February - 2013

F

ree

February 2013

Volume 2, Issue 39

Sponsored by:

1

Vedanthangal: India’s Oldest Bird Sanctuary Plus: Film Makers Anjali Monteiro and K.P.Jayasankar: Telling Untold Stories

Editor

Contents

February 2013 | Issue No. 39

Dr. Nandini Murali Copy Editor Bhuvana Venkatesh Journalism Supervisor B. Pooja Journalism Administrator G. Durgairajan Designer & Technical Support T. Jesuraja Reporters & Photographers Salome Becker Hanae Araki Isabelle Brotherton-Ratcliffe Adele Eude 2

Laetitia Saplana Brydee Streader

EDITOR’S CORNER

01 Monarch of the Mountains COVER STORY

02 Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary:

Where Birds of Different Feathers Flock Together PASSION

10 Pal Pandi: A Walking Bird Encyclopedia 12 Dr. Badri: A Bird Watcher’s Perfect Vision 14 Saro Jayasri: A Sense of Wonder PEACOCK TRAIL

16 On the Peacock Trail in Viralimalai SPORT

19 Pigeon Posts: From Messenger to Racer BIRDS AS PETS

22 A Golden Cage ARTS

24 Birds: A Symbol of Freedom of the Spirit Cover Photograph Suresh Elamon

PEOPLE

26 Unheard Voices, Untold Stories BIRDS EYE VIEW

28 Flight of the Robin BOOK REVIEW Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd., Contact: editor@maduraimessenger.org MADURAI MESSENGER No. 17, T.P.K Road Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269

30 Ode to Birds 32 Healing through Love and Redemption FILMS

34 Bizarre Bird Behaviour 36 Song of the Lesser Flamingo VILLAGE VOICES

38 Vedanthangal: Bonding with Birds

EDITOR’S CORNER

Monarch of the Mountains

I

n the eternal silence of the crisp mountain air, we can hear ourselves.

Undulating hills, green meadows, gurgling streams, wind whistling through the trees, songs of the birds, and the rise and fall of our breaths…. Such are the sounds in silence.

This the picture postcard perfect Eravikulam National Park in Idukki district of Kerala. Bordering the southern fringe of this 97 sq. km. national park is the majestic Anamudi peak. It derives its name from the Tamil language because of its resemblance to an elephant’s forehead. The 2695 m (8842 feet) peak is the highest peak south of the Himalayas.

Here, in this national park, the flagship species is the famous Nilgiri tahr. This stocky high altitude mountain goat (Nilgiritragus hylocrius) is endemic to the Western Ghats. George Schaller, the legendary American field biologist described the Nilgiri Tahr as the “mountain monarch.” Popularly known in Tamil as varai aadu, which means ‘mountain goat’, it inhabits grasslands adjoining rocky cliffs and mountain precipices. The nimble footed goat executes acrobatic leaps across sheer perpendicular cliffs. Surely, no one can be as sure footed as a mountain goat!

From the entrance of the national park, tourists are taken in mini buses to Rajamalai, the tourism zone. The bus alights near the information centre that provides visitors a comprehensive overview of the history and special features of Eravikulam National Park.

The stars of the national park, of course, are the Nilgiri tahrs. Nowhere else but in Rajamalai are such close encounters with these shy mountain goats possible. But do remember, they are wild goats and hence resist your urge to pet them or pose for photographs with them!

Not long ago they were on the brink of extinction, but the efforts of a few conservationists and strict protection measures saved the animal from becoming a mere memory. Today Eravikulam has the largest viable population of the Nilgiri tahrs. Out of the total 2000 or so, about 800 live here. The park is closed every year from January to March to coincide with the arrival of the newborn tahrs.

Yes, in the forests lurk ecological treasures that we don’t know or care about, and yet these are the secrets that have sustained the planet for billions of years.

Why do we need to protect and conserve our natural heritage?

As Mahmoud Darwish, the late Palestinian poet so beautifully said, “Because the Earth is closing on us…. Where should we go after the last frontier? Where should the birds fly after the last sky? Where should the plants sleep after the last breath of air?”

It is clearly now or never.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

42 Koncham Koncham… Nandri…

43 Touching Indian Soil

Dr. nandini murali Editor

1

Madurai Messenger Cover Story February 2013

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary:

Where Birds of Different Feathers Flock Together The 200-year-old Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, one of the oldest in the country, is a paradise for bird watchers and ornithologists. On a visit, during the peak migratory season, Isabelle Brotherton Ratcliffe not only sees several birds, most of them for the first time, but also realizes that the vibrant community-led conservation of birds is also a shining example that sustainable conservation initiatives is everybody’s responsibility and perhaps the only way to save many life forms on earth from becoming a mere memory

By Isabelle Brotherton Ratcliffe United Kingdom

C.Sampath, watcher of the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary Prof.Norazmi Mohamad Nor, University SAINS of Malaysia, helping his son view the habitats of the water nesting birds with the help of a pair of binoculars

2

The sanctuary’s documented history began towards the end of the 18th century when it was known as a place for birds to collect and the people of the village complained that British soldiers were shooting them we reached the sanctuary entrance, a gateway carved into the shape of two trees with birds upon its branches, that the avian theme became more obvious.

We walked along a raised pathway, with Bonnet Macaque monkeys playing above our heads and a pair of spectacular centipedes on the ground, which mesmerised me with the efficiency and coordination of their movement.

V

edanthangal Bird Sanctuary rightfully deserves its reputation as a place of pilgrimage for

Indian ornithologists, but it makes only a discreet impact on its surroundings.

Situated 75 kilometers south west of Chennai and approachable only

by country roads, there are no garish displays to advertise its presence, or large direction signs, until a few hundred metres before the entrance where a sun bleached wall becomes visible, covered in paintings of birds and their identifications.

Avian paradise We had gone to Vedanthangal at the peak of the migratory season when the numbers of birds nesting there are at their greatest, but there is no clue in the approach to the concentration of birds to be seen. It was not until

However, these were not what we had come to see, and nothing could have prepared me for the jaw dropping sight of the multitude of large white and grey birds - open billed storks - settling in the branches of half submerged trees that we saw from a viewing tower. There was not as much noise as I would have expected from such a crowd, but the movement was constant, some smaller birds such as moorhens paddling in

the water, others apparently fishing or foraging, flying back and forth from nests which are as yet without the chicks for which they are being prepared.

Bird-friendly spaces There are several different kinds of trees, which provide nesting platforms for these birds, but all are semi submerged which gives an appearance of recent flooding. When I asked about this, I learned that many of the trees, such as the Barringtonia acacia, grow naturally in the water and that the water in which they stand is a natural reservoir so the water surrounding them is in fact normal. There is human intervention, however, in the building up of the embankment, known as the bund, and in the construction of a viewing tower and platforms at intervals around the lake. The latter are set out with

benches where bird watchers can sit in anticipation of all that their binoculars will show them. There are also regularly spaced water taps set into the bills of bird statues or the jaws of animals – my favourite being a zebra in whose nose a tap could be turned to provide water.

A tradition of community-led conservation Vedanthangal has a long association with birds, going back two hundred years in documented history and longer than that in village memory. The area known as the Vedanthangal Lake Bird Sanctuary covers 73 acres and is a large reservoir, bordered by a natural mud bank, together with a myriad of smaller lakes and ponds which combine to provide a large expanse of watery nesting sites suitable for water birds.

3

Madurai Messenger Cover Story February 2013

4

Prof.Niksoriani and her daughter Nik interacting with our MM team

As one of my interviewees pointed out, among the twelve staff of the sanctuary, there are only four guards, who could not possibility protect all the birds, so it is the people of the village who are their guardians The sanctuary’s documented history began towards the end of the 18th century when it was known as a place for birds to collect and the people of the village complained that British soldiers were shooting them. In 1798, the British Collector of Chingleput District instituted a ban on bird shooting, thus establishing a precedent for the protection laws which were to follow. In 1858, the embargo was reinforced to preserve the area and protect the birds. Protection measures continued in this century: in1936, the area was denoted a sanctuary and in the 1960s, local politician Venkata Subba Reddy MLA (in office from 1957 to 1967) took up the cause. In 1962, the area was elevated to reserve forest status, and in 1968, Subba Reddy recommended that it should become an

official sanctuary and four years later, in 1972, Vedanthangal was inaugurated as a formal wildlife sanctuary.

It has played host to a number of India’s most distinguished ornithologists and naturalists, notably Salim Ali and M. Krishnan respectively. The latter describes a friendly discussion about bird conservation, conducted on the bund, with Salim Ali who had been closely involved with the formalisation of Vedanthangal’s status as a bird sanctuary. It added a frisson of interest to my visit to know that I was standing on the bund, as they had, looking at a view, which is unchanged from the day they enjoyed it together.

This makes Vedanthangal one of the oldest, and longest running, bird

sanctuaries in India, which in itself is something special, but what makes it so very remarkable, and so unusual, is the way the surrounding villagers have bonded together to protect the bird colonies. Vedanthangal is known for 26 kinds of water nesting birds (as opposed to tree or ground nesting birds) including some of the largest specimens - storks and pelicans - as well as the many other birds that live on waterborne insects, fish, frogs and snails. There are other sanctuaries, which can boast a wider range of avian visitors - it is said that at Koonthankullam, for example, there are 236 kinds of birds - but I doubt if any other place can boast such loyalty from their migratory visitors, or such community support from their human neighbours.

A unique symbiosis between people and birds There are approximately 2,000 people in the rural communities in the Vedanthangal area and it is their presence and their attitude to the birds

Isabelle interviewing C.Sampath, watcher of Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

Well known naturalist M. Krishnan describes a friendly discussion about bird conservation, conducted on the bund, with the famous ornithologist Salim Ali who had been closely involved with the formalisation of Vedanthangal’s status as a bird sanctuary

around them that has made it such an extraordinary example of the symbiotic relationship that is possible when humans work with nature. Decisions affecting the people in the village are taken in communal panchayats (village council meetings). For hundreds of years, they have protected the birds and now, this is bringing them to the point of putting their own lives second. It is known that birds do not like bright light and loud noise, so the people in the area surrounding the sanctuary have a self-imposed moratorium on lamps at night and agreements to keep noise to a low level. This is particularly obvious during Diwali when the rest of India is setting off as many fireworks as possible; whereas here there are only very small and limited firecrackers. Also, the level of the water in the reservoir is

kept high so that the birds can nest in it safely, although this may mean that the people in the surrounding areas reduce their own usage. As one of the people we spoke to said, “If there is no water, there are no birds.” It is a simple dictum but not one that everyone would find easy to keep in mind when it also involves a ban on fishing in the lake or boating on it.

In their turn, the birds unwittingly help the villagers; firstly by eating insects, which means there is no need to use insecticides on the local crops. On the day we visited, there were squadrons of dragonflies hovering around us and I wondered if they were aware of how close they may have been to consumption by any one of the 45,000 hungry birds not far away.

Birds, an agricultural boon The local crop is rice, which has a three-month cycle in waterlogged fields. The seeds are planted and harvested four times a year. Rice needs constant irrigation and this is where the contribution of the birds is easy to measure. Both statistics and village lore confirm that there is always a higher crop yield of rice from fields, which have been watered from the lake. It has now been explained that this is a result of the droppings the birds deposit in the water turning to guano, which raises the nitrogen level in the water thus making it a highly efficient fertiliser. Water is channelled from the reservoir in an age-old custom of shared irrigation so that water flows are diverted on a daily

5

Madurai Messenger Cover Story February 2013

Whatever time of day the birds shake themselves awake. Apparently 8.30 p.m. is the universal nesting time after which there is a “pin drop silence”

basis to produce a rotation pattern of irrigation and ensure equal advantage to all the farmers in the affected area. Birds can also be important in the dispersal of seeds - many of which need water to germinate – by eating them and then depositing them in a wider area.

Stringent conservation laws

6

Maintaining this harmonious life style comes at a price. Literally. There is now a law to prevent any building or development (and its attendant noise and disturbance) within a 5-kilometre radius of the sanctuary. This means that the value of the land in this designated area is lower than it would otherwise be, and will remain so. There is a Forest Department embargo on people from outside the area buying any land within the 5 km area. This means that land can only by bought and sold amongst the people in the villages but when I asked about difficulties in negotiating prices in a limited market, E. Vedachalam, a local resident and politician, told us that there was a fixed price, accepted by the people, and there was generally no difficulty in effecting sales at this price.

The locals themselves are aware that their attention to the needs of the birds encapsulates them in an almost artificially old fashioned lifestyle and certainly they would welcome more modern amenities, most of all a local medical centre. However, the consensus appears to be that such improvements would be for short term gain at the cost of losing something more valuable – the presence of the birds, and a common trust which has built up over the centuries and could be lost in a matter of months.

One man’s passion for birds The sanctuary is open from 9.30 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. from November to June and has twelve employees. We met C. Sampath (25) who has been working there for two years as a monitor of the bird colonies, looking for irregularities in the numbers of any particular

they can confirm whether it is the same birds coming back every year.

In the summer months, from July to October when the birds are in their colder homelands, the sanctuary is closed and humans give a hand to nature by improving the nest sites for the birds. In the hot months the reservoir eventually runs dry thus making the normally submerged ground and trees both visible and accessible.

The sanctuary staff can clear dead trees and plant new ones. Sampath emphasises that this is a natural area – if it were artificially created it would not work, he says – and it seems that there are some ways in which humans can help nature along.

Such a long avian journey

Pelicans roosting on the trees

From Left: Volunteers Isabelle and Hanae at the entrance to the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

Perhaps it is now time to turn attention to the sanctuary and to make it more widely known, outside the birding community, with teaching amenities and tours for newcomers like me, who before coming here had paid so little attention to birds and their lives, can now learn just how intriguing birds in their natural habitat can be

species, and as a guide. He was a quiet and serious seeming young man but spoke easily of his love of birds and the pleasure he takes in his job. His first inspiration came from reading the books of the legendary ornithologist Salim Ali, and from this his interest in birds developed through working with senior ornithologists whom he credits for giving him a ‘real time interest’ rather than just the knowledge garnered from books.

He is clearly a man in the right job and talked about some of the responsibilities which go with it. These can include the practical matters of maintaining safety

and cleanliness at the sanctuary, and identifying and talking about the birds to visitors. However, it can also have its gentler side and Sampath described how he had taken care of a painted stork chick, which had fallen out of its nest into the water. Sampath and his colleagues feed these helpless nestlings on fish until they are strong enough to fish for themselves. In answer to my question he assured us that birds do recognise humans and that those which have been rescued in this way return to their human helpers even after their migratory absences. In these cases, the sanctuary takes the opportunity to ring the birds with an identification tag so

Birds come to Vedanthangal because they know it is safe and the pattern of their lives calls for them to leave their countries of origin, which may be as far away as Siberia, Canada, Australia, and Europe to escape the cold winters. As they remain in the northern hemisphere, it is in fact winter, but so much warmer that it allows them to build nests, lay eggs and incubate them without the hazards of cold temperatures and shortages of food.

For most of the birds at Vedanthangal, their eggs hatch in January and their chicks need feeding until March. By June and July, the young have become strong enough to accompany their parents on the long flights back and, as one of the experts to whom we spoke pointed out, if 45,000 to 50,000 birds arrive in the sanctuary each year, it will be more than double the number who return. In addition to this, there are also

7

Madurai Messenger Cover Story February 2013

“All birds are my children,” he said, but went on to describe the pleasure of hearing the song of the grey billed heron early in the morning

Watchers of the Vedanthangal Birds Sanctuary at the entrance

A small dam controls the water level of the sanctuary

8

As one of the people we spoke to said, “If there is no water, there are no birds.” It is a simple dictum but not one that everyone would find easy to keep in mind when it also involves a ban on fishing in the lake or boating on it birds nesting in the area that may fly to Vedanthangal daily in search of the security and rich fodder they will find here.

Only the fittest survive The dangers to which birds may be subject come from both natural and human predators. Natural predators are limited as the water isolates the birds’ nests from carnivorous mammals, and there are no bird predators to swoop down on nests and carry off chicks.

The human threat has historically been from members of the Narikuravar tribe who are nomadic hunters and who view the birds as food. Shooting of birds is no longer a problem as this has been banned for over two hundred years and there is now legislation to

outlaw the hunting activities of the Narikuravar as well.

I asked about another form of bird hunting – collectors of eggs who in some countries have been known to pay enormous amounts to add rare eggs to their collections. Apparently this is not a major threat, although it too is guarded by protective legislation with consequences of both prison sentences and monetary fines. As one of my interviewees pointed out, amongst the twelve staff of the sanctuary there are only four guards, who could not possibility protect all the birds, so it is the people of the village who are their guardians. I imagine the birds sleep safely, secure in the knowledge that they have such a vigilant band of defenders.

In a frivolous afterthought, I asked E. Vedachallam what was his favourite bird but the question caused him no difficulty. “All birds are my children,” he said, but went on to describe the pleasure of hearing the song of the grey billed heron early in the morning.

The heron and the open billed storks are the earliest risers at 4.00 a.m. and lead the morning chorus as other birds wake in their turn. Whatever time of day the birds shake themselves awake.

Apparently 8.30 p.m. is the universal nesting time after which there is a “pin drop silence.” Clearly the habits of all the birds, individually and as a group, are well known to all who care about them and whose own lives may be attuned to those of the birds they prize so highly.

The way forward Vedanthangal is a well-known bird watching destination and currently has approximately 600 visitors from Monday to Friday and 2,000 over the weekends. The sanctuary aims to be self-supporting, but is in fact also funded by the Government of Tamil

“There was not as much noise as I would have expected from such a crowd, but the movement was constant, some smaller birds such as moorhens paddling in the water, others apparently fishing or foraging, flying back and forth from nests which are as yet without the chicks for which they are being prepared” Vedanthangal: A Birds Paradise

Nadu through the central Ministry of Environment and Forests. In 1967, a rest house was built for official visitors to the area and there is now talk of building a lodge for tourists (at the 5 km boundary line to prevent the associated noise and lights causing disturbance to the birds).

It seems to me, however, that more could be done in the short term, which would not in any way violate either the people of the village, the birds, or the relationship between the two.

A first measure could be the provision of guides, pamphlets, or other printed material for visitors to study during their visit, perhaps outlining the history of the site, emphasising its rarity, and explaining something about the lives of the birds it nurtures. In all my conversations with those whose lives are touched by this extraordinary place I heard much about the people of the village, whose altruistic love of these birds has done so much to help them, and of the birds themselves. Perhaps it is now time to turn attention to the sanctuary and to make it more widely known, outside the birding community, with teaching amenities and tours for newcomers like me, who before coming here had paid so little attention to birds and their lives, can now learn just how intriguing birds in their natural habitat can be.

9

Madurai Messenger Passion February 2013

PalPandi:

A Walking Bird Encyclopedia Hanae Arake meets Palpandi, the well-known self-taught bird watcher of Koonthankulam and is humbled by his intensity and and lifelong passion for the winged creatures whom he considers his children

By Hanae Araki Japan

A superficial attitude didn’t seem to be enough in front of him, because he has put all his energy into his lifework, bird-watching

they lose some companions, they never give up. They never think of turning back to the starting point. They make straight for the destination despite many difficulties such as adverse weather conditions or lack of food.

Birdman is the one of the documentaries in which Palpandi has been featured. However, in my eyes, he was not a “man.” Birds are not mere animals that are to be observed. No one can separate him from the birds. Bird watching has been his life. Like a bird himself, he heads straight for the goal: to live with, watch over and protect birds and further to secure a bright future for them. Even when he felt the emptiness of life after losing his wife Vallithai (who shared his passion for birds) in 2008, he devoted himself to birds more intensely to cover the loss. What makes migratory birds stay on the flight path is the instinct to reach their destination, and what has made Palpandi keep working is the love of birds.

10

Bonding with birds

From Left-Volunteers Laetitia, Adele and Hanae with S.Pal Pandi (58), the passionate bird watcher

T

he black eyes were keen. They looked like those of an eagle, eyes which found a small brown egg lying on the dry ground from a distance, whose color was so similar to the surroundings that I hadn’t noticed it until he pointed at it. When I looked into the eyes of S. Palpandi (58) to greet

him for the first time, I was actually overwhelmed by the strong belief in them. They were asking me silently, “Why have you come here?” I dared not return his look. A superficial attitude didn’t seem to be enough in front of him, because he has put all his energy into his lifework, bird-watching.

A consuming passion Every year, many migratory birds visit the sanctuary in Koonthankulam where he has been working as a nature guide for nearly 30 years. Some of the birds come here, flying more than 2500 km. The journey is filled with so many challenges that some birds die during it. Even if

Love for nature and a love of birds are inseparable. He repeated these two words over and over. Without them, one can never be a good bird watcher nor should one start bird watching lightly. If you want to be a bird watcher, you have to love nature, just as Palpandi, does, communing with nature and planting many trees with his wife. “When I was a child I wondered why others didn’t pay much attention to it,” he recalls. His love

for them isn’t confined to his job; he has also written many poems, songs and even a book on birds and nature, some of which have even received awards.

Moreover, you need to learn everything about nature and birds; how they grow, how they feed, where they nest, when they bring up their chicks, and especially what they want. Though Palpandi sounded strict and uncompromising as a birder, it’s because he really takes birds seriously and his commitment to them is absolute. Besides, he always shares his knowledge and enthusiasm for birds with people who share his passion. He believes that with love and passion, you can achieve anything in your life.

In short, whether you want to be a genuine bird watcher or not depends on your individual commitment and dedication. Some people ask him many questions about birds. Others visit this sanctuary and just say, “Oh, there are only cranes here,” although they see several species of birds. And further, Palpandi is also annoyed that there are people who upload pictures on the internet without mentioning the name of this sanctuary or him, as if they discovered this paradise for birds.

Mentor for new birders Although passion is a prerequisite for bird watching, we need something else in order to be a great bird watcher. An excellent guide book such as the one

written by the legendary ornithologist Salim Ali, is a must. But merely reading books is not enough. And also, it is really difficult for beginners at bird watching to learn everything by themselves. That is why many researchers and students come to him not only from India but also from all over the world, for Palpandi is a “living bird encyclopedia,” who knows everything about birds! Some of them stay here to learn about birds for more than a year. Some kinds of birds learn how to sing by hearing parent birds. For many years, Palpandi has been a mentor for fresh bird watchers, and continues to share his passion.

Next year, he retires from his current job, a government post. The state government may request him to train his successor. He is eager to teach anyone interested in bird watching.

“My knowledge shouldn’t die with me,” he says matter-of-factly. He is thinking of involving his son, who is also a bird lover, in the sanctuary or even establishing an institution with him if someone sponsors them financially. For “it would be an effective and better way to teach many fresh birders,” he said.

Sometimes during the interview, his eyes were turned to the sky, looking up at birds flying freely in the sky.

With such passion as his, we can achieve anything. When I shook hands with him, I again met his eyes. They were still keen, but this time I didn’t turn my eyes away. Then, when I looked, I found the warmth at the bottom of those eyes. He smiled, and it gave me courage. He is not a mere teacher of birds: here, even though it was a brief encounter, I met a “parent bird.” His eyes never lost warmth and power and he will keep flying until the day he arrives at the destination, leading many young birds and birders.

Pal Pandi is also annoyed that there are people who upload pictures on the internet without mentioning the name of this sanctuary or him, as if they discovered this paradise for birds

11

Madurai Messenger Passion February 2013

Dr.Badri Narayanan- Ophthalmologist and bird watcher

Dr. Badri:

the Taj Mahal were one of the species facing extinction. When I asked him what the most memorable event for him was, his grave face smiled slightly and he recalled that trip. There, he found endangered vultures. “Living birds are far more important to me than a monument for the dead.” His mind was on the birds and not on the world heritage site that every tourist longs to see!

A Bird Watcher’s Perfect Vision Few people are able to artfully balance the twin commitments of a profession and a passion. Hanae Araki is in conversation with city-based ophthalmologist Dr T. Badri Narayanan on his passion for bird watching and his 360° perspective on birds and their impact on human lives

A people’s movement for conservation

By Hanae Araki

Thus, for decades, many species have been in danger and the day might come when we can see these birds only in books or pictures. The fewer birds there are, the less a bird watcher can enjoy seeing birds. A real bird watcher such as Dr.Badri is always alert for an opportunity to bird watch. However, it is not enough that only bird watchers pay attention to the problem. The measures against the dangers of extinction shouldn’t be a one-person programme; everyone in society should be aware of it and participate in conservation. Every human activity can affect birds and birds also have an effect on human activities.

Japan

Balancing a profession and a passion

Dr. Badri zooming in on the birds

12

I

f Palpandi is the person of “heart,” Dr. T. Badri Narayanan is the person of “mind.” The former told us about the spirit of a bird watcher and the essence of bird watching, and the latter taught the details and the perspective of bird watching. During the interview with Dr. Badri, his calm and logical talk reminded me of the fact that he is a famous ophthalmologist as well as a passionate bird watcher. Not only his way of talking but also his views on bird watching were related to “eyesight.”

The macro and micro perspectives “To take new technology and use it well,” he answered when he was asked

what the key to enjoying bird watching is. New technology is nothing but optical devices such as binoculars. When we use it, we can enjoy magnified figures of birds, beautiful feathers and beady eyes. Without it, we can enjoy the sight of a flock flying in the blue sky with a hill or mountain for a background—the big picture, but we tend to miss out on details. Dr. Badri explained various aspects of bird watching including bird hunting and the effect of agriculture or tourism, and it was as if we looked through the binoculars and then took them off; his talk moved between the detail and the whole concept of bird watching, weaving his own experiences into them.

According to him, what is most important in bird watching is “observation” that is, “to spend more time going out and bird watching.”

As he himself has been struggling to secure time for bird watching, he really knows the value of time. There are many elements in our life: work, hobbies, a family and so on. Sometimes they conflict with each other and everything demands more time. To fully concentrate on one thing might be much easier than to manage all of them. Sometimes you have to sacrifice some of them. When he was talking about the balance between the profession and the hobby, he seemed not to be fully satisfied with the current balance. He himself has made sacrifices as a bird watcher. However, he seemed to strongly believe that we can do it if we try. Indeed, he is hard pressed for time because of work, yet he often goes bird watching especially on Sundays.

In addition to juggling time that way, he has come up with another idea to meet the many requirements in his life. One of the answers was on the mugs in which his wife, Saraswati, served coffee to us; there were many detailed paintings of various birds. In short, he has won his family over to bird watching! Thus he has accomplished much in his life, which makes him appear like a superman. His insatiable attitude has made it possible and behind the success, are dilemmas

Web of life Dr. Badri explained various aspects of bird watching including bird hunting and the effect of agriculture or tourism, and it was as if we looked through the binoculars and then took them off; his talk moved between the detail and the whole concept of bird watching, weaving his own experiences into them and endeavor. It is just like the swan swimming in the lake, gracefully moving its legs hard below the surface.

This year, in spare moments from his work, he took part in the two-day bird census which was conducted by the Kerala forest department in Munnar, together with other bird watchers like him and students of the forestry college as fresh birders. The activity aims to measure the approximate number of birds and use it as an index to compare

with the next census and those results help us to know whether the numbers have increased or decreased between the two censuses. What is more important is to infer the cause of the change; especially when the number decreases, in which case, we need to solve the problem and prevent further decrease.

On the whole, the number of wild birds in India has been decreasing gradually.

The birds he saw during a family trip to

Everything is linked to each other in an eco-system. If bird numbers decrease, farmers have to use more fertilizer instead of their guano, or use more agricultural chemicals and insecticide if birds do not eat insects, which can cause a financial burden not just to farmers but consumers too. And what is more, it will threaten the safety of food. The lives of birds are closely connected to our lives. So, such a bird census to infer the causes of the change is essential for the future generation of all of birds, bird watchers and non bird watchers.

“Keep the mind open,” that is to say, keep the eyes of your mind open. These were Dr Badri’s message for young and new birders. We, both birders and non birders, need eyes and binoculars not only to view birds close and at a distance but also to envision the future of birds and humans.

13

Madurai Messenger Passion February 2013

Saro Jayasri:

A Sense of Wonder Just 11 years of age, Saro Jaysri’s fascination for birds began when she was 7 years old. The daughter of passionate bird watchers Dr Badri Narayanan and his wife Saraswati, Saro’s “black eyes twinkle with wonder” when she talks about birds, about whom she already knows quite a lot!

One of the keys to enjoy and develop a sustained interest in bird watching is to have someone with whom we can share the pleasure of bird watching

By Hanae Araki Japan

Saro Jayshri proudly holds her favourite book on birds

14

R

achel Carson, who was an American marine biologist well known for Silent Spring (1962), wrote in another book, The Sense of Wonder (1965) in which she asserts that every child has a sense of wonder; the ability to feel and wonder about nature and its mystery. I saw the same sense of wonder in Saro Jayasri (11), the little daughter of ophthalmologist and bird watcher Dr Badri. Her shy smile reminded me of my childhood when I would to run around in the field and feel the breeze and bask in the sun, listening to the songs of birds.

The ordinariness of bird watching You might be inclined to believe that bird watching means deep forests and high-performance binoculars. Actually, it is not always true. Saro has been watching birds at the bus stop on the way to school. This reminded me of the many birds flying around the big tree on the way home from our office. We often miss the fact that many birds live close by and around us. Birds are here. Often we take them for granted and don’t pay much attention to them. This, in turn, means that we can bird watch almost anywhere, if we want to.

A fellowship of birders Unfortunately her friends don’t seem to be interested in birds and she has hardly

15 Saro Jayashri- Like father, like daughter

“We often miss the fact many birds living close by and around us. Birds are here.

Often we take them for granted and don’t pay much attention to them. This, in turn, means that we can bird watch almost anywhere if we want to”

talked about birds with them, but at least she has a great coach and companion-- her parents! Needless to say, her father, Dr. Badri has taught her a lot about birds. The books on birds which he bought for himself has been an educational tool for his daughter. Saro often goes bird watching with her parents. “Because it is the only way to spend time with my husband on holidays,” says Saraswati, with a laugh. One of the keys to enjoying and developing a sustained interest in bird watching is to have someone with whom we can share the pleasure of bird watching.

This environment fostered Saro’s natural affection not only for birds but also for nature. Saro confessed that she was too young when she bird watched for the first time to remember anything. Now she loves not only birds but also other animals,

especially dogs! When asked whether she wanted to take up a profession related to birds, she nodded. But her mother soon added smilingly that Saro wants to be a veterinarian so that she can keep many dogs in her house!

Rachel Carson has written about the sense of wonder as follows: “A child’s world is fresh and new and beautiful, full or wonder and excitement. It is our misfortune that for most of us that clear-eyed vision, that true instinct for what is beautiful and awe-inspiring is dimmed and even lost before we reach adulthood.” This sentence derives from her own experience of taking a long walk to admire nature with her young child, just like Saro and her parents. While talking about birds, Saro’s black eyes were indeed twinkling with the sense of wonder.

Madurai Messenger Peacock Trail February 2013

On the Peacock Trail in Viralimalai

Photo: Sudeep Elamon

“The birds of Viralimalai are fearless,” says P. Mookaya. He has a fierce resentment towards any threats towards the birds; at the temple, these threats come in the form of monkeys

The temple town of Viralimalai is as famous for its Murugan Temple as its fabulous peacocks, the national bird of the country. Traditionally, the people and the peacock have bonded intimately and is a prime example for the fact that for conservation to be truly effective, its needs the total participation of the common people, and not just conservationists and star crusaders

By Brydee Streader Australia

The gorgeous avian beauty

As blue as the peacock’s neck

16

17

top of the central granite hill. The impressive temple is more than 2000 years old, and was created in honour of Lord Murugan, who took on the form of the peacock. The temple is the most vital component of the town.

An ambassador of prosperity

P.Mookaya, stall employee, at Viralimalai, explains the heritage and history of peacocks at the holy mountains of the temple town

T

he peacock is majestic, multihued, mesmerising and worthy of its crown as the national bird of India.

Projecting power and elegance at once, these birds represent the colour, the beauty and the grace of the country and her people. If any place holds a deep connection to the peacock, it is

Viralimalai near Tiruchy in south India.

Not only do they represent a spiritual and religious aspect of the town, they bring to it tourism, good fortune in farming and the people are dedicated to protecting and conserving this iconic creature.

Twin attractions: the Murugan temple and the peacock Viralimalai, rich and green with vegetation, is a relatively small town situated about 30km from Tiruchy. The town’s fame lies in the Murugan temple that perches high above the town, on

Viralimalai locals rely on agriculture to make their living, but the temple and its peacocks bring a number of tourists which helps the town greatly. There are over 100,000 peacocks and peahens roaming safely and contentedly around the area.

The people who live in Viralimalai also rely on the birds and the temple spiritually. They believe the peacock and the gods who take on its form are responsible for the outcome of their farming. When the local people make profit, they thank the gods and the peacocks. They offer their extra grains, wheat and food as thanksgiving and for future blessings. If their crops have been less, then they pray to Murugan and offer foods to the birds in the hope that next time, they will have more fortune. They can see the Lord in the birds and they will never hurt or harm them.

Bonded with people P.Mookaya has been involved in working at the temple for 50 of his 55 years. His father had worked there before him and ever since he was a small child, the temple and the peacocks have been a part of his life. He is a prime example of the respectful relationship that these townspeople share with the peacocks. Both spiritually and in conservation aspects, the people here are determined to continue with an abundance of peacocks around them.

Photo: Sudeep Elamon

Madurai Messenger Peacock Trail February 2013

Pigeon Posts:

The peacocks here have become accustomed to the local people, typically shy and cautious creatures; “the birds of Viralimalai are fearless,” says P. Mookaya. He has a fierce resentment towards any threats towards the birds; at the temple, these threats come in the form of monkeys. Any offering to the peacocks first must get past the greedy hairy hands of the pesky monkeys who now call the temple home. P. Mookaya has started a sort of vendetta against the thieving mammals who pose a real danger to the birds when they start to fight for the food on offer; usually coming out on top are the monkeys with the advantage of teeth and claws.

As he chases away the monkeys with a long stick, he laments, “The monkeys steal the peacocks’ food, and drive them away from the temple.”

18

Every summer, the magnificent peacocks shed their iconic tail feathers as they grow a new set. At this time of the year, the local people of Viralimalai, including 40-year-old stall holder R. Tamilarasi collect the fallen feathers. The feathers are highly valued among the people. “They are seen as lucky”says R. Tamilarasi, as well as fashionable and are often used as an impressive offering at the temple. Having these natural artworks in one’s home is believed to bring luck and good fortune to the household. These feathers are given a lot of worth as well as the birds that have created them: “the peacocks are related to the god, everyone tries to protect them.”

Community-led conservation efforts Light-fingered primates are only one of the threats that face the birds of Virimalai. These feathered beauties are now in dwindling numbers. Centuries of hunting for meat, feathers and oils has reduced the population of the birds.

The remaining birds are held in even higher respect and there is an effort by the government and the people to protect and conserve the birds. Hunting the birds for any purpose is now banned. Viralimalai is one of the few places that hosts these majestic birds,

From Messenger to Racer Pigeons are the world’s oldest domesticated birds. Laetitia Saplana reports on modern pigeon racing in Madurai, a sport that originated in Belgium in the nineteenth century

By Laetitia Saplana France

R. Tamilarasi talks about the peacock feathers as a mascot

Viralimalai provides this country’s national bird with a community of people who are behind the success of their existence. Their lives here are usually blissful and are made so because of the caring assistance of the temple people and the locals

“Modern cities, which are concrete jungles, push the peacocks out. This is their only place,” states P. Mookaya.

They are a rarity, and with their spiritual importance to the town, people are passionate about protecting them. The forest department is undertaking a number of means to help the peacock in its fight for survival, providing the birds with water to drink, food, and taking action against the monkey problem.

These actions and the love of the locals leaves the future of the powerful yet vulnerable birds looking positive.

Viralimalai provides this country’s national bird with a community of people who are behind the success of their existence. Their lives here are usually blissful and are made so because

of the caring assistance of the temple people and the locals. Whether it is making an offering of foods to the birds or chasing away a monkey that preys on it, the people of this town are making sure that the birds they so value continue to grace the land with their presence. For many years to come, we are likely to see the brilliantly coloured train of a wandering peacock in Viralimalai, a sight that should never be forgotten.

19

D.Rajamanickam, the pigeon enthusiast

T

he racing pigeon is a very intelligent bird, which surprises you with its intelligence and ability to acquire new skills. How do they find their way - the world doesn’t know the answer yet. The racing pigeon is a product of the thrills of competition and a passion for pigeon breeding. D. Rajamanickam, president of Madurai Racing Pigeon Club, has been breeding

racing pigeons for 12 years. It’s now all in a day’s work for him!

Marathon fliers Pigeon racing is a sport which came to India in the 21st century. Indian racing pigeons are popular for their ability to fly long distance. They can fly 1600 kms - this marathon flying takes them five to seven days. They clock higher

speeds in good weather conditions, in the absence of clouds, rain, or darkness.

Pigeons fly between 500-600 km by day and they cover 1 km in 45 seconds.

The best pigeons for long distance flights are the “Homer” from America and Belgium. Racing pigeons for short flight distances are from China and Calcutta. Breeders recognize a good flyer for long or small distances when

Madurai Messenger Sport February 2013

Volunteer Laetitia with D.Rajamaickam along with his daughters

Special cages for the Homer pigeons

20

21 the pigeons are 2 months old. The daily training starts when the pigeons are four months old, and some pigeons will be trained for six months to one year, depending on their abilities. The pigeons start flying small distances, usually 10 km stretches, and gradually increase their flight distance up to 160 kms. The training is conducted in both good and bad conditions to prepare them for competitive pigeon racing.

When they are a year old, they are ready for competition. Before they are two years old, they fly some small distance races, and then, between the ages of two and four years, they fly long routes. Interestingly, the pigeons retire when they are four years old!

The owner, however, keeps them for breeding purposes. A pigeon can live up to 20 years.

The training starts one month before a race, because the arrival point must be the “house” for them. Pigeon racing is usually held between January and March every year. The competition starts when weather conditions are ideal.

To find the right flight path, racing pigeons use the earth’s magnetism, the position of sun, and also their high innate intelligence

Internal flight compass To find the right flight path, racing pigeons use the earth’s magnetism, the position of sun, and also their high innate intelligence. During a flight, pigeons make several stop overs and they stop flying when the sun goes down. If the bird is not well, it doesn’t fly.

The making of a racing pigeon To get a good racing pigeon, the breeder must take care of them

with nourishing food, hygienic living conditions and adequate and appropriate training. Pigeons have to feel comfortable, so a good “home” must be dry, warm and well ventilated.

The pigeons are fed twice a day with a mixture of grain, peanuts, and peas.

But during the training and competition period, pigeons eat once a day, and their diet is supplemented with vitamins.

The reason they are fed only once a day is that hungry pigeons will come “home” faster!

When a pigeon is born, it is tagged on the fourth day with a rubber tag (from the UK) on the leg or a plastic ring (from Belgium), both of which are light.

The tags carry a unique registration number, with the name of the owner and a number, like MPRC South India 001 0992. This is the birds’ lifelong identification tag. They are tagged for two reasons: to identify the birds, and to trace the owner when the birds are lost.

During the competition, the pigeon has another ring on the other leg, which

If you think that racing pigeons can carry a message and go back with an answer as in romance or poetry, unfortunately such romantic notions are not true, because pigeons can just fly to come back home Homer pigeon, which won second place in the long distance race for pigeons

carries the registration number for the competition and the owner’s initials.

Madurai Racing Pigeon Club proposes to introduce an information system that helps track, through a micro chip and GPS, a bird’s details, flying path and flight details.

If you think that racing pigeons can carry a message and go back with an answer as in romance or poetry, unfortunately such romantic notions are not true, because pigeons can just fly to come back home. So if one day you want to receive a message you must get a pigeon in your house. Somebody then will have to “steal” them and send you a message. But in the meantime, if you see a lot of pigeons in flight, perhaps it’s a “normal” pigeon, a racing pigeon in training or in a competition, or a pigeon carrying a love message…

Madurai Messenger Birds as Pets February 2013

Charts listing different types of birds, for sale

A Golden Cage Birds are free spirits and a cage isn’t where they are meant to be. But for some, like R. Karubakaran of the well known Kadachanendal farm in Madurai, who breeds birds that are kept as pets, a golden cage is a better existence to being poached and destroyed

By Adele Eude France Goose swimming in the specially built artificial ponds

22

23

can be happy. Cages are adapted for each bird, which simulate their natural environment to give them a sense of eco balance, and a taste of freedom.

Eco balance refers to respecting the natural environment of the birds, by simulating and adapting temperature and light to house them comfortably in the cages. This also helps protect some of the endangered species. This cage’s design is conducive for them to reproduce.

R

. Karubakaran (60) and his son, K. Dineshkumar (28), own a local farm and an aqua garden, in Kadachanendal village, close to Madurai.

When I arrived at this pleasant lush place, there were so many green trees, and the air smelled wonderful.

I understood R. Karubakaran loved animals (as his pet dog was constantly by his side) and was in harmony with nature. This farm is a domain

where many animals like cats, dogs, snakes, fish and birds live and it is also a research center for the study of spirulina, a species of blue green algae.

Spirulina is a natural food supplement rich in vitamins which has health benefits and is particularly well known for its role in improving vitality.

But R. Karubakaran’s enduring passion is birds. R. Karubakaran began his hobby when he was young. His father gave him Rs. 10 to buy a fish. His first

buy had him hooked and he knew that he would like to live with many animals on a farm, and take care of them. He breeds more than 50 species of birds for sale - love birds, pigeons, ducks, Indian fowls, Chinese cocks, and peacocks.

R. Karubakaran would like the birds to feel free and not feel imprisoned. When I heard them singing, I knew he had kept his promise. So he has a big space for them, where they can fly, where they

He loves birds like a member of his family. “If one bird dies, it’s a really sad moment for us. I take care of them like babies,” says Karubakaran who continues to be fascinated by the diversity of birds. Every day, R. Karubakaran gets up at 8.30 am and goes to the farm to take care of the different animals. According to him, it is important that buyers possess a love for birds and animals and have the ability to care for them. R. Karubakaran often refuses potential buyers if he feels that they have no genuine interest in birds.

He often provides helpful advice on food preferences of the birds, and the right kind of environment for birds. But if birds are ill, he advises them to consult a veterinarian, because he doesn’t have any skills to care for birds.

He doesn’t view this venture as a business proposition. He is content to live in communion with nature - live with animals, live to protect animals, and make a living out of his passion.

R. Karubakaran insists on customers who are familiar with birds

Madurai Messenger Art February 2013

From Left- Volunteers Salome and Hanae proudly posing with Prof. Venkatraman

Birds: A Symbol of Freedom of the Spirit In a chat with art historian Professor R. Venkatraman, Salome Fleur Becker explores the representation of birds in art and mythology across the world and concludes that birds symbolize an ever present human desire—for freedom—where even the sky is no limit to the human quest

By Salome Fleur Becker Germany

B 24

efore I even met well known art historian Prof.

Ramaswamy Venkatraman, people told me it would be an extraordinary experience. So I was expecting to meet a very charismatic and wise man, who radiates sobriety and professionalism. As soon as he opened the door for us with a hearty laugh, I knew I was wrong about the sobriety.

And even now, after having listened to the recording of our interview, I was surprised about how much time we spent laughing together.

Prof. R. Venkatraman on an endless quest

The peacock is a holy bird in Christianity as well, where it as an emblem for the resurrection of Jesus

I went to speak with Prof. Ramaswamy Venkatraman about birds in arts, as he is one of the best known art historians in Madurai, but actually I ended up gaining much more insight into his philosophy of life.

Prof. Ramaswamy Venkatraman is really passionate about beauty. Although he didn’t plan to become an art historian, art and beauty have played a great role throughout his whole life. A member of a wealthy salt-trading business family, his life seemed to be predetermined. But like Professor Venkatraman said wisely, “Everything I planned in life, didn’t succeed. But everything I desired, happened.”

According to Professor Venkatraman, Salim Ali (1896–1987), although not an artist, who also is the most famous Indian ornithologist, introduced scientific ornithology in India. Even though birds appear in Hinduism, the appraisal and interest in them is a relatively new aspect in Indian society.

Freezing a moment According to Dr Venkatraman, if there is an Indian artist who captured the beauty of birds, it would be Madhaviah Krishnan (30.06.1912 – 18.02.1996), popularly known as M. Krishnan, the eminent naturalist and wildlife photographer. Born in 1912, he was one of the first environmentalists in India.

He expressed his love for nature and birds not only with his photographs but also in many essays and lobbied tirelessly to declare Vedanthangal, near Madras (now Chennai) a bird sanctuary. His commitment to protecting the environment and animals make him a remarkable artist.

The photograph “Snakebird”, taken in 1970, is a great example of his work. Even though he lived to see many technological developments in photography such as the introduction of colour photography and more precision in

terms of high end cameras, he continued to use his regular cameras, and continued to photograph in black and white.

So now one could ask why he was not interested in showing the beautiful colours of nature. If you look at the “Snakebird” you will find the answer. Through the use of sharp contrasts, the focus remains on the shapes, on the composition of the bird and environment. Even though the bird seems motionless and the tree it sits on is dead, the picture carries so much life and power that the spectator nearly expects the bird to take wing in the next second.

Symbolism of birds in world religions, culture and art Professor Venkatraman told me right at the beginning that birds in both Hindu and foreign art are mostly found in a religious context. For example, Lord Brahma, the creator, is often shown with a swan. The swan is a symbol of grace and discernment and therefore the vehicle of Lord Brahma. Similarly in

25 Greek mythology, the swan is associated with Apollo, the God of light, music and death. He is also often pictured in his wagon, which is dragged by holy swans.

The very popular painting “Leda and the swan” of the master artist Leonardo Da Vinci (1452 – 1519) also shows Leda, Apollo’s mother with a black swan.

Akin to the Indian meaning, the swan in European art represents innocence, beauty and death.

Another religious example is the goddess of wisdom, Saraswati. She is often shown with a peacock, which indicates that your life will get colorful, if you seek knowledge. The peacock itself is an important bird in Indian culture. People believe that its feathers have a healing property and that it is a sin to kill a peacock. Also Lord Krishna can often be identified by the characteristic peacock feather which he wears on his head. The peacock is a holy bird in Christianity as well, where it is depicted as an emblem for the resurrection of Jesus.

The green parrot plays also a great role as a symbol of love and peace.

You just have to visit the Meenakshi Amman temple in Madurai, to see the Goddess Meenakshi holding a parrot in her right hand. The parrot symbolises Meenakshi’s love for Shiva. Therefore it is not astonishing that the parrot is also the vehicle of Lord Kamadeva, the god of love and passion.

These are only a few examples, which show how deeply entrenched birds are in Hinduism and therefore in Indian culture and art. Birds with their ability to fly are seen as carriers of the gods; especially the eagle, being elected as the king of the sky, is regarded as the eye of god. So birds not only are symbols, but are also the link between the world and the supernatural world.

But one does not have to be very religious or spiritual to see the beauty of birds. Like Prof. Ramaswamy Venkatraman said, “Nature is the greatest beauty” and who cannot feel attracted while watching a bird flapping its wings and rising up into the sky?

Perhaps people are fascinated about birds because all of them symbolize a great human desire: freedom.

Madurai Messenger People February 2013

Unheard Voices, Untold Stories Winner of 22 national and international awards for their documentaries, film makers and academicians Anjali Monteiro and KP Jayasankar, both of whom teach at the Tata Institute of Social Sciences, Mumbai, were recently in Madurai to showcase some of their films, particularly SheWrite, a sensitive portrayal of four contemporary Tamil women poets in their struggle to be heard loud and clear in a male-dominated society, Salome Fleur Becker in conversation with the film makers

By Salome Fleur Becker Germany

Anjali Monteiro and K.P. Jayasankar,sharing with us the challenges of producing documentaries

A 26

s soon as I entered the small shaded room, my eyes zeroed in on the strong presence of the couple standing near the LCD projector. Engrossed in a discussion, they radiated an uncommon harmony which made it obvious that they must have known each other for a long time.

Moving like two people sharing one body, they turned around, both dressed in turquoise shirts and with the same welcoming smile. Anjali Monteiro (57), and K.P. Jayasankar (60), Professors, School of Media and Cultural Studies, at the prestigious Tata Institute for Social Sciences (TISS) in Mumbai, are also well known documentary film makers. The couple was in Madurai recently for the 14th international film festival, for a retrospective on their documentaries. On December 7, 2012 at Madurai Kamaraj University (MKU), they were preparing to present their documentary SheWrite, a thought provoking documentary on the challenges and constraints faced by a few contemporary Tamil women poets as they dared to question patriarchal norms and values.

Widely regarded for their incisive analysis of contemporary social issues and voicing the concerns of marginalized groups, the classroom accommodating around thirty visitors seemed, at first, to be inappropriate to me. But not in the eyes of the two film

We are different people, we think differently. One is like the left side of the brain, the other one like the right side makers while we were sitting in the room next door, a little library. Between books, shelves and computers, they explained to me the importance of personal contact with their audience.

Aware that their experimental and provocative documentaries evoke a range of responses from the audience, ranging from praise to severe criticism and condemnation, Anjali Monteiro and K.P. Jayasankar like to personally interact with the audience to to hear and discuss their comments on their

work. Even though their films had been screened several times at the earlier documentary festivals in Madurai (that is now an annual event), it was the first time that they had an opportunity to be present at the festival and interact live with the audience.

The harmony of the two sides of a brain Both Anjali Monteiro and K.P. Jayasankar are self-taught film makers.

Anjali Monteiro has a Master’s degree in Economics and a Ph.D. in Sociology; K.P. Jayasankar has an M.A. in German Studies and a Ph.D. in Humanities and Social Sciences. But just as everything in their life is connected to movies, they also met the first time while Anjali Monteiro was working on her first documentary in 1986. Three years later they married and “since then, we do everything together,” said K.P. Jayasankar happily.

As they told me about the nearly 40 documentaries they made since 1986, I wondered how they have time to also teach at TISS. “We don’t think of our work as work at all! It is more like...”, “More like having fun!” said Anjali Monteiro as she completes the sentence her husband began. “Although we often fight about our work,” she admitted.

I tried to imagine them having a fight but I could just not believe that they could ever raise their voices. To me, they seemed like the perfect pair in real and reel life: even-tempered, wise, sensitive, fun, and absolutely professional.

“We are different people, we think differently. One is like the left side of the brain, the other one like the right side,” said the couple in perfect complementarity. Anjali Monteiro likes to organize things and content, to get in touch with all the people and develop a structure for their project. K.P. Jayasankar is in charge of the art work, and the restaging. And like the two sides of a brain, they need each other to complete the picture.

‘The medium chooses you’ When I asked them why they had chosen documentaries as their medium of cinematic expression, there was a second of silence.

“I don’t think that we have chosen it. I think the medium chooses you,” Anjali Monteiro answered thoughtfully and K.P. Jayasankar gave me an approving smile. When we view their documentaries, it is clear what they mean. SheWrite, for example, tells us

about the four Tamil women poets: Salma, Kuttirevathi, Malathy Maitri and Sukirtharani, who publish despite societal proscription about female sexuality. The documentary weaves the poems and the personal lives of the poets with candid interviews with each of them. The effective background music adds to the film’s message. It lets them grow so that the spectator feels the rising power of those women who are courageous enough to speak about a topic about which the rest of society prefers to remain embarrassingly silent.

Women’s ownership of their bodies “We are not taught to own our body. Most Indian women feel like their body should be owned by men,” one protagonist explains. That seems to be one of the main reasons why the four women refuse to stop writing even though they are under great pressure to do so. They feel the great need to create awareness, to give an insight into the most natural processes of the female body and celebrate and own their bodies in a male dominated society.

Anjali Monteiro explained to me that many people are uncomfortable with reading such poetry, because they feel like they are reading something obscene. But there is nothing obscene about describing the menstrual cycle or sexual desire. In the eyes of this film maker couple, it is more like describing the most natural feelings.

Salma, Kuttirevathi, Malathy Maitri and Sukirtharani give a voice to their bodily needs and through their documentary, Anjali Monteiro and K.P. Jayasankar give a voice to such deep rooted concerns of women that both women and men need to hear and acknowledge.

In a very artistic way, Monteiro and Jayasankar visualize the lives and the work of people who are strong enough to resist societal pressure, and more importantly, their own doubts and fears. In capturing the courageous stance of these poets who happen to be women in a male-dominated society,

the documentary also subtly talks to us about some people who are willing to change something, even though they have to pay a price for doing so.

A convergence of creativity Using poetry for their documentaries seems to be their favorite mode of storytelling. I was not very surprised when K.P. Jayasankar revealed with amusement that he wanted to be a painter when he was a teenager. His ability to visualize emotions is obvious throughout the fifty-five minute SheWrite.

As Anjali Monteiro was born and raised in Goa and K.P. Jayasankar in Kerala, they had to learn Tamil to be able to understand the poems of the Tamil poets featured in SheWrite.

Their closeness to the protagonists is also indicated by scenes shot in the homes of the poets, as for example, in discussions between mother and daughter about poetry. All characters are shown in their natural environment.

Whereas Kuttirevathi discovers her space and power in solitude, Salma uses her political influence as a Panchayat President to reach more people. All of them come from different places, have different ages and family backgrounds, but they stand by each other and found an organization called “Anangu” (“Woman”)—a creative platform for women writers to express their concerns, hear and be heard.

SheWrite is not a documentary which feeds you with facts; it is more a personal portrait, a film which makes you question yourself and your attitude towards the female body.

Anjali Monteiro and K.P. Jayasankar were hesitant to speak too much about their work. But I could hear the delight in their voices; I could see how some wrinkles around the corners of their eyes indicated a smile, which was not visible yet. Feeling their joy in their explanations of what a good documentary should be like, I detected the secret of their success: their never ending will to discover and capture life.

27

Madurai Messenger Bird’s Eye View February 2013

Flight of the Robin

This time we flew over land again and could stop at nights to sleep, and watch over each other. It was a land called India and all the birds were much more brightly coloured than in England

An imaginative and touching narrative of the migratory route taken by Rufus, an English robin, as he joins a flock of ducks on their annual migration to India

By Isabelle Brotherton Ratcliffe United Kingdom

An English robin Xmas Card

M 28

y name is Rufus and I am a robin from England. Normally all my fellow robins and I stay in England during the winter and we are often portrayed on Christmas cards, which I think is a tribute to our loyalty to England even during the cold season.

Perhaps it is also because, unlike the black Indian robins, we English robins have a red patch on our breasts which makes us more noticeable in the snow and more colourful for human pictures.

A passage to India This year, however, I decided to go away with the ducks that fly to India each year. It is a long way to go but they always come back with stories of the exotic birds they have met and the delicious insects they eat there and so I thought I should expand my horizons and make an effort to go further afield this winter. I was worried about keeping up with them on the journey as they are much bigger than me and although they don‘t normally fly long distances, their wings are strong enough to do so.

I am used to hopping in short flights around the ground looking for worms and returning regularly to the safety and comfort of my nest. Also the ducks eat weed from ponds which I think tastes awful. I certainly prefer fat worms and flies, and in the winter, the humans always help us out with bread and nuts.

I think they like having at least one bird left in their gardens so they generally make quite a fuss of us.

This year, however, I decided to go away with the ducks that fly to India each year

Anyway, having resolved to leave all this behind, I asked the ducks how we would manage the journey. They suggested eating well before we left – not so much as to be too heavy to fly, but enough to keep our strength up for the first few days and certainly until I had got used to the routine. We had to agree quite early on that we liked different landing grounds – the ducks were always drawn to patches of water while I found the water too cold for my thin legs so I would rest on branches nearby. At night the ducks would put their heads under their wings near some water body and cluster together for warmth. They offered me room to sleep between them but I liked to nose into bushes to find some cover and protection from the wind or rain (and nasty things like cats or foxes).

Humans have a saying about water running off a duck‘s back, meaning that the ducks don‘t notice it but I could feel the cold rain and didn‘t like my feathers getting too wet as it makes it more difficult to fly. But then a strange thing began to happen. I realised that the more we flew, the warmer we got, and the ducks explained this was the meaning of migration – going to a warmer climate. We flew over somewhere called Europe and I could never have imagined such a big land mass if I had not seen it with my own eyes – in England if you fly for that length of time in any direction, you reach the sea. As we flew south we found there were more insects to eat and although the fruit had dried on the trees, there were all sorts of berries. In France we ate snails.

A marine banquet When we reached the end of Europe, we rested for a few days to build up our strength again for a long flight over water. Of course this didn‘t worry the ducks, except that it was salt water rather than the fresh water they like, and could be much rougher to swim in. I could not have imagined there was so much water in the world and began to worry we would never come to the end of it – but just when I was truly exhausted, the ducks spotted a ship where they said we could rest.

They seemed to know which ships were going south and which were the best to land on and I was delighted to discover that on the ship there was all kinds of food which the sailors left in buckets to throw into the sea. We were able to feast ourselves on those titbits, preferably before the food was in the sea because the very aggressive gulls seemed to regard it as their property.

We spent three days on the ship before the ducks said it was time to move on.

I had begun to feel a little homesick but I realised I had come too far now to turn back so I took off with them again.

They were very kind to me and said they would look after me all the way. I have always liked ducks.

Across Indian skies This time we flew over land again and could stop at nights to sleep, and watch over each other. It was a land called India and all the birds were much more brightly coloured than in England, so I felt rather insignificant. Also there were huge vultures which I found very frightening – they could carry me off without even noticing – so I hoped we

would keep our distance from them.

Once we flew over an old palace where there were peacocks, but they were too grand to speak to us so we didn‘t waste any time with them.

By this time the air was actually hot – hotter than it usually is in full summer in England – and sometimes it made me feel quite weak. The ducks said we had to drink more water here because of something called dehydration but it was not always easy to find water. I also had to learn not to perch on anything metal such as electricity pylons or roof pipes and parked cars as metal was terribly hot and I usually had to hop off it straightaway. In India there were lots of cows everywhere, not in fields as they are back in England, but all around the towns, on the roads and in and out of gardens. And then I noticed that wherever there were cows there were slim white birds with them who said they ate the insects on the cows and those loosened by the cows’ hooves from the mud. Apparently the cows are grateful for this and the birds get a good meal so they are both happy. The ducks and I tried it out. The ducks did not have the right shaped bills to pick out the insects but I could peck at them and managed to pass some on to the ducks.

Now we have arrived at a special bird paradise called Vedanthangal near Chennai where the ducks naturally feel very happy. They have introduced me to all the birds they know – there are huge birds called storks and pelicans with beaks big enough to swallow me! They all ask me questions about England but don‘t seem very enthusiastic about the things I tell them – what, no rice they say, and I feel rather homesick. The ducks say we should stay here for four months to enjoy the warm weather and then go back to England. It has been a very long journey for warm weather but I can see the change suits them and they love being with so many other water birds. For me, when I get back to England I shall stay there; I am happier being spoilt by humans – and I do like being on the Christmas cards.

29

Madurai Messenger Book Review February 2013

Ode to Birds For bird lovers in the country and elsewhere, eminent naturalist, wild life photographer and writer M Krishnan needs no introduction. His collection of essays, Of Birds and Birdsong is all about one’s man’s private delight in birds that he spent a life time observing and writing about. Madurai Messenger is honored to review the book to coincide with M Krishnan’s centenary

There is in fact a pleasing absence of specialised vocabulary and when Krishnan describes the differing wing, beak and claw styles of some birds, and the various abilities these afford them, it is never to show off his own knowledge but to share his understanding with the reader

By Isabelle Brotherton Ratcliffe Eminent naturalist and author M.Krishnan

United Kingdom

Title: Of Birds and Birdsong Author: M.Krishnan Publisher: Aleph Book Company Year: 2012 30

Price: Rs.428/-

T

his is a charming book written by an author who has clearly been drawn to birds in all their forms. M. Krishnan was born in 1912 in Chennai and lived there or in the surrounding area until his death in 1996. He had many professional occupations in his life but a love of birds flowed through it all and this is a collection of brief essays on those he had observed, known, studied, and wondered at. In addition to writing for well known publications such as The Hindu and The Illustrated Weekly of India, Krishnan is perhaps best known for his regular column, “Country Notebook,“ which was published in the leading national daily The Statesman continuously for 46 years. This book is a compendium of a lifetime worth of jottings on the birds which so intrigued him.

One man’s private delight in birds The book is divided into loosely categorised sections, each containing 8 -15 two or three page vignettes on various aspects of birds. Sometimes the reason for the groupings is not apparent, but what is clear in every section is the attraction birds hold for Krishnan. He is equally happy describing the courtship dances of cranes, the predatory nature of crows, the maternal instincts of a peahen and the charm of partridges. One of the sections contains dispassionate descriptions of different birds, but the lay reader need have no fear of obscure ornithological terms.

There is in fact a pleasing absence of specialised vocabulary and when Krishnan describes the differing wing, beak and claw styles of some birds, and the various abilities these afford them, it is never to show off his own knowledge but to share his understanding with the reader.

These stories are the result of one man’s private delight in the range of birds he has seen in his life. It is neither

a reference work, nor a guide, but by turns factual and anecdotal and covers an encyclopedic range of avifauna. It is easy for the reader to see the pleasure Krishnan took in the birds around him and there are reminiscences of birds he has known as pets, neighbours and pests; birds he has seen in the countryside, the city, on telegraph wires, in trees, in water and on land; birds he has read about and birds he has studied. There are stories of birds as fighters, companions, parents, guardians, architects, songsters, predators and pets.

As an observer, he is able to include both a heartwarming story of a wounded parakeet, which he rescued and returned to health and liberty, together with a less happy story of birds lost to the ignorance of human brutality.

31

The writing style has a charm of its own, independent of the subject matter, being both light and succinct, but never dry. These are illustrations in words, carefully chosen words making uncluttered prose which is easily read, often underlined with a wry humour, but always with a leisurely elegance. Who amongst us now has the time – or the patience – to sit for hours observing the interplay of a small group of birds, or the positioning of birds on telegraph wires – and to speculate about its meaning.

Krishnan is modest about himself, and particularly selfdeprecating in relating incidents with his cumbersome camera. His writings reveal him as a gentle and quiet spoken scholar prepared to throw away a whole dinner for the amusement of watching birds catch their food in flight.

Inevitably such elegiac writing carries with it sadness for the world which values only the most colourful or endearing birds and an unspoken lament for the absence of human wonder about these ultimately unknown creatures that fascinated him for a lifetime.

He is equally happy describing the courtship dances of cranes, the predatory nature of crows, the maternal instincts of a peahen and the charm of partridges

Madurai Messenger Book Review February 2013

Healing through Love and Redemption

Author Paul Gallico

A memorable classic tale of the bond between a man and a girl, united by their common love for an injured snow goose and how the act of nurturing the bird sets them both free

By Isabelle Brotherton Ratcliffe United Kingdom

T

he Snow Goose is really a short story – debatably a novella – and at less than 40 pages it is certainly an easy and a quick read. The author, Paul Gallico (18971976), was an American who began his writing career as a sports journalist and this is one of his earliest works of fiction.

In 1936, he moved to England and settled in the countryside.

The Snow Goose was published in 1941, becoming an immediate best seller.

32

Title: The Snow Goose Author: Paul Gallico Language: English

Publishers: New York, A.A. Knopf Year of Publishing: 1941

Transcending Form The story concerns Philip Rhayader, a man younger than he appears, who has reluctantly retreated from worldly life as a result of the deformities of his body which cause him to think of himself as an object of revulsion. The first description of him, however, emphasises that his appearance does not match his inner humanity. We are told that “his body was warped but his heart was filled with love for wild and hunted things.” This notion of the warmth and tenderness hidden in an ugly body, which is itself well rehearsed in literature, is repeated throughout the story, perhaps to explain his sensitivity to his appearance, or to underline the loss to humanity of a person with much to give but who is scorched by the suspicion with which he is viewed by other people.

The book describes in evocative and haunting prose the desolation and bleakness of the tidal marshes of the east coast, where Rhayader has settled in a disused lighthouse, and where he keeps a pen of rare and injured waterfowl. His only pleasure is the care he extends to these creatures, by whom he is not judged, and the skill with which he paints them. Eventually his isolation is breached by a girl, Fritha, who brings him a wounded goose to treat. Together they care for the snow goose and as the goose recovers its strength, Fritha loses her fear of the man, seeing only the gentle person dedicated to helping the wild birds around him, and Rhayader begins to emerge from his self-protective shell.

They share a common bond with and through the goose but once the goose is healed and flies away, Fritha also leaves.

She becomes an occasional visitor, just as the goose becomes a migratory visitor: constant but transient. There is a sadness

33 here in that just as Rhayader has been brought out of his loneliness by Fritha’s companionship, her departure returns him to it.

The story moves rapidly through several years and we understand that both Fritha and Rhayader sense the possibility of deeper feelings between them but both shy away from any expression of them. Rhayader is reluctant to speak of his love, hampered by the constant awareness of his disfigurement, while Fritha is daunted by the possible depth of a relationship for which she is not ready. There are moments of shared companionship but anything deeper is left unspoken. It is at these points that the book is most touching and ultimately sad.

The story’s denouement takes place in May 1940 with the evacuation of Dunkirk. For readers not familiar with this incident of the Second World War, it was the period when the British Army, sent to oppose the German Army in 1939, was obliged to retreat as far back as the French coast, around the town of Dunkirk. Thousands of men were

trapped between the sea and with the guns facing them, a wireless call went out throughout the United Kingdom for anyone with a boat of any size to go across the Channel and rescue any men who could be retrieved from their stranded positions on the beach.

An act of heroism Rhayader too hears the summons and sees in it a kind of redemption for his blighted life and a chance for him at last to be judged as other men. He equips his tiny boat to sail to France and rescue anyone he can. At this point, the narrative switches to that of a naval officer recounting the story of a man in a boat, accompanied by a snow goose, who made repeated forays to save boatload after boatload of desperate men. The snow goose stayed with the boat until it was lost and became an omen of salvation for the men who saw it. Finally, in a last gesture, the snow goose returns to Fritha and in the bird, Fritha sees the soul of Rhayader finally set free.

The metaphors in this narrative are clear – both Fritha and the snow goose are

wild and wounded but each is healed in some way by Rhayader, while for Rhayader, Fritha and the goose seem to represent freedom and the humanity from which he has excluded himself.

However, the focus is always on the snow goose, its departures and returns and its attachment to Rhayader and Fritha.

I found the brevity of the novella a disadvantage as I would like to have known more of Fritha’s life, the reactions of those around her to her friendship with Rhayader and to have learned more about the changing nature of their relationship as she grows to adulthood. None of these themes are developed which leaves the text a little sparse. The writing, however, is clear and precise and the pen portrait of Rhayader gives us all we need to understand the man and his life. The story itself has the charm of any account of a human and animal relationship, with its insistence on the snow goose’s almost human attachment to Rhayader and Fritha, and remains memorable long after the book has been read.

Madurai Messenger Films February 2013

Bizarre Bird Behaviour In 1961, well-known film maker Alfred Hitchock was vacationing near Monteiro Bay, California, when he heard reports of the normally non agressive sea birds behaving in a bizzare manner and even attacking residents. This was the inspiration for his hugely popular horror flick, The Birds, based on Daphne du Maurier’s eponymous novella that continues to shock and horrify viewers even 50 years after its release, writes Laetitia Saplana

By Laetitia Saplana France

T

he Birds is a horror movie with a lot of suspense. It makes you scared about birds because they attack the occupants of houses without any obvious reason. It’s an amazing and strange film which makes compelling viewing.

34

The Birds is an American movie released in 1963 and directed by the master of Hollywood suspense,Alfred Hitchcock. He was inspired by two things; the eponymous book by the British novelist Daphne du Maurier published in 1952 about birds,and adapted by the scriptwriter Evan Hunter. And also by an inexplicable attack of birds in Santa Cruz city in California in USA in August 1961.

35

True to life

Hitchcock succeeds admirably in crafting a movie that arouses a primitive fear in humans—of being attacked by birds without notice, nor motive. And he has achieved this, because after watching the movie, you are not the same when you see birds in the sky

In this movie, you can see thousands of different types of birds: crows, gulls, sparrows, black birds, and many others. Sometimes the land and sky are full of birds and the atmosphere changes completely. It’s a very strange sensation.

For three years, before filming the sequences in the movie, bird trainers trained all the different birds, to perform flying attacks. They used several techniques for training. But birds, like all animals are not human, so they don’t do exactly what you want to do on time. So sometimes, certain sequences of the movie were made with special effects. For Hitchcock, the suspense and the absence of music was replaced by the birds’ song. This avian music creates the tense and anxious mood of the film that adds to the suspense.

From the beginning of the movie, you know something strange will happen because, Melanie Daniels (Tippi Hedren), a beautiful and rich lady from San Francisco is walking down the street in a big city and, she hears and sees a lot of birds in the sky. She looks worried. So you start to be worried too and you want to know what will happen next. After this, an important character in the film, Mitch Brenner (Rod Taylor) from San Francisco too, meets Melanie in a bird shop. Mitch pretends to mistake her for an employee, and asks for some love birds for his sister Cathy’s birthday. There are none. He knows her, but

she doesn’t know him. They argue a little, and you can see the beginning of love in their eyes.

After some research, she brings the love birds directly to the Brenner family house on Bodega Bay in California, 60 km away. On the way, she meets Annie Hayworth (Suzanne Pleshette) Cathy’s teacher, and Mitch’s ex-lover. Melanie rents

a small boat to cross the bay. When she comes back with the small boat, she is attacked by a gull on the head. Mitch receives her and he treats her in the restaurant. She meets Mitch’s mother for the first time, who looks at her with hostility. Maliciously, she insists that she comes for dinner. That night, Melanie meets Cathy, Mitch’s sister. Cathy is thrilled by the bird gift and she likes Melanie. She wants Melanie to come to her birthday party the next day, but Melanie is unsure because she has to leave for San Francisco. During the party, while the children are playing, an attack of birds in flight shocks everybody.

Teenagers and adults are screaming, crying, running. You can feel the fear

in the children’s minds and in your own. A few days later, the birds attack the children at school. People begin to worry and they think it’s Melanie’s fault, because these problems began only after she visited. One night, an important attack of the birds takes place and that forms the climax of the film.

the Pacific coast. Large quantities of these algae are consumed by fish and other marine animals. When birds feed on these animals, they ingest the toxin and are unable to get rid of it from their systems. The accumulated toxin can cause confusion, disorientation, convulsions, coma or even death.

No longer just fiction

Hitchcock succeeds admirably in crafting a movie that arouses a primitive fear in humans—of being attacked by birds without notice, nor motive. And he has achieved this, because after watching the movie, you are not the same when you see birds in the sky.

Today the mysteries of sudden bird attacks are resolved. According to a study published in December 2011

by Nature Geoscience, a team of American oceanographers clarify this baffling ornithological mystery identifying the culprit: a toxin, a domoic acid produced by the toxic algae off

Madurai Messenger Films February 2013

Song of the Lesser Flamingo A review of the spectacular documentary that captures the difficult but inspiring struggles and triumphs of the Lesser flamingoes in Lake Natron in Northern Tanzania, the world’s largest congregation of this graceful bird

By Salome Fleur Becker Germany

L

ake Natron located at the eastern end of the Great Rift Valley in Tanzania seems to be one of the most remarkable places on earth. Due to the extraordinary high level of salt concentration in the water, the flora and fauna is unique for its amazing adaptation to such a hostile environment. Fed by the Southern Ewaso Ng’iro River and some mineral rich hot springs, the lake reaches a great width but remains only about three meters deep. This uncomfortable area, where temperature sometimes hits 50 degrees C, becomes a stage for a beautiful spectacle.

36

The sky is darkening; a vast shadow is approaching the lake.

The sun vanishes behind thousands of moving bodies, which are encountering the air space. Like a pink blanket, the swarm of Lesser flamingos covers the surface of Lake Natron.

With such impressive pictures, the movie The Crimson Wing tells the story about the Lesser flamingos at Lake Natron.

Released in 2008 by the nature film production company Disney Nature, the British-French-American documentary has fascinated thousands of viewers across the globe with its spectacular scenes. While watching the life cycle of a Lesser flamingo from its nesting stage to its adulthood, a process filled with many dangers that threaten its very survival, breathtaking sequences enable the viewer to learn more about this special bird species without the slightest effort.

In fact the habitat of the Lesser flamingos is limited. They are concentrated in Africa with only one exception: the North West coast of India, at the Zinzuwadia and Purabcheria salt pans. Since most people have seen flamingos only in a zoo, or as a plastic statue in somebody’s front yard, this movie reveals the fascinating facts about this special and colourful bird.

Due to the few and extraordinary breeding places, the Lesser flamingo is classified as “nearly threatened” on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red list.

The Lesser flamingo feeds on certain species of blue-green algae, which only grow in water with a great concentration of minerals including salt. Their extraordinary crimson color is also caused by the food which causes this special chemical reaction in their body.

The stunning visuals create an intimacy between the spectator and the flamingos. Watching the tiny grey, clotted chick

37

making its way out of the egg is simply amazing. Likewise you would never have expected to see the great admiration the avian parents shower on their young ones. Also the fact the Lesser flamingoes are monogamous or mate for life, remind us of humans. Throughout the movie we see the little chick growing up, discovering the world with its first tipsy footsteps out of the mud hole nest, until its first wing beat.

”You never know at which lake the flamingos are right now, but if they are here, their presence is obvious!”

Crimson Wing

Nevertheless the view of the spectator is much wider. The camera captures the beauty of Lake Natron, shows the salt isles, which look like ice floes in the midst of Africa.

Resembling a painting by Monet, we can see some great images reflected on the lake. The blurry and dark shadows of the flamingos contrast with the dim white of the water and look like some mystical creatures invading a hidden paradise.

Such beautiful scenery is highlighted by the soulful and moving music produced by the cinematic orchestra.

survival of the flamingoes. After feeling so connected to the young flamingos it is heart rending to see how they are eaten by their natural enemies, such as raptors or hyenas. Since the flamingos lost their pointed beak in the course of evolution to help them filter the water for their food, they don’t have an option to defend themselves. Only their location saves them from other predators, which cannot walk in the high acidic water around the breeding places.

But even though Lake Natron might look like a paradise, we also get to know about the dangers it poses to the very

Sometimes even the flamingos are threatened by the salt. For no visible

reason, only some unlucky chicks are endangered as when a salt crust forms around their legs, making walking a struggle. This is tragic considering that their watering holes are sometimes about thirty kilometers away. So nature ensures its natural selection through survival of the fittest, even though it might be hard to watch their slow death.

Finally, The Crimson Wing is an extraordinary documentary, which goes beyond the stereotypical informative role of a documentary and shows us

with surprisingly much emotion, the life of the Lesser flamingo at Lake Natron. It doesn’t suffer the loss of professionalism by avoiding a stereotypical, contrived storyline. The movie is certainly not recommended for people who are looking for an adventurous and exciting experience. But I can truly recommend it to people, who worship beautiful scenery and those with a passion for nature and birds. Most important, a general interest in flamingos or birds is not necessary to enjoy this not only entertaining but also educating movie.

Madurai Messenger Village Voices February 2013

Vedanthangal:

Bonding with Birds Hanae Araki strolls around Vedanthangal, that is home to the oldest water bird sanctuary in the country, and reports on the unique symbiosis that exists between the birds and the people of this village who regard them as their “children” and treasure their special relationship with them

By Hanae Araki Japan

A panoramic view of the birds in Vedanthangal Lake

Bird Sanctuary, which is one of the oldest water bird sanctuaries in India.

From November to March, this calm village is crowded with more birds than people. Once we entered the sanctuary, we were totally overwhelmed by the spectacle. We gazed at the thousands of birds, forgetting the passage of time.

We could not utter a word.

People “All birds are my children,” said C. Sampath, a bird guide and resident of Vedanthangal. After a long time spent in gazing at the birds—an activity that filled us with peace and joy, we sat on the bench and talked with one of the people in the village, E.Vedachalam (40). For him and the others in the village, birds are not mere creatures living close to them. The presence of the birds is in their lives and their hearts. Every person considered the birds to be his or her children.

In my home country, Japan, there is an old poem, which says that there‘s nothing as valuable as children. Even gold and silver have no value when compared to children. For these villagers also, the birds are their own children, the most valuable “treasure.”

It doesn’t have a monetary value but yet is more precious.

38

T

reasure. What does this word remind you of? Some people might imagine gold or money. Others might imagine jewelry. Thus, the meaning of treasure differs from person to person, but the common point is that it is especially valuable for each person. Some people already have one, and others haven’t any yet. I myself didn’t know clearly what treasure means to me until my encounter with the “family” in one

village, which gave me a chance to think it over. This is a story of that big “family.”

It was in a village full of love and thoughtfulness.

Place

Vedanthangal, about 25 km south of Chengalpattu, is a small and rather quiet village which, although at first sight seems just like any other typical South Indian village, is well known among birdwatchers and ornithologists as a bird paradise. What makes this village special is the Vedanthangal

We were travelling in a taxi along a narrow road, guided by the direction boards, which had pictures of various birds. It was as if we were doing treasure hunting in the middle of paddy fields and grasslands. Finally, the car stopped. There, we found the treasure.

Within human families, generally parents earn a living and let their children have enough food, clothing and shelter. And in avian “families” too, parents offer fish, insects and shelter for their young ones. In addition, this village has also adopted several long term measures for conservation of birds. The ban on bright light at night and low levels of noise such as ensuring cracker-free Diwali are of examples of such conservation initiatives as birds, especially fledglings, are particularly sensitive to harsh light and sound.

It appeared to me that the people and birds strictly followed several“family” rules to live peacefully together. This village is one big family; villagers are parents and birds are children. The “parents” hold a family meeting

E.Vedachalam of Vedanthangal who, like everyone in the village, is an avian activist

When asked which bird is his favorite, E.Vedachalam said that was a difficult question because all birds were his favourites and like human parents who love all their children equally, he loved all birds equally

regularly to have an understanding of the rules. Not only are the rules applicable within the community, but they also have to make an agreement with the “neighbours” as well.

The villagers have even made an agreement with the people who own the backwaters of the lake and they too now follow the village rules for protecting the birds. Nomadic hunters, or the Narikuravas, who hunt bird here illegally, are reported to the government and expelled from the village.

Of course there are inconveniences that accompany implementation of these rules. Commercial ventures within 5km of this sanctuary are strictly banned.

Land trade with outsiders is prohibited as is commercial sale of land, which is certain to cause the destruction of nature and harm the birds. Even though they can expect economic improvement by encouraging the introduction of enterprises, the people of the village have willingly given up this tempting option.

The “children” not only receive the love and benefit from their parents.

They give a lot of return gifts to their parents. Birds eat insects, which prevent the need for insecticides on the crops.

The guano they deposit in the water acts as a highly efficient fertilizer so when water from the reservoir is channeled to irrigate the crops, no fertilizers are needed. In other ways such as the dispersal of seeds, eaten and deposited around the area, the birds make important contributions to the agricultural cycle.

This family also shares their happiness.

Whenever it rains, both the people and birds appreciate the rain: the people get irrigation water to cultivate rice, and the water birds living in or around water, which covers a major part of this sanctuary, have enough water in the lake. This happiness of the family also brings happiness to others: If it rains a lot and there are more birds, the tourists are also glad to enjoy the spectacle.

39

Madurai Messenger Village Voices February 2013

Once we entered the sanctuary, we were totally overwhelmed by the spectacle. We gazed at the thousands of birds, forgetting the passage of time Here in India, the well being of a family is the basis of the peace and security of the society!

Thus, this “family” lives like human families, but there is one big difference between this “family” and ordinary families. The size of the family is quite big! The members are a lot of birds as well as industrious villagers. There are about 2000 people in this village, almost all of who are farmers. 10 percent of them hold their own land, and the rest are working on their land as farm or agricultural labourers. Their lives are entirely dependent on farming, and most of them live below the poverty line. Now this village has some schools, which we saw on the way there, but about five decades ago, there was no school and the non literate people from the village had no other option but farming. And yet, the people from the village, whom we met, didn’t seem to be discontented with that. On the contrary, they were proud of being one of the members of this village.

40

When asked which bird is his favorite, E. Vedachalam said that was a difficult question because all birds were his favourites and like human parents who love all their children equally, he loved all birds equally. Even the pictures drawn on the sign boards on the way or inside the sanctuary seemed to be the portraits of their beloved children.

Main occupation in Vedanthangal is farming and agricultural labour

What makes this village special is Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, which is one of the oldest water bird sanctuaries in India. From November to March, this calm village is crowded with more birds than people

Prospects The people of Vedanthangal willingly sacrifice some of the obvious benefits of development for the sake of the precious children but the human parents are also thinking about plans for the future so that both they and their birdie

41 E.Vedachalam and T.Moorthy of Vedanthangal Panchayat talk about their bonding with the birds

Birds are not mere creatures living close to them. The presence of the birds is in their lives and their hearts children prosper. In order to encourage tourism in this area, the people have suggested a plan to build more guesthouses or parks more than 5 kms from the sanctuary (so as not to disturb the birds), as currently there is only one Forest Rest House.

Such initiatives will attract more tourists, which will create more employment opportunities in this village such as transportation, restaurants, bird guides and other allied jobs. Although it might be difficult to completely avoid a negative impact on the birds, the people were confident that the benefits will outweigh the disadvantages.

Strong bonds within the family is new for me, as those in Japan aren’t as strong as its Indian counterparts. For the people of Vedanthangal, the birds are “treasure”. For me, the family itself is a “treasure”. Then, what is “treasure” for you?

Vedanthangal “Paradise for birds” - you can see birds everywhere in the fields

Madurai Messenger First Impressions February 2013

Koncham Koncham...Nandri...

Touching Indian Soil

Describing herself as a free bird, Laetitia Saplana is at first annoyed by the many dos and don’ts on her arrival in Madurai. But gradually she finds herself falling in love with India and its people… koncham koncham… slowly but surely

What does it feel like when a dream comes true? For French national Adele Eude, visiting India has been a childhood trip. Here she recaptures her experiences when her feet touched Indian soil— a strange homecoming

By Laetitia Saplana

By Adele Eude

France

France

I

have been travelling in India, from the north to the south, for more than a month now. I have had many lovely impressions of this country such as the colour, religion, landscape, food, culture, traffic and the ubiquitous cows on the road…

42

Adele Eude, standing in one of the busy streets of Madurai

The majestic elephant of the temple city

When I arrived in Madurai, I was not disorientated. The only things which choked me were the rules of Tamil Nadu, because, I am a “Suthanthira paravai” or a free bird. So it was very difficult for me at first, but I found some solutions, because if there is no solution there is no problem. It’s part of my philosophy of life...

Every morning and evening, in the company with my “Nalavar” tea seller, I drink my tea. I try all the different foods, and learn the Tamil language “koncham koncham” (little by little). During my lunch, if possible, I go to the countryside in Pasumalai to connect with the local people and “Tamil Penn” (girls).

When I am walking along the small streets, everybody looks at me because I am “a white Indian girl” but when I smile and nod my head, the Indian behaviour is obvious, and we share smiles. Most of the time, people ask me to join them and the women don’t want me to eat my own lunch because they want to cook some dosa or masala puri for me. I eat alone or with them, and we “talk” with my few Tamil words, with eyes, with hands and we laugh a lot. Indians are very nice, and there is humanity in the people and place. I feel comfortable with them. This situation in

43

This situation in France is not possible. If you are smiling, the other person(s) often wonders if you are crazy. Nobody will offer to share food with you or to cook a meal. They don’t take time to get friendly France is not possible. If you are smiling, the other person(s) often wonders if you are crazy. Nobody will offer to share food with you or to cook a meal. They don’t take time to get friendly.

When I finish my day’s work, I go to the Pasumalai Shri Mariamman temple for my daily prayer, donation and to see my flower seller. When he and his family see me, they always smile and I can see in their eyes, they are pure people. I am used to seeing them braid garlands with great dexterity. Sometimes I make a garland with them and we

laugh because it’s not easy to do it and my hands often hurt. In France, most shopkeepers are closed to such kinds of communication.

Today, if I am in late or if I don’t turn up, people are anxious about me.

It’s a warm feeling because in my country, people don’t care much. They are too busy and self-absorbed. So “Nandri” (thank you) to these people from Sapnaa Laetitia! (Sapnaa is my Indian name! People here gave me this beautiful name).

I

ndia. Coming here is a dream come true...

From the age of seven, I have longed to visit India. I don’t know why. I just know I would like to discover this amazing country which is very different from my home country, France.

I was surprised to not find a seat belt in the taxi… in France it’s mandated by law, so it’s as much of a reflex as for me to put my belt on as it is for Indians to toot their horn!

So when I arrived in India, it was an important moment for me. I have seen lots of documentaries and films about India; I have read many stories about this destination, but it was more exciting to put my foot in India! I felt so many emotions …

and men are principally dressed in very warm tones! It seemed an oriental influence, an Asian spirit when I took the taxi in Madurai for the first time. I was surprised to not find a seatbelt in the taxi…in France it’s mandated by law, so it’s as much of a reflex as for me to put my belt on as it is for Indians to toot their horn!

Last year I had spent one month in Indonesia, and I think India is similar— crowded streets, multicoloured monuments and buildings, many temples, roaming animals and lush greenery. In both countries, women

Then, I discovered my lovely family, Latha and Mercy. They were so kind and warm to me, I’m very lucky to meet them. And I find Indian people generally smile a lot. In the West, India is famous

as a destination where some tourists are shocked or troubled by the differences in culture. For me it wasn’t a shock.

I’m just touched and happy to be here.

Maybe because I always wanted to go in India, I don’t know. And what’s more, the sun is here! For French nationals like me, it’s a treat in December!

I think Madurai Messenger will help me acquire good knowledge of journalism as a career, but I’m sure India will be a wonderful experience for myself and a good means to open my spirit, again and again!

44

45

Sponsored by:

www.maduraimessenger.org For Private Circulation Only Printed at Bell Printers Pvt. Ltd