping with their wives who have better taste, while others enjoy shopping with friends for the company and their advice.

The Women of Madurai

If you take a closer look on the streets of Madurai, you will surely notice the colourful clothes of each woman, like flowers blooming in a concrete jungleHowever, it’s not only the colour that stands out, it is also the tradition and culture behind it, which is the first and foremost influence in a woman’s

A retail shop for men’s clothing in Madurai

style. We also detected this during our interviews.

Nonetheless, when we asked the younger generation we discovered some alternative viewpoint regarding traditional clothes. It led us to ask the question: “Is there an invisible fashion movement going on in Madurai and what does it means for the women?”

Age of Innocence

Around the age of 20, it’s usual, and actually necessary, for women in Madurai to wear traditional costumes, which consist of three different styles: churidhars, salwars and saris. Churidhars with fresh new ethnic patterns of at least three colours, are sought after by woman between 20-30 years. Women over 30, are wearing salwars and sarees.

In conservative families, the latter should always be worn – no matter what your age – after getting married.

Trying to figure out the latest trends and favourite styles, we came across different opinions which were especially connected with the age of the customers. Girls under 12 years prefer mostly Western clothes, because of their comfort. These included sleeveless shirts, bermudas, shorts, skirts and flowing dresses in every colour or pattern imaginable. “In these clothes they can bear the heat more easily and feel free,” answered a woman, when we asked her why she was buying Western clothes for her daughter. Even teenagers from 13 to 20 years favour the Western style. Jeans and highnecked shirts with sleeves are on trend, even though this style is not appropriate to wear in the streets of Madurai.

Other than style, fabrics are also a matter of importance. The bestseller is cotton due to the fact that it is the most pleasant material for the heat and also well-priced. Silk is considered to be more traditional and worn by brides, as well as for ceremonies and official meetings. But traditional silk saris are beginning to be replaced by new designer saris. It’s the latest trend in Madurai. To follow this trend you will pay much more, but receive good quality, unique designs with fashionable prints, stones and interesting ornaments.

“We are wearing jeans at home, in girlhostels or on holidays in Bengaluru,” mentioned a girl, highlighting the gap between desire to be fashionable and the traditional dress code.

In relation to traditional dressing, women prefer handmade, unbranded and individual costumes harmonised with matching accessories like earrings, necklaces and colourful bangles. But

When you wear the designer saris, you don’t need to beautify your look with lots of accessories, they are pieces of art that stand for themselves.

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Madurai Messenger Fashion June 2011

even here, a small change has occurred.

Instead of wearing golden ornaments to show your social standing, nowadays, the trend is to wear Western influenced fashion jewellery made from different materials which come in a range of colours and designs.

Another Western trend to reach Madurai is leggings, which have established themselves next to the traditional costumes. Women and girls have start wearing leggings underneath skirts, churidhars and salwars.

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“Fashion gives you the possibility to express yourself, to be self-determined and feel self-confident by wearing your own style,” explained one woman. Her comment confirmed the problematic aspect of traditional Indian clothes.

Society prevents many women from expressing themselves through fashion.

Western style is often frowned upon and not tolerated. It can be considered to be provocative. So, in fact lots of girls and women want to wear Western clothes, like their Bollywood role models, but they can’t. “Women want to be pretty and look young. Actually, it’s not so much a question about traditional or Western clothes. First of all, it’s about the freedom to decide for yourself about yourself. Whatever fits you well and feels good to wear, should be the right choice!” Once a change happens in Madurai it will also have an effect on the woman’s role.

However, for now the fashion is still dominated by tradition. “Madurai is still a narrow minded village, but I hope it will soon become an open minded city.” concluded one self-confident and fashion forward woman.

General Manager of Kalyani Square, a retail company that own and operate Madurai franchises of many Western brands. “Now, we are the fourth best seller of the Levi’s brand in Tamil Nadu, and the surprising thing is that after only a couple of years, we had to dedicate an entire floor of the building to women’s fashion to meet increasing demand!”.

Awakening Beauty

Traditional clothes

On average, women shop twice a month and spend Rs. 1000-5000 each time. Women rarely go shopping alone, but usually with their mother, sisters or friends.

Confessions of a Shopaholic

“Every girl loves fashion!” expressed a woman during an interview. As a matter of fact, it’s a phenomenon which you can see all around the world and also in other cities in India. The shops are crowded with women all trying hard to follow the latest trend and fashion style.

Even Madurai is no exception. When talking to certain girls and women, it became clear that there is an interest in fashion, even though you can’t witness it on the streets of Madurai.

As we have pointed out, Madurai has always been a fort of traditional costumes in Tamil Nadu, and, as a result, fashion in the city has constantly been dominated by traditional clothes.

Today, if you take a snap of its crowded streets, at first sight you will not see much of a transformation but, with a deeper look, you will be able to see the seeds of change beginning to grow. Just walking along the streets, it is difficult to see this change, especially with women. However, by entering shops and speaking with shop owners you can sense the shift. According to them, the change began about a decade ago when male office workers were asked to wear Western formal clothes to work.

From then on, Western clothes began to spread out of business hours and enter the ordinary lives of men and children.

The new trend is, of course, being pushed forward by the younger generation who increasingly demand Western brands. “When we opened the Levi’s shop in Madurai in 2008, people thought we were in some ways crazy because nobody expected women to buy our stuff,” said Mr. S. Seetharaman,

Western fashion is growing

Step by step, more shops have started selling Western clothes and new ones are coming soon. A big new mall is in fact currently being built in Madurai and will host lots of Western brands such as Wrangler and Lee. Even old tradition stores have begun to change their stock according to their costumers’ new tastes. For example, two years ago Nalli’s started to sell shirts alongside dhotis in their men’s department.

“In a few years, a new information technology park will also be built, which will bring more students and young people to Madurai,” continues Mr. Seetharaman, “This means that new trends will spread faster and the face of Madurai will be soon different. Fashion is like a chain reaction,” he concluded: “When somebody starts to wear a fashionable style, soon another person, charmed by their outfit, will follow, then another one, and another and so on.

This is already happening in Madurai.”

Madurai Messenger Lifestyle June 2011

The Fitness Mantra

By Kristina Wlshusen, Germany

Everybody’s favourite : the treadmill

Kristina Wilshusen explores the local fitness scene and discovers that the global phenomenon is as much a reality in a conservative city like Madurai as it is in the West, with people chanting the fitness mantra in more ways than one.

T

ype the words “fitness industry in India” into a web search engine and you will be rewarded with enthusiastic reports about how the fitness industry is booming! Fitness training, workouts and general health awareness seem to be in vogue. The publishing industry also reflects it: Don’t Lose your Mind, Lose Your Weight, written by India’s celebrity dietican and fitness trainer Rujuta Diwekar, topped the best-selling charts in the non-fiction category in 2009.

So, are the people of Madurai also following the trend? What exactly is it that drives more and more people out of their comfortable homes into gyms and fitness equipment stores? And let’s not forget one thing: are they actually rethinking their eating habits? After all, as Rujuta puts it, “Exercise and diet are not mutually exclusive!” (p. 21) There’s no better place to look for answers than right on site. However, the first establishment I visited was a posh-looking gym which raised even

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more questions instead of answering any. Only one thing instantly became clear: with the ambience inside being as cool as ice, no client of this gym will perspire because of the oppressive South Indian summer. It’s all up to his or her efforts on the fitness devices!

This gym, which for the purposes of this article shall remain nameless, doesn’t seem to have enough clients yet. The staff were busying themselves polishing the unoccupied exercise machines when I asked for an interview, which wasn’t possible: “No interview permission. We need to ask our boss. Come back next week.” It’s a pity that I couldn’t find out more about the fitness philosophy of this particular gym. All the walls are covered with large-sized photographs featuring heavily muscled men and women. Compared to them, Arnold Schwarzenegger actually looks a little weak. Do prospective clients of this gym seriously crave exaggerated and unaesthetic bodies like that? Or maybe this is just the reason why there wasn’t anyone there.

Exercise vs. diet?

Exercise AND diet!

What a discouraging start! So the Madurai people aren’t into fitness after all? Luckily my next stop, a small fitness equipment store named “Excel Fitness/ Sports”, made my spirits rise again. It turned out to be the only chain store in Madurai, set up seven years ago. One of the staff members, Ms. Shobana J., readily confirmed my research that the Indian fitness industry is on the upswing. “Business has been improving steadily over the last couple of years.”

Still, it is only a small shop with a limited range of comparatively large goods: treadmills, exercise bikes, weight benches and the “jewel” of the assortment: a comfy massage chair. Two or three customers drop by the shop every day, mostly middle-class or upper-class families. What’s the motivation behind such a costly purchase: health or looks?

“It depends on the age. Young people mainly practice fitness in order to have

Madurai Messenger Lifestyle June 2011

well-toned bodies whereas older people do it for health reasons. Obesity and diabetes are serious problems in India.

People are starting to be aware of this, that’s why they come to our shop and buy a treadmill or an exercise bike.”

Shobana J. certainly has a point when she says that fitness plays a significant role in fighting widespread diseases such as obesity or diabetes. Spending a couple of hours on a treadmill won’t miraculously cure you of either, though!

True, the human body is designed for continuous activity, so the least we can do is give it some regular exercise to keep it in good shape and condition. But is it okay to eat whatever you want as long as you exercise?

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Author Rujuta Diwekar makes a pertinent connection between exercise and diet. “Do you think as long as you drive your car it doesn’t matter what you put into it; kerosene, petrol, diesel?

(People are always so much smarter about their cars than their bodies.)

Nope. Wrong! Now just because I use my body regularly doesn’t mean I should abuse it. So, exercise is a part of adopting a better lifestyle but it is NOT an alternative to eating right.” (p. 27) In short, a reasonable diet is just as important as practicing fitness if you want to lose weight and live a healthier life. Does the staff of “Excel Fitness/ Sports” inform their customers about this? “Of course we do. We don’t only sell fitness machines, we also provide our customers with thorough health advice. We keep in touch with them, even after the purchase, to check if they’re happy with their exercise machine.” This sounds like good service!

Just one last question, out of curiosity: does Shobana J. herself exercise in her spare time? Laughing bashfully, she admitted: “No, I never do any workouts.

I’m too lazy.”

Incidentally, “diet” is one of the most misunderstood terms in the English language. Having read Rujuta Diwekar’s book, I’ve learnt that eating correctly has to be a lifelong commitment, which automatically rules out any forms of extreme or crash diets. “Diet is not starvation! Weight loss, or rather fat loss, is just one of the many wonderful side effects of changing your lifestyle.

Think Pink - Madurai’s only women’s gym

(cf. page 7-13) There is no bravery attached to mere weight loss. You could achieve it just by falling sick.”

Hence diet programmes and exercising go hand in hand. Another memorable comparison made by Rujuta: “The body works on one basic principle: use it or lose it. Humans were born with a tail, but we lost it because we never used it.

Without exercise, we might soon lose out on our muscles and bone density.” (p. 25)

Think Health, Think Pink!

The next stop was another fitness equipment store, located just around the corner. This time, I didn’t even linger in the shop, but instead got the chance to visit the affiliate gym. More precisely, it’s a women’s gym that goes by the name of “Think Pink” – which says it all. The gym walls are pink, the fitness trainers’ t-shirts are pink, even most of the standard forms scattered over the manager’s desk are pink.

According to fitness trainer Ms. Uma Maheswari P., this gym is brand-new.

Opened in February 2011, it’s the only Madurai branch of an expanding chain. She admits there’s lots of competition around, but “Think Pink” benefits from an important trump: it’s the only women’s gym in the whole city. “Women feel more comfortable

practicing fitness when there are no men around!” Two or three customers (dressed in churidars) and fitness trainers were practicing on treadmills and exercise bikes when I entered the gym room. In fact, the only man in the room, looking visibly out of place, was the Projects Abroad Coordinator!

“Women appreciate this as a place for socialising as well as for exercising. You quickly make new friends here. Some of our customers actually have a treadmill at home, but they still prefer to come here for their exercise sessions!”

“Think Pink” currently has about 50 regular customers. Uma Maheswari P. confirmed my hypothesis: health and fitness awareness is on the rise in Madurai. She pointed out, though, that her customers’ main objective in practicing fitness is looks, not health.

Well, who would doubt it? They’re women! The desire to look pretty runs in their blood!

The customers may consider health as secondary, but the gym staff certainly don’t. Each customer’s health level and fitness progress are monitored and recorded accurately. What about the other side of the coin, i.e. health through fitness vs. dieting? “All of our fitness trainers have completed training in physiotherapy. But there’re also several nutritionists employed at

this gym, so we make sure our customers don’t forget diet matters!” Surely, Rujuta Diwekar would be proud of this gym’s philosophy.

At the end of the day, I’m fairly impressed. Madurai serves as a good example that the Indian fitness industry is indeed on the rise, and what’s more, it’s not just a passing trend! All of the fitness establishments I visited seemed very dedicated to their business and catered to the individual needs of their customers.

I complimented Uma Maheswari on her bright and modern workplace: “If I lived in Madurai for more than a few months, I would enroll at “Think Pink”!” Without missing a beat, she rattled through the list of advantages of a short-term membership. I opted for a quick getaway. What I didn’t tell her is that, just like Shobana J. from “Excel Fitness/Sports”, I’m too lazy for a serious fitness workout commitment myself.

Who knows? Things might have turned out differently if I had had Rujuta Diwekar herself on my interview list!

Don’t Lose your Mind, Lose Your Weight

Rujuta Diwekar is India’s top dietican and celebrity nutritionist who has worked with many of Bollywood’s fittest and India’s richest people. A Mumbai-based expert in sports science and yoga, she also runs her own marathon training group. Don’t Lose your Mind, Lose Your Weight, published by Random House India, is her first book and one of the most successful bestsellers of 2009.

“It’s worked for the stars. Now make it work for you.”

There are an abundance of nutrition and health guidebooks available. So what sets this book apart from all the others?

Of all dieticians, why do her customers (from celebrities to the common person) trust Rujuta? She promises you can eat anything you want, just as long as you follow four simple principles. Moreover, her book is spiced with catchy sentences like “All food is good” (p. 8), “Losing weight is incidental, a by-product of following a common-sense approach to eating” (p. 5/6) or “What is most important is that you feel good about yourself, treat yourself well” (p. 8).

Admittedly, this sounds tempting. Things don’t look so easy once you take a closer look at those principles, though: 1) Never wake up to tea or coffee. Instead, eat real food within 10-15 minutes of waking up. (p. 150) 2) Eat every two hours. (p. 158) 3) Eat more when you are active and less when you are less active. (p. 165) 4) Finish your last meal at least two hours prior to sleeping. (p.

172) On the whole, the book is easy to read (except for the Hindi one liners sprinkled throughout, which gives a Hinglish flavour). It contains all the nutritional ‘dos and don’ts’ that are commonly known all over the world: don’t overeat, don’t eat late at night, etc. – plus a lot of specialised information on typical Indian food and eating traditions. It ranges from trivial to bizarre. Fancy a foretaste or two?

According to the author, Indian history has been heavily influenced by the biscuit: “the British influenced the food that Indians ate and the grand style in which they introduced the biscuit to the Indian diet. Bread, biscuit and alcohol are bad carbohydrates or fast carbs and provided no nourishment to the Indian mind which then easily accepted slavery, because processed food leads to dullness and lethargy” (p. 83).

Another memorable association the author makes is regarding nature’s call. The author argues convincingly that the traditional Indian toilet, with its squatting position, is the healthiest way of ‘letting go’. “Western toilets and the discomfort they bring to the body have been identified as a contributor to constipation, colon cancers and irritable bowel syndrome. “ It makes you wonder if all the millions of Western people are aware of the constant danger they put themselves in!? By the way: “Of course, to get comfortable in the Indian sitting posture you will need to workout regularly to keep those hips and legs strong and flexible and the joints lubricated.” (p. 157).

So here we are, back to the point that fitness matters! It’s amazing how many ways Rujuta Diwekar highlights the connection between nutrition and exercise…

Rujuta Diwekar’s bestselling book

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Madurai Messenger Issues June 2011

Saving the girls of Usilampatti The problem of female infanticide in India is one that surfaced dramatically during the late 1980s when a spotlight was shone on the district of Usilampatti, West of Madurai. Sibonile Mathe reports on the sensitive and pragmatic strategies initiated by the Indian Council for Child Welfare in addressing this pressing social issue.

By Sibonile Mathe UK - Zimbabwe

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Boys are equated with income for many families throughout India and the world over. They are not only seen as the solution to many problems, they also carry on the family name. Whereas girls mean a life time of expenses. The plight of the girl child is one that begins at birth where she has to fight for her right to stay alive.

In 1988, the Indian Council for Child Welfare (ICCW), an NGO working to protect the rights of children across India, started work in Usilampatti as requested by theTamilNadu Government. According to the ICCW, two hundred and thirty children were killed in this area in 1989. Baby girls were being killed simply because they were seen as a financial burden to their families. This cruel practice highlights a significant sex bias in which girls suffer the consequences. The community in Usilampatti was on the brink of destruction, condemned by the world at large.

When speaking with P. Pramil Kumar, the project coordinator at ICCW (Usilampatti), there was a clear level of commitment from both him and the staff to eradicate female infanticide.

He confidently said, “This problem of female infanticide will not happen here again.“ I was keen to understand what underpins such as bold statement. Mr. Kumar explained that it has been a long hard struggle to change the mind set of the people living in Usilampatti.

In fact, it has been 23 years since the ICCW began work in the area. Initially,

Usilampatti girls are educated at the ICCW community college

when the issue first surfaced, it was extremely difficult to get access to the area because of all the media attention.

It seemed as though the people of Usilampatiti were being persecuted.

They had their guard up and were determined not to let anyone in. One can only image how difficult it must have been to even bring up such a sensitive issue.

It was not until 1992 that this cruel inhumane practice was officially recognised. Dating back over 50 years, it is hard to imagine how these atrocities were not brought to light sooner. However, as it is such a sensitive issue with human lives at its core, it seems to be one of the world’s best kept secrets.

ICCW’s initial work was health based.

Mothers were targeted and offered medical help by field workers. A mobile medical unit was set up to provide the people in the area with free health care. Pregnant women were asked to register with the team in order to monitor their health. During this time, ICCW staff focused on health care and did not broach the subject of female infanticide until the people in the village trusted them more. Having registered with the ICCW, pregnant women were monitored and classified into three groups, according to risk factors. A woman’s first delivery was categorized as low risk as it was highly unlikely that female infanticide would occur in this instance. The second delivery was high

Self help group members

risk if the first born was a girl, and the third delivery was always a high risk.

Cultural Origins

In order to understand the cause of female infanticide, one has to understand its cultural origins, especially the patriarchal mindset that values males over females. In the past, girl children were seen as an expense to the family and boys were seen as an asset.

To a certain extent, this is also true today. Families with girls are expected to pay for many cultural events throughout her life. This includes a ceremony at birth, and an earring ceremony called Kadhu Kuthu when she turns one.

When she reaches puberty, her family must also pay for an age attending ceremony to announce that she is a woman. From the moment she is born, her family start saving for her marriage and the dowry they will have to pay to their future in-laws. Finally, before the birth of her first child, her family has to pay for a ceremony to celebrate the newborn. And to top it all, if the women cannot give birth to a male baby she would be sent back to her parents home for the rest of her life.

To people outside this community, it seems strange to equate a human life to money. However, as Mr. Kumar explained, poverty is a major problem in the area. Like many other places in the world, poverty can breed many social issues. To avoid future financial burdens of bringing up girl children, most families resorted to killing them.

According to Mr. Kumar, this practice was so engrained in the minds of these people that the challenge was more than just helping girl children to live, but it was also about changing social attitudes. It was no mean feat.

Solutions to a difficult problem

Three strategies were put in place by the ICCW to tackle female infanticide.

Students of the ICCW community college

Firstly, there was direct intervention through the mother and child welfare programme, which provided free healthcare. Secondly, there was a literacy programme sponsored by ICCW to educate the first born girlchild in poorer families, relieving the financial burden of sending children to school.

Finally, an economic programme was set up in the form of self help groups.

These strategies were long term solutions and were favoured above police intervention, which proved to only be a quick fix.

Under the umbrella of the economic programme, the self help groups were designed to empower women.

As members of a self help group, the women saved money and appointed a leader amongst themselves known as an ‘animator’.

These savings were used as loans to start small businesses and help support their families financially. By providing women with an opportunity to be part of something that they owned, they became more independent. This in turn led to them being able to contribute to the up keep of the home and have more of a say in the running of their households.and within their community.

ICCW staff members were put in place to monitor the activities of the self help groups. As a prerequisite of being a member, women had to pledge that they would not participate in female infanticide and would monitor that it did not occur.

These programmes work in unison not only to provide women with economic stability, education and health care, but also to build their confidence.

This confidence is essential in the long term. Research carried out by ICCW field workers found that when female infanticide occurs, the mother is often pressured into it by other family members such as her husband or mother-in- law.

A new dawn

The ICCW has been working tirelessly in Usilampatti for over 23 years to not only uplift this community but also to ensure the eradication of female infanticide. A number of measures have been put in place to create a positive environment not only for girls but also boys. One such measure, as described by Mr. Kumar, is that of adolescent training. During this eight day training, girls and boys are taught eight models that include confidence building, health and hygiene, nutrition, women’s rights and career prospects. Through this work, the ICCW aims to foster self confidence and break down barriers of gender inequality.

Usilampatti, like many other Taluks in Tamil Nadu, had a high school drop out rate especially amongst girls,. A great proportion of the families in this area cannot afford to send their children to school. Another ICCW educational initiative is in partnerhips with CIA, an Italian organisation that sponsors girl children from the poorer families throughout their education.

The ICCW also runs a community college that offers technical training and diplomas in areas such as home appliances and computer based programmes. Two other subjects offered include English and Life Skills.

The community college also offers work placements on completion of the courses, and they hope to start a nursing programme and a garment stitching course in the near future.

“Children are the future” is a phrase propagated by many revolutionaries and social pioneers. It’s one that is also taken seriously by the ICCW and their staff. They have fully engaged the youth of Usilampatti in the future of their community. They have not only provided them with awareness about social issues such as those associated with gender, but they also equip them with the tools to embrace the future and not repeat the past.

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Madurai Messenger Issues June 2011

Valli Annamalai: Pioneer of Women and Children’s Rights

By Sibonile Mathe UK - Zimbabwe

V

illa Annamalai is the honorary secretary of the MotherChild Welfare Project in Usilampatti, an initiative of the Indian Council for Child Welfare – TamilNadu (ICCW -TN). This sentiment is one in which she has a great belief and is evident in her commitment to helping others.

Coming from a family that put other people before themselves, Valli’s role models were her mother and grandmother and they influenced the path she chose. In 1986, she was part of a leadership development programme called the Junior Chamber International. However, her membership did not satisfy her as she felt she had to help where help was really needed.

She saw the media coverage about female infanticide in Usilampatti a Taluk in Madurai district and just 48 km from her home in Madurai. “As a woman l could not just sit back and do nothing,” she said, reflecting on the moment when she decided to work for the ICCW.

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Women are at the heart of female infanticide. Valli describes the issue as “a deep rooted cancer of the mind” that could not be solved overnight. She highlights that mothers had no say in the future of the lives of their children. She spoke of one woman she met who had gone though six pregnancies all resulting in female babies. The mother sacrificed all of them until she finally had a baby boy. Valli therefore believes it is necessary to inform and empower these mothers.

“If you are blessed, why not do something for people who are not so blessed?” - Valli Annamalai

Tamil Nadu was one of the first districts to adopt the ICCW regulations. It was, in a sense, the pilot case. Valli explained that because they were dealing with a very sensitive issue, it was necessary to tread with caution. Speaking to the villagers was difficult. A new way of thinking had to be adopted to help Usilampatti fight infanticide. Daycare centers were opened in the area and used as entry points into the lives of these women. It became apparent that the people would have to acknowledge the existence of female infanticide in their community before they could be helped. It took a whole year before Valli and the efforts of the staff at the ICCW were successful.

Over the course of two decades, Usilampatti has experienced a paradigm shift. Fortunately, a new way of thinking has allowed the eradication of female infanticide. This would not have been possible without the hard work, determination and dedication of women such as Valli and the ICCW.

Out of Sight, Out of Mind

“They are like our mothers who carry the shit of their babies. They are the mothers of the entire country. They sacrifice. They give. Who else will do it?”

In Shit, a rare and confronting documentary, we see a world quite unimaginable to most of us. The sweepers, known as ‘scavengers’, perform an unpleasant but necessary job on the streets of India. Sandy Benkimoun meets the creative mind behind this critically acclaimed documentary, Amudhan R.P, and a street sweeper named Jeyachandran.

By Sandy Benkimoun, Marseille, France

W

hen you walk around this wonderful country, you may notice a group of poor people sweeping the streets and cleaning up after all of us. You cannot help but ask, “Who are they?” especially when you come from a wealthy country like mine.

In Western countries, ‘scavengers’ are involved in an ecological and economic movement. They give away things to other people which they feel are non-vital for themselves.

Their goal is to reduce the amount of waste they produce.

In India, the ‘scavengers’ are a group of people who are also concerned about waste, but in a very different way.

A street sweeper in Madurai

These scavengers are the lowest Indian caste. Some of them are lucky to have jobs as labourers, but the majority of them are street sweepers. The sweepers are employed by the government and represented by the Madurai Municipal Corporation, to clean the streets and public toilets by picking up and sweeping away human excrements. However, this occupation is unlike any other. While on one hand it is

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Madurai Messenger Issues June 2011

considered a public social service, in a strange twist of Indian law, this kind of work is actually forbidden. It is a contradiction which highlights the difference between law and reality; and shows us what’s accepted and what’s ignored.

A Caste of Their Own

Although thousands of people are unemployed in India, only one community comprises of the scavengers.

These so called scavengers are also referred to as Kuravars or Dalit. In the West, they are sometimes described as the ‘untouchables’. But if we want to be less politically correct, we can call it a “caste issue”, just as Amudhan R.P did during our interview. His simply but powerfully titled documentary, Shit, centres around the life of one street sweeper and highlights the issues and struggles faced by these people.

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I met a scavenger named Jeyachandran, who has been a sweeper for 16 years and is 49 years old. He applied voluntarily for this work at the municipality of his village. He managed to get the job thanks to his grandmother who was already a sweeper. The rest of his family, including his three brothers, are either labourers or sweepers in a hospital. When he began, he earned only Rs. 4000 per month, but now, because of his good experience, he earns Rs.12000 per month. After retirement, he would like to own a shop with his family.

Exposing Truths

In Shit, Amudhan explains that, “55 percent of the Dalit affiliated with the Madurai Municipal Corporation are women. “ He decided to shoot about 25 minutes a day in the life of Mariyammal, a sanitary worker. He chose her because she had such a strong personality. I asked him if he thought she represented the sweepers well. He answered with a yes and a no.

Indeed he described her as gifted, with a harsh sense of humour and an ability to work hard. But of course, he is also aware of the violation of her rights.

Above all, Mariyammal demonstrates pride, a trait she shares with Jeyachandran, and one that I realise is common in this community. However, Amudhan acknowledges that this film shows, “just a slice of her life.

We cannot see her home and her children…,” His portrayal of her life received much critical acclaim. Shit won the award for best film at the One Billion Eyes film festival awards in 2005 and also won the National Jury Award at the 2006 Mumbai International Film Festival.

Filmed in 2003, Mariyammal cleans a very dirty street near the Meenakshi Amman Temple of Madurai. The story focuses on how degrading this work is and on the anger and disappointment she feels. “Their three jobs are cleaning the shit, lifting things and carrying the bodies of dead animals,” points out Amudhan.

He adds that, “The representatives of the Madurai Municipal Corporation are culprits and criminals, because they know these people are suffering and they are doing nothing. Manual scavenging has been illegal since 1999, but the government still employs people to do it for very low wages without time for resting. It is a total exploitation by the government of Tamil Nadu.”

Evolution of the Sweepers

This producer sees this film as his “contribution to the new wave of the nineties.” Indeed, during this period, the Dalit got enlightened and managed to organise a proper revolt and successfully fight back. “There was a wave,” exults the film maker.

These words actually surprised me because the day before I met Amudhan, I was talking with Jeyachandran, who on the contrary, seemed particularly satisfied with the evolution of the sweepers’ situation in the past few years.

Nowadays, the Court grants an eight hour work day in safer conditions with Sundays free. Jeyachandran stresses, “The government listens to them and fulfils their demands.” He is proud of having a “safe job for a proper salary and no waste of time.” He is able to live with his wife in a house which he will stay in, even after his retirement, thanks to government rent.

When I asked him if he has to deal with laughter or violence from the inhabitants of Madurai, he admits that it happens often, “We have to tolerate it

Amudhan R P, Director of: “Shit”

because we know they have a real job,” he said.

It appears shocking. How much shame and degradation can this community experience? I had this question on the tip of my tongue but I did not wish to damage this wall of pride he had, and needed. I have to admit that I admire him because this good, honest man is so proud of being able to provide for his family. At least he has this right.

Such a traditional caste system does not allow people to evolve, keeping them in pauperism from birth to death. Indeed, once you are born into a caste, you cannot leave it. “It defines every part of your life: your work, your clothes, your wedding. The traditional system is not democratic,” says a distressed Amudhan.

He later completes his reflection by explaining that, “Respect, protection and a proper salary are for the other people. On the contrary, the people below the poverty line receive no respect.” Despite what Jeyachandran said, it is hard not to agree with the producer. When the producer visited the place where Mariyammal lived, he described her “house of functions” as being in very bad shape, in the middle of a slum which smells to high heaven.

Things are certainly changing for the sweepers with regard to their salaries and working conditions. But as the documentary maker Amudhan explains, “It is a circle.” By this, he means that, on one hand, if the government had

built a proper water cleaning system from the beginning, this tribe would not have had to live and work in this tradition. On the other hand, these people do not want to lose their job because they absolutely need the money, and yet they do not wish their children to practice this profession.

Nevertheless we need to be aware that this circle, “cannot be abolished immediately, but rather gradually, by giving them some equipment and by increasing the facilities in order to reduce their pain,” explains Amudhan.

Underneath it All

I went to find the dirty Madurai street featured in the film Shit, but it was closed. The documentary’s subject, Mariyammal, has since been transferred to a better work place where she does not have to carry the excrements by hand.

When I heard with my own ears the apparent job satisfaction of Jeyachandran, it would have been easy to think that the biggest part of their problems had been solved. But during my interview with him, I slowly realised that he had managed to cope with the job by drinking alcohol. He actually spent a huge part of his wages on it.

What is even more relevant is the fact that most of his coworkers die fairly young. He tells us this quite casually as if it is just accepted.

Again, how much can one man endure in such a situation? I think Amudhan managed to express our generally shared feelings about meeting the sweepers, “I felt very moved, angry, frustrated and ashamed because everybody is enjoying their service but does not respect them. So I started questioning myself: how much do I profit out of them?”

In the words of the great Mahatma Gandhi: “People have to clean their own shit.”

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Two scenes from the movie: “Shit”

Such a traditional caste system does not allow people to evolve, keeping them in pauperism from birth to death. Indeed, once you are born into a caste, you cannot leave it. “It defines every part of your life: your work, your clothes, your wedding.

The traditional system is not democratic,” says a distressed Amudhan.

Madurai Messenger Culture June 2011

The Test of Fire Monique Djarn witnesses the spectacular fire walking ceremony in Srivilliputtur, held in the honour of Goddess Mariamman who, people believe, will cure diseases and provide rain. Spellbound by the triumph of mind over matter, she attributes her disbelief in the firewalker’s absence of pain to her Western logic! Nevertheless, she is filled with a sense of awe for the firewalker’s high threshold of pain!

By Monique Djarn Copenhagen, Denmark

The hindus get ready at start

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M

ay 3, 2011 is a new moon.

For the people in Srivilliputtur, the temple town which is 75 km from Madurai, the first new moon is the time for the annual fire-walking ceremony. It is a Hindu ritual originating in Tamil Nadu and held in the honour of Goddess Mariamman. The Hindus believe that this ritual will ensure adequate rain, and prevent or heal illnesses. The ritual of self-purification also ensures people’s wellbeing.

Calm before the storm

As we approach Srivilliputtur, it is obvious that something is happening.

Tension and excitement fill the air. All the people are walking in the same direction, like ants heading towards an anthill. As we come closer, the smell of jasmine mixes with smoke in the air. Women, men and children dressed in yellow – the firewalkers—begin to fall in line.

We are still a few hundred meters away from where they are supposed to cross the burning hot embers, but the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.

Indian music is playing, and quite often, we hear announcements over the Public Announcement system (PA) about the fire walk that is to commence shortly.

Approximately 100 meters away, a queuing system begins where the men and women are divided into separate groups. They are not herded in yet, but looking back at their faces eager with anticipation, I am reminded of racehorses waiting to take their positions at the start gate. We make it to where the fire-walk is supposed to take place. The hot embers are being laid to form a burning carpet. The temperature is rising and tension starts to spread among people. Sweat drips from everyone’s faces, and people push and squeeze to get a seat in the front rows to watch the event.

Walking on the embers

All of a sudden it begins! Like animals entering a circus ring, the area around the embers is packed. The atmosphere changes from tense to hysterical. The men walk with determination as if they are going to war. The first ones to set foot on the embers are the holy priests.

They enter the ring from the exit side, which means that they have to go from one side to the other and then over the embers. This gives them a longer time to be applauded by the crowd.

Next come the rest of the Hindus, divided into groups of men and women.

It is quite an amazing to see a large number of people crossing the embers.

Some men, women and elders are carrying their children or grandchildren across on their shoulders. Even people with disabilities wish to walk on the bed of fire unaided. The reactions are varied. Some smile, some cry, and some scream! But they all share the same relieved, proud, redemptive faces the instant they complete the walk. It looks as if they have been healed or saved from something terrible. It is also heartwarming to see how the children and physically challenged are cheered on with an applause every time they cross.

Mr. V. Pandi on his way over the embers.

A boy, disabled, father and woman crossing the hot embers.

A man on a mission Out of curiosity, we decide to follow one of the firewalkers. A million questions whirl around in my head. Does it hurt?

What does the yellow color represent?

How do they prepare themselves? When will they know if the ritual has been successful?

V. Pandi was 15 years old when he faced the bed of embers for the first time. He remembers feeling extremely scared, but incredible afterwards. Today, he is 35 years old, and is determined to cross the embers three years in a row.

Once someone accomplishes this, you get to cut a goat’s throat in front of the temple on the second day after the walk. It is a great honour that all Hindus

strive for. But crossing the embers is just one aspect; for the rest of the ritual is just as, if not more, challenging.

Pandi tells us, “Normally you have to fast for 16 days with meals allowed only at night. It has to be vegetarian and must be eaten on banana leaves.

You have to bathe twice a day, wear clean clothes and sleep on the floor on a clean towel. During the day, you cannot wear sandals. Everything has to be as natural as possible, with little reliance on man- made comforts and technology.” The preparations are deemed necessary for the firewalker to get totally purified, before he crosses the embers.

No pain?

But does it hurt? In my head, I already have the answer. After seeing all the strained faces, hearing the screams and seeing the liberation on the faces of the people, I cannot imagine it to be anything else but a resounding “yes!”

Pandi’s answer, however, is completely opposite to mine. “No!” he answers without any hesitation. He says that all the preparations before the walk, accompanied with the holy flowers, the protective yellow clothes and the Neem leaves, gives them the strength to withstand the heat. They walk with their arms above their heads, hands pressed together in a prayerlike fashion, as a greeting to Goddess Mariamman. For some, the walk is part of a vow in which the devotee promises to walk on fire, in exchange for a wish or a blessing that is granted to them by the Goddess. They believe that if they are blessed by her they will cross unscathed. Watching their feet

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Madurai Messenger Culture June 2011

A relieved and popular Mr. Pandi after his walk.

A man falling after his walk on the embers

The foot that proves Maraiamman’s blessing

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intensely, without seeing any blood or burn marks, it seems as if Maraiamman is in a benedictine mood today.

Despite such difficulty to refute the evidence, I still find it difficult to believe that the walk does not hurt. I know that even walking on hot sand on a very hot day can be a nightmare. With that in mind, a walk on burning embers must surely be torture. Maybe it is my Western weakness, my lack of belief or my logic that makes me doubt the absence of pain.

Nevertheless, taking a look at Pandi’s unscathed feet and his satisfied face, I leave the ceremony with an admiration for their belief and true respect for the firewalker’s pain threshold.

Madurai Messenger Ordinary People, Extraordinary Lives June 2011

Service with a Smile We begin a new series on people who do ordinary things in an extraordinary way and touch the lives of others. Kristina Wilshusen interviews Raja Lingam, who serves tea and coffee at the Projects Abroad Journalism office. He is the most sought-after person at 4pm every day when he slides in with his steaming cuppa!

By Kristina Wilshusen Germany A man who knows his tea

R

aja Lingam, 53, was born in Perayur near Madurai. But in Project Abroad’s journalism office, it’s not his CV that he’s famous for. It’s his rare smile and trustworthiness. If the office door is locked, he will open it for you. He’s the soul of the office. He’s our “tea guy”!

Raja Lingam never fails to turn up in our office around 4pm. Sometimes he comes so quietly that you neither see nor hear him coming. Suddenly he’s right beside you and confronts you with the crucial question of the day: “coffee or tea?” Ten minutes later, he will be back with the hot drink of your choice and wait patiently until you finish it.

The owners of the office building first employed Raja Lingam as a watchman about ten years ago. For the first five years, he was stationed at their paper factory in Kappalur. After that, he was transferred to Pasumalai in Madurai.

Right now, he is in charge of several buildings in this neighbourhood, including the owners’ private house, the journalism office and a Projects Abroad guesthouse.

When I asked him the inevitable question if he likes his job, Raja Lingam didn’t hesitate: “Yes, I do! It’s good work. I especially enjoy working with the volunteers because everybody is very friendly with me.” Actually he not only likes his job, but also seems to excel in it. As he proudly told me, his employers have just recently asked him to stay with them for the rest of his working life. In Western terms, they offered him an oral permanent labour contract.

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He works from 8:30am to 8:00pm with a break in the afternoon. Of course, he does much more than just serving tea during these long working hours! He guards and cleans all the buildings he’s in charge of, sweeps and dusts, waters the plants and does whatever else is necessary at the time.

The most memorable incident in his career as a watchman? Any burglary, any hold-up robbery? “Nothing like that. But once, on my way to the grocery store, I was hit by a car! I broke my hand.” Now this is interesting: should a watchman’s life in Madurai actually be less dangerous than South India’s everyday traffic?!

Anyway – let’s get back to tea matters.

Projects Abroad’s journalism volunteers couldn’t wish for a more experienced person to serve them their afternoon tea. As a matter of fact, Raja Lingam

grew up in Sri Lanka and worked at a tea plantation for several years when he was younger. Currently, he lives in Kappalur with his wife. Their two daughters are already married and their son works in the textile-weaving industry. However, due to his long working hours, Raja Lingam doesn’t get to spend much time with his family.

Sunday is his only holiday, so there’s not much room for leisure.

Does he like cricket? “No, I’m not really interested in cricket. But I like Indian dances. I used to be a dancer myself.”

So that’s the personal side of our tea guy! I’m sure that from now on, I’ll see him in a different light and appreciate his service even more than before.

What’s Raja Lingam’s own preference when it comes to the question of the day? Coffee or tea? He smiles broadly: “Tea, of course!”

Madurai Messenger Public Health June 2011

Stray Dogs: Boon or Bane?

Rabies is a deadly viral infection that is mainly spread by infected animals, especially dogs. In Madurai, three to five people die from rabies every month.

Despite the success of the Animal Birth Control and Anti-Rabies Programme, rabies continues to pose a threat as a major public health issue. Monique Djarn finds out why‌ 32

By Monique Djarn Copenhagen, Denmark

protect you, but you have turned your back on them. Now you see them everywhere. Often stray dogs wage a battle for the survival of the fittest. They fight even to just stay alive. They are starving, they are sick, and there are too many of them.

One Step forward

In 2001, the Animal Birth Control (ABC) and Anti-Rabies Programme (ARP) were implemented in India. Every year, hundreds of thousands of stray dogs were sterilised and vaccinated. Tamil Nadu implemented the Animal Birth Control and Anti-Rabies Vaccination Programme in 2007 with great success for the entire state. At least so far.

S

tray Dogs. He or she is the outcast of society. The bad company you are not allowed to play with.

Nobody cares about them. They are seen as a menace, a disease, something to stay away from. Their nature is to

Dr. M. P. Karunakaran, a veterinarian and specialist in high breed dogs, says that when the programme first began in 2007, it was wonderful to see a reduction in the number of stray dogs. The incidence of rabies was also reduced and a set of rules concerning animal cruelty was established. With these rules, the public could report to the police if they saw anyone harm an

animal, and this person would then be fined. Unfortunately, these rules are not followed. Even if they are, no one seems to care enough about animal welfare to have them enforced.

Stray dogs on the increase

Lately, Dr. Karunakaran has again seen an increase in both the stray dog population and rabies. He fears that this is because the fundraising organisations are running out of money or because the money is landing in the wrong hands. Nevertheless, does it mean that the organisations are unable to continue the Animal Birth Control and Anti Rabies Programme which has a lot of consequences for both animal and people?

By not following the ABC Programme, public health related problems such as rabies, as well as other diseases, will increase tremendously. With an increase in the number of dogs, there is a high risk that the diseases will transmit to humans. This will lead to human death as well as higher medical expenses.

the vaccinations they need when they are born. By letting people know that the stray dogs are receiving proper veterinary supervision, they probably would not be as afraid of them as they are now. At the same time, they could help by reporting when a dog has given birth, in order to have the puppies vaccinated and sterilised as soon as possible, to prevent them from getting infected with rabies.

When I asked Dr. Karunakaran if he was doing anything about the stray dog problem, his face changed. A mix of frustration and guilt appeared on his face. It was obvious that I had touched a raw nerve. He admitted that as an individual, it is very difficult for him. As much as he wants to help, he does not have the resources or the employees to go out and catch the dogs on the streets. The government does not give any money to private clinics when they vaccinate or sterilise stray dogs, so every dog he vaccinates and sterilises is out of his own pocket. The medical cost is about Rs. 400 depending on the breed, so it is understandable why Dr. Karunakaran cannot afford to vaccinate every dog he comes across. He says that it would take a genuine organisation and a general change in people’s minds to get to the root of the problem.

The Root Cause

The whole problem has its roots in the non-existent garbage disposal system. The carelessness concerning our environment is now punishing us.

In Madurai, trash is everywhere and creates a paradise for pests. The dogs get rabies from the pests that they eat.

As the infection spreads, the dogs can become very aggressive towards us.

It is as if the dogs are Mother Earth’s

I know that these actions seem so easy when they are written in black and white. Of course, it is not as easy as it seems. There are a lot of obstacles that make it extremely hard to find a solution.

Money and corruption are some of the biggest issues, but if we are starting small, a good step is to help people change their attitudes towards dogs.

Dogs – Our Best Pals executioner, showing us what our ignorance can cause.

A garbage disposal system would be a big step in the right direction. If we could decrease the garbage in town, there would not be as many pests and that would reduce the rabid dogs.

Combined with the ABC and ARP, we would be able to control their breeding and give most of the dogs

Learn to look at them as living creatures.

Creatures that, with the right love and care, are willing to sacrifice their lives for you. Be aware that ignoring them, and being passive in their development, may contribute to them becoming a real danger to a lot of people.

Right now they are a problem, but they are a problem we can overcome. I say it is time we start helping our best friend once again.

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Madurai Messenger First Impressions June 2011

A Stranger

among Strangers

By Katharina Schneider Cologne, Germany

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A local boy with his goat

A stranger looks at a stranger

For Katharina Schneider, it is an overwhelming feeling of getting in touch with the extraordinary culture, people and life of India.

“U

nforgettable!” that’s what I thought on my first drive from the airport to the centre of Madurai. And truly this awesome first view of India through the dusty window of the jeep still stays in my mind. The intense smells, the shining colours, the expanding rubbish, the back-breaking heat, the bumpy road which made you jump up every now and then; but most of all the people in the small villages we passed through are etched in my memory. I have travelled a lot, or at least thought I had, but nonetheless I have never seen something comparable to that. Almost everything seemed to be different. Each corner showed a new interesting facet of the Indian life and made me want to jump out of the jeep and go around to see all the little things closer and get in touch with the people.

I saw locals sitting in front of their door, talking to their neighbors and eating with their hands from palm leaves, while

some others washed their clothes in a bucket in a small backstreet. Equally impressive was a man sitting next to a cow lying down, whose feet were bound together (probably the man was a kind of a blacksmith). Most of the Indians, who noticed me, were staring at me like I was an alien. Some of them smiled, some others waved to me and again others were just still standing and watching. At this moment I remembered a certain sentence from a movie, a book or maybe a song, which captured my situation and my feelings exactly:

it was not just the obvious things that made me wonder, but also the culture and tradition behind it, which I got to know later.

For example, the different types of religions. On almost every wall, on every car (or rickshaw) or even every shop you find little stickers or paintings of Jesus, Ganesh, Krishna and many other symbols of belief. It would take a while to get into this colossal aspect of religion in India - which includes so many different types of faith traditions like Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, and Sikhism.

“She was a stranger among strangers.”

Totally unprepared and lost in my thoughts, I was shocked as a cow slowly crossed our road. But this lonely cow was just the first of all the animals I saw on this trip to the centre: Dogs, cats, donkeys, goats and cows seemed to live without any problems in a certain harmony with humans. I even saw a boy sitting in a shady place next to a dangerous looking horned goat! However,

So in the end, if somebody asks me to say something about India, I must confess that I’m unable to because to the eyes of a foreigner, everything seems to be extraordinary and kind of unreal. It makes it hard to recognise the real life beyond this strangeness. India reminds me of an anthill. Although it appears chaotic, it still has a network of hidden systems that are not obvious to an outsider. But nevertheless, they do work!

Madurai:

The Pearl in an Oyster

By Umberto Bacchi Milan, Italy

Umberto Bacchi writes about his first impressions of Madurai. He finds a stark contrast between the cleanliness and orderliness of his hometown, the world’s fashion capital Milan, and the noise and dust of Madurai. Yet he says the vivid colours of Madurai and the courtesy and friendliness of its people are unmatched anywhere in the world!

E

ntering Madurai for the first time was quite shocking: I thought I had arrived in the most chaotic and messy place I had ever been. My first encounter with India was in fact, 138 km from Madurai, where my plane landed in the quiet countryside just out of Tiruchirapalli. Covering the distance to Madurai by car was quite a good and pleasant start. The view I had from the rear window was very relaxing: I drove past green vegetation of trees, coconut and mango plantations until just outside of Madurai.

Once in Madurai, however, the situation suddenly changed. Auto rickshaws, cars, motorcycles and every other kind of vehicle you can imagine were overtaking each other in every conceivable way. The streets of the city centre were crowded with people and surrounded by a curtain of dust, and the noisy blare of horns and traffic sounds were ringing my ears.

Moreover the differences between what

I found and what I had left behind in Italy were huge. I come from Milan, in the northern part of Italy. Milan is the business and fashion capital of Italy, where everything, according to Italian standards, is efficient, tidy and fast.

On my arrival, Madurai looked just the opposite.

My ideas on Madurai, however, changed within a couple of days, after I had made more direct and deeper contact with its people and their way of life. Madurai, in fact, in some ways is like an oyster: on the outside it is grey and wrinkled but, once you open it, you might find a pearl. However, once I got used to the noisy and chaotic surroundings, I began to appreciate how vivid and alive the city is and how kind its people are.

The first thing that struck me was the number of different colours in every corner of the city. The women’s saris,

A crowded and chaotic corner of Madurai

the statues in the temples, the blue painted horns of the cows, the yellow auto rickshaws—everything is so bright, especially when compared to foggy, grey Milan. The courtesy of the people made a deep impression on me. In Milan, and in most business cities in the West, people are always in a rush, too busy to meet strangers and sometimes even too engrossed in themselves to smile!

On the contrary, here in Madurai, everybody has a smile ready for you.

If, while walking along the street, your eyes meet someone else’s, you will immediately exchange a smile!

Moreover, if you ask anyone for help, most people will stop what they are doing to assist you, and on receiving your thanks, respond with the harmonious Indian shake of the head!

Prospective of Madurai’s traffic from a rickshaw

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Madurai Messenger Environment June 2011

Seeds of an Organic Revolution ‘Organic’ is sweeping the world. Organic products are better for you, safer for farmers and workers, and kinder on the environment. In support of the organic movement and sustainable development, Projects Abroad established a model organic farm in Tamil Nadu. Ingelise Jones spoke to the farm’s Project Manager Raisa Dawood and one passionate volunteer, Ashok Weiffenbach Carr, about how they are slowly planting the seeds of what will hopefully be a local organic revolution.

By Ingelise Jones, Melbourne, Australia

F

rom food to cosmetics, organic products are becoming more readily available and people everywhere are starting to make the switch. The organic movement begins with organic farming. Essentially, organic farming means growing crops naturally, not using any chemicals to control pests, but instead encouraging biodiversity of the natural environment, preserving water and energy, and producing safer, healthier food and crops.

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Aware of the many issues associated with industrial farming techniques, Projects Abroad decided to establish a model organic farm in the small village of Chinnupatti in Tamil Nadu, Southern India. Volunteers from all over the world come to work on the farm. The project’s message is both environmental and social. The idea behind it is to work alongside nature rather than against it. It’s about working together in a team and within a community.

Environmental conservation is one of Projects Abroad’s central themes and each of their development projects around the world links in to a community need for a mutually beneficial exchange between international volunteers and locals.

Work on the organic farm began in December 2010. The project aims to provide local farmers with an example of organic farming methods and benefits, as well as generating awareness within the community. Children are also at the heart of the project through an outreach programme that includes practical and promotional activities.

A local who works on the organic farm

Volunteers come to work on the model farm for a minimum of two weeks. It’s an opportunity to learn about organic farming and give something back to the local community.

Many volunteers are students studying something related to sustainable development, conservation or farming. Each new volunteer brings with them new knowledge and ideas helping to cultivate a platform for sharing information and experience.

The Model Farm’s infamous rice paddy

Field of Dreams

Under the dedicated leadership of Project Manager Raisa Dawood, Project Abroad’s eco- farm is not just a model for organic, it’s a field of dreams that is growing by the day. Raisa is passionate about the environment and eco farming. Commencing work for Projects Abroad at the start of 2010, she has been instrumental in bringing this bright idea to life. She is grateful for the opportunity to share her passion and knowledge, and hopes to lead by example. Together with Projects Abroad and her volunteers, she wants to help farmers however she can and ultimately make their lives easier.

Her interest in organic farming began with a desire for her family to eat healthy organic fruit and vegetables. In 2003, she began to transform her parents’ ten-acre farm into an organic farm.

The process took five years and a lot of hard work. It enabled her to learn and experience all aspects of the farm and of course understand the hurdles faced by farmers. She put herself through several agriculture related courses at a local college and soon developed a desire to be a voice for organic farming.

Completing one area at a time, the model farm has gradually grown. The total area covers 2.9 acres. Half of the farm is rice paddy fields, the other half is vegetables, planted under the shade of a coconut plantation and fruit trees.

Crops include lentils, gauva, mango, gooseberry and limes. There are also two cows, two calves, three goats, one bull, chickens and ducks. To maintain nitrogen in the soil, crops are planted alternately with ‘green crops’. For example, rice leaches nitrogen from the soil, so in between rice harvests, a green crop such as lentils are planted, which puts nitrogen back into the soil.

There are multiple benefits of going organic. No need for chemicals instantly reduces costs and also removes the health risks associated with chemical use. Water use also reduces and yields increase. Most importantly, crops are bigger and tastier.

Holy Cow

The organic process involves mulching, seed planting, application of vermicompost and organic fertilizer.

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The native Indian cow used widely in organic farming

Farmers can make their own organic fertilizer and pesticide. It seems only natural that the cow, revered by Hindus, would be the magic provider of these essential elements in Indian organic farming.

‘Panchakavya’ (PK) which means ‘mixture of five products’ is a natural pesticide made by mixing cow dung, urine, milk, curd and ghee. The concoction is allowed to ferment with banana, coconut water, jaggery (unrefined whole sugar cane) and yeast.

‘Jeevamritha’ (JM), which means ‘friend for life’, is a liquid manure mix of cow dung, lentils, jaggery and cow urine. It is used as a natural fertilizer to increase the micro organisms in the soil.

Depending on the size of a farm, the cost of using PK and JM is minimal.

Raisa says that one mature native cow will allow a farmer to cover 30 acres.

They also make and use vermicompost on the farm, an organic fertilizer made using worms. The earthworms eat

cow dung and organic food waste, and excrete manure that is rich in micronutrients.

Cultivating Knowledge Ashok Weiffenbach Carr is a volunteer and student from the UK who recently spent one month on the model farm.

He’s studying Development Geography at Bath Spa University and this Indian experience supports his course work.

Back home, he is also a volunteer for the Soil Association, the certifying body for organic products in the UK. One of his main interests is in the issues surrounding global food production and the relationship between developing countries and supposedly developed countries.

The project has given Ashok insight into the heart of organic farming in a practical sense, and an opportunity to speak to local farmers and academics.

He wanted to find out their perceptions

Madurai Messenger Environment June 2011

“Farmers don’t understand what they are using and what the risks are to them, their farm, their crop or the environment”

concerned about allergies experienced by local farmers.

Interestingly, this dentist, who also owns a farm, isn’t willing to take the risk anymore. Since Ashok interviewed him, he has committed to converting his farm to organic.

Volunteer Ashok Weiffenbach Carr at work on the model farm

of organic farming and identify what support is needed to help promote and increase organic farming in Tamil Nadu.

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When speaking to local farmers, Ashok found that they sometimes said what they thought were the right answers rather than their true thoughts.

Even though they understood the environmental and social benefits of organic farming, the underlying reason for their hesitance in converting to organic was cost. Like many farmers, when times are tough, the bottom line is usually financial. Farmers also wanted to see results or evidence of success before committing.

Ashok is well aware of the hurdles standing in the way of a local organic revolution. He was quick to point out that organic actually costs less and will provide better yields and ultimately more income to farmers. “It’s difficult to influence the change to organic because results aren’t immediate… they take time! But I do feel that things can be changed,” he said.

Chemical Conundrum During his many interviews, Ashok discovered that farmers don’t know a lot about biodiversity and are unaware of the risks of using chemicals. Insects are a big reason for pesticide use and so farmers often seek the quick solution: chemicals. However, farmers are often

not given adequate information about how to use the chemicals safely.

“Farmers don’t understand what they are using and what the risks are to them, their farm, their crop or the environment,” Ashok said. “When chemicals are used, you have to keep using more and more to maintain their effectiveness. Only 30 percent of the chemical is taken up by the crop, 70 per ent sits on the soil!” he added.

Chemicals are of course not only dangerous to handle. Over time, chemical use reduces yields, not to mention the increasing cost of having to maintain repeated use. Chemicals are also harmful to the environment, depleting the soil of nutrients, as well as upsetting biodiversity by killing insects and worms that play an important role in the cycle of nature.

The health hazards of chemicals are also serious. Many health professionals and organic supporters fear the health risks to farmers using the chemicals and also to consumers who eat chemically treated produce.

Like many health professionals, one local dentist that Ashok spoke to believes that there is a close link between pesticides and cancer. Though there has not yet been a comprehensive study to prove it, he believes there is lots of evidence out there. He is also

Ashok’s series of interviews confirmed his suspicions about the hurdles faced by farmers, but he was quietly confident that a combination of awareness raising, educating children and leading by example would gradually increase the project’s sphere of influence.

The Ripple Effect

The model farm must be working.

Raisa, Ashok and the other volunteers have seen a ripple effect as farmers in the area slowly but surely begin to understand the benefits of organic farming.

Local farmer Kumar hadn’t heard of organic farming before Projects Abroad came along. Amused at first, he gradually saw the benefits for himself and has now begun to believe in organic. Another local farmer, Anthony, has already allocated 15 of his 120 banana trees to the organic method as a trial. If successful, he will convert them all. He’s also using vermicompost and adopting different organic techniques in other areas of his farm. His sister-in-law has converted a small portion of her 2.5 acres of ‘moringai’ (drumsticks) to organic and plans to expand if it works.

Perhaps their biggest success story so far has been their first rice crop. Raisa describes the experience with absolute delight. Against local skepticism, they transformed an area full of thorns into a rice paddy. It was a long process but one that has surprised and impressed locals. “Curious locals would pass

the farm and peer through the fence everyday. They were fascinated by what we were doing. I overheard them saying things like ‘the white people’s rice is working!’ It made me so happy!”

“Children love to get involved in the practical side of the farm. You should see the joy on their faces when they hold a worm!” Raisa shares with excitement.

Indeed the locals could see and taste the difference in the rice. Each crop that is harvested on the farm is given away, not sold. It’s usually distributed among children or donated to a local orphanage.

Other educational activities include volunteer visits to schools and drama exercises. Engaging with the volunteers not only helps inspire children about organic farming, it gives them an opportunity to meet people from all over the world and experience a cultural exchange. Of course it’s equally exciting and rewarding for the volunteers.

Leading by example seems like the ideal way to help influence farmers. The Projects Abroad volunteers also regularly visit farmers markets to talk to farmers and give out information. They hold open days at the model farm to allow any interested farmers to come and see for themselves what’s happening. Raisa and her team are equally happy to help farmers however they can by finding ways of working together.

Raisa and the Projects Abroad team hope that if its popularity continues, perhaps similar projects can be established to help the organic movement grow even more. Perhaps this model farm will be the first of several in the area.

Nature’s Way “Curious locals... [were] saying things like ‘the white people’s rice is working!’ It made me so happy!”

An alternative method to organic is the ‘natural’ or ‘do nothing’ farming technique. In India, it is often referred to as ‘zero budget natural farming’. One of

its pioneers is Subash Palekar. It is similar to the well known natural farming technique pioneered by Masanobu Fukuoka, a Japanese scientist, farmer and philosopher.

‘Natural’ is actually a ‘do nothing’ method. Unlike chemical or even organic farming, there is no plowing, no fertilizing, no weeding and no pesticides. Behind this method is a philosophy that the human concept of growing crops is ego-centric. Ultimately, it is nature that grows crops, not people.

It requires less labour, doesn’t produce pollution and doesn’t use any fossil fuels. Yields using the natural method are similar to organic farming.

There are currently no large scale natural farms in Tamil Nadu, but many farmers still use these methods. Essentially, natural farming uses no chemicals and so they are actually organic, even if they are not officially recognised or labelled as such.

Go Organic To be organic in the marketplace, a product should be certified by an

Generation Organic

Projects Abroad also works with local schools to help spread the word about organic and provide children and volunteers with a unique experience. It is hoped that by educating the farmer’s children, the ripple effect will continue and eventually create waves in the generation of tomorrow.

The land for the model farm is leased from Maria Louis, one of the biggest land owners in Chinnupatti. He also runs an education trust and owns a local school. He is eager to give local children valuable knowledge about organic farming and hopes to expand the trust in the future. Children from 10 – 16 years of age spend time on the farm, helping with farm duties and learning how the farm works.

The Project’s Outreach Programme gives volunteers the opportunity to work with children

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Madurai Messenger Environment June 2011

The model farm’s make shift shed set idylically amongst the palm trees

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official authority. Certification requires several standards, usually governed at the national level and consistent with international standards. For the farming community, switching to organic from chemical is quite a process. A two year timeframe is given by organisations such as the Soil Association in the UK, but depending on the land and its previous uses, it can take up to seven years to be truly organic.

The State Government has set up local farmers markets around Tamil Nadu which each hold one stall for organic produce. Popularity for organic produce is greater in the cities than in villages, where education about organic and the means to spend more on produce, is limited.

To export organic crops out of Tamil Nadu and out of India, farms need to be certified. Many farmers who have switched to organic are finding it difficult to implement the steps needed for certification. Many traditional farmers are producing organic crops, but as they are not certified as ‘organic’ they don’t reap the benefits in the market. One NGO in Tamil Nadu, Arogyam Organics, is supporting the organic output of local small and marginal natural farmers through a loyalty and reputation scheme

rather than a multiple requirement certification.

Other organic organisations of note include the Organic Farming Association of India (OFAI). Set up by the Government in 2009, it aims to support and promote organic farming in India. They work to lobby the Indian government to officially adopt organic farming. The OFAI also help farmers to convert from chemical to organic methods, as well teach them how to market their organic produce.

its infancy at only six months old, the project’s potential for even greater success is promising and exciting.

Raisa and Ashok are clearly passionate about organic farming and the world in which they live. They are immensely proud of the model farm and its success so far, and they hope it’s the beginning of a quiet organic revolution in Tamil Nadu. But they each expressed an even greater hope… Hope for a new generation of environmentally aware children who want to live in a cleaner, healthier and ultimately happier world.

Watch it Grow

Get Dirty, Get Involved!

The organic movement is relatively new in India. Hopefully as it grows, more farmers using the chemical methods will convert to organic or adopt a combination of traditional and organic.

Of course awareness and education are most important and farmers need more support and information to make the change to organic. This support needs to come from national and state governments, as well as from NGOs and organisations like Project Abroad.

For Projects Abroad, success clearly speaks for itself. Leading by example and positive word of mouth is helping to influence local farmers and children around the Chinnupatti area. Still in

Interested in organic farming and conservation? Projects Abroad need volunteers!

Volunteers on the organic farm can expect a fun, rewarding and memorable experience... but should also be prepared for some hard work! Most importantly, you need perseverance, an ability to work well in a team and a positive attitude. No matter how short your stay, you will be making a difference!

For more information visit http://www.projects-abroad.org

Madurai Messenger Village Voices June 2011

Chinnalapatti: Weaving a Dream Malin Pohlmann visits Chinnalapatti village and is fascinated by the sights, sounds and smells of this tiny village, which boasts of a 500-year-old hand loom tradition.

With inputs from Sibonile Mathe, Umberto Bacchi, Monique Djarn, Ingelise Jones, Katharina Schneider, Kristina Wilshusen, Pooja B and Zinzi Boostra

By Malin Pohlmann Preetz, Germany

C

hinnalapatti village is an hour’s drive from Madurai in the direction of Dindigul. With over 23,000 inhabitants., this village feels more like a town.

Although it is a typical Indian village in many ways, Chinnalapatti is also unique. It is a hub for handcrafted textiles. Here you can see looming, weaving, dyeing and printing units.

Like the people of Mylampatti who we visited last month, the warmhearted people of Chinnalapatti also welcomed us affectionately. In contrast to Mylampatti, however, the men, women and children were calmer. They seemed used

The Children of Chinnalapatti

to meeting foreigners, and we were able to actually have intimate conversations with them instead of having our voices drowned by a din of screams.

We decided to meet a sample of people and to talk to them in small groups rather than a group interview with the whole village. We first visited a unit where men and women were dyeing saris. We were surprised to note that all of them continued working despite our presence. We met several textile workers, a 65-year-old woman, and several children and young adults who shared with us their dreams and concerns and even performed a dance!

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Madurai Messenger Village Voices June 2011

Workers dyeing cotton saris by hand

Place:

Chinnalapatti is a small village in Dindigul district, Tamil Nadu. It is 53 kilometres from Madurai and 10 km from Dindigul.

Population: 42

The village has a population of 23,353.

There are an equal number of males and females, but only nine percent of the population is under the age of six years.

Production and Labour:

Chinnalapatti is famous for its silk saris known as “Chinnalapattu” and for its sungudi cotton saris. According to the locals we spoke to, the hand loom tradition in their village is at least 500 years old. Handloom textiles are the main source of livelihood, followed by agriculture. There are 60-70 small textile units throughout the village that cover all processes from looming and weaving fabrics, to dyeing and printing designs.

The saris are sent to North India and various parts of South India. They are also exported to Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and South Africa. In response to contemporary trends in women’s fashion in India such as chudithars and salwar kameez, some units have also started to produce fabrics for these products.

People:

Our first stop was a dyeing unit which employs 15 people. We met the owner’s wife who told us about their work.

Dressed in a sari of shimmering yellow, orange, red, blue, green and purple,

she perfectly symbolises what her unit is doing. She also spoke to us about the business.

The unit dyes 500 to 1000 cotton saris every four days, depending on the order. She tells us, “Last month we

didn’t work.” Apparently the Assembly elections prevented them from working.

Generally though, their productivity hinges on the orders they receive.

The demand can vary on the price of the saris. The workers, however, are unaware of market trends and prices.

An enthusiastic young man works in his father’s cotton dyeing unit

All of the 15 employees are busy working. We are fascinated by two of the men. They place the saris between two wooden blocks to prevent the dye from seeping on to the prints. Their work is incredibly precise and fast.

The owner’s wife explains how they produce the special ‘tie-dye’ patterns by tying knots in the fabric. Tying knots, colouring and washing the fabrics is hard work, but it feels like a creative rather than a mechanical process.

Next, we meet a group of children who are excited to talk to us. All of them seem to speak fluent English. There are 12 schools in Chinnalapatti, and several children study in English medium schools in Chennai and other nearby cities. Every child we spoke to attends school. Cricket and watching TV are their main interests. Surprisingly, none of their parents work in the local dyeing units, but instead have their own small businesses or trades.

When the unit has an order to fill they have to work all day. They start at around 6 a.m. and usually wind up at 7 p.m; although it is not uncommon to continue working until 10.30 p.m.

We see men dyeing the fabrics without any protection. They don’t wear gloves, nor do they use any other protection.

We are concerned that the dyes are chemical and not natural dyes. After finishing their work they use bleach to get rid of the colour. But workers seem unaware of the health hazards of chemical dyes.

When we asked the children about their futures, none of them said that they want to stay in Chinnalapatti or work in the hand loom units. Instead, they would prefer to go to metros like Chennai or even abroad (where some of the parents live and work) to pursue higher studies or employment. Only Mani, 22, does sari printing. He wanted to become a lawyer but he couldn’t afford to go to the Law University, so he started to work here in his village.

However, we can’t help but notice that all the workers have a certain pride about what they do. They reply with great satisfaction: “Completing an order is always a good feeling!”

Prospects & Promise:

All of the children seemed to be happy and carefree. They want to leave the small world of Chinnalapatti and discover the world. They have aspirations to fulfill: they dream of becoming software engineers, doctors,

and Hemalatha, a 15-year old girl, wants to become a beautician. They seem to be open minded, cosmopolitan and in touch with the outside world as is evident by their familiarity with the famous New Zealand cricket player, Ben Wheeler, or celebrity singer, Michael Jackson.

Problems:

The economy of Chinnalapatti is mostly dependent on the textile industry. In fact many people have no source of income when there are no orders for saris.

Another factor is that machine-made mass produced saris are far cheaper than their hand crafted counterparts, not to mention the fluctuating cotton market which impacts prices. Like many rural artisans in India, hand loom weavers face an uncertain future.

Parting ways:

We enjoyed seeing the process of dyeing saris and talking to people. We especially loved seeing the amazingly bright long lengths of fabrics stretched out in the sun to dry.

To the people of Chinnalapatti, we thank you for sharing information about your lives and for your warmth and hospitality!

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Madurai Messenger Environment June 2011

Emus: Birds of a Different Feather Laila Alonso-Huarte visits an emu farm near Madurai and explores why emus, birds native to Australia, make such an attractive farming option.

By Laila Alonso-Huarte Geneva, Switzerland Some of the emus bred in Kumbarai

F

irst day in the journalism office: I’ve been told there’s only one story left to cover. “Great!” I thought.

“It’s about big chickens,” added one of the journalists. “Big chickens???” I couldn’t hide my surprise. On one hand, I expressed excitement saying that it was a brilliant idea and that I would be very pleased to cover the story. But on the other hand, so many questions arose in my mind. “Am I really going to write about some big chicken farm?! Is this some kind of a first day joke?”

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It wasn’t. Expecting to cover some genuinely appealing stories about the culturally fascinating country of India, I couldn’t hide my disappointment.

Already fed up with the chickens freely running all over on the Swiss Alps I couldn’t see what I would get out of this particular story and to whom it would actually appeal. But, as we say: “Don’t judge a book by its cover”.

That’s precisely what I learned during this interview.

In order to find out what was special about these apparently big chickens, called “emus”, we had to travel up to Kumbarai, a tiny village near Kodaikanal, amidst the beautiful green mountains of Tamil Nadu, where the biggest emu farm was situated.

The first feeling I had was surprise, mainly because of their height. These giant ostrich-like birds looked strange to me. I guess I had never assumed that they could be entirely dissimilar from the “big chickens” I had pictured in my ignorant little mind.

The first thing I noticed was that, if you got closer, the birds actually stare at you with a curious and inquisitive glance not unlike that of a human being!

This particular emu was observing me from every angle. I learned afterwards that these birds are well known for watching and following other animals and humans. After a quick walk around the netting, I realised that the place was full of birds, 160 to be precise. Now you might wonder how 160 emus, native birds of Australia, arrived in South India.

In 1998, K. Venkatesh, the owner of the farm travelled to Australia and returned with a pair of emus. The farm grew remarkably quickly because these birds lay numerous eggs every three days.

Thirteen years later, the number of birds has increased significantly, making it the most well-known and eminent emu farm in the area, and the largest in Tamil Nadu. As Emu farm pioneers in Tamil Nadu, business is brisk. They also want

to help people understand that emu farming is a good business opportunity for farmers in India.

Now why would someone have the innovative idea of raising emus? There are several reasons this choice. Firstly, farming these birds is rather easy. Emu birds predominantly eat a large variety of plants, so feeding them is relatively cheap compared to other types of farming in India. Moreover, the current market value of these birds is high and the demand is continually increasing making emu farming an attractive choice.

Emu birds reproduce for at least twenty years, laying between twenty and fifty eggs every season. They can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and

Another reason why these brownfeathered flightless birds are so attractive to farmers is that, one can get about 95 percent usable products from Emu birds.

are highly resistant to diseases. Another reason why these brown-feathered flightless birds are so attractive to farmers is that, one can get about 95 percent usable products from Emu birds. This includes their red meat (which is low in fat), oil (recognised for its nourishing qualities for the skin and treatment of many ailments), leather, feathers, skin, bones, nails and last but not least, their eggs.

Nowadays, Indian farmers are mostly interested in the eggs, so that they can start their own emu farms. Some of them also choose to buy baby emus, which can be sold for more than Rs.5000 each. Even though this “trading” business is growing, the farmers told me that the main purpose of raising emu birds is still medicinal. The Emu oil (removed from the fat) contains a pain-relieving oleic acid that can be effective in the treatment some diseases such as arthritis and some muscle or joint pain.

Emu eggs are incubated at the farm

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The agricultural sector is the most important economy of Tamil Nadu, employing 70 percent of the population. However, due to an increasing number of issues and challenges, the sector is declining. Farming techniques are still too haphazard, and farmers struggle to manage insect infestations and diseases that threaten crops and animals. Even the Tamil Nadu poultry industry, which contributes to 16 percent of the country’s total poultry exports, is confronted with diseases such as bird flu.

Emus, however, are immune to these diseases.

All these factors encourage farmers to increasingly diversify.

Emus offer an alternate way of farming, free from many of the usual problems faced by farmers. Though the Emu industry is still in its infancy, it is steadily growing. Since 1998, many new farms have been established in areas of Tamil Nadu and also in Hyderabad, Maharashtra, Pondicherry and Karnataka.

With huge growth potential, this industry is likely to become a bigger part of Tamil Nadu’s agricultural industry. Emu meat, although quite expensive, may well be the future choice of meat lovers and one day, be commonly served at our dinner tables.

Finally, despite all my initial thoughts, meeting the emus turned out to be genuinely enthralling. This illustrates one of the reasons why I find journalism so fascinating. When you get to discover something that you would never have expected to, you not only surprise the reader but also yourself.

The Emu stare

Madurai Messenger Books June 2011

The Search for Self Ingelise Jones reviews India Calling: An Intimate Portrait of a Nation’s Remaking, a book that has helped her begin to understand better the complexity of Indian culture and its people. In India Calling, this talented Indian-American writer shares his experience of returning to the homeland of his parents to discover a very different India. As he searches for his own identity, he witnesses a country evolving right before his eyes.

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A

s a child, visiting India was always an uncomfortable and bewildering experience for Anand Giridharadas, who was born and raised in the United States. For much of his life, he loathed his Indian roots and never understood the country his parents fled from soon after they were married. Even though he had Indian blood running through his veins, Giridharadas didn’t feel Indian. His family had bought into the American dream.

By Ingelise Jones Melbourne, Australia

While elements of Indian culture were infused into his American childhood, he always felt a sense of detachment.

Through his childhood eyes, he saw India as a country frozen in time. He had a simple differentiation in his mind between the Indian and American culture, but with no sense of the actual dualisms of culture within India itself.

Discovering a nation through grown up eyes, he is fascinated by an old country’s rebirth. His observations are insightful to say the least. With his eloquent writing style, he conjures vivid images of ordinary people who must navigate their way through a confusing place of cultural contradictions.

Amidst the evolution of a nation, he feels the restlessness in its people and sees a revolution brewing. Respect is declining.

The gap between the rich and the poor is widening as

capitalism encourages a new breed of materialistic Indians. There is an influx of Western ways and modernity, forcing the Indian culture to fluctuate between new and old. What lurks below the exciting surface pace is a complex country full of people struggling to find their place.

Giridharadas is both confronted and charmed by the people he befriends who enable him to see some of the many facets of the Indian liberation. Each in search of their own identities and destiny, these Indians are from different castes facing their own dilemmas.

Divided into themed chapters, you can feel the raw emotion of the characters as they dream of a different life. You feel their sense of honour, pride and the importance of family. You ride the waves they face as they learn the limitations of love and search for a sense of freedom.

Characters like Ravindra, for example, rises from nothing to reinvent himself and command his own destiny. Ravindra is the shoeless son of a porter who ate last at weddings and sat in the back rows at school. Today, he teaches at six colleges, is building a house and is the manager for the Indian skating team.

Anyone who has travelled on trains in India will instantly understand Giridharadas’ commentary on morality and the “paradoxes of daily life”. One minute, the law of the jungle applies and you will be pushed and shoved in a sea of anonymity. The next minute, those same anonymous people will make a space for you to sit down next to them and share their food with you.

Once you are connected, you are forever a part of their circle and universe.

Giridharadas also explores controversial topics like love. In India, love is very different from the romantic and sexual notions of the West. He observes how an outsider might see Indian love, “To the untrained eye, love is a series of absences.”

There is no visible affection, no romantic speech and no sexuality in the media. Yet, amidst a country steeped in tradition, he learns that there is a rebellion among youth. Though often hidden, in some circles, promiscuity is rampant. But so often, even these young Indians manage to reconcile their desires and ultimately live in the old culture. Love is, of course, at the heart of every Indian family. This family love is binding. It defines the moral codes and boundaries within which Indians must live.

India Calling is a journey not just through a country rapidly changing. It is also Giridharadas’ personal journey within himself. Confronted with a very different India to that of his childhood imaginings, he must explore inside his own heart to determine his identity and find his own sense of belonging.

He learns that he has the power to influence his own fate or ‘kismat’, and in searching for his future, he discovers his past.

With such eloquent and vivid writing, India Calling was a delight to read and the experience was certainly enhanced by my presence in the country. It feels as though these characters are not dissimilar to some of the people I have met here in India. Most importantly, Giridharadas has helped me understand the culture a little better and immerse me more deeply into my own fascination with India.

“Everywhere I went, I saw the layers of humiliation and repression, the culture of masters and servants, under siege.

It was the unintended consequence of degradation: so much energy, passion and talent had been locked in the Indian tiers and shaken over and over again by want; the impossibility of rising had only intensified the hunger to rise. And now the society had begun to feel like an aluminum can on the verge of explosion.”

Anand Giridharadas is a columnist for the New York Times and the International Herald Tribune.

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Madurai Messenger Weekend Wander June 2011

Amazing Amsterdam Zinzi Boonstra, a long-time resident of Amsterdam, says that it is her favorite city. She offers interesting glimpses into various facets of Amsterdam and hopes that visitors to this beautiful city enjoy it as much as she does.

By Zinzi Boonstra Amsterdam, The Netherlands

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The old prison converted into a café called: ‘de Waag’

A Shopper’s Dream The best shopping area in Amsterdam is De negen straatjes, even though guidebooks and internet sites will tell you to go to the Kalverstraat (which is a busy, mainstream area). The ‘nine streets’ are packed with vintage shops, galleries, cafes and couture. But beware, the streets are very narrow which can make biking dangerous, whether you’re on foot or on wheels! These streets are connected by the most prominent canals of the city where you can see the mansions of seventeenth century merchants which today are mainly inhabited by the wealthier people of Amsterdam. This combination of authentic architecture and a charming variety of shops offers something for everyone.

Wandering and window shopping around here will definitely give you a good taste of Amsterdam culture. When your feet finally start to hurt and your wallet weighs considerably less than it

The attractive-looking snack windows of the Febo

did in the morning, you can venture into one of our classic ‘brown’ cafés. They are known as ‘brown’ because of their shabby but charming, authentic ‘old Amsterdam’ interiors. The ambiance is warm and cozy, perfect for a white-beer in the summer or a hot chocolate any other time of the year.

A Photographer’s Paradise

If you like photography, you must visit Foam, the museum of photography that showcases the works of many famous (and not so famous) photographers.

Foam has built up an exchange platform for established and aspiring artists as well as admirers to share art and discuss collections. This museum is relatively small, usually with three or four different exhibitions. The art is not only visible through glass windows, you can also visit Foam’s website to buy photographs or their internationally distributed magazines. Once you’ve seen enough, you can enjoy an ecolemonade or a cup of tea accompanied

by a hearty multi-grain sandwich in their lovely cellar café.

Artis

It may sound a bit cheesy or like a typical ‘family-thing’ to do, but you should visit the zoo. The Amsterdam zoo is called ‘Artis’ and is located in the middle of the city. It houses 900 species and a range of animals from the smallest insects to the enormous elephants. Apart from these, the zoo also provides information relating to space and the history of nature, which is interesting for both kids and grownups. The zoo is a nice place to just wander around and have a picnic or see a nature film. You could easily fill a day here but you could also just pop in for a quick visit (though the entrance fee might convince you to stay longer to get the most out of your visit). The history of the zoo is also interesting as it was first established as a private garden for the wealthy citizens of Amsterdam. It was also a hiding place for Jews during the World War II.

The giant chessboard

Slow is Beautiful

If you go to Amsterdam during summer (which is advisable), you might find yourself wandering through the streets gazing into open windows, maybe catching a glimpse of a family stuffing their car to go to the beach, or hearing some distant music and wondering where all the people have gone in this beautiful weather. The answer: The Vondelpark. This is the biggest park in Amsterdam located right in the middle of the city. Most central neighborhoods have their own entrance to this park, which is like a magnet to all of us. You’ll find shallow pools for kids to splash around in, people walking their dogs, some showing off their skating skills, fountains, big lawns filled with people socialising, and enjoying the sun, lots of music and of course, food. There are a handful of café’s with terraces where you can have a nice long lasting drink.

The park is located very near to all the sights and museums. So, whenever you need some time to sit down and relax, this is the place to go. Free concerts are given at the open-air theatre and the film museum located right at the border of the park, which has also an ever busy terrace. There are two hostels close to the park, Stayokay hotel and the Flying Pig hostel. The Stayokay is very clean and welcoming, and suitable for families, whereas the flying pig is more youthoriented with their own ‘smoke-room’.

Chess on the Square

On the Max Euwe square, which is very near the Paradiso, you can play a giant game of chess. Anyone who fancies a game can play on the open-air chessboard. Created in July 1996, it was originally a student’s idea to make the city look nicer and to encourage people to socialise. Ever since, a game of chess is played daily by the same group of people, and is watched from the terraces or through restaurant windows by chess fans and tourists. On the same square, you can find the Amsterdam Hard rock Cafe and the Holland Casino.

Going Dutch

There is no real definition for Dutch food, especially since Amsterdam has people of 177 nationalities—the highest anywhere in the world. You can find a whole range of restaurants and food from all parts of the world although classic Dutch is hard to find. Some of

the things that we like to eat are fresh herring, Dutch pancakes and French fries with loads of mayonnaise.

If you are looking for typical Dutch fast-food, you can find this in one of the snack shops from the chain Febo (at 22 different points in Amsterdam).

Here you can find something called a ‘Kroket’, one of Holland’s favorite snacks; it is a thick gravy or ragout that is covered in bread crumbs and then deep-fried. The interesting and funny thing about Febo is that you can get the snacks from behind the windows of a vending machine after putting some money in the slots. They also sell food made to order, but you should try the food from behind the windows to get the full effect (it’s a famous concept in Amsterdam!).

Leidseplein (Leidsesquare): A Night life hub

This is the most popular area for nightlife. You will find all kinds of restaurants, bars and discos around this terrace-filled square. Your night out could begin in one of the many restaurants. You’ll be able to find anything you like including steak houses and various take-away Asian places, but also some higher class restaurants with good fusion food.

When you finish dinner, you can make your way to the pubs or cafés and later you could visit one of the clubs. Some of the names you can look for are: the Paradiso, the Melkweg, the Sugar factory, the Club Up and the Jimmy Woo. You would be well advised to avoid the two main tourist streets (1e and 2e Leidsedwarsstraat) as the bars here are mediocre, and full of drunk people and lost tourists.

Eighteen meets Eighty!

Fancy a fun carefree night out? The Paradiso is the place for you. Everyone

is welcome here. Whether you’re 18 or 80, it doesn’t matter what you look like or how you dance or who you like. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, there are club nights where students hang out and dance. On the weekends, there are big parties and it’s usually busy. All through the week there are concerts by famous musicians and bands, and also by up and coming artists. The Paradiso is known for discovering new talent.

The disco is located in an old church that has been kept in its original state.

There are balconies around the main hall and striking stained-glass windows behind the main stage. It helps create a wonderful atmosphere that adds to the amazing feeling that a good concert can give you.

The red light district

Commercial sex is legal in Holland, so it’s no wonder that Amsterdam’s red light district attracts a lot of tourists.

You won’t be able to ignore it, but I do have to warn you that isn’t classy, at all. .Picture a sea of windows full of scantily clad unhappy girls. Many of them have been brought to Amsterdam illegally through human trafficking and forced into sex work. This gives the whole area a sad feeling unless you’re looking for what these girls have to offer. If you’re tired of drunken obnoxious English tourists and needy men creeping around in the neon lit alleyways, you can go to the Nieuwmarkt, where Amsterdam’s China-town begins.

During the day, there is a fresh biological food market here and lots of Chinese supermarkets. In the evening, you can enjoy a drink in the old medieval prison or in one of the many cafés around the square. From here, you can walk to the Waterlooplein, a big square where all kinds of vintage clothing, footwear and furniture are sold.

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Madurai Messenger Films June 2011

Lagaan: A Film for all Seasons On April 2nd 2011, the Indian cricket team won the World Cup against Sri Lanka.

The country experienced a fast and festive jubilation, with Indians everywhere celebrating the victory. Cricket is India’s national sport, so it makes sense that it would be the main subject of a movie. Elisa Cohen reviews Laagan.

By Elisa Cohen, Les Ulis, France

Lagaan: Once Upon A Time

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Such was the case of Lagaan (2001), a movie directed by Ashutosh Gowariker.

The movie was a hit at both national and international box offices and was nominated for the ‘Best Foreign Language Film’ at the Academy Awards in 2002. One needs to be attentive while watching the movie.

Set in 1893, it tells the story of Champaner’s inhabitants, a small village in central India. The British Captain Andrew Russell (played by Paul Blackthorne) has doubled the land taxes, known as‘lagaan’, but villagers are not able to pay them as the monsoon arrive. So, the Captain proposed a deal to a young villager named Bhuvan (played by Aamir Khan), with whom he had an agreement. If Bhuvan won a cricket match against the British team, the Captain promised to stop asking for taxes for three years. But if he loses, the taxes will be tripled. Bhuvan accepts the deal, and the movie unfolds around this famous match which must take place within three months after the deal was made.

More than just cricket

However, this movie is not about a simple battle of cricket between English and Indian people. British people are not criticized in the movie in any way.

In fact, the director acknowledges that English people keep their promises and play fair games.

This movie is also about a veritable fight against some injustices of the caste system, of family pressures and racism. Moreover, the morality of this movie is well expressed by the famous expression, “When we want, we can!”

Indeed, it is a movie which reminds us that ‘Unity is Strength’, and it is necessary to fight for it. In addition to this, it also reminds us to defend our ideas. We shouldn’t just wait for a result to occur without taking part in their creation.

gets too close, it can become negative because they are not exposed to different people outside their community. This can lead to being closed minded and even reach a point where they become almost racist and narrow minded to other cultures. The movie points this out through characters from different social origins who play together in a team for a common goal: defeating the British cricket team. And, by this, winning the right to suppress the lagaan.

Of course, this film is also about a love story, like most of the Bollywood movies. Most Indians live in close communities and when the community

How could the strength of overcoming differences and working together be better represented than by a cricket game!!

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