LiFO Athens Guide for Visitors

Athens guide for visitors 2012

one company one idea good for all

Welcome If you thought of Athens as just a necessary evil of your trip on the way to the islands, it’s time you changed your mind. The modern city offers an amazing variety of activities and places of interest to keep you happy and busy while you’re waiting for the boat.

Admittedly, concrete-loving Athens is not the prettiest of cities, but within the urban landscape you’ll find oases of old-style neighbourhoods and small parks, ancient sites and museums packed with some of the most impressive artefacts in the world. Add to that the excellent weather, yummy food, vivid nightlife and the open, leisured lifestyle for which Greeks are famous and you have an irresistible mix. Athens is blessed with a long coastline dotted with clear blue beaches just a bus ride away from its centre, making it a starting point for swimmers cautiously taking their first dips of the summer season.

The capital of Greece is like a public experiment: It’s always changing and reinventing itself. Constructions, renovations and excavations are a daily feature, giving you the opportunity to watch the city changing before your eyes, while filling your shoes with dust.

The present financial crisis has undoubtedly dampened the city’s usual high spirits as the country struggles to put its finances in order by cutting government spending, opening up the economy and restructuring the bureaucratic public sector, while faced with a whopping 350-billion-euro debt. The Greek parliament approved in March a new three-year austerity plan as a prerequisite for a second bailout package from the European Union, the European Central Bank and the International Monetary Fund. At the time of writing, national elections were called for May 6th and most ordinary Greeks estimate the two main parties – which formed a coalition government five months ago to pass through parliament austerity legislation – will not gain the necessary majority to form a government, at least in the first round of elections.

With austerity biting hard on people’s dwindling wages, protests and strikes have become part of everyday life, so you may witness some form of protest during your stay in Athens or a frustrating strike in state-run museums and sites.

Having said this, the city will not disappoint you. Athens has experienced major facelifts over the past decade, most of which took place in view of the Athens 2004 Olympics. The basic public transport and road infrastructure has seriously improved, with the new airport and Metro providing a much-needed upgrade of services and faster commuting. If you’re staying in the city centre, you will find that most sites, museums and other places of interest are within walking distance from each other, and the Metro will effectively get you anywhere you want to go. All the same, traffic chaos and pollution remains an issue, as Greeks love to get behind the wheel even for the shortest of distances.

One of the most impressive changes over the last few years has been the integration of the ancient and the modern parts of town. A pedestrian walkway created to connect the most significant archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis Hill has united them with the 19th-century neoclassical houses, new restaurants and cafés, and everyday lives of its roughly four million inhabitants.

There is no doubt that Athens is at its best in summer, when daily activities move out into the open air, with cafés, restaurants and bars serving customers in gardens, courtyards and even on pavements, letting you enjoy the balmy weather and moonlit sky.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

1

Contents Publisher

Stathis Tsagarousianos

Editor in Chief Michalis Michael

Articles Editor

Daphne Papadopoulou

Creative Director

Coordination

Markella Andrikaki Xenia Stasinopoulou

Text Correction Vasso Belia

Sales

Demetra Passomenou Ismini Vourdaha

Stathis Mitropoulos

Designers

Rinetta Koskinidou Kostas Stanellos

Illustrations Dreyk The Pirate

Photographers Spyros Staveris Nikos Katsaros Freddie F. Stathis Mamalakis

2

In tune with the city

Produced by DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st.

Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr

05-14

45-52

All the major cultural highlights of the season.

And a day-to-day plan for the perfect budget weekend in Athens!

Some of the most beautiful summer spots in Greece are just an hour away from the town centre. This is a clever guide for visiting Hydra, Poros, Aegina, Nafplion and Marathon Lake.

In Tune with the City

15-38

Must-sees

What to see while on holiday in Athens. The museums, the Acropolis and all the important spots to visit.

39-44

The Great Outdoors

Athens is not just the Acropolis. A guide for al fresco walks and visits to the seaside.

Escapes

53-85

The Good Life

All the good restaurants for different budgets, some bars for cocktails and fun, everything for the perfect shopping spree, and information on how to act like a Greek while you’re there.

86-96

Useful Information

Important phone numbers, maps, hotels etc.

GREEK ORGANIZATION OF FOOTBALL PROGNOSTICS (OPAP S.A.) is the leader gaming operator in Greece, exclusively conducting, managing, organizing and operating numerical lottery and sports betting games in Greece and Cyprus, through an extensive network, currently comprised of more than 5,000 licensed agencies.

OPAP was founded in 1958 in order to organize and operate PROPO (the Greek Football Pools game). In 1999, the company was incorporated as a Societé Anonyme with the Hellenic Republic as the sole stakeholder. In 2000, OPAP acquired from the State a 20-year license to be the exclusive operator of lottery and sports betting games. In 2001, the company was listed in the Athens Stock Exchange (ATHEX) with the Hellenic Republic, following consecutive offerings, currently OPAP S.A. is maintaining 34% of the company’s considered to be one of shares. the leading Companies in the

global gaming sector. In 2011, the Group‘s revenues reached €4.36bn while net profit stood at €537.5m. Prize payouts to lottery and betting winners reached As an active €2.94bn, whereas taxes of €285m were paid member of international to the Greek state. The distribution of a organizations and associations total dividend of €229.7m is subject of games of chance (World to approval by the Shareholders’ Lotteries Association, European Annual General Meeting.

Focusing Lotteries, European Lotteries Sports, to its key principal, European Association for the Study OPAP continuously supports of Gambling), OPAP maintains an extended Corporate a dynamic stance in the Social Responsibility Program The company international developments through which contributes in applies an Integrated of the gaming sector. the fields of sports, culture, Management System which healthcare, education and addresses environment.

• Quality (ISO 9001:2009), • Environment Management (ISO 14001:2004) and • Responsible Care (SA 8000:2008)

In tune with the city

Sean Scully: Doric Order In his first and much awaited exhibition in Greece, the 65-year-old, Dublin-born artist Sean Scully is exhibiting his six monumental Doric paintings which the artist has been making since 2009. Scully is a minimalist painter, known for his monumental, abstract paintings which bear an architectural quality. Scully began his career as a figurative artist but his career took a defining shift in direction following his exposure to the innovative work of Russian-American abstract painter Mark Rothko. He experiments with stripes and geometric forms in his work through the use of various materials such as oil, pastel, and watercolour. Scully’s work affects the viewer not just with their theme and block colours, but also with their sheer scale, making them feel both enveloped and riveted by it.

The Doric paintings, with their panels of thick brushstrokes and grey hues refer to the austere Doric principle applied in ancient Greek architecture, with the stripes resembling the columns of Greek temples. The originality in this event is that the paintings will be exhibited in the location which inspired them – Athens.

The exhibition’s curator Sally Radic will also include prints, watercolours, and paintings from various periods of his thirty year career. These works will explore other areas of Scully's practice as well as show how the earlier work is a precursor for this new body of work. Sean Scully has twice been named a Turner Prize nominee and Scully’s work is held by numerous public collections around the world including The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, MOMA, The Tate, and the Museo Nacional Reina Sofia Madrid.

6

In tune with the city

Benaki Museum 138 Pireos Avenue Annexe, Wed, Thu, Sun 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Fri, Sat 10 a.m.-10 p.m. www.benaki.gr Metro: Keramikos “Sean Scully: Doric Order”, May 9 - July 15, 2012.

Music

Dandy Warhols

The Rockwave festival Every summer, thousands of people swarm into the city’s open-air venues to attend rock and dance music gigs by their favourite international acts, as well as local Greek bands that start their country-wide summer tours in Athens. The main rock music festival is Rockwave, hosted in rural Malakasa, about 40 kilometres outside Athens. The large TerraVibe open-air arena opened in 1996 and has since gone from strength to strength, featuring artists such as Cure, Placebo, Starsailor, Muse, Oasis, Franz Ferdinand and many more. This year, starting on June 30, Terra Vibe welcomes The Locos, a wacky Spanish ska punk band determined to make everyone jump up and down. Head bangers will fill Terra Vibe on July 1, when the legendary Ozzy Osbourne will join the stage with his friends. He will be followed by Machine Head, Paradise Lost, Unisonic, Planet of Zeus and Lucky Funeral.On July 2, the hills of Malakasa will echo the sounds of electric guitars and synthesizers of The Prodigy, who are celebrating 20 years since the release of their first album Experience. Following their high energy show will be rock icon Iggy Pop, who, together with his band the Stooges, has become a regular of any rock festival in Athens. The concert will end with Everlast, the former leader of band House of Pain. More information can be found on the organisers’ website (www.didimusic.gr). Bring a long-sleeved shirt 8

In tune with the city

Morrissey

along because it can get breezy at night.

Note: Details and events may change, so make sure you check the festival’s website (www.rockwavefestival.gr) before arranging your trip to Malakasa.

To buy tickets: -Online at www.ticketpro.gr -Ticket House box office (42 Panepistimiou Street, 2103608366): Mon & Wed 10.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m., Tue, Thu, Fri 10.30 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat 10.30 a.m.-4 p.m.

Morrissey in town On July 16th, the former lead singer of the Smiths returns to Athens for a much awaited concert at the open-air Theatre of Lycavittos. The concert forms part of his 2012 world tour which will be taking Morrissey from Jakarta to Tel Aviv and Manchester. The singer’s latest album, Years of Refusal, released in 2010, has been largely described as his best album in years. It won acclaim for its vitality, back-to-basics rock approach and Morrissey’s usual sharp lyrics.

Morrissey, known for throwing exhaustingly energetic live shows, has always been an amazingly successful touring artist, both because of his sophisticated music as well as his unique personality. The show is expected to sell out fast, so hurry.

Iggy Pop

The Prodigy Tickets: €35 from Public (Syntagma Square), Tickethouse (42 Panepistimiou Street, inside the arcade, Hours: Mon & Wed 1030-1830, Tue, Thu, Fri 1030-2100, Sat 1030-1600), www.ticketarena.gr

More top summer concerts Apart from Rockwave, there are plenty more amazing line-ups for the summer. On July 12, rock-pop band Dandy Warhols will present their new album “This Machine” at the Theatre of Lycavittos (see Lycavittos Hill on the Great Outdoors section for access). Tickets are available at Metropolis music store, Public bookstores and Tickethouse (see below).The historic rock band Lynyrd Skynyrd will play on June 18 at the Baseball stadium at Ellinikon (Posidonos Avenue, Elliniko). To buy tickets for the event (40 Euros) visit www.livetickets.gr.

Thrashers will be excited to know that the huge metal group Megadeath will hit the stage of Entertainment (7-13 Iera Odos Street, Athens) on June 20. Tickets cost 35 Euros and can be purchased from www.ticketarena. gr, and Public bookstores (on Syntagma Square, next to Mc Donalds). The annual Ejekt Festival, held on June 27, finally brings the beloved British rock band Kasabian to Athens, together with the Norwegian poprock band Katzenjamer. Crowds will once again gather for the British electronic band James, who will play for the umpteenth time in Athens, followed by Miles Kane,

Red Hot Chilli Peppers

co-founder of the Last Shadow Puppets. The line-up is completed with Band of Sculls. The festival will be held at Nerou Square, Olympiacos Polos Falirou, at Faliro (Tram: Delta Falirou). Tickets can be purchased for 38 or 40 Euros from www.ticketarena.gr, Public bookstore and Tickethouse (see below). Remember Dead Can Dance? Brendan Perry and Lisa Gerrard join forces once again to present their new album on a world tour.

They will be performing in Athens on September 23, at the Theatre of Lycavittos (see Lycavittos Hill section for access). Last but not least, Red Hot Chilli Peppers are expected to rock people’s heads off for their first live in Greece on September 4. The concert will be held at OAKAs’ closed basketball stadium (37 Kifissias Avenue, Marousi 210-6834060, www.oaka.com.gr). Ticket prices range from 35 to 75 Euros and are available online at www.ticketpro.gr and www.tickethouse.gr, as well as at Tickethouse’s booth (42 Panepistimiou Street, inside the arcade, 210-3608366, hours: Mon-Fri 10.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m., Sat 10.30 a.m.-4.00 a.m.).

Addresses for buying tickets: -Ticket House (42 Panepistimiou Street, inside the arcade, 210-3608366, hours: Mon-Fri 10.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m., Sat 10.30 a.m.-4.00 p.m.), or online at www.ticketpro.gr.

-Metropolis music store (54 Panepistimiou Street, Omonia, 210-3830179). To get to the theatre: Bus 732 and 054 from Akadimias Street will take you to the bottom of the hill.

-Public bookstore: Right on Syntagma Square, next to Everest snack chain.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

9

a unique set of installations, sculptures, idols, stencil graffiti (resembling a contemporary frieze) and masks of famous ancient Greek monsters.

10

In tune with the city

Beware of Greeks bearing awards Monsters are scary, especially the ones of the ancient Greek mythology, which were one-eyed, had snakes for hair, or looked like wicked crones. Beetroot Design Company, a cutting-edge Greek design agency and think-tank from Thessaloniki, attempt to re-interpret the idea of a “monster”, by exploring its dual meaning both as someone who is “bad” and as someone who is “different”.

“The Greek Monsters” exhibition was created to celebrate Beetroot’s win of the red-dot Communication Design Award as the Agency of the Year for 2011, one of the highest distinctions in communication design.

Taking their cue from an invitation to present their work in Berlin, they decided to create a unique set of installations, sculptures, idols, stencil graffiti (resembling a contemporary frieze) and masks of famous ancient Greek monsters in a neo-black-figure style, resembling the one used widely on Greek pottery. Creatures like Cyclops, Medusa, Pegasus and the mighty Minotaur appear, some as large plastic sculptures, some as wall-paintings, ανδ some like invisible cratures that can only be heard, or seen with the use of a mobile phone.

With their innovative exhibition, the team of 11 designers aims to poke fun at Greece’s recent image as “the bad apple”

of Europe, but also to show that creativity is alive and well in the country and its design sector can compete with the best of them.

The Beetroot team has added tags to accompany the exhibits, where visitors can read poems relevant to each beast and which present their dual nature. For example, Hecatoncheires, powerful monsters with 100 hands, stand for control: “They call me a monster, not for my hundred hands…but because I can control them.”

The Minotaur, apart from a dreaded monster hiding in a labyrinth in Knossos, also stands for creativity, explaining how searching for an idea is like wandering in a dark labyrinth unaware of where its centre is. Visitors are also invited to use their imagination and create their own “monsters” out of flat magnets forming body parts, which they can stick on a white magnetic board set up in the hall.

The fierce plastic monster-masks hanging from the ceiling allow you to wear them and become the monster, yourself see the world through their eyes - and provide a great photo-opportunity. Beetroot have also created a catalogue named Teratology, in which you find sketches of the beasts and all the poems and thoughts that accompany the exhibition, as well as an appendix citing the identity and mythology behind each Greek monster.

Benaki Museum 138 Pireos Avenue Annexe, www.benaki. grTicket: 5 Euros / Metro: Keramikos “The Greek Monsters”, April 27 - July 29, 2012.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

11

“The Antikythera Shipwreck” The ship, the treasures, the Mechanism Visitors to the Archaeological Museum, the biggest in the country, will have the great opportunity to visit the fascinating Antikythera Shipwreck exhibition, which details the discovery of an ancient shipwreck near the island of Antikythera, south of the Peloponnesus, whose findings were recovered in 1900, 1901 and 1976.

Objects recovered from the seabed included statues, amphorae, domestic utensils, the statue of a disk thrower, a statue of Hercules, the head of a philosopher, a marble bull, a bronze lyre, ceramics and coins. Dating the finds has not proved an easy task, as many objects have been found to be older than others.

The most important part of the collection is the mysterious Antikythera Mechanism, an object dating to the second century BCE, which is believed to be the world’s first portable astronomical calculator. The mechanism was broken in pieces, but an archaeologist studying it at the time noticed that one large fragment of rock had a gear wheel embedded in it.

Scholars agree that the mechanism was

made in the Greek-speaking world, as all instructions are written in the “Hellenistic Common”, the dialect spoken throughout the post-Classical antiquity. It displayed the positions of the Sun, the Moon and most probably the five planets known in antiquity, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. The Mechanism was used to predict solar and lunar eclipses, kept an accurate calendar of many years, and displayed the date of several Pan-Hellenic games that took place in Greece, namely at Nemea, Isthmia, Delphi, Dodona and Olympia.

The device is remarkable for its level of craftsmanship and complexity (it has more than 30 gears), which has been compared to that of 19th century clocks. Since the purpose was to position planets with reference to the observer’s position on Earth, the device was based on the geocentric model – according to wich Earth is the center of the universe. The exhibition also includes a documentary and a 3D film which present the story of the shipwreck and the function of the mechanism.

Archaeological Museum 44 Patision Avenue, 210-8217717, Hours: Mon 1.30 p.m.-8 p.m., Tue-Sun 8 a.m.-3 p.m. / Tickets: 7 Euros, free entrance on May 18, June 5, last weekend of September http://www. namuseum.gr/wellcome-en.html // Train: Victoria. “Τhe Antikythera Shipwreck: The ship, the treasures, the Mechanism”, April 6 –April 28, 2012.

12

In tune with the city

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

13

Art versus crisis Jannis Kounellis is regarded today as one of the most important artists of the Italian “Arte Povera” movement, in which artists work with every day materials, such as rope, window frames, coal, glasses and found objects, like shells, pieces of wood and metal, distinguishing them from traditional panel painters. Kounellis conceptual work has been shown due appreciation through numerous exhibitions in many large museums in Europe and America and works of his are included in some of the most prestigious public and private art collections.

He chooses the most unlikely of places to present his work, mostly industrial sites, rather than galleries and museums, wishing to create a more dramatic effect, and make a lasting impression on the viewer.

The work Kounellis is presenting at the Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA) is new and site specific and reflects his thoughts and emotions on the hard times Greece is experiencing at present.

To compose it, he has used objects collected from local flea markets and junkyards that carry parts of the long history of the city, which has been through endless changes of populations, ideologies, and levels of prosperity.

As he is quoted saying at the MCA’s website, “at this particular moment it would be impossible to have just an exhibition of art in Greece.”

Cycladic Art Museum 4 Neofytou Douka Street, Kolonaki, 210-7228321 Hours: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Thu till 8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.-5 p.m., Tues closed. Ticket: 7 Euros / www. cycladic.gr / Metro: Syntagma, Evangelismos Jannis Kounellis, from April 5 - September 30 2012.

14

In tune with the city

Must-sees

There’s no doubt which site is the highlight of Athens.

The Acropolis Hill crowns the sprawling city as a constant reminder of its celebrated past and the uninterrupted inhabitation of the city through the millennia.

But Athens is not just a place to admire dead history.

Though still emerging, modern art is making its mark in the city’s cultural map. The unification of archaeological sites in the city centre has created a three kilometre pedestrian promenade, which connects the ancient sites around the Acropolis Hill with the neighbourhoods around it. The cities unmissables include the Acropolis Hill, the Archaeological museum, the pedestrian centre, Benaki, Cycladic, Islamic and Jewish Museums, as well as the oldest stadium in Europe, the Panathenaic.

The city is filled with festivals, galleries and contemporary cultural events that reach their peak during the summer season, when the Greek Festival (June-August) is in full swing and a series of foreign and Greek productions of classic and experimental theatre, music, dance, concerts and opera take over the capital. Modern viewings are presented in ancient theatres, while classical theatre is played in innovative ways. There are some seriously good shows every summer that will satisfy every taste. For all information concerning the festival, including programme and ticket booking, check the festival’s excellent website at www.greekfestival.gr, or pick up a copy of the programme from the festival’s ticket office at 39 Panepistimiou Street (Metro: Panepistimio).

You can start your walk from Dionyssiou Areopagitou Street, across from the Temple of Zeus in Makriyanni, and follow the cobblestone path around the Hill.

16

Mustsees

The ancient promenade The most enjoyable way to get a fuller picture of Athens’s historic centre is to stroll through the ancient ruins and narrow streets surrounding the Acropolis. The recent plan to unify the archaeological sites around the Acropolis Hill by pedestrianizing the streets and restoring monuments and listed buildings in the area has met with such success that Athenians have almost forgotten how it was before. The great thing about this route is that you can plan it any time of the day; either in daytime when you can pause to visit sites on the way, or in the evening, as part of your walk around the city centre. A good starting point would be from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, right across the Temple of Zeus in Makriyanni and then follow the cobblestone path around the Hill. On your way, you see the Acropolis Hill and the Parthenon, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus, Filopappou Hill, and further away, the hills of Imittos and Parnetha. The street is then renamed Apostolou Pavlou and you reach the picturesque square of Thissio, one of the liveliest neighbourhoods of the city, with cafÊs

and restaurants lining the streets. High up on Ermou Street you find the vast Keramikos cemetery, were Athenians were buried from 3,000 BCE until the 6th century CE. Continuing your walk you end up in Monastiraki from where you can either follow the route towards Gazi and Keramikos, or walk towards neighbouring Plaka.

High up on Ermou Street you find the vast Kerameikos ancient cemetery, were Athenians were buried from 3,000 BCE until the 6th century CE.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

17

Syntagma, Akropolis & Plaka

Monastiraki Square at night, breakdancing in Syntagma Aquare, euzones in front of the Parliament building.

Opposite: Anafiotika, Syntagma Square, the National Garden.

18

Mustsees

These three neighbourhoods constitute the core of Athens and are the main destination for anyone visiting the city and with good reason.

The white marbles of the Parthenon temple over the historic centre of the city and around the Hill, the old neighbourhoods with their small houses and quiet side-streets offer relief from the noise and heat of the modern city.

These neighbourhoods, the most photographed areas of the city, are the ideal places to start your walk when you fly into town.

Syntagma square is the centre of the city. Formerly a palace, the Parliament building and the square in front of it have been the ground of many important political events in the country’s history.

At the front courtyard there’s the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, paying tribute to the country’s dead soldiers, as well as the colourful Evzones – traditionally dressed guards. Every hour the changing of the presidential guards gathers many spectators who enjoy seeing men in kilts performing a perfectly synchronised ceremonial.

Behind the Parliament building, the National Gardens offer a much needed patch of green and shadow in the capital.

They are open from sun dawn to sun dusk and are accessible from Vasilissis Amalias avenue or Irodou Attikou Street.

The Gardens host about 47,000 trees and plants, a botanical museum, small ponds with fish and ducks, as well as a café.

At the southern side of the Gardens, you’ll find Zappeio Mansion, a donation of the wealthy Konstantinos Zappas in the 19th century, today used as a conference centre. During

Poetic justice: Walking through Plaka, at the junction of Ypereidou, Kekropos and Sotiros Streets, right across Nefeli Hotel, there is a boarded-up crumbling house, outside of which you may encounter the ‘poet’, an English-speaking man who has used the boards sealing the house as a canvas to make his humorous remarks on Greece’s political and economic woes. One of his comments reads: “Wanted, dead or alive, Greek Prime Minister, no qualifications or brains required, only well-connected. Permanent position, five-star salary, tax-free offshore, apply online anytime.”

the day, Zappeion serves as a getaway from the noise and the traffic of the city, while in the evening it’s a meeting point for those heading to the café, cinema or bar-restaurant located in the adjacent buildings.

The historic neighbourhood of Plaka embosoms the Acropolis Hill on all

sides. Together with Monastiraki, they contain an endless variety of historic sites from different eras and civilisations –Prehistoric, Greek, Roman, Ottoman. Apart from its touristy side, Plaka is one of the few remaining neighbourhoods of the city that retain their unique neoclassical

architectural style of old Athens. A walk through its winding streets is a glimpse in the way people lived and interacted with one another in the geitonia (neighbourhood) when everyone knew their neighbours and a daily stop at the café was a ritual. Perched right under the Acropolis is the quaint Anafiotika quarter, a quiet area with whitewashed Cycladicstyle houses. These small houses were built by stone masons from the Cycladic island of Anafi in the mid-19th century, who arrived in Athens to work at the construction of the royal palace after independence. The beautiful white Church of Aghios Georgios marks the area from afar. Walking towards the train lines, you enter Monastiraki, the biggest open-air museum in the country.

On Adrianou Street is the Ancient Agora, the centre of government in ancient Athens, while the amazing Temple of Hephestos built in 449 BCE, is the best preserved Doric temple in Greece. At the corner of Eolou and Adrianou Streets you find the Roman Agora and the impressive, octagonal Tower of the Winds that is said to have been a sundial and a water clock.

As an impressive proof of the successive civilisations that inhabited the area, inside the Roman Agora you also find the beautiful Fethiye Djami, one of the few surviving examples of Ottoman mosques in Athens. The second one is Tsistaraki Mosque, found right on Monastiraki Square, which has been renovated and is now housing the Kyriazopoulos Folk and Ceramic Museum, with a collection of over 800 pieces of ceramics from all over the country.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

19

The Acropolis Hill & the Parthenon Against all odds, the Acropolis Hill (entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street) dominates the Athenian skyline in a remarkable way.

Climbing the 70-metre Hill the history of the ancient city unfolds before you starting from the Neolithic Period, when the first findings are dated. Its flat top is due to the numerous landfills that have accommodated construction of fortifications and temples since the Mycenaean era.

The first building you encounter when you enter is the Propylea (437-432 BCE), the monumental gateway of the religious complex, made of marble from Mount Pendeli.

Its function was to receive and assemble the visitors and it was built in the Doric order with few Ionic columns supporting the roof of the central wing. The architect of the project Mnesicles began the construction of the building right after the main construction of the Parthenon was completed in 437 BCE. However, five years later the Peloponnesian war broke out and construction had to stop.

At the southwest is the elegant Temple of Athena Nike (426-421 BCE) of Ionian order, designed by the other wonder child of architecture, Kallikrates. It housed the statue of Athena Nike, which was made of wood and held a helmet in the left hand.

Since it had no wings, the temple acquired the name Apteros Nike (wing-less victory). This way, Athenians thought, victory could never leave the city.

The Erechtheion (421c405 BCE) is known for its spectacular six female figures functioning as columns, the Caryatids. Possibly named after the women of the city of Caryes, the originals have been transferred into the Acropolis museum. It is a complicated temple. The

20

Mustsees

idea was to accommodate the radically uneven ground of the site, and to avoid disturbing sacred shrines that pre-existed, like the altars to Poseidon and Hephaestus, or the spot where Poseidon hit the Acropolis with his trident. Other elements that needed to be included were the sacred olive tree, a well containing sea water, the tomb of Cecrops, and the Pandrosion sanctuary.

The Parthenon (447-438 BCE), built for Virgin (Parthenos) goddess Athena, was made to honour her after she won over the city in a confrontation with Poseidon.

Built atop an older temple destroyed by the Persians, it shows that Athenians spared no expense in rebuilding a sanctuary of unrivalled craftsmanship. The marble Doric structure was 13.72 metres high and 69.50 metres long.

Its famous architects, Iktinos and Kallikrates, used marble from Mount Penteli throughout the building for the first time in such constructions.

The building was meant to impress with the first glance and so it did, as visitors entered the Acropolis from Propylea and saw it in three quarter view. Its main function was to house the colossal statue of Athena made by Phedias out of gold and ivory.

The topic of the sculpted decorations was the myths regarding goddess Athena and the Persian defeat by Athens.

All artwork, supervised by the sculptor Phedias, was completed by 432 BCE. The decoration of the Parthenon combines the Doric metopes and triglyphs on the entablature, with the Ionic frieze on the walls of the cella. They depict the Gigantomachy on the east side, the Amazonomachy on the west, the Centauromachy on the south, and scenes from the Trojan War on the north.

The value of the Parthenon lies, among other things, in the fact that, it epitomised the ideals Athenian society had developed during Pericles’s Golden Age: Democracy, accuracy through mathematics, aesthetics, and focus on the individual.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

21

22

Mustsees

Acropolis Museum

Clockwise from left: The Caryatids from the south porch, the museum exterior, exibits in the Archaic Gallery, and the Parthenon Gallery.

The much talked about – by Greeks and foreigners alike – Acropolis Museum will celebrate three years of operation in June.

All antiquities formerly crammed in the small museum atop the namesake hill were transported in 2007 with a mammoth-sized operation. The last exhibits were placed into their new positions in April 2008.

The building, designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi and Greek architect Mihalis Photiades, is made out of cement, stainless steel and glass, with spacious galleries. According to the architects, the idea behind the structure was to keep it solemn and simple, in an effort to focus attention on the exhibits, rather than the building itself.

The exhibition rooms house the most important artefacts of the classical period, as well as other treasures that were previously kept in storage for lack of space.

The museum has divided its roughly 4,000 artefacts in five collections: The finds from the slopes of the Acropolis Hill, antiquities from the archaic period, the classical period, the post-classical era and the Roman period.

Some of the most emblematic ancient Greek antiquities are displayed here: The archaic Kouri (male statues) and Kores (female statues), a vast number of pottery, marble sculptures of maidens and athletes, the Parthenon frieze and all its surviving parts.

Visitors will also have a chance to admire a collection of artefacts dug out during the excavation process on the ground floor and inspect the ancient city-beneaththe-city. Archaeologists uncovered ancient roads, houses, bath houses and workshops dating between 3,000 BCE-1,200 BCE, all of which can now be examined through a glass floor that extends from the outside area to the main hall. The route one follows forms a spiral pathway leading from the ground floor where the archaic artefacts are exhibited, upwards towards the Parthenon marbles and back down through the Roman era.

The top floor houses the Parthenon frieze displayed in its original, 2,500-year-old full-length entirety, placed at the same angle as it did when it was on its original location, to maximise its effect on the viewer. The pieces missing from the frieze, famously known as the Elgin Marbles, have been replaced by duplicates.

Greeks have been very vocal in requesting the originals back from the British Museum where they have been housed since Lord Elgin hacked them off the Parthenon in 1801.

Needless to say, its top floor café and restaurant has the best view in town. Visitors can book tickets online or buy them directly at the museum booth. Tourist groups roll in early, so try to be there before 8 a.m.

Entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou, Makriyanni, 210-9241043, Tue-Sun 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Fri till 10 p.m. / Mon closed/ Entrance: €5 / Fri: Restaurant open till midnight / www.theacropolismuseum.gr

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

23

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum

Jewish Museum Housed in a beautiful 19th century mansion, the Jewish museum traces the long history of the Romaniote and Sephardic Jewish communities in Greece, starting from the 3rd century BCE, through WWII and the present day. The vast majority of Greek Jews were killed in concentration camps during the WWII. Initially established in 1977, it collected jewellery, rare books and publications, textiles and domestic and religious artefacts in an effort to study preserve and exhibit all aspects of the lives of Greek Jews.

As the collection grew, the museum’s activities expanded both in research and study of the Greek Jews and publishing. The exhibit moved to new grounds and the initial collections were enriched with added artefacts. The ground floor exhibits religious artefacts from synagogues that have closed down and ritual textiles dating from the 14th-19th centuries CE. A collection of items used in everyday and religious 24

Mustsees

Numismatic Museum

life are showcased next to costumes, photographs and documents. The photographic archive, consisting of original black-and-white or colour pictures as well as printed copies and slides, offers an invaluable glimpse at the everyday life of Greek Jews in various cities of the country.

39 Nikis, Plaka, 2103225582, Hrs: Mon-Fri 9a.m.-2.30p.m., Sun 10a.m.-2p.m. Tickets: €5 / Metro: Syntagma.

Centre of Folk Art & Tradition Experience the traditional way of Greek life in this quaint little mansion, created to preserve old-school Greek arts such as embroidery, needlework, traditional costume creation and pottery. The house was the residence of folklorist Angeliki Hatzimihali (1895-1965) and showcases objects of Greek craftsmanship like embroideries and musical instruments, as well as an impressive library

with books on Balkan folk art and crafts.

6 Hatzimihali Angeliki, Plaka, 210-3243972, HoursCentral building: Tue-Sun 9 a.m-2 p.m. / The Mosque: Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. / Bathhouse of the Winds: Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun: 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. / The Building at 22 Panos Str: Tue-Sun 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m./ Tickets: €2 / Metro: Syntagma

Museum of Greek Folk Art Dedicated to Greek folk art, like embroidery, ceramics, shadow-theatre and wood-carvings, as they developed from the 17th century onwards, this amazing museum is housed in four different annexes. The main building (17 Kydathineon Street), houses the main collection of traditional costumes, silverware, embroidery, engraving and stone sculpture, as well as the amazing “Painted Chamber” by Theofilos Chatzimichail (1860-1934), a classical example of naïf art that

once decorated the official chamber of a house on Lesvos Island (Mytilini).

The old Tzirdaraki Mosque (1 Areos Street), houses the fine Kyriazopoulou pottery collection.

The third venue is the Bathhouse of the Winds (8 Karystou Street), the only public bath of Athens surviving today, dating to the first period of Ottoman rule (1453-1669). While the collection which will be housed there is being prepared, one can visit the venue itself and explore its amazing labyrinth architecture. Last but not least, the building at 22 Panos Street is housing the latest exhibition, titled: “Men and Tools.

Aspects of labour in Preindustrial Society.”

Recently the museum opened a shop (45 Adrianou Street, Monastiraki), featuring tasteful replicas of embroidery, shadow puppets, children’s toys, jewelry, scarves, books and decorative objects, inspired by the museum’s rich collection.

17 Kydathineon, Plaka, 210-3229031, Hours: TueSun 9 a.m.-2 p.m. / www. melt.gr / Metro:Syntagma

Museum of Greek Folk Art

Museum of Greek Popular Instruments

material that is made to vibrate, bearing tonguetwisting names such as membranophones, aerophones, chordophones and idiophones.

Greek music lovers will be enthused with the exhibit of 1,200 popular music instruments dating from the 18th century and offering a glimpse in the variety of music sounds. The museum displays about half of the instruments forming the Anoyanakis Collection, selected on the criterion not only of their aesthetic but also of their ethnological and musicological interest. The remaining instruments are available for research, for travelling exhibitions and for occasional exhibitions of a special nature. The collection is spread over three floors and divided into four sections, according to the

1-3 Diogenous, Plaka, 210-3254119, 3250198, Hrs: Tue, Thu-Sun 10 a.m -2 p.m., Wed noon-6 p.m., Entrance: Free / Metro: Monastiraki.

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum A private museum established by accomplished Greek jeweler Ilias Lalaounis, that showcases the history and art of jewelry-making from ancient times. There are enough jewelry items here to create a new gold-rush, with visitors admiring about 4,000

Museum of Greek Popular Instruments

items designed by the museums’ founder. Each collection has a different theme: One is inspired by the art, archaeology and anthropologic findings of prehistoric Europe and Greece, another is influenced by the Arabic, Celtic and Iranian art and there’s even a collection influenced by technology, astronomy and biology.

12 Kallisperi & Karyatidon, Makrigianni, 210-9221044, Hrs: Mon, Thu-Sat 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Wed 9 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Tickets: €4, free Wed 5 p.m.-9 p.m., Sat 9 a.m-11 a.m. / http://www.lalaounisjewelrymuseum.gr / Metro: Akropoli

Numismatic Museum See the massive collection of ancient coins from antiquity through the Byz-

antine and modern times, in what was originally the impressive house of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann.

One gallery is dedicated to the famous archaeologist, exhibiting personal papers and collections, while the others exhibit different types of coins found all over Greece. A famous item is the “Coin hoard from Myrina”, a vase containing 149 silver coins from Aegina. The museums’ outdoor café apart from being one of citys’ best kept secrets, as most Athenians do not know it exists, offers a quick respite after a long day.

12 Panepistimiou, Syntagma, 210-3643774, Hours: Tue-Sun 8:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Tickets: €3 / http:// www.nma.gr / Metro: Syntagma.

Full moon events: August’s full-moon always appears to be the most impressive of the year - probably because of the clear skies and heat - and Athenians have a unique way of celebrating it. Traditionally, the Ministry of Culture opens up dozens of archaeological sites and museums around the country, allowing visitors free entry and a chance to enjoy them under the moonlight. In addition to that, the ministry organizes several open-air concerts around town. Romantics take to the small hills around the Acropolis (Philopappou, Pnyka) as the idea of admiring the city and its past under the moon is unbeatable.

As expected, most people are eager to enter the Acropolis Hill as the image of the Parthenon against a giant bright moon is a major crowd-puller – and makes for a great picture too. Others opt for the serene Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, as well as the ancient Keramikos cemetery. This year’s August includes two full-moons, one on the 2nd, and one on the 31st. At the time of writing the date had not been determined, but the website www.visitgreece.gr will announce the details of this event.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

25

Omonia, Exarhia & inner city Also known as the ugliest part of Athens, and the poster child of Athens’s unchecked “development” of previous decades regardless the numerous (and unsuccessful) efforts to redesign it, Omonia square still offers some informative glances at inner city life. Apart from the magnificent Archaeological museum, the area around Omonia offers little other cultural stimulants and it should be avoided during the night.

Nearby Exarhia though is an exception. It is traditionally considered as the black sheep in a family whose other kid is the adjacent neighbourhood of ultra chic Kolonaki. Originally, its proximity to the Polytechnic University and the establishment of left-wing party headquarters, attracted students and intellectuals, allowing it to gradually become a hub of the city’s intelligencia and leftist political parties. Unfortunately in recent times it also became known as a hangout spot for shady characters, due to the establishment of failed anti-drug addiction centres. Nowadays the area is perfectly safe, but its past has allowed it to retain a unique non-conformist character. Its streets are also one of the best open-air graffiti galleries, so take the time to wander around and admire some very artistic creations (Tzavella and Emmanouil Benaki Streets to name a few).

26

Mustsees

The Archaeological Museum After its recent renovation, the Archaeological Museum’s spectacular collection of art flourished in Greece from the Neolithic Period until the Roman Period, is presented in a more organised way, much to its advantage. The building was constructed in various phases from 1866 to 1939 on plans originally made

by Ludwig Lange and remodelled by Ernst Ziller.

Start with the Prehistoric collection, with artefacts from the Neolithic, Cycladic and Mycenaean periods, testifying to the long human presence in the area now known as Greece (6,800-3,200 BCE). The clay figurine of a man touching his head with his hand and

the voluptuous female figurines are some of the most famous Neolithic findings. Don’t miss the largest surviving female cycladic figure from Amorgos Island, as well as the amazing harpist, made from dazzling white marble.

You will be stunned by the spectacular treasures discovered in Mycenae by legendary German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. The Mycenaen collection includes stone, bronze and ceramic pots, figurines and glass objects, as well as golden seals and rings from the vaulted tombs in Mycenae and other parts of Peloponnesus.

The delicate golden funerary masks, cups and jewellery, as well as the carved ivory objects found in the royal tombs testify to the sophistica-

tion of the artistry, while the Linear B inscriptions provide information on the administrative organisation of the Mycenaean world. Here you will also see the so-called Mask of Agamemnon, the famous gold mask covering the face of a man, originally thought to be the legendary king Agamemnon.

Other masterpieces of the Museum are found in the numerous sculpture galleries, where the visitor can trace the development of Greek sculpture from the 7th century BCE to the early Byzantine Period.

Among other artefacts, you will see the threemetre-tall Kouros from the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, the bronze two-metre-tall statue of a mystery God (said to be Zeus or Poseidon), and the bronze Hellenistic masterpiece of a young rider on a horse. The Museum

also has an inexhaustible collection of pottery, metalwork and small objects used in everyday life.

Some of the most remarkable examples of fresco painting from the 16th century BCE come from Santorini, inspiring awe with their intricate details and vibrant colours. The Antelope, the Boxing Children and Spring will dazzle you with their vitality and figurativeness.

The Museum recently opened its excellent Egyptian collection, considered as the fourth most important in Europe.

In total, the collection includes more than 6,000 artefacts. The visitor can admire the mummies, nine of which were donated by the Egyptian government in 1893, rare statues, tools, jewels, a wooden body tag for a mummy, a stunning bronze statue of a princess, intact bird

eggs and a 3,000-yearold loaf of bread with a bite-sized chunk missing.

The exhibition’s centrepiece is a bronze statue of the princess-priestess Takushit, dating from around 670 BCE. Further down there are also some exquisite Fayum funerary portraits, with their characteristic expressive eyes.

Do not miss the collection of donors Antonis and Eleni Stathatos whose artefacts span from the 5th millennium BCE until the post-Byzantine era, and include mostly pottery and jewellery. In 2009, a Cypriot collection of antiquities was inaugurated in the Museum, comprising of small statues, jewellery and pottery.

In 2006 and 2007, new important additions were made. The Getty Museum of California returned two important artefacts which had been looted,

after a 10-year-old legal dispute with the Greek government. These are a 4th century BCE golden funerary wreath and a 6th century BCE marble statue of a woman. Previously, Getty had agreed to return a 4th century BCE tombstone from Thebes and a 6th century BCE votive relief from Thasos.

All can be admired in the museum today.

Do not forget to visit the temporary exhibition of The Antikythera Shipwreck, (see Must-sees for details), which will be presented from April 6 until April 28 2013.

44 Patision Avenue, 210-8217717, Hours: Mon 1:30 p.m.-8 p.m., Tue-Sun 8 a.m.-3 p.m. / Tickets: â‚Ź7, free entrance on May 18th, June 5th, last weekend of September / http://www. namuseum.gr/wellcome-en. html / Train: Victoria

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

27

Kolonaki & Lycavittos Hill Walk past Benaki Museum up Koumbari Street (or follow Kanari Street starting from Academias street) and you’ll find yourself in Kolonaki square, the centre of town. Officially called Platia Filikis Eterias (Friendly Society Square), it is unofficially known for its chic boutiques, society kids, overpriced coffee and preferred residence of the upper class. Kolonaki (means little column) was named after a small ancient column still standing in the middle of the square.

Culture in Kolonaki revolves around its impressive museums and contemporary galleries, housing the top of the crop in artists both Greek and foreign.

Benaki Museum The private museum in the city’s chic neighbourhood of Kolonaki is housed in a beautiful 19th century neo-classical mansion, donated by Greek benefactor Antonis Benakis. The first floor is dedicated to Palaeolithic and Bronze Ages, the Cycladic, Mycenaean and classical era. There is a vast collection of tools, marble vessels, golden 28

Mustsees

jewellery and painted pottery, glassware, ceramics, funerary stele, murals, Fayum portraits, as well as a large collection of roman statues.

Don’t miss the Fayum “Portrait of a Young Man”. It’s an expressive portrait of a male form from Antinoopoli of Egypt, painted with the encaustic method on linen. It dates from the 3rd century CE and many components of the new wave in Greek painting have their roots

in it. Another important painting is Theodoros Vyzakis’s painting “The Oath at Agia Lavra” (1851), a work of historical significance, whose composition marks a myth surrounding the beginning of the War for Independence in Kalavrita on March 25, 1821.

There is an excellent collection of Byzantine icons and mosaics as well as beautifully knitted religious fabrics.

The first floor offers a glimpse of 17th-18th

century Greece, with a collection of traditional festive and bridal attires, embroideries, jewellery, woodwork and items of daily use from Crete, the Dodecanese, Cyclades and Cyprus. The wooden Cretan loom is a masterpiece, as well as the wooden chests and the intricate golden jewellery.

Don’t miss the reconstructions of the interiors of the houses of regional noblemen from the 18th century. The second floor showcases musical instru-

Far below: τhe Benaki Museum exterior. Left: a reconstruction of the house of a regional nobleman. Below: Pieces from the museum’s vast collection that covers a large swathe of Greek history.

1 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki, 210 3671000, Wed, Fri, Sat: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., Thu till 12 a.m., Sun till 3 p.m., closed on Monday and Tuesday, www.benaki.gr / Ticket: 6 Euros, temporary exhibitions: 3 Euros / Metro: Syntagma

ments and books, while the third one is dedicated to post-revolutionary (post-1821) Greece.

There are manuscripts by poets such as Dionysios Solomos, paintings, furniture, personal items of revolutionary figures and philhellenes like Lord Byron and items of the first royal families to rule Greece. You can also find a selection of paintings by famous 20th century Greek painters like Nikos Eggonopoulos, as well as personal items of Nobel

Prize-winners George Seferis and Odysseas Elytis.

The museum has two more annexes: The modern art division at Pireos Street and the Islamic Museum in Kerameikos (see descriptions below). This summer, its temporary exhibitions in the Pireos Annexe feature the cutting-edge work of Greek design team Beetroot and painter Sean Scully’s monumental “Doric” works (see relevant entries in In Tune with the City).

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

29

Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris started collecting archaeological artefacts in the early 1960s, after being granted official permission by the Greek state. The collection soon became renowned among scholars because of its exquisite and rare Cycladic objects (marble figurines and vessels), which were published by Prof. Christos Doumas in 1968.

Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA)

As its name suggests, this museum showcases the largest collection of the gorgeous white marble figurines of Cycladic Art, which have influenced modern sculptors with their grace, abstractive form and sleek surface.

Most of them were discovered in tombs but their meaning is still debated. These figurines are mostly female, have their hands crossed in front of them and slightly bended knees. The seated figure raising its cup in toast is of exemplary technique, as well as the violin-shaped one that represents body shapes in the third millennium BC. Other displays show the marble vessels and basins used for religious and everyday activities.

On the second floor you’ll find artefacts from Mycenae up until the Roman era: Hydrias, glass vessels for oils, golden objects and amphorae from Attica. The third floor houses temporary exhibitions, while the fourth floor presents the Karolos Politis collection, a rich selection of about 120 artefacts covering all periods of Greek art until the 6th century AC. The collection includes vessels, clay pottery, and beautiful bronze helmets.

After your tour, don’t forget to visit the gift shop with its beautiful replicas of the iconic Cycladic figurines.

4 Neofytou Douka, Kolonaki, 210-7228321 / Hours: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Thu till 8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.-5 p.m., Tues closed / Ticket: 7 Euros / www.cycladic.gr / Metro: Syntagma, Evangelismos

30

Mustsees

Byzantine & Christian Muse um One of the most impressive collections of Byzantine and post-Byzantine era artwork is stored in the Byzantine Museum.

Its aim is to acquire, save, conserve, record and showcase objects of early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval and modern religious art. Its 25,000 objects date from the 3rd until the 20th centuries CE and originate from Greece, Asia Minor and the Balkans. Collections include among others, sculptures, icons,

National Museum of Contemporary Art (NMCA)

The demand for a museum of contemporary art in Athens had been pressing for decades and the newly established National Museum of Contemporary Art (NMCA) is trying to catch up on lost time. As its permanent home is being constructed (the old Fix brewery in Makriyanni) it is now housed in the Athens Conservatory’s premises, hosting exhibitions of Greek and international artists. To make up for the lack of a permanent collection, NMCA organises many shows during the year.

wall-paintings, ceramics, textiles, manuscripts, drawings and chalcography. Some of the most spectacular objects are the icons and the textiles, most of which are of unparallel craftsmanship, like the 13th century Madonna Glykofilousa (Sweet kisser) and the silk religious frock worn by priests in the 17th century. Continue to the manuscript section and admire the beautiful scrolls, Holy Bibles and the rare Etymologikon (Grammar book) from the early 18th century. The famous icon of “Archangel Michael” (14th century) represents dedication in

Presently it hosts the exhibition SonicTime, Speech/Sound/Silence which brings together fifty five multimedia installations from the Museum’s collections, that focus on language, sound, music and silence as their common matrix (until September 30, 2012). Upcoming exhibitions include the Visual Poetry Group (Jun 20 –Sept 2, 2012).

Temporary address: 17-19 Vasileos Georgiou Street & Rigillis Street (entrance Rigillis), Athens Conservatory, 2109242111, Hours: Tue-Sun 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Thu 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon closed, Τickets: 3 Euros, Thu free from 5 p.m.-10 p.m., exhibitions in media lounge free / www.emst.gr / Metro: Evangelismos

classical tradition. The exquisite quality of art reveals a close link to the Constantinople workshops of the first half of the 14th century. The museum also holds the Loverdos collection with its 660 religious artefacts for conservation and indefinite keeping. Don’t miss the photographic exhibition that testifies to the original architectural design of old churches that have since been remodeled or rebuilt.

22 Vasilisis Sofias Avenue, Kolonaki, 2107294926 / Hours: Tue-Sun 8.30 a.m.-6 p.m., tickets: 4 Euros for temporary exhibition / Metro: Evangelismos.

Clockwise from left: the building of the Byzantine & Christian Museum, art from the current exhibition of the National Museum of Contemporary Art.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

31

Pangrati & Mets Panathenaic stadium Originally built in the 4th century BCE, the Panathenaic stadium was rebuilt in marble by Lycurgus in 329 BCE, to host the athletic event of Panathinaea. During this annual athletic event, the stadium hosted racing, boxing, jumping, javelin-throwing, chariot and horse races. The venue was expanded by Herodes Atticus in 144 CE to accommodate 50,000 people, and in Roman times it was used as an arena. Also known as Kallimarmaron (beautiful marble), it was rebuilt once again with funds provided by Athenian benefactor George Averoff to host the first modern Olympic Games of 1896. During these Games, about 280 male athletes from 12 countries participated in 43 events

covering athletics (track and field), cycling, swimming, gymnastics, weightlifting, wrestling, fencing, shooting, and tennis. Its hairpin-like shape adds to its uniqueness, setting it apart from modern stadiums. Up until the ‘50s, Ilissos River streamed at the front, while the remnants of the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Gate are a five minute walk from the venue.

In the Athens 2004 Olympics, the stadium hosted the archery competition and the marathon finish line.

Today it is a tourist attraction, used only for special events, but joggers will be thrilled to know that they can use the venue from 7.30 a.m.-9 a.m..

Vasileos Konstantinou Street, Mets, 210-3251744 / Ticket: 3 Euros / Hours: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. / www.panathenaicstadium.gr / Tram: Zappeio, Metro: Syntagma

If you’re visiting the Panathenaic Stadium, the National Gardens are right accross the street, perfect if you need a cool break. Otherwise head for the Athens Cemetery to admire the sculptures of Yiannoulis Halepas.

32

Mustsees

Exibits from the National Gallery collection.

National Art Gallery The gallery’s permanent collection houses more than 15,000 works of painting, sculpture dating from the post-Byzantine period (second half of 15th century) until today, while temporary exhibitions are often on.

There are some real artistic treasures hidden in the city’s museums and the National Gallery is no exception. When you visit its premises, start from the courtyard, where you’ll bump into August Rodin’s “Man marching on a column”. This is a unique work of Rodin and a recent acquisition of the Gallery. Headless and handless, with the sculptural interest shifting to its stride and the pure idea of movement, it drastically influenced the work of later artists like Marcel Duchamp and the

Italian futurists. Another important sculpture in the courtyard is Antoine Bourdelles’ “Dying Centaur”, made in 1914.

It’s an emotional work of high aesthetic virtues, elegiac air, transmitting an intense feeling of eternity and deep melancholy.

Its creator said “He’s dying because they don’t believe in him anymore.”

Inside the halls don’t miss El Greco’s (Domenicos Theotokopoulos) “Burial of Christ”. Strong and free drawing, rich colour and deep emotion characterise one of the most important works of the artist’s Venetian period.

Drawn on wood, it signifies its Byzantine influences and shows the first gains of Theotokopoulos in western art.

Another masterpiece in the Gallery is the “Children’s Concert”

by George Iakovidis, painted in 1900. Much talked about and always

enjoyable Iakovidis’ painting focuses on the room of a German household, where a lively group of children puts together a makeshift band to entertain the young girl stretching out her hands. It’s a wellbalanced composition with colourful patches of light, wide nervous brush strokes and “vibrant” light pervading the room like music. In the same period, the “Engagement of Children” by Nikolaos Gyzis (1877) gives off a nobility of ideas and feelings of sweetness. A top artist of the “Munich school”, Iakovidis manages to make an amazing use of light, of bright reds and whites, sensual blues and an admirable rendering of the objects and the human forms. Its topic takes from oral legends of the Ottoman period.

In a totally different style, “Kalamata’s Port” by Constantinos Parthenis

(1911) belongs to the second creative phase of the modernist artist – he made it in Paris. The contact of the “aristocrat” cosmopolitan artist with the Parisian avant-garde influenced him greatly.

“Kalamata’s Port” focuses on the Greek light, while resonating the postimpressionists and the Fauves. Last but not least, Mihalis Economou’s “Red Tent” (1927-1928) shows the artist’s interest in landscapes. The “Red Tent”, a fluid and light landscape that appears to be moving according to the wind, shows a lonely figure and has all the signs of the artist’s style, typical of which is the use of unusual materials.

50 Vasileos Konstantinou Street, 210-7235937/ Hrs: Mon & Wed 9 a.m.-3 p.m. & 6 p.m.-9 p.m., ThuSat 9 a.m.-3 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.-2 p.m. / Entrance: 6.50 Euros / Metro: Evangelismos.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

33

Gazi & Psyrri

Though they are two of the oldest neighbourhoods of Athens, Gazi and Psyrri are today synonymous with trendy, contemporary culture. Psyrri was the first area to change in the mid-nineties, when its old crumbling neoclassical houses and workshops were turned into art galleries, theatres and restaurants one by one. In a few years, the narrow streets of Psyrri filled with cafés, modern tavernas, bars and clubs, all lined up next to the other, packed with people looking for a chair to sit on. Without a broader plan for organised gentrification, the area soon reached saturation point and in a few years restless souls were looking for something new.

In 2000 Gazi emerged as the next best thing, an untouched industrial neighbourhood with a great potential.

Technopolis’ scarlet chimney became the point of reference around which the previously forlorn area was being restored. The opening of Benaki museum’s Pireos annexe cemented Gazi’s newly acquired identity as an up-andcoming, industrial-chic area. Here too, tavernas, cafés and bars were quick to follow and Gazi became part of the mainstream. However both neighbourhoods still sport a distinctive mark, as they are some of the few places where you can still find workshops of copper and cobblers. Street art is right at home here, with graffiti artists using any available flat surface to paint. The most impressive one is the colourful work of Brazilian artists Os Gemeos painted on the walls of the trolley depot station in Pireos Street, right across Technopolis.

Psyrri online: www.psirri.gr.

34

Mustsees

Technopolis The industrial chic cultural centre of Technopolis in Gazi represents the capital’s turn towards contemporary architecture and art. The old gasworks building dating from 1862 was converted into a complex of venues refurbished to house exhibitions, festivals, concerts and all sorts of happenings. The main building’s slender chimney, beautifully illu-

minated with red lights in the evening, has become a local landmark, while other features like the furnaces and cauldrons testify to the industrial past of the area. Once a derelict working class village, the area of Gazi, locally known as Gazohori (village of Gazi) has transformed into a busy and funky neighbourhood. Much of the metamorphosis is due to the restoration of the old factory, the

Thisio Islamic Art museum The Islamic Art museum of Athens showcases one of the best collections of Islamic art in Europe and is spread across two neoclassical mansions. About 10,000 artefacts of the early Islamic and Ottoman periods have found their place in this modern museum, including artwork such as the Iznik ceramics, carved wooden doors, prayer carpets, jars, bowls with intricate designs and bright colors.

The first two levels trace the history of Islamic art from the 7th century until the 16th century, while the fourth level exhibits Iranian artwork of the Qajar period.

The ceramic collection is one of the finest of its kind with beautiful items of the Fatimid era, detailed jewellery and calligraphic inscriptions.

Among the museum’s highlights there are some unique pieces like the silk garments, the brass chests, carved wooden doors and Islamic tiles, as well as the detailed reconstruction of a 17th-century interior of a Cairo mansion on the third floor.

refurbishing of public buildings and the opening of restaurants and bars which attracted the city’s youth. The local annexe of Benaki museum, home to many contemporary exhibitions, is only a few blocks from the metro station of Keramikos, adding to the hyped profile of the area.

100 Pireos Street, Gazi, 210-3461589 / www. cityofathens.gr/en/city-athens-technopolis-0 / Metro: Keramikos

Foundation of the Hellenic World (FHW) The FHW is unique in its kind, creating the first digital presentation of Greek history through high technology and a series of informative exhibitions like “Meeting in Ancient

Agora”, “Travel in the World of Ancient Greek Math”, “Theatre, an Art of Arts”. The mission of FHW is to gather, preserve and exhibit Greek history and tradition.

254 Pireos Street, Tavros, 212 2540000, Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Ticket: price depends on exhibition / Train: Kallithea

22 Agion Asomaton Street & Dipylou Street, Keramikos, 210-3251311 / Hrs: Thu-Sun 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Entrance: 5 Euros, Wed free / www.benaki.gr /Train: Thisio.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

35

Kifissia & Marousi

100 Othonos Street, Kifissia, 210-8015170, MonSat 9 a.m.-2.30 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.-2.30 p.m., Entrance 5 Euros , kids 3 Euros, single ticket for Goulandri museum 7 Euros, kids 4 Euros. Train: Kifissia

Goulandri Museum of Natural History

Foundation Yiannis Tsarouhis Yiannis Tsarouhis was one of the most prominent painters in recent Greek history and the museum is dedicated to his work. Paintings by Tsarouhis are found in several private collections, but this museum has the largest public collection of his work. The painter has made a name for himself by representing, through his art, a realistic, personal version of Greekness through popular tradition. One of the most famous paintings is the “Sailor in the Sun� (1968-1970), painted with half his face in shadow, in a characteristic posture with his hands on his waist. He’s one of the many sailors painted by Tsarouhis, probably the most familiar, famous and fine figure among men with harsh characteristics.

The upper-class suburb of Kifissia, apart from luxury brand boutiques houses two very important private museums, the Natural History Museum and the Gaia Centre. They are definitely worth the half-hour train ride to visit them, as they are original in their concept, very well maintained and use state-of the-art exhibits.

Goulandri Museum of Natural History Home to hundreds of thousands of botanic and animal specimens from around the world, it also houses a series of rocks, fossilized birds and embalmed animals.

36

Mustsees

The perfect place to bring kids. You can buy the single ticket for entrance in both Gaia Centre and Goulandri Museum for 7 Euros. The museum shop has several publications on Greek flora and fauna, as well as beautiful watercolors of flowers, ready to be framed.

13 Levidou Street, Kifissia, 210-8015870, Hrs: Mon-Sat 9 a.m.-2.30 p.m.,

Sun 10 a.m.-2.30 p.m., closed in August. Ticket: 5 Euros, kids 3 Euros / Train: Kifissia.

Gaia Centre Interactive media are used to present life on earth and the human presence. Kids will love the technology involved in exploring the mysteries of the planet.

28 Ploutarhou Street, Marousi, 210-8062636, Hours: Wed-Sun 9 a.m.-2 p.m., Mon-Tue closed, Entrance: 3Euros, free on Thursdays / Train: KAT

Athens for less

You do not have to blow your inheritance to enjoy Athens.

With a few simple tips and ideas you will be able to master the art of smart spending and make your Euros stretch. Here is a guide to all the freebies and cheap ways to make the most of your time in the city.

Accommodation Finding a reasonablypriced hotel room with a view in the old city of Plaka is quite a feat, as many hotels in the area are quite dated and charge a lot simply because they happen to offer a glimpse of the Acropolis Hill from a window.

However, the current financial turmoil means that hoteliers have slashed their prices in order to attract tourists, and are even throwing in a few fee extras like breakfast and Wi-Fi. A safe choice is the renovated Airotel Stratos Vassilikos (114 Mihalakopoulou Avenue, 210-7706611, www.

airotel.gr) which offers an exceptional value for money, as the price of 79 euros for a double room includes breakfast, free wireless Internet and use of the gym. Though it is a favourite among business and city-break travellers, there’s nothing stiff about it. The decoration is colourful and eye-catching, with floral patterns dominating the walls and furniture.

There’s also a restaurant which offers international cuisine in a modern, spacious area and a bar on the ground floor for a nightcap. The area around the hotel is buzzing with activity. Mavili square, with its famed street bars Briki (6 Doryleou Street) and Flower (2 Doryleou Street) is only a five-minute walk

from Vassilikos, while culture vultures will appreciate its proximity to Benaki Museum and the National Gallery.

The closest metro station is Megaron Moussikis (a seven-minute walk), while the Kolonaki shopping district is a 15-minute walk away though the area definitely does not file under the “bargain” category.

If you prefer to stay closer to the historical centre, A for Athens (2-4 Miaouli Street, Monastiraki Square, 210-3244244, www.aforathens.com ) is the place for you. It is more expensive than Vassilikos, but its elegant, squeaky-clean, fullyequipped rooms, as well as the 180-degree-view of Monastiraki Square from its windows, are worth it. The price for rooms with an Acropolis view is 140 Euros, and 120 Euros without it, while both include breakfast and free Wi-Fi. This hotel is smack in the middle of Monastiraki, only minutes from the ancient Roman Agora, Plaka, funky Psyrri neighbourhood, its busy flea market and Syntagma square.

Breakfast is served at the top floor, where you’ll be rewarded with that coveted Acropolis Hill view.

An added perk is that the breakfast-café area (opening into a terrace during the summer) turns into a bar in the evenings, serving really good cocktails.

Alternatively, if your idea of “accommodation” is simply a place to crash in the small hours of the morning, try couch-surfing. A favourite among

students and backpackers, the website www.couchsurfing.com offers anyone with an adventurous spirit a chance to find a comfy couch for free, and maybe even make new friends.

Transportation Thankfully, getting around Athens is comparatively cheap. The best deal is to buy a 24-hour flat-rate ticket that can be used for unlimited rides on all public transportation (Metro, buses, “ISAP” electric railway, trams, trolleys and suburban railway) and only costs 4 Euros.

If you’re planning to stay in Athens for a week, the seven-day ticket will cover your needs on all public transportation for 14 Euros. Both these tickets exclude travel to and from the airport and bus stops beyond Varkiza.

Environmentalists and athletic types will be thrilled to know that the first bike rental agency has opened in Athens, where you can rent a bike for 3 Euros per hour, or 15 Euros for 24 hours.

Acropolis bikes (10-12 Aristidou Street, Panepistimio, 210-3245793, mobile +6944 306130, www.acropolisbikes.gr) also organises group bike tours in areas of interest, like the two-hour tour around the Acropolis hill, or the Ancient Agoras and the Theatre of Dionysus. Keep in mind that there are no authorised bike-only lanes in the city and you will have to be mindful of drivers.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

37

The perfect euro-saving weekend Friday morning, afternoon Start your day at Ariston bakery (10 Voulis, Syntagma, 210-3227626) with one of its fresh pies stuffed with everything under the sun. Then cross the street and sit at 7Jokers (7 Voulis) for a cold frappé coffee, or get a take-out coffee at Stoa Café right across 7Jokers.

Take the Metro from Syntagma Square and get off at Acropolis station.

The Acropolis Museum has a five-euro entrance fee, and gives you the opportunity to see the best cheaply.

If you want access to all the archaeological sites, get the 12-euro Acropolis combo ticket which is valid for four days.

Friday evening Back to Monastiraki, grab a table at Thanassis (69 Mitropoleos Street) and have a filling souvlaki for 1.70 euros or add a Greek salad for another 4 Euros. For some afternoon entertainment, head towards Technopolis in Gazi, where free exhibitions, music festivals and gigs take place throughout the summer.

When you’re ready for a 38

Mustsees

drink, head back towards Pireos Street, cross it at the point where it meets Ermou Street and walk towards Thissio. At 9 Thessalonikis Street you will find a quiet oldstyle Lux Café (written Λουξ), which offers ouzo, rakomelo and mezedes, but is also famous for its fresh –and cheap- mojito.

Saturday morning Find one of the chain bakery-cafés Grigoris or Everest (Panepistimiou Street or Syntagma Square) for a quick bite and a strong coffee. Your next stop should be the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square, which takes place every hour on the hour. Cross Amalias Αvenue and continue all the way down Othonos Street, cross the square and continue down Mitropoleos until you reach Plaka, the old heart of Athens. The area is quite touristic, and one of the few neighbourhoods in the city where you can find original 19th-century Athenian architecture. To avoid the crowds, head towards Anafiotika, a quiet part of Plaka that resembles a Cycladic island, built by workers from Anafi Island. Alternatively, you can visit Athens’s First Cemetery (Anapafseos Street, Mets,

210-9236118) for a look at its famous 19th-century sculptures decorating the tombs of famous Greeks and philhellenes, like poet and Nobel laureate Yiorgos Seferis and German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann (see relevant entry in The Great Outdoors).

Saturday lunch You will love the delicious casserole dishes (magirefta) are gulped down with red homemade wine at Barbayiannis (94 Emmanuil Benaki Street, Exarhia, 210-3824138), an eatery famous for serving “mum’s cooking” in an unpretentious environment. You will not spend more than 15 Euros per person.

Saturday evening Since you are in Exarhia, why not go for a drink at Kokkinos Lotos (Zoodohou Pigis Street, Exarhia, 210-3801380), a small bar with odd Asian decor where drinks cost no more than 4 Euros and music is great. Close by, is The Drugstore (Corner of Arahovis 10 and Ippokratous Street), a cute bar full of youngsters sipping their drinks for just 3.50 Euros.

Sunday morning, afternoon Pick up a bite from your closest café, pack an extra sandwich and bottled water for your backpack and head towards!

Athens, long coastline and clear waters. Many beaches are run by the country’s Tourism Organisation (EOT) or private individuals and charge an often steep entrance fee, but in there are also beaches open to the general public. Some of them are in Palio Faliro, Alimos and Aghios Kosmas. Take the tram from Syntagma Square and get off at Edem (for Palio Faliro beach), Zefyros (for Alimos beach) or Aghios Kosmas. Avoid the often pricey coffees and toasts of nearby canteens.

Sunday evening After a day at the beach, you’ll need some body fuel. A walk around Thissio will bring you to Filistron (23 Apostolou Pavlou, 210-3467554), a classic mezedopolio with a killer view of the Acropolis from the terrace that will complete your weekend in style.

Other freebies: Some museums offer free entrance on particular weekdays. The Benaki Museum (Main building in Kolonaki) is free on Thursdays, the Islamic Art Museum has free entrance on Wednesdays, the Archaeological Museum is free on May 18th, June 5th, and the last weekend of September. Also, the Cycladic Art Museum charges 3.50 Euros on Mondays.

Full moon events: August 2nd is this year’s midsummer full moon, and Athens celebrates by opening dozens of its most prominent archaeological and cultural sites for free.

For more information click at: www.visitgreece.gr (Calendar events).

The great outdoors

One of the many perks life in Athens provides, is the year-round sunny weather, a feature Athenians take full advantage of. Much of daily life takes place in open spaces: Apart from cafés, bars, restaurants and cinemas, you can see people enjoying the openness out on the pavements, having picnics in parks, overcrowding hills and beaches, stadiums and all sorts of public spaces. Take the time to discover the city’s few green spaces by enjoying a walk through the National Gardens or the Athens Zoo. The small monastery of Kessariani is a true artistic treasure, undiscovered by most tourists. In addition, a visit to Athens’s First Cemetery offers a chance to admire rare 19th century marble sculptures and learn about Greek history. Another option is to join the hordes of city folk who flock to the nearby beaches, or hang out in the southern suburbs of Glyfada and Palio Faliro.

Faliro and Glyfada Starting from Palio Faliro and ending beyond Sounio, the southern Athenian seaside is a sight not to be missed.

Glyfada is good for both swimming and shopping, especially if you wish to take a break from the crowded centre of Athens. The tramline runs along two routes towards the south of the city, one ending in Neo Faliro district (close to Piraeus port) and the other one ending in the quiet suburb of Voula (towards Sounio). In Palio Faliro, the Trocadero park (Tram station: Trocadero) has been spruced up in recent years and is transformed into a meeting place for couples and youngsters taking their leisurely walks around the area. It houses a 40

The Great Outdoors

beautiful open-air cinema, walking designated landscaped areas, some pricy cafés, a restaurant and a few shops selling sports apparel.

If you prefer to head towards Glyfada, you can stop at Alimos Marina for a walk amongst the sleek sailing boats and enjoy a cup of frapuccino, or lunch at the spacious, all-day open venue of Kitchen Bar (3 Posidonos, Kalamaki, 210-9812004). The marina is also home to the nicely-decked Skippers Café-Bar (Pier 1, 210-9880282) originally a hangout for windswept skippers. Taking the tram once again, you can visit the go-kart track of Aghios Kosmas (Tram station: Aghios Kosmas) where you can test your driving skills. On the way you have a chance to choose between plenty of public or private beaches where you can enter for a fee which is higher on the weekends.

Your tram ride ends with a left turn in Glyfada (Tram station: Platia Katraki), a somewhat Americanized neighbourhood where the first shopping centre and fast-food chains appeared in the 80s. Shopping is de rigueur here, with fashionistas visiting the boutiques daily and highend stores spread across the main streets (Angelou Metaxa, Lazaraki and Kyprou.) When you need to take a breather, pop into Vincenzo (1 Yannitsopoulou, Glyfada, tel: 210-8942310, 425), for the best Italian pasta in town. For more restaurants and bars in the area check the relevant Food and Bar sections.

The forest of Tatoi

Lycavittos Hill Athens is really hilly, so there are several points where you can enjoy superb views over the city.

One of them is notably the Acropolis Hill and the other is Lycavittos Hill, a sharply rising limestone rock reaching 277 metres above sea level. The birds-eye-view from the top is amazing and encompasses Mount Parnitha in the north, the Acropolis Hill that crowns the city centre, and an open view to the south all the way to Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf. Perched at the top is the small white-washed church of Aghios Georgios, which is beautifully lit in the evening.

There you can also find the open-air Lycavittos theatre, which hosts various theatre performances and concerts during the summer, or you can visit the classy and pricey Orizontes café-restaurant, where you can enjoy the breathtaking view. The fastest and most hasslefree way to reach the top is to take the two-minute ride up the funicular, from the corner of Kleomenous and Ploutarhou Streets in Kolonaki. If you are set on ascending on foot it’s best to set out from Loukianou Street, but bear in mind that there are no signs with directions.

Kaisariani monastery

The summer palace at Tatoi

Inside the serene forests of Mount Ymittos stands the medieval Kessariani Monastery, built in the 11th century CE. It was named after the Roman Emperor (Kessaras in Greek) Hadrian, who built an aqueduct to

make use of a nearby fresh-water spring. The spring is still found in the courtyard of the monastery, and myth has it that it bears the power of fertility. The church is a domed cruciform type, with its dome resting on four ancient marble Ionic columns. Thankfully, the 16th-century frescoes still survive, and are excellent specimens of the Cretan school of painting. The painting of Madonna holding the baby Jesus contrasts beautifully with its black background, while Christ’s depiction on the dome is considered to be one of the best of its kind. Surrounding the monastery are secondary buildings, such as the residential quarters of the monks, an old bath-house and the kitchens. Southwest of the monastery lie the remains of another church dating from the 10th century.

The view from the hill is stunning. To get there, take bus 224 or 223 from Akadimias Street. There is a two-kilometre walk from the foot of the hill up to the monastery.

Athens First Cemetery (Proto Nekrotafio Athinon) Anapafseos & Trivonianou, Mets, 210-9221621

It may sound like the last place you would visit in any city, but Athens’ First Cemetery, founded around 1837, reveals a fascinating part of the city’s history. Serving as the burial ground for prominent Greeks and philhellenes, this garden-like cemetery is a peaceful place filled with pine and olive trees and well-tended marble graves scattered among them. Strolling among its lanes you come across some lavishly decorated tombstones, revealing the

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

41

excellent quality of Greek 19th-century sculpture, which was influenced by the Romantics, and you get acquainted with the social status of the people buried beneath them.

Many of these monuments are works of well-known sculptors, the most prominent being The Sleeping Maiden, made by Tinian artist Yannoulis Halepas in 1878 for the grave of Sophia Afentaki. The girl’s calm expression and relaxed pose give the impression that she is sleeping. Further along lies a haunting memorial of the 100,000 Greeks who died of hunger during WWII. The grave of actress-turned-politician Melina Mercouri is near the entrance, and among the lanes you can catch a glimpse of the graves of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, Nobel laureate George Seferis, Oscar-winning actress Katina Paxinou, as well as Prime Ministers and heroes of the Greek War of Independence.

The Cemetery is open all day and admission is free.

Athens First Cemetery

Flisvos Marina

A walk around Kastella, Piraeus Piraeus is the biggest port in Greece and is widely known as the gateway to the islands. Much of its old character has disappeared as a result of unchecked development – much like what happened to Athens in general. One of the few neighbourhoods that retain its unique style is Kastella, perched on a hill overlooking Mikrolimano. The bus 040 from Syntagma will drop you at Piraeus’s Municipal Theatre (Thimotiko 42

The Great Outdoors

Theatro). From there take trolley 20 towards Neo Faliro. To start your walk, get off at Naftikos Omilos or Skalakia Station. The winding Papanastasiou Street is dotted with neo-classical listed mansions that escaped the bulldozers.

Epidavrou Street and Pafsilypou Street, both situated below Papanastasiou Street will lead you towards the seaside in Akti Mikrolimanou, filled with cafés and fish tavernas. Piraeus’s Yachting Club (Istioploikos) at one end of Mikrolimano offers coffee and lunch, as well as a great view of Kastella and its buildings.

The best way to enjoy a pleasant stroll around Kastella is to go during the day, before the crowds swarm the seaside and local bars pump up the music volume.

If you’re contemplating a quiet lunch, find the colourful To Limanaki taverna (4 Navarhou Botsi Street, Kastella), a small mezedopolio offering raki (thus called rakomeladiko) - the Cretan equivalent of tsipouro.

Swimming and socializing – Faliro, Alimos, Glyfada, Sounio

Sounio, Temple of Poseidon

Few capitals can boast about their beaches. The prefecture of Attica is blessed with an endless coastline, filled with beaches and small coves waiting to be discovered.

Plan a day at the beach, with only the basics in hand (hat, towel and plenty of sunscreen), but keep in mind those beaches are packed on the weekend, so it’s pref-

erable to go on a weekday. Certain beaches in Alimos, Glyfada, Voula and Varkiza are run by the country’s National Tourist Organization (EOT) and others by private individuals charging an admission fee.

Organised beaches offer umbrellas, deck chairs, changing cabins and selfservice restaurants. If you want to avoid paying the occasionally hefty entry ticket (up to 18 Euros in Vouliagmeni) you can continue further down the road and choose a beach open to all.

If you get off at Edem tram station, you’ll find yourself in the public, long beach of Palio Faliro. Continuing by tram, you reach Alimos (station: Loutra Alimou) and its two beaches: The left one is admissionfree, while the right one named “Blue”, has an entrance fee and a café right on the sand.

Aghios Kosmas is also one of the few remaining beaches where access is free. Gathering young and old alike, it has lifeguard watch, free umbrellas and showers.

To get there, take the tram towards Voula and get off at Aghios Kosmas station. Continuing further, the tram reaches Glyfada (station: Paralia Glyfadas). The beach is a three-minute walk from the main road and it is also admission-free. Further south, the Lake of Vouliagmeni provides an unbeatable experience, as the dark blue water pouring from an underground source is supposed to have healing properties.

Continuing south, you can reach Varkiza town, where locals crowd the pebbled beach, next to a flat-cemented platform, ideally formed for dives.

From there onwards, there’s a series of small

Kaisariani Monastery Kastella

coves and beaches to choose from. As most of these beaches bear no signs, the best way to examine them is to pull over at the side of the road and decide if they are worth a visit. Reaching Sounio you’ll find Legrena beach with its clear blue waters and the view of Poseidon’s Temple in the background.

Note that nudism is not allowed anywhere in those family orientated beaches. However, some of them are often adjacent to smaller and more private ones, and if you visit on a weekday and choose a discreet location you could get away with baring some skin. The easiest way to continue your trip beyond Voula (tram ends there), is to get a taxi or take the E22 bus towards Saronida.

Sounio and the Temple of Poseidon

Lycabetus

The beautiful temple dedicated to sea-god Poseidon is a popular attraction for locals and tourists alike, not only for the well-preserved ancient monument, but also for the clear blue beaches surrounding it and the picture-perfect sunset. The route leading to Sounio is a sight in its own merit, as you drive next to beautiful beaches, coves, small towns and cafés. The temple crowns a 60-metre-high rock and was built in the 5th century BCE, during Pericles’s “Golden Age”. The hill itself won a place in history when according to mythology, king Aegeas jumped to his death from the cliffs believing his son Theseas had died in Crete while trying to kill the Minotaur. The marble temple originally had 34 Doric-style col-

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

43

Swimming pools: If you can’t be bothered to take a bus to the beach, you can always cool down in a pool.

Several central hotels offer deals that include the use of their pool, a lounge chair, drinks at the bar and even a room, though usually at a hefty price.

Hilton.

46, Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, 210-7281000 / Metro: Evangelismos.

For the price of 25 Euros Monday through Friday and 40 Euros on weekends and holidays, you may use the pool and lounging-chairs and be provided with towels as well.

01

Saint George Lycabettus.

2 Kletomenous Street, Kolonaki, 210-7416000 / Metro: Evangelismos.

Houses a colonial-style pool which will set you back 35 Euros; towel, lounger, umbrella and refreshment included.

02

Off the beaten track: A walk in Tatoi

Athens Imperial Hotel.

1 Achilleos & Megalou Alexandrou Street, Karaiskaki Square, 210-5201600 / Metro: Metaxourghio. Use of the pool will cost approximately 25 Euros (price to be finalized in May) including a towel and lounging-chair.

03

Fresh Hotel.

26 Sofokleous Street, 210-5248511 / Metro: Omonia. The pool is quite small, but available daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., for about 20 Euros (price to be finalized in May), plus towel, lounging-chair and a coffee or soda drink.

04

Ledra Marriott.

115 Syngrou Avenue 210-9300000 / Metro: Syngrou-Fix. This hotel allows use of their pool only if you book a room for half a day (from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.). The bill for a room, single or double, climbs to 96 Euros.

05

44

The Good Life

Tatoi, north of Athens

umns, though today only 15 survive. The ideal time to visit is in the evening, when most tourist groups take their leave and the light is soft. Watching the sunset from the cliff and the blue sea underneath is an unforgettable experience. To get there: Take the tram from Syntagma towards Voula, from where it is best to hire a taxi. You can combine Sounio with a swim at nearby Legrena beach and grab a bite at one of the local fish tavernas.

About 15 kilometres north of Athens lies the beautiful forest of Tatoi, a widely unexplored area of Attica. The area housed the summer palace and estate of the former king of Greece Constantine, who was abdicated when monarchy was abolished by plebiscite in December 1974. After a legal settlement with the Greek state, the estate became public property and opened up for visitors.

Walking within the forest you are stunned by the lush vegetation, the small rivers and the 10-meter waterfall, which offers an unparallel sense of serenity and gives you the impression you are miles

away from civilisation.

The water from the river ends up in the flume of Helidonous, creating beautiful scenery.

Apart from admiring the natural surroundings, one can visit the summer residence of the former royal family, the stables, stalls and other buildings. The abandonment is quite evident everywhere, as the place had been locked up for 36 years, but the scenery is unrivalled. The government declared a desire to turn the former royal residence into a museum at some point, but no specific plans have yet been presented.

To get there, you need to rent a car, or hire a taxi. Initially you would reach northern Varibobi suburb and then head towards Katsimidi. About 5 kilometres after the area Thea you reach the estate’s main gate. From there you continue on foot.

Escapes

Nearby Destinations There is an endless variety of destinations to choose from if you feel the city is getting the best of you. The prefecture of Attica where Athens belongs to, is dotted with pine tree forests in the north, while other places of interest are but a short drive or boattrip away. History buffs will enjoy discovering picturesque Nafplion, the first capital of Greece, Marathon, the site of the famous battle of the 5th century BCE and Olympia, home of the first Olympic Games, packed with archaeological treasures. To escape the daily grind, one can also board a ferry to the nearby picturesque islands of Poros, Hydra, Aegina and Spetses.

46

The Good Life

Nafplio

Exhibits at the Marathon Museum

Nafplio, the first capital of Greece The old and picturesque city of Nafplio is one of the top weekend destinations all year round. Situated on a peninsula in the northeastern Peloponnesos, the city was the first capital of the newly established Greek State from 1829 until 1834, when State power was transferred to Athens. The place is ideal for long walks. The town centre is pedestrianized, and all sites, shops, cafés and eateries are within walking distance from each other. Approaching through the national motorway, Nafplio’s outer suburbs look quite unimpressive; one might wonder what the fuss is about. However, as you head towards the old town, the cityscape improves dramatically.

The main Syntagma Square, surrounded by hundred-year-old buildings, is paved with

marble and is the best starting point for a walk round the streets. One of the outer walls in the Church of Aghios Spyridonas still bears the mark of the bullet that killed the country’s first Governor, Ioannis Kapodistrias. On the seaside road people stroll in the afternoon and rest on a bench to enjoy the sunset. It is lined with restaurants and cafés and has a clear view of the islet of Bourtzi, with its 15th-century Venetian fortifications. The best panorama of the town, however, is undoubtedly offered by the Palamidi fortress, another Venetian work of 1714. Unless you’re in top shape and hell-bent on climbing the 999 steps that lead to the entrance, it’s advisable to hire a taxi to take you to the top of the hill and spare you the heart attack. The vista however is glorious and worth every step.

Book a room in the beautiful Byron Hotel (2 Platonos, Nafplio, 27520 22351 / www.

byronhotel.gr), situated in the old town and close to everything.

Another good choice is the Allotino Pension (19 Vasileos Kontantinou, +27520 96150-1 / www. allotino-pension.gr).

The best food in town is served in the taverna O Psiras (5 Porou, Pronoia, Nafplio), where locals eat. They serve all Greek dishes, but specialise in grilled meat.

Getting there: Hourly service by KTEL coach (long-distance) from Terminal A (100 Kifissou Street).

Fight your way to Marathon This battleground to one of the most famous military confrontations in history is only 40 kilometres northeast of Athens.

The battle of Marathon, which took place in 490 BCE and was documented by historian Herodotus, is where the outnumbered Athenian

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

47

army defeated the attacking Persian army, blocking their advance towards Athens. On your way to the historic site you will pass the artificial Lake Marathon and its dam, built between 1925 and 1929 to supply Athens with much-needed fresh water. Right next to the dam is the old cafĂŠ-restaurant To Fragma, with perfect view of the Lake.

Reaching Marathon, you will see the 10-metre-high hill where the 192 Athenians who died in battle were buried.

About two kilometres from that spot is the Archaeological Museum (114 Plateon Street, 48

The Good Life

Vranas, Marathonas, 22940-55155). It’s worth the visit, as it houses Neolithic finds from the surrounding area, tomb stelae and dedicatory inscriptions. Marathon also gave its name to the endurance run included in the Olympic Games. According to the legend, when the battle ended, a soldier named Phedippedes run the distance back to Athens non-stop to announce the Athenian victory, after which he collapsed and died of exhaustion.

To get there, take a KTEL coach from Mavromateon Street in Pedion tou Areos (210-8210872). Coaches

leave every hour and drop you off close to the site.

Marathon site and its Museum are open Tuesdays through Sundays between 8.30 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Let the Games begin - Olympia The small city and its historic site are slowly recovering since their narrow escape from the devastating wildfires of 2007, which burnt the surrounding lush pine forests to a cinder. The fires consumed Kronios Hill, the point where rivers Kladeos and Alfeios

branch off, which was considered to be a holy site in antiquity. The modern city of Olympia is a bland and uninteresting small town with the usual souvenir shops and tavernas, but the ancient city is nothing short of impressive. Better known as the venue of the first Olympic Games in 776 BCE, it continued to stage the games every four years for the coming ten centuries, until Romans banned the practice.

The old city was an important sanctuary, and a wide range of religious and secular buildings are now scattered around the

Ancient Olympia

site. One such building is the Temple of Zeus, built between 470 and 456 BCE, which reportedly housed the 12-metre-tall gold and ivory Statue of Zeus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The complex includes an ancient stadium of 212 metres long and 30 metres wide, which is believed to have accommodated 45,000 seated spectators.

The Archaeological Museum of Olympia (Ancient Olympia, 2624022742) showcases some of the most important archaeological findings in Greece, including a world-famous collection

of sculptures and a wide range of copper and terracotta objects. Among its treasures is sculptor Praxitelis’s masterpiece Hermes, his only surviving original work, chiselled out of marble in 343 BCE. The almostalive marble statue of Nike of Paionios, the work of Paionios, depicts a winged woman and is dedicated to the victors of a 421 BCE battle. You can also find a large collection of imposing helmets and the sculptured ornaments from the frieze of the Temple of Zeus.

Getting there: Take a KTEL coach from Kifissos main bus sta-

tion (Tel: 210-5134110, 210-5124910) or an OSE train (Tel: 210-5297777).

Olympia lies 320 kilometres from Athens.

Accomodation: Hotel Pelops (2 Varela Street, Ancient Olympia, +26240 22543 / www.hotelpelops.gr ), Olympion Asty (Ancient Olympia, Elia Hellas, +26240 23665-7 / www. olympionasty.gr).

Jump in the boat! Aegina & Poros The Saronic islands of Aegina and Poros are so close to the capital, they

are practically considered city suburbs. Poros is a quiet little place with a picturesque port lined with neoclassical architectural type houses whose stonewalls contrast with the fuchsia of flowering bougainvilleas. The island’s highlights include the clock tower that stands proud from the port’s hill, as well as the lemon tree forest in Galatas village. Poros features beautiful sandy beaches of Mikro Neorio, Love Bay and Russian Bay, named after the first Russian ships which arrived to assist the Greeks against the Ottoman Turks during the Greek War of

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

49

Clockwise from left: reaching the port of Poros, swimmers in Hydra, the Poseidonion in Spetses, the port o f Hydra.

Independence in the 19th century. Unlike other islands, Poros is livelier during the daytime, making it ideal for those who want to escape city noise and relax. For accommodation, book a room at Manessi Hotel (Poros town, 22980-22273) Aegina’s proximity to the capital - only 40 minutes away from Piraeus - has made it a permanent home for many Athenians who want to escape the smog and noise of the city. The islands’ main attraction is the well-preserved Temple of Aphaia, built around 500 BCE and dedicated to the mystic mermaid goddess Aphaia, and the on-site museum. After your visit to the Temple, head for a swim to Aghia Marina, Kima or Perdika.

50

The Good Life

You cannot leave Aegina without trying its famed pistachios (fistikia) from trees cultivated on the island, which you can find in many shops on the main port.

Hotel Brown (Aegina Town, 22970-22271) is a modern hotel near the town centre. Getting there: Ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans leave Piraeus several times a day.

You can buy your ticket online (see transport section below) and in any travel agency in Athens or Piraeus.

Chic Hydra Island Loved by jet-setters, classy Hydra Town mercifully escaped the “development pro-

jects” of the 60s and the 70s which plagued other nearby islands and is today a beautifully preserved town, filled with 19th-century, soft-coloured mansions and stone-paved narrow alleyways. Hydra’s history and development was driven primarily by maritime trade, which created immense wealth for its social elite, and secondly by the Hydriots’ involvement in the Greek War of Independence during the 19th century.

Thankfully, vehicles are not allowed in this island, making it an ideal place to relax and stroll around. Hydra is not known for its sandy beaches, but the clear blue waters compensate for the rocky coasts. The main beaches are Aghios

Nicolaos, Avlaki, Vlyhos, Spilia and can be reached by sea taxis found at the main port, while the rocks of Hydroneta are perfect for those who want to spend some time away from the crowds.

There are many ways to spend your days. Places of interest include the 19th-century monastery of Profitis Elias, the area of Kiafa and the mansion of 19th-century politician George Kountouriotis that now houses the island’s History Museum. There’s also the village of Kaminia and Vlichos where you can go either by water taxi.

Hydra’s has a rather limited nightlife, but you won’t be deprived of a refreshing drink at sunset. The place to be is Hydra town, with

Omilos bar-restaurant (22980-53800) being a favourite for those who want to start with dinner and carry on with drinks.

At Sunset Hydra (2298052067) you will enjoy the large servings of salads and seafood pasta as much as the view, and at Enalion (22980-53455), an open-air taverna at

Vlychos village, you will dine right on the beach.

The island’s culinary experience is heightened in the hidden Italian trattoria Caprice (2298052454), famous for its really thin pizzas. For a nightcap, seek fun at the established bars of Amalour and Piratis, all at Hydra Town.

Accomodation: Hydra Hotel (22980 53420) sets the bar pretty high for all boutique hotels with its immaculate rooms, maisonettes and studios and its killer view. The traditional stone mansion of Hotel Mistrial (2298052509/53411) is fully equipped and only three minutes from the port.

Miranda Hotel (2298052230) is a restored old mansion providing excellent home cooked breakfast.

Getting there: There are regular, daily hydrofoil, catamaran and ferry services from Piraeus.

You can buy your ticket online (see transport section below) or in any travel agency around Athens or Piraeus.

Spetses: An Athenian getaway Spetses is the alter ego of Hydra, and the last of the cluster of islands that speckle the ArgoSaronic Gulf. Located off the eastern peninsula of Peloponnesos, it used to be covered with pine trees, till recent summer wildfires left a great part of the island burnt.

Like Hydra, it is a very popular destination for trendy weekenders; with its unique architecture, stone mansions and cobbled alleyways.

Cars are not allowed here, but you can hire a motorbike or a bicycle to get around. Romantics opt for the horse-drawn

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

51

carriages that can take you from the port of Dapia to the Old Port.

Spetses’ trendy yet classy profile derives from its history as it was home to many noblemen, politicians and heroes of the Greek War of Independence, but also from the long list of international celebrities who have visited the island throughout the years. The island’s rich history is adequately presented in the Historical Museum, once the home of the 19th-century powerful lord Hatzighiannis Mexis, as well as in the imposing mansion of Lascarina Bouboulina, a heroine of the War of Independence. There you can admire the woodcut Florentine ceilings, some original furniture, as well as a collection of her personal belongings and letters.

Spetses has few beaches, so the best idea is to walk west of Dapia and discover the cove that tickles your fancy. You may also hire a water taxi to take you to some of the better known beaches, such as Vrellos and Aghii Anarghiri. However, even in Dapia you can see people diving off its cement platforms.

There’s a wide selection for wining and dining in Spetses. To Nero tis Agapis (‘Love’s Water’) in Kounoupitsa (2298074009) west of Dapia, offers a modern take on seafood dinning as well as other Greek and international dishes on its white-and-lime-coloured linen. Other great seafood options include Tarsanas (22980-73490), whose owners prepare and serve their own daily catch, Trehadiri (22980-29413) on the Old Port, and Patralis (22980-75380 and -72134) located west of Dapia, on the road to Ligoneri. Located in a beau52

The Good Life

tiful 19th-century building that used to house the old Port Authority, Orloff restaurant (22980-75255) towers over the road leading to the Old Port and offers traditional snacks mezedes and seafood.

Book ahead if you plan to visit during the weekend.

Spetsiots know how to party after dark and visitors can head towards the Old Port where cocktails are served to sunburned clientele crammed onto the pavements outside Throubi, Bracherra and Fortezza.

Highly recommended

places of accomodation include the impeccable Orloff Resort (Old Harbour, 22980-75444-5 / www.orloffresort.com), a luxurious mansion boasting old-school charm and cool design. In Dapia, Armata Boutique Hotel (Dapia, 22980 72683 / www.armatahotel.gr) is a beautifully renovated residence and a two-minute walk from the port.

Shops are mainly located at the harbour of Dapia, where you can buy anything from amigdalota (marzipan sweets), to swimsuits, crafts and

home products. For sweets, try amidgalota from Politis (Dapia), and then visit The Closet (Dapia, behind Roli Square), a small boutique filled with pareos, sandals, houseware and linen. On the Deck (Dapia) offers several brands’ apparel for men and women.

Getting there: There are regular, daily hydrofoil, catamaran and ferry services from Piraeus.

You can buy your ticket online (see transport section below) or visit any travel agency located in Athens and Piraeus.

Far above: Snapshots from Poros. Above: The temple o Afaia in Aegina.

The good life

Shopping Austerity has hit the Greek retail sector hard with hundreds of small stores having closed down as a result of dwindling revenues. Stores in Athens in particular, have also had to suffer the effects of some violent incidents during numerous anti-austerity demonstrations. Having said this, Athenians are shop addicts and a simple walk around the city will reveal some new trends in retail, like sales on selected items, even of the same season. Each area of Athens specialises in different kinds of shops so it all depends on what you’re looking for. The best way to discover the city’s treasures is to begin by exploring each area separately. If you’re looking for souvenirs and gifts to take home, popular Greek craftwork like leather sandals, copies of museum pieces, quirky stuff like lucky charms, or even antiques, Plaka and the flea markets of Monastiraki and Thissio are the places to go. These neighbourhoods form the backbone of the “old city” and are mainly lined with touristy shops selling clothes, replicas of famous Greek statues, local products like soap and sandals, jewellery and other Greek craft. Stores in these areas stay open until late.

Ermou Street, starting south of Syntagma Square, is the city’s main shopping street, lining everything from international chain stores like Zara, Marks & Spencer and H&M to smaller shops selling more unique items.

Ermou and its side streets is also where most shoe-stores are. There you can find both Greek and international brands.

If high fashion is your passion, Voukourestiou Street is the big-spender’s pedestrian paradise. It is home to many luxury brands like Tod’s, Prada and Louis Vuitton, as well as expensive jewellery stores. Continue walking on Voukourestiou towards Academias Street and you’ll find yourself in posh Kolonaki, an area where upmarket stores interchange with chic cafés and restaurants.

Those who want to familiarise themselves with cur54

The Good Life

rent trends in Greek music or literature, should head towards Panepistimiou Street (also called Venizelou Street), where most major bookstores and music chains are located. Look for Eleftheroudakis and Papasotiriou bookstores, both of which have a fine selection of translated Greek literature, as well as sections of foreign books. Further down Panepistimiou, there is Metropolis and Music Corner, one of the few music shops that have survived the tsunami of internet downloading.

Ask for the staff’s suggestions on Greek music. Greek music has evolved in fascinating ways in the past decade and apart from the recognisable bouzouki music, you can find anything from electronic, entekhna (modern “art songs”), rap and hip-hop, old and modern laika (popular songs) and old rebetica (the Greek equivalent of the blues).

Some of the legendary composers of rebetica include Vassilis Tsitsanis, Giorgos Zambetas and Stelios Vamvakaris. In entekhna music, apart from the famous composer Manos Hatzidakis, look for artists Dimitra Galani, Lena Platonos, Haris Alexiou, Alkinoos Ioannidis, Savina Yannatou and Elli Paspala. In electronic music, Konstantinos Beta is a Greek success story with his soundtrack for Dimitris Papaioannou’s theatrical dance choreography “2” - among others - having won critical acclaim. The deep, charismatic voice of Monica has shot her into the limelight, resulting in sold

Souvenirs from Greece

out concerts. Hip-Hop artists Stavento, Imiskoubria, Active Member and Terror X Crew have put the genre on the map, while Stereo Nova, Goin’ through, Envus and Gelly Groove are the new techno bands. Artists of modern laika – popular in nightclubs and often mixed with beat and Anatolian sounds – include Elli Kokinou, Peggy Zena and Antonis Remos.

Away from the city centre, Glyfada and Kifissia are two suburbs that attract shoppers. You can go there by tram or train respectively. Kifissia is a leafy, affluent suburb north of the city, with beautiful boutiques and classy shopping centres, catering to an eclectic clientele. Heading south by tram you can reach Glyfada, a somewhat Americanised suburb with a multitude of shops with fashionable and trendy apparel and a wide range of eateries and pastry shops.

Stores operate at irregular hours and many close at midday, to reopen in the afternoon. As a general rule, stores are open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Monday and Wednesday and from 9 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and from 5.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. On Saturday the stores are open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. but they are all closed on Sunday. In touristy areas such as Plaka and Monastiraki, many shops stay open until 9 p.m., while department stores are open all day long (from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday).

Acropolis, Plaka & Monastiraki In the flea markets and stores of Monastiraki and Thissio you can find all sorts of oddities, one of which is matia (eyes) used as a protection against the evil eye.

Added in key chains, necklaces, lucky charms or sold separately, the blue “eye” is a perky gift appreciated by superstitious friends and folklore art lovers alike.

The flea market of Monastiraki is lined with shops that stock on all types of antiques from furniture to glassware.

Avissynia Square and the surrounding area is the place to hunt for old wooden chairs, glassware and silverware, as well as other nick-knacks that will add charm and character to your house. The basic rule for successful flea-market shopping is to come early, as the good stuff is bought up quickly.

Another perennial summer trend is the leather sandals, a beloved shopping item for both men and women. Monastiraki and Psyrri are the ultimate sandal markets, located across and to the left of the train station “Monastiraki”.

Krokos 6 Vironos Street & Vakhou Street, Plaka, 2103313509 / Metro: Acropolis A new and well-informed fine food and wine shop where you can buy traditional Greek products, like egg-pasta, cracked wheat (trahanas), herbs for cooking and drinking, as well as a small selection of cheeses and cold cuts. The Greek saffron, known as krokos Kozanis, which also gives its name to the shop, is also sold, either separately or as an ingredient in herbal beverages.

01

Lesvos shop 33 Athinas Street, Monastiraki, 210-3217395 / Metro: Monastiraki In the old days, soap was made of olive oil, instead of chemicals. In this store you’ll find the old olive soaps and a bucket load of products from the famed island of Lesvos. You will also find traditional products from Lesvos, like fruit preserves (gliko tou koutaliou), ouzo and cheese, all of which would make great gifts.

02

Melissinos art 2 Agias Theklas Street, Psyrri, 210-3219247 /Metro: Monastiraki Start your search here, where traditional Greek sandals are sold by the poet and sandal-maker Stavros Melissinos since 1927. According to Melissinos, his VIP customers include Peter O’Toole - who apparently wore his sandals in a play as well as Barbra Streisand and Sophia Loren. Each 03

Melissinos Sandals

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

55

Zara Home

Yiorgos Eleftheriades

Kolonaki & Lycavittos Hill

Art Shop

If you like contemporary fashion, Kolonaki is the place for you. The great thing about the area is that you can alternate shopping with coffee breaks in any of the zillion cafés you spot on your way. Your steps will unavoidably bring you to Tsakalof Street, aka the “catwalk”, named after its strategically placed cafés, packed with trendy people in shades, watching you go by. You can use the Syntagma or Evangelismos metro stations to get to Kolonaki.

Shop & Trade

Natura 21 Irodotou Street, 210-3615494, 210-7241777 In this shop you can find top-quality cosmetic body products, white cotton accessories and slippers.

01

type of sandals has its own name, often taken from the celebrity that chose it –the Jackie O sandals are very classy, of course.

Davos active 4 Athinas Street, Monastiraki, 210-3214303 / Metro: Monastiraki Everything you ever needed for your camping trip is here. Tents, sleeping bags, carry-mats, flashlights, mosquito repellents, sports gear, backpacks, and outerwear, they are displayed in two storeys and pointed out by very helpful staff.

04

Ges shoes 21 Ifaistou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3235505 / Metro: Monastiraki A large variety of colourful leather sandals is neatly hung from the walls waiting for you to try them on.

Prices depend on the type of leather and style of the sandals. Open until 10 p.m.

05

Kokka shoes 6 Monastiraki Square, Monastiraki, 210-3242001 / Metro: Monastiraki An endless variety of 06

56

The Good Life

sandals, ranging from plain leather flip-flops to the gladiator style which has been very popular the past few years. Remember that the natural light colour of leather sandals darkens with use, so don’t bother buying the brown ones. Depending on the style and quality, leather sandals’ cost ranges between 20-30 Euros. Open until 10 p.m.

Mousika organa Samouelian 36 Ifaistou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3212433 / Metro: Monastiraki If spending time in Athens has made you a bouzouki fan, head to these makers of Greek hand-made musical instruments. Practise on the traditional bouzouki and ask to see the small baglamadaki with its unique sound.

07

Shop & Trade 112A Ermou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3231683 / Metro: Monastiraki This is a large multi-label store in the Urban Outfitters spirit. Here you can find 08

brands like Aniye By, Liu Jo, Ben Sherman, RA.RE, Nolita, Collage Social, D.E.P.T., Gusto Barcelona and many more. There is also trendy jewellery and stylish bags to match. A must for any self-respecting fashion animal.

Achillion 83 Adrianou Street, 210-3221265/ Metro: Syntagma Among the soft-leather multi-stripped flat sandals in tan and the classic Greekstyle sandals that tie up in the middle of your calf, you will probably have to try on 10 pairs before you decide which one is your favourite.

09

The Last Unicorn 59 Adrianou Street, Plaka, 210-3232647/ Metro: Syntagma Here you will find all sorts of old goodies like vinyl records, plastic toys from the 70s and the 80s, as well as medium-sized posters of the Soviet era. There is also a small collection of old editions of books in French and German.

10

Zara Home 19a Irodotou Street, 210-7232877 The full deco collection of the famous budget brand is in display in this 3 storey building.

02

Observatory 9, Solonos Street, Kolonaki, 210-3646910 With its slanted roof and wooden features, this upmarket six-storey boutique is really standing out. Various styles of womenswear and menswear, ranging from casual to dressy ones are found on its storeys. The brands of the clothes, accessories and shoes include Marc Jacobs, Stella Mc Cartney, Costume National, Elie Tahari, Kooba, Modern Amusement, Atsuro Tayama and Ted Baker.

03

Louisa 17 Skoufa Street, 2103635600 Louisa’s clothes racks are packed with high-end designer items from Chloe and Missoni to Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs. Very expensive, very fashionable.

04

To Pekhnidi (the toy) 12 Solonos Street, 2103631652 This toy store has been selling wooden toys and cardboard games since 1978.

05

Deus Hommes 06 18 Kanari Street, 2103614155 This Greek duo of designers makes original and cuttingedge clothes.

Parthenis 07 20 Dimokritou Street & Tsakalof Street, 2103633158 Greek designer Parthenis is known for his signature understated style clothes.

Prasini 7-9 Tsakalof Street, 210-3641590 Reasonably priced shoes can be found here, most of which are made in Greece.

There is also a small selection of bags and belts to choose from.

08

has evolved through her 50-year career. If you are looking for something cheaper, opt for the beautiful clay insects (bees, ladybugs) in geometrical shapes and intense colours that have been a big hit.

Christakis 11 5 Kriezotou Street, Kolonaki, 21003613030 One of the oldest names in menswear, Christakis makes impeccable sur mesure shirts that will make you look like George Clooney.

1900 35 Ypsilantou Street & Ploutarchou Street, Kolonaki, 210-7220511 / Metro: Evangelismos If, looking at your reflection in the squeaky clean windows of boutiques in Kolonaki, you decide you need a haircut, head to this old-school barber shop, 12

where the service is as good as its classic décor. Sit back on the massive leather chair and enjoy a perfect haircut in a 1940s surrounding.

Art Shop 61 Dinocratous street, 210-7218933 A “secret” concept store with a fantastic collection of art objects and more.

13

iStorm 19-20 Kolonaki Square, 211-9997590 Numerous fans of Apple find here all their beloved products – iPhones, iPads, iPods, iMacs and iEverything.

14

Vassilis Zoulias 30 Akadimias Street & Lycavittou Street, 2103389924 The Greek designer Vassilis Zoulias loves the 40s and the 50s and his collections of silk and taffeta dresses 15

will make you look like you just walked out of a WWII movie set. His lime-coloured boutique also houses a beautiful collection of highheeled sandals, bags and chic ballerinas.

Kombologaki 6 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki, 210-3624267 The Greek classic, worry beads or komboloi made of plastic, amber or coral beads is sold in most touristy shops you’ll come across in Plaka and Monastiraki, but if you’re serious about getting a decent one, you have to visit Kombologaki. Mainly held by men, komboloi is supposed to relieve the bearer from stress and help keep his hands busy. Ask them to show you how to play with it.

16

17

Tsaina 9 Lycavittou Street,

Thiros 21 Pindarou Street, 210-3628445 Quality Greek leather bags are just a five-minute walk away from Kolonaki Square. Check out the casual leather cross-body bags in trendy colours, or the classic medium-sized bags to fit your work folders.

09

ADC Vernardaki 4 Valaoritou Street, Kolonaki Pottery has been practised in Greece since antiquity, but there’s nothing antiquated about the super stylish pottery of the well known artist Eleni Vernardaki. Her ADC store showcases hand-made items of exquisite forms and modern designs. Her vases are lean, with bold colours such as white, black and red and organic shapes. There’s a variety of small and large plates, both ornamental and for everyday use. The oversized cups, sugar bowls and teapots will catch your eye with their bold colour and unique shape. If you have money to spend, don’t hesitate to get the whole tea set or a set of vases to place on your shelf. All-time classics include the ornamental pieces, like her signature white doves, whose shape 10

All-including kiosks: Kiosks (periptero) were established by the state as a gift to enable WWII veterans to make a living. Since then, they’ve morphed into mini markets and information booths, present in every neighbourhood and often open 24/7. You might think these two-by-two metallic boxes cannot contain much, but you’re wrong: There’s everything from bottled water, sodas and cigarettes, to international press, biscuits and condoms.

Other useful knick-knacks to be found in kiosks are batteries, cigars, photographic films, chewing gums, chocolates, lighters, packaged fruit juices and chips. In touristy areas they also sell kitschy souvenirs. There’s one near Omonia Square that specialises in, well, leather belts, and another that sells plastic sunglasses. You get the point. Their ever-present owners –or employees –are the persons to ask for info such as street names and directions. The ones on Syntagma Square and Thissio stay open all night, while the kiosk at the corner of Kanari Street & Patriarchou Ioakeim Street in Kolonaki has the most comprehensive list of international magazines and newspapers. Bear in mind that some kiosks close to touristy sites inflate the price of bottled water, so make sure you have bought some before you get there.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

57

Sample the natural (boodness) of Korres products in this fantastic store in-store, as well as in pharmacies around the city.

Below shoes from Kalogirou.

Kolonaki 210-3648355 / Metro: Evangelismos Over a hundred tea varieties to choose from and all tea paraphernalia are found here. Tea lovers can also find the famous combinations of the French company Palais des Thes.

Euxes 18 23, Alopekis Street, 210-7228715, http://www. efxes.gr/index.php/en/ , email: euxeshop@otenet.gr Are you thinking of having your wedding or christening in Greece? Euxes (pronounced Efches) is the store to visit. Since 1996, Euxes has specialised in bridal and christening accessories, made of the finest eco-friendly materials, like linen, cotton and silk. Choose from a wide range of styles and materials for your dream wedding sweet-boxes, hair accessories, or cute, hand-embroidered children’s clothes.

Kalogirou 4 Patriarchou Ioakeim Street, Kolonaki Square, 210-7228804 / Metro: Syntagma This is where Carrie Bradshaw would buy shoes from if she lived in Athens. Any questions?

19

58

The Good Life

Degustation 5 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki square, 2103627744 A well-established deli with a comprehensive stock of gourmet products. There are delicacies prepared and brought in from Greece and Italy. If Mediterranean cuisine is your favourite, make a stop.

20

Maison Du Fromage 10 Kapsali Street, Kolonaki, 210-7248101 As the name suggests, this is mainly a house of cheese, both Greek and French, although you can also find foie-gras and smoked salmon. If your cholesterol levels allow it, you will be spoilt for choice.

21

Les Connoisseurs 23 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7239195 Rare cheeses, wines, champagnes, unique teas, spirits, pastas and delicacies from all over Greece and Europe, are waiting for you to taste them, whether you are a connoisseur or not.

22

Yiorgos Eleftheriades 38 Pindarou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3615278 / Metro: Evangelismos One of the most promising 23

Greek designers, he creates edgy, contemporary menswear and womenswear with soft fabrics.

Fanourakis 23 Patriarchou Ioakeim Street, Kolonaki, 2107211762 There are quite a few good jewellery makers in Athens and this is one of the most prominent. He has earned his reputation with his unrivalled skill in capturing details in gold, creating insects and flowers that seem as good as alive. The red and electric blue poppies are masterpieces and so are the rings. Their prices are steep but the items are unique.

24

Sotris 41 Voukourestiou Street, Kolonaki, 2103610662 / Metro: Syntagma Greek and international luxury brands under one roof. Sotris has made a name for cutting edge fashion.

25

Folli-Follie 25 Solonos Street, Kolonaki, 210-3632487 / 6 Tsakalof Street, Kolonaki, 210-3613983 For cheaper, yet great jewellery, check this Greek chain store. It has a wide selection of silver, gold and platinum 26

items, as well as bulgy jewellery with semi-precious stones. Add to that a classic collection of leather and fabric bags and colourful shawls and you have a onestop-shop for accessorising an evening outing.

Apivita 26 Solonos Street, Kolonaki, 210-3640760 Another Greek success story, Apivita also uses plant extracts to create its products.

Apivita’s instant avocado hair mask is great for nourishing dehydrated hair and the very useful chamomile face tissues are essential for the long boat trip to the islands. Apivita’s shampoos are its strength, and you’ll love the face masks in their flat packaging, perfect for shoving into your suitcase.

27

Fresh Line 10 Skoufa Street, Kolonaki, 210-3644015 If size - and weight - matters, go to Fresh Line where face and body products are sold by weight. A maker of herbal products since 1992, Fresh Line boasts an impressive variety of fresh beauty products made with loads of imagination. The “breakfast buffet” offers a strawberry marmalade bath which looks 28

delicious enough to eat.

Everything is made in-store and comes with a short expiry date.

Kafekoption Miseyannis 7 Leventi Street, 2107210036 As soon as you turn from Anagnostopoulou Street into Leventi Street, your nose immediately catches a whiff of fresh-ground coffee. Choose your favourite variety and have it ground on the spot, or buy one of its specialty teas and Chinese pots to match.

29

Corda Antiques 30 8 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7216792 If you’re looking for selected 19th-20th century items and you’re into the Versailles look, this is your store. It showcases a large collection of French crystal chandeliers, baroque mirrors, candle sticks, clocks mainly gathered from England and France. Among other high-end brands you’ll find Christofle silverware and Baccarat crystals.

31

Carouzos 14 Patriarchou

Ioakeim Street, Kolonaki, 210-7245873 / Metro: Evangelismos Big-name international brands are nicely hung from the hangers and you are left with hard decisions, such as having to choose between an Ermenegildo Zegna suit and a Donna Karan dress.

Syntagma Mastiha Shop 6 Panepistimiou Street & Kriezotou Street, Syntagma, www.mastihashop. com / Metro: Syntagma The ultimate place for all mastiha lovers, this trendy store sells Chios Island’s top export in a multitude of variations and products.

The store is a treasure for those who want to add a new ingredient in their daily food. The island’s mastiha producers initiated the idea, claiming the tree’s resin has medical properties and could prove beneficial in a multitude of edibles. There’s of course mastiha chewing gum (brands Elma and Korres), mastiha desert or ipovrihio (submarine), and 01

mastiha drink, but the mastic tree’s resin is also added to biscuits, coffee, Turkish delights, thin sweet pies, fruit preserves and cakes.

Favourites also include the sesame and honey bars (pasteli), marzipan biscuits and…uh...toothpaste.

Unique drinks are also sold, like soumada, liqueur with mastiha and wine. You can also find cosmetic products with mastiha, from the Greek brand Korres, as well as packaged goods for presents.

Society For The Education Of Greek Women 3 Kolokotroni Street, Syntagma, 210-3239693 / Metro: Panepistimio Hidden in Kolokotroni Arcade, off Kolokotroni Square, the Society for the Education of Greek Women is a jewel of a store that sells Greek hand-made embroidery. The Society was founded in 1872 to educate young girls and provide employment to destitute women. Tablecloths and napkins made by top quality white and beige linen are knitted with detailed floral 02

motifs and vivid colours.

The store is one of the last preserving the fast disappearing art of embroidery and is a must for those looking for original items.

Materials For Crafts Karayiorgi Servias Street, later renamed Perikleous Street and later Athinaidos Street Starting from Syntagma Square, Karayiorgi Servias Street (which has been later renamed twice!) is packed with old shops selling materials which are ideal for fans of crafting, like knitting, sewing, and jewellery making. The shops named here are only indicative, as walking down the street towards Monastiraki you will encounter many more stores of the kind. Stefos & Co (40 Perikleous Street & Thiseos Street, 210-3233945) has an amazing variety of colourful semi-precious stones, gold and silver fittings and threads.

03

Vanity 34 Ermou Street, Syntagma, 210-3236743 / Metro: Syntagma Trendy clothes like American Vintage, Brand, 04

Manoush and Celia D., plus shoes and gorgeous leather bags. Don’t forget to check out the jewellery hanging from the pegs over the till.

Ianos Bookstore 05 24 Stadiou Street, Syntagma, 210-3217810 / Metro: Panepistimio A modern, all encompassing bookstore, where you can find maps, guidebooks and literature, among many other things. You can sit at one of the tables and read peacefully. No one will bother you. If you fancy a drink, you can take your book on the first floor where the café is located and ask about any happenings that might be on in the evening.

Eleftheroudakis Bookstore 11 Panepistimiou Street, Syntagma, 210-3314180 / Metro: Syntagma Recently relocated to a new building, Eleftheroudakis showcases the largest collection of English language books on literature, science, poetry, design, history, economy, archaeology and art. It also includes books in Spanish, French and Italian.

There is also a café corner 06

at the entrance where you can read your books while enjoying an espresso and a broccoli and cheese tart.

Compendium Bookstore 5 Nikodimou Street & Nikis Street, Syntagma, 2103221248 / Metro: Syntagma Foreigners love to browse on English language books.

You’ll find travel books and guides, academic books, maps and even a second hand section on its shelves.

07

Lalaounis 6 Panepistimiou Street, Syntagma, 210-3611371 / Metro: Syntagma Luxurious creations are inspired by ancient patterns as found in Neolithic, Mycenaean, Byzantine and pre-Colombian art. The hand-made jewellery is made employing old techniques, resulting in gorgeous bracelets and necklaces.

08

City Link Block within Panepistimiou, Voukourestiou, Stadiou and Amerikis streets / Metro: Syntagma The City Link block, enclosed within Panepistimiou, Voukourestiou, Stadiou and Amerikis streets is the 09

big spender’s playground.

The old 19th century building of the Army Share Fund has transformed into a modern complex which houses luxury brands, urban cafés, a bank, a sports centre and even exhibitions. Attica department store is a one-stop-shop for men and women alike, selling clothes, accessories, cosmetics and home equipment. On Stadiou’s side you’re blown away by the flashy Ferregamo, D&G and Bally window displays, while Voukourestiou keeps you on the same level with Hermes, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tous.

Mastiha on the rocks: The unique mastic tree of Chios Island in the eastern Aegean produces mastiha, the gummy resin dripping from the tree. It’s used to make mastiha drink, as well as the sticky white ipovrihio (submarine) desert, a spoonful of mastiha dipped in water, but it’s also added in a wide range of products, such as coffee and biscuits. Nowadays, mastiha drink is taking over as the digestif of choice in funky restaurants and tavernas. Its sweet flavour makes it ideal after a long meal. It’s served cold and straight like a shot. Some restaurants offer it as a complementary drink, but even if they don’t you may ask for a glass of cold mastiha. Another great way to enjoy it in a bar is to order it with crushed ice. You can buy it from any shop selling alcohol, supermarkets, or go straight to the source at Mastiha Shop (6 Panepistimiou Street, Synagma, 210-3632750 / www.mastihashop.com / Metro: Syntagma).

60

The Good Life

The complex is populated throughout the day, thanks to the right mixture of offices, cafés and theatres created inside. Zonar’s café is there and so is historic Pallas theatre, a grandiose venue hosting theatrical and dance events. Through the arcades you enter the atrium where you’ll find a cigar store, the Montblanc store and a trendy caférestaurant. City Link also houses the Holmes Place gym for those determined to keep fit.

Korres Attica department store, 7 Panepistimiou Street, 211-1802500 / 8 Ivikou Street, Pangrati, 210-7560600 / Also found in most pharmacies / Metro: Syntagma White tea cleanser? Watermelon for sunscreen? These and many more mixtures are made by Greek cosmetic brand Korres whose natural products have taken the market by storm. Try Korres’ amazing yogurt cooling gel, which is exactly what your skin wants after a day of sunbathing. Another favourite is Korres’ watermelon sunscreen that really makes you smell like you rubbed watermelon on your skin. Its jasmine line – shower gel and body lotion – will remind you of Greece every time you use them.

10

Be Seen 44 Akadimias Street, Panepistimio, 210-3620044 / Metro: Panepistimio Contemporary brands of eyewear for stylish outings.

11

12

Bournazos 15 Ermou Street, Syn-

tagma, 210-255580 / Metro: Syntagma Good quality leather shoes in reasonable prices and a wide variety.

Omonia & inner city Metropolis 64 Panepistimiou Street, Omonia, 2103830804 / Metro: Omonia There’s a wide range of Greek and international music of every type, but the store in number 64 specialises in local music.

Ask the staff to guide you through the various artists and genres. Choose your favourite ones among rebetica as well as entekhna (greek art songs).

01

In Music Corner 56 Panepistimiou Street, Omonia, 2103304000 / Metro: Omonia Here you can find an extended collection of entekhna (Greek art songs).

02

Hondos Center 4 Omonia square, Omonia, 210-5221335 / Metro: Omonia A massive 10-storey multistore that includes everything you could possibly buy; clothes for men and women, cosmetics, shoes, underwear, swimwear.

03

Notos Galleries/ Notos Galleries Home 3-5 Kratinou Street, Kotzia square, Omonia, 2103245811 / Metro: Omonia Another mega-store chain: in Notos Galleries store you can find many contemporary brands for men and women, while Notos Galleries Home specializes in homeware (indoor and outdoor furniture, kitchenware etc).

04

Inkhead 68-70 Asklipiou Street, Exarchia, 210-3617040 / www.inkhead.gr / Metro: Panepistimio For some ultra cool handcrafted T-shirts, hoodies and cotton tote bags head for this little place in Exarchia.

Some of the T-shirts poke fun of Athens’s mess and chaos, while others feature some playful graphics and inventive slogans.

05

Museum shops Forget the horrific plastic Parthenons and gold-painted Evzones you spot in tourist shops.

If you are looking for classy souvenirs and copies of originals, head to the museums. In the past few years, museum stores have excelled in the art of replica-making, creating decorative items you would proudly display on a shelf. Benaki Museum, world renowned for its exquisite collections of Greek art, has opened an eclectic gift shop in Kolonaki (3 Kriezotou Street), with beautiful replicas of items seen in the museum, a large collection of art books, games teaching art to kids, decorative items, modern pottery, silk scarves, jewellery from contemporary designers and copies of works by famous Greek painters.

The shop on Kriezotou Street is housed on the ground floor of the restored mansion which belonged to the renowned Greek cubist painter, Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghika. Benaki Museum has masterfully restored the interior of the rest of the house back to its 1930s glory, and plans to open it to the public soon. Right accross the street you will find the art shop of one of the most prominent gallerists in Athens. Art-Design-Antiques is maintained by the Zoumboulakis family and there you can find excellent peaces of the most famous greek artists among other beautifull things.

Benaki Museum also houses a smaller, two-room shop in its main building (1 Koumbari Street), where you will find archaic figurines, traditional village textiles, postcards, golden classic jewellery and Byzantine religious icons.

The Islamic Museum’s (22 Aghion Asomaton & Dipylou Street) small shop sells books on its magnificent collection and generally on Islamic art, as well as beautiful ceramic plates with Islamic designs and colourful napkin rings.

The Museum of Cycladic Art (4 Neofytou Douka, Kolonaki) has beautiful replicas of the iconic, marble Cycladic figurines. Prices are very reasonable and make for great gifts. You will also find excellent pottery, miniature olive trees and silverware.

For modern Greek artwork, head to Benaki Museum’s Pireos Avenue Annexe (138 Pireos Avenue, Gazi), which has objects relating to the temporary exhibitions, art and architecture books, funky jewellery, colourful stationary, knitted pillows, decorative items and wall stencils.

The Museum of Greek Folk Art recently opened its own shop (45 Adrianou Street, Monastiraki), with traditional hand-embroidery, shadow puppets, children’s toys, jewellery, scarves, books and decorative objects, inspired by the museum’s rich collection.

Benaki Shop (3 Kriezotou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3630204) Benaki Museum 02 (1 Koumbari, Kolonaki) Museum of Cycladic Art 03 (4 Neofytou Douka, Kolonaki) 01

Benaki Museum, Pireos Annexe (138 Pireos Avenue, Gazi, 210-345311) Museum of Greek Folk Art 05 (45 Adrianou Street, Monastiraki) Art-design-antiques 06 (6, kriezotou street, 210-3634454) 04

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

61

62

The Good Life

Food

Eating is one of the favourite pastimes of Athenians and the city offers an ever-increasing variety of eateries. Casual dining is still the rule in a city filled with different versions of tavernas (traditional Greek restaurants) offering dishes of national and regional specialties, like those of the Cretan cuisine. Archetypical dishes are eaten in tavernas or mezedopolia, while the new trend is funky new establishments that combine the taverna atmosphere with a 21st century design.

If they crave for mum’s cooking, Athenians will head for an inomaghirio to enjoy oven-cooked specialties known as maghirefta. These places serve cheap but hearty meals which you usually select from a window display. They are the best initiation into real Greek food and its variations. With one of the longest coastlines in the world, Greeks are also especially fond of seafood and know a dozen ways to cook it. Restaurants located at Piraeus Port –the biggest port in the country –traditionally specialize in seafood.

The ever-increasing work hours and the economic slump have altered Athenians’ eating habits allowing room for the appearance of sandwich and juice shops throughout the city. For a quick snack during the day, Athenians will stop at one of the “fast-snack” bakery shops like Everest and Grigoris or cafés to get a sandwich, a light salad or a pie. But don’t be misled. Apart from breakfast, which usually consists of a plain cup of coffee, Athenians regard every meal of the day as an opportunity to explore the endless possibilities of Greek cuisine, catch up with friends and relax.

Lovers of haute cuisine will not be disappointed either. There’s an increasing tendency to push the boundaries of traditional cooking to new levels using popular ingredients like vegetables and fish and to experiment with classic Mediterranean dishes. If you want to dine in style and get a feeling of the local or international haute cuisine offered in the city, then opt for the upmarket choices and book a table on the terrace – most of them have one. Of course, haute Greek and international cuisine come at high price, but the restaurants mentioned here live up to the expectations.

There’s more to Greek cuisine than casual dining.

Although you might see people eating alone – especially during working hours – Athenians are social animals and going out to eat usually involves couples or groups of friends. Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest days of the week, so it’s highly advisable to book ahead. Reserving a table on the same day or a day before is sufficient for most places, but popular and pricey restaurants should be contacted two days ahead. It is also strongly suggested that you dress up when visiting high-end restaurants.

Food prices Prices indicated are for one person eating a two-course meal. Alcohol is not included. @ 15 euros and under @@ 16-25 euros @@@ 26-45 euros @@@@ over 45 euros

Syntagma & Commercial Centre Mama Roux 48, Aiolou Street, 2130048382/ Metro: Panepistimio / @ Having created a successful mix-and-match of international cuisine, this venue quickly became one of the hottest eateries in town, located in the commercial heart of Athens. Its thirtysomething regulars sit on its small wooden benches and enjoy the house specialties like burgers, the chicken tandoori, falafels or Mexican burittos with a glass of cold beer on the side.

The relaxed atmosphere, rhythm n’ blues music and reasonable prices will make you come back to try those other dishes.

01

Inomaghirio “To Paradosiako” 44A Voulis Street, 2103314121 / Metro: Syntagma / @@ Really good, hand-cooked Greek specialties and cheap house-wine is what this traditional small taverna is all about.

02

Tzitzikas & Mermingas 12-14 Mitropoleos Street, 210-3247607 / Metro: Syntagma / @@ A chain restaurant that focuses on Greek cuisine with an innovative twist. Service is fast and friendly.

03

Avocado 30 Nikis Street, 210-3237878, Syntagma / Metro: Syntagma / @@ Healthy, nutritious salads, rice, sandwiches and fruit juices are prepared on the spot. There are also plenty 04

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

63

Mina’s Greece

types of sausage (wurst), nicely tucked inside a fresh bread bun, together with caramelised onions and seven different kinds of sauce. Accompany that with potato skins or the Bavarian salad while you observe the artistic pictures of Berlin around the walls. Wash down with a German beer and you’re set to go.

Mamacas 41 Persefonis Street, Gazi, 210-3464984 / Metro: Keramikos/ @@@ An institution in Gazi, as one of the first modern tavernas to appear in the area, it remains faithful to its promise for simple, well-prepared food. Also welcomes guests as a bar.

04

Delis with local produce: One of the best ways to introduce yourself to the fascinating variety of native Greek edibles is to visit the small delis in the city centre. Vasilopoulos Deli (3, Paparigopoulou street Klafthmonos Square, Syntagma), part of the large supermarket chain, has a large choice of cheese and meat products, as well as wholegrain rusks - basic ingredient of the Cretan dakos salad. It also sells the delicious and seldom found Greek Kayak ice cream, as well as a small but educated list of Greek wines. Trusted brands include Boutaris, Gerovasileiou and Chatzimihalis. Pantopoleion Mesogeiakis Thiatrofis (1 Sofokleous Street & 11 Aristidou Street, Omonia, 210-3234612) tempts you with over 1,500 regional goodies and organic food provided by farming associations and home industries. Choose between baked mushrooms, olives from Kalamata, Kozani’s saffron, smoked trout and eel, Missolonghi’s fish roe as well as regional cheeses from Crete, Sifnos and Messinia. Don’t miss the traditional sweets and fruit preserves (glika tou koutaliou). Mina’s Greece (Marina Flisvou, 210-4058781): Mina Kakania is an expert on food and in her beautifull shop by the Flisvos Marina you will find an excellent collection of greek food and spirits. of options for vegans.

Kentrikon 05 8 Kolokotroni Street, 210-3232482, Syntagma / Metro: Syntagma / @@ This traditional restaurant has been serving hearty, traditional food from different regions of Greece in its somewhat dated décor, since 1960. Politicians and local executives are regulars.

GB Roof Garden 1, Vassileos Georgiou Street , Syntagma Square, 210-3330000 / @@@@ On the Grande Bretagne hotel’s roof. The restaurant where you can enjoy the best view of the city centre and a luxurious meal.

rants in the city. Open for lunch as well.

Pasaji Spiromiliou Arcade, inside City Link block, Syntagma, 210-3229714 / @@@ Urban chic environment in a bar-restaurant often used for business lunches. It serves international dishes.

08

Gazi & Psyrri

06

Furin Kazan 2 Apollonos Street, Syntagma, 210-3229170 / Metro: Syntagma / @@ Newly renovated, it’s one of the best Japanese restau07

64

The Good Life

Varoulko Restaurant 80 Pireos Street, Gazi, 210-5228400, open till 11.30 p.m./ Metro: Keramikos / @@@@ Varoulko has arguably the best seafood in town, thus the one Michelin star. Chef Lefteris Lazarou, known for his ability to turn simple ingredients into gourmet dishes, performs miracles with fish and seafood, while monkfish remains his 01

signature dish. The décor is understated; the terrace has an unblocked full view of the Acropolis and the service is brilliant. Needless to say, you should book ahead.

Sardelles 15 Persefonis Street, Gazi, 210-3478050 / Metro: Keramikos / @@ The baked sardines are the house specialty and the grilled calamari is delicious.

The shrimp souvlaki, which consists of grilled shrimps on a wooden stick, garnished with lemon and olive oil is a must.

02

Schweinchen Dick 9-11 Iakhou Street, Gazi, 6937983556 / MonThu 7 p.m.-3.30 a.m., Fri, Sat 7 p.m.-7 a.m., Sun 6 p.m.-3.30 a.m. / Metro: Keramikos / @ German style street food, this place offers different 03

Kanella 70 Konstantinoupoleos Street & Evmolpidon Street, Gazi, 210-3476320/ Metro: Keramikos/ @@ Its eclectic cook prepares traditional fare with a twist in a funky environment.

The lentil salad with feta is filling and the zucchini salad very fresh.

05

A Liar Man 2 Sofroniou Street, Gazi, 210-3426332 / Metro: Keramikos/ @@ Walk into the narrow Sofroniou Street and find this oddly-spelled bar at number two. Jazzy music and its Mediterranean style décor and food make it a popular hangout spot.

06

Il Buco Restaurant 18 Sarri Street & 2 Sachtouri Street, Psyrri, 210-3219338 / Metro: Monastiraki/ @@ Three young people created this jewel of a restaurant to celebrate real, intense Italian cuisine in a dramatic environment of white tables and black antique wooden chairs. There’s also a deli in the same building selling Italian delicacies like ham, cheese and pasta.

07

Dirty Ginger 46 Triptolemou Street & Persefonis Street, Gazi, 210-3423809/ Metro: Keramikos / @@ Spread out in a closed garden, it grills meat and mixes drinks too.

08

ment. Its central location makes it an ideal place to take a break after a long walk under the hot sun and refuel with tasty food. The menu offers salads, pasta, chicken dishes, but you can also simply have a coffee and a sandwich.

Ratka 30 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7290746 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@@@ Its longevity is a testimonial to its quality. The chefs of Ratka have been preparing dishes ranging from classic Italian to exquisite fish for decades, using only the finest ingredients and cooperating with the top Greek producers. Take a seat at one of its slightly uncomfortable small, round tables and watch Athens’ elite quietly take their seats next to you. You definitely need to book ahead.

06

Fava at Filippou Tavern, exquisite fish at Papadakis, the “team” at Il Postino.

Papadakis 47 Voukourestiou Street & 15 Fokilidou Street, Kolonaki, 210360862/, Metro: Syntagma / @@@@ This taverna has been here forever. It offers excellent Greek fare, like rooster in wine, in a neat, classic décor.

07

Nezos 58 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 6972340342 / Metro: Keramikos/ @ They call him “The Turk” and he’s the master of kebab, but also prepares a few mezedes in a plain establishment.

09

Kolonaki & Lykavittos Hill Kolonaki is home to a few of Athens’ best restaurants, offering high quality cuisine in classy surroundings, where eating and people-watching go hand-in-hand. Restaurants in this posh neighbourhood are inevitably pricier but you can still find a couple of eateries which serve Greek food at reasonable prices.

Filippou 19 Xenokratous Street, 210-7216390, open for lunch & dinner exc. Sat night-Sun/ Metro: Evangelismos / @@ Take a seat and you will be served oven-cooked dishes and great salads in one of the area’s oldest tavernas.

People head here after work for a relaxed atmosphere and guaranteed quality.

01

Kalamaki Kolonaki 32 Ploutarchou Street & Patriarchou Ioakim Street, Kolonaki, 2107218800 / Metro: Evangelismos / @ Yes, you can find reasonable prices in Kolonaki if you head to this small gentrified souvlaki cantine, with its limited outdoor sitting. A few juicy souvlaki skewers, coupled with freshly cooked French fries and a Greek salad will fill you without emptying your wallet.

02

La Cantina 28-30 Alopekis Street, Kolonaki, 210-7299133 / Metro: Evangelismos/ @@ Freshly baked thin slices of pizza and original pasta sauces make this a beloved Italian eatery.

03

Ouzadiko 25-29 Karneadou Street, 210-7295484, open Tue-Sat: lunch, dinner / Metro: Evanelismos / @@ Head here for some ouzo tasting and home cooked mezedes. Better book ahead.

04

Benaki Museum Café 1 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki, 210-3671000 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@ The museum is known for its collection of antiquities, as well as its fourth-floor café-restaurant which opens in a beautiful terrace with a unique view to the National Gardens and the Parlia05

Oikio 15 Ploutarchou Street, Kolonaki, 210-7259216 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@ Enjoy meat balls and other Greek traditional dishes in this cozy (that’s what its name means) French-style bistro. Tables and chairs take over the slanted pavement and fill up quickly.

08

Kiku 12 Dimokritou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3647033 / Metro: Megaro Moussikis / @@@@ A first class, minimal Japanese restaurant, with a long sushi-bar where you can sit and order your sake.

09

Il Postino 3 Griveon Street, Kolonaki, 210-3641414 / Metro: Panepistimio / @ A funky Italian trattoria with home-made pasta and a selective wine menu.

Make a reservation, as tables fill up fast.

10

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

65

Scala Vinoteca 50 Sina Street & Anagnostopoulou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3610041/ Metro: Panepistimio / @@@ Situated right across the French Institute, this is a hip, all-day wine bar, offering well-made Mediterranean platters paired with a wide selection of wines. Sit in a comfy Eames chair and try the shrimps marinated in lime, or the gazpacho soup to cool you off after a long walk. Closed on Sunday.

11

Central 14 Platia Filikis Eterias (Kolonaki Square), 2107245938 / Metro: Syntagma / @@@ World cuisine and extensive wine lists in Kolonaki’s meeting point.

12

Jackson Hall 4 Milioni, Kolonaki, 210-3616098 / Metro: Syntagma / @@@ Burgers, steaks, cheesecake and drinks in an allAmerican décor complete with authentic sports and other memorabilia on the walls. The venue is spread on three levels, to separate the dining areas from the bar. You will have to punch somebody in the face to get a table for lunch on Saturday.

13

Nice ’n’ Easy 60 Omirou Street (pedestrian part) & Skoufa Street, 210-3617201 / Metro: Panepistimio / @@ 14

All-day venue, serving delicious international dishes made of organic ingredients and really good drinks.

Lalu 1 Anagnostopoulou Street, Kolonaki, 2106233933 / Metro: Syntagma / @@@ Classic all-day hangout spot serving contemporary dishes to trendy city executives.

15

Πbox 22 Haritos Street( inside Periscope Hotel), 210-7298556 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@@ Chef Christoforos Peskias is fusing Greek and Asian cuisine in the minimalist surroundings of Periscope hotel. The menu offers different options depending on how hungry you are. For a quick bite, go for the potato salad with bacon and truffle oil. If you’re ready for dinner, try the sea bass with vegetables.

16

L’ Aubrevoir 51 Xenokratous Street, Kolonaki, 210-7229106 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@@@ French finesse in décor and menu will please the lovers of classic French cuisine.

You will find all the classics; fillet tartare, foie gras, entrecote with Bearnaise sauce. It also offers a lunch menu at 30 Euros per person.

17

Athens’s Central Market: Athena Street is the heart of the buzzing Athens Central Market –also known as Varvakeios –where producers sell their merchandise in an area contained within Armodiou, Filopimenos and Aristogitonos streets. The market is the place where Athenians and restaurateurs carefully choose their daily stock of meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese. Top quality products arrive daily from all over Greece and supply the entire city. Stroll past the meat market and observe the weird site of beef, pork and goat carcasses hanging upside-down from the meat-hooks. Turn on the corner and you’re in the fish market. On the stools you find sea-breams, blackfish, red mullets, anchovies, salmon and shrimps gleaming on ice. The floor is usually wet so walk carefully. On the square you find fruit and vegetable stalls, while small shops behind them sell different types of Greek cheese. Varieties include feta, graviera, anthotyro, kefalograviera, kalathaki Limnou and metsovone. Ask the employee to cut you a piece to taste. There are three tavernas serving hearty meals around the market, one of which is in a basement next to the olive stores (Diporto taverna, 1 Theatrou & Socratous, Theatrou Squre).

66

The Good Life

La Pasteria 18 Tsakalof Street, Kolonaki, 210-3632032 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@ This is an Italian restaurant chain whose success is based on a well-thought balance between quality and price. La Pasteria offers a wide selection of spaghetti, pasta, pizzas and appetizers in generous portions, so if you’re not too hungry, you’d better share.

18

Vivliothiki 18a, Kolonaki Square (next to the British Council), 210-3637897 / Metro: Syntagma / @@@ An all-day café-restaurant on one side of Kolonaki’s small square where the usual upscale clientele eat on their lunch break and politicians sip slowly a cappuccino while reading the day’s newspaper.

19

Launderette 34 Voukourestiou Street, 210-3390750 / Metro: Syntagma / @ Cute, Parisian-style café serving sandwiches, salads and coffee.

20

To Kafeneio 26 Loukianou Street, 210-7237757 / @@ A Greek bistro with wellprepared Greek cuisine and selected desserts. It remains closed on most days of August.

21

Orizontes Lycavittos Hill, 2107227065 / Metro: Evange22

lismos / @@@@ The hilly landscape of Athens is the reason it’s so full of restaurants with stunning views. At the top of Lycavittos Hill is this well-known restaurant with an amazing birds-eyeview of Athens. The menu focuses on French and creative Greek cuisine and is open from noon. To get there, you have to take the funicular from the corner of Kleomenous & Ploutarchou streets.

Diporto (A Place with two Exits) is one of the oldest taverns in Athens. Everything here is “unpolished” and simple, yet very tasty and cheap.

Street food: Souvlaki and more: Souvlaki is the king of Greek fast food. It’s tasty, filling and super cheap and it’s best enjoyed with some tzatziki on the side. You’ll find it in several variations but the main version is pita bread stuffed with either pork or chicken skewers or with thin slices of pork or chicken (gyros) chopped off from a rotisserie.

You then add all the extras, meaning copious amounts of tzatziki, onion, tomato, mustard sauce or even potatoes and you sink your teeth in. To avoid getting a plate with two plain skewers make sure to mention you want it wrapped (tylihto). Some of the best souvlaki can be found in souvlatzidika in the city centre and especially in Exarchia or Monastiraki. Another popular delight is the greasy hot dogs baked on the spot on small stalls strategically located outside after-hour hang outs. Don’t worry about finding them; the smell of grilled onions will guide you to them.

Omonia & inner city Diporto Taverna 1 Theatrou Street & Socratous Street, Theatrou Square, 210-3211463 / Metro:Omonia / @ An unpretentious taverna offering delicious fried mezedes and stewed dishes that were just bought at the local market.

01

Taverna Papandreou 1 Aristogitonos Street, Monastiraki, 210-3214970 / Metro: Monastiraki / @ Prepares excellent, hearty meals made with fresh ingredients from the local 02

market. The place is open from noon, but it’s also worth showing up after a night out to join the clubbers who gulp the filling – if smelly –patsa soup. This tripe soup is made from lamb, pork or beef offal and is considered to help your stomach cope with heavy alcohol consumption.

Klimataria 2 Plateia Theatrou, Varvakeios, 210-3216629 / Metro: Omonia / @ Another hidden treasure, where you find traditional, comfort food at a bargain.

This place is very busy during lunchtime and you may have to wait to be seated, but it’s worth it.

03

To Petalo 10 Xanthis Street & Lelas Karayianni Street, Kipseli, 210-8622000 / Trolley or bus to Platia Kipselis / @ The owners have successfully created an unusual combination – traditional dishes with a modern twist at low prices and jazz music playing on the background.

On Sunday there’s a buffet at just 15 Euros per person and since the food flies off the serving plates you better get there early. Open every night except Monday.

Sunday for lunch only.

04

Lefteris 20 Satovriandou Street, Omonia / Metro: 05

Omonia /@ Hidden behind the Hondos Centre building in Omonia square, it is known for its delicious souvlaki.

Dhaka Palace 26 Geraniou Street, Omonia, 210-5228604 / Metro: Omonia / @@ Great Indian food and décor in the Indian-Pakistani neighbourhood of Athens.

Go early (before 9) as the area is rather dodgy.

06

Pak Indian 13 Menandrou Street, Omonia, 210-3219412, 210-3242225 / Metro: Omonia / @@ The other successful PakIndian restaurant, has recently moved out of the 07

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

67

centre’s dodgy area (Platia Theatrou). The food is original and the service very polite.

Imperial Town 44 Geraniou Street & Aghiou Konstantinou Street, Omonia, 2105246486, 5244641/ Metro: Omonia / @ Original Chinese and other Far-East Asian dishes in a no-fuss restaurant.

08

vegetables in this simple inomaghirio.

Salero 51 Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia, 210-3813358 / Metro: Omonia / @@ Spanish and other mediterranean cuisines in a colourful bar-restaurant that 07

Athens.

Lefka 09 121 Mavromihali Street, Exarchia, 2103614038 / Metro: Omonia / @@ Standard taverna dishes are served in this classic establishment.

Vrettos 9 Angelou Geroda Street, Filomousou Eterias Square, Plaka, 210-3216981 / Metro: Monastiraki / @@ This green-coloured ouzeri makes delicious mezedes to go with your ouzo. It is one of the few eateries in touristic Plaka that is worth your money.

Yiantes 44 Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia Square, 2103301369 / Metro: Omonia / @@ Modern taverna that uses mostly organic ingredients and serves up original recipies.

01

Thanasis 69 Mitropoleos Street, Monastiraki / Metro: Monastiraki / @ It is said to serve the best kebab in town. Be sure to go early to get a table.

02

Kavouras 64 Themistocleous Street, Exarchia, 2103837981 / Metro: Omonia /@ An old souvlaki joint, open 24/7, with a faithful afterhours clientele.

02

Barbayiannis 94 Emanouil Benaki Street, Exarchia, 2103300185 / @ Cosy and relaxed inomaghirio, it serves mouthwatering casserole dishes.

Maximum value for money.

Rozalia 59 Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia Square, 2103302933 / @ Students and youngsters make Rozalia a simple but lively taverna where excellent mezedes are brought on trays for you to choose from.

04

Fassoli 45 Emmanouil Benaki Street, Exarchia, 2103300010 / @@ Fasoli is part of a new wave of hip tavernas and inomaghiria that are taking over the city, catering to a demanding younger clientele.

Achilleas 63 Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia, 210-3303216 / Metro: Omonia / @ People from nearby offices flock here to eat veal with

68

The Good Life

Ouzou Melathron 10 Aghiou Filipou Street & Astigos Street, Monastiraki, 210-3240716 / Metro: Monastiraki / @@ A success story from Thessaloniki landed in Athens and continues to thrive. The super long menu includes hearty traditional mezedes.

03

Discovering local open-air markets: Apart from Athens’ Central Market, each neighbourhood has its own small open market on specific days where people stock up with fresh goodies. Producers unload fruit and vegetables on their stalls and cry their wares. They’re usually open from 7 a.m. till 2 p.m. and it’ a great place to watch Athenians going about their daily lives, but also an unmissable opportunity to find fresh produce at exceptionally low prices. Buy some fruit to have a healthy and refreshing snack in your bag for those long walks under the scorching sun. There are juicy peaches – choose the lemonata variety if they have them – apricots (Bebekou and Thiamandopoulou varieties are top-notch) - cherries – both dark red and crunchy petrokerasa - great smelling melons from Dimini, grapes and watermelons, which you may ask to taste before buying. In the city centre, there’s the market of Xenokratous Street in Kolonaki every Friday, of Kallidromiou Street in Exarchia every Saturday, while in Aghia Irini Square, close to Ermou, there’s a beautiful little flower market.

05

06

Acropolis, Plaka & Monastiraki 01

Exarchia

03

satisfying cocktail menu.

The only drawback is that the music is played on low, to avoid complaints from neighbours.

opens onto a quiet garden at the back.

Ambelokipi

Athinaikon 2 Themistokleous Street (corner with Panepistimiou), Exarchia, 2103838485 / Metro: Omonia / @@ A landmark of ouzeri culture, it prepares an impressive line-up of mezedes in a dining hall decorated with large pictures of old

Balthazar BarRestaurant 27 Tsoha Street, on the corner of Bournazou, Ampelokipi, 210-6441215 / @@@@ An upmarket restaurant with a classic menu and a large courtyard open in summer. It doubles as a bar at night and offers a

08

01

Avyssinia Café Avyssinia Square, Psyrri, 210-321704 / Metro: Monastiraki / @@ One of the most atmospheric restaurants in the city, where traditional and modern recipies are mixed with perfect results. The service is impeccable and so is the spinach mousaka.

Wash it all down with generous amounts of wine or just a cold beer.

04

Therapeftirio

A vegetarian restaurant – a true rarity in Athens – housed in a grocery store. It follows odd opening hours, so call ahead.

Pangrati & Mets Thissio Filistron 23 Apostolou Pavlou Street, 210-3467554 / Metro: Thissio / @@ This semi-casual restaurant offers a perfect view of the Acropolis and reasonably priced Greek specialties such as zucchini balls and fresh salads.

01

Morphi café-bar 42 Irakleidon Street, Thissio, 210-3452581 / Metro: Thissio The relaxed atmosphere, its cheap rakomelo, wine and mezedes makes Morphi a favourite among locals.

02

Pil-Poul Restaurant 51 Apostolou Pavlou Street, 210-342665 / Metro: Thissio / @@@@ French-influenced cuisine for exquisite dining by Chef Athinagoras Kostakos. Its Acropolis view from its beautiful terrace is its main selling point.

03

Epistrofi stin Ithaki (Return to Ithaca) 56 Irakloidon Street, Thissio, 210-3472964 / Metro: Thissio / @@ 04

Vyrinis 11 Archimidous Street, Pangrati / @@ Delicious Greek casserole specialties in a classic taverna that attracts the young.

01

Spondi 5 Pyronos Street, Varnava Square, Pangrati, 2107520658/210-3450803, open Mon-Sun 20:00-23:00 / @@@@ Michelin-rated (two stars) Spondi is housed in a beautiful, three-storied mansion. It caused a stir in Athens’s gastronomic scene since it first opened with its high-quality French and Mediterranean cuisine which pleases the eye as well as the tastebuds. In the summer, tables are placed on a lovely terrace.

02

Milos Restaurant 46 Vasilissis Sophias Avenue, 210-7244400 / Metro: Evangelismos / @@@@ Inside Hilton hotel, Milos serves excellent seafood and a sufficient variety of specialties from all over the country. The prices are steep, but you can also opt for the set menu for 20 Euros.

03

Ano Petralona Salos Lagos 63, Troon Street, Ano Petralona, 210-3414234 / Metro: Petralona / @ In the school notebook serving as a menu you will find delicious chickpea soup and aubergines stuffed with tomato sauce and cheese, as well as some tasty salads, like the boiled greens. The rakomelo, a strong grappalike drink with honey, will wash it all down nicely. Its prices are adjusted to the austerity-hit clientele, comprised mainly of youngsters.

01

Therapeftirio 41 Kydantidon Street & Kallisthenous Street, 210-3412538 / Metro: Petralona / @ Casserole dishes and cheap seafood in one of the oldest tavernas of the neighbourhood.

02

Economou 41 Troon Street, Ano Petralona, 210-3467555 / Metro: Petralona / @ Excelent Greek Taverna Food, one of the most beautifull spots in town.

03

Kappari 36 Dorieon Street, Ano Petralona, 210-3450288/ Metro: Petralona / @@ The black and white photos on the wall make up the simple décor of this old house, where you can eat generous portions of Greek fare. The stuffed zucchini flowers are 04

Dionysus’ favourite drink: When out to eat, pass on the usual choices of Italian and French wine and opt for a Greek label.

Wine making is a fast growing business in the country and native varieties are used to create excellent wines. Asyrtiko, moschofilero, athyri, roditis, savatiano and robola are only some of the white varieties, while xinomavro, limnio and ayiorghitiko are used for red wine. Some of the best known – and welltrusted – brands include Averoff, Antonopoulou, Boutaris, Chatzimihalis, Kyr-Yiannis, Yerovassiliou, Lazaridis and Spyropoulou. Keep in mind that restaurants price bottles much higher than stores, so you can buy one from a mini-market or deli in the city centre alternatively. Vassilopoulos Deli (3, Paparigopoulou street Klafthmonos Square, Syntagma) offers a selection of Greek brands, as well as Cellier Wine Store (1 Kriezotou Street, Syntagma, 2103610040). Apart from dry wine, sweet, red, full-mouthed Mavrodafni is the Greek equivalent of Port and is usually drunk as an appetiser, or as a drink in bars. The city of Patras in Peloponnesos is the top producer, so ask for it by its name of origin.

In tavernas and mezedopolia you might also be offered retsina, known as wine’s poor relation. It’s a funny-tasting wine made of resinated white or even rose wine that has been produced in Greece since antiquity. Often sneered at by fans of high quality wine, retsina is now a product with protected designation of origin. Attica, Viotia and Evia are the top producers, traditionally combining savatiano and asyrtiko or roditis varieties. It’s produced like ordinary wine, but pine resin is added during fermentation. Celebrated brands include Kourtaki and Malamatina, found in most supermarkets and wine stores.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

69

not to be missed if they have it, as well as the Cypriot meatballs. Note: smoking is allowed everywhere, so if it bothers you it’s advisable to get a seat outside.

Chez Lucien 32 Troon Street, Ano Petralona, 210-3464236 / Metro: Petralona / @@ The chef prepares a limited number of French courses in his open kitchen, in a bistro-like envirnoment, at reasonable prices.

05

Piraeus Dourambeis 29 Akti Protopsalti, Piraeus, 210-4180160 / @@@ Modern decor and a trusted place for first class seafood and great salads, reasonably priced.

01

Istioploikos Akti Mikrolimanou, 210-4134084/184 / @@@ Chic, upscale venue with a view to match the menu.

After lunch you can go upstairs to the bar-café.

02

Glyfada Tou Garbi 01 Selinis Street & 21 Iliou Street, Kavouri, 2108963480 / @@@@ Fresh seafood is getting harder to find, but this restaurant is a sure bet. Garbis has a long tradition in fresh, well made seafood.

Vincenzo 1 Giannitsopoulou Street, Glyfada, 2108941310 / Tram: Angelou Metaksa / @@ An Italian restaurant with modern décor, excellent pasta and helpful service.

Good value for money.

02

Beyrouth 03 13 Saki Karaghiorga Street, Glyfada / Tram: Angelou Metaksa / @@@ Remains one of the best Lebanese restaurants in Athens and that’s why it has loyal customers. In summer you’re seated in the garden.

TGI Fridays 43 Lazaraki Street, Glyfada / Tram: Angelou Metaksa / @@ 04

70

The Good Life

Ouzo or tsipouro? The celebrated ouzo, wrongly compared with absinth, is best enjoyed with seafood and diluted with water to make it lighter. Some people like to add ice, but connoisseurs claim it ruins the flavour, plus they blame it for the headaches experienced after its consumption. The best variety is made in Mytilini Island (Lesvos), mount Tyrnavos and Kalamata. Its “cousin”, tsipouro, is the rough equivalent of Italian grappa and is drunk the same way as ouzo. Their difference is that ouzo is produced by alcohol distillation with the addition of water and aromatic herbs such as aniseed – which gives it its signature smell – while tsipouro is produced by the distillation of the mass that remains after the crushing of the grapes, plus some herbs. Drink with moderation, as they contain 40-50% and 36-45% alcohol by volume, respectively. Trusted brands of ouzo include Varvayiannis and Plomari and of tsipouro Tsantalis, but you can also find rare local varieties in delis with Greek products. “Mythos” beer is another Greek success story launched in 1997 and many Athenians prefer it to other brands. It’s a light, gold-coloured lager, perfect for taverna food and you can order it almost everywhere. Last but not least, Metaxa five and seven-star brandy has been a major export product since the 70’s and remains highly recommended.

The well-known chain has found a fitting environment in Americanised Glyfada.

Popular with local youngsters.

Kifisia Berthema 20 Vasilissis Amalias Street, Kifisia, 210-8013853 / Metro: Kifisia / @@@ A modern taverna serving Greek and Turkish fare with a twist. Try the doner, the tomato-balls, the stuffed cabbage leaves and the fresh salads.

01

Il Salumaio Di Atene 3 Panaghitsas Street, Kifisia, 210-6233934 / Metro: Kifisia / @@@ An Italian delicatessen, doubling as a restaurant with a wide selection of cheeses and cold cuts, and the classic cured ham hanging from the ceiling. You must try the delicious focaccias or a fresh salad. Closed on Sunday.

02

03

To kalosorisma tou Antoni

41 Lyra Street, Nea Kifisia, 210-8017869, 2108018457 / Metro: Kifisia / @@@ A welcoming taverna serving casserole and grilled dishes, made from highquality ingredients.

Kouzoulo Dragoumi Street & Adrianou Street, Kifisia, 210-6233900 / Metro: Kifisia / @ Authentic Cretan cuisine cooked by a Cretan family who opened this taverna in an effort to bring their traditional recipies to Athenians.

04

Pandeli 3 Pendelis Street, Kifisia, 210-8080787 / Metro: Kifisia / @@@ Turkish flavours on the elaborate side. It is related to Istanbul’s original.

05

Pritaneion Kefalariou Square, 21089089160 / Metro: Kifisia / @@@ A modern all-day restaurant serving international dishes to a hip crowd.

06

Vari At the southern suburb of Voula, on Varis Avenue, is the area of Vlahika, known for its traditional plain red meat tavernas. It’s the place to go for a Greek interpretation of Sunday family lunch and a generous plate of meat. A prancing tout dressed as an Evzone –presidential guard in full uniform which includes a fluffy white kilt –greets customers on the street and shows them in the taverna. The food options exhaust the meat category: There are pork or beef hamburgers, rolled roast of beef liver and innards (kokoretsi), pork and lamb chops, T-bones, meatballs, all grilled on large roasting jacks or over charcoal. The cooked meat is displayed behind the glass kitchen divide to tempt custom-

ers –or freak them out if they’re vegetarians. These restaurants are a big hit with families who swarm them on the weekends bringing kids and in-laws for a casual lunch.

Vlahos Varis Avenue & 2 Panos Street, 210-8952485 / @@ Serves big chunks of kokoretsi and T-bones grilled over charcoal.

01

Tseligas 24 Panos Street, Dilofo Varis, 210-8952371 / @@ It serves all possible meat combinations and is packed on Sundays.

02

Babis Varis Avenue & Paizi Street, Vlahika, Vari, 2108951710 / @@ Offers its juicy meat dishes in generous servings and low prices.

03

Confectionery Nowadays, panacotta and chocolate soufflé are more common than still water in restaurants, but if there’s a wider choice of deserts, go for the ones with the long names.

Galaktompoureko is a delicious type of cream pie with syrup, which is best served warm.

Rizogalo is a rice pudding with cinnamon sprinkled on top and ipovrihio is a spoonful of the white soft

mastiha dipped in cold water, a typical summer favourite. If you’re into fruit and really sweet desserts then don’t miss the traditional fruit preserves or spoon sweets (glika tou koutaliou). Mount Pelio in central Greece is the main origin of their production but each area of the country has its own favourite. Try rose (triantafyllo), grapes (stafyli), fig (siko), cherry (kerasi) or quince (kidoni). Some restaurants put spoonsweets over yoghurt or ice cream – yum.

Ice cream Greek brands can be found outside kiosks (Delta, Evga) and in many cafés, but family-business Kayak is by far the best.

They’ve excelled in originality launching flavours such as mojito, mango with ginger and jasmine and lemongrass.

Kayak 10 Kassaveti Street & Kiriazi Street, 210-8014329 / Metro: Kifisia The only Kayak store is in Kifisia, one of Athens’ northern suburbs, but you can also find it in Filion café (34 Skoufa, Kolonaki), Degustation deli (5 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki, 210-3627744), as well as in selected delis (Vassilopoulos, see delis) and restaurants.

01

Spice shops

Stelios Parliaros – Sweet Alchemy 24 Irodotou Street, Kolonaki, 210-7240205 / Metro: Evangelismos Famous and beloved patissier Stelios Parliaros has worked his magic again in this store where one can find his trademark chocolate in all its forms (white, milk, black, rounded, plaques), as well as jams, biscuits, ginger sticks covered in raw sugar and other yummy delicacies.

02

Fresh 12 Kriezotou, Kolonaki, 210-3625003 / Metro: Syntagma Ice cream and other amazing sweets can be found in this small store where desserts fly off the shelves. The honey and champagne cream gateaux is just amazing.

03

Aristocratikon 9 Karaghiorgi Servias, Syntagma, 210-3220546 / Metro: Syntagma For traditional chocolate lovers there is Aristocratikon, where they’ll have to make difficult decisions such as choosing between screwshaped dark chocolate and plums dipped in cocoa.

04

Hamptons Cupcakes 11 Levidou Street, Kifisia / Metro: Kifisia It is worth coming all the way to Kifisia just to try the original American cupcakes in mouth-watering flavours at a beautiful, serene café.

Ingredients are imported from the United States to ensure the authenticity of the flavour!

05

Known since 1922 as the market for “Anatolian” products, atmospheric Evripidou Street, behind Omonia Square, still remains the spice shop district. Here you can find any herb that grows under the Greek sun, like oregano, basil and mountain tea at bargain prices.

The scarcity of water during the summer means the odour or Greek herbs is distinctly intense and will spice up any ingredient if you throw it in the casserole.

Bahar 31-33, Evripidou, 2103217225 / Metro: Omonia Here you can find native and Asian herbs, such as thyme, marjoram, cloves, cinnamon, fennel, curry and many tea varieties, while next door is the place to find cured beef and ham, as well as honey and vinegar.

Join the curious passersbys and take the time to stop and ask for information on your favourite spices, open boxes and discover the ones you like best. Apart from the spice shops, the large concentration of immigrants in the area gives you a glimpse of the big demographic change of the inner city during the past decade.

The area around has become the commercial centre of the Chinese, Indian and Pakistani communities.

01

Visit the spice shops in Evripidou str. and get a taste of true Meditteranean herbs.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

71

Dioskouroi

Cafés

There is an entire culture behind coffee (kafé) drinking in Athens. People go out for coffee to meet friends, chat, socialise, unwind and do some people-watching. Even job interviews have been known to take place in the quieter cafés around Kolonaki and Syntagma. In the old days, cafés were also the meeting places of the city’s political and literary elite. Writers, poets and Prime Ministers would be seen enjoying their Greek coffee while chatting quietly with their friends. Unfortunately, most of the pre-WWII cafés have closed down during the past few decades, but a few precious ones remain at their place (see Zonars).

You can almost find one café on every corner of Athens with tables taking over the pavements during summer.

Drinking coffee is a ritual – especially if it’s a frappé. You’re not supposed to rush; you should sit back, take a sip, comment on the day’s events and watch passers-by. Athenians spend an hour over their coffee. The next time you want to take a break from sightseeing and you feel crushed by the heat, you may take shelter in one of the city’s numerous cafés and order your frappuccinos, frappés and freddoccinos.

Cafés around Syntagma and Kolonaki are frequented by professionals who pop in for a light lunch or a quick coffee on their way to work. For a quieter and more atmospheric environment, walk towards cafés at Monastiraki or Thissio, next to the train tracks and enjoy the unbeatable view of the Acropolis and the Roman Agora.

72

The Good Life

Filion

Exarchia Podilato 48 Themistokleous Street, Exarchia, 2103303430 / Metro: Omonia Hang out with students and casual crowds in this tiny café. Order chocolate and enjoy the music.

01

Hartes 35 Valtetsiou Street & Zoodohou Pigis Street, 2108304778 / Metro: Omonia Popular with locals, serves coffee and board games.

02

Kolonaki Da Capo 1 Tsakalof, Kolonaki Square, Kolonaki / Metro: Syntagma Right in the middle of Kolonaki Square, Da Capo is a meeting point of those who want to see and be seen. Those sitting next to you are likely to be lawyers, politicians, or businessmen discussing work, or the state of political affairs in Greece. Its cappuccino is reputedly the best in town and has a price to match it.

01

Rosebud 40 Skoufa Street & 60 Omirou Street, 2103392370 / Metro: Syntagma One of the oldest cafés in Kolonaki, it stays open all day and is almost always packed.

02

The Dark Side Of 03 Chocolate 49 Solonos Street, Kolonaki At the ground floor of an apartment building of the 30s there is a chocolaterie where you can sip spicy chocolate drinks and eat home-made chocolate bites flavoured with lemon, pink pepper or basil, as well as

fresh truffles.

Brazilian 04 10 Valaoritou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3622845 A large café on the busy Valaoritou Street, where you can enjoy fresh sandwiches and many types of coffee.

Filion 34 Skoufa Street, Kolonaki, 210-3612850 Writers, politicians and locals hang out at this old café that offers an excellent service and the delicious Kayak ice cream.

05

Launderette 34 Voukourestiou Street, Kolonaki, 2103390750 / Metro: Syntagma Just like a French cafébistro, it makes great coffee and some good, home-made dishes.

06

Petit Fleur 44 Omirou Street, Kolonaki, 210-3613169 / Metro: Syntagma Petit Fleur specialises in imaginative, thick chocolate drinks, all made with Valrhona chocolate in separate coffee pots, as well as delicious quiche. The place also serves coffee for its die-hard fans.

07

Zendo 15 Solonos Street & Pindarou Street, Kolonaki After walking all day in the heat, your energy levels will have hit rock bottom.

Pop in and order a fresh fruit juice, or a vitamin-rich power smoothie and you will feel fine in no-time.

08

Box 4 Koleti Street, Exarchia, 210-3847597 / Metro: Omonia A small café with occasional artistic exhibitions and music nights.

03

Meet you at Zonar’s 9 Voukourestiou Street & Panepistimou Street, Syntagma Old Athens’ incarnation, Zonar’s café, is closely linked with Athens’ post-war era and is one of the last emblematic cafés that have survived. The modern place you see today is the fully reconstructed version of the old café, which reopened its doors in 2007 to meet a huge success. The original Zonar’s, built in 1940 by Karolos Zonaras, who had migrated here from the United States, was a historic meeting place for politicians, poets, writers, movie stars and members of the high society. Some of its regulars included composer Manos Hatzidakis, poet and Nobel laureate Odysseas Elytis, painter Nikos Hatzikiriakos-Ghika and statesman Evangelos Averoff, while Sophia Loren and Anthony Quinn reportedly popped in whenever they were in town. Today it is frequented by executives of nearby banks and government offices, fast-moving lawyers, slowmoving housewives taking a break from their shopping sprees, well-heeled 30-somethings who love to chat, and pensioners who still like to think of Zonar’s “as it once was”.

Its strategic location and popularity means you might have to queue for a table, so use the time to eye the mouthwatering desserts prepared in-store in a daily basis in the window display. Coffee is excellent in all its variations, and so are the light snacks, but prices are exorbitant. Remember, you’re paying for history.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

73

Aghias Irinis Square is one of the liveliest spots in central Athens.

Magaze

Tailor Made

Syntagma Nikis Cafe 3 Nikis Street & Ermou Street, Syntagma, 210-3234971 Serving busy executives and stock brokers during the day, it sells delicious coffee, breakfast and fruit juices until 5 p.m. In the evening it slows down and starts serving drinks.

01

Brigante 4 Amalias Avenue, Syntagma, 211-1821400 Perfect Italian-style cappuccinos and espressos and the freshest focaccias and pastries for people on the go.

Throubi Cafe Clemente Viii 3 Voukourestiou Street, 210-3219340 Clemente serves the best filter coffee in town, as well as delicious pastries and snacks.

04

Lallabai Cafe 05 Aigli, Syntagma, Zappio Gardens Tucked inside the quiet Zappio Gardens, it’s one of the most beautiful cafés in town.

02

The 7 Jokers 7 Voulis Street, Syntagma, 210-3219225 A standard choice for the local employees’ break during the day, a popular spot with happy hours in the evening.

03

74

The Good Life

Aghias Irinis Square Throubi Aghias Irinis Square, Monastiraki, 210-3230928 / Metro: Monastiraki A bar made famous in Spetses moves to Athens and plays funk music for his thirty-something clientele.

01

Aperitif 4 Kalamiotou Street, Kapnikareas Square, 210-3240103 / Metro: Monastiraki Doubling its size for the summer, Aperitif wants to dominate the clubbing scene in the area.

02

Faust Corner of Athinaidos and Kalamiotou, 210-3234095 / Metro: Monastiraki The atmosphere, the theatrical setting, the thick blood-red curtains and the crystal chandeliers make you feel you are back in the ‘20s. This venue hosts performances, concerts and other events and of course serves as a great bar as well.

03

Tailor Made Aghias Irinis Square, Monastiraki, 213 0049645 / Metro: Monastiraki Housed in a beautiful neoclassic 19th-century mansion, this chic bar 04

dominates the lively Aghias Irinis Square. It opens in the afternoon for coffee and continues into the night with soul music and a large selection of drinks.

Caminando Aghias Irinis Square, Monastiraki, 6932 424919 / Metro: Monastiraki An all-day, multi-level venue, ideal for a short break during your day.

05

Rooster 4 Aghias Irinis Square, Monastiraki, 210-3224410 / Metro: Monastiraki The friends’ living-room atmosphere of this new, gay-friendly café-bar makes one a regular customer.

Mini art exhibitions are often organised.

06

Dude 14 Kalamiotou, Monastiraki, 210-3227130 / Metro: Monastiraki Dude is cool, and the soul music playing in this nar07

Frappé coffee, a Greek habit: A true Greek obsession, frappé coffee is the highest selling cold drink in summer. Definitely not as sophisticated as cappuccino or espresso, it is made from Nescafe’s instant coffee, water and ice. Shaken, not stirred. Sugar and milk are optional. You can order it at any café, or even buy it in DIY packages from kiosks. This frothy drink is not for the faint-hearted.

Its flavour is intense and may prove heavy for your stomach, so you might consider accompanying it with a light snack. When ordering one, you should say if you want it sweet (glikos), medium (metrio) or without sugar (horis zahari), and also if you want it with milk (me gala), or black (sketo). Then sit back, drink it slowly over an hour or so, and do some people-watching. Every café in Athens serves a decent frappé, but the best places to enjoy the beat of the city or a nice view are Kolonaki, Thissio (antiquities all around) and the area around Syntagma Square. If time is pressing, go to small, corner-cafés such as Via Vai (Stadiou Street, Syntagma), Everest or Grigoris snack-chains for a quick espresso to-go.

The small, artistic Kimolia café is hidden inside a yellow neoclassical building standing at the beginning of a narrow street that leads to Plaka. It plays soul music, is preferred by students and its cappuccino-to-go costs only 1.50 Euros.

Apla Cafe 1 Adrianou Street, Thissio, 210-3255552 / Metro: Thissio With outdoors tables to admire the unblocked view of the Acropolis.

04

Kafenion O Glikis Angelikis Hatzimichali Street & Angelou Geroda Street, Monastiraki, 2103318205 You can find this traditional Greek café, which serves Greek coffee and a few mezedes to keep you going, hidden behind large plants at the corner of two pedestrian streets.

05

K44

Klepsidra Cafe 9 Thrasivoulou Street & Klepsidras Street, Plaka, 210-3212493 If you can find this café while strolling around Plaka, it means you are a true explorer. Klepsidra café is right beneath the Acropolis Hill, close to Anafiotika and many tourists usually stumble upon it on their way down. It is well known to locals, though and it is difficult to find a free table.

06

Dioskouroi Cafe 13 Dioskouron Street, Plaka, 210-3219607 Dioskouroi is a mezedopolio, frequented by those who love its location and the view over the antiquities, but many people just stop for a quick coffee as well.

07

Kirki Cafe 31 Apostolou Pavlou Street, Thissio, 210-3466960 The wide, cobbled Apostolou Pavlou Street is lined with many cafés, but this one offers delicious Greek Kayak ice cream, which definitely sets it apart.

08

row bar makes it ideal for a nightcap Magaze 33 Eolou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3243740 / Metro: Monastiraki A trendy café-bar in a central, commercial area of old Athens, preferred by thirty and forty-somethings. Go for a coffee and a muffin in the morning and come back in the evening for a drink.

08

Plaka, Monastiraki, Thissio Apsenti Cafe 19 Irakleidon Street, Thissio, 210-3424224 / Metro: Thisio You can pretty much spend your day here. It serves coffee, but it’s also a taverna with good food.

01

Teopotion Peonia (Peony Teahouse) 21 Amphiktionos Street & Poulopoulou Street, Thissio, 210-3410260 / Metro: Thissio A great variety of green, white and black teas, as well as many herbal infusions, offered in a beautiful environment.

02

Kimolia Art Cafe 5 Iperidou Street, 2111848446 03

Couppa Cafe 3 Akamantos Street, Thissio, 210-3478592 A modern café that has taken over the pavement of the busy Akamantos Street and serves good lattes.

09

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

75

Bars Athenians are night owls. That’s one reason why there is always traffic late at night – another reason is that they love their cars so much. People will usually start their evening in a restaurant and continue for drinks late into the night. The city offers an endless and ever-changing variety of different types of entertainment, which reaches its peak during the summer, when the balmy weather draws people out on the streets. Even cinemas have adopted the open-air culture, making watching a movie in Athens a unique experience.

Each area of the city attracts its own “tribe”, with fashionistas hitting the area of Gazi and Psyrri like a hurricane, while students and intellectuals inhabit Exarchia. Plaka, Monastiraki and Thissio attract an even mix of tourists and casual crowds, while label-chasers exchange pleasantries at Kolonaki.

Another interesting nightlife trend is the combination of a café, bar and restaurant under one roof. You may enjoy a quiet lunch at A Liar Man in Gazi, and before you know it it’s midnight and the coffee in your hand has been replaced by a mojito. Such venues are multiplying and are mostly found in Psyrri, Gazi and Kolonaki.

Summertime is also the season when nightlife - and more specifically clubbing - shifts to the southern suburbs, as their proximity to the sea makes them ideal hangout spots. The hotter the weather gets, the more Athenians look for nightspots that offer that holiday feeling. In the evening, the seaside areas between Palio Faliro and Glyfada are where you will find youngsters walking past the numerous bars in flashy clothes. Most Athenian clubs lead double lives – in the winter they are located at the city centre and are packed to the point of madness. In the summer, they move south, where the venues have double the space available and are partly open-air. Those looking for a quieter time, however, continue to hang out at the same bars in central Athens. Most bars in the city are small, but in the summer they usually open to a back-garden or a terrace, where they often host cultural events.

Clubs charge an entrance fee which usually includes one free drink, but the bars only charge you for the drinks you buy.

6 d.o.g.s.

76

The Good Life

Vrettos

well as guest DJ sets. Music is sometimes too loud.

Omonia & inner city Au Revoir 136 Patission Street, 210-8223966 Below Omonia Square there is one of the oldest watering holes in town, the classic –if slightly decadent –Au Revoir, has very well-priced drinks and loyal customers.

01

Akropolis, Plaka, Thissio & Monastiraki Inoteka 3 Avyssinias Square, 211-3246446 / Metro: Monastiraki The tiny bar serves great mojitos and hosts excellent DJ sets and happenings.

01

Galaxy

Loukoumi 3 Avyssinias Square, Monastiraki / Metro: Monastiraki A small bar, at the first floor of an old building right at the centre of the colourful Avyssinias Square, recently opened its doors, offering drinks at 5 Euros.

The crowd of 20-somethings swing lightly to Iggy Pop and in summer the terrace will open up, offering an amazing view of the Acropolis Hill.

02

Kolonaki & Lykavittos Hill

bar has opened in Athens and continues its tradition of upbeat music in a Cycladic-style setting. The right place to show off your tan and trendy outfits.

City 43 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7228910/ Metro: Evangelismos Businessmen, lawyers and executives flock in to enjoy good cocktails and to socialise in Haritos’ most famous bar. Live music on Sundays.

Tokyo 21 Sina Street, 213-0035558 / Metro: Panepistimio Tiny, trendy and usually packed bar is preferred by those who want to dance.

01

Argo Bar Mykonos 02 19 Dinokratous Street, Kolonaki, 6938676734/ Metro: Evangelismos A famous Mykonos Island

03

Barak 04 8A Loukianou Street, 210-7214959 / Metro: Evangelismos This stylish champagne bar plays swing, jazz, soul and 90s music and serves finger food prepared by the chef.

Mai Tai 18 Ploutarchou Street, Kolonaki, 210-7258306 / Metro: Evangelismos An old, all-day bar for locals and celebrities alike, Mai Tai also serves wine at its bar. The music is good, but the place is rather narrow and can get too crowded on weekends. Tables are placed outdoors.

05

Paplou 45 Patriarchou Ioakeim Street & Ploutarchou Street / Metro: Evangelismos Named after the first two letters of the streets it is located on, this mainstream bar holds several musical events during the week, as 06

Vrettos 41 Kydathinaion Street, 210-3232110 / Metro: Monastiraki One of the oldest distilleries in the city and one that respects its clientele. The wooden barrels and shelves are packed with colourful liqueur bottles and it is one of the best places in the area to have a good drink.

You may also buy bottles of liqueur.

03

6 D.O.G.S. 6-8 Avramiotou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3232135 Hidden in the narrow Avramiotou Street, this venue is literally within a three-minute walk from 04

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

77

nings. Its drinks are brought in huge glasses.

Kokkinos Lotos 5 Zoodohou Pigis Street, 210-3801380 / Metro: Omonia With its Asian décor and red walls, this small bar always attracts the attention of passers-by. The crowd here is artistic and appreciates the ultra-cheap drinks, that cost just 3.20 Euros.

04

The Drugstore 10 Arahovis Street & Ippokratous Street / Metro: Omonia The only drug you might need here is an aspirin, if you stare too long at the dizzying black-and-white floor tiles. The menu says that coming here is ‘cheaper than staying home’, which I guess may be true if you order take-out. A simple drink costs 3.50 Euros.

05

O Kipos Tis Kalashnikov 87 Emmanouil Benaki Street, 210-3813685 / Metro: Omonia Kalashnikov’s Garden (Kipos) is a multi-venue that plays rock music and hosts live gigs and exhibitions.

06

Kazu 3 Mavromihali Street, 210-3602242 / Metro: Omonia Tiny Kazu is a favourite bar for an early drink.

07

Circus Monastiraki Square. The three-room building houses a couple of bars, a slightly claustrophobic concert venue, and a hidden all-day open-air café, located down the neon-lit staircase. It mainly entertains twentysomething youngsters who crowd the rooms and eventually spill out onto the street, taking over benches and pavements.

James Joyce Pub 12 Astingos Street, Monastiraki, 210-3235055 A classic Irish pub in a quiet side-street of Monastiraki.

The wooden-panelled pub has a long list of imported beers and some very hearty burgers and sandwitches on offer, as well as a few tables outside which are rarely empty. During the winter, it attracts some British and Irish expats craving a cold beer and maybe a football 05

78

The Good Life

match on the large TV screens.

LUX (Written Λουξ) 9 Thessalonikis Street, Thissio / Metro: Thissio Situated right next to the train tracks, this friendly café-bar offers great value for money for an evening drink, or just a cup of coffee. Sitting at a table on the pedestrian Thessalonikis Street, you have a view of the tall chimney of Technopolis cultural centre, just behind the trees, across the street.

06

Exarchia luxus 27, Valtetsiou Street, 213-0047353 / Metro: Omonia Entering this small bistrotcocktail bar takes you back to the 30’s, when art-deco 01

was in full swing and bars played jazz. Great coffee and light meals are served in daytime, and in the evening, Luxus’ experienced bartenders start serving perfect, sui generis cocktails, some of which are made of organic ingredients.

Alexandrino 69A Emmanuil Benaki Street, 210-3827780 / Metro: Omonia The first thing you need to know about this classy café-bar is that it’s usually full. The second is that it serves delicious baguettes and good French wine to its artistic customers.

02

Circus 11 Navarinou Street, 210-3615255 / Metro: Omonia A successful blend of café and café-bar housed in a neoclassical house, Circus is usually packed in the eve03

Habeat 44 Themistokleous Street / Metro: Omonia This bar is a testimony to Exarchia’s alternative reputation. Habeat is an odd creature, both a bar and a vinyl store. The DJs play music only with vinyl records, which they also sell at the first floor and drinks are super cheap.

08

Ginger Ale Exarchia Square, 2103301246 / Metro: Omonia With its odd mix-and-match of furniture, Ginger Ale is a standard hangout for locals.

09

Metaxourghio Barrio 53 Keramikou Street, 210-5246564 / Metro: 01

Keramikos It opens early starting with coffee and fruit juices and continues with soul and funk music through the night.

Bios

Cabaret Voltaire 30 Marathonos Street, 210-5227046 / Metro: Metaxourghio A successful combination of different elements –a restaurant, a bar, a theatre and a good music venue.

02

Pangrati & Mets Galaxy Bar 46 Vasilissis Sofias Street, Hilton Hotel, 2107281000 Hilton hotel houses the urban chic Galaxy with its celebrated 180˚ view of the city. If you arrive early (before 9 p.m.) you might be able to find a table on the veranda. Its drinks and cocktail menu is long and impressive, but very expensive, too.

01

Bobayo 1 Arditou Street, Mets, 210-9219397 This elongated bar-restaurant is hidden on the Arditou islet, created in a lush green garden and decorated with colourful lanterns. The DJ plays mainstream music and fires up the mood.

Gazi College

Mai Tai

Tokyo

02

Gazi / Keramikos The old run-down area has been transformed into an uber trendy neighbourhood, which caters to the needs of its ever-moving crowds.

Gazi is a quiet neighbourhood during the day, but as the evening approaches, groups of people and couples emerge from the metro station and disappear in the nearby mezedopolia and bars for an early drink. By midnight, the streets are filled with people who rush to grab a couple of seats in one of the area’s bars. For all the venues mentioned below,

the closest metro station is Keramikos, unless otherwise stated.

Gazi College 01 53 Persefonis Street, 210-3422112 This large New York-style bar has been the choice for all-day hangouts in the area since its opening. There are filling salads and street-food to nibble on while you wait for your fresh cocktail and a floor-to-ceiling library right behind you to pass your time while you are waiting for your friends.

Additional points for keeping the smoking ban.

A Liar Man 2 Sofroniou Street, Gazi, 210-3426332 Walk inside the narrow Sofroniou Street and find this taverna-looking bar at number two. Its jazzy music and Mediterranean-style décor – and food – have made 02

it a very popular hangout place.

Hoxton Bar 42 Voutadon Street, 210-3413395 When you feel like pumping up the volume, head into the main square and walk into Hoxton, a tribute to its namesake in London. The backdrop is industrial with leather couches and cement walls. It houses alternating artwork, gigs and parties and opens out on the pavement.

03

Tora K44 44 Konstantinoupoleos Street, 210-3423560 An industrial venue with scarce but stylish furniture plays great music and features DJ sets and parties.

04

Micraasia 70 Konstantinoupoleos Street, 1st floor, Gazi, 2103469139 05

Every summer, this bar welcomes people to its cute terrace with its theatrical set-up and its homey atmosphere. After a dizzying climb up the red metallic staircase, you find yourself on a beautifully decorated, open-air sitting area with a view of the train tracks.

Nixon 61B Agisilaou Street, 210-3462077 Urban chic décor and separate booths set the tone in this trendy multi-venue.

Nixon serves well-made cocktails, delicious burgers and great music. The large glass windows allow full street view.

06

Bios 84 Pireos Street, Gazi, 210-3425335 Further up Pireos street is the trend setting multivenue which houses DJ sets, theatre performances, 07

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

79

cultural events, and serves the best mojito in town.

With an impeccable 70’s urban environment, it opens its terrace to the thirsty public.

coffee and light lunch during the day and a low-key bar serving caipirinhas and mojitos to the sound of Brazilian melodies during the night.

Intrepid Fox 08 50 Triptolemou Street, 210-3466055 An English rock-metal pub in the centre of Athens, with a wide selection of beers and live gigs. There’s a pool table too.

Klouvi 02 57 Dimofondos Street & Kithadinon Street, Petralona, 210-347999 The name of this place means “cage”, but you will not feel trapped at all. Small and friendly, Klouvi plays jazz music and draws customers right after dinner.

Gazaki 31 Triptolemou Street, 210-5227046 One of the first bars to open in Gazi, it’s wooden, cosy and crowded.

09

Gazarte 32-34 Voutadon Stret, 210-3460347 This bar certainly has one of the best views of downtown Athens from its large roof-top terrace. Visit Gazarte for an early drink, as it can get pretty crowded later on.

09

Socialista 33 Triptolemou Street, 210-3474733 Join Athens’ youth in this excellent venue for mainstream music, live Greek bands and good drinks.

10

Kerameio 27 Plateon Street, Keramikos, 210-3464221 This café-bar has a friendly atmosphere and is mainly preferred by college students and locals who wish to avoid the noise and hype of nearby Gazi. Drinks include beers and rakomelo (raki and honey) while the bar often hosts DJ sets and other events.

11

Nipiagoghio 12 8 Kleanthous Street & Elasidon Street, 2103458534 This “kindergarten” is not for kids. DJs play hip-hop and funk in a playful environment.

Petralona Vraziliana 4 Arkadon Street, Merkouri square, Ano Petralona, 210-7108428 / Metro: Petralona An all-day venue offering 01

80

The Good Life

Psyrri One Happy Cloud 12 Aristofanous Street, 210-3222256 For the first drink of the night, try this small bar with its acid jazz mixes and friendly bartenders.

01

Cubanita 28 Karaiskaki Street, 210-3314605 As soon as you enter this popular joint you feel like a guest in a house in Havana.

Great for a second round of drinks and maybe some salsa dancing. The cocktail menu invites you to select among a wide range of specialties with mojitos being more prominent. There’s also a restaurant but it’s closed for the summer.

02

Philipp 03 4 Tombazi Street, 213 0325624, Metro: Monastiraki An amazing aquarium is the centre of attention in this classic style champagne bar.

SyntagmaCommercial centre (Emporiko Trigono) Baba Au Rum 6 Klitiou Street, 6948 242455 / Metro: Syntagma The first bar to revive the love for top-quality cocktails, mint-coloured Baba has an amazing range of cocktails, rare brands of rum, surprisingly good food served until 11.00 p.m. and 01

professional barmen who can prepare pretty much anything you ask of them.

Happily, it is also smokefree.

Pop 10B Klitiou Street, 6980 397976 / Metro: Syntagma Definately one of the hipest places in town.

02

The Gin Joint 1 Christou Lada, Platia Karitsi, Syntagma, 210-3218646 / Metro: Panepistimio Do you like gin? So does this tiny, retro-style bar which opened recently to teach Athenians the authentic gin cocktails as they were served in the 1920s and beyond. Black and white décor, big-band and jazz music, and its peculiar cocktail glasses make it stand out.

03

Bartessera 25 Kolokotroni, 210-3229805 / Metro: Panepistimio Tucked away in an arcade, this is an all-day bar that hosts exhibitions and live events.

04

42 3 Kolokotroni , 6948 242455 / Metro: Syntagma Amazing coctails by award winning bartenders.

05

Galaxy 10 Stadiou, 2103227733 / Metro: Syntagma Not to be confused with posh Galaxy Bar at the Athens Hilton, this is a classic American bar and a haven for after-work drinks and quiet conversations.

06

Toy café 10 Karitsi, Plateia Karitsi, 210-3311555 / Metro: Panepistimio The usual after-work hangout for journalists and people in the media business. If you go early (before 10.00 p.m.) sit on the stools next to the large window.

07

Pairi Daeza 3 Parnasou, Karitsi Sq, 210-3210233 / Metro: Panepistimio The name means “paradise” in Iranian. Opens early and gets livelier in the evenings.

08

Socialista

Bacaro 1 Sofokleous Street, 210-3211882, Metro: Panepistimio Industrial décor and impeccable service in a bar-restaurant favoured by bank executives who work in the area. The Athens Stock Exchange used to be right across the street.

09

Oinoscent 44A Voulis Street, 210-3229374 / Metro: Syntagma Come into this tiny wine bar and store and try a glass of wine from its exquisite collection from all over the world.

10

Mavili SquareAmbelokipi Santa Botella 115A Panormou Street, 210-6981032 / Metro: Panormou The colourful mosaic terrace attracts 01

Flower 2 Doryleou Street, 210-6432111 / Metro: Megaro Mousikis A classic hangout bar of Mavili square, it gathers 30/40-somethings and even serves lunch.

02

Laura’s 7 Soutsou Street, Mavili Sq, 210-6428473 / Metro: Megaro Mousikis Legendary bar, an integral part of the square and loved by local residents. Low key and relaxed.

03

best bets for a quiet night out. Dress code is casual.

Glyfada Balux –The House Project 58 Poseidonos Avenue, Asteras Glyfadas, 2108983577 / www.baluxcafe. com / Tram: Kolimvitirio This venue is in a category of its own. The creators of Balux decided this year there’s no place like home.

Thus they remodelled the well-know venue into a proper - rich man’s- home.

This house seems to have no end – and no walls. There’s a living room to sit and chat with friends, a playroom to improve your skills in pool or play cardboard games, a telly to watch your favourite TV series, a modern kitchen with a long wooden bench, a dining room to dine in style and a massive bar to complete your evening.

There’s also a bedroom with, ehm, beds. Of course no house would be complete without its garden. Balux’s garden opens on the seaside with tables arranged around white tents. The venue’s even got a playground for kids with a large pool next to it. Did I mention it also has a library?

01

Palio Faliro Cruiser Flisvos Marina, Palio Faliro, 210-9821494, Tram: Marina Flisvou, Trocadero A chic cocktail and wine bar in a Monaco-styled marina, with wooden decoration.

01

Skipper’s Inside Marina Kalamakiou, Palio Faliro Skipper’s is a quiet café-bar for an early drink. It’s wooden deck and sea view marks it out as one of the 02

Intrepid Fox

Kifisia Semiramis Bar 48 Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Kefalari, 2106284500, Train: Kifisia Inside the neon-coloured Semiramis hotel, there is a bar-restaurant serving tapas, regular menu food and cocktails to its well-heeled clientele.

01

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

81

Clubs parties and trance music events.

Glyfada W Poolside Dreams Diadohou Pavlou B’, 2nd Marina Glyfadas, Glyfada, 210-8944048 / Open Thur-Sat / Entrance: Fri 10 Euros, Sat 15 Euros / Bottle of whiskey: Fri 100 Euros, Sat 110 Euros /Tram: 2nd station of Aghios Kosmas.

Youngsters prefer it for its upbeat music, impressive layout and kingsize pool.

Parties every Thursday and Sunday.

01

B.E.D. Boutique Yaya 58 Poseidonos Avenue, Asteras Glyfadas, 2108941620 / Entrance Friday: 10 Euros and one drink, whiskey bottle: Fri 90 Euros, 110 Euros / Entrance Sat: 12 Euros, whiskey bottle 100 Euros, 110 Euros / Closed on Monday Three Athenian clubs are housed under one roof and are ready to make you dance. The club will hold R n’B and house parties and dance nights.

02

There are two kinds of clubs: The large open-air venues playing electronic/dance music and the big bouzoukia clubs - large venues where Greek singers perform live.

In the summer season, most of these establishments are found in the southern suburbs of Athens, from Ellinikon to Glyfada. Poseidonos Avenue is packed with traffic at midnight as cars bottleneck outside popular venues to drop off groups of overdressed youths.

Some nightclubs also have a dining area so you can eat first and then move on to the bar. The music in these venues is usually mainstream, meaning they play mostly radio dance, pop and RnB hits, in order to please the average customer, while after 3a.m. there’s a good chance for the play list to switch into Greek laika.

Bouzoukia is the ultimate frontier in Greek entertainment. If you want a taste of Greek subculture, this is it. Bouzoukia joints resemble large concert halls whose “arena” is packed with tables for seated customers.

There is also a bar for those who prefer to stand, or want to avoid the steep booking price for a table. The shows usually include gigs by flashily dressed singers that alternate with dance act interludes. Also known as skyladika (“doghouse”), they attract a fiercely loud clientele.

It would be useful to mention that in spite of the smoking ban, you are bound to see people smoking their cigar and after a few hours, the atmosphere can get quite stuffy. After all, smoking was always part of the deal.

Despite popular belief, smashing plates is a thing of the past. Whether you choose a dance club or bouzoukia, the action starts after 11.30p.m. and the entrance fee plus a drink at the bar will set cost back about 15 Euros. Booking a table (which includes at least one bottle of whiskey) costs about 100 Euros.

Both types of clubs apply a strict dress code and will not let you in if you’re casual (no flip-flops, sweaters and shorts), so dress up and smile at the doorman.

82

The Good Life

Dance clubs Aghios Kosmas Akrotiri 5 Vasileos Georgiou Street, Aghios Kosmas beach, Elliniko, 6933003121, Wed: RnB party, Thu: commercial house party Sweet Kiss, Fri: So Delicious, Sun: Greek music / Open Wed-Sun / Bottle of whiskey 110-120 Euros /Tram: 2nd station of Aghios Kosmas.

An open air club with glitzy décor idyllically set up next to the beach. Show off our new clothes with the other celebrities while you sway to the latest dance music.

The highlight of the venues’ events is undoubtebly a gig by the hip-hop, house band Black Eyed Peas, who will be performing live on June 20th.

Prices and ticket sales have not been announced yet.

01

Alimos Ammos Beach Palaia Loutra Alimou, before Aghios Kosmas, 210-985584, Whiskey bottle: €90, €100 / Tram: Kalamaki A white, minimal bar right on the beach, it hosts 01

Varkiza Island bar-restaurant 27th klm of AthensSounio Avenue, Limanakia Vouliagmenis, Varkiza, 210-9653563/4, Meals: 52-65 Euros, food served until 1.30 a.m. / bottle of whiskey 100-120 Euros.

This gorgeous venue is way outside Athens towards Sounio, but it’s worth the trip. The crowd is made up of well-heeled 30- and 40-somethings who like to combine eclectic cuisine with their drinks. Its luxurious Cycladic-style architecture makes you feel you are where the name suggests.

The restaurant serves Mediterranean dishes with a modern take and is worth the try if only to watch the sun set from the terrace. It employs a strict face control policy, so dress to impress.

Booking is required.

01

Cinema Although there are quite a few multiplex cinemas in Athens, the king of summer is the open-air cinema, a fashion that adheres perfectly with the outdoor culture of the city. Watching a movie while staring at the stars beats cramming yourself in an anonymous multiplex anytime. Located on rooftop terraces, gardens or jammed between apartment blocks, they are the best bet for a quiet night out and have become a trademark of Athenian summer culture. Some open-air cinemas serve alcohol like beer, sangria, or even whiskey, while a water-ice is considered de rigueur. If you’re hungry, you’ll definitely find some pizza, souvlaki or nachos with cheese to keep your mouth busy while you watch the silver screen. Most importantly, movies in Greece are not dubbed so foreigners will have no problem following the plot.

Open-air cinemas Dexameni Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, 210-3623942 / Metro: Evangelismos This is a beautiful cinema hidden within the lush vegetation of Dexamenis Square, with a large screen and a loyal clientele.

01

Athinaia-Vitex 50 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7215717 / Metro: Evangelismos Favoured by local residents, it’s right next to the mini 02

bar-scene of Haritos Street.

black and white movies.

Cine Psyrri 03 44 Sarri Street, Psyrri, 210-3215534 / Metro: Monastiraki Part of Kouzina restaurant, it is a modern place which offers, except for good movies, sangria and great strawberry water-ice.

Riviera 05 46 Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia, 210-3837716 / Metro: Omonia Couples and students prefer Riviera for its artsy movies and the smell of the massive jasmine plant.

Thision 04 7 Apostolou Pavlou Street, Thissio, 2103470980 / Metro: Thisio Situated in a prime location with a view of the Parthenon, it usually plays classic

Cine Paris 22 Kidathineon Street, Plaka, 210-3222071 / Metro: Syntagma In the centre of popular Plaka, with an unbeatable view of the Acropolis. Greeks and tourists cram outside 06

for a ticket, so make sure you arrive early.

Aigli Zappio Gardens, Syntagma, 210-3369369 / Metro: Syntagma, Tram: Zappio Classy Aigli is one of the few cinemas where you can watch blockbusters and has the added advantage of a café and a restaurant being located nearby. The canteen sells anything from pop-corn to souvlaki and sangria.

07

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

83

Gay & Lesbian Although Greek people may not be accustomed to public expressions of homosexuality, Greek society is decisively adopting an open-minded disposition towards gays and lesbians. In the past few years, Athens has seen the development of a vocal and active gay and lesbian community, with most of its activities revolving around the urban neighbourhood of Gazi. When gentrification of the area commenced more than a decade ago, it witnessed the establishment of openly gay bars and clubs, which have since enjoyed great success (previously there were only a few bars in the area of Makriyanni.)

With the exception of few gay-and-lesbian-strictly venues, most establishments in the area are gay-friendly and open-to-all, making Gazi one of the most “open-minded” neighbourhoods of Athens.

Athens Pride 2012 Since 2005, Athens has joined in celebration of LBGT rights with an annual Pride parade, which this year falls on the 9th of June. Participation has steadily increased each year, with cultural events being planned around the main event. The official parade starts at 6 p.m. in Klafthmonos Square (Metro: Panepistimio), but live DJ sets and performances start as early as 10 a.m. More details will be announced through the official website: www.athenspride.eu

Bookstores, free press & websites The bookstore Colourful Planet (6 Antoniadou Emmanouil, Pedion Areos, 210-8826600/ www.colourfulplanet.gr) specialises in LGBT publications.

You can get up-to-date information on the LBGT scene, parties and events throughout the city with Antivirus magazine (www.avmag.gr), freely distributed in all venues mentioned below. You could also pick up a copy of the Greek gay travel magazine and guide DEON, or read it online at www.deon.gr. Articles and more information on gay life in Athens can be accessed at www.gayathens.gr/en/.

Girls may also check www.lesbian.gr, a Greek site with topics ranging from news and politics to shopping and safe sex, or access www.sapphogr.net, a site loaded with extensive information on lesbian lifestyle in Athens (though the site is somewhat hard to navigate).

84

The Good Life

Cafés & allday bars S-Cape café 75 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3452751 / Metro: Keramikos Unlike the namesake club, this is a place to have a quiet cup of coffee watching the trains of the nearby intercity railway go by.

01

Blue Train 84 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3460677 / www.bluetrain.gr / Metro: Thissio Urban décor and relaxed atmosphere in this long established café-bar.

02

Kirki 31 Apostolou Pavlou Street, Thissio, 2103466960 / Metro: Thissio Enjoy an afternoon coffee here, with the Acropolis as a backdrop.

03

Restaurants Kanela 70 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3476320 / Metro: Keramikos A modern tavern serving delicious Greek fare –prepared in avant-garde fashion. The courgette salad is super fresh, and the lentil and feta salad will thrill you. The ideal place to start your evening in Gazi.

01

Prosopa 84 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3413443 / www.prosopa.gr / Metro: Keramikos A popular restaurant, which is open to the street, allowing for excellent eye contact with passersby.

which attracts a younger crowd. It hosts karaoke nights every Monday, underwear nights on Tuesdays, drag-show nights every Wednesday and wild parties ever so often. After a certain hour, music shifts from mainstream to Greek.

this is the bar to live it. Big, hairy men and their admirers have made this venue an unpretentious hangout.

Lamda club 15 Lembesi Street, Syngrou Avenue, Makriyanni, 210-6224202, closed 06

Mayo

FCUK 3 Keleou Street, Gazi, 210-3474852 / Opens after 9 p.m. / Metro: Keramikos Exclusively for cruising, it has a dark room, large screen showing gay hardcore movies and attic with cabins.

Lesbian Prosopa

Noiz 70 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3424771 / Metro: Keramikos A darkish club strictly for women; turns lively quite late.

01

Bars & Clubs

Mayo 33 Persefonis Street, Gazi, 210-3423066 / Opens 2100 till late / Metro: Keramikos In the heart of Gazi, Mayo is a popular gay hangout with a small rooftop terrace and friendly service. It’s usually packed on weekends and the beat picks up after 11p.m.

02

S-CAPE club 139 Megalou Alexadrou & Iera Odos Street, Gazi, 210-3411003 / Entrance: €7.50 / Metro: Thissio You will be spoilt for choice in this huge venue, 03

Second Skin 78 Konstantinoupoleos Street & Iera Odos, Gazi, 6974 140013 / Metro: Keramikos Darkwave, electro and industrial in style, it features plenty of thematic nights – most involving leather.

10

11

02

Sodade 01 10 Triptolemou Street, Gazi, 210-3458657 / Entrance: €7.50 / www.sodade.gr / Metro: Keramikos A hugely successful dance club, where stylish, goodlooking men mix and dance freely. House music in the back room and contemporary Greek music in the front. It can get pretty crowded on weekends.

Monastiraki Industrial chic bar, attracts a trendy crowd looking for upbeat music and a chance to flirt.

Sappho 35 Megalou Alexandrou & Yatrakou Street, Metaxourghio, 6993 982803-4 / Metro: Metaxourghio An excellent all-day hangout, serves coffee, ouzo, snacks and drinks later on. It’s cheap too.

02

Micraasia 70 Konstantinoupoleos Street, 1st floor, Gazi, 210-3469139 / Metro: Keramikos Micraasia’s strong card is its beautiful rooftop terrace decorated with flowers and tee lights all around, reachable from a winding wrought iron staircase.

This bar is established in an old house whose previous owners were immigrants from Asia Minor (thus the name). The atmosphere is relaxed and cocktails keep coming.

04

Big 12 Falesias Street, Votanikos, 6946 28285 / Metro: Keramikos The bear scene is gaining momentum in Athens and 05

in Aug. / Metro: Acropolis There’s a lively dark room downstairs, covered in velvet.

Kazarma Club 84 Konstantinoupoleos Street, Gazi, 210-3460667 / www.kazarma.gr / Metro: Keramikos Anyone who’s anyone ends up there, a mixed crowd of all shapes and sizes. It has a terrace, too.

07

Fou Club 8 Keleou Street, Gazi, 210-3466800 / Entrance: €7.50 / Metro: Thisio A small bar that loves heavy Greek music, keeps pumping well into the night.

08

Mybar 6 Kakourgodikiou Street, Psiri, 6932 338551, 6944 862161 / Metro: 09

Onar Estin 2 Elassidon & Pireos Street, Gazi, 6938 820313 / Metro: Keramikos For girls and their partners who want to party; it can get very busy on the weekend.

03

Sauna Alexander sauna & gym 34 Megalou Alexandrou Street, Gazi, 6936959134 / Metro: Keramikos A place to enjoy sauna, or the occasional pick up.

01

Flex sauna gym 6 Poliklitou Street, Monastiraki, 210-3219539 / €10 / Metro: Monastiraki Open every day, it features different thematic nights.

02

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

85

Useful Numbers Emergencies POLICE: 100 AMBULANCE: 166 FIRE: 199 TOURIST POLICE: 171

Hospitals Evangelismos 01 Hospital 45-47 Ipsilantou, Kolonaki, 210-7201000 / Metro: Evangelismos Major public hospital, centrally located.

Eginitio Hospital 72-74 Vasilissis Sophias Avenue, 210-7220811-3 / Metro: Megaro Mousikis Public hospital, centrally located 02

Ippokratio 03 114 Vasilissis Sophias Avenue, 210-7483770 / Metro: Ampelokipi Public hospital, centrally located Metropolitan 04 Hospital Ethnarchou Makariou & 1

86

The Good Life

Eleftheriou Venizelou, Neo Faliro, Telephone centre: 210-4809000, Emergency: 210-4809199 / Metro: Syngrou-Fix, then taxi Private hospital, situated five minutes from Intercontinental Hotel

Tourist information Greek National Tourist Organisation (GNTO) Known as EOT in Greek.

Offices: 18 Dionysiou Aeropaghitou Street, 2103310392 / Metro: Acropolis Hrs: Mon-Fri 8 a.m.- 8 p.m., Sat-Sun 10a.m.-4p.m.

The GNTO office, sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, is the place to ask for any travel information regarding Athens and Greece.

01

Transport Air Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Flight information (all airlines): 210-3530000 Access: Metro Line 3, trains to airport run every 30 minutes, tickets cost €8 / Suburban railway (proastiakos) from Larissa Station Metro station / Bus X95 departs from Syntagma square, bus X96 from Piraeus and bus X97 from Dafni Metro station, tickets cost €5.

Website: www.aia.gr 01

Boats ports Piraeus Port (main port of Athens, all destinations): Dial 210-4147800 for general information 01

Rafina port (Akti Andrea Papandreou, www.rafinaport.gr): for trips to Andros, Tinos, 02

Myconos, Paros, Naxos, Evia. Call 171 for information in English.

Main ferry and hydrofoil companies: All companies at: www. ferries.gr Hellenic Seaways 210-4131111, www. hellenicseaways.gr 01

Blue Star Ferries 210-3226400, www. bluestarferries.com 02

Minoan Lines 210-4145700, www. minoan.gr 03

City transport - Metro, bus, tram, train Daily commuting has immensely improved since the opening of the Metro subway in 2000, which continues to expand southwards and westwards.

The regular ticket costs €1.40 and can be used

for an hour-and-a-half upon validation towards any direction (except the airport) combining Metro, bus, tram or ISAP trains (green line). If you plan to travel solely by bus, tram, or an ISAP train you can buy the €1.20 priced ticket, which is valid only for one way. Students and senior citizens over 65 are eligible for half-price tickets.

If you’re coming or going to the airport, you need to buy an €8 priced ticket, whereas transportation on the suburban railway (Proastiakos) to Pallini, Paiania-Katza, Koropi costs 4 Euros.

There is also a day ticket valid for all forms of transportation at 4 Euros and a week ticket at 14 Euros (both exclude travelling towards to and from the airport and to bus stations beyond

Varkiza). Tickets can be purchased in all Metro, tram and train station ticket booths, as well as from the automated machines located in every station.

For more information about Athens Metro tickets and routes you can visit: www.amel.gr. For information on tramlines visit: www.tramsa.gr

Long-distance coaches (KTEL)

KTEL coaches are quite common means of transport throughout Greece, since they are cheap, clean and with regular daily services. However recently the old KTEL website (www.ktel.org) - which used to provide free information on all KTEL routes to and from Athens - has been replaced by a phone service (Tel: 14505) provided only in Greek. It is thus advisable to request assistance from

your hotel reception in order to book your ticket in advance, or to arrive at the terminal early (at least half hour before departure) and buy your tickets on the spot. Coach terminals are located at Peloponnesos Station, which is a short distance from Larissis Metro Station. Below are phone numbers and addresses to the main long-distance terminals operating in Athens, but keep in mind that there is no guarantee that the employee answering the phone will speak English. There is also a KTEL service for wider Attica, covering routes to and from Sounio, Rafina port, Marathon and Nea Makri.

Terminals A 100 Kifissou Street, Peristeri 210-5124910 – For coaches to the Peloponnesos, western Greece and Thessaloniki 01

Terminal B 260 Liosion Street, Peristeri 210-8317096 – For coaches to central and Northern Greece 02

KTEL Attikis (travelling within wider Attica) – Offices: 68 Patision Avenue & 2 Kotsika Street, 210-8808080 / for coaches to Sounio, Rafina, Marathon, Nea Makri: Station at Mavromateon Street, Pedion tou Areos. Services run from 5.45am to 9:30 p.m.

03

Trains

Tickets for long distance train services are issued by the Greek Railways Association, known as OSE and can be bought online at www.ose.gr/en/ Home.aspx, or at OSE’s ticket booths located at the central Larissis Station, from where trains to all destinations depart.

The station is also accessible through Metro Larissa Station.

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

87

Hotels, Hostels, Camping New Hotel

and architecture resembles an island setting. The secluded and deluxe suites and bungalows are extremely popular with international celebrities. The best way to reach the resort is by taxi (destination Lagonisi).

Athens Hilton 46 Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, 210-7281000, €271 breakfast included (call for offers on rates in July and August), wifi for €18 per day / www.hilton.com / Metro: Evangelismos This all-time classic celebrity destination since the 60s has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory.

Amenities include sports facilities, a spa, an open-air pool and the well-known Greek seafood restaurant Milos.

04

Electra Palace 18 Navarchou Nikodimou Street, Plaka, 210-3370000, €225 rooms with a view to the Acropolis, €180 standard room, breakfast included, wifi for €10, free use of pools / www. electrahotels.gr / Metro: Syntagma Classically styled hotel strategically located in Plaka.

View to the Acropolis Hill offered in front rooms.

05

The following list is merely indicative of the wide range of accommodation in Athens. As a result of the recession, many boutique hotels have lowered their prices in an effort to attract weekend visitors, placing themselves for the first time in the budget category. All prices refer to the rate for a double room per night, unless stated otherwise. Luxury hotels usually include breakfast in their price (a buffet), other establishments usually charge extra. Accommodation is categorised by price range: Upscale (above 200 Euros), midrange to upscale (100-200 Euros) and budget to mid-range (up to 100 Euros). Prices shown here are for the high season, which is from mid-July till late August.

Upscale Hotel Grande Bretagne 1 Vasileos Georgiou Street, Syntagma Square, 2103330833, standard room €271 breakfast included, free wifi / www.grandebretagne.gr / Metro station: Syntagma Grandeur is the word for this historic hotel smack in the middle of Syntagma Square. Locals and tourists alike visit its famous spa, as well as the GB roof garden 01

88

The Good Life

restaurant overlooking the entire city. Another reason to book your accommodation here is that after the third night, the next one is free!

King George II Palace Syntagma Square, 2103222210, €219 for Syntagma views, €159 for Voukourestiou Str. Views, breakfast included, free wifi / www.classicalhotels.com/ kinggeorgepalace / Metro station: Syntagma.

Situated right next to Grande Bretagne, offers a 02

similar take on luxury. Their suites are richly decorated, offering spectacular views over Syntagma Square.

During the weekend, chic Athenians frequent its Tudor Hall restaurant and T-Palace lounge bar-restaurant.

Grand Resort Lagonissi 40km Athens Sounio, Lagonissi, 229 1076000, Central building €250, €388 bungalow (both include breakfast), free wifi / www.lagonissiresort.gr A resort in every sense.

Its exceptional location 03

Hotel Pentelikon 66, Diliyianni Street, Kifisia, 210-6230650-6, €250 breakfast included (call for offers during the summer), wifi charged extra / http://www.pentelikon.gr/ hotel/en/home.asp / Train: Kifisia, or by taxi This opulent and classy hotel in leafy Kifisia offers a perfect pool to match its status. The large pool area is perfect for a drink in the afternoon, while in summer breakfast is served on a beautiful terrace. As an extra perk, the hotel houses the Michelin-star restaurant Vardis.

06

Astir Palace Vouliagmeni 40, Apollonos Street, Vouliagmeni, 210-8902000, €366 rooms with sea views, breakfast included, free wifi in public areas, charged extra in rooms / www.astirpalace.com / Best reached by taxi (give the taxi driver the name of the hotel).

A beautiful resort sprawled across a large peninsula at the southern part of Attica; it prides itself for featuring the top-notch Japanese Matsuhisa restaurant. Cape Sounio, with its majestic Poseidon Temple is 35 klm away.

Periscope

07

Ava Hotel 9-11, Lysikratous Street, Plaka, 210-3259000, €193 regular with breakfast, €278 with Acropolis view, €338 with veranda and Acropolis view / www.avahotel.gr / Metro: Syntagma Staff is extremely accommodating and the location is unbeatable – within the cobbled Plaka streets. All rooms are actually suites, with their own little kitchen, some offer direct view over the Acropolis.

02

Semiramis Hotel 48 Trikoupi Street, Kifisia, 210-6284400, €185 during weekend, €195 for weekdays, both include breakfast, free wifi, use of pool, gym included / http:// www.yeshotels.gr/node/3 / ISAP train to: Kifisia.

03

New Hotel 16 Fillelinon Street, Syntagma Sq, 210-3273200, €195 incudes breakfast, €175 offer for July-August if you pay the full amount in advance, free wifi, hamam / www.yeshotels.gr / Metro: Syntagma The newest addition to the YES! Hotels chain. Book a room if you are looking to move around Syntagma square and the surrounding shopping area, with restaurants and transportation at your feet.

08

Mid-range to upscale Sofitel 01 Athens International Airport, Spata, 2103544000, €193 without breakfast, €150 if you pay full amount 15 days ahead of arrival, free wifi / www. sofitel.com / Metro: Airport An ideal place to book your accommodation, if you are visiting for business, or visiting over the weekend.

Rooms are immaculate, spacious and guarantee a good night’s sleep. Situated virtually 50 metres from the arrival and departure terminals and about 28 klm from the centre of Athens.

during the summer, wifi for €15 / www.sglycabettus.gr / Metro: Evangelismos A safe choice in the posh area of Kolonaki, features the Frame garden bar-restaurant, a popular summer hangout at the ground floor, as well as Le Grand Balcon restaurant for formal dining and spectacular view over Athens.

Semiramis Hotel Grande Bretagne

Intercontinental 89-93 Syngrou Anenue, 210-9206000, €155 superior, breakfast included, €138 without breakfast, wifi for €20, pool / www. intercontinental.com / Metro: Syngrou-Fix, then taxi (5 minutes) This established hotel chain offers everything you would expect; buffet breakfast, pool, health centre, spa and spacious luxury rooms, as well as fine dining in the ‘Premiere’ rooftop restaurant.

09

Design guru Karim Rashids’ trademark neon colors put a smile on the faces of its guests from the moment they open their eyes in this stylish establishment.

Periscope 04 22 Haritos Street, Kolonaki, 210-7297200, €150 breakfast included, free wifi / http://www. yeshotels.gr/node/6 / Metro: Evangelismos Urban style and minimalism set the tone for this small boutique hotel tucked away in a small street of Kolonaki.

A real periscope on the roof allows visitors to gaze upon Athenian neighborhoods.

Ochre & Brown 7 Leokoriou Street, Psiri, 210-3312950, €150 from 1-15th August, €170 from August 15th onwards, breakfast included, free wifi / www.oandbhotel.com / Metro: Thissio Sleek and hip, this concept 05

hotel is one of its kind in the trendy area of Psyrri.

Though streets around might look a bit sketchy it is actually a safe and incredibly convenient location, and a short walking distance to the Acropolis Museum.

Twenty-One 21 Kolokotroni & Mykonou, Kifisia, 2106233521, €150 breakfast included, free wifi / http:// www.yeshotels.gr/node/4 / Train: Kifisia.

Trendy, uncluttered rooms, individual artwork on the walls and all the usual hip amenities that can be found with this member of YES! Hotels. Ground floor leads to a large wooden-decked terrace.

06

St George Lycabettus 2 Kleomenous, Platia Dexamenis, Kolonaki, 2107416000, €139 (breakfast included), call for offers 07

Hera Hotel 9 Falirou Street, Akropoli, 210-9236682, €130 includes breakfast, free wifi / www.herahotel.gr / Metro: Akropoli Classical style, pristine rooms and an unbeatable view over the Akropolis Hill, which is only a stone throw away.

10

Athens Imperial 1 Achilleos & Megalou Alexandrou Street, Karaiskaki Square, Metaxourghio, 210-3250900, €125, €115 for over three days, €80 if you pay the fuul amount in advance, breakfast included, free wifi / Metro: Metaxourghio Stylish and well- priced, this hotel is located in the heart of Athens.

11

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

89

Budget to Mid-range

King George II Palace

Radisson Blu Pak Hotel 10, Alexandras Avenue, Pedion tou Areos, 2108894500, €104 with breakfast, €88 without breakfast, free wifi /http:// www.radissonblu.com / Metro: Omonia With excellent service and modern rooms, Radisson offers the additional perk of having the National Archaeological Museum and the shops of busy Patission Avenue, right on the step of its glass doors.

01

Central Hotel 21 Apollonos Street, Plaka, 210-3234350, €90 breakfast included, free wifi / www.centralhotel.gr / Metro: Syntagma Contemporary style and an unrestricted view of the Acropolis Hill from the rooftop garden.

Philippos Hotel 3 Mitseon Street, Makriyianni, 210-9223611, €95 breakfast included, wifi for €3 per hour / www. philipposhotel.gr / Metro: Akropoli Strategic location, popular with weekend visitors.

Niki Hotel 27, Nikis Street, Syntagma, 210-3220913-5, €99 breakfast included, free wifi / www.nikihotel.gr / Metro: Syntagma One of the few hotels in Plaka that offers all modern amenities in its stylish rooms and does not rely solely on location.

04

Stratos Vassilikos 114 Mihalakopoulou Avenue, 210-7706611, €79 breakfast included, www. airotel.gr / Metro: Megaro Mousikis The flowery wallpaper that dresses the lobby contrasts with the otherwise muted décor of the hotel, a frequent choice to business travellers. It offers incredible value-for-money rooms and is only a five-minute walk to the National Gallery.

05

06

90

Novotel Athens 4-6 Mikhail Voda

The Good Life

Student & Travellers’ Inn 16 Kydathineon Street, Plaka, 210-3244808, €62 for en suite room, €54 with shared bathroom, both breakfast not included, free wifi in public areas / www. studenttravellersinn.com / Metro: Syntagma All backpackers end up in this cozy Inn, ideally situated in the tourist-friendly neighborhood of Plaka.

12

Hilton

02

03

room / www.athenstyle.com / Metro: Monastiraki A heartbeat away from Psyrri’s slightly run-down but trendy feel, this hostel welcomes guests with its arty vibe and modern amenities. You can choose between a dorm, private rooms or even a flat.

Athens International Youth Hostel 16 Victor Hugo Street, Metaxourghio, 2105232540, €28 for room with 2 beds, €13 with 4 beds, €10 with 6 beds, / http://www.athens-international.com/index.html / Metro: Metaxourghio Helpful international staff will greet you, speaking good English. Offers common rooms, air-conditioning, linen, 24-hour reception and wireless Internet.

13

Street, Athens, 2108200700, €59 without breakfast, €73 with breakfast, free wifi, pool / www. novotel.com Favored by business travelers, offers the added advantage of spacious rooms, a rooftop restaurant and a small rooftop pool with a view. Metro: Omonia or Larissis Station Fresh Hotel 26 Sofokleous & Klisthenous Street, Omonia, 210-5248511, €80 breakfast included, free wifi, use of gym and sauna / www.freshhotel.gr / Metro: Omonia This colorful and ultra-chic oasis in the run-down area of Omonia, offers a fully equipped gym, a swimming pool and an open-air bar on the ninth floor, a lovely respite after a long day in the blistering sun. Cyclist enthusiasts have the opportunity to rent a bike and explore the city on two wheels.

07

Art Gallery Hotel 5 Erechthiou Street, Koukaki, 210-9238376, €90-80 without breakfast, for bookings more than three nights breakfast is included, free wifi / www. artgalleryhotel.gr / Metro: Syngrou-Fix 08

A clean and cozy place, offers great value for money.

Situated in Koukaki neighbourhood, which is within walking distance from Plaka and Thissio.

Acropolis House 6-8 Kodrou Street, Plaka, 210-3222344, €87 breakfast included, free wifi / www.acropolishouse.gr / Metro: Syntagma A family run hotel with devoted clientele, housed in a refurbished neoclassical building.

09

Hotel Areos 19 Bouboulinas Street, Areos Park, 210-8259540/650, €75 breakfast included, free wifi / www.athensareoshotel.gr / Metro: Omonia, or taxi to Pedion tou Areos A brand new and very reasonably priced hotel, located within walking distance to the Archaeological museum. The Areos Park (Pedion tou Areos), though not very well-kept, offers a rare respite to downtown Athenians.

10

Athens Style Hotel 10 Aghias Theklas Street, Monastiraki, 2103225010, €38 per person for private room / €21-25 per person for a shared 11

Camping Athens 198-200 Athinon Avenue, Peristeri, 7th klm of National road AthensCorinthos, 210-5814114, fax 210-5820353, €8.50 for adults, plus €10 for car and tent / www. campingathens.com.gr / info€campingathens.com.gr.

Fully equipped camping site only 7 klm outside of Athens, close to the AthensCorinth motorway. Regular daily bus services take visitors to and from Athens and Piraeus.

14

Camping Nea Kifisia At the corner of Potamou & Dimitsanas Street, Adames, Nea Kifisia, 2108075579, fax 210-8075579 / www.camping-neakifissia. gr / camping€hol.gr.

Large camping site offering all necessary amenities (plus pool), fifteen minutes away from the leafy northern suburb of Kifisia.

15

Food Lexicon General Proino / breakfast mesimeriano / lunch vrathino / dinner akrivo / expensive ftino / cheap logariasmos / bill kratisi / booking pistotiki karta / credit card Eateries Estiatorio / restaurant inomaghirio / cheap, informal, with casserole-cooked dishes taverna / cheap, informal with typical Greek fare mezedopolio / taverna with small dishes (mezedes) souvlatzidiko souvlaki joint patsatzidiko informal, cheap sells patsa-tripe soup Cooking Psito grilled tiganito fried vrasto boiled kapnisto smoked gemisto stuffed ahnisto steamed sti skhara charcoaled sto fourno in the oven marinarismeno marinated liasti, liasto sundried fricassée (orig. French) simmered in gravy with herbs or lettuce saganaki ramekin omo raw kalopsimeno well-cooked metrio medium To describe taste Gliko sweet pikro bitter ksino sour kafto hot or spicey analato without salt halasmeno gone bad krio cold fresco fresh kalo good kako bad nostimo tasty anosto tasteless Meat (Kreas) Moskhari beef kotopoulo chicken hirino pork arni lamb loukaniko sausage bifteki burger brizola chop-steak, T-bone keftes, keftedakia meat balls psaronefri beef loin sikoti liver fileto steak, fillet paidakia lamb chops kondosouvli chuncks of pork

cooked on the spit soutzoukakia meatballs in red spicy sauce kokkinisto beef with tomato sauce mousaka aubergine & minced meat souffle covered in cream sauce pastitsio similar to mousaka, but with macaroni instead of aubergine dolmadakia stuffed wineleaves or cabbage leaves with minced meat & rice yiouvarlakia meatballs stewed in creamy sauce souvlaki meat stuffed in pita bread with different garnishes gyros hirino pork souvlaki gyros kotopoulo chicken souvlaki gyros moskharisios beef souvlaki kalamaki skewered youvetsi roast lamb with pasta and tomatoes galopoula turkey kokoras rooster papia duck stithos kotopoulo chicken breast saligaria escargot patsas tripe soup Vegetables (Lahanika) Domata tomato agouri cucumber karoto carrot lahano cabbage marouli lettuce rapanaki radish elies olives roka rocket kremmithi onion kapari cappers aginara artichoke anithos dill melitzana augergine kolokithi zucchini patata potato spanaki spinach maidanos parsley manitaria mushrooms Vegie dishes Gemista vegetables stuffed with rice fava split peas tzatziki yogurt with cucumber pieces, garlic, olive oil and vinegar arakas fresh peas in tomato sauce, potatoes and carrot kolokithokeftedes fried zucchini balls domatokeftedes fried tomato balls

Other starters Soups Tirokafteri spicy white cheese puree feta psiti baked feta saganaki ramekin (of something) kotosoupa chicken soup fakés lentils trahanas frumenty

with red minced meat sauce lazania lasagne kofto makaronaki small pasta used in youvetsi and other oven-cooked meals rizi rice pita flat round thick bread karveli loaf fetes slices

Salads Horta greens dakos rusks with tomato, feta, olive oil, oregano and olives on top Greek - horiatiki cucumber, tomato, feta, onions, olives, oregano anamikti combination of greens salata psita lahanika grilled vegetables salad

Fruit (Frouto) Karpouzi watermelon peponi melon siko figs portokali orange milo apple kerasi cherries verikoko apricot rothakino peach stafilia grapes ahlathi pear fraoula strawberry ananas pineapple frangosiko prickly pear rothi pomegranate banana banana

Fish (Psari) & seafood (thalassina) Gavros small fish grilled sardela sardines garithes shrimps mithia mussels kalamari calamari fagri sea bream barbouni red mullet tonos tuna heli eel ghialisteres smooth polished oysters bakaliaros bacalau kavouri crab astakos lobster astakomakaronatha spaghetti with lobster chunks ahinos sea urchin skorpios scorpion fish drakena dragonet solomos salmon pestrofa trout Ingredients-Spices (Systatika-Baharika) eleolatho olive oil alati salt piperi pepper ksithi vinegar rigani oregano meli honey thiosmo mint menta spearmint thendrolivano rosemary skortho garlic kanela cinnamon garifalo cloves koukounari pine nuts karithi walnut amigdalo almond zahari sugar Pasta-Rice-Bread (Zimarika-Rizi-Psomi) Makaronia spaghetti makaronia me kima spaghetti

Desserts (Gliko) Gliko tou koutaliou fruit preserves or spoon sweets galaktoboureko very sweet creampie ipovrihio white sticky mastihamade dessert served on spoon and dipped in water pagoto ice cream granita water ice karithopita walnut pie amigthalota amaretto biscuits siropiasta syrupy Anatolian desserts sokolata chocolate Drinks Ouzo strong anise-flavoured alcoholic drink diluted with water and ice tsipouro similar drink without the anise raki cretan version of tsipouro retsina lower quality wine with resin favour bira beer krasi wine kokkino red lefko white /rosé rose mastiha strong, sweet, alcoholic drink with mastiha flavour nero water sotha soda kafes coffee frappé cold, strong coffee with froth and ice himos (fisikos) juice (natural) gala milk anapsiktiko fizzy drink

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

91

Athens map

92

The Good Life

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

93

Metro map

94

The Good Life

The LifO Athens Guide 2012

95

Dangers and Annoyances • Tough austerity measures currently implemented by the government have multiplied the number of strikes taking place in the capital. Check daily with your hotel reception whether public services are not on strike, in case you decide to visit state-run museums and archaeological sites.

• Athens is one of the safest cities in Europe, but it is advisable to take reasonable precautions in order to protect your personal belongings, such as keeping your handbag close to your body and your wallet in an inside pocket. It’s also advisable to avoid walking alone late at night around the areas of Omonia Square and Theatrou Square, since they are badly lit and have been downgraded to drug-addict hangouts over the past few years.

• Though taxi drivers are state and union regulated, some might still try to overcharge you. Ask in advance at the airport or your hotel what would be a reasonable taxi fare to your desired destination.

• Since July 1st 2009 smoking is prohibited in all public and private spaces where people gather, such as restaurants, bars, public waiting areas and taxis. However, as Greek people have been identified as the heaviest smokers of the Europe Union, you may find several places where they are lenient towards smoking. Though still forbidden, taxi drivers often do smoke, so it’s best to remind them of the regulation before they light up.

• Remember to bring bottled water with you before heading to archaeological sites, as on-site cafés and kiosks tend to be pricy.

• Athens is hilly with uneven pavements that tend to get slippery. Wear comfy shoes.

96

The Good Life

Dos and don’ts To paraphrase a well-known proverb, when in Athens, do as the Athenians do to avoid getting yourself into sticky situations. ­• It is customary for Greek people to greet by kissing on both cheeks. Greeks may often be inclined to share personal information even with someone they’ve just met. They might inquire about your marital status, whether you have kids, or your line of work. If asked, you can ask back, and it would be treated as polite conversation. ­• Dress modestly when visiting a church or monastery, by keeping your chest and thighs covered. It is also customary to drop a coin in the donation box near the entrance and light a candle. ­• When invited to someone’s home, it is advisable to bring the host a gift, be it flowers, a bottle of wine or confectionary. ­• If you are a dinner guest, you will probably be asked if you would like to have a second serving. Despite popular belief, it is fine to say “no” -nobody will be offended. ­• There is legislation in Greece forbidding nude bathing.

There are, however, beaches (usually remote) where signs clearly state that nudism is permitted or which have become nudist hangouts by word of mouth. Ask around at your destination for such beaches. The golden rule is to make sure no families are around. ­• It is customary for guests to arrive 15-30 minutes late to a dinner party. ­• Fancy bars, clubs and bouzoukia require formal dress code, so keep your flip-flops for the beach. Cheap eateries like tavernas and smaller bars allow for casual wear. ­• It is customary when eating in tavernas, mezedopolia or inomaghiria to order snack plates (mezedes) for everyone to share, rather than ordering separate courses for each person. ­• A 16% gratuity is included in some bills, but usually you’re expected to leave something extra to round off the amount of the bill. ­• Some Greek people may not always respect queue lines so stay alert for queue cutters.

Was this helpful? Feel free to send your feedback, comments, or complaints to the author: Daphne Papadopoulou: daphnepa@gmail.com