BIRDIE Issue One
March 2018
Fashion - Beauty - Wellbeing - Culture
Wang Fest The Bloody Bombshell London Fashion Week Trends
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Contents
Issue One
Fashion Introduction Retrospective London Fashion Week London Fashion Week Insight on... Fur London Fashion Week Insight on... Plastic
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Beauty Introduction Fresh Faced Wangfest Budget Beauty 2018 Makeup Lookbook
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Wellbeing Introduction Everyday is a Fresh Start Just Breathe The Bloody Bombshell Instagram, the Worst App for your Mental Health?
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Lifestyle Introduction The Independent Film’s 21st Century Dominance Are We Still Friends?
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Regulars Monthly Disscussion - Slut Shaming Birdie’s February Mixtape Thought of the Month
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Editor’s Letter March can be a hard month for many people for many reasons, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, you have just managed to push your way through the longest most frustrating month of the year, so drink to that. Secondly, congratulations on wading through the oozing soppiness that is valentines day, and hopefully learning the all important lesson that is self love. Spring is all about rebirth and that’s exactly the morals and values we keep here at BIRDIE. We are always reinventing what it means to be a woman today. Where some magazines are covering the blooming flowers and prancing deer, BIRDIE aims to consistently delve into modern day culture. If you want to eat that box of chocolates then do it, because hell to the idea that happiness is something that you should stress over. In the wise words our writer Hannah Tinsley, “Happiness is a choice,” Make those choices that are going to enable you to become a happier, more productive member of society. If there is one thing guaranteed to aid my pursuit of happiness, it’s this month’s timely tradition of Fashion Week. We have a massive fashion section this issue, covering almost every aspect of the runway to the after-hours parties. The rest of the magazine is brimming with makeup ideas, deep philosophical thought, and beautiful pictures; so, take some time to absorb that baby pink colour we all love so much. As you reach the end of the magazine keep the good vibes flowing as you listen to the BIRDIE playlist, and if you take one thing away, it’s that happiness is not a foreign concept, it’s just around the corner.
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Georgie Raves is the talented illustrator behind those desirable fashion sketches you spy on the Instagram explore page. Her soft yet raw work is a playful interpretation of minimalism mainly focusing on diversity and feminism. For this issue of Birdie, we have selected a few illustrations that caught our eye. From the little character sketches to the high-end fashion illustrations. 7
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SLUT Shaming A major part of culture, slut shaming is something the masses now look past as simple banter. Not only is it damaging to a persons emotions but also adds to the growing threat of rape culture in an already F@*�ed up world.
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BIRDIE’S VIBES
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OF THE MONTH
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Zendaya and stylist Law Roach at Burberry
FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHModel Jourdan Dunn at Burberry ION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION Alexa Chung at JW Anderson FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHAnna Wintour and Cardi B at Alexander Wang ION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHION FASHUN FASHION FASHUN FASHION 20 www.magazinebirdie.wixsite.com/mysite
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Front row at Simon Rocha
Fashion Week 2018
Flashes of light and the click of a stiletto heel hitting the runway in perfect unison, with the music sounds like Italian opera to many of us out there. The first long months of the year are broken up with some of the most fashionable events, all dressed in such prestige clothing that is only matched by the imaginations of the designers that drew them into existence. Unfortunately, few are selected to sit in the chairs that line runways, but do not fear. We have collected the highlights of this year’s fashion week and laid them out as simple as this year’s Armani collection. It is a rare moment when fashion royalty and a Hip-Hop princess are pictured together. When American Vogue Editor in Chief, Anna Wintour met Bodak Yellow Babe, Cardi B’s snapchat and Instagram went off. Just by looking at the picture can you already hear Cadi B’s tongue pop and other confusing noises that leave her mouth mid-sentence. Later that week, during the Richard Quinn show, Wintour was photographed once again sitting alongside none other than the Queen of England! Front rows at fashion week have always been something of a legend, where celebs from across major industries gather to witness the magic strutting before them. The usual fashion moguls like Alexa Chung were pictured, while the cast of blockbuster Black Panther was also seen to be wearing an African inspired wardrobe. This year, Burberry designer Christopher Bailey walks one last time down that runway with his final official Burberry collection. He has single-handedly remade the image of the brand after those unfortunate years that Burberry was trashy and easy to copy. For his final show, Christopher Bailey pays special homage to LGBTQ youth with a flurry of rainbow prints and signature trench coats. Opening the show with the model of the year Adwoa Aboah, Bailey instantly made his final show one to remember. Cara Delevingne closed the catwalk wearing a faux fur rainbow coat, probably one of the most desirable yet unforgiving pieces of the collection. 2018 was defiantly the most diverse fashion week yet, with models from all walks of life working as one for a common goal. To some people who think fashion can be frivolous, I say you are right, but fashion week is so much more than that. It has become a cultural hotspot, oozing with talent and esteem from across the globe. Take Fashion Easts designer, Supriya level, an Indian born powerhouse of colour and vibrancy that sent girls down the runway decorated with elaborate steel jewelry and neon patterned dresses.
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Highlights of Fashion Week
Fur
The use of fur within the fashion weeks has been something of controversy for many years and this year we have seen less and less of those skunk tails. The fox fur is no longer the fashion statement is used to be decades ago and we’re quite happy about that. The rage from protesters hasn’t exactly stopped, however the change in designer’s perspective is showing promise. Not a great deal of fur has been found on this year’s LFW catwalks after 90% of designers confirming to the British Fashion Council that they will not be using fur. However, this hasn’t stopped the protest group Surge, co-founded by Ed Winters, 250 of whom stood outside venues with billboards calling for the BFC to ban fur within fashion all together. Winters stated that he’s expecting this number of protesters to rise as they specifically target London Fashion Week to “raise awareness” and as it has a “huge impact on what’s desirable.” On the other hand, many of the powerhouse designers such as Gucci, Vivienne Westwood and Armani are changing their vision to become more environmentally friendly for animals, which has started a wave of transformation in the industry. Designers have started to use faux fur instead of real fur within their clothing lines; Cara Delevingne wore a faux fur rainbow coat for Burberry, encapsulating their support for the LGBTQ community. In addition, Tom Ford has only been using faux fur this year as a biproduct after turning vegan and years of using colourful fox furs on his catwalks. So,
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these are the changes people want to see? Building for equality of humans is in full force, and now it also seems that animal safety and equality is also at the forefront of the argument when it comes to fashion. Norway has become the 14th country in the EU to start to phase out fur farming, according to Humane Society International. The progress seen within the fashion industry is inspiring, while the “normal people” keep campaigning for this equality and the moguls of the industry hear their calling and move with the beliefs of today’s society.
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Highlights of Fashion Week
Transparance
The most out there trend of 2018, is transparent but to be specific, plastics. Made for the British summer time (lets be honest, we do experience a fair amount of rain), this spring/summer we’re channelling plastic transparent macs, heels and hats. First seen on last season’s catwalks, the synthetic fabric made its way into the collections of all our sartorial favourites. This year, Chanel presented its polymers to the backdrop of a waterfall – great for spring showers. No longer only for festival weekends, but appropriate for street wear and rainy summer BBQ’s. Layer a PVC coat onto of a basic denim jacket for a heightened casual look. From the foot of Kim K to you, Boohoo have designed a pair of heels, £32 nude and plastic, these shoes will place all the focus on the rest of your outfit, while accentuating your legs. Take the festival look anywhere and give your worn out last season mac a break with Toposhop’s swish plastic poncho at £18. In many ways, the trend is almost symbolic of where fashion is reflecting the climate change. On a surface level, a glitter rain coat can really up your everyday game, transporting you from miserable macs to bang on trend for this season.
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fresh faced T S E F G N A W
Upon entering 2018, we’re all thinking of the different ways to change ourselves through mindfulness, fitness and the different trends of fashion. However, Alexander Wang is setting a new stage to celebrate individuality. While the New Year is centred around change, the make-up style choice of Wang has been to build of your own individual style without changing yourself into a character; which has been the brief of so many previous seasons. So, take a look in the mirror girls and let’s start to see ourselves! The #WANGFEST models were picked for their individual style and became the inspiration behind their runway make-up. The make-up artist, Diane Kendalsaid said “We’re enhancing their natural features, so the makeup is fresh, luminous and healthy. It’s about their individual style and how the girls dress themselves” in reference to Wang’s runway make-up. All the different styles parading through the catwalk in Wang’s New York shows are matched through the natural tones of their make up; creating a luminous and natural feel. This literal, fresh new perspective is exactly what 2018 women need from these giants in the industry, as self-expression is the new ‘you’ rather than using make up to transform
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into someone you’re not. This beauty trend has been seen throughout the SS18 spectrum, with Victoria Beckham and Mansur Gavriel letting go of statement make-up and creating raw personality through skin care. Although this may all seem very straight forward to just use a minimal amount of make-up, the preparation for the model’s skin might be excessive for the everyday woman, like us. The model’s hyper-prepped skin is boosted with 7 different products, even before applying any make-up. Even more shockingly, it takes 15 NARS products to become #WANGFEST ready. Pat McCarthy states “there’s grooming here, but the look is really natural.” Although this being highly unrealistic for us who wake up at the crack of dawn, it’s a real testimony to see the industry and designers are identifying individual characteristics as a basis of our make-up and style. Backstage at the Mansur Gavriel show, Lizo, the lead make-up artist for NARS told Vogue to “Think of this make-up as a good reality check for all the heavy social media make-up”, explaining that the fresh-faced look can be considered the opposition of “selfie-make-up”. Our Instagram article battles with the dilemma of social media and it’s intim-
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BUDGET Beauty Words By Olivia Phelps
Whether your goal is to mattify, illuminate, or simply smooth the skin, one of these PS.Pro primers will get the job done. If you’ve got oily skin, your best bet is to use the mattifying primer as the perfect base to your foundation. On the other hand, if you’ve got dry or combination skin, the illuminating primer will help to even out the dullness in your dry patches. Or if you’re just looking for a good all-round primer, the miracle primer will be your best pal - not too matte or too illuminating, it will provide a smooth complextion fro your foundation to glide over. At just £5, from Primark, you really can’t go wrong!
Makeup Revolution Conceal and Define concealer is sending beauty bloggers and make-up guru’s into a frenzy. This concealer is said to rival the coveted Tarte Shape Tape, and at only £4 we can see why! With 18 - YES 18! - shades, there’s a colour and undertone for every skintone in this collection. The long-wear formula boasts a lightweight velvety feel but surprisingly a very full coverage. The finish is seamless and matte, with no need to for setting with powder. The product works well with all skin types, from dry to oily, and can be used as a liquid contour that will blend seamlessly into your foundation for a natural defined look. You can find this gem in store and online at Superdrug.
Looking for volumised, lengthened lashes with out the falsies? Look no further, L’Oreal Volume Million Lashes is here to save the day. The so-called “Millionizer” brush has a multitude of bristles which separate lashes for a fanned-out effect. The wand is ultra flexible with both long and short bristles to help coat each lash evenly from root to tip. The mascara tube features an excess wiper which removes excess mascara: no overload, no clumps. The mascara is amazing and delivers on the big three- length, separation and volume . It has a buildable formula, allowing you to take your look from natural daytime to glam evening in a flash. Pick up your tube of Volume Million Lashes at your local Boots or Superdrug for £9.99.
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Arguably one of the best foundations at the drugsore, make-up artists and beauty novices alike fell in love with the L’Oreal Infallible Pro-Glow foundation. It’s soft and luminous finish adds just the right amount of glow and radiance to the skin without l;ooking greasy or oily. This foundation has a buildable formula and offers medium to full coverage depending on what tools you use to apply it and how much you apply. Probably best suited to those who have dry or normal skin, it won’t cling to any dry patches and doesn’t settle into fine lines. For those with oily skin that enjoy using glowy foundations we recommend that you use a mattifying primer underneath to help prevent your natural oils from breaking through. Priced at £10.99, the foundatoin comes in a range of 12 shades with varying undertones, so you should be able to find a match for your skin. Creamy and lightweight, this founadtion promises to smooth skin, and instantly hide any imperfections for a clear, fresh-faced complexion.
As far as highlighters go, the glowy-er the better right? Maybelline’s new Master Chrome Metallic Highlighter goes above and beyond to truly give you a chrome finish. This highlighter can take you from natural daytime glow to shining like a disco ball ona night out, it all depends on the type of brush you choose: a light fluffy fan brush for a subtle shimmer or a dense stippling or blush brush for way more pigment and glow. This product is a bargain at just £7.99, and threatens some of the most expensive high-end highlighters like Anastasia “So Hollywood”, Laura Geller “Guilded Honey” or Becca “Champagne Pop”. If you’re looking for your highlighter fix that can take you from day to night in an instant - Maybellines got your back!
The Sleek cream contour palette is velvety smooth, and its buildable cream formula blends like a dream. The palettes have been expertly developed to offer a combination of shades that works with all skin tones to create natural shadows and highlights, for the perfect contour. Wih six shades in each palette and three palettes to pick from, contouring has never been so easy. The product features a decently sized mirror making it perfect for travel when you need to save space in your bag. The cream products have a long-wear formula that means your contour stays put all day but if you really want to pack a punch, you can set the creams with the Sleek ‘powder contour’ or ‘face from’ kit to ensure that your makeup lasts all day long. As a great alternative to the Anastasia contour kit, at £10.99 you can say no to this bargain palette.
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'No makeup' MAKE UP LOOK bourjois healthy mix foundation Bourjois’ healthy mix foundation boosts skin’s radiance, giving you a healthy glow and even complexion for up to 16 hours.
BOURJOIS HEALTHY MIX FOUNDATION - £10
Vitamin E lip balm moisturises and protects the delicate lip area against harsh weather conditions which cause dry, chapped lips. Formulated with vitamin E, coconut and olive oils. Use as part of your skincare programme.
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Bourjois Pot Cream blushes Apply your chosen product to the apples of your cheeks, exactly where you would naturally flush, and blend until you have a very subtle colour. Add a little of the cream blush to your lips to enhance their natural pigment.
VITAMIN E LIP CARE SCRUB - £5.50
BOURJOIS LITTLE ROUND POT CREAM BLUSHES £7.99
So that makeup blends in easily’ first wash with cleanser and a cloth to gently exfoliate your face
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the fluffier, the better
elf clear brow gel Lock it all in with a clear brow gel - just be careful not to mess up all your hard work!
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ELF CLEAR BROW GEL £3
nyx micro brow pencil With shades to suit every hair colour - yes, including grey - the Precision Brow Pencil by NYX Professional Makeup has a flat tip on one end and a spoolie brush on the other for neat, defined brows.
NYX PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP PRECISION BROW PENCIL. - £9
It’is essential not to have a strong line’ if you have very light brows or patches’ blend a colour sparingly to give a little shape’
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EAT, SLEEP, LIVE, REPEAT
Everyday is a Fresh Start Words by Hannah Tinsley
We’ve all been there. It’s Sunday night, you’ve eaten every ounce of unhealthy food in the house and you’re still checking the fridge every five minutes to see if something has magically appeared. It has been a thoroughly hectic week and you just couldn’t resist the glutenous goodness in the cupboard. “Right”, you’ll say, “tomorrow is my fresh start”. And you’ll live up to you words. The following day, you’ll drink more water and have a salad. You’ll head straight to the gym after work and burn off more calories than you’ve eaten that very day. You’ll collapse into bed; hungry and lethargic, dreading the next day when you have to do it all again. Once Wednesday rolls around, you’re fed up, tired and super hungry. The salad in the fridge has gone soggy, so you opt for a sandwich on your way to work. Someone in the office brought in biscuits and you grab two to go with your cup of tea, which you put an extra sugar in for a pick me up. You already feel rubbish for cheating on your diet and so, you skip the gym for a glass of wine (or two). Sound familiar? We all go through it. We make unrealistic promises to ourselves. Promises which we know we cannot possibly keep. Yet, week in, week out, we tell ourselves Monday is our fresh start. But what if everyday could be our fresh start? There would be no more waiting around for the following week. You could better yourself the very next day. As women, we put too much pressure on ourselves to appear to be those perfect women on Instagram who really have their shit together. But what if you didn’t feel that way? There’s so many things women need to realise to feel happy within themselves. But ultimately, putting too much pressure on yourself is the key to unhappiness. So, how do we encourage ourselves, and one another, to feel genuinely happy again? Eliminate The Guilt It’s so easy to feel guilty after cheating on your diet. But there is a reason that scientists claim you should eat clean 80% of the time. It’s virtually impossible to eat completely clean. So give in to your cravings every once in a while: you won’t regret it. Chocolate and wine are a necessity, so don’t ban them from your healthy lifestyle. It only means your diet will crash and burn even sooner. So grab that glass of wine for after work drinks on Friday night. While your at it, dance on the tables and tell your friends you love them, we don’t do that often enough. Spend Saturday evening with one thing that will never let you down: Dairy Milk. Rather than banning your favourite treats, indulge in them, treasure them. Because they ultimately lead to our happiness, and shouldn’t we strive for our own happiness? Don’t Sweat The Small Stuff So you missed the gym. Remember that spin class you took last week? How could you forget? You could barely walk the next day, which is always a sure sign you did great. Or the meeting you aced at work? The presentation you had to do for uni but ultimately, you know you bossed it. All these victories have to be celebrated. You have to give yourself time to embrace this victory before you go on to ace another. What we’re getting at it, is that you must not stress about the little things. Try making a to do list of everything you want to get done that day. Physically ticking something off that list is way more pleasing than ticking it off in your mind. But if you don’t manage everything, you’ve always got tomorrow. Choose To Be Happy Our emotions are in our own hands. We make choices that will help (or hinder) how we feel in the long run. So, if everything is getting a little too much, take a break. Any odd jobs and to do lists will be the same tomorrow. Get your head out of the books (or your laptop) and look over everything the following day with fresh eyes. Try taking a walk to clear your head. It’ll help you meet your step count and you’ll feel so much more ready to face anything. Take on tasks in your everyday life that you will enjoy. Don’t waste your time away from work feeling unhappy. Do whatever you do in life, for yourself. Miracles do happen overnight, they give you a fresh start in the morning. So do whatever you do in those sweet, short 24 hours for you. Take this new day and make it your own; so let’s raise a glass of wine, chomp on some chocolate, and put the middle finger up to what society expects of women. To new beginnings and fresh starts.
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Just Breathe Kate Ward explores how mindfulness is the best treatment for stress and anxiety.
There is always a time in our lives when we rarely get to stop, take a breath and cleanse our minds. Deadlines, study, work or errands, whatever it is, it’s stressful. I for one waste a great deal of my time being worried and anxious about countless things, continuous thoughts that tend to resurface and race around my head at the most ‘opportune’ time, before I go to sleep. At 1 am, my worries are magnified, and there is an empty, sickening feeling at the bottom of my stomach. The hours go by, and these aggravating thoughts engulf my mind before finally, my brain has the willpower to fight them, and I can drift off to sleep. There is the saying that everything will feel better in the morning and it usually it does. Yet still, the bubble of worries in my mind is constant as it inflates and inflates throughout the day, before bursting again at night. Recently, ‘mindfulness,’ has skyrocketed into young people’s lives as a form of meditation and they have taken to it quite significantly. Jo Parkin, the chaplain at the University of Gloucestershire, has been practising meditation for the past twenty years and has observed the rise in mindfulness due to the anxieties young people are facing. “The numbers are going up because of the growing stress levels. I do genuinely think that people of your age are under some much more pressure now than when I was at your age.” Jo runs weekly secular mindfulness sessions for eight weeks every semester. Jo emphasises how social media is becoming very damaging, “with social media is that the amygdala controls when you run away or when you freeze, that same amygdala comes in to play when people are using social media.” She describes, “that waiting to see if someone is going to like your post that really messes with your neuropathways inside your head.”
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Meditation or mindfulness had never crossed my mind as a way to calm down, and I have to admit I never really understood it. Will my mind feel at peace? How will meditation benefit me when I feel stressed on a daily basis? The impact of mindfulness has even made waves within the NHS and is fast becoming the most effective cause of treatment, against some medication or therapy for people who’ve got depression. There is no denying that we’ve all had preconceived ideas about meditation, but as Jo comments, “You know people come across it in the NHS or schools, so it’s no longer that thing of ‘oh meditation is for slightly wacky people who sit in the corner going ‘om.’ They can see that it’s quite a normal, regular thing to do.” After continuous attempts of trying different things to de-stress and feel less anxious, I decided to give mindfulness a shot. It’s important to take time just to stop and detox from everyday negativity. The great thing about mindfulness is that it’s SO accessible. It can be done almost anywhere, at any time, so I had no excuse not to try it out. Universities and institutions often hold regular sessions, and there are also several apps that you can get your hands on, on mobile or tablet. After browsing my phone for the right app, I chose Headspace. Headspace provides merely guided meditation sessions for small amounts of time, from 10 to 25 minutes. This amount of time slotted well into my daily routine. I found around 2pm and mid-afternoon in my room was best. I recommend somewhere quiet, without any apparent distractions. The classic preconception of meditation is sitting on the floor, in a leg crossed position but I found sitting on a comfy chair was the best way to stay focused and to keep a straight back for good posture.
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The first thing I noticed once I began meditating was that my mind wouldn’t be entirely clear at first, even though this was frustrating I had to accept that it was okay for my mind to wander and I could embrace the surroundings and distractions around me. As the sessions went on, I felt I became increasingly aware of my breathing techniques, inhaling and exhaling at its natural pace. Breathing helped me become more at ease with my thoughts, and I found I could learn to replicate this in situations where I did feel overly stressed or anxious. Every session I built on this and listened to my breathing. With everything, it takes practice to become more confident in what you are trying to do, “If you do that regularly, that means your stress levels will very slowly start to come down,” Jo states. Even in the short space of time that I meditated, I felt I became more focused on the being in the present moment. When I did feel I stressed being present in the moment enabled me to focus on what happens then and not panic or act instinctively. Although I’m still learning the ropes of mindfulness, after few sessions I can already see the difference in my wellbeing. It won’t cure everything as Jo says, “it’s not a magic wand, it doesn’t make everything better.” If you’re feeling at all stressed or anxious, I recommended mindfulness as stepping stone for ‘a better you.’
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“Its no longer that thing of oh meditation is for slightly wacky people who sit in the corner going om, they can see that its quite a normal regular thing to do.” - Jo Parkin
Time to Detox Not only should you refresh the mind but detoxing your body is important too. Toxins from food, water and pharmaceutical drugs can make us feel tired and lack energy. Cleansing your body entirely at the start of the year can be very beneficial when detoxing Drinking spring water, cardiovascular exercise or simply eating raw vegetables and fruits can help to flush the toxins out of your system.
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INSTAGRAM, THE WORST APP
FOR YOUR MENTAL HEALTH? “It’s such a bad addiction; it’s fucked really.” And indeed, it can be tough, although the eagerness and the adrenaline with the act can help you through it. But how do you stop this obsession with Instagram? This can be just as complicated, not to mention painful. I wired over some questions and had three students Gabriella, Megan and Paige chat about their thoughts on Instagram. WORDS BY KLAUDIA MIHALOVA
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aybe you’re not as emotionally distraught as I am, but there’s something about social media and especially Instagram, that brings out the worst in me. This “addiction” means I struggle to be a casual user – if it’s not off my phone, I’ll probably be compulsively checking it every five minutes. Sometimes I stare down with no interest whatsoever, but other times my thoughts quickly turn to one of the following statements: Why hasn’t this person liked my selfie? Why don’t I look as good as that? Is everyone else really happier than me? “Whenever I take a selfie I’m always looking at girls’ photos before I take one so I can have similar makeup or have a certain style,” says Gabriella, a sociology student who has been stuck in this “Internet hole” obsessing over someone else’s acai bowl fuelled life just like me. “Seeing women like Tammy Hembrow and Kylie Jenner just makes you think how can I ever live up to that?” adds Paige. “I didn’t take a picture for months because my phone was such bad quality I was embarrassed to post.” Discussing the pros and cons of social media with Megan, who is a fine-art student has opened-up how wilful social media can be. “I get a lot of my inspiration from Instagram. From fashion, makeup to design ideas however when it comes to your image that you put out there, it becomes toxic especially to different people” she explains. “Some people can’t recognise it, and I’m lucky I can within myself, but for those that can’t it’s such a problem.” And indeed, it can be hard. So why do we dedicate so much time to Instagram? Research has suggested that social media can be incredibly damaging to the mental health of users, a study this year put Instagram as the worst of the bunch. Experts say the social media platform is associated with high levels of anxiety, depression, bullying and FOMO, or the “fear of missing out” and that’s something I can relate to.
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I have a love-hate relationship with social media. I can see the benefits, but I’m also massively aware of the pitfalls, clichés and the negative impact it has on us. As a magazine journalism student, Instagram can be very helpful in this field – giving voices and introducing the creative industries to many people. So, it’s not just something I can drop quickly. It would seem that apps like Instagram have changed the way we experience everyday life, from the way we exercise, the things we eat and the places we travel to. Perhaps, then, the advice to take away from this is that we should use everything in moderation.
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When you next find yourself mindlessly scrolling through the Instagram ‘explore’ page, bear in mind that you can never truly know the context of a photograph unless you are the person taking it. People are far less likely to document a bad day to share with the world on social media than they would a good one, but it’s important to remember that nobody is THAT perfect. Instagram can be a fun distraction from our day-to-day activities, but it is not a substitute for real life. And remember watching someone’s Instagram story isn’t the same as spending time with them. Waiting for someone to confirm your existence by liking a picture isn’t going to help you love yourself.
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Q&A Interview with a psychologist and a councillor Jasmine EL-Doori, focusing on the negative impact Instagram can have on our mental health.
You are a woman yourself and I am sure you can remember the struggles that young women go through when dealing with issues like body image, low self-esteem and peer pressure. What snippets of knowledge have you picked up along your personal journey?
JASMINE EL-DOORI BA (HONS) MPHIL MA (PSYCH) MBCAP (ACCRED) Over 15 years experience of psychotherapy practice BACP Accredited and Registered Psychotherapist / Counsellor Working with adults, adolescents and couples
I think that for girls growing up, their maternal relationship, ie, that with mother is key in terms of developing a healthy self perception and relationship with their bodies. For example, mothers with eating disorders or obsessive dieting behaviours tend to instil a very negative self image in their own daughters. Mothers who are consistently emotionally available to their children, open in terms of encouraging feeling dialogue and have positive relationships with themselves tend to raise well-balanced children. Of course, beyond the paradigm of the concrete role models that parents provide for their children, there are other, less explicit messages that are being conveyed within family frameworks. Overtly critical parental figures are more likely to produce insecure adults, riddled with self doubt. We all internalise our parental voices. So it is easy for children to be shaped by their parents’ opinions of them. Low self esteem is something that needs to be worked on in a therapeutic setting – there is no magical cure. What’s something we can do to foster self-compassion when we’re feeling down on ourselves? Self-care is really important - even on a very basic level. Some individuals really struggle with this. I would recommend psychotherapy as I have no formulaic “one size fits all” set of rules. Everyone is unique in their difficulties as are the solutions to those problems.
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To what extent do you think Instagram and social media in general, contribute to the increase in mental health disorders in young adults? Such as body dysmorphia, depression and general overly critical thinking of themselves? So, is social media breeding a generation of insecure narcissists? Difficulties in people’s relationship with themselves is perhaps highlighted in the context of social media, I’m not convinced it is causal – it simply gives a platform for something to be expressed. It would be easy for me to argue that many depressives have found comfort via mental health blogs and a mutual sharing of difficulties. Increased awareness of depression, anxiety, self-harm &eating disorders - which I have seen in my practise in the last few years, surely means more talking and greater access to therapies? So my first point is that the problem was already there.. body dysmorphia, for example, is likely to be multi stranded in terms of causality. There have always been distorted (or idealised) images of women in the media. The only different element with social media (compared to magazines, films, ads) is that it gives a voice and a platform to anyone and everyone. What concerns me is the propensity for young women to self-objectify on the internet, to sexualise themselves - as if they have nothing else to offer.
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The Indie Film’s
21st Century Dominance Independently made films are taking award ceremonies by storm; over half of nominations belong to independent studio’s and in recently we have also witnessed them claiming the trophy, but what’s causing this rise in popularity? Words by Megan Sneade
“And the Academy Award for best picture… La La Land.” The biggest mix up in the history of film awards. 2017 saw Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway accidentally proclaiming that Damien Chazelle’s jazzcentred romance, La La Land, had won Best Picture. The movie’s cast and crew made their way gracefully on stage to collect the award that critics predicted would be theirs. Ten minutes later, an aura of confusion grew around them, as the Oscars’ production team appeared and announced there had been a mistake; Barry Jenkins’ relative underdog, Moonlight, was the real winner. For the next couple of days, every media outlet broadcasted the ‘mix-up’ with their unique angle, covering everything from the Oscars’ disservice towards Moonlight to demanding an apology as the mistake overshadowed their triumph. What was often overlooked, however, was that an independent film directed by a man with just one other movie to his name, and produced by A24, a production company founded only five years prior, had beaten several studio-manufactured films to win Best Picture. In fact, six out of the nine
“As part of the LGBT community, I like watching films with characters I can relate to, they often explore a wider range of storylines” movies nominated for the category, were produced by a multitude of independent studios. That year’s Golden Globe awards also followed suit, eight of their 48
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ten nominations for Best Motion Picture were also independent films, which lead Moonlight to a second win for Best Drama, and lit the pathway for La La Land to win Best Musical or Comedy. Independent films have been relatively prominent for years, but recently it’s clear to see that their recognition in which they enjoy at award ceremonies is growing; leading them to dominate the 21st century industry. But what are these powerhouses? Independent (or indie) films are those which are produced by directors and companies outside of the ‘Big Six’, referring to Disney, Warner Brothers, Sony, 21st Century Fox, Universal and Paramount. Although many see the opposite of mainstream films to be independent, this is no longer the case. Starting in the 90’s, with Steven Soderbergh’s unique relationship tale, Sex, Lies and Videotape, independent films began to sore, leading several to mainstream success. Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction, released just four years after, quickly became iconic, several shows have since parodied its most famous scenes, such as Mia Wallace’s dancing, as well as teaching everyone what a Royale with cheese was. The 21st century, however, has witnessed independent films becoming significant competitors within the industry. What sets them apart from motion pictures produced by the Big Six is their unique characteristics when it comes to storytelling, such as focusing on plots which are often raw, emotional and are often not covered. Hayley Dean, aspiring filmmaker currently studying at York St. John spoke passionately about what makes independent films stand out to her. “As part of the LGBT community, I like watching films with characters I can
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Stills taken from Oscar-winner, Moonlight
relate to, they often explore a wider range of storylines and genres, and can often get quite deep and emotional.” Hayley went on to say “I always want to know more about a character or go more in depth with the plot, and some independently made films do that, which interests me.” These features often make the movies more memorable and intriguing to its audience, as they don’t follow the conventional film structures. I also had the pleasure of talking to Millie Bennet, a film student at the University of Gloucestershire where she told me her thoughts on why independent movies are recently taking over award ceremonies. “I think indie films are often seen as Oscar bait due to the Passion Project nature of a lot of them, rather than a money-making scheme, so as a result, they are better to watch!” Now often being referred to as ‘Passion Projects’, a term which Millie described as “A film that gives them [writers and directors] satisfaction and happiness whilst being a subject they’re really ‘passionate’ about.” So, could this be the reason why the independent sector is thriving? The increase in web culture in the past few decades has also contributed heavily to the distribution of independent films. Streaming site giants, Netflix and Amazon, have 49
given a platform to the growing millions of filmmakers, ultimately creating a new arthouse circuit. Hayley also told me her thoughts on the subject. “Streaming websites give people a chance to discover new directors or independent companies” and in a world where they are available at a touch of a finger, they are more accessible to us than ever.
“Indie films are often seen as Oscar bait due to the Passion Project nature of a lot of them, rather than a money-making scheme, so as a result, they are better to watch!” This year’s Oscars are no different to those which have followed before, with an outstanding seven out of the nine nominations for Best Picture being independent films, it’s clear the success of the sector is not slowing down. Get Out, Three Billboards outside Ebbing Missouri and Lady Bird are the favourites to win this year, but with Lady Bird obtaining a 100% score on review site, Rotten Tomatoes, could this be our winner? Let’s just hope La La Land isn’t mentioned this year. www.magazinebirdie.wixsite.com/mysite
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Are We Still The One Where Friends Becomes a Controversy By Liz Walsh
When it comes to TV shows, ‘Friends’ is one that will go down in history. I don’t think I’ve ever come across anybody that hasn’t heard of the show. Created by David Crane and Marta Kauffman, the sitcom, first aired in 1994, followed the lives of characters Ross and Monica Geller, Rachel Green, Joey Tribbiani, Chandler Bing and Phoebe Buffay living in the New York borough of Manhattan. as they go through love, friendships and drama.
The first episode, known as “The One Where Monica Gets a Roommate”, raked up 2 million views, automatically making it the 15th most watched TV show of the week, and the last ever episode, known as “The Last One”, aired in America on NBC on 6th May 2004, was watched by 52.2 million viewers. Making it the most watched entertainment telecast in 6 years, and the 4th most watched overall television series finale in US history. That said, nobody can deny the popularity of the show, and how it has gone from strength to strength, making the world fall in love with following the relationships of these 6 friends. However, it has recently started to have a completely different reaction. 1st January 2018 marks the day the beloved sit-com arrived on the UK 50
Netflix site. The UK population has been anticipating the arrival of ‘Friends’ ever since it was released on the US Netflix site back in 2015, and it has been a very long 3-year wait. The sit-com was incredibly well received by most of Netflix’s UK subscribers, but not all of them. It’s pretty safe to say, that since 1994, society has progressed an undeniable amount. There has been the legalisation of same-sex marriage, gender equality has come on leaps and bounds, and racial discrimination, although still a problem, has significantly improved. Since the release of ‘Friends’ on UK Netflix, millennials who have Netflix subscriptions and are watching for the first time, have expressed reservations about some of the storylines. Scenarios that made us laugh out-loud twenty or so years ago have left todays audiences recoiling at transphobic, homophobic, sexist and racist content. They have found a lot of the LGBT plot points have left them feeling uncomfortable- for example when Chandler (played by Matthew Perry) was paranoid about being perceived as a gay man, or when the characters made mean jokes about Chandlers crossdressing dad. In addition, Ross’s lesbian ex-wife Carol, left one tweeter shocked www.magazinebirdie.wixsite.com/mysite
“Rewatching Friends on Netflix and damn! Never realised just how annoying and homophobic Ross was with stuff life this! Did always love Carol and Susan though, should have known. - @Skaikracha.” Sexism also manages to creep in when, for one example, Rachel is in need of a nanny for her daughter Emma, but Ross, Emma’s father, is incapable of handling the fact the nanny Rachel employs is a man! Is he gay, asks Ross, stepping further into homophobia. Sexism, homophobia and no opportunity wasted (pardon the pun), to sling insults at Monica (played by Courtney Cox) about the fact she used to be overweight in high school. “Hey, some girl ate Monica!” yells Joey, whilst looking at her high school photo. Hilarious. Fourteen years after we said goodbye, for many it’s good to know Rachel and Joey et al are still there for us, and Friends is still one of people’s all-time favourite TV shows. Its Netflix release and the eyes of fresher younger generation reveals just how far society has moved on.
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Tragedy Girl So, it’s just after Februaey and Valentines and like many of us, you may be feeling emotionally drained by the constant ‘I love yous’ and ‘Together foreva’s’. If so, its the perfect time to delve into the darker side of teenage film. Cue Tragedy girls. If you are a fan of dark comedy and are interested in potentially murdering classmates and ex boyfriends, then Tragedy girls is definitely for you. Reflecting on the audience’s desire for guts ‘n gratification, we see high school students McKayla and Sadie set out to drench their home town in the blood of its unsuspecting residents. You may be thinking that their desires are rooted in some deep emotional trauma or evil plan, the reality is something much simpler and more twisted; they want followers for their blog. The teenage drama genre at this point has been done to death, pun intended, so it’s refreshing to see a film approach the tropes of the genre from a different angle. For instance, the usual idea of boy-meets-girl is gutted in a film where social norms are quite literally slaughtered. Both Brianna Hildebrand (Sadie) and Alexandra Shipp (McKayla) have appeared in Marvel films in recent years, so it’s no surprise their acting is impeccable and stunts perfectly coordinated. However, underneath the spouts of blood and terrifying jump scares, Tragedy Girls is a film about the purest love; friendship. These two girls are prepared to do anything for each other, and that’s the best kind of love, right? With a twisted ending guaranteed to shock the most enthusiastic thrill-seekers out there, this is one film that will surely make you think twice about those girls that smile at you in the hallway. If there is one thing to take from this epic story of friendships besides Mckayla’s astonishing hat collection, its, “To make an omelette you have to kill some ex boyfriends first.” So, BIRDIE readers, lock the doors and hide underneath the covers because the next 97 minutes are going to be ones to remember.
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Here at BIRDIE we are constantly talking about what we watch and read while cosied up in bed, so why not share them with you! This month we have collected four of our favourite things that we just couldn’t make it through the month without. Give March that shot of excitment with the must watch film ‘Tragedy girls’, or plan your next big break with the brand new app ‘Lucky trip’.
Black Mirror Dystopian TV show, Black Mirror, arrived on Netflix for a 4th series. It’s highly creative technology-based stories have shocked and surprised its viewers since it’s very first episode aired seven years ago, when we were greeted with the Prime Minister forced into having sex with a pig (yes that’s the standard ‘creative’ I’m talking about). Its latest series manages to maintain its high standard of creepy storytelling, compromising of six episodes. Black Mirror transports you on-board an imaginary spaceship in USS Callister, which resembles 60’s TV Show Star Trek. Its groovy decor, comedic one-liner’s and a cameo from Breaking Bad star Aaron Paul as “King of Space Battles” starts the series off with a bang, becoming one of the stand out episodes. In Hang the DJ, Black Mirror brings us inside the virtual world of a dating app, reimagining how they retrieve their data for its users. The episode is an intriguing idea, portrayed in a fun, insightful and slightly weird way. At parts, the acting turned somewhat cheesy, but the uplifting ending, which is uncommon for Black Mirror created hope within a universe that is usually depressing. Overall, Black Mirror’s 4th season is out of this world (literally, it’s in a different universe). If you enjoy quirky stories with smart storylines or even a reimagined modern-day Twilight Zone, then Black Mirror is certainly worth the watch!
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Lucky Trip My new finding of the LuckyTrip app, recommended by a friend, allows those of us who are super organised and those us who make plans 5 minutes before needing to leave the house, (me), to plan a holiday within the limits of our purses. Simply give the app the maximum you aim to spend, select an airport and if you’re slightly picky, choose the type of place you’d like to visit. Or, simply pick “Everything” and be pleasantly surprised. The choices include a range from “Adventure” to “Night Owl” and even includes “Off Grid”. A location from around the world will appear, giving you the price for a certain amount of nights and you can even swipe left on the accommodation, which gives you more options. This app is so detailed that every location comes hand in hand with accommodation and different types of entertainment found on your trips. Including clubs, bar crawls, becoming your own tour guide and even graffiti hotspots of fishes deepthroating sausages. To top it all off, the display and imagery is to an impeccable standard and makes you want to book then and there! (If only my funds supported this idea). This is the best new app I’ve downloaded and definitely will be using in the near future for an easy weekend getaway.
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Illustration by Megan Sneade
We had so much fun producing the first issue of Birdie for you, and music played a big part. Whether it was in the office designing pages or in the studio photographing our beautiful models this playlist would be on in the background, and we hope you enjoy it as much as we do.
Water Baby - Tom Misch & Loyle Carner IDGAF - Dua Lipa So Much More Than This - Grace Vanderwaal Water Under The Bridge - Adele I Miss You - Clean Bandit & Julia Michaels No Peace - Sam Smith & YEBBA Breathe - Years & Years Bellyache - Billie Eilish I Know You - Craig David & Bastille Freedom! ‘90 - George Michael Blinded By Your Grace, Pt 1 - Stormzy Little Red Corvette - Prince Television/So Far So Good - Rex Orange County Feel It Still - Portugal. The Man Purple Rain - Prince Listen to the full playlist on Spotify
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Our Thought of the Month “Let your heart love (that’s what it does best)” - @cleowade
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