VOLUME 1, ISSUE 12 November 2010
Give Children Their Rights
Sponsored by:
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CONTENTS
Contents November 2010 | Issue No. 12 Editor
Nandini Murali
EDITOR’S CORNER
03 The Cracked Pot COVER STORY
Assisted by
Ezhil Elango Media Relations Officer Coordinator
Joel Powel Abraham
04 Giving Children Their Rights: Fighting for a Voice in India PEOPLE 08 Cycling for Peace EVENTS 10 Saluting the Nation
Sivakasi Projects Abroad Pvt. Ltd., Reporters and Designers:
Camille Jucker Jessica Hall Thibault Bachmann Tomomi Hayata
Contact:
CULTURE
12 The Lights of Navaratri WEEKEND WANDER
14 The Taste of Tropical Asia
BOOK REVIEW
16 Solomon’s Predictable Return Home
FILM REVIEW
editor@maduraimessenger.org
17 Endhiran: If Machines were Humans…
MADURAI MESSENGER
No. 17, T.P.K Road Pasumalai Madurai – 625004 Tamil Nadu India Tel. 0452-2370269
18 Jigar Thanda: Taste the Thanda!
Cover Picture & Design:
Thibault Bachmann
EATING OUT
EDITOR’S CORNER
Madurai Messenger November 2010
The Cracked Pot Here is a story that I hope you will find meaningful: A gardener in China had two large pots, each hung on the ends of a pole which he carried across his neck. One of the pots had a crack in it, while the other pot was perfect. Therefore, the first one always leaked its water, while the second one always delivered a pot full of water. The gardener worked for the Emperor, and his job was to tend to His Majesty’s garden. Every day, he would go to the stream, fill his two pots to the brim, and then walk along the path of the palace to the main garden, where he would empty the pots onto the bushes. In addition, every morning, he would pluck the most beautiful flowers and take them to the King and Queen. They were very pleased with his work, designated him as the best gardener, and rewarded him handsomely. Over the years, the cracked pot was beginning to feel miserable, for he realized half the water the gardener was carrying leaked out on the way, and so his contribution to the Royal garden was negligible compared to the other pot’s. Therefore, one day he spoke thus to the gardener: “Sir, I am ashamed of myself. You take so much trouble to fill me with water each day, but because of an imperfection in me, you get only half the water you have filled. You do such hard work, but get hardly anything in return. Why don’t you just discard me into the rubbish heap and get yourself another perfect pot like the other one, so that your hard work gets even better rewarded by the Emperor. “ The gardener looked at the cracked pot lovingly and said: “let me show you something”. So saying, he carried the pot along the path from the stream to the Palace that they were used to traversing every day. Along the path, he showed a line of the most beautiful flowers on one side, but not on the other. The gardener then explained to the pot:” These are special and rare flowers, which require some water every day, but will wilt and die if given too much water in one go. Knowing that you have a leakage problem, I planted the seeds of these special flowers along one side of the path, and when I walk on it every day, I ensure that you and not the other pot is held over this side of the pathway. This way, every day, these flowers get exactly the amount of water they need. If I had planted them along with the other flowers in the main garden, they would have wilted and died long back, but see how gorgeously beautiful they are now? And, what is more, the special accolades I have received from the King are on account of these very flowers, which other gardeners are never able to provide the Queen with.” What the gardener was explaining to this cracked pot applies to all of us: Each of us has our own unique flaw. But it is the cracks and flaws we have that makes our lives so very interesting and rewarding. The Master Gardener who sent us to this world never looks at our flaws as flaws, but as essential parts of a Grand Design that is getting knit into the tapestry of the wonderful Whole.
Nandini Murali Editor
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COVER STORY
Giving Children Their Rights: Fighting For a Voice in India Dindigul, a sleepy small town neighboring Madurai, is home to an international Non-Government Organization called Peace Trust. Creator and Chairman, J. Paul Baskar talked openly with the staff of Madurai Messenger about his journey into the field of social activism and his devotion to helping prevent any child from working. Jessica Hall Victoria, Canada
Thibault Bachnann Geneva, Switzerland
Tomomi Hayata Tokyo, Japan Everyone knows it: children are working all over the world in extremely dangerous conditions for next to no money at all. A Unicef statistic collected from 1999-2008 reported that 12% of all Indian children are faced with labour. With a demographic of 446,960 aged 18 and under living in India, that makes 37,246 children working in India. Essentially slaves, children are forced to drop out of school, work night shifts, and eventually become completely estranged from their right to a childhood. Reasons behind child labour vary from HIV/AIDS infecting their parents and thus affecting their home life, to poverty, to restrictive labour laws preventing parents from getting jobs. Peace Trust recognizes this problem and has been fighting for these voiceless children ever since its inception in 1984. The NGO has been working to build study centers, educational institutions and even a broadcast radio to raise awareness, and to build the facilities children need for education. Through a sponsorship by Indiska Magasinet, a company based in Sweden and formally known as the East Indian Trading Company; Peace Trust is able to give money to their students, allowing them to buy essential school supplies, and compensate for their missing work wages at home. Indiska has built the facilities Peace Trust uses today,
and is continuing to fund Peace Trust. J. Paul Baskar, 51, creator and founder of Peace Trust has taken child rights to a new frontier in India, but is using his social activist knowledge to help other areas of this unbalanced society. He spends time lobbying for the nameless, and pushing politicians to recognize a hideous reality about their society.
Foundations of an NGO: J. Paul Baskar’s Inspiration for Peace Trust Baskar’s dedication to anti child labour regulations triggered an entire movement in India. He formed Peace Trust when he was just 26 years old and the NGO has been moving forward with growing recognition and force on an international level ever since. Baskar has received awards like the Honorary World Children’s Prize in 2004 which is acclaimed as the highest in child’s rights interventions. Baskar wasn’t a child labourer himself; his involvement in child labour began when he looked within his own hometown of Dindigul. A pivotal experience to his path of becoming an influential social activist was a flood in 1977 in Ambattur, a town just outside of Chennai. Other students from Loyola College of Chennai were going to help provide aid and Baskar decided to join.
“Many of the students studying at my college were not exposed to social issues. We would go to college, stay in the hostel, and being a middle class family we had our own problems. We were confined to the college life,” Baskar recalls. Teachers organized students to come and support the town, but Baskar noticed that even after the damage of the flood was controlled, the children were not attending school.
“After some time we didn’t go to college, after
Founder of Peace Trust, J. Paul Baskar
Madurai Messenger November 2010
a time we would just go help. It became almost a full time job.” Baskar said. He asked the parents why the children were not going to school. Their response was not agressive, but pleading, “If you are interested, give these children some lessons when you have free time.” Baskar went to the village with some fellow students to play with and teach the kids for a couple of hours each night. He wouldn’t force the children into learning, but their curiosity would often draw them in. It was around this time that Baskar started writing for a small school Journal called Thenmazhai, which was centered around social issues and where Baskar was introduced to a broader world of problems. He began to recognize that these kids weren’t just missing school, but were being forced into a life of slave labour and abuse. Because the families were so poor, the children could not afford to buy uniforms, notebooks, pens or pencils. Families needed extra money just to sustain themselves and provide food for everyone. As the damage from the flood cleared away, Baskar saw what was lying at the bottom of the village: perpetual poverty, uneducated children, and a life of abuse and exploitation. He took matters into his own hands and decided to make a change. Removing children from factories wasn’t going to be easy; the families obviously depended on the low wages their children were bringing home. The factories were going to notice when their little workers were missing hours and demand they come back to work.
Baskar devised a plan to simply distract the children with learning games and play time during their hours of work. The children’s parents would see them learning, laughing and living their childhood in a proper way, and couldn’t force the kids to go to work. A child center of sorts was founded, and as word spread, more and more children would stay with Baskar instead of going to work. It was in this way that Baskar convinced parents of the importance of a child’s development over making meager wages. Baskar recieved funding from Indiska and began Peace Trust around this time in 1984. This way, the families
“In India, the law is only paper” could depend on a stable income, while their children went away to learn and play. The child center grew into a school, and blossomed into other projects to help Indians in need. Today, Peace Trust draws attention to a plethora of social problems like environmental awareness, women’s rights, integrated watershed management programs, tsunami relief and migrant labour welfare programs to name a few.
The Cycle of Exploitation and Abuse
The companies that employ youth know that they are young, but they don’t care about age. Instead, they use this to their advantage and manipulate and exploit young workers. It is assumed that if workers continue in the same place for a long time, they usually build on their salary, but kids who start working around 16 or 17 without a good educa-
Vasuki, a former chilli powder worker at the age of 16 tion cannot dream of getting a raise in pay. Oftentimes they will not know how to claim more payment because they are too young to negotiate with their owners and don’t know their own rights.
In Their Own Words
“My name is Vasuki, I’m 16 years old. I was working in a chili powder company for a year when I was 15 because my father turned out to not be able to work because of an accident in a company. My mother also couldn’t work. I worked from 7a.m. to 7 p.m every day and the payment was 45 rupees (1.00 USD) per day. I discontinued school and stopped 9th standard.” Vasuki is now studying in Technical Teachers Certificate course for Tailor-
Impovershed children play in rubble and garbage near their home in Puducherry
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COVER STORY
ing of Peace Industrial School to become a teacher in government school. Peace Industrial School in Dindigul is just one of the projects undertaken by the Peace Trust. The school, sponsored by Indiska Magasinet, provides seven one year job oriented courses for rural poor youth and ex-child laborers who dropped out of school as well as funding to each student for school supplies. The school has 100 students whose ages range from 15 to 45, and most belong to scheduled castes. The majority of students we interviewed were youth who failed the government exam of 10th standard forcing them to start work. Many students were former drop outs because of a need for more money. Peace Trust replaces official institutions and gives an alternative opportunity for Indians through the creation of a charity school. Moreover, Peace Trust also gives “an encouraging and protective environment for enabling the children to achieve their fullest potential,” (Peace Trust Annual Report 09-10). Peace Trust provides many benefits and forms of support for its communities including: education support in the evening, financial assistance, health program for the children and their family, social and cultural activities and summer camps, all for children under 20. “I didn’t pass the government exam of 10th standard so I started working when I was 19. My parents are uneducated people and I grew up in a rural area,
but I don’t think I failed school because of my environment,” says Mahendra Pradap, 19 years old, studying in the Electrical Technician division. Is it true that there is no difference between growing up in rural area and in the city? Although the school curriculum and the level of teachers are the same in rural areas and in the city, the school facility is different and children are not able to concentrate on nor to be interested in studying when they are raised by uneducated parents who cannot help children’s studies. An environment where a
child can concentrate and study should be part of a child rights, but Mahendra didn’t have this opportunity, he had to fetch water for cooking, cleaning and
Article 3 of the 182 International Labour Organization Convention For the purposes of this Convention, the term the worst forms of child labour comprises: (a) all forms of slavery or practices similar to slavery, such as the sale and trafficking of children, debt bondage and serfdom and forced or compulsory labour, including forced or compulsory recruitment of children for use in armed conflict; (b) the use, procuring or offering of a child for prostitution, for the production of pornography or for pornographic performances; (c) the use, procuring or offering of a child for illicit activities, in particular for the production and trafficking of drugs as defined in the relevant international treaties; (d) work which, by its nature or the circumstances in which it is carried out, is likely to harm the health, safety or morals of children. C182 Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention, 1999 bathing during the evenings. This kind of natural inequality of birth could trap poor children in their impoverished lives. Mahendra knows his future without having a good education, that’s why he entered Peace Industrial School. He found a construction company through his uncle and was working from the age of 17 to 19. The salary was 200 rupees per day (4.50 USD). His mother is working in the same construction company but his father is not working. He realized that he needed to complete school when he got injured from a fall from the top of a building while working. Other students had the same kind of experience as Mahendra. They were put in a dangerous working place, but their salaries were lower than the salaries adults were recieving. “Other workers in an auto mechanic shop where I worked were older than me, around 35. I worked as hard as the other workers
Madurai Messenger November 2010
or even more, but I only got 80 rupees per day (1.75 USD),” Bala Krishnan said.
Time to Make a Change Where is the government in all of this? International legislation defines a child as any individual under the age of 18, whereas the Indian Constitutional Law defines an Indian child as anyone under the age of 14. The UN Child Rights Convention (CRC) asks signatory countries to forbid and persecute child labour. The Indian Constitutional Law says it prohibits work in any “factory or mine or any other hazardous employment but only for 24
any of
child under 14” (Art. India’s Constitution).
However, Baskar can attest that this is not always the case. “In kar the der ing
India, the law is only paper” Bassaid. He knows he has to make change at a grassroots level in orto create change, instead of waitfor the government to take action.
J. Paul Baskar himself lobbies for child rights in India and all around the world. He participated in a think tank for the redaction of the Convention 182 from the International Labor Organization (ILO), which attempted to define the worst forms of labor for children (Table 1). India didn’t ratify this Convention and all the human rights NGO are now fighting for approval. At the same time, during his trip to Geneva, he planned the Global March Against Child Labour. While abroad, J. P Baskar hasn’t given up his work at home. His local radio station, Pasumai Community Radio (FM 90.4) broadcasts information as well as music to listeners all over the Tamil Nadu and the world via online internet streaming. It is clear that the definition of a child should be changed to at least the age of 16 in India. This would allow children to complete secondary school and prepare for better careers before being ushered into the workforce. The NGO has a vision to “create an environment free from exploitation through promoting equal opportunities for the vulnerable, marginalized and poor people and women for ensuring sustainable de-
Hopeful smirks from two young girls busy playing velopment”, (Peace Trust Annual Report 09-10). In total, Peace Trust employs 75 staff to run the 6 different facilities they have in Tamil Nadu. The staff is responsible to teach, organize and advocate for youth and marginalized groups across the nation, but their voice and strength is being felt beyond Tamil Nadu. There are multiple ways for the Indian system to implement some sort of change in this weak legislation. The first option is to create a welfare or “care” system. This means that the government is obligated to provide positive incentives for children and their family. Free elementary school is an example of this. The second way for the government to take positive action is to improve the existing laws for protection of children and forcefully implement them. Baskar has little faith in the law, and has taken matters into his own hands while waiting for politicians to help. The nature of the problem is more complicated than the law is letting on. The massive degree of poverty in India, as well as the lack of education, forces families to find a way to sustain themselves in immoral ways. Factories come into play when they claim to provide a higher standard of life for the whole family if a child begins working for them, which is obviously untrue. That’s why Peace Trust is superseding government actions with projects to protect children now.
Staying Optimistic
Peace Trust goes beyond the law and provides education at a high level with the Peace Industrial School. Students can learn about different Hardware and Software equipment in addition to tailoring and crafts. In short, Peace Trust furnishes a completely safe environment for children, as well as stablility for future learning. J. Paul is proud of how far Peace Trust has come; the Industrial School celebrated its 10th anniversary on Saturday, October 10th. Baskar also plans to open a teacher’s institution beside the Industrial School, allowing teachers to continue improving and learning. Baskar is optimistic about the future of Peace Trust, but recognizes how far India and the world has to come in terms of recognizing child rights.
“We are only half way across the river, but we have to stay optimistic. We have to build confidence because they are depending on us,” Baskar said.
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PEOPLE
Cycling for Peace Tomomi Hayata meets Gandhian couple K Chitra and M Karuppiah whose mission is to promote Gandhian values by cycling across the country. The couple recently cycled 5000 km all the way from Madurai to the Wagah border which lies just between Pakistan and India. Tomomi Hayata Tokyo, Japan
This Gandhian couple from Madurai has a dream—to foster communal harmony and friendship between the peoples of India and Pakistan. On November 23, 2009, the couple set off on their bicycle to embark on a 5000 km expedition to the Attari-Wagah border in Pakistan. Their mission: to spread the Gandhian values of peace, tolerance and non violence.
Karuppiah is the founder, and his wife Chitra, acts as the Managing Trustee of the Gandhian National Integration Social Work Movement Trust (GNISWMT) established in 2004. The aim of GNISWMT is to promote Gandhian thoughts throughout India with a nonviolent movement. The expedition was to culminate at the Attari-Wagah border on March 12, 2010, to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the Salt Satyagraha.
But after covering nearly 4,750 kilometers across ten states, an accident seriously injured Chitra near Chandigarh. Chitra sustained injuries after a car toppled over and hit her while she was at a roadside eatery at Basantpura, just outside Chandigarh. The accident temporarily stalled progress, as Chitra was unconscious for three days. The couple, however, resumed their mission and reached Chandigarh by train. They finally reached their destination on August 11, 2010. They stayed until August 15, the 64th anniversary of India’s Independence Day. They participated in the world-famous Wagah border ceremony in which soldiers of India and Pakistan hoist their respective flags. Every evening, just before sunset, the huge iron gates barricading the border are closed with a bang and the flags are brought down.
Fascinated by Gandhian Thoughts Karuppiah and Chitra run a stationery business in T Aundipatti, near Vadipatti, a suburb of Madurai. They also provide a free institution centre for students, and are involved with several service organizations such as the Lions Club. Again, drawing from Gandhian philosophy, they founded their organization to promote communal harmony. Karuppiah has in fact completed a Diploma course in Gandhian thought offered by the Gandhi museum in Madurai. Interestingly, Chitra belongs to the Salangapalayam village near Erode in Tamil Nadu which is home to the only place in the country that has a temple for Gandhi and his wife Kasturiba. The temple was built by Vaiyapuri Mudaliar, a Gandhian and freedom fighter. According to Chitra, the Gandhi had Karuppiah and Chitra with a bicycle used for a long distance
Madurai Messenger November 2010
visited Erode during the Independence movement to create awareness among the people about the need for freedom for the country. The couple exudes a striking Gandhian simplicity. Karuppiah is dressed in white khadi dhoti and shirt. His wife is dressed in a white khadi sari and blouse. A Gandhian cap completes their attire. As their bicycles thread their way across small towns and villages, Karuppiah and Chitra stop when they see a knot of people. They take out their megaphone and distribute pamphlets that promote communal peace and harmony to the public. They begin with a prayer song. The couple promotes several messages through their bicycle campaign. They strive to address the issue of terrorism in the context of India-Pakistan. They also create awareness among people that it is the duty of every citizen to protect the nation against terrorism. The couple also seeks to foster unity and integration among Hindus and Muslims. The couple’s campaign is supported by social workers and Gandhians throughout the country. According to
the couple, they chose the bicycle as a mode of transport because it helps them to connect intimately with people at the grassroots. In contrast, they say that had they chosen train it would have seemed like a journey and besides they would not have been able to reach out to a wide cross section of people.
Long Journey for Peace In 1992, the couple cycled all the way form Madurai to Chennai with a group of local volunteers to promote Gandhian values. In 2001, the couple cycled from Sivakasi to Chennai. This was followed by a 118-day odyssey from Virudhunagar to Kashmir, followed by an expedition from Kanyakumari to Gujarat in 2002. The highlight of their expedition was cycling all the way from Sabarmati Ashram in Gujarat to Dandi—the historic site of the Salt Satyagraha. In 2006, they cycled from Madurai to Kashmir. “People will understand his thoughts if they know the entire story of Gandhi,” Karuppiah says. “People need to know Indian history. Gandhi chose non-violence because he felt that it was an honor to be born a human being and therefore people should not kill each other.”
Follow their belief and keep going on
Karuppiah and Chitra say that although Gandhi needs no introduction to the people of India, their bicycle campaign has still succeeded in instilling the essence of Gandhian thoughts in people’s minds. “Most people know about Gandhi, but they are not inspired by him. But local people we met seemed to be inspired and got time to think about Gandhi because of our bicycle movement and our pamphlets promoting Gandhain principles in local languages,” the couple added. The couple’s next destination is the North East of India where they will once again promote communal peace and harmony in the context of India-China geopolitics. “If we can reach North East India by bicycle, then we would have covered the entire length and breadth of the country by bicycle,” says the Gandhian couple with a mission. They admit that it is difficult to get permission from the state government to enter the state but that does not deter this courageous pair.
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EVENTS
Saluting the Nation During a 5 day Indian Army Exhibition, Camille Jucker fires guns, and learns how advertising for the army works in India. Jucker discovers the long history behind India’s Army and gets a preview of the prospective future. Camille Jucker Geneva, Switzerland
The Indian Army was born more than a thousand years ago. It was built around two fundamental epic wars of Ramayana and Mahabharata. Nearly 400,000 troops foght on chariots, horses and elephants. For the past thousand years the Indian Army has evolved the same as all other armies of the world. It counts approximately 1.1 million men and women all over India. All these people are placed in different divisions and designated to a function. For example, the Infantry, “ The least spectacular at all arms, but without which you can do nothing, nothing at all.” This division is one of the biggest divisions in the Indian Army. This army is also constituted by
three major sectors. An air force, a marin and a territorial military. All the Indian Army staff are under the orders of the Chief of the Army Staff. ( COAS), General VK Singh. He has occupied the office since the 31st of March 2010. He belongs to the third generation officer of the Rajput Regiment. The military service is not compulsory in India. Everyone who joins it is a volunteer. That’s why every year the Indian Army has organized an Army Exhibition in many different Indian cities where there are not military stations. The aim of the exhibition is to discover all activities of the Indian Army. To give to everyone the opportunity to learn more about their army and their country. For the first time, an Army Exhibition happened in Madurai. During a five
days period ( 15 to 19 October 2010), all schools of Madurai came to visit the exhibition. It happened in a big beautiful park at “ Tamil Nadu Special Police Ground” in Reserve Line in Madurai. A lot of different activities and displays are proposed. You can see the technological advancement in military hardware. You can also test different guns, anti aircraft guns, sophisticated small arms, a nuclear warfare protection suit and a lot of other weapons and gadgets. You can learn how a bomb works and where it could be placed. In the main area you can enjoy a lot of interesting shows such as body builders, famous Indian Army gymnastic, malkhamb from Maharashtra, martial art from Kerala and many other displays. There is also an exclusive night vision device. You are able to talk with
Soldiers performing a militaristic traditional ritual
Madurai Messenger November 2010
men and women from the Indian Army who are present during the exhibition. You can ask them about all army subjects, they will give you all information you want. There is a recruitment office where you can find the most important conditions to apply to the army. You will learn that the first one is age. In order to enlist, you have to be 17 years old and 6 months. The rules are the same for men and women. In the same office you can have a look at a big black board where all salaries are freely displayed. You can compare how much money per year a colonel or a soldier makes. You will be able to see almost all the different divisions and groups which constitue the Indian Army, such as the Infantry, the National Cadet Corps, the Manufacturing and the Medical divisions. A concession stand makes food and drink readily available to all. The entrance is totally free, which is an attractive point of the exhibition. There is no age limit, everybody is welcomed. Adults and kids can have a lot of fun.
Students at the Army Exhibition
All activities are organized carefully so everyone will enjoy and learn some interesting things about the history of the Indian Army. It is possible to learn a lot of things about the political and economic situation of India at the same time. Important men of the Indian Army are present at the exhibition too, such as the Colonel Sudipto Roy Commanding Officer Training Battalion-1 Madras Engineer Group Bangalore-42. He is one of the highest men present at the exhibition. This exhibition and all performances are a way to instill patriotic fervors in the youth of the country. It is a way to motivate them to join the Indian Army. It is also a way to show to many people the power of the Indian Army, to make them proud of their army and of their nation. It will give a kind of safety feeling to the Indian people who visit the exhibition as they learn of their army’s strength. At the same time, it is a way for Indian people to express their gratitude to the soldiers for their motto of “ Service before Self”.
Students trying an anti-aircraft gun
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CULTURE
The lights of Navaratri
Thibault Bachmann Geneva, Switzerland
The lights of Madurai were out. From October 9th to the 18th , the Navaratri Festival’s nights illuminated the sky of cultural capital of Tamil Nadu. The glow of the new moon and the illuminated towers of Meenakshi temple were now the only lights in the city. The colorful glance of the city were extinguished. The Navaratri Festival celebrates the coming new moon, which signifies the beginning of the struggle between Goddess Durga, a feminine symbol of Power, and Mahishasura, the king of Asuras, a symbol of demons. The three days preceding the festival are the darkest of the year. They represent the darkening of the world, caused by the
evil Mahishasura. Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva, who in myth are unable to defeat the dark power, offered Durga multiple powers and holy weapons to become the Warrior Goddess. On the 9th October the lunar eclipse ends and the moon enters a new phase. As in many religions, the light is a symbol of positive energy! In Hinduism, the moon’s ascent is also important.
The Rise of the New Moon
People celebrate the slow resurrection of moonlight on earth. They brighten the obscurity of the night by illuminating the temple, and the city then celebrates the slow resurrection of light on Earth. Now Navaratri means “nine nights” and each night is devoted to an
avatar of Durga. The first three nights are devoted to Goddess Durga in her infantile form. The next three worship the Goddess Lakshmi and the last three days, Goddess Saraswati. Each day coincides with an growing form of the goddess. Corresponding with the final ascent of the new moon, the tenth day celebrates the victory of good over evil.
How do Madurai Cites celebrate this festival?
There are fun activities like dazzling dance performances, special sweets and spending time with friends and family. The main way to glorify the gods is through dolls. Indeed, the tradition calls for the offering of dolls of gods to the temples. Thus, people going to the Meenakshi temple can enjoy the vari-
A Dolls Arrangement at the Meenakshi Temple
Madurai Messenger November 2010
ety of effigies in the shaded walkways. Each day, flowers and fruits are offered to Durga. Even though the festival focuses on the worship of Durga, people bring dolls representing any of the gods. There are no fixed rules in the glorification of gods. The Nine Nights Festival has an interesting legend behind it that attests to this. The dolls arrangement takes a new step in Maduraiites homes.
The victory of the light over the darkness is then honored in the homes of Hindu believers. Usually, the families are implementing a Golu in their own home; a Golu being a doll arrangement. The traditional Navaratri Bommai Golu comprises of nine steps with the Raja-rani or the Marapaachi Bommais, which are wooden dolls symbolizing the union of a man and a woman. These dolls
are expensive but are a source of pride for the whole family because they are passed from generation to generation. The ninth day of the festival glorifies young women because Durga is also the deity of feminine power. On the tenth day, nine young Kanyas, virgins, are offered clothes and sweets. They each represent an avatar of Durga. People can also appreciate a Venaa concert provided by the “Veenai Vazhipadu Mandram� orchestra. A Venaa is a sort of zither. According to a report from The Hindu (Issue 18th Oct. 2010), one hundred and eight Venaa girls participated in the performance. The practice is far from the original theory, and end of the festival takes on a new turn. Because of the diversity of Navaratri Festivals across India, there are many ways to celebrate the festival. In Kerala for example, it is the principle of education that is celebrated, making books the main object worshipped. In Gujarat or Maharashtra, they revere respectively painted earthen pots or images of Goddess Durga. Thanks to globalization, the Nine Nights Festival is famous all around the world. Many blogs discuss the celebration of the mother Durga in the United States. The sounds of the festivities can reach the ears even of the French media. Now, fervent people anticipate the Diwali Festival to see the revival of the lights.
Wish You a Happy Diwali!
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WEEKEND WANDER
A Taste of Tropical Asia Madurai Messenger Journalist Jessica Hall shares what sparked her interest in travel. Hidden away from the popular tourist destination, Laos offers a peaceful, authentic South East Asian vibe with an interesting French colonialist influence. Jessica Hall Victoria, Canada A lush green forest lay all around, with giant, tropical leaves fanning my face from the humid air as I walked through the city of Luang Prabang in a small country called Laos. Shades of shimmering gold, jewel toned purples and rich blue silks and scarves swayed back and forth in the doorways of little white houses. Tanned Asian faces smile shyly by fresh fruit stands as colourful tuk-tuks
putter by. Traffic is lulled, and the warm air seems to make time swell, allowing for my senses to absorb the peaceful city leisurely.
along the horizon, catching clouds out of the sky to paint breathtaking sunsets of orange and pink. Every blink felt like a photograph.
Nestled between China, Burma, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia, Laos is a completely landlocked country. The landscape consists of densely forested mountains, which slope high and low
Taking the Plunge
While no ocean shoreline reaches Loas, plenty of water flows through the city. My two friends and I took an hour long tuk tuk drive out of the small city, and ventured deep into the mountains in search of a giant waterfall, known as the Kuang Si Waterfall (pictured). Hiking up the mountain side was done easily, as tiny wooden steps had been placed in hard to maneuver areas; at one point the tiny steps twisted over a rock face, which was covered by rushing water. Going down the other side was tricky, as the steep rock face was slippery with water and the earth was loose. After slipping and sliding down a mountain, I emerged from the bushes to look over a giant pool created by the waterfall. My body was covered in dirt and sweat, and without hesitation I jumped into the cool, quick flowing water. After swimming for a while in the pool, I noticed that the waterfall tier was just high enough to jump off of. As I mustered courage to jump, I could feel tiny fish nibbling at my toes in the water. My friend and I decided to jump together. We cautiously walked out to the middle of the tier, and were constantly being pushed forward by the rushing water. I looked at her, and she looked at me. We held hands and dove off into the bubbling water below.
An Untouched Asia
Tiny wooden steps snaking up Kuang Si Waterfall
The ancient capital city, Luang Prabang echoes a rich history of an untouched tropical Asia, one that I struggled to find elsewhere while backpacking in South East Asia. In some of the other countries I visited, the dependency on tourism was
Madurai Messenger November 2010
more evident than I’d imagined. While the tourist bars were fun, it wasn’t authentic and I could feel the contrived nature of the South East Asian culture to fit western needs. In Laos, the forest hushed the city, and tiny restaurants closed early. I wandered around the streets and looked through gates concealing Buddhist Monks in bright orange robes as they meditated and sang. I stayed at a hostel called the Spicy Lao. It had a large common area, which was a nice place to meet other backpackers. People from all over the world sat on cushions and blankets on the floor, and we all spoke together of our past travels, and our future plans. A large part of backpacking consists of the people you
My friend and I diving off the waterfall meet along the way, and the Spicy Lao Hostel had a constant flow of interesting travelers to meet, travel and share stories with. Our small group of hodgepodge backpackers talked well into the evening, in spite of the mosquitoes. The street vendors were recommended to me by a friend who’d been to Lao. I was apprehensive about eating food from the street for health reasons, but figured I’d give it a shot. Heaping plates of rice, noodles, vegetables, spring rolls and more were precariously balanced on a cart on wheels. The woman working asked me for 7000 Kip, the equivalent of $1 US and gave me a plate which I could fill to my hearts desire. The food was warm, spicy and flavourful. I ate
till I couldn’t fathom another bite and trudged home to my dorm styled room to fall asleep on my bunk bed. The narrow, cobbled streets looked French, the landscape looked Asian, and the food was a fantastic combination of the two. From cooking classes, to elephant rides, there is a lot to find and do in Luang Prabang. While on the bus to the airport, I could feel the memories I’d just made surge into a part of me I wouldn’t soon forget. Laos is part of the reason I’ve become fascinated with traveling and seeing the world; its raw beauty and cultural honesty was the reason I’d come to explore South East Asia.
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BOOK REVIEW
Solomon’s Predictable Return Home Jessica Hall Victoria, Canada
The beginning of R Bhakther Solomon’s book, Solomon Returns Home pictures a young boy of the age of 13 emerging in a bustling city, Thrivandrum in the southernmost district of Kerala during the 60s. He is alone, and begins to cry. Solomon is overwhelmed by the new city, as he has just run away from his family and hometown of Colachel, a small port on the Malabar Coast 60 km away. With no family, next to no money, and no change of clothes, Solomon embarks upon a journey into street life. He sleeps on the ground in the train station, reminiscing about his bed at home. He has no plans or prospects and worries about his future as he drifts off to an uncomfortable sleep. As days pass, Solomon realizes he must work in order to sustain himself and make a living. He reluctantly starts working on the street, and thus begins a string of menial jobs in order to make end’s meat. Solomon’s first job is that of a porter, or a “coolie”. He helps train passengers with their luggage as they board and exit the trains. He struggles with the heavy bags, and manages to make around 25 paise a day, affording him one meal. Solomon learns some important life lessons as he debates returning home. He learns of exploitation as he is taken advantage of as a young street child by the wealthy and powerful. He learns that, “exploitation of the most vulnerable by the most powerful is common in our society,” (43). His faith is tried and tested, and he learns that without the love and sympathy of others, there is no way he would be able to survive on the streets. Solomon moves around the south and moves in with a Muslim family, working for their family shop. The family adopts Solomon into their lives without question, but when Solomon’s relatives randomly stop by the Bhai family
knows he must return home. Solomon is of course welcomed back into his family with open arms. He relishes being with his family, but knows he will never forget the lessons learned during his 6 months on the streets. The book is written from Solomon’s perspective, readers hear his stomach grumbling, they see his sorrow and they feel his pain. Solomon’s voice is interjected by a strong narrative voice however. The adult voice randomly inserts statistics, moral perspective and religious doctrine that get in the way of Solomon’s adventure and interrupts the flow of the story. The book at times gets confusing as the narrator takes up almost entire chapters to preach to readers, completely ignoring the plot. Solomon’s reason for leaving home is never made explicitly clear. During a day dream about school, Solomon touches on owing a friend money as the reason for his fleeing, but never elaborates. Readers never learn what exactly he owed money for, to whom, or how much. It is only mentioned briefly twice in the entire narrative while so much of the story complains of his hunger. The title of the story is a clear give away; one which can frustrate readers as they wait for Solomon to make up his mind and return home. The overtones of Biblical allusions and Christian doctrine can drag on, and cloud the storyline, especially when it is presented in such a mature voice. It is clear that Bhakther Solomon is interjecting his own opinion throughout the story. The story of Solomon is actually based on the author’s own experience. Bhakther Solomon relives his estranged life on the streets through the narrative, and that’s why so much opinion bleeds through into the story. His own religious practice also overshadows everything in the novel, as the bible is quoted on different occasions, and passages are discussed. An interesting instance in the novel is when the narrator explains how
differently the family feels about the situation from Solomon. Of course they miss him immensely, but Solomon is under the impression that his sin is unforgivable. He fears he cannot return home. His parents on the other hand, would have readily forgotten the disappearance altogether if Solomon had of returned, and they prayed everyday that he would come back. This shows a difference of religious perspective based on circumstance. While Solomon is desperately praying that his sin could be forgiven, his family is praying that Solomon will return, already forgetting the “sin”. Solomon views his escape as a sin, whereas his parents see his absence as a sin and just want him to be home safely with them. The book is a quick read, but lacks character development and storyline. While the statistics and facts are interesting, they disrupt the flow of the story and change the child-like perspective of Solomon into that of a grown and experienced man. However, when Solomon finally does return home, an emotional ending is undeniable and a touching family reunion will warm any heart.
Madurai Messenger
FILM REVIEW
November 2010
Endhiran: If Machines were Humans… Tomomi Hayata discovers Endhiran to be a delightful combination of Hollywood sci-fi and Tamil films, and says that the technically brilliant film is worth watching!
Tomomi Hayata Tokyo, Japan
Endhiran draws from the standard Hollywood sci-fi, but has evolved into something completely different. Audiences are stunned by superstar Rajinikanth’s youthful looks, who in real life is 65 years old. In the movie, however, he plays the role of Vasi, who is just 25 years old! Although the versatile actor and martial arts exponent Jackie Chan dazzles, he does not get to play fiancé to the beautiful young Aishwarya Bachchan! The movie starts with scientist Dr. Vasi’s efforts to create an andro humanoid named Chitti. He wants to offer Chitti to the Indian Army but is rejected by Dr. Vohra (Danny), who is Vasi’s ex mentor. Dr Vohra also makes robots that he wants to sell to terrorists, but nevertheless rejects Chitti because according to him, Chitti lacks humanity. Vasi then restructures Chitti and introduces the humanity factor. Chitti acquires human feelings and this has unanticipated consequences for Vasi. The twist comes when Chitti falls in love with Vasi’s fiancé, Sana. Chitti becomes consumed
with his love for Sana and cannot concentrate on anything else, and Vasi is forced to destroy his creation. Dr. Vohra steals parts of Chitti and turns it into a destroyer android. The first part of the film is like any other sci-fi film from Hollywood. The process by which Chitti learns and develops reminds one of The Terminator played by Arnold Schwarzenegger, who learns human emotions and actions in Terminator 2. The technical quality in Endhiran is exceptional and is on par with the best in Hollywood. The changing movement of the combined robots is amazing. However, Endhiran is different from Hollywood sci-fi films in that the completely human robot falls in love with another human being. This leads to several hilarious moments in the film. This sense of the comic is also another aspect Endhiran has on Hollywood, making it even more unique. Endhiran even has generous doses of parody. Besides the robot angle, we also have the
romantic angle of the love between Vasi and Sana. It could be said that the film is a two-in-one combination of Hollywood and Tamil movies. Overall, the movie offers a number of surprises for the viewer. A.R. Rahman’s music is catchy as is the foot tapping choreography. The dance sequences are fascinating, especially dance segments by Kadhal Anukkal. Although not related to the story, it is fresh and joyful. Rajini’s performance is incredible, as he plays three different characters, all of them charming and endearing! Endhiran is one of the most exciting films this year and is worth watching.
Director: S. Shankar Cast: Rajinikanth,Aishwarya Rai,Danny Denzongpa, etc. Language: Tamil Country: India Year: 2010 Official Website: http://www.endhiran-the-film.com/ watch?v=LRZBPvsC0L4
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EATING OUT
Jigar Thanda: Taste the Thanda! Madurai Messenger decides to explore the mystique of Jigar thanda, the most famous thirst quencher of Madurai that boasts of a Made in Madurai tag dating back to the nineteenth century! Thibault Bachmann Geneva, Switzerland
Why it is so famous?
Jigar Thanda has an interesting history that sounds more like an epic story. The Muslims first adopted this juice because of its medicinal value. Between the 13th and the 19th century, while India was under Muslim rule, an ethnic community, called the Sourashtra was enslaved. The Sourashtra made a peculiar digestive drink to be taken after a royal banquet. The drink was regarded as powerful antidote after the sumptuous feast of briyani, so naturally, it was popular among Muslims. After the fall of the Muslim domination, the little community came back to Madurai and introduced this drink to the local inhabitants. Soon after, it became popular as a thirst quencher!
In
Today Jigar Thanda is an inseparable part of local culture. Stephen (44), a Jigar Thanda maker, can attest to this. For 18 years, as an independent hawker, he has been selling Jigar Thanda to roadside customers. He now works for one of the biggest chain of beverage stores, run by his brother Ismail, who started the first shop in the family-run business in 1992. Ismail is the retail king of Jigar Thanda and owns a chain of 33 shops! Stephen is one of the 18 brothers in the family who are part of this venture.
The concoction is simple: Take generous helpings of the latex of the badam tree which is then sun dried until it reaches a sugar candy consistency. This is then soaked in water until it softens and becomes thread like. Once the thick creamy milk is boiled and condensed the thread-like latex is mixed with the milk to which ice is also added. Lastly, a few drops of sweet syrup is added and all the ingredients are then blended in a liquidiser. Voila! You get the most popular beverage in Maduraï. Interestingly, pure Jigar Thanda avoids the use of chemicals.
Like his 18 brothers, he is very proud to serve the famous drink to the people of Maduraï. Each brother contributes something a little different to the business. One brother, for instance, makes the ice. Even if the whole family uses the ice made by the elder brother, T. Stephen, however, says, “the handshake and the way the ingredients are combined make each drink original!” He is proud of his job and says, “I make the most appreciated iced juice in Maduraï. People come to ask me to make Jigar Thanda for weddings or birthdays.”
Have a freezy break ! the scorching heat of summer in Madurai, even the very mention of Jigar Thanda will make you thirst for this summer quencher. Jigar Thanda is Madurai’s most famous and tastiest cold drink. Jigar means drink; Thanda means cold.
Jil Jil Jigar Thanda
There is no mass production of this sacred beverage. It isn’t even made in advance but freshly made on demand! Stephen carries his Jigar Thanda shop with him! The mobile unit consists of his own fridge with a stock of ice, and his “bar” with all of the instruments he needs. So if you are looking for something to celebrate, call Mr. Stephen and he will be happy to provide you and your guests with some fresh brewed Jigar Thanda. And don’t worry; there will be enough for everybody. Stephen is a kind of “mass homemade producer” and he can make a thousand glasses in an hour! There’s no way to do it yourself, as it takes something like two hours just to condense the milk and it will not taste the same because the family keeps is own ingredients secret! Despite the fact that this drink is an age-old recipe, Jigar Thanda makers still have space for innovation. Most Jigar Thanda makers in Madurai are constantly trying out innovations. Ismail has just launched his latest flavour in one of his stores in Milan’em Mall. Your favourite drink could now taste of jelly, chocolate or strawberry! The festival season also offers Maduraians the opportunity to taste a new avatar: the Jil Jil Jigarthanda!
Latex from Badam Tree
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