November - 2011 by Projects Abroad

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November 2011

Volume 2, Issue 24 Sponsored by:

All in the Family: Father-Daughter Journalists P. Krishnaswamy and Priya Bala

Editor Dr. Nandini Murali

Contents

November 2011 | Issue No. 24

EDITOR’S CORNER

Of Simian Bondage

Media Relations Officer Ezhil Elango Journalism Supervisor B. Pooja Coordinator J. Venkatesh

EDITOR’S CORNER

Of Simian Bondage COVER STORY

02 Newsprint in their Veins 06 Eat, Write, Live

see troupes of chattering monkeys of all sizes, shapes, and ages before me. Many of them sit in cozy groups, watching the world go by as they groom each other … The more adventurous ones swing from the branches with an ease that

makes human acrobats clumsy…. One cheeky monkey even demands that I part with my duppatta and tugs at it… I meekly yield… and he saunters away with his catch until my friend uses counter threats to retrieve the duppatta…

YOUNG ACHIEVER Technical Support T. Jesuraja Reporters and Designers Adam Al Ghafri Anne-Marij De Koning

marveling at how human they are. Or how ape-like we humans are! Most of the

Madurai Magic

monkeys are people-friendly. One of them even drinks water from a water bottle

HERITAGE

12 Chittanavasal Jain Caves:Truth is Beauty:

Beauty, Truth

Mathew Penticost

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Lisette Wouters Leonie Rodenbuecher Lea Schunk

15 16

Five minutes to like Madurai

20 Susheela Srinivasan: To Mam, With Love YOUTH

22 I too have a dream... editor@maduraimessenger.org

TRIBUTE

24 A Musical Odyssey

MADURAI MESSENGER No. 17, T.P.K Road Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269

held out to them! I am amused by their capers, their bonhomie and merrymaking! I feel privileged that the monkeys let me gaze at them despite my outsider status.

baby monkey. The baby monkey has been mauled by a dog and one side of its face

Tragically Beautiful?

Contact:

The baby monkeys are suspended upside down on trees and snatch the biscuits

Arranged Marriages: Where love Follows Marriage

ORDINARY PEOPLE - EXTRAODINARY LIVES Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd.,

clamber onto another man and perch on his shoulders as he feeds them biscuits!

A little distance away, I see an adult female monkey, obviously a mother, with its

19 Madurai - Beautifully Tragic or

Adam Al Ghafri

held by a man who has been a friend of the monkeys. Several of them even

SOCIETY

FIRST IMPRESSIONS Cover Picture

I am in a simian paradise. I enjoy just watching and photographing monkeys;

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Anna-Dora Maron Ariane Lecuyer 2

08 Satish Suman Behara: Designer Dreams

almost ripped off. Its ears are gouged out and hang loose suspended by thin flesh. The monkey is just a few weeks old. It looks fragile and the attack has made it most vulnerable. The baby monkey hobbles towards it mother and its arms encircle her. The mother monkey engulfs her child in a protective embrace. I see a look of anguish on the adult monkey’s face as she examines the wounds. The baby monkey seems to have surrendered and is ready to let go…., It is hard for the adult monkey to do so and she explores ways and means to help her little one… not unlike human mothers…. The baby monkey dissolves in its mother’s sanctuary-like body… The adult monkey’s arm ever so gently holds her child, sorrow and loss etching lines of grief on her face…

CULTURE

26 The Festival of Dolls FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Spellbound DISTANT LANDS

30 Muscat Musings VILLAGE VOICES

32 Thirumangalam: A Rural Idyll FILM

35 Dor: of Love and Redemption FIRST IMPRESSIONS

36 A City of Differences

Dr. nandini murali Editor

Madurai Messenger Cover Story November 2011

Newsprint in their Veins Adam Al Ghafri and Anne-Marij de Koning meet veteran journalist P. Krishnaswamy and his talented journalist-daughter Priya Bala at their Madurai home. Inspired by their commitment and zeal, they discover that for this father-daughter combo, journalism is a passion and not just a profession. By Adam Al Ghafri Muscat

“I remember them telling me they only took me on board because of how bad my English was! Whenever they were bored or in a bad mood, they would call me just to have a good laugh,” Krishnaswamy chuckles. Yet despite his tongue-in-cheek take, he concedes that it was at that time he found his true calling in journalism. After improving his English and moving up in the newspaper hierarchy, Krishnaswamy worked as a features writer in several other newspapers in Sri Lanka such as the Times of Sri Lanka and the Sunday Times. Much to his amazement, he got the opportunity to work for the Daily Mirror in London. Originally, they only offered him an internship for three months. But being persistent, he insisted on working as a reporter and ended up working for the newspaper for two and a half years! By the time he quit, he had risen to the position of a news editor, an amazing achievement for an expatriate journalist at that time. Another publication he worked for was Die Welt in Germany, where he says he was only involved in “production activities.” His most exciting time as a journalist, however, was years after he had left Germany. He was in Tel Aviv, Israel, attending a six-month course at the Afro Asian Institute. He covered the Israel-Lebanon war (1981), truly being on the edge of history in the making. Being a politically sensitive period, he met some very intelligent people— holocaust survivors, economists and social thinkers in the emerging state. He fondly looks back at this as the most interesting time in his career.

P.Krishnaswamy sharing his wisdom

eeting senior journalist P. Krishnaswamy, 79, Chief Sub Editor, Indian Express, Madurai, and his independent journalist daughter Priya Bala, is exciting. P. Krishnaswamy, with his six decades of journalism, has travelled all over the world and has worked in London, Tel Aviv and Berlin as a journalist. His daughter Priya Bala, based in Bengaluru, is a globe trotting food and travel writer.

Full Circle For Krishnaswamy, life has come full circle. From India, Sri Lanka, England, Germany, Israel, and now back to India, Krishnaswamy has worked in several places that journalists in those days could only dream of. While his personal story begins in Sivagangai district in Tamil Nadu in 1932, his professional beginnings

was in Sri Lanka. Krishnaswamy’s father O.P. Ponniah migrated to Ceylon (as Sri Lanka was then known) in 1935. At the age of 17, young Krishnaswamy stumbled upon an advertisement in the local newspaper for English speaking Indians to be recruited as trainee journalists for the Modern Times of Sri Lanka. Krishnaswamy applied and was shocked to get the job.

With his experience in global journalism, what are the similarities and differences in journalism as it is practiced across the globe? He recalls that when he was working in London and Berlin in the 1960s, they were very advanced. It took about 40 or 50 years for us [in India] to do what they were doing then.”

An Eye for Stories Krishnaswamy has also traveled to Singapore, Malaysia, China and Japan.

Priya Bala with her proud father

When I asked him whether he was working there or just visiting as a tourist, his response was unexpected yet inspirational. “When you are a journalist, wherever you go you become detached. Your professional binding is always there, you are always looking for a story where ever you are.” These are clearly the words of a man who walks, talks, acts, thinks and breathes like a journalist because that is what he has always been. At 79, the young at heart Krishnaswamy is Chief Sub-Editor for the Indian Express. “There are still ups and downs, but I enjoy every minute of my work,” he says with a smile.

Trailing a story One of his most memorable experiences as a journalist was whilst he was with the Daily Mirror in Colombo. This story truly shows the confidence and integrity of a true journalist. The then Vice President of India, Dr. S. Radhakrishnan, was on an official state visit to Sri Lanka. A journalist from one of the rival papers, The Daily News, after a brief meeting with him, wrote a lengthy article as if he had had a full-fledged interview. The day after the article was published, Krishnaswamy’s editor called him and told him to read the paper. “I found nothing of earth shattering importance,” he recalls. The editor,

however, had something else in mind. He censured him about how he had been just sitting around doing nothing while the other journalist was able to get an interview. This deeply affected Krishnaswamy. “I was so irritated and angered,” he recalls. Irked at being pulled up by his boss, Krishnaswamy went to the Indian High Commissioner’s residence where the vice president was staying, although he knew that the vice president was leaving for Jaffna that morning. Anxious to get an interview, he told the Secretary to the High Commissioner that he wanted to meet the Vice President. The secretary rebuffed him and told him that the Vice President was not his attendant who could be met whenever he wanted.

A Battle of Wits While the argument was on, the High Commissioner and the Sri Lankan minister came into the room. Curious, the High Commissioner asked what the problem was. The Secretary explained who Krishnaswamy was and the reason he was there. The High Commissioner assured him that the Vice President would be arriving any minute. When the Vice President arrived, there was still some commotion. He asked what the problem was and when the High Commissioner explained

Madurai Messenger Cover Story November 2011

Adam Al Ghafri enchanted by Krishnaswamy’s words

Krishnaswamy’s situation, the anxious Krishnaswamy interceded, “Sir, I would like just a three-minute interview with you.” His request, however, was not granted as the Vice President said it was not possible since he had to leave to Jaffna. Krishnaswamy, however, was not about to give up. Just as the Vice President was about to enter his car, he asked his assistant if Krishnaswamy could join him to the airport. “I think he saw that I was about to cry,” Krishnaswamy recalls joyfully. “He was such a great man. If he said, ‘I want to take him,’ no one would object, but he still had the decency to ask permission. It was from people like him where I learned what humility is.” So they got into the car, but throughout the drive it was Dr Radhakrishnan who was interviewing him! By the time they got to the airport, Krishnaswamy had no information to write an article! “He said to me, ‘Ok, now that we’ve had a long chat, are you satisfied?’ But I said, “No, Sir, you had a long chat with me!” Krishnaswamy recalls with a laugh. Coming to terms with the fact that he had not been able to get

a an interesting story despite all his attempts, Krishnaswamy apologized to Dr Radhakrishnan for wasting his time, and was prepared to leave. Suddenly, Dr Radhakrishnan asked his assistant, “Do you think we could take him on the flight to Jaffna?”

An Unforgettable Experience Krishnaswamy was overwhelmed. According to him, the interview on the flight was one of the most interesting in his 62 years of journalism. “I couldn’t take down notes because every minute was so interesting.” After they had touched down, the Vice President made sure that Krishnaswamy got somewhere where he could take a train or a bus. As soon as he had left, Krishnaswamy called his editor, who was worried where he was. Krishnaswamy remembers his editor saying, “How did you get there? There are people here saying that you committed suicide because I scolded you in the morning!” Laughing, he replied “No. Because you scolded me, I had a good drive with the vice president and now I’m here.” Then and now, when it comes to chasing a story, nothing deters Krishnaswamy.

Krishnaswamy wrote his article and dictated it over the phone to the sub-editor of the newspaper. He took the night train back to Colombo. The next day his story was headlined— “Ominous clouds over the India-China Border – From our correspondent on board an Indian Air Force aircraft.” “I will always remember that, and that it is something my children and grandchildren will also be proud of.”

Riding a Tiger

The passionate father and daughter

“I like to feel the pulse of people, getting to know new people, and meeting new challenges… unlike other professions, where it is routine, you do the same thing again and again, here you meet new people, new experiences, and challenges.” Clearly this is a man that cannot get enough action. The adrenaline he seems to get from the profession is a high I believe we all pursue to experience and even in his soft whispery voice; you can still hear the enthusiasm in his words.

“My editor told me that journalism is like riding a tiger. Once you’re on it, you can never leave, and even if you want to leave it, no one will give you a job! The only salvation is sticking as a journalist,” says Krishnaswamy on why he has been a journalist for so long.

Krishnaswamy is a man of not only experience, but also wisdom. I asked him how much of the profession has changed in his time, whether the essence of journalism had stayed the same and where he sees the profession ten years from now.

Follow your Dream

“Everything has changed. Technology has changed, and attitudes have changed,” he recalls with a sigh. In the early years of his career, things were harder to get a hold of. It took three hours to contact the office by phone, in that time he could take a bus to the office and now “everything is at our fingertips.” He continues says, with a hint of disappointment, how the entire

“The passion becomes the blood and wings of a good journalist”, he says with a smile. He is truly inspiring for everyone wanting to follow their dreams as he proves that one can find what one loves without the passion dimming over the years. I continued to inquire why he found the profession to be his true calling.

nature of some areas of journalism has changed today. In his time, there was no such thing as inappropriate “investigative journalism” such as bugging and phone tapping. Today, however, he concedes that things have become more vindictive. He cites the recent scandal involving News of the World and Rupert Murdoch, but at the same time states that there are still a lot of very talented and hardhitting journalists today who make effective and efficient use of the new technologies.

fully know economics, and people who write about economics would not fully know about politics. They’ve become compartmentalized.” Although he says this, he believes that for the audience, their horizons have expanded due to the inflation of technology. “There are more people reading news papers, listening to news, we are more conscious of what is happening now.” This is why he has hope for the future of the profession and sees the advancement of technology as a great benefit, although its misuse is an obvious risk.

“Now I think life is very easy for a journalist,” says Krishnaswamy. He believes that although the bar has been raised when it comes to the quality of journalism, it does not compensate for the rapid growth of technology. As he puts it, “Now a days all you have to do is search something on Google!”

I was intrigued to find out what were the challenges Krishnaswamy faced in all his years as a journalist. He replied, “There were many instances where I went missing for a long time. My family didn’t know where I was. Such instances were very common in those days.” Although hinting at the unpredictable and risky nature of his profession he elaborates, “When you overcome the challenges, it’s euphoric. It’s a sense of ecstasy, being able to meet such challenges and come out of it.”

The Most Enchanting Profession Is the profession heading in a clear direction or is the path rather unclear? He replies, “I think there is a clear path now from what it was then. People are becoming specialists in fields, people who write about politics, would not

What does journalism mean to him? He replied in a heartbeat, “The most enchanting profession.”

Madurai Messenger Cover Story November 2011

Eat, Write, Live There’s more to Priya Bala than being the inheritor of her father’s journalistic legacy. The articulate and affable Priya Bala, after twenty years of mainstream journalism, has today carved a niche for herself as a well-known food and travel writer, says Anne-Marij de Koning. By Anne-Marij de Koning

Encouraged by one of her editors, she began to write reviews about restaurants for the Mumbai Times. She then moved to Bengaluru (where she now lives and works) and established herself as a well-known food writer. Last year she quit full time journalism and switched over to freelance journalism and writing. She has just completed her cookbook that will be published shortly. She also writes for the electronic media, especially food blogs and creates mobile applications on food that rates restaurants and eat outs that users can download on their mobiles and food reviews for Just Eat, one of the biggest Indian websites from which you can order food, make reservations and read reviews about restaurants.

Netherlands

“I was always a confident cook, interested in food.” “I drifted into food because I love food. I like cooking and reading about food, talking about food and discussing food more than most things in life. That is really my career now. I’m more like a food writer than a general journalist.”

An Eclectic Foodie

Food writing takes her to several destinations across the globe in search of global cuisines. Widely traveled, Priya Bala recently visited Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Morocco, “where the food was of course lovely,” she says. What impresses her most about these places is that they preserve their culture and their food. She admits that she always feels a bit depressed when she comes back to India after these trips.

Anne Marij trying to keep up with Priya’s radiating enthusiasm

. Krishnaswamy is not the only one in his family who is passionate about journalism. His two daughters Padmini Sivarajah and Priya Bala are also journalists. Priya Bala immediately clarifies that her father did not encourage them to become journalists. “He thought it wasn’t a woman’s profession, because he sees journalism as a profession where you have to chase stories,” she laughs.

A Genetic Legacy She, however, admits that she grew up in an atmosphere where she imbibed journalism. Thanks to her father she had the chance to meet several interesting people during her childhood. “From my father I got the love of words and the

love for communicating and awareness of current affairs.” As children, she and her siblings were familiar with Indian and world affairs, because her father was a commentator there and he used to read it aloud at home every week. As children they were encouraged to read, observe and question. Besides there were plenty of good books available that fostered a love for reading.” I got the love for food from my mother, who was a really good cook,” she adds. A graduate in Economics, Priya Bala started her career as a copy editor with The Indian Express in Madurai. She then moved to Mumbai to work for The Independent, and later when this newspaper shut down, shifted to the Mumbai Times where she worked for ten years. It was here that she discovered her interest in food journalism.

“A place like Madurai has so much going; though we don’t do enough to keep the culture and the heritage. We are very apathetic. And this is something that bothers me.” When I ask her which country serves the best food, she spontaneously replies, “Thai food. Thailand is the best place for food.” In Madurai, she recommends Vasantham for their “great idlis and dosas.” Yet her most memorable moment as a journalist doesn’t have anything to do with food writing. As a young journalist she met the well-known French author Dominique Lapierre, who had then just launched his latest book Five Past Midnight. “He had a lot of interactions with the press who hadn’t read the latest book as also any of his previous books.” She, however, had read most of his books, including the latest. “I had the most involved and long conversation because I read all his books when I was younger. So he gave me a signed copy of his book!”

Priya Bala with fire in her eyes

“It’s the fact that every day will be different. You meet so many different people, even in the case of food writing. I have met some fantastic authors, musicians, artists, and some amazing chefs and travelers.”

Why does journalism fascinate her? “It’s the fact that every day will be different. You meet so many different people, even in the case of food writing. I have met some fantastic authors, musicians, artists, and some amazing chefs and travelers.” Although she really enjoys being a food journalist, she dreams of starting cookery school to keep home food traditions alive.

A Shared Legacy P. Krishnaswamy and Priya Bala represent two different facets of journalism. The former about chasing stories and the latter about the gastronomic delights of food journalism. Yet in this unique family the two strands weave into a colourful tapestry of a shared profession, woven with the motif that journalism is all about seeing the world with a unique vision and finding your voice to tell your stories that ring true for your readers because they are true for you.

Madurai Messenger Young Achiever November 2011

Satish Suman Behara:

“If you go to the market nowadays, you will mostly find only cheap replicas,” says Satish. Satish does not think these toys should be used by children. Instead they need to be given toys made of natural products because it will integrate the sensory channels such as taste, smell and feelings,” Satish explains.

Designer Dreams Satish Suman Behara is a talented product designer. The young designer from Rourkela, Orissa, works with rural artisans to develop innovative product designs and revival of traditional crafts. His dream project is setting up a School of Design that would offer a sevenyear course for students who have completed Class 10.

Satish and Praveen are working hard on having the toys ready by Christmas, so that it can make ideal gifts for children. Even though the toys will be much more expensive than cheap plastic products, Satish and Praveen have agreed to keep costs low. “We want it to be affordable,” he says.

Simple is Beautiful Smart notebook and a traditional clay toy made of natural fabrics. Beautiful handmade boxes made of natural fabrics. All of the are designed by Satish.

According to Satish, there is no written format on how to be a good designer. But he does have some guidelines. Simplicity is the essence.

By Anna-Dora Maron 8

“A good designer can think very complicated, but always makes things very simple. He or she is functional, aesthetic and should be able to create something visually appealing that one feels like picking up,” he explains. It is obvious that Satish practices what he talks about. At Kiruku Design Studio, there are several beautiful handmade boxes and pencil holders made of natural fabrics.

Copenhagen, Denmark

“ took classes at the DJ Academy of Design, Coimbatore, and I slowly started developing an interest in designing,” says Satish Behara, 26, Design Manager, Kiruku Design Studio, Madurai. Satish was inspired by the creative space and freedom in the field of design. He discovered that he could mix together his interest in animation and 3D. Despite his passion for design, the path was far from easy. What made it particularly difficult was that every member of his family, except his mother was an engineer. “My brother and sister motivated me. They convinced my parents that designing was good for me.” He soon met artist Praveen Kumar Pouraj, (his creative partner in Kiruku Design Studio), which was a step forward. “We met through a friend,” Satish says. “We started talking about our common interest in designing and our ideas about it. One thing led to the other and we started talking about doing something with our ideas.”

Out of the Box Thinker Soon Satish started working with Praveen in the newly opened Kiruku Design studio. Kiruku means ‘sketchy’ and ‘crazy’ in Tamil. “Both Praveen and I have the same crazy ideas, where you really have to think outside the box,” Satish explains. “The thoughts can be both unconscious and subconscious.” Satish

Satish Suman Behera is a great inspiration. Not only is he an excellent designer, but he also works with rural people to develop innovative value added artisanal products.

uses the knowledge of tradtional crafts as inspiration for the Kiruku Design Studio. He took a course in college where he was supposed to document old crafts. “I wanted to do it very well, so I started studying a lot about the different old crafts,” Satish says. “I found that there were lots of opportunites. That was the inspiration for the work I now do at the Kiruku Design Studio.”

Natural is Beautiful Nature is what inspires Satish . He loves to design things from natural fabrics. Lately, Satish has been working on designing traditional toys like clay toys and toys made of wood. When he came to Madurai two years ago, he was fascinated by the idea of making these traditional toys.

“I have a clear idea of all aspects of the project;” Satish says. “After I have done this, I study the history behind it, how it started and what the future of it might be.” Satish’s strengths are not only his design skills but also his insights into the philosophy of creativity and the history of design. As the design manager in Kiruku Design Studio, he is also responsible for choosing promising new designers who will work for Kiruku as product designers.

Madurai Messenger Young Achiever November 2011

Madurai Magic

“Design is a part of me,” Satish says. “It’s a way of living. I have to design everything in my life to get satisfied with myself.”

Lisette Wouters slips into Madurai and discovers that despite the heat and the chaotic traffic, it is easy to fall in love with Madurai. So well adapted is the Dutch volunteer that she eats with her hands and negotiates road crossings—like a Maduraiite!

“It’s important that our designers want to do something to keep the designing alive,” Satish says.

By Lisette Wouters, Netherlands.

Bonding with Rural People One of the things that Satish puts most effort in is in working with the rural people. He has been working with them since the past two years.

“I’m from a small town Rourkela in Orissa, and I was never fascinated by big cities,” Satish says. One of the things he does not like about the big cities is the hectic pace and the business like approach to life and living. He thinks people in villages are nicer and more patient. The field of design is changing, and Satish really feels the changes when he comes from the big cities to work with people in villages.

“There is a lot of scope in designing when I work with people in the villages,” Satish says. “I get a job satisfaction at the end of my day when I am working with them.”

The language of design Not only is he working with rural people, but he also conducts design workshops for them. “I love to give workshops,” Satish says. “I learn every day, so I really want to share it with people.” The participants in his workshops are artisans. One of Satish’s main aims is to revive and revitalize dying or endangered crafts. The dying crafts also benefit out of it. One of the challenges is the language barrier, as Satish does not know Tamil at all. “As a designer, I have to find a way to solve the problems that I face,” Satish explains. “If designers can’t solve their own problems, then how can they think about solving anyone else’s problems?” Hence Satish has found his own way to give good workshops without being bothered by the language barrier. Instead, he teaches in sign language. “I teach from the basics of designing to advanced levels using sign language,” he says. “Sign language is very important in the world of design.”

Smart pencil holder with hangers. The pencil holder is also made of natural fabrics.

Design Dreams “I want to give design education to people. Their knowledge or lack of knowledge about design does not matter,” Satish says. Satish is so passionate about conducting workshops that he wants to open his own designing school. He is inspired by the Gurukula system in ancient India and would like to reintroduce it in a contemporary context. He plans to admit students to his school of design after they finish 10th standard for the seven-year course in design. “When the students turn 21 years, I will let them work with different kind of projects,” he says. “When you turn 21 years old, your thinking is more structural.” Satish and Praveen have already done the initial plans for the school although they are yet uncertain about the location. “It will be an experiment in the beginning, because there are lots of difficulties,” admits Satish who is determined to persist with his dream project. “Design is a part of me,” Satish says. “It’s a way of living. I have to design everything in my life to get satisfied with myself.”

The Night View of the City

hirty-three hours after leaving my home country, my eyes are tired and my stomach is full of squishy airplane food. But when I see the endless sea of lights of beneath me coming closer, I forget about all that. I step out of my plane, into a hot steam room called India. India is exactly as I hoped it would be. In the evening, the air is pleasantly warm (now that the drizzle stopped), it smells a little bit like burnt summer and even in the dark, it’s a colourful scene. The cheerful saris and turbans already surrounded me at the airport, but now there’s a whole world full of them. Thin old men ride big old cargo bikes barefoot, cows graze by the roadside and honking rickshaws weave expertly between the ongoing stream of cyclists, busses and motorcyclists.

A Busy market place in Madurai

Before I left home, I wondered if I would love this country, or despise it when I leave. A big smile on the face of my guest mom Latha welcomes me when I arrive at my guesthouse. With her 15-year old daughter and her 70-year old father, she lives in a simple but pleasant house. “I’m so happy”, she repeatedly says about my arrival. Together with two other volunteers from Germany and England, I share a bedroom with an attached bathroom. Three times a day my guest mom cooks something delicious, that I get to munch using my hands. I love eating with my hands, but in Holland it would be very impolite.

In the London airport, I cherished my last goose bumps, because I expected not to experience them for a long time. And I was right, India is HOT! The monsoon season is starting. So, in the late afternoon, it often cools off a little after a good downpour. I’m looking forward to two amazing months, teaching at a private school and writing beautiful stories at the journalism office. In the mean time, I gulp multiple bottles of water a day; I carefully get better at crossing the road in the chaotic traffic and I enjoy the lovely food, the friendliness of the people and the great atmosphere and scenes on the street. Before I left home, I wondered if I would love this country, or despise it when I leave. I think I already found my answer: I love it!

Madurai Messenger Heritage November 2011

Chittanavasal Jain Caves: Truth is Beauty; Beauty, Truth

Adam Al Ghafri meanders through the magnificent ninth century Jain caves of Chittanavasal and is awestruck by the artistic exuberance of the fresco style paintings. Saddened by the vandalism that threatens to obliterate the paintings, he nevertheless says that art is a gateway to Truth, Sanctity and Beauty. By Adam Al Ghafri Muscat

Entrance to the Jain Caves

The magical paintings inside however are confirmed to have been done in the 9th century during the Pandyan dynasty under the rule of Sri Avanipadha Shekara Vallava Pandiyan, who was king between the years 815 – 862.

Chittanavasal: A Rural Idyll

ocated in a mountainous landscape, the well known Jain caves (known locally as the Arivar- Koil) of Chittanavasal village is a true gem of South India. Although smaller than expected and not impressive at first sight, once inside, one is flooded by the rich history of the Jains, and the artistic energy that echoes through the cave. The art may have faded and vandalized through time, and all that remains now are remnants of the masterpiece. Yet what is left is a sight of true artistic brilliance especially given the time they were created. With my eyes wide and bright with amazement, I

was infatuated by the cave, and while gazing at the beauty, started to inquire deeper on the origins of this ancient marvel.

Jainism: Where Art meets Religion Jainism is one of the most fascinating religions in history. Their rich and deep philosophies intertwined with their magnificent artwork makes the culture so unbelievably potent, that it is truly tragic that they had to fight so hard to keep it alive. Pushed away by locals at the time, the cave became a very important sanctuary for Jains in the immediate area, and played a big role

in protecting the faith. As one of their main virtues is a path of non-violence, they could not physically protect themselves. Therefore the caves were believed to have saved their culture at least in that particular area of India. The Jains believed in 24 Thirthankars or “Guides”, who guided them on the right path to salvation. The 23rd Guide, Paashwanadhar, is sculpted on the left side of the Ardha Mandapam, the main room of the temple where, on the ceiling, one can see the remaining paintings. The 24th Guide, Mahaveera (meaning “The mighty”) is engraved on the right side. He is particularly important as it is believed by Jains that he spoke to the local people of India and told them to accept Jains, so they would no longer have to run. It is also believed that he guided them to the cave. The truly mind bending aspect about the cave is the meditation room (also known as Garbha-Griham). Located right at the back of the cave, with two steps leading in, from afar it looks like an abyss of pure darkness. Our guide walked into the center of the room and let out a small “ohm” sound; we were awash with vibrations throughout our whole body and mind. The sound resembled that of whale songs or conch shells, the sublime soothing sounds of the

ocean, this effect is perfectly recreated in the cave due to the sound reverberating within the room. The acoustics are truly phenomenal; it is hard to believe that this was created over 1000 years ago. There are only certain specific positions in which one can stand to create this effect; this timeless construction of the cave must leave one in shock at the sheer knowledge of the people of the time to create this effect. This room is considered to be a direct link to the Gods. Unlike other religions, where only holy figures are allowed in such a room, in Jainism, all Jains are welcome to enter the room to communicate with the Divine through harmonious sounds.

Tracing the Antecedents The time of original construction is unsure, but some believe it to be between 600 – 650 AD, as the architecture resembles that of similar cave temples of the time, but this is not confirmed. It is also speculated that they were originally built by King Pandya of Madurai during this time. The magical paintings inside however are confirmed to have been done in the 9th century during the Pandyan dynasty under the rule of Sri Avanipadha Shekara Vallava Pandiyan, who was king between the years 815 – 862. He was not alone in ordering the paintings to be done though. His Guru cum Minister Ilam Gowthaman, also played a big part in having the artwork made. A faded and scratched, yet detailed painting of both of them and the King’s wife can be seen on the left side of the left pillar located inside the caves. Another part of the cave to mark the Pandyan dynasty are the eight petals of the lotus engraved on both sides of the entrance to the meditation room, as well as a scripter on the left wall as you enter the temple written in Tamil describing the paintings and praising the king.

Madurai Messenger Heritage November 2011

Five minutes to like Madurai This diamond of Southern India may not seem like much, but a true traveller would not regret going, I know I certainly don’t.

Ariane Lecuyer recalls her initial fears and apprehensions about coming to Madurai. Yet she says that the sheer warmth and friendliness of the people dissipated her fears, the moment she stepped into the city. Experiencing Madurai is truly sensual. Every sense is activated in the city, she says.

The man to first notice this jewel of history in modern times was S. Radhakrishna Iyer as he mentions them in his book, “General History of Pudukkottai State”, published in 1916. However, his writings do not have a detailed documentation of the caves, suggesting he did not fully explore them. The man credited with the discovery is Jouvaeu Dubreuils and Gopinatha Rao, who collaborated together in Chittannavasal in 1920. This is due to Dubreuil’s monograph about Chittannavasal which gathered relatively widespread attention; therefore, Dubreuil and Rao were both credited with the discovery.

By Ariane Lecuyer France.

The Art This is what the caves are famous for, the glorious fresco style paintings that lie inside them. The caves are small inside, a trek to go see them, and there isn’t much left of the original artwork, but what is left is a sight to truly behold. As a great admirer of art, and having seen my fair share of galleries, I was absolutely taken back by the paintings that layered the ceiling of the ardha-mandapam. The main painting is of a Lotus Pond, that is meant to symbolise the unity of nature, depicting an elephant (specifically symbolizes unity of animals) with a crocodile, cow and a fish. These paintings are truly mind blowing. They are drawn with such elegance and finesse, with the lines perfectly shaped to form a lotus with layers of petals. The smooth swaying water covered in lily-pads with creatures of all kinds in-between, the graceful artwork is truly a sight to behold. The colours are so vibrant and rich that it is astonishing they have lasted this long. This is apparently due to the use of herbal paints, although the real recipe for the paints is to general public knowledge. The fact that this was done 1200 years ago is simply astonishing. Doubtful, I kept asking the guide if they belonged to a later period. But amazingly, he was sure. The piece used to engulf the entire inner part of the cave except the floor, however, through years of erosion it’s only the ceiling that remains. Completely star struck, I then moved on to observe the other artwork. As I mentioned earlier, there is a faded picture the king, his queen and his minister on the right pillar after you walk inside the cave. Although very finely done, with accurate lines and detailed clothes/head dresses,

A write up about the caves

unfortunately the work is scratched up and heavily faded due to local artists trying to copy the artwork. This truly breaks my heart to see such beautifully created pieces of yore lost to greed. Above this, on the small archway before entering the ardha-mandapam, there is a painting representing the different stages of the lotus. This is another beautifully done piece, although if I am to be critical, it is not as detailed or vibrant as the one on the ceiling. However, it is still very creatively designed especially for the time. The next piece that took my breath away was the painting of two peacocks, between the entrance and the archway to the Ardha-Mandapam on lower ceiling. The waves to illustrate the peacock’s tail are so graceful and smooth that they warm the eyes. Art such as this cannot truly be put into words, and therefore one must go see it for themselves to truly grasp the nature and beauty of the caves. This diamond of Southern India may not seem like much, but a true traveller would not regret going, I know I certainly don’t.

hen i stepped out of the aircraft, i was totally lost: i did not find the person who was supposed to pick me up and my english was so bad that i did not dare to ask! But asking was not necessary. Seeing my lost gaze, several people came immediately to help and reassured me until i left the airport. Throughout my flight to madurai, i was increasingly stressed by the travel, although i was certain that it would be a wonderful experience. Yet my fears were laid to rest even as i took my first steps in this city. It was so reassuring because i did not feel alone.

Yet i know that it is not uncommon in madurai, known for its extreme friendliness of the people who are always ready to help and make you comfortable. The first few days in madurai were also my first encounter with the indian driving, which was terrifying! Every time in a car, i was scared for my life. Crossing the road was a nightmare— an ordeal that would almost take ten minutes! Nevertheless, i do not think that indian people are just crazy on the road, because there does seem to be a kind of driving system. I suppose that i just have to get used to it and most

importantly, to the system of ‘keep left’ during driving. When i was almost calm on the road, i was finally able to look at landscape and people all around me. The colours, shops, lights… it was so intense. My gaze could not stop on a particular thing because it was already attracted by another, sometimes it was guided by my nose and sometimes by my ears. Every sense is activated in india. But what surprised me even more was the serenity of the people, despite noise, overcrowding and several other problems they deal with on a daily basis.

Madurai Messenger Society November 2011

Arranged Marriages: Where Love follows Marriage As a stranger to arranged marriages in India, Anna-Dora Maron from Denmark, who is more familiar with the do-it-yourself marriage, wanted to learn more about the matrimonial culture to make her prejudices disappear.

I got the impression right away that his clients are important to him, since he not only finds a partner for them but also prays for them. I was wondering if he always knew that this was what he wanted to do for a living.

By Anna-Dora Maron Copenhagen, Denmark

The whole Indian matrimonial culture was strange to me as it is for many Europeans who come to India.

Father Knows Best The first place I went to in my exploration of arranged marriages was the matrimonial information center, which was a room where there were more than 200,000 files of people who want to get married. Even though I was there early in the afternoon on a workday, the place was busy with parents eagerly looking through the books to find a perfect match for their son or daughter. One of the men looking in the books was a father who had been looking for a perfect wife for his son for more than one year. I was wondering why he was putting such a big effort in arranging his son’s marriage instead of letting his son do it.

Parents getting a copy of the files before going to the astrologer to find out if the person matches with their son or daughter.

ove and marriage combined is something I have dreamt of since I was a little girl in Denmark. In my culture, I was always taught not to marry a man if I am not in love with him. My parents always told me about their story—how they fell in love when they were around 18 years old and then shortly after they got married. It was their best decision they said to me. They even told me about many other romantic stories of love marriages in my family. “I believe that marriage in Europe is like a romantic tradition that people find comforting,” says Matthew Penticost,

journalism volunteer from England. “People in love get married so they can preserve that happy feeling, that rush you get when you fall in love.” Some Europeans are prejudiced about arranged marriages as they believe that two people are forced to marry each other even though they might not want to. Europeans simply do not get the idea of how a couple can be happy, even when it is arranged by others. “Love is not something that is decided by others,” Matthew Penticost says. “It is between you and your lover.”

“I will find the best benefits for my son, because I know what is best for him in any matter,” the father explains to me. I was curious to find out how he could find a good match for his son, and the first thing he showed me was the potential match’s horoscope. I then felt inspired to visit an astrologer to know more about his role in arranging marriages.

Hitching his life to Astrology “I did not enjoy my childhood because I was studying to become an astrologer,” says 38-year-old R. Shanmuganathan. We sit in a room that looks like a pooja

room with lots of pictures of gods and different scents of perfume that makes you feel like you are in a dream world. The man is nicely dressed in white and looks very wise. “My father was a farmer, but I was taught to be an astrologer since I was eight years,” he explains. Hence he has more than 30 years of experience. “One of the main things I do is to match people,” R. Shanmugam says. He explains that the way he does it, is to match based on the compatibility of the two people’s birth stars. “I really enjoy my job,” he says. “I feel like I am helping people.”

Good marriage structure R. Shanmugan explains about the good structure for getting married. This is the most important thing to focus on, when he is matching stars in prospective horoscopes. The potential partner has to have a good marriage structure. “Some people don’t have a good structure in their marriage life,” he explains. “They should not get married. I have to match people who are sure to have a good marriage structure.” One of the things R. Shanmugan finds challenging is to tell if one does not have a good marriage structure. “When I say something bad about one’s future, I will get sins,” he explains. “Then I have to do some remedy.” It all seemed so spiritual to me. I was wondering if the match maker also is just as spiritual.

Made on Earth When I visited T. Selliah, another match maker, I was surprised to see that his office was in a pooja room. On the shelf, in front of the pictures of gods, was a picture of a young man and some money. The match maker, T. Selliah, explained to me that this was one of his clients. He always puts a picture of the client and the amount of money he paid in front of the gods and then he sends his blessings and prays to them. I got the impression right away that his clients are important to him, since he not only finds a partner for them but also prays for them. I was wondering if he always knew that this was what he wanted to do for a living. “I used to be a farmer,” T. Selliah explains. “You don’t need any education to become a matchmaker. I became a matchmaker with my own experience.” T. Selliah still farms as a part time job. He has three cows and distributes milk to the locals. “It was by chance that I became a matchmaker,” he says. “It was a business I got through the gods.” Selliah has been working in the fields for 22 years. For him, arranged marriages are a beautiful thing. He has any number of thy-lived-happily-everafter stories of people being very happy after matched by him..

Team Work “What I really think is nice about arranged marriages, is the team work that is involved,” he explains. “Not only

Madurai Messenger Society November 2011

Madurai – Beautifully Tragic or Tragically Beautiful?

Nowadays, people have also started to use internet as a matrimonial service, but people still come to me.

Adam Al Ghafri came, saw and fell in love with Madurai. The reasons range from the overwhelming friendliness and warmth of the people to the religious freedom and tolerance that is so obvious. The young artist is overawed by the grandeur of the Meenakshi Temple and believes that art transcends barriers and boundaries, and believes in discovering a place like a traveler and not a tourist. By Adam Al Ghafri Muscat

does the family help one to find the right groom or bride. They also help solve the problems between the couple.” He proudly shows the albums to me with all the different persons who avail his services.

’ve always said that there is a distinct difference between visiting a place as a tourist, and visiting a place as a traveler. As a tourist, one only sees a mask of the place and what it wants them to see, but as a traveller, one can truly grasp the nature of the place, and find out what’s at the heart of it. I can see how visiting Madurai as a tourist may not be that appealing, but visiting Madurai as a traveler is an experience one cannot dare to miss.

“I love it that people who come to me feel so happy,” he says with a sparkle in his eyes. “I am happy that I am doing something good for other people.” He tells me that he is especially proud of the educated people who approach him. “Another good thing about working in this field is that you develop so many contacts,” he says. “I’m always busy.” Selliah is almost always traveling because of his job, and has to do things in a short period of time. ”If I don’t find a bride or a groom quick enough, the parents will keep contacting me for updates,” he explains.

The traditional way to match make “The status is the most important thing to match,” T. Selliah says. “The second important thing is to match the income and the caste.” According to him, community and caste are non negotiable in match making. “Match making has not changed that much in the last decades,” he says. “But 50 years ago, no one used a matrimonial service. People mostly married their own relatives or friends of their family.” T. Selliah thinks that the matrimonial service has become more popular, because nowadays, people are not able to find a match among their relatives. “There are more expectations because people have better education and income,” he explains. “Nowadays, people have also started to use internet as a matrimonial service, but people still come to me.” T. Selliah does not feel threatened by Internet websites with matrimonial services because he knows he is more trustworthy than the Internet. “This field will always stay alive even though it might increase,” he says.

The traditional match maker T. Selliah

What really struck me first was not the smell, the car horns or the hordes of people (all of which give it the well earned name of “The City that Never Sleeps”), but the sheer curiosity, friendliness and openness of the people themselves. Most people here seem open to talk and are curious about you and where you are from, something that is sometimes hard to come by in a city like London. I’ve spoken to rickshaw drivers about Indian politics, shop owners about their history in Madurai, and small children who are energetic and curious about my beginnings. This kind of experience truly does warm my heart; the city itself seems to make you feel a part of it.

There are many different perspectives on arranged marriages even in India. Some perspectives are more narrow minded than others, where for instance, caste and income is most important in matching people. Others value the horoscope and personality much more. No matter what, the parents and the match maker do a great work in finding the right match.

The next thing that surprised me was the religious freedom. Seeing a church, then right across the street a mosque, then round the corner from that a temple, I would automatically assume that there would be high levels of tension, this was not the case. Of course, with diversity such as this, there is bound to be some issues. However, they remain very minor here compared to places such as Manchester, Ireland, Bahrain and some parts of America. I find the religious freedom in Madurai so beautiful and heartwarming, that I fell in love with the city.

I feel inspired by the way Indians approach marriages. I like the idea of the family working as a team, to find happiness for their children. Even though I prefer to choose who I am going to spend the rest of my life with, I still wish that families in Europe have just as strong a family bond as Indian families. Arranged marriages are fascinating. And one has to get to know better before passing judgement.

I have also always believed that art is the one thing that can break all boundaries and barriers, and truly touch people’s hearts. It fills my heart with joy to hear music being played at every turn, right from little jingles when cars are reversing to huge speakers on street corners blaring Tamil music. As an artist, I cannot describe how inspiring this is to me. I plan to soak up as much inspiration as I can. On the subject of artistic beauty, possibly one of the most

Arranged marriage is inspiring

mind blowing pieces of architecture I have ever seen is the Meenakshi Amman Temple. When I first viewed it from the roof of the hotel I was staying in, I was in genuine shock for a minute. As I found myself at the entrance to the temple, I could not drag my eyes away; looking up at the tens of thousands of figures gorgeously crafted into this fantastic piece of manmade marvel, with such detail and such finesse. However, there is a far more tragic side that struck me when I arrived here, and that was the immense poverty that is visible. I have seen poverty such as this before, but watching street sweepers clean a floor that remains constantly dirty, makes my heart sink. What gives me hope though is that despite the struggle they endure, they still fight for every day, and most smile when they can, something that I would not believe unless I saw it for my own eyes. For me, the city and the people in it give me hope for the world. To see this kind of peace and tranquility in the society and to see the people who live with such strife, yet still fight and smile through to another day, is truly inspirational. I knew from the second I drove into Madurai, that this will be one of the most interesting experiences I will ever have, and one that will surely be unforgettable.

Madurai Messenger Ordinary People - Extraordinary Lives November 2011

Susheela Srinivasan: To Mam, With Love Susheela Srinivasan left her birth place Rayapalayam, fifty years ago, to teach in English throughout India in places as far flung as Delhi, Chennai and Kodaikanal. She retired five years ago after forty years in teaching. After fifty years of traveling around India, she came back to her birth place, Rajapalayam. Anne-Marij de Koning speaks with her about her life as a teacher.

“In cities we have good teaching talent and highly educated teachers. English is spoken at home and education is important for them. So we have to be on our toes to satisfy students and parents and that is the challenge.”

By Anne-Marij de Koning Netherlands

I 20

asked Susheela Srinivasan why she became a teacher. In the Netherlands, where I live, the most common answer is I-always- wanted-it-when-I -was-young, but with Susheela Srinivasan, it wasn’t a girl’s dream but a matter of chance rather than choice. She tells me, “No, it was an accident. My son was five years old and I had to put him in school. So I went along with him and became a teacher!” Teaching just happened to her and in the beginning she was not even trained to teach! For her it didn’t seem that much of a problem because she said she learned to do so in the process. “I would say that was when I started learning to speak. Before I had’nt spoken a word, I think that is where most teachers start,” she adds.

A stranger in her home Although Susheela Srinivasan doesn’t come from an educated family, her parents sent her Ms. Susheela Srinivasan

to a boarding school instead of a local school. Her parents belong to the business class in the town of Rayapalayam, but also owned lands and were agriculturalists. “At times I have wondered, do I need that education because education makes you a stranger in your own home,” she reflects.

Teaching across India During her teaching career, Susheela Srinivasan traveled all around India to teach. The wide exposure to teach at different places has enabled her to acquire insights into the differences between schools in urban and rural areas. According to Susheela Srinivasan, teaching in the cities is easier because most often, language is not a problem. “In cities we have good teaching talent and highly educated teachers. English is spoken at home and education is important for them. So we have to be on our toes to satisfy students and parents and that is the challenge.” According to her, it is more difficult to teach at a residential school rather than a private one. “At residential schools children come from all over the world and this brings with it its unique set of problems. Coming from different regions of India, speaking different languages, coming

from different kinds of homes, is a real challenge. In the rural regions, there were other kinds of problems, more emotional.”

Hi-tech Despite her forty years of teaching experience, she tells us that if she were to go back now to a class in the city, she has to start all over again because everything has become hi-tech. “Because the methods have changed; the materials have changed.” Despite the shift to hi-tech, she tells us that the subject matter and what you teach is still the same. “It’s best that the other people starting to teach because we lose all the energy for it.”

Love for children According to Susheela Srinivasan, the prime requirement for a good teacher is the love for children. “Obviously, you have to love children. If you are a parent and you love your children, you are a good teacher. If you don’t love them, they know it.” When I ask her what makes her a good teacher, she says, “It’s not just what I did in the classroom or the kind of facilities they have. That’s just one thing. They don’t remember lessons learned in a classroom, let’s be honest. The fights they had, the songs they sang, the trips

they had… so it was good to organize all that and now it’s rewarding.” These days, Susheela Srinivasan still helps out in schools in her neighbourhood. She goes to the school to help the teachers, not just teachers of English, but also those who teach other subjects. For the English teachers, she improves their input by encouraging them to read. And for all teachers in school she has different breathing exercises. “That’s one method that always works,” she says.

Coming alive Would she become a teacher again if she had another chance? According to her, the regular schedule of teaching is very demanding and that at her age, she doesn’t have the energy for that any more. She adds, “I like to teach and that is when I really come alive, just as a singer comes alive while singing and a dancer, while dancing.” The challenges are multiple in a demanding profession like teaching. “We have bad management, we have demanding parents. But if you are in a class room and see the children, nothing else matters.” “Children keep the teachers going. Otherwise, I don’t think teachers would be able to teach,” says Susheela Srinivasan as she signs off.

Madurai Messenger Youth November 2011

I too have a dream… Matthew Penticost visits the Vellividiyar Corporation Girls School in Madurai and meets girls aged 7-12 to know about their aspirations and dreams. Camera? Check, notepad? Check, Dictaphone? Check. By Matthew Penticost UK

Out of the younger group of girls at the school, the general feeing was they wanted to go to the West, because they were “famous” countries and they were considered cleaner. I did wonder why they considered America a “famous” country. Was it the Hollywood movie industry? If that was the case, then it would surely be India in the lead, as Bollywood movies appeal to almost 3 billion viewers a year compared to Hollywood’s 2.6 billion. Another reason was based purely on the volunteers from Projects Abroad, who visit and work at the school. Obviously, good impressions have been made. Putting reasons as to why they want to go West to the back of my mind for a minute, I wanted to see what they were striving for. The general feeling was jobs in the academic (Maths) or engineering sectors (Computer engineering). But inspirationally, the older girls wanted to stay in India and serve Indian society or go to work briefly in the West and return bringing back skills. In my travels, I have yet to see such dedication and patriotism in the younger generation.

Another inspirational moment was from one girl who wanted to work in the aviation industry. When I enquired, she told me that she was inspired by IndianAmerican astronaut, Kalpana Chawla who died in the space shuttle Colombia disaster in 2003, leaving India in a state of shock. I think this sums up the Indian culture of always thinking of others rather than yourself. Maybe we can all learn from these young girls. Sharp minds of the future!

k, we were ready for our visit to the Vellividiyar Corporation Girls School in Madurai. This school in the centre of the city provides education for around 1500 students, aged 11 to 18 years. We wanted to speak to local young adults and see what impressions they had on a range of issues: culture to work life. We were not able to interview the older students

(17-18 year olds) because true to Indian nature, they were all hard at work revising for their exams. On the plus side, we met with a group of around 70 students in the 7th and 8th standards and they were generous to give us an insight into their dreams. Out of the 70 in the class, around half had dreams about going to live and

work in the west. The general feeling was that they wanted to go to the US and the United Kingdom with the occasional student wanting to go to France or Germany. I was curious. Was it the culture depicted in Western movies? Was it the countless advertisements from the likes of MacDonald’s and the like that made the West so appealing to these children?

But based on the current scenario with nearly 1 million young adults and nearly 9.2 percent of the US unemployed as of October 2011, do they think it will be easy to get a job? The feeling between both groups of girls was a resounding ‘yes’ as they had put in the hard work and have been learning since an early age. The other benefit is that they love going to school so they are dedicated to their studies. Do their families support them in the pursuit of this dream to work abroad? Most of the young girls hadn’t told

A Young Girl hard at work.

Spell-check? Check, Save document? Check, Pursue dream….we will see. 23 their family members of their dreams. When they do tell others of this dream, they are apparently quickly discouraged. They are told that they are to marry in India first and then maybe they can move Westwards. Of course, this is the case for all Indian children. But with pressure from the older generations to settle down and have a family, when will they get the chance to reach that extra mile? Why do young Indians want to go West? What will they miss the most? As culture is very important to India, anyone moving to the West will surely miss it. I have only been in India for 2 weeks and I know for a fact that I will miss the Indian culture when I return to the UK. Do these students think that the West will embrace Indian culture: The food, the music and the lifestyle? With nearly half a million Indians in London and nearly 19 percent of Leicester an Indian community, I can honestly say that we do our best to embrace all cultures and make them feel at home. And for the older generations, what

about their dreams? Unfortunately, the case seems to be that at some point in your teens, the world dawns on you and responsibilities set it: Marriage, children, bills, chores. You put these dreams on hold but you don’t forget about them. I honestly hope this common problem doesn’t affect these innocent children. I hope they keep their innocence and the passion to pursue their dreams. Maybe we could all follow this example and reach that bit further. Being a Westerner, I still can’t fathom why anyone would want to leave this beautiful country and work elsewhere. Maybe my opinion shouldn’t be counted as I am only a visitor and so far can only see India through rose tinted glasses. Is it the same for all countries? At some point in our lives, do we yearn for that sense of the unknown? The adventure? To travel to distant lands and live our dreams? Think back to your childhood to a time where you dreamt-- not of bills and bank accounts—but of being a fireman, policeman, space ninja cowboy, and try your very best to achieve that goal.

Madurai Messenger Tribute November 2011

A Musical Odyssey Adam Al Ghafri reviews this timeless classic about a timeless musician and is impressed by the wide canvas of the biography. He recommends this sensitive and well crafted biography to anyone—from sociologists, artistes, historians, and anyone looking for a meaningful read By Adam Al Ghafri Muscat.

hen I first started reading MS: A Life in Music, I was a little confused. The first two chapters are hardly about MS, the musician, at all, but rather about the history of Madurai, the origins of Carnatic music and the Indian socio-cultural milieu at the time. As the author introduced MS, the themes that spread through the book became deeply intertwined. This then did not become a book just about MS, but of the history of Carnatic music, the Indian media, the evolution of Indian society, and MS’s rise to unexpected heights.

Surpassing Expectations I can honestly say that this is one of the most insightful books I have read, and being a regular reader of philosophy from Immanuel Kant, Tariq Ramadan and Slovaj Zizek, my bar is set high. As a poet/songwriter myself, and therefore in relatively the same genre of art as T.J.S. George, I have to give credit to him for his choice of words and his ability to make them flow through the page. One could turn to any page and take out evidence of his spectacular world choice. One example, “Suddenly, an entire generation seemed to burst forth with talent. This generation was colourful and alive, brimming with confidence in itself, unafraid to display its angularities even as it was proud to exhibit its skills.” As you can see, his word choice is inspiring, and the way in which his sentences are organized that allow them to weave through the pages as if listening to poetry.

Title: MS – A Life in Music Author: T.J.S.George Publisher: HarperCollins Publishers – India Price: Rs. 495

However, if I were to have one criticism about the text overall, it would be the organization of segments in the chapters. Sometimes while reading, events and time periods mentioned can get a bit muddled up. Besides, I believe T.J.S. George could have explained Subbulakshm’si position better, if the organization of the text were to be improved. However, I have to admit that this is just a minor fault in the text, and once one has got the flow of the biography, it ceases to be a problem in later chapters.

Following the Music

Suspicious Undertones

Although originally limited in the understanding of Carnatic music and history, T.J.S. George draws from an abundance of knowledgeable individuals in which he gives credit to easily. However, he does this is such a way that makes the book flow seamlessly. Usually when an author pulls in as much outside information as George did, the book becomes disjointed. This was nowhere near the case in this book. The book spans the early days of the Carnatic Trinity, all the way through to the beginnings of Radio in India, as well as deeply explaining the Brahmin and non-Brahmin divide and its influence on music, with detailed explanations of the role of concerts and female musicians in society at the time. This is what makes this biography so much more of a sociological study then a mere biography, not to detract from the later chapters which show the struggle and prevalence of MS Subbulakshmi.

T.J.S. George does a spectacular job in capturing this timeline of events, making it an exciting and inspiring read for any reader, not just one interested in music. Personally however, seeing how T.J.S. George described certain events, even though it was clearly stated that Sadasivam controlled most of MS’s career, I believe as an artiste myself that she had more of a role to play than acknowledged. Throughout her story, she proved to go against the grain on several occasions, most notability when she left her mother for Sadasivam, which was completely unexpected of her, at least to her family. My personal opinion is that an artist of her caliber and musical talent holds no desire for power, but none the less a need for recognition. Knowing her story in my mind, it is possible that she had the ability to plan how she could achieve her goals given the situation, and played her cards perfectly. However, this is just a personal belief, and not one I have the knowledge to back up.

The book does dive deep into sociological complexes and general history of music, Southern Indian society and the media business in India. T.J.S. George’s most impressive task, however, is taking us on a journey through MS Subbulakshmi’s life. Through her beginnings as a 12-yearold girl performing in Madurai under the control of her mother, her entry into the world of cinema, her life with Sadasivam,and then into the greater arena of Carnatic music. Her musical genius spreads to the farthest corners, to London, New York and even at the UN assembly.

Read and Reread I highly recommend this book to anyone who wants a deeper insight into Southern India, its history, and the story of an artiste. Although on a first read it is hard to grasp all the concepts, it is a pleasure to reread it in order to grasp the full nature of the biography. T.J.S. George has written a biography that appeals to all readers, from sociologists, to artistes, to historians and just someone looking for an exiting read, this book truly captures it all.

Madurai Messenger Culture November 2011

The Festival of Dolls From the first day of the bright fortnight of Ashwin, all of India is devoted to the celebration of the Navaratri festival. Nine nights and ten days of ceremonies, rituals and feasts in honor of the Supreme Mother Goddess and her nine forms. For Dutch girls, Lisette Wouters and Anne-Marij de Koning, Navaratri is a totally new experience that they are eager to explore. They visit the house of Mr. and Mrs. Ramanathan, who proudly show them their collection of Golu dolls and explain all about the Navaratri traditions. By Lisette Wouters and Anne-Marij de Koning Netherlands

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r. and Mrs Ramanathan and their family proudly welcome us into their house. A simple but beautiful lodging, that’s a lot bigger than you would think on first notice. Attached to the living room we find a small little room, inside a staircase full of dolls and figures in all colours and sizes. A colourful scene, and somewhere far away it reminds us a little bit of a christmas nativity scene. Just a lot, lot bigger. So what do these dolls have to do with Navaratri?

The waitingline for visiting the Meenakshi temple!

Navaratri is celebrated differently all over India. In Northern India, people fast. In the West, they celebrate by way of dancing and here in Madurai, it is customary to display a Golu: an exhibition of various dolls and figures on steps. Those steps always have to be in odd numbers. We Westerners are tempted to ask, “Why?” and the answer we receive from the family is, “We don’t know”. Hindus don’t question their traditions. They just follow them.

All are Special

No fasting, just feasting On Navaratri, people visit their friends and families to see the Golu and worship the gods. “During the nine days of the festival, about 150 people visit our house. They come in the evening and sing a song for the Golu. Some people bring gifts. Before they go, we offer them coffee and a snack called chundal, specially prepared for this occasion”, says Mr Ramanathan with pride.” We were really astonished to see the huge collection of dolls that they had. We were told that it was passed on from generation to generation. Mr. and Mrs. Ramanathan inherited the collection about 40 years ago. Every year, we get atleast one new doll because it is a part of the tradition. The reason behind it is because an old doll from the previous year’s golu may break. Here in Madurai, Navaratri is all about family and food. “No fasting, just feasting”, the grandson smiles. When we ask him what Navaratri is all about, he answers us with a

Mr. and Mrs. Ramanathan

question: “Why do you celebrate christmas?” The answer comes naturally: “Coming together with your family, singing, praying, celebrating and enjoying the food together”. The two festivals do seem a bit similar in certain ways.

When you look at a Christmas nativity scene, you don’t see just dolls. Baby Jesus, Maria and the three kingshave a story to tell. It portrays life lessons of morals and values. That is the case with the dolls of the Navaratri Festival also. “They are mostly small, simple stories, told to the children to teach them certain lessons about society. But the stories are also told for devotion, faith, love and respect for god or people you love. For instance, there’s the famous story about the thirsty crow that needed some water. When it found some water at the bottom of the jug, the crow got the idea of putting in stones in order to raise the water level. The same way, each doll narrates a story of a particular god. Most of the deities represent something, particularly studies, wealth and money,” the grandson explains. When we ask Mr. Ramanathan which doll is most special for him, he did find it a bit difficult to give a straight answer. Then he explained: “They are all equal, there’s not a doll that is more special than the others. But when you worship the gods, you always have to worship Ganesha first.”

Navaratri in the city Navaratri is not just celebrated inside the houses. A very important place to visit during the Navaratri festival is of course the temple. Just as the churches are more crowded

“During the nine days of the festival, about 150 people visit our house. They come in the evening and sing a song for the Golu. Some people bring gifts. Before they go, we offer them coffee and a snack called chundal, specially prepared for this occasion”, says Mr Ramanathan with pride.” at the time of Christmas, the temples are more crowded at the time of Navaratri. No matter what time of the day you visit the temple, you will still find a large number of people coming to the temple. This can be observed especially in the Meenakshi Amman temple, the heart of the Madurai society. At some hours, the waiting line covers the whole street. People visit the temple to worship their gods in a way that’s appropriate during the Navaratri festival. To avoid the big crowd, we go to the Muktheeshwarar temple in Teppakulam area. This temple is peaceful and not very crowded. In different areas of the temple, we recognize the Golu dolls on

Madurai Messenger Culture November 2011

Spellbound Matthew Penticost is spellbound by the breathtaking bueaty and friendliness of the city that he describes as “the most beautiful place in the world.” By Matthew Penticost UK

ell first of all it’s completely different from the UK. I’m not just talking about the heat the entire culture is different. Thankfully on my first day at the Madurai Messenger they gave me a cultural workshop to limit the shock of Indian life compared to Western life. The first thing that struck me is how open everyone is in India. Everyone is happy to help you and wants to say hello. I think the thing I was worried about most about my first time in India was the food and hospitality. I can’t say much about the food apart from the fact that it is delicious and there definitely is nothing wrong with using your hands and getting stuck in!

The Golu’s of the Ramanathan family

steps and tables. We see people walking by the dolls and praying to the gods, sometimes even singing. Again, we are reminded of Christmas, when the churches are full of nativity scenes and people walk by, praying, singing and lighting candles.

After enjoying all the beautiful stories of the dolls and the traditions and feastings the Ramanathan family told us, it’s time to go home.

As said, the collection of dolls in the temples and houses is on the increase every year. About one month before the festival, shops start setting up tables full of dolls and figures. We find a shop in Madurai that’s known for their Navaratri dolls at this time of the year. A table in the centre of the shop is reserved specially for the dolls, imported from all over India. A lot of dolls come from cities like Calcutta, Rajasthan and Vilachery. “But most of the dolls come from Kancheepuram, where they make the best paper mache and clay dolls”, the owner of the shop tells us. The Ramanathan family also bought some new dolls this year. The grandson points to their newest purchase, a small man and a big woman hugging. After enjoying all the beautiful stories of the dolls and the traditions and feastings the Ramanathan family told us, it’s time to go home. As I mentioned earlier, all visitors get some chundal, and so do we. A delicious little snack we enjoy thankfully. Above all, the sweet family also surprises us with a special gift, a little purse for all of us. We admire the Ramanathan family and their culture for their warm hospitality and generosity, and wish them a very happy and prosperous Navaratri.

My first night I met my housemate and we got a tuc tuc to Madurai center and met the rest of the volunteers with Projects Abroad. Not all were with Journalism but they were all nice. In fact we have arranged with a few of them to go on a night train, night boat ride to the beach this weekend. The weather is amazing during the day and currently we have had rain at night but it’s refreshing. Last night I put on my swimming shorts and stood outside during a storm and it was amazing. The night before we went to a rooftop bar to have a drink and I saw the temples of Madurai for the first time. They took my breath away I have never seen anything like them back in the UK. I also found it quite inspiring that a church, a mosque and a temple are so close together and there is no problems. I’m glad I’m doing the journalism course because there will be no short supply of things to write about. My first full day at the journalism office was great as well. We went to a university to see my housemate give a lecture on digital media and journalism to Indian students. I got some good photos and we met the headmaster who let us take pictures of the campus. I have been told I can only write a small section about my first impressions in India. I think that’s the hardest thing having to sum up probably the most beautiful place in the world in only a few words...

A Typical traffic scene in Madurai

Shops cover every inch of the streets in Madurai

Madurai Messenger Distant Lands November 2011

Muscat Musings Adam Al Ghafri, a resident of Muscat, on why he is proud to belong to this multicultural modern West Asian city and most of all, the religious tolerance that make him willing to bellow from rooftops that “Muscat is my home!” By Adam Al Ghafri Muscat

Arial view of Muttrah port

Dubai, Oman has always kept a solid grip on its culture, and the heart and soul of Oman and its people echo through the streets of Muscat. However, it is not the fancy hotels, cafés or clubs that make the city special, as most city’s can boast these; it’s the sheer sight of history as you drive through the city. With forts dating hundreds of years old placed on mountain tops, and traditional Omani Dows anchored in the port, it is evident that the flame of the culture is nowhere close to dimming, but only growing. The landscape of Muscat also makes it a snippet of paradise. I spent many of my childhood days on its golden beaches with a bright blue sky above me and palm trees swaying in the breeze. The spectacular mountain ranges in Oman are ideal for rock climbing enthusiasts like myself, barren brown rock can be seen from all heights in the city, creating the atmosphere of a modern world in classic Arabia. Many of these are along the coast, proving perfect for an isolated get away on a small beach, or for the adrenaline junkies who like a bit of cliff jumping.

uscat is my heart, my soul, my beginning and my home. I have seen the city grow for almost 18 years, and this beautiful, vibrant, peaceful place will never leave my heart. You can be whoever, from wherever, doing whatever in Muscat and the people you meet will still become like family to you. I have honestly never known a person who has left this city, and not dreamed of coming back, including myself. Situated right in the corner of the Arabian Peninsula, Muscat is the capital city of Oman. Our ruler Sultan Qaboos bin Said is hailed in Oman as the saviour of the country, as almost 41 years ago, Oman was nothing more than 200 km stretch of road, villages, a couple of

sea ports and three schools, with only about 4000 people attending them. This was under the rule of his father Said bin Taymur that Sultan Qaboos and his followers, with help from the British, over threw his father’s rule and acceded to the thrown on July 23rd, 1970. Forty-one years, and Oman has reached unexpected heights, being one of the most diplomatic countries in the world: a large business and oil supplier, and one of the more liberal countries in the Gulf. Still developing at an exceeding rate, Oman was rated by the United Nations as the most improved nation within 40 years.

Piece of Paradise Now, history aside, the city of Muscat is a place that leaves a permanent mark

on anyone’s heart. Being where I grew up, I have met the most beautiful people from all across the world, ranging from Europe to North and South America, Africa and Asia, with special mention to the Omanis, who are open and accepting to anyone, as long as you are a good person. Whether it’s a day going to the local Shisha bar, or a night out with a friend, or simply just driving around the city, people leave with memories engraved in their mind forever. Now, also boasting a host of large shopping malls, cinemas, five star hotels and high-end education in both the public and private sector, all under Islamic rule, proves how Oman goes against the grain of the Western view of the Middle East (except when Dubai is mentioned). But unlike several other developing nations such as

Golden beaches like this are spread throughout the whole country.

The Darker Side

However, along with the Arab Spring Muscat (and mainly the other city Sohar) did protest against this, but it has not ended. On top of that, contrary to popular perceptions, there is crime in Muscat. However, this is restricted to locals of certain districts and is virtually unheard of among expatriates due to it being illegal to publish crime in the paper without a Ministry decree. Despite these downsides, if you talk to people in Muscat they will describe it as close to paradise.

There is however a darker side to any city. In Muscat it’s the corruption that is present in the ministries there.

The city is home to people from all across the world, with four International

Muttrah Ruwi at night

schools, besides The Indian School and The Filipino School. With prosperous oil and business jobs, Muscat has opened its arms to people of all nations. There is also virtually no religious scrutinies in Muscat, with places of worship for Hindus, Muslims, Christians, and Buddhists all working together under the bright sun. Whenever I think of this aspect of the city, it makes me think how Muscat is a beacon of peace in the Middle East, proving to be far different from most of Arabia, giving hope for the Arabic culture as a whole. This is exactly why I will gladly shout from rooftops with pride “Muscat is my home!”

Madurai Messenger Village Voices November 2011

Thirumangalam: A Rural Idyll Leonie Rodenbuecher visits Thirumangalam and discovers a lovely little village with a literacy rate of 80 percent- higher than the national average of 60 percent. As a village on the brink of technological inputs in farming, she hopes that its people will also preserve their heritage and native wisdom with inputs from Adam Al Ghafri and Ariane Lecuyer. By Leonie Rodenbuecher

People

Germany

When we drove across the village, we met two old men sitting on a wooden bench. They were resting in front of a small house surrounded by fields in which a few chicken were pecking. Gandhi and Suriyan are two of the workers who moved to Tirumangalam for farming. They came here 30 years back and are glad about this decision. Furthermore, they both own a sweetshop and earn enough money for their families. Gandhi is 70 years old and has two daughters and two sons. Suriyan is 72 years old and has four daughters and a son. They told us that the increase in the number of farmers is more and more because of attractive income from agriculture. This is caused by the governmental scheme Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Act

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hen we arrived in Thirumangalam, we saw a lot of small houses surrounded by fields and green plants. Chicken were pecking and dogs sleeping in the shade of the trees. A group of women who were sitting in front of the entrance to a house told us that they were proud to live there and enjoy their lives without facing any problems. It seemed to be a rural idyll where people live in peace and are unmindful about the technological development in other parts of India. But after we talked to a farmer who is very committed to modern agriculture, I was impressed how its people carve out a fortune. Thirumangalam is a place where you can experience first hand how an ordinary town develops only because of the ambition of its people.

Place Thirumangalam is a municipality in the southwest of the Madurai District in Tamil Nadu, India. It is about 20 km away from Madurai city and situated on the banks of river Gundar, which is a tributary of river Vaigai. An old legend explains why the village is called Thirumangalam. It is said that the mangalyam for Goddess Meenakshi of Madurai was designed and made in Thirumangalam. The mangalyam is given to the bride during the wedding ceremony and symbolises the bond between husband and wife. A woman wears it throughout her life as long as the husband is alive. It is a symbol of matrimony.

the population is engaged in business and related allied activities. The rest of the people are mainly farmers or daily workers who work in the construction sector. The farmers cultivate crops like cotton, ground nuts, chillies, cholam, ragi and kambu in the fields that surround the village. Several families flocked to Thirumangalam hoping to find work in agriculture. The women help in the fields or look after their children and the household.

(MGNREA), which provides 100 days work for the people for which each person is paid Rs 100 on a daily basis. We met Gandhiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 38-year-old daughterin-law Chitra, who moved here after her marriage to Gandhiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son. Now the whole family lives together in their small house. The couple and their two sons take care of Gandhi. Chitra is happy about the solidarity in the family and isproud of her life here which, according to her, is without any problems. Except the two sons who are 18 and 23 years old, every member of the family works in the surrounding fields. Chitra helps in cultivation and her husband drives the tractor for a farmer. Both sons are educated and study at a college in Madurai. The most important thing in life for Chitra is that they make a good career. She would like them to get a government employment in future. Ironically, schemes like MGNREA which make families like those of Gandhi and Suriyan happy, pose problems for people like Jayaraman. He heads a family-run business. For several generations, his family has been running a rice mill that converts paddy to rice. Paddy is valued lower than rice so the farmer who harvests paddy on his fields gives it to Jayaramanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s factory that sells it as expensive rice afterwards. Twelve

people are working in the mill and also twelve workers are employed in the fields which belong to it. Jayaraman is 65 years old and comes every day to the mill from his home in another village which is five km away. His children, three daughters and one son, all have a good jobs and are well educated. None of them will continue the family business but Jayaraman is glad about that because he is unhappy that his father forced him into the and therefore wants his children to carve out a career of their choice. Jayaraman is not only a farmer and head of a family but also very committed to social welfare in Thirumangalam. He is the water resource president and the representative of all the farmers in the monthly committee. Every month, the representatives of each town and department meet to discuss civic problems and invite suggestions for improvement s. Furthermore, Jayaraman is a member in a project of the Tamil Nadu Agricultural University in Tirumangalam. He acts as an intermediary between the people who are doing research in the university and what can improve at the grassroots for the farmer in the village He explains new ideas and suggestions directly to the farmers.

Workers in the Rice Mill of P.N.R Jayaraman are hiding in the shade to protect themselves from the midday heat

Population According to the 2001 India census, about 43,400 people live in Thirumangalam. The female to male ratio is 50: 50. Between 1991 and 2001, the population increased by 50 percent. A farmer told us that more and more workers are moving to the village because of the increase in employment opportunities in the fields. Currently, the floating population of the town exceeds that of its permanent residents.

is because of the many educational institutes in the village. There are more than six higher secondary schools, two high schools and even two colleges. Thirumangalam also has the pride of having one of the two Government Homeopathy Colleges in Tamil Nadu. According to a resident, 100 percent of the children on the village attend school every day. This is sadly not common in other rural areas because the children are often forced to help on the fields instead of getting educated.

The literacy rate in Thirumangalam is 80 percent, which is higher than the national average of 60 percent. This

Production and Labour In Tirumangalam nearly 24 percent of

Fields next to the house of Gandhi and Chitras family. Gandhi (70) desires to have more water for agriculture in future.

Madurai Messenger Village Voices November 2011

Dor: Of love and Redemption

Problems The dependence on rain water poses a big problem for all farmers in the village. They do not have a safety net in times of drought because there are not enough reservoirs to compensate for the lack of water. This is why Gandhi and Suriyan want a dam to be constructed near by. The main problem faced by people like Jayaraman is that the labourers are being paid increasingly more than the farmers whose income is going down. This is a fall out of governmental development aid for rural areas. The 100-day working scheme, which brings increased earnings for Gandhi and Suriyan, means a big problem for factory owners.

The employment provided by the government is easy and the pay attractive. In the absence of dependable employment in the villages, many people flock to this work. This means a lack of workers for the village. According to Jayaraman, the working scheme makes the people lazy because they need not take up hard work to get a good income. Another governmental program which makes the people lazy is the free rice and the free oil which is given to the villages. The government issues food to the people with the aim to eradicate poverty. But people don’t come to work because they get everything free.

Rice spread in front of the Rice Mill

The unusual story of two women whose lives are intertwined by destiny and how the love and friendship that develops between them finally heals and sets them free. By Lea Schunk Luebeck, Germany

The representative of the farmers, Jayaraman (65), is looking ahead to better days for agriculture

A second reason that reduces the income of the farmer is the intermediary persons. They buy the crops from the farmer at low prices and sell it to the government. But the price they sell it for is much higher than the buying price, so they earn a lot of money while the farmers get paid a pittance.

Prospects Agriculture in Thirumangalam is developing fast and consequently, a lot of problems will be solved during the next couple of years. Nearby, a

dam and tanks to store water are to be constructed to reduce dependence on rain water. The lack of labourers can be offset by the agricultural machinery revolution. For a couple of years, they had only manpower but no machines on the fields. Now tractors and other vehicles are replacing labourers. This is less expensive because one machine can replace ten men. Furthermore, research develops very fast. At TNAU, they have a lot of innovative ideas for improvement. In future new crops will be used to ensure a higher yield and new pesticides introduced. Despite all the improvements, the adverse impacts cannot be ignored. The machinery revolution also means a loss of employment, environmental pollution and ecological imbalance. A decrease in the genetic variety of the crops makes the grain more vulnerable to environmental influences and pests. And the use of chemicals will cause problems for the land (such as reduced soil fertility), the animals and also the humans in Tirumangalam. Probably the people will reconnect to their native wisdom and the heritage of traditional knowledge to address these problems in a concerted manner with their social commitment and modern education.

Title: Dor Cast: Ayesha Takia, Gul Panag, Shreyas Talpade Publisher: Nagesh Kukunoor Language: Hindi

or is a 2006 Hindi film which is about two women from different backgrounds coming together because of their common destiny. Meera (Ayesha Takia), a young woman who becomes a widow shortly after marriage, is trapped by tradition. Zeenat (Gul Panag), on the other hand, tries to save the life of her husband, who is on trial for murder. An actor (Shreyas Talpade) helps her reach Meera, who is the only person, who can help her to save her husband. The companionship that develops between Meera and Zeenat results in redemption for both. The film consolidates love, loss, friendship and hope in a way, which makes this movie so special and impressive, that you are touched by its sensitivity and perceptive characterization. Dor belongs to the social genre of films and explores situations that have a parallel to reality. The main characters are from totally different religions with different views of life. Zeenat (Gul) is a confident and selfassured Muslim woman who lives in Himachal Pradesh and Meera (Ayesha), a traditional and conservative Rajput woman who lives in Rajasthan. After

the death of Meera’s husband, society takes away her right to live a life of her choice. She wants to live the way her late husband wanted her to. She wants to smile, enjoy music and dance, eat good food, talk with friends and family members, and wear dresses of her own choice. But every time she starts feeling better, social conventions and traditions stifle her. She finds it difficult to step beyond the rigid boundaries of religion and society. The desire to be authentic to her feelings and wishes forms the basis of her friendship with Zeenat. She helps her to rediscover life and helps her to realize that a person’s feelings are more important than tradition and man made laws. Encouraged by Zeenat to live a life of her own, she takes her first hesitant steps

in this direction. The rest of the movie unfolds as a beautiful story of friendship between two very different women who, despite their differences, are also so similar. They stand up for each other and live a way of faith and self-belief. The narrative unfolds a serious theme of discrimination against women and patriarchal practices in an engaging and non threatening manner. Another highlight of this film is the joy of helping others unconditionally. The range of emotions and a sensitive story narrated from a woman’s perspective, the music and dance that give it a fair tale quality is what makes Dor a fascinating film, even for someone who is not a fan of Bollywood films.

Madurai Messenger First Impressions November 2011

A City of Differences Lea Schunk writes about her experiences in this colourful City, as she calls it and admits that she just can’t wait to explore more about this exciting and lively City. By Lea Schunk Germany

y first thought when I arrived at the Madurai airport was “Oh God, help me!” There were so many people and the air was full of different and weird smells. Some women wore saris and flowers on their heads while some wore formal outfits. In addition to this, at the airport, I saw a man who ordered his wife to sit down, while on the Television above them, a nearly naked woman danced. It was crazy!

lungies and women wearing a hijab. I have never seen so much sadness and happiness in the same place. On one hand, I saw happy children laughing all the time, girls with beautiful braided black hair and on the other hand, poor men and women sitting on the ground begging for money. I could not understand these differences and for this moment it was too hard for me to accept that this is reality; my reality for the next three months.

I couldn’t understand the Indian culture- Had I arrived in a different world, where women had no power or had I arrived in a world of bizarre differences? I was lost between the new impressions and gradually, I realized that this would be my new home for the next three months.

Then we started to approach the city, the traffic was chaotic and barbaric. I could not understand the principle behind it, everyone was just honking! I was scared and fascinated at the same time. After an hour, we arrived at my host family.

My adventure started when I took the flight from Bengaluru to Madurai. Would this fragile looking plane bring me to my new home? I was scared and thought these would be my last few minutes on earth. However, I’m still alive! When I arrived at the airport, a driver was already waiting for me. At first, he took me to my host family’s house. Although I was so tired, I could not sleep because there was so much to see! We drove through little villages where the people were staring at us, where cows, dogs and chicken, ran across the street. I saw children wearing school uniforms, men wearing

My host mum welcomed me with open arms and an open mind and she showed me my room for the next three months. When I ate Indian food for the first time, I thought it would be difficult for me to get accustomed but later started liking the spicy dishes. Madurai is a city full of differences; especially the divide between the rich and the poor. I think this is why it is so difficult to get used to it. Nevertheless, Madurai seems to be an extraordinary city with many impressive aspects. That is the reason for me being so excited about the next three months of my stay here in Madurai. I am really looking forward to getting a taste of this colourful City!