1
Maggie Szu-Ying Ho HOS11344982 BA Fashion Public Relations and Communications
2
Content 5
Overview
23
Collaborations
48
Social Media
58
Primary Research
74
External Environment
98
Rober Stadler
3
4
5
Overview
About...
6
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
7
About...
8
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
“
After studying architecture and applied arts in her native Belgrade, Roksanda Ilincic came to London, where she earned her masters degree in Womenswear at Central St. Martins. She has been showing her collections on the London Fashion Week schedule since 2005, recently adding swimwear and blossom, a childrenswear line, to the ready-to-wear offering. ROKSANDA’s signature take on shape and her bold use of colour has fast become a go-to for women who are after effortless day and eveningwear, with an unmistakably modern approach to luxury fashion. ROKSANDA has a loyal VIP following, with recent appearances on the Duchess of Cambridge, Michelle Obama, Cate Blanchett, Charlize Theron, Kristen Stewart, Amy Adams and Keira Knightley. In November 2014 Roksanda Ilincic was named Businesswoman of the Year at Harper’s Bazaar UK’s Women of the Year Awards. The year before Roksanda won the Red Carpet Designer award at the British Elle Style Awards and in 2012 the Red Carpet Award at the British Fashion Awards. ROKSANDA designs are currently on display at the Women Fashion Power exhibit at the Design Museum; they have also been featured in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s exhibition Ballgowns: British Glamour since 1950. In 2008, Roksanda was invited by the Museum to participate in their Fashion in Motion series, hosting a catwalk show in their historic Raphael Gallery. Roksanda’s name can be found in the Business of Fashion 500, a global index of the people shaping the fashion industry.
”
- LONDON FASHION WEEK
9
About...
10
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
11
About...
Architect David Adjaye has referenced elements from Roksanda Ilincic’s geometric fashion designs for the interior of her flagship store in London’s Mayfair (+ slideshow). David Adjaye, who has also designed homes for Alexander McQueen, Jake Chapman and Ewan McGregor, based the design concept on the Serbian fashion designer’s use of geometry and symmetry in her garments. “I wanted it to feel like an extension of my clothing, not a regular shop,” said Ilincic. “So whether it’s the interior, or the detail on a coat in the store, it still has that architectural experience.” Walls and display plinths are made from irregularly staggered concrete slabs that create a three-dimensional pattern. The composite marble herringbone floor adds to the use of angles and lines. A neutral colour palette is punctuated with bursts of colour, while shelves and rails snake around the room. Free-standing units are made out of glossy lacquered joinery and concrete, and existing columns are wrapped in angular casing made from a rose-gold polished stainless steel. Downstairs, the VIP and office spaces are decorated with a mix of vibrant colour blocks and soft finishes, in contrast with the ground-floor shop. The walls are lined with fabric panels, each room in its own colour, including shades of yellow, beige, pink, purple and maroon. 12
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
London-based couturière Roksanda Ilincic has marked a milestone in the evolution of her namesake brand with the opening of the company’s first independent boutique, an alluring showplace designed by architect David Adjaye. Located in an Edwardian building on Mount Street in London’s Mayfair district, the shop represents a three-dimensional distillation of Ilincic’s signature aesthetic, which prizes strong, graphic flourishes, enticing color blocks, and geometric patterns. The boutique’s walls are clad in concrete slabs, stacked irregularly in a staccato rhythm, with herringbone floors made of marble composites in a range of gray tones. As a foil to the largely neutral backdrop, Adjaye created a series of sensuous display fixtures in highly polished stainless steel with a rose-gold finish, as well as plinths and freestanding units lacquered in vivid shades of pink. The tension between the rugged concrete and the symphony of reflective metals and lacquers echoes the bold yet feminine silhouettes of Ilincic’s highly coveted creations—the shop, like the clothes, is seriously seductive.
13
About...
14
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
“
Ilincic recently opened her first stand-alone store on London’s tony Mount Street. When asked how, if at all, having a boutique has changed things, Ilincic said, “The store has to offer pieces that you can’t find anywhere else. It’s nice to have a space that can carry my experiments that might not get picked up by buyers.” That is nice, but she might have to experiment a little bit more next time—there’s not much in this collection that retailers wouldn’t want on their racks.
”
-VOGUE.COM 2014
15
About...
16
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
“
“When I started my label, I wanted to make it for busy women,” she revealed to Net-A-Porter’s The Edit magazine. “I want them to feel that it’s designed by somebody who really understands them, who is really helping them to feel better. I want to make their daily life a bit easier.” And with a new collection of impeccably designed and easily wearable pieces season after season, it is Ilincic’s dresses that are her most recognisable staple. “I love dresses,” she says. “They’re a piece of clothing that you can put on and you don’t have to think about anything else. They solve all problems.”
”
- EVENING STANDARD 2015
17
About...
18
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
“
Feminine allure ‘I want the dress to appeal to a woman’s sense of femininity, but also her sense of mystery and imagination. I enjoy experimenting with shape, form and colour. Each season, I try and create new challenges for myself and that’s why I love it,’ says the willowy brunette in her lilting Serbian accent. Ilincic possesses both charm and talent. She has come a long way since she moved to London in 1999, going on to graduate from Central St Martins College of Arts and Design in 2000 with an MA in womenswear. She launched her eponymous collection in 2002 and first showed her collection at London Fashion Week in 2005, with the support of the Topshop New Generation scheme. In 2006 she was nominated for the British Fashion Council’s New Designer award – and she held her own formal catwalk show in spring/summer 2009. And, with a contingent of red-carpet stars turning to the designer for her brand of nuanced elegance, it is remarkable that they are all powerful women, who would never allow the dress to ‘wear’ them. ‘When a woman wears my clothing, I want her to feel confident and comfortable,’ says Ilincic. Collaborations and diffusion lines with Whistles and Debenhams have served to bring her architectural designs to a wider market. - GLOBAL BLUE 2014
19
”
About...
20
The Company The Flagship Store Roksanda Ilincic
“
On the board behind me you can see the inspiration for my AW15 collection. Also on the board are the artists I’m into right now . I love to start the creative process by looking at art. I am drawn to artists who love the same thing as I do. I recently came across a young Canadian artist called Lara King who creates beautiful minimal sculptures out of torn and folded paper. I find inspiration everywhere, and have a passion for colour. For one collection, I paired orange with yellow after seeing it on a crane on a building site. Building sites are inspiring because they’re full of bright primaries. I like plastic packaging and boxes and unrecycled things. My Instagram is full of it. My office is mostly white, with pops of colour, which allows me to think about colour in my work. All the furniture blends in. I have a simple white desk and white chairs. When it comes to design, I always choose looks over comfort. I am happy to sit on an uncomfortable chair all day as long as it looks beautiful.
”
-THE GUARDIAN 2015
21
22
23
Collaborations
ROKSANDA +
24
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
“
British-based designer Roksanda Ilincic has joined Aldo Rise, the shoe brand’s Fashion Week collaborations program which aims to ensure fashion designers have the ability to create and showcase the footwear they envision for their collections. Roksanda joins Preen as one of the two fashion labels Aldo will support for the spring/summer 2013 season at London Fashion Week. Collaborating Rise designers work intimately with Aldo to turn their visions into reality - whether it’s behind-the-scenes to help produce and promote their fashion show or designing the perfect set of heels to strut a runway look. The capsule collection of footwear created will be available at Aldo stores from next week.
”
-THE TELEGRAPH 2012
Keyfinding : Had small coverages in couple major fashion publications : Vogue uk, Elle Also with other publications such as G lamour, Cosmopolitan. Overall didn’t have a major success in gaining publications that aimed towards brand’s target audeince - high profile, successful business women. 25
ROKSANDA +
“
“I tried to dress women of all ages, to keep the existing Whistles customer and bring in a new one,” Ilincic told VOGUE.COM of the collection, explaining that: “It was the right partnership to come along, when Jane took over at Whistles, it was perfect, it hit the right time.” Shepherdson added: “We have known one another for a long time, since Topshop, and had been talking for a while and thought it would be a nice idea. Now, the time was right, a perfect synergy - to do justice to the designs and at the right price point. Roksanda is a dream to work with.”
”
- VOGUE UK 2009
26
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
27
ROKSANDA +
28
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
29
ROKSANDA +
“
Top designer, Roksanda Ilincic has worked her magic on a collection of darkly beautiful dresses for Whistles and Marie Claire has a sneak preview! Just in time for spring, the internationally acclaimed designer has created a series of ten dresses that will be available to buy in Whistles from March 25. From 4pm until midnight today you’ll be able to see a video of the collection, preview all the dresses and reserve your favourite via a pop-up window on Whistles’ website. However, in a Cinderella-style move, the footage will be removed at midnight and will no longer be available until the official launch of the new collection takes place at the Whistles store in St Christophers Place on the 25th March.
”
- MARIE CLAIRE 2010
30
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
Keyfinding : For this collaborations, Roksanda and Whistles uses a preview campaign video online 20 days beofore launch for a short amount of period on a Thursday 16:00 - 24:00 through Whistles official website. However with a emial interview with Whistles sales team they remember it didn’t drive as much as traffic on the website as they expected. As well as their isn’t a lot of coverages for this ‘Cinderella-style’ move.
31
ROKSANDA +
32
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
“
Designer legend Roksanda Ilincic has joined together with Sound Makers Sennheiser to create some beautiful and über stylish headphones for 2013. With a suede head band and ear cushions, these headphones have brilliant sound quality and are totally comfortable too. Available in red, pink, blue and many more, these will suit girls and guys who love their music but like their headphones to look chic too.
”
- BUNNIPUNCH.COM 2013
33
ROKSANDA +
34
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
No major coverage online or in magazine for the launch and informations about the collaborations. The collaboration got mentioned in paragraphs in VOGUE UK, Tatler along with other designers in trend reports. However this collaborations had been promoted through both Nicholas Kirkwood and Roksanda’s social media.
35
ROKSANDA +
“
Post offices and stacked parcels influenced the MDF shapes that dotted the runway for London fashion brand Roksanda’s Spring Summer 2016 show, which took place at a Grade-II listed sports hall in Marylebone The building is a popular venue for fashion presentations. Roksanda also showed in the arch-roofed space last season and British outerwear brand Hunter utilised it for its Spring Summer 2015 presentation. London-based set designer Gary Card – who designed the interior of the LN:CC store in the city – lined the runway with a maze of three-dimensional forms made from medium density fibreboard (MDF). He also laid flat pieces of the material with cut-out shapes against the walls of the space.
”
- dezeen.com 2015
36
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
37
ROKSANDA +
38
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
“
Mood board: Blue, yellow and black were the most outspoken colours in this collection that otherwise included rather more muted hues than we’re used to of Roksanda. Her talent for construction came through in the tailored pieces and dramatic bomb sleeves, her softer side showed in the layers and ruched details. Scene setting: Curved partitions, cubes and cylinders, all in beige, made up the Gary Card designed set at the Seymour Leisure Centre. Team work: No less than three collaborations marked this summer show: Tabitha Simmons created colour-block boots with curved cut-outs and laces, Smythson provided the abstract art inspired invitations and taking over Roksanda’s Instagram with her witty and goofy captions was Leandra Medine, the Man Repeller blogger.
”
- Wallpaper magazine 2015
39
ROKSANDA +
40
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
Promote through Roksanda’s Instagram post only. No coverage in any publications. It was launched in Wallpaper* Mag Handmade exhibition during Salone Del Mobile in Milan, but no coverages in Wallpaper magazine.
41
ROKSANDA +
42
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
43
ROKSANDA +
44
ALDO Whistles Sennheiser Nicholas Kirkwood Gary Card Tabitha Simmons Linck
Keyfinding : Through those collaborations, it is clear to see that the brands are very flexible and experimental on trying new ideas and working with people from different fields. With the brands , it doesn’t has to be with certain type of people or price range, it’s more about how it looks and how it feels and whether it fits within the brand or not. However the communication are not well done, it will be spending times and money from the company but not getting the public to know about those collaborations and events. With those collaborations, it can be use a s great opportunity to interact with Roksanda’s consumers.
45
46
47
Social Media
Social Media
48
Instagram Facebook Twitter Website
49
Social Media
Roksanda have taken a different approach to most brands with their instagram. Rather than seeing each square as a single post, the brand uses these individual posts to make a collage. It follows a very clear and consistent style, fitting well with the brand’s aesthetic. However, the individual posts often fail to engage consumers, looking more like abstract art pieces than images of clothing. Having followed the account over the past twelve months it’s noticeable how rarely they make posts. While their competitors may post content up to 5 times a day, Roksanda will only post once or twice a week. This is reflected in the relatively short growth in followers (45k-92.1k) when compared with that of competitor brands in the same time frame Mary Katrantzou has went from 239K - 330K.
50
Instagram Facebook Twitter Website
51
Social Media
52
Instagram Facebook Twitter Website
53
Social Media
Very poorly operate and no engagement with consumers. The frequency of posting on Facebook and Twitter are every other 4-5 days a post. 54
Instagram Facebook Twitter Website
Roksanda launched her official website in April 2016. The main page are done in a minimalistic way with design that fits well with her instagram page. However going into the website, it’s not “friendly-browsing”, the atmosphere of the website is too distance, with too less informations. It’s difficult to get a grasp of what this brand represent.
55
56
57
Primary Research
Primary Research
58
Shop Visit Stockist VIsit Costumer Profile
Mount Street Flagship Store Collaborating with David Adjaye. However visiting inside the shop for three times, and sitting across from the flagship store observing customers for a afternoon on a Friday in Febuary, a saturday and sunday in March. On an average no more than 5 cutomers walked in for the whole afternoon. And only seen two people walking out with Roksanda bags on the way out. Interview with Roksanda Flagship Store Sales Assistant: Q: On a good day for sales, how many people would come in and make a purchase? A: Well, it really depends on the season and on the period during the year. It will normally be quite busy when it’s during sales, or right after the show and it will be quite quiet at the end of season while we are waiting for the new collection to comes out. So it really depends. But for us we don’t really count it as how many people coming in and make purchase, we can have one client coming in and buy quite a lot at once in one day. Or have five customers coming in buy not purchasing anything. Q: I’ve been staying across the store in the cafe for a few times on a Friday and weekends and didn’t really see a lot of people coming in, the most I see was a friday afternoon with 5 customer going in total, so is that a day with more people visiting the store? A: Well, actually in the area on a weekend is very quiet, and most of our client tend to go away in the weekends anyway. So it’s actually during the weekday we got more people coming in. But again it really depends we can have 3 customers coming in for a day and they all purchase quite a lot, or we can have 10 customers coming in but only one of them bought a bracelet. Q: When you say loyal clients, how often do they purchase? A: Very often, every season they would come in
59
Primary Research
Q: And what are those clients age? A: Well, it’s actually quite a mix of age we can have a 20 years old coming in for a dress for a wedding, or we got 30-40 years old buying for daily outfit. So it’s actually a mix from 20 - 40 ish maybe even 50. Q: Can you categorize those customers as certain type? A: No, not really. They are a mix. Q: So you wouldn’t say that the target customers are majorly from working woman from design back ground? A: No, I wouldn’t. A lot of them are actually moms or stay home wife. We got young girls as well like in their twenties, but a lot of our loyal clients lives in this area and comes in on a weekday.
60
Shop Visit Stockist VIsit Costumer Profile
61
Primary Research
62
Store Visit Stockist Visit Costumer Profile
Roksanda has her collection stocks in following department store in UK : Selfridges
Harrods
Harvey Nichols
Browns
Liberty
Matches Fashion
Net-A-Porter
LN-CC
Roksanda had a pop up store in Selfridges last year in August for ten days. And now it back to just 2-3 racks in the Women’s fashion area along with Mary katrantzou, Alexander Wang...etc. Sales assistant in the area stated that not many people purchase Roksanda from them, they would be working five days a week and haven’t had any one purchase an item from Roksanda. With the variety of brands and stype in Selfridges people wouldn’t come in just for Roksanda and as the sizes and styles aren’t as available as the flagship store, people who do came into selfridges to look for Roksanda often couldn’t find what they want on the rack. On the other hand with Harrods, the Roksanda pop up store started in September last year and turns into a permanant store in the department store. In Roksanda Harrod’s store they have more items availabe compares to all other stockists in UK, but still with total no more than 25 peieces. Please find the transcript of interview with Roksanda Harrod’s store sale assistant on the next page.
63
Primary Research
Q: Since the pop up store started back in September, are there more purchase or people browsing in the Roksanda section? A: Yeah, Definitely. Because we are in a mixture in lady’s fashion section with Stella McCartney and other brands. Can’t really count how many people browsing Roksanda. But with purchasing it definitely gone up. And the amount of people asking to try the dresses has increase quite significantly. Q: On a good day, how many people would make a purchase? A: On a really good day it would be 4-6 purchases through out the day. Q: Are there a lot of return customers? A: Not a lot, I recognize few numbers of customers now and then but majority of them I would say aren’t regular buyers. Q: What is the age ranges of people who purchases Roksanda? A: It’s a very wide range, from 20 - 50. Q: And are they a certain type? Or it’s all different kind of people? A: It’s all different kind of people that comes in. Q: So it’s not like stylish business women, or women that are in design, fashion backgrounds? A: Well, yeah there are people that comes in for work outfits but some comes in for occasions. A majority of them loves the dress, those one piece dress from Roksanda. But not necessarily from design or fashion background. Q: Compares to other brands in the shopping section in Harrods would you consider Roksanda a popular brand? A: Hmm, not really compares to Stella McCartney - She is the most popular brand in this sections. I would say we are more likely be about the same as Alexander Wang, we make about the same sales. But with luxury fashion brands, that cost up to £5000 a peice, Roksanda is doing okay.
64
Store Visit Stockist Visit Costumer Profile
65
Primary Research
66
Store Visit Stockist Visit Customer Profile
Roksanda Consumer Survey Samples taken: 35 1. How do you know about Roksanda Ilincic? a. magazine/news paper b. social media c. Museum events / exhibitions d. Collaborations e. Walked pass mount street flagship store f. Deparment stores
74.83% 35.11% 0.00% 0.80% 8.04% 16.09%
2. Do you know any collaboration Roksanda Ilincic did with any brands/organisation? Only one consumer remembered Roksanda did a collaboration with Debenhams. 3. How often do you purchase the brand’s product? a. Monthly b. seasonly c. Annually d. Other (Please specify)
Occasionally / Never
0.00% 0.00% 0.00% 100.00%
7 People Occasionally , 5 people never purchased the Brand
4. What have you purchased from the brand? a. womenswear b. childrenswear c. swimwear d. accessories e. Shoes f. Roksanda x Whistles g. Roskanda x Debenhams h. others (Please specify)
66.67% 21.30% 0.00% 0.00% 33.33% 0.00% 0.00% 0.00%
5. What other brands do you also shop with? a. Marni b. Acne c. Victoria Beckham d. Jenny Packham e. Mary katrantzou f. Celline g. Alexander Mcqueen h. Vivienne Westwood i. Other
42.80% 28.37% 0.00% 2.33% 0.00% 23.95% 33.75% 38.95% COS, & Other Stories, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs Mason Martin Margiela, Jonathan Saunders
67
Primary Research
6. Do you consider yourself a loyal costumer to the brand? a. Yes b. No
80.66% 19.34%
7. What do you think it’s unique about the brand? a. Style b. Brand images c. Ethical Values e. other
100.00% 83.00% 0.00% 16.67%% 1. She has incredible and unique taste to create feminine clothes, but not at the same way as the other designers. 2. bright colours, wonderful fabrics, and unusual shapes
8. Describe the brand Roksanda Ilincic in three words Colourful, quirky, unqiue, bold, Feminine, incredible, modern, structured, architecture 9. Do you follow the brand on any social media platform? a. Facebook b. Twitter c. Instagram d. Pinterest e. Other
50.00% 75.00% 100.00% 0.00% 0.00%
10. If Roksanda held a event for customers. E.g private viewing for new collections Will you like to attend the event? a. Yes b. No
100.00% 0.00%
11. If Roksanda send out newsletter to costumers email for new informations, will you like to sign up for it? a. Yes b. No
83.33% 16.67%
12. What’s your annual income and occupations? £18000 - £25000 £25000 - £35000 £35000 - £45000 £45000 and up
16.67% 33.33% 33.33% 16.67%
68
Store Visit Stockist Visit Customer Profile
From this survey there are few points that can be conclude from the research. 1. The press coverages, and articles about Roksanda helps attracted audiences, as social media isn’t the main channel to attrack audiences. Also reflects later on my secondary research, that the brand’s social media performance is weak. 2. Roksanda doesn’t do enought promotions for their collaborations. e.g Press day, Press releases, Events. The fact that she done numerous collaborations with various brands, only one consumer “kind of” recall the brands collaboration with Debenham. 3. People mainly buys into Roksanda’s womenswear collection. 4. Out of all social media platforms, the brand’s Instagram got the best performance and all brand’s audiences followed it’s instagram. Also reflects on brands social media research, out of all platforms, it’s instagram got way more followers than others. 5. Majority of the consumers consider themselves as “Loyal” to the brands. Not nessassarily puchasing into the brand regularly, but follows the brand’s news and events. 6. The brand image consumers are percieving is strong and consistant. 7. The consumer are generally creative base. 8. The consumers like to attend brand’s event and receiving newsletters.
69
Primary Research
With this survey, it back up my opinions about Roksanda is not as well known as other brands in the same sector. I did some research before creating this survey, every brand as a choice in the survey are selected because they are the same price range as Roksanda. With brand like Mary katrantzou that is a younger brand than Roksanda, but having higher percentage of public recognition. After having evidence of Roksanda’s weak brand awareness. I decide to look into what is the brand’s action, what is it that other brands are doing that Roksanda didn’t. How conusmers who is aware of Roksanda came across with the brand? Is it from social media? Press coverage? Walking pass it’s flagship store? Or through exhibitions in V&A / Design museum?
70
Store Visit Stockist Visit Customer Profile
Fashion Brand Awareness Survey Samples taken: 33 1. Do you know any of the following brands? a. Victoria Beckham b. Marni c. Acne Studios d. Celine e. Roksanda Ilincic f. Nicolas Kirkwood g. Jenny Packham h. Mary katrantzou i. None Above
86.96% 69.57% 86.96% 100.00% 13.04% 26.09% 56.52% 30.43% 0.00%
2. Do you buy from any following brands? a. Victoria Beckham 20.00% b. Marni 40.00% c. Acne Studios 80.00% 73.33% d. Celine 0.00% e. Roksanda Ilincic 13.33% f. Nicolas Kirkwood 6.67% g. Jenny Packham 0.00% h. Mary katrantzou i. others: Marc by Marc Jacobs, high street brands 3. Despite budget, which of the following brands suits your personal taste? a. Victoria Beckham b. Marni c. Acne Studios d. Celine e. Roksanda Ilincic f. Nicolas Kirkwood g. Jenny Packham h. Mary katrantzou i. None Above
17.39% 39.13% 69.57% 65.22% 13.04% 17.39% 13.04% 4.35% 8.70%
4. Age Range: 18 and Under 19 - 25 25 - 30 30 - 35 35 - 40 40 - 45 50 - 55 55 - 60 Above 60
0.00% 8.70% 39.13% 47.83% 2.15% 1.40% 0.00% 0.80% 0.00%
71
72
73
External Evironment
External Environment
74
Competitors Trends
“
Mary Katrantzou X Wallpaper* Handmade
Mary Katrantzou was commissioned to create a one off piece for ‘Salone del Mobile’. The Bespoke dress was showcased at the event and subsequently featured in the August 2011 ‘Handmade Issue’ of Wallpaper* magazine. Entitled the ‘Neo’ dress, it was inspired by the interiors of London’s Neo bankside. Mary digitally manipulated the images and printed them onto neoprene laminated silk panels and laser cut before construction. - MaryKatrantzou.com 2011
”
75
External Environment
“
Jonathan Saunder & The Rug Company
In 2014, Jonathan Saunders transformed his passion for architecture and interior design into a collection for artisan British retailers The Rug Company. Comprising four different designs, each referencing a different period of interior history, the range took Saunders’ understanding of clashing prints and seemingly incongruous patterns and transformed them into brilliantly desirable carpets. Inspired by Charlotte Perriand’s interiors, William Morris textiles and Japanese kimono designs, each carpet is infused with subtle allusions to design classics; whether the surreal tones of Paul Outerbridge’s early photography transformed into a sinuous Art Nouveau print or a silkscreen check rug evocative of Perriand’s wallpaper prints. They are pieces steeped in design history that showcase Saunders’ nuanced understanding of aesthetic harmony, and transform vintage references into thoroughly contemporary, hand-knotted innovation. - Jonathansaunders.com 2014
”
76
Competitors Trends
77
External Environment
“
Iittala X Issey Miyake
Founded by Hiroshima-born fashion designer Issey Miyake in 1970, the Issey Miyake brand and studio is driven by innovative thinking, constant research and development, and new technology-based interpretations of traditional clothing techniques. Renowned for its Pleats Please collections, the Tokyo-based company also produces perfumes, watches and lighting. ‘The simple, minimal design language of Iittala and Issey Miyake complement each other perfectly,’ says Harri Koskinen, Iittala’s design director. ‘The textile items are created using not only the latest technology to fold and pleat the material, but also some very delicate handwork,’ adds Midori Kitamura, president of Miyake Design Studio. Two geographically disparate brands united by a philosophy of timeless design and creative thinking, Finland’s Iittala and Japan’s Issey Miyake share a similar aesthetic and a respect for tradition, functionality and craftsmanship. Now the use of pioneering methods and new materials in the brands’ respective work has been fully crystallized into a new collaboration, the Iittala X Issey Miyake collection of innovative and elegant homeware. The Iittala X Issey Miyake range of textiles, ceramics and glass invites you to celebrate the rituals of domestic life by setting a gentle mood thanks to its subtle colours, tactile textiles and delicate shapes. Comprising bags, tabletop accessories and cushion covers, the 30-piece range’s tonal scheme is inspired by Japanese spring blossoms, while its textile products (including napkins and placemats) are based on the ingenious pleating techniques that have been a technical leitmotif of Issey Miyake’s clothing since the late 1980s. Having started life as a small glass factory in southern Finland, Iittala has evolved into a leading manufacturer of essential objects designed to enrich people’s everyday lives and to last a lifetime. Now part of the Fiskars Group, it boasts an august heritage that includes classics such as Alvar Aalto’s iconic vase collection from 1936, the ‘Teema’ tableware by Kaj Franck from 1952, and the handcrafted Birds glass ornaments by Oiva Toikka.
”
- Wallpaper Magazine 2016
78
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
79
External Environment
Keyfinding : A lot of luxury fashion houses are attend or take parts in Salone Del Mobile. Loewe, Armani Casa, Bottega Veneta Home, Bulgari, Hermes, Fendi Casa, Marni, Missoni. Collaborating across different design field is now a trend, that Fashion isn’t just about clothing anymore, it can impact and influence in a broader way.
80
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
“
Each year, when the design world makes its annual pilgrimage to Milan for the Salone del Mobile, the city’s fashion brands are ready and waiting to greet them with open arms. As well as the debut of annual home collections from the likes of Hermès and Fendi, Salone’s roster of fashion-themed events includes everything from immersive installations to exclusive designer collaborations that give luxury labels the chance to showcase the technical capabilities of their artisans. Last week we swept the city to seek out the fashion brands who are grabbing a generous slice of the Salone pie.
”
- Wallpaper Magazine 2016
81
External Environment
82
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
“
Raf Simons is certainly not your typical fashion designer. With a background in industrial design, a keen collector of 20th century furniture and ceramics, and a creative range that straddles haute couture for Christian Dior and his eponymous menswear line, Simons comes well-furnished to enter into a new interior textile partnership with Danish company Kvadrat, launching tonight in London - and featured in our March issue (W*180), with an exclusive interview by Alice Rawsthorn. The idea for the tactile pairing first came to light when Simons was researching his A/W 2011 collection for Jil Sander. At the time the designer found his usual suppliers at a loss for the heavier weight fabrics, more reminiscent of upholstery textiles that he was seeking. ‘I fell in love with those fabrics: the quality, the density, the colouration,’ Simons recalls of his first Kvadrat encounter. ‘At some point Kvadrat contacted me through Peter Saville, who I’ve known since way back and who works for them as an art director. We talked about the idea of my doing a kind of capsule collection. Bingo! I loved the idea.’ Flash forward to Simons’ most recent menswear collection, shown last month in Paris, where the fashion world got a preview of his upcoming Kvadrat partnership. The A/W 2014 show, for which the designer collaborated with friend/American artist Sterling Ruby, featured a collaged coterie of overcoats - some showcasing striped patches of 70-plus variations of his flecked Kvadrat textiles. The official unveiling of this first Kvadrat/Raf Simons collection will include both upholstery fabrics - which the designer describes as ‘blank canvases’ - and a select few finished products, from luxurious wool and cashmere ‘Tronic’ throws, to glossy mohair ‘Pixie’ blankets in saturated hues of royal blue, rich garden green and rose pink. ‘The big question for me when designing for Kvadrat is: “Will I want to live with this for the next ten years?”’ says Simons. ‘People think more deeply about the things they live with in their homes. We want ours to last, so we didn’t go wild, wild, wild. And we didn’t want them to be too disconnected from what Kvadrat does already.’ - Wallpaper Magazine 2016
83
External Environment
Raf Simons Instagram 2016
84
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
“
Danish textile design company Kvadrat once again calls upon the talents of Belgian designer Raf Simons to assist in designing a collection of textiles for the ongoing Spring/Summer 2014 season. Shown at this year’s Milan Design Week, the two unveiled a series of diverse textiles designed to both stand alone and complement one another. Eleven core textile designs were chosen for use in a wide range of interiors, mixing and matching various weaves and textures. To show off the pieces, the two outfitted both classic and contemporary pieces of furniture in the textiles.
”
- highsnobiety.com 2014
85
External Environment
Coverages Wallpaper* Magazine Telegraph AnOther Magazine Vogue Australia Dezeen Magazine Business Of Fashion Available in UK Selfridges Skadium *Availabe in various stores and websites globally
Collection Range Textile Cushion Throws Upholstery Furniture: Armchair, Sofa All furniture item are made to order Pick from available style with Raf Simons X Kvadrat textiles
86
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
87
External Environment
88
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
Raf Simons X Kvadrat Official website The brands set up a official website just for this collborations with desinger background informations, collection inpirations, product shots, stockists informations
89
External Environment
90
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
“
COS heads of design Karin Gustafsson and Martin Andersson have again picked the items from Hay’s range to be sold in three of the fashion brand’s stores. “We were very pleased with the reaction from our customers on the collaboration with Hay, we have always admired what Hay do and share many of its values,” said Andersson. “We like to describe it as Hay seen through the eyes of COS.”
”
- dezeen.com 2016
91
External Environment
92
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
COS Stores Instagram 2016
93
External Environment
Coverages Dezeen Magazine House and Garden Red Online
Available in Europe COS Store High Street Kensington, London COS Store Neubaugasse, Vienna COS Store Lilla Nygatan, Gothenburg COS Store online Collection Range Stationaries Furniture Daily Essentials Tools
94
Competitors & Trends Raf Simons X Kvadrat COS X HAY
95
96
97
Robert Stadler
98
Robert Stadler
In 1992 he co-founded the RADI Designers collective, whose varied practice revolved around the marriage of the everyday and the unusual. Stadler began to work on solo projects from 2002, though he continued to collaborate with RADI until the studio’s dissolution in 2008. Stadler’s interests encompass both what he terms “aristocratic design”; conceived by serious designers, manufactured by elegant companies, and objects typically deemed or vulgar or absurd by connoisseurs of the former. To Stadler, beauty and merit can be found in each alike. He began exploring the imaginative possibilities of things to bridge the apparently incompatible. Rather than choosing a side, Stadler inhabits the debatable land between preciousness and lowliness, elegance and gaucheness, the serious and the ludicrous. As he says: “I enjoy revealing the strange sides to an object and making people love them. We easily reject the bizarre as it seems established that functional objects should be simple, self-explanatory, attractive etc. So I try to add a different dimension to my works, but without neglecting these rational parameters.” This was, and remains, a crucial force behind his work. The myriad strands of his practice reveal this motivation, encompassing furniture, product and interaction design, art installation and multi-media intervention. In time, this ambition has formally manifested itself more and more clearly. Common to the majority of Stadler’s oeuvre is a questioning of objects’ established identities. Frequently, his furniture works at once convey and destroy pre-conceived notions of what an object should be. Such evocation of dissolution, in tandem with the physical reality of functional furniture, introduces an element of chaos to the medium. Although works such as his Possible Furniture series may at times appear haphazard, they are in fact perfectly constructed to fulfill their ergonomic purpose. Stadler’s ambition when producing a new work is that its artistic dimension doesn’t reduce its design credibility and vice-versa. - Carpenter Workshop Gallery 2016
99
Robert Stadler intervenes in very diverse fields, obliterating all hierarchies between free proposals, industrial and public commissions. He explores the exhibition space in order to scramble the usual categories of art and design. He questions the status of the object as a work of art or a product as well as the border between preciousness and lowliness, elegance and vulgarity, the serious and the absurd. Questioning the object’s identity or even provoking their dissolution, are fields of interest crossing most of his projects. His work is present in several private and public collections such as Fondation Cartier, FNAC (Fonds national d'art contemporain), FRAC (Fonds régional d'art contemporain) Nord-Pas de Calais. He is represented by Carpenters Workshop Gallery and Galerie TripleV. He works for clients such as the Académie des César, Beaumarly, Dior, Hermès, Nissan, Orange, Ricard et Thonet. - Wikipedia.com2016
Keyfinding : Robert Stadler has been featured in Dezeen Magazine, Wallpaper, Numero Magazine, and numbers of other art based publications. His diversitye fits with Roksanda free and experimental collaborations in the past. Use of Colour, and styles also coherent with the Roksanda’s collection aesthetics.
100
Robert Stadler
101
102
103
104