Lifo Greek Islands 2015 by Dyo Deka S.A.

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The greek islands for visitors

Contents THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

The Greek Islands

Getting There

Santorini

Mykonos

Paros

Antiparos

Naxos

Syros

Koufonissia

106

Amorgos

112

Serifos

124

Off The Beaten Track

160

Useful tips

Publisher Dyo Deka Ekdotiki

Editor in Chief Michalis Michael

Articles Editor Daphne Papadopoulou Creative Director Christos Tzovaras Designers Vanessa Ferle Kostas Stanellos Illustrations Dreyk The Pirate Photographers Spyros Staveris Shutterstock Coordination Markella Andrikaki Xenia Stasinopoulou Text Correction Olga Kariotis Sales Demetra Passomenou Ismini Vourdaha Kostas Mantas George Lykourgiotis Akis Michalopoulos Ioulia Valsami Spiros Apostolopoulos Nefeli Kitsiou Voula Karavaggeli Selja Ternova Produced by DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA 22 Voulis st. Syntagma Square Athens 105 61, Greece www.lifo.gr For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr

The Gree 2/GREEK ISLANDS

ek islands Travelling towards the Greek islands is an experience in itself. You arrive at Piraeus port by train, panting and sweating, with a large backpack pressing persistently against your spine. You walk to the nearby kiosk to buy

a bottle of water and some savoury bites for the trip. The sun is burning hot and you see that the only thing separating you from your dream holiday is a busy, noisy two- way street. On the opposite side of the street, is

the quay where all the ferry boats dock. Yours is right there, its name is written on the side. You cross the street in a rush and find yourself right outside your boat. The large metal hatchway is wide open, like

a gapping mouth, devouring the small, slow-moving figures of the tourists. A young port official is blowing a whistle and gesturing wildly to the car drivers to move faster. Cars roll up the hatch and disappear into the

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THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

belly of the beast. You check the time, take out your ticket and join the line of hopefuls wishing to escape the dreary city. You slowly make your way up the narrow stairways of the boat to reach the open deck, because that’s where the best views are – and where you avoid the TV screens blasting Greek TV dramas. This is the important part: Your eyes scan the deck like a laser beam to find an appropriate shelter from the relentless sun and a potential spot to lay down for a nap, if needed. You avoid any groups of more than four teenagers who feel the need to share their music and intimate conversations with others. You zero in on a spot and make a run for it. Once seated, you inspect your mobile phone, drink some water and

4/GREEK ISLANDS

try to cool down. The deck of the boat feels like a laid back United Nations conference room, with non-stop chatter echoing in half a dozen languages. At one corner, a couple of dogs are sniffing the small pools of water gathered from earlier maintenance work. There’s a lot of noise coming from below. Cars and trucks are honking their horns; port police are shouting unintelligible orders. Suddenly, it seems there’s a light wind blowing, cooling your forehead. The boat is moving. You’re off to the Greek islands. As you watch the city disappear in the horizon, seagulls start circling the boat, hoping to secure a morsel of bread thrown by a sympathizing traveller. The small café at the back of the deck sells bucket loads of the ubiquitous frappé coffee and cappuccino

freddo. A couple sitting next to the funnel are chewing oily pastry pies and two guys in front of them are taking selfies with their mobiles. Though popular islands like Mykonos, Paros, Naxos and Santorini are served with frequent flights and boat services, others require a good deal of patience and high spirits as you may find yourself cruising through the blue waters of the Aegean for eight or 14 hours. If you ever wanted to catch up on your reading, this is the time. The uniqueness of the Greek islands rests in their privileged location, their sheer variety, their trademark architecture with its blue-and-white paint and the unbeatable combination of dazzling sunlight, glinting blue sea and warm, golden sand. Inhabited since antiquity, they offer a variety of sights, ranging from ancient Greek and Ro-

man ruins to crumbling Venetian fortresses and darkened volcanoes. Some are designated for wild times; others are as quiet as an upscale city suburb; some have beaches that could feature in a sun block commercial and others take you back in time. This is not an exhaustive guide of the Greek islands. With around 1,400 islands, 160-227 of which are said to be inhabited, a complete guide would look more like Encyclopaedia Britannica than this cute, portable magazine. The guide focuses on the Cyclades; a wild mixture of light, stone and dryness which constitutes the country’s most visited region. There’s also an entry from the Saronic Gulf – Aegina - one from the islands of the northeastern Aegean – Ikaria - and one from the Sporades - Skiathos.

Getting to and from the islands 6/GREEK ISLANDS

photos by spiros staveris

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

There are three main ports which serve the islands. • Piraeus serves Aegina, Amorgos (both ports; Egiali and Katapola), Anafi, Donousa, Folegandros, Fourni, Ikaria (both ports; Agios Kirikos and Evdilos), Ios, Iraklia, Kimolos, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Shinousa. Piraeus is Greece’s biggest port and is separated in different gates marked with the letter E and numbered from 1-12, depending on your destination: Ε1 (Akti Vasssiliadi): departures to the Dodecanese islands of Rhodes, Patmos, Kalimnos, Kos, Leros, Karpathos, Tilos and Kassos, Ikaria, Samos. E2 (Akti Hetiona): departures to Crete, the Dodecanese Islands, Chios, Mytilini (Lesvos). Ε3 (Agios Dionysios and Akti Kondyli): departures to Crete, Kythira. E4: only for exit of vehicles. E5: entrance for pedestrians. Ε6 (Akti Kallimasiotti Argosaronikos): departures to the Western Cyclades- Sifnos, Kythnos, Milos, Kimolos, Sikinos. This gate is for pedestrians only, with direct access from the metro station via a bridge, Rethymno. Ε7 (Karaiskaki square, Akti Tzelepi): departures to Eastern CycladesSyros, Paros, Tinos, Mykonos, Naxos, Amorgos, Santorini and Ios, Rethymno.

E8: departures to the Saronic Islands: Aegina, Poros, Methana, Hydra and Spetses. Ε9 (Akti Miaouli): departures to Western Cyclades, Samos, Ikaria. E10: only for exit of vehicles. E11 & E12: Cruise terminal A & B. • Rafina serves Ios, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Andros, Tinos. • Lavrio serves Kea, Kithnos, Syros, Lemnos, Ai Stratis, Psara, Chios. Companies for ferry boat, fast boat and catamaran tickets: Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com, Τel: +30 210 8919 800), Hellenic Seaways (www.hellenicseaways.gr, Τel: +30 210 4199 000, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4199100), Aegean Speed Lines (www. aegeanspeedlines. gr, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4125200), Sea Jets (www.seajets. gr, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4190233), Nova Ferries (www. novaferries.gr, Tel: +30 210 4126181, agency in Piraeus Tel: +30 210 4126528). A very useful website is Book ferries (www. bookferries.gr), where you can book your tickets for all the Greek islands, as well as Italy and Albania, which also offers the latest news in services (possible strikes, changes in routes), weather conditions and even has a Google map showing live marine traffic in the Aegean.

• For live information on arrivals and departures from all three ports, call Piraeus’s information line at 14541 and wait for the prompt to switch to English. After that, you will be put through to a telephone operator (service is charged). • For air tickets: There are three daily flights to/from Athens with Aegean Airlines (www. aegeanair.com) and three to/from Athens with Olympic Air (www. olympicair.com). Check the airline’s websites as more return flights are added on Sundays. For live information on arrivals and departures, check Athens International Airport’s website (www.aia.gr) • Weather forecasts: Check the National Meteorological Service (www.hnms.gr) and click on the English button at the top right.

Cruising in style

Island hopping is the standard way of visiting the islands and most people opt for the ferry option, but there’s a more stylish, convenient and easy way to travel around the Aegean and explore secluded caves and beaches. Aegeotissa Yachts is a family run company specialising in cruises around the Aegean with traditional wooden yachts. The company owns three boats; Aegeotissa I, Aegeotissa II and Corsaro Del Santa Maura. Aegeotissa I travels to all the islands

(Cyclades, Sporades, Dodecanese and Ionian) and can be hired for 7 or 14 days. Aegiotissa II covers all the Greek islands as well as the coast of Turkey and the Peloponnese. The Corsaro is the newest in the small fleet and was built as a replica of 17th century pirate ships, causing many heads to turn when it appears at a harbour. Its itinerary focuses on the Ionian Islands and specifically to places where pirates used to travel and hide. • The yachts (Aegiotissa I & II) cover one island per day. The day starts with breakfast on one of the decks and swimming at a secluded beach until the afternoon. This is followed by lunch on the boat and then passengers are shipped to the island on a dinghy boat to spend the rest of the day there. The atmosphere on the boat is relaxed and friendly, guests have the opportunity to lie on a sun lounger on one of the decks, eat at the dining room or have a drink at the bar. For more information on specific departure dates, cruises, cabin charters and prices you can email Stephanie Areli at aegeotissa@gmail. com, or call at +30 26450 23983. They also have a website (www.aegeotissa. gr). Their Facebook page is www.facebook.com/pages/ aegeotissa-yachts/ 123861574303407.

Santorini THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

For most people holidays in Santorini are equivalent to heaven. Who can blame them?

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Santorini

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

In 1956, when Greece was still struggling to recover from the devastation of the Second World War, a big earthquake hit the island. Fifty six people were killed and hundreds were injured in what was the largest earthquake to hit Europe in the 20th century. With their houses and livelihoods reduced to rubble, locals started abandoning the island in waves and travelling to Athens or abroad to start anew. At that time, anyone with moderate savings could have bought half the island as people were eager to be rid of any property, viewed then as worthless. A lot has changed since then. Santorini emerged from oblivion in the 1970s with the 10/santorini

advent of tourism and the development of modern transportation, to become one of the hottest travel destinations in the world. Athinios, the busy port of Santorini, is not much to look at, but as soon as you start ascending the narrow winding road that leads to Fira, you are made aware of the raw beauty of the island that has mesmerised visitors for decades. Santorini is an active volcano. It last erupted in 1950 on Nea Kameni, the small island formed from past eruptions. Don’t worry though; chances of it erupting while you’re spending the summer there are extremely thin. The name Santorini was given to the island by the Franks who run the

island in the 13th century in honour of Saint Irene and it has stuck until today, though the official name is Thira. Fira, the main town, is picturesque, but has not escaped the side effects of mass tourism. Throngs of tourists, right off the cruise ships, fill up the narrow paths, cars are parked everywhere, tacky souvenir shops interchange with dated jewellery stores, signs pop up arrogantly like mushrooms in every street corner and a couple of unsightly buildings mess up the picture-perfect town. There are some bright spots though. Take a seat at one of the cliff-hanging cafés where you have your first panoramic view of the 18 km long caldera,

stretching like a crescent moon from Akrotiri to Cape Agios Nikolaos, at the north. Right and left Fira town is spread out with whitewashed houses and churches with brilliant blue cupolas. At the centre of the lagoon is Nea Kameni and further out the inhabited island of Thirasia. The caldera cafés are the perfect places to sip the first aperitif of the evening and contemplate on the age-old popular legend on whether Santorini is indeed the lost Atlantis. Sightseeing should begin at Akrotiri (+30 22860 81366, open Tue-Sun) where excavations in 1967 brought to

Santorini

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

light the best known Minoan site outside of Crete. The elaborate complexes of multilevel buildings, the streets, objects and walls have been well preserved as they were buried under the ashes of the huge eruption which destroyed the island in the 17th century BC. The impressive frescoes from Akrotiri can be found at the Museum of Prehistoric Thira at Fira (+30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun). The Archaeological Museum (Fira, Tel:+30 22860 22217, open Tue-Sun) exhibits sculptures and inscriptions from the 12/santorini

Roman times, as well as some objects from Akrotiri. Naos Episkopis Thiras (south of village Mesa Gonia) is an important Byzantine church built in the 11th century by emperor Alexios Komninos. The small Folklore Museum of Manolis Lignos (Kontohori, Fira, +30 22860 22792) houses an old canava (wine cellar) and tools of the wine business. Do not miss the chance to walk on dark solid lava and swimming in hot springs by joining one of the daily boat trips to Palia and Nea Kameni, the volcanic islands in the

middle of the caldera, and bigger Thirasia. Boats leave from Yalos – Santorini’s old port Athinios – the new port – and Ammoudi. Santorini also has a thriving art scene with Greek and foreign artists exhibiting their work in various venues around the island. Art Space in Exo Gonia (open daily from 11am to sunset, +30 6932 899 509, +30 22860 32774, www.artspacesantorini.com) exhibits in its carved chambers contemporary art from new and established artists. Mati art gallery (Fira, Orthodox Cathedral plateau, +30

22860 23814) matiartgallery.com showcases the work of visual artist Yorgos Kypris. Many people argue Santorini doesn’t have any decent beaches. That’s not true. Because of its unique geology, Santorini has unusual beaches which are completely different from each other. Most of them are quite busy and the best time to enjoy them is to get there before noon. Perissa is a popular long beach with fine, black, volcanic sand and lounge chairs for everyone. There are many water sports on offer and the village

Santorini

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

has plenty of tavernas for an afternoon snack. Perivolos is the natural continuation of Perissa and is similarly organised with umbrellas, beach bars and lots of celebrity viewings. The beautiful limestone formations found in Vlihada beach create a lunar landscape where you are able to escape the sun loungers by simply walking past them. Kamari beach is probably the most famous beach and is 14/santorini

similarly geared towards pleasing tourists with beach bars and water sports. Lying on your sun lounger, you will probably see many small airplanes flying really low over the water; that’s because the airport runway starts right after the village. Two more beaches on the southwestern coast are really worth a mention: Kokkini paralia (red beach), right next to the archaeological site of Akrotiri, is a

narrow beach spread at the base of steep brick red rocks. It is reachable by boat from Akrotiri. Aspri paralia (white beach) has, as you may guess, white sand made of pulverized limestone and to get there you must hop on a boat. At the north, Katharos beach is blissfully quiet, though this is slowly changing. To get there, drive towards Ammoudi port and follow the signs. There’s an amazing

bar squeezed in the rocks overlooking the beach which is an ideal location to enjoy that famous sunset without the crowds of Oia and Fira. Baxedes beach at the northeast is recommended for families as the waters are shallow – an exception in Santorini. Driving towards the east you will find Monolithos and Karterados, both with black pebbles and sand, with Monolithos being more popular. If you like gourmet food, Santorini will not disappoint you. The island has a long tradition of cultivating and consuming high quality local produce. The volcanic earth has helped Santorini develop unique agricultural products which have dominated the eclectic culinary scene for many years. The local waterless small tomatoes (like cherry tomatoes) have an amazing full flavour and colour and the same goes for the local white aubergine. Fava beans from Santorini are so good they were assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin). The island also has a sophisticated wine industry which produces local varieties like Asyrtiko and the sweet Vinsanto. The strong winds have forced producers to cultivate vines by coiling them up, while

Santorini

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

the volcanic soil gives the grapes a unique flavour. Wine tasting tours are organised by local wineries. Some of them are Sigalas (between Oia and Vourvoulos, +30 2286071644), Santo Wines (Pyrgos, +30 22860 28058), a cooperative of wine producers, Antoniou Winery (Megalohori, +30 22860 23557) and Canava Roussos (Mesa Gonia, Episkopi, +30 22860 31349, canavaroussos.gr). Eating in Santorini can really be hit or miss. Many tavernas on the caldera have very poor quality of food because 16/santorini

they rely on their location to attract visitors instead of working on a decent menu. Beware of venues with too many signs and waiters prodding you to go in. Good restaurants do not need that kind of advertising. Life on the volcano passes in style and expectation. After spending a day at the beach, the same question is raised in people’s minds: where will they watch the sunset from? On this contest, Fira, Oia, Imerovigli and Firostefani win over the other villages hands down. If you want to find a seat in one of

the restaurants or bars lining the cliff, you have to be there at least two hours before the sun sets, as privileged seats - inside and outside the bars - fill up early. Otherwise, you can join the dozens of people who crouch on white roofs, empty yards and other available surfaces to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. When the sun goes down and the oppressive heat recedes, it is the perfect time to get a drink. Fira’s nightlife is livelier, while Oia is best for a quiet night out.

Getting there: All major

ferry companies offer several daily routes to Santorini. Santorini Airport is also served by two Greek carriers – Olympic Air and Aegean Air and many international airlines fly directly to the island. Having said this, we believe Santorini should be approached by boat. The experience of cruising between the volcanic islets as you approach Santorini and the impact of that first view of the caldera from below is a must.

▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Tango Bar

Tango Bar

Marinatou str., Fira, email: info@tangosantorini.gr mobile: +30 697 449 8206 & 694 5417 875

Tango Bar is something more than a bar. It’s an idea. An ideal destination for all those who truly want to have a good time during their stay in Santorini island. Start early and enjoy the sunset from the beautiful balcony with the sounds of chillout and lounge music. As the night comes, a whole new world unfolds in front of your eyes as you walk through the door and down those steps towards Tango’s beauti18/santorini

Aegialos Beach Bar Restaurant

ful veranda. Great music and refreshing cocktails that taste like summer set the tune. This year’s cocktail list is better than ever: Rich, simple and fruity, classic but with a special twist or even your own idea one thing is certain. The talented bartenders of Tango’s bar will aim to please you. Extra tip: Don’t forget to try this year’s apple caramel martini (vodka, fresh green apple, caramel syrup) or honey mango margarita (tequila, mango juice, fresh lime juice, greek honey).

Aegialos Beach Bar Restaurant

Exo Gialos, Fira, +30 22860 25816

Aegialos restaurant is located on the nearest beach to Fira , Exo Gialos. In a calm and beautiful environment with a summer inspired decoration in the tones of blue and green and many marine details you can taste aunthentic dishes from the local cuisine, fresh fish and many appetizers in a traditional restaurant right next tto the beach. At the organized beach of Exo Gialos you will enjoy swimming, the delicious flavors of the restaurant, or you can

organize your wedding having the restaurant Aegialos exclusively at your disposal. Extra tip: Οn the beach of Exo Gialos beach parties with famous guest dj’s are organized throughout the summer. Stay tuned on their facebook page (AEGIALOS) to check out all the upcoming events and parties of Aegialos Beach- Restaurant.

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▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Galini Hotel – Villas – Café

Marmita

Marmita

Μegalohoriou square, Santorini, +30 22860 81603, +30 6933146501

Located in a traditional village that offers a different perspective on the island, warmer and less cosmopolitan. Sitting at the top of a hill, the restaurant enjoys a view to the east and is surrounded by vineyards. The cuisine is inspired by Greek and Mediterranean specialties, uniting local products of Santorini with gourmet flavours and a menu based both 20/santorini

sabbia nera

on meat and fresh fish. Dishes like octopus and fava beans, Marmita salad, veal with prunes and pasta and shrimps in melted cheese prove how well the flavours combine.

Sabbia Nera

Kamari beach, Santorini, +30 22860 33007

The name means Black Sand and is one of the best trattorias on the island, located in Kamari, near the beach. Lying at the specially made lounge chairs, you will enjoy your swim drink-

ing coffee, juices and fresh cocktails and after you finish, you will dine in an ideal environment. You will try Italian flavours with a focus on pasta and seafood, made from experienced chefs and have a glass of wine.

Galini Hotel – Villas – Café

Firostefani, Santorini, +30 22860 22095

In Firostefani, next to the famous and inactive island volcano, hotel Galini offers fully equipped rooms and

villas. You can enjoy your coffee and snack in the hotel’s café. Room amenities include fridge, drier, safe, digital TV, Wi Fi and many more, while in the two villas there are panoramic verandas and Jacuzzi. At the café you will be served juices, coffee, tea, yogurt, toast, marmalades, omelettes, fruit, etc. The hotel also arranges your transportation at a small cost.

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▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Ferentini

Skala

Books & Style Fira, Santorini,

+30 22860 24510

This bookstore is unique on the island, possibly in the Cyclades too, because of its architecture and aesthetics, but mostly because of its con- tent. Those of you who love to read and enjoy sitting alone with a favourite book in your hands during the holidays, this is the place for you. There’s a variety of titles provided by Eleftheroudakis bookstore.

Sirocco

Perissa beach, +30 22860 83020

One of the oldest 22/santorini

Sirocco

restaurants in Santorini. It is famous for its fluffy pizza and the menu Greek and Italian menu. Sirocco also offers the choice of a set menu.

Skala Restaurant

Oia, Santorini, +30 22860 71362

Located in one of Santorini’s most picturesque villages, on the main cobblestone pedestrian walkway of Oia, the restaurant has a yard full of flowers and scents to welcome you. Enjoy Greek classics made with local produce like oven sfougato with zucchini and dill,

traditional aubergine salad, sardines in the oven with fresh tomato and oregano, fresh cod in the oven with olive oil, tomato and vegetables, spicy meatballs with sauce and a traditional baklava for dessert. Combine the food with wine from traditional local wine varieties, asyrtiko from the ancient grape variety found on the island and mavrotragano, the indigenous red variety with the rich aroma.

Ferentini Restaurant

it expands on two open-air levels and offers Mediterranean specials. The kitchen combines local recipes with creative additions like the famous Santorinian fava with capers, red wine and tomato marmalade, moussaka with asparagus and cured beef, shrimps with spicy feta and fresh tomatoes and more, with 12 wine labels of local and foreign wines to accompany your food and enjoy the Aegean view spread before your eyes.

Oia, +30 22860 71825

A sister restaurant to Skala, also in Oia,

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▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Tranquilo

Utopia

Passaggio Santorini Oia

Oia, +30 22860 71330, facebook.com/pages/ Passaggio-Santorini-Oia

Passagio in Oia, Santorini is an all day bar where you can escape, relax and enjoy the best sunset in the world.You can also try delicious beverages like coffee, tea, chocolate, juices and snacks like brioches, sandwiches, pastries etc. Passagio is the best choice if you want to have a drink, listening music from the best djs. 24/santorini

SKIZA

Utopia Guesthouse Santorini

Perissa Beach, Thira, +30 22860 81065, www.utopiasantorini.gr

Utopia is a complex of private studio apartments 20 meters away from the famous Santorinian black beach, Perissa. It is ideal for free style travelers who seek a youthful environment, a laid back atmosphere and enjoy the sea,the sun and the beach!

Tranquilo bar - restaurant

Perissa Beach, +30 22860 85230

Α beautiful beach bar restaurant which sets a chilled out atmosphere thanks to hammocks, sun beds and umbrellas. On the menu you will find a variety of dishes such as meat and fresh salads of generous portions but also many vegan options. During the summer holds yoga classes, live music sessions, art exhibitions etc. Open: 09.30 am – late hours.

Skiza Pizzeria -Café

Homemade Food & Patisserie Nikolaou Nomikou, Oia, Santorini, +30 22860 71569

Skiza awaits you all hours of the day, at its small balcony or the terrace, with delicious snacks and drinks to fuel your body. Pizzas, pasta and homemade ice cream are the specialties.

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To Cafenedaki tou Emporiou

To Cafenedaki tou Emporiou

Emporio, Santorini, +30 6977863307, +30 6947453999

Walking up to the graphic narrow pavements of the traditional village called Emporio where the time seems to have remained in the past and old times, on the way to the middle aged castle which is built on about 14th century, you will meet a monument of exceptional beauty, the church of Jesus. Just there, in a place

which looks like a real oasis you will find the beautiful traditional spot CAFENEDAKI. There you can enjoy greek coffee made with a traditional way, fresh homemade greek sweets and ice creams, also refreshing greek fruit salads and juices, greek beers and a great variety of local wines, cocktails based on wine and greek traditional spirits.

▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Seaside

Mezzo

Seaside restaurant

Agios Georgios, Perivolos Beach, +30 22860 82801, www.seaside-restaurant. gr, info@seaside-restaurant.gr

In the cosmopolitan beach of Perivolos, Seaside by Notos creates the perfect summer backdrop. It’s just fascinating how Seaside by Notos manages to finely balance its modern, cosmopolitan nature with an unpretentious gourmet atmosphere, being relaxed yet boasting excellent, informal 28/santorini

Mezzo

service. You ‘ll definitely fall in love with it at first sight thanks to it’s location, decoration and aura render the space. All the above are on offer plus an inventive and tempting menu. The chef’s creative cuisine will take you on a journey to the four corners of the earth, by adding a twist to Mediterranean flavours. For a truly unique experience, have a meal at the table-boat on the beach, listening to ethnic and lounge music, which changes

pace depending on the time and the crowd.

Mezzo Hotel & Restaurant

Imerovigli, +30 22860 21874

Mezzo Hotel is situated in a beautifully restored Cycladic home in the Imerovigli – Skaros are of Santorini, that was originally built in 1891 and restored to its present condition in 1979. It was only quite recently that a restaurant was added to the already excellent services of the Mezzo group. The

restaurant offers a superb gastronomic experience with high quality cooking inspired by the gastronomic tradition of Santorini and always prepared with local ingredients. In a magically decorated space offering breathtaking views of the volcano, the famous sunset of the island and Oia, Mezzo Restaurant is certainly one of the best choices in the area.

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▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

Yazz

Yazz

Perissa beach, +30 6940570457

Α beach bar restaurant you can choose for breakfast; you may try the fresh fruit juices and smoothies made of tropical fruits or 30/santorini

some traditional. Greek recipes. In the evening, it becomes the absolute beach bar. Sun loungers on the beach, tropical cocktails and music nights with live bands or DJs complete the ideal scenery.

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ď °Rastoni - Cafe Bar Restaurant

Fira , + 30 22860 25117

Located right above one of the most famous and photographed spots in the island, the Caldera in Fira. The three level space is specifically designed to offer majestic views of the volcano and of course the breathtaking sunset. The minimal yet luxurious Cycladic surrounding with the iconic arches on the first level is imposing. Start your day with our tasty breakfast, freshly squeezed juices and quality coffe while you are enjoying the views of the Aegean sea and

work your way through the day to a glorious lunch or a very romantic dinner. Extra tip: Watching the sunset is the perfect excuse to to try our amazing cocktails all prepared by the experienced bartenders of Rastoni

Rastoni

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▼ LiFOchoice Santorini

La Opera di Costa

Gecko

La Opera di Costa

Agios Georgios beach, Perivolos, +30 22860 83439, laoperadicosta.com/el/, facebook.com/pages/LaOpera-di-Costa

A highly refined restaurant offering exquisite greek and Mediterranean cuisine. The place looks loke a traditional itallian trattoria, nicely decorated with Mediterranean details. The highlight of the place is of course the big olive tree in the restaurant, a symbol of the mediteranean 34/santorini

Gecko

diet. Excellent choice for a meal all day long. Chose La Opera di Costa for lunch, a romantic dinner or a meal with your friends, right after the beach!

Gecko

Perissa, Santorini, +30 6944037523, +30 22860 83039

A beautiful restaurant serving fresh, home made burgers. All the ingredients are sourced locally from Greece. On the menu you can find the classic burger, cheese

burger, bacon burger along with greek style, BBQ, mushroom and vegetarian, 13 in all - or you can customise your own from a selection of 15 different ingredients. For that “Healthy Option” you can order salads, greek, tuna, caesar and chef’s. You can finish your meal with a nice selection of ice creams and desserts. Gecko’s house speciality is Tornado – Potato on a stick.

Mykonos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Everybody knows that Mykonos is the place to be! Fun, classy, cosmopolitan, exclusive and very chic.

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Mykonos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Welcome to Mykonos! The most popular of Greece’s islands, Mykonos, needs no introductions unless you’ve been living in a cave. Its reputation as a cosmopolitan destination began in the 1960s when international celebrities started spending their days and nights at the islands’ restaurants and bars. Locals have endless stories to share about this or that jet setter or movie star who was seen shopping and partying around Mykonos town. The island is a destination for party lovers, with top international DJs scheduling stints at the mega clubs of Paradise beach. The clichés you’ve heard about Mykonos are true. It’s cosmopolitan, 42/mykonos

picturesque and pricey, its nightlife is second to none and every other dirt road leads to a sandy beach with sparkly blue waters. It is also – together with Ibiza - one of the main gay friendly destinations in the Mediterranean. This open mentality means that people who come here feel free to express their sexuality and enjoy what the island has to offer. Having said this, travelling to Mykonos does not necessarily mean you have to forego peace and quiet. In fact, if you choose June or September for your holiday, or stick to the quieter parts of the island, you could be excused for thinking you’re in Amorgos or

any other low profile destination. As a regular visitor commented, Mykonos combines different lifestyles. Depending where you stay, swim, shop, eat and drink, you may collect experiences worthy of a Hangover movie sequel, or a National Geographic nature documentary. It’s really up to you. The boat will bring you at the new port, Troulos, and from there you can begin your exploration. The island has just two towns (the others are just seaside resorts); its namesake and Ano Mera with the main sights scattered around Mykonos town. The labyrinth of alleys and back streets are confusing at first, but once you get the hang

of it, you will be able to stroll down the street with the confidence of a local. Back-to-back boutiques line the main thoroughfares and are open all day for business. Four small museums are worth your visit: The Archaeological Museum (near the northern bus station, +30 22890 22325, open daily 08:30-15:00 except Mondays) houses items from the prehistoric to the late Hellenistic period, like pottery, vases and stelae dug out in uninhabited Rinia island. The Folklore Museum (close to Church of Paraportiani, +30 22890 22591, open daily from 16:30-20:30 except Sundays) has a beautiful collection of embroidery,

Mykonos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

old wooden furniture, maps, pictures and more. Lena s House (Tria Pigadia, Mykonos town, +30 22890 22591, 22748, Mon - Sat 18.00 - 21.00. Sun 19.00 - 21.00) an annexe of the Folklrore Museum, presents the interior decoration of a typical 19th century middle class house. Next to Lena’s House is the Maritime Museum (+30 22890 22700, open daily 10:30-13:00 and 18:30-21:00) which houses nautical instruments, vessels, maps and coins from antiquity until recent times. At the western edge of the town stands Panagia Paraportiani (Kastro district, Mykonos town), an awkwardly shaped Byzantine church and the most photographed site on the island. It is made up of five smaller churches - four on the ground floor and one on top. The construc44/mykonos

tion of the first church started in 1425 and the whole building was completed in the 17th century. When it comes to beaches, you will be spoilt for choice. If you crave attention and want to flirt, head to beaches like Paradise (real name Kalamopodi), Super Paradise (real name Blidri) and Paraga, all of which are packed with half naked people, sun loungers and umbrellas. Parties here start as early as 4pm and alcohol runs plentiful at the numerous beach bars. The idea is to swim, eat and drink your cocktail without moving more than 100 metres from your lounger. Super Paradise has its own website for info on upcoming events and tell-tale pictures (www. superparadise.com.gr). If dance music is your thing, don’t leave Paradise beach without

joining revellers at Cavo Pradiso (300 metres up the hill, +30 22890 25349, +30 22890 27205) and Paradise Club Mykonos (also on the hill), two open-air mega clubs where you can party until the sun comes up. Super star DJs like Tiesto, David Morales, Paul Oakenfold, David Guetta, Armin Van Buuren and Bob Sinclar often appear on the decks. At the south, Psarou beach is a meeting point for Greek celebrities and people who are there mainly to show off their tan rather than swim. Women parade up and down the beach wearing little more than lip gloss and colourful Ray-Bans. The beach’s popularity is such that, at high season, people call from Athens to book sun loungers and umbrellas. If the possibility of arguing with an over tanned, half-

drunk, muscular man over a sun lounger is not your idea of fun, head towards the quieter beaches at the north which have been spared the onslaught of lined umbrellas and blasting electronica music. Unspoiled Ftelia beach is popular with windsurfers as its northern exposure ensures strong winds almost all year round. Every year, the island hosts the Wave Tour, the international windsurfing games which attract all the big names in the sport. The seclusion you will enjoy here means it’s a good spot to go skinny dipping and bring your dog (Greeks are not too keen on seeing dogs swim next to their kids). Agios Sostis is also popular with nudists but cannot be reached by bus, so it’s best to rent a car or motorcycle. For even more privacy, head to Fokos

Mykonos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

or Kapari (right next to Fokos), two beaches with no facilities, which can be reached using your own transport. Kalo Livadi is an organised beach but it’s quieter than the others and is thus preferred by families. Agios Ioannis, more famous as the backdrop for the 1980s movie “Shirley Valentine”, is a relatively quiet beach with facilities for snorkelling and a great tavern on site. Of course, no beach is complete without some sporting facilities and in Mykonos you will find plenty on most organised beaches (Kalafatis, Elia, Platis Yialos). There’s skiing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, jet-skiing, parasailing, scuba diving and any other water sport you can imagine. For dry sports - until you start sweating – there are 46/mykonos

several tennis courts in Mykonos town which can be rented for a game, unless your hotel has a court. Mykonos is a sartorialist heaven. This is the only island for which women pack high heels. Any new trend set abroad is bound to be tried out here, so all the crazy shopping you did back home will pay off. Hipsters and fashionistas compete for attention at Matoyannia in the afternoon, the town’s main thoroughfare, while middle-aged, wellheeled couples stroll around town in search of the best upscale restaurant. If you’re itching to use your credit card, you will have no trouble doing so in one of the big-name luxury brands who have set up shop in town. There are also shops selling local delicacies, Greek herbs, natural cosmetics, leather sandals and of

course beachwear. You will be spoilt for choice when it comes to food as this is one of the few islands which can boast a variety of restaurants with international cuisine. Apart from the usual tavernas serving traditional fare, you may also try Italian, Chinese, Japanese and even Argentinian food while in town. Many restaurants offer a fusion of Greek cuisine with international favourites. Most restaurants are located in Mykonos town and the following list is only indicative of the type of food you may find. When the sun goes down, there’s no better place to watch the sunset than Little Venice, whose scenic houses and windmills featured in the movie “Bourne Identity”. All the bars there are very touristy and the quality of service and drinks

will vary, so look at what is being served before you sit. Later on, the fun moves back to Hora, where throngs of tanned revellers show off their dance skills in stylish bars and around the alleys.

Getting there: There are

many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Mykonos. Mykonos Airport is also served by two Greek carriers – Olympic Air and Aegean Air and many international airlines fly directly to the island. The airport is situated 4 km from Mykonos Town and you can reach it by taxi. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

Delos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Your sightseeing wouldn’t be complete without a day trip to Delos, where excavations have uncovered the second most important ancient sanctuary in Greece after Delphi, dedicated mainly to God Apollo. The uninhabited island is

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3.5 km off the coast of Mykonos and is included in UNESCO’s World Heritage list. According to the myth, the island is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, two of God Zeus’s many illegitimate - children. The site has five focal points: the maritime

quarter, the theatre, the temples of Apollo, the lion terrace and the house of Dionysos. Boats leave daily at 9, 10 and 11am from the pier at the west side of the harbour, right behind the little church of Agios Nikolaos. The boat trip takes about

30 minutes. Boats return at 12:15, 13:30 and 3pm. Boat trips to Delos are also organized from Platys Yalos and Paranga beach and you can book a tour guide on the spot. The site is closed on Mondays.

▼ LiFOchoice Mykonos

RIEN by Penny Vomva

Mykonos Hotel Andronikos

RIEN by Penny Vomva

Αtelier&boutique : Triptolemou 2-4 , Athens, Greece +30 210 3420622 Mykonos boutique: florou zouganeli 14, Mykonos, Greece, +30 22890 77230

This atelier was founded five years ago while Mykonos boutique opened in 2012 by Penny, who’s passionate about the art of sewing and creating clothes, swimwear, jewellery, leather bags, all of which aim at making women feel comfortable with those items. The name means “Nothing” but 52/mykonos

signifies a lot. It signifies that fashion is not posing, is not trends, is what every person feels and each person has a different feeling to express. This is what the creator of this atelier Penny Vomva, tries to accomplish: to reflect each person’s feelings on the clothes, swimwear and accessories. Her reputation has exceeded the Greek borders and now RIEN it’s in a position to collaborate with various shops across Europe, United States and Middle East.

Mykonos Hotel Andronikos

Drafaki +30 22890 24231, email: info@andronikos. gr, www.andronikos.gr

Andronikos Hotel is an upscale, cosmopolitan resort situated at the edge of Mykonos town with splendid views of the Aegean Sea and the sunset. Andronikos is spread across a large area of 90000 sq. feet and is the ultimate choice when it comes to Mykonos’ lifestyle. It combines easy access to the beaches and the town, newly designed spaces that inspire the

senses, exquisite dining at the award winner Lady Finger Greek gourmet restaurant and a relaxed yet funky atmosphere at the popular Orange Blue Bar. Andronikos Hotel evolves into a new era of hospitality by introducing the “total hotel experience”concept.

☛

▼ LiFOchoice Mykonos

Zorbas

Zorbas

Alefkandra Sq., Little Venice, Mykonos, +30 22890 77357

Zorbas is a restaurant and bar, located in the heart of Mykonos Chora, in Little Venice, serving authentic Mykonos-inspired Mediterranean mezze and tapas. Well known on the island, Zorbas is the oldest live Greek music bar in Mykonos. Under the direction of the ‘nice n easy’ organic bistro team and its creators Dimitris Christoforidis and the celebrated chef Chris Athanasiadis, Zorbas offers a renewed and innovative Greek tapas menu. Believing in big flavor with a small footprint, the food in Zorbas is made from delicious, simple, authentic Greek and 54/mykonos

BIKINI

fresh local ingredients. Don’t miss the cocktail and drinks list, handselected to match the style and flavors of Zorbas’ Mykonian cuisine. You’ll love Zorbas’ unique menu and seafront setting, with a stunning view of the sun setting over the Aegean Sea. Extra tip: Don’t miss the numerous live Greek music events which are hosted in Zorbas every week!

Bikini Shop

Chora, +30 22890 78599

Mykonos is home to a huge number of beaches that are always packed with travellers during the hot summer months. Beachlife is part of the Mykonos lifestyle, so it’s important that you look your

best when you hit the beach. In Bikini store you will find a huge selection of top quality bikinis, swimwear and other accessories from brands such as Crool and Undercolors of Benetton, which come in a range of brilliant styles and colours, and also items to fit all sizes. Bikini’s friendly and helpful staff are always on hand to assist in any way they possibly can.

Nice n easy

Alefkandra Sq., Mykonos Chora, +30 22890 25421 info@niceneasy.gr, www.niceneasy.gr

At ‘nice n easy’ organic restaurant bistro, a contemporary Mediterranean cuisine is served using high quality Farm-To-Table

ingredients. In ‘nice n easy’, the cuisine is fresh, the drinks are diverse and appealing and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. The emphasis on eating organically grown food that is healthy for you and the environment is at the forefront of every recipe. On the menu, you will find nutritional values and calories measurement for each dish served as well as a fine selection of gluten free courses. The restaurant with its jazz feeling was conceived and developed by Dimitris Christoforidis and Chef Christos Athanasiadis with their first location in Kolonaki, followed by one more in Kifissia.

Nice n easy

ď °aDa Kamara

Clothes and accessories Riga Fereou 4, Hora, +30 22890 23047, www.adakamara.com

Ada Kamara is a greek fashion designer specializing in Summer Collections. Through her journeys, mainly in Asia, she found her source of inspiration and soon started making unique pieces in silk and later on she added cotton linen and modal. A few years ago she decide to open her first shop in Paros and now she opened a second shop in Mykonos (Hora). Among her collection you will find a variety of items from kaftans to silk dresses and from bags to cashmere chauls and beautiful cotton quilts for those breezy nights. ADa Kamara

â&#x2DC;&#x203A;

▼ LiFOchoice Mykonos

Koursaros

Meletopoulou sq., mykonos town, +30 22890 78140, www.koursarosmykonos.gr

This restaurant is situated in a beautiful garden and the setting has a distinct pirates theme! You will taste many original Greek and Mediterranean flavours mainly fish and seafood all carefully selected by their experienced chefs. With 20 years of experience in the northern suburbs of Athens Koursaros guarantees excellent Greek hospitality and gastronomic simplicity.

Ekaterini Jewellery

Matoyianni, Mykonos town, +30 22890 78876, facebook: ekaterini jewellery design

The shop sells clothes from designer Ekaterini which are produced in Greece, as well as a wide range of foreign brands. The youthful design and great value for money are present in the hottest trends in accessories like earrings, necklaces, colourful watches etc.

Oneiro bar – restaurant (in MykonosView hotel)

+30 22890 24045 / 22890 26626 Fax. +30-22890 26445 E-mail. onirobar@semelihotels-mykonos.gr WebsiteGroup website: www.semeli-hotelsmykonos.gr, Facebook: Mykonos View Hotel

The bar-restaurant Oneiro of Mykonos View hotel is one of the most popular spots in the island to enjoy the sunset. The renovation was completed in 2012, giving new life to the interior and exterior. This chic place is in harmony with the sensational panoramic views of the cosmopolitan town of Mykonos, Syros and Tinos. In this atmospheric bar - restaurant you will have the opportunity to enjoy dishes from the Mediterranean cuisine accompanied by inspired cocktails in a fantastic setting that promises magical nights. Extra tip: Every morning, a rich buffet is available. Kick start your day on the island with American breakfast, jams, fruit salads and desserts and enjoy your tour in Mykonos!

Ftelia beach

Mykonos 84600, +30 22890 72466, www.ftelia–mykonos.gr

Hippie Chic philosophy and cool mood is what distinguishes this restaurant for the past seven years. Built amphitheatrically on the left side of the beach, extending on several levels, with beautiful decors, stools, comfortable sofas, rugs, cushions, up to the main restaurant area, with breathtaking views of the entire Gulf of Ftelia! The menu follows an Italian mentality. Try the all time classic steamed mussels with white wine, tuna tartare, sea bream en papillote, and handmade pizzas! For dessert, the calzone with mascarpone and nutella is a must! Do not miss the full moon parties on the beach! Don’t forget to pay a visit at the Saulty White boutique for beachwear and artworks made by Stavros.

Koursaros

Oneiro 56/mykonos

Ekaterini Jewellery

Ftelia

Paros THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

58/paros

Buzzing with energy and beautiful people, this is the place to be if you want to experience the real Cyclades!

Paros

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Right at the heart of the Cyclades, Paros beautifully combines aspects of all the other Cycladic islands; the striking white houses of Folegandros, the cosmopolitanism of Mykonos, the spirituality of Tinos, the variety of Naxos and the beaches of Ios. Since antiquity, Paros has been was known for its white marble, mined at the area of Marathi, five kilometres away from Parikia. The high quality marble proved very profitable through the centuries and was used to make three of

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the most celebrated sculptures in the world; the Venus de Milo (also known as Aphrodite of Milos, displayed at the Louvre), Hermes and the Infant Dionysus (also known as Hermes of Praxiteles, displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Olympia) and Nike of Samothrace (also at the Louvre). Mining stopped during the Byzantine era but restarted when the island was conquered by the Venetians. It continued uninterrupted until the late 19th century when the mine

was closed down. The marble quarries have for the most part survived intact. As the boat approaches to the main port and town, Parikia, you are greeted by the old white windmill, a favourite meeting point for tourists before they embark on their nightly escapades. It is the liveliest part of the island, with hotels, cafĂŠs, shops and bars lining the seafront and many more scattered around the back streets. The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long history is exhibited in the small

Paros

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Archaeological Museum in Parikia (+30 22840 21231, open Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00). The most important find is a fragment of the Parian Chronicle, a chronology of key events in Greece from 1,500 BC to 264 BC but you will also see the torso of Artemis in motion, from the 4th century BC. Just behind the museum are the remains of three Hellenistic houses, as well as beautiful mosaics from the 3rd century BC. At the heart of the old town lies the Venetian castle built by Marco Sanudo, Venetian Duke of Naxos, in 1260 AD using pieces of ancient temples and other buildings. Walking around Parikia will inevitably bring you outside Panagia 62/paros

Ekatontapiliani www. ekatontapyliani.org (+30 22840 21243, church open 07:3021:30, museum open 09:30-14:00 & 18:0021:00) the 4th century compound comprised of three churches – Agios Nikolaos, the Church of Our Lady and the Baptistry - and a Byzantine museum. Naoussa, on the north coast, stands out with its scenic harbour and the whitewashed houses and shops. What started as a small fishing village has transformed into a lively town with its own gastronomic world and nightlife which somehow seems to attract a more eclectic (and older) crowd. Close to Naoussa is Kolimbithres, one of the most impressive beaches with

light blue waters and smooth grey rocks. On the east coast are the tranquil villages of Piso Livadi and Logaras. Both villages have sandy beaches, tavernas and cafés and are popular with families and those who want to avoid the crowded beaches further south. Piso Livadi has plenty of small bars to enjoy a cold beer in the evening and watch the sunset. Taking the road back to Parikia from Piso Livadi, you arrive at the mountain village of Lefkes, right in the middle of Paros. Picturesque Lefkes, with its cubed whitewashed houses which resemble sugar lumps, have resisted the pressures of package tourism, maintaining its slow paced life

and unspoilt architecture. The Church of Agia Triada, made entirely of Parian white marble, is visible from every part of the village. If you’re in Paros at the end of August, do not miss the local panigiri on the 29th dedicated to Agios Yannis Kaparos. The celebrations spill out in the vineyards and orchards at the gardens of the local monastery. Paros is home to many sports, including water skiing, diving, horseback riding, mountainbiking, Go-Karting, bungee jumping, beach volleyball and hiking. However, the most popular sports on the island are windsurfing and kitesurfing. In fact, the kite surfing world cup is held here regularly and there are some top notch kitesurfing schools at Pounda beach for all aspiring athletes. Most sports facilities can be found at Santa Maria, Kolimbithres, Farangas and Monastiri. If you’re interested in discovering the underwater world of Paros look no further than the Aegean Diving College (ADC) (Hrisi Akti, +30 22840 43347, +30 6932 289649, +30 6932 757 122 www.aegeandiving.gr) which offers courses and organises diving trips. ADC is run by Peter Nicolaides, an experienced diver, oceanographer,

Paros

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

biologist and offshore engineer who has worked on expeditions with the National Geographic Foundation and Jacques Yves Cousteau. The coastal area is full of wrecks, interesting rock formations and caves and ADC organises trips to all of them, depending on your diving skills. A popular day trip is crossing to Antiparos Island (1km southwest of Paros and the next island in the guide), the somewhat quieter sibling of Paros. The boats leave daily from the ferry quay of Pounta beach. The hinterland has several wetlands like Santa Maria, Molos, Hrisi Akti, Aliki and Kambos which serve as havens for migrating birds like cormorants and 64/paros

eagles. Unfortunately, many birds and other types of wildlife fall prey to hunters or are otherwise injured. In 1995, the Aegean Wildlife Hospital Alkioni (area of Kamares, +30 22840 22931, +30 6944 741 616 email: alkioniparos@ yahoo.gr) opened its doors to treat wildlife from all over Greece. Since its opening it has expanded its facilities to deal with the increasing number of injured birds, while at the same time trying to educate the public on environmental issues. You can organise a visit to the hospital by calling ahead or email. The hospital is always in need of volunteers and donations, so feel free to help any way you can.

Just like Naxos, Paros has a significant agricultural production, starting from top quality olive oil, vegetables, fruits, gourmet cheeses like graviera, touloumisio and ladotiri and wine. Locals also think highly of the local caper added in Greek salads and the alcoholic drink souma, which resembles raki. The vineyards produce two local varieties of grapes, manthilaria (red) and monemvasia (white), which have been assigned the PDO tag (Protected Designation of Origin). Eating is a feast in Paros, which, like Mykonos and Naxos, offers a wide range of eateries and cuisines. The bar crawls in Paros start at the waterfront of Parikia and

continues where the music is louder. There are countless bars and clubs to choose from and sometimes the insane number of people gathering outside their doors means that the one you choose may just be the one which you can actually get in.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Paros and Olympic Air flies daily to the island. For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

▼ LiFOchoice Paros

Yemeni

Kakao

Yemeni

Naoussa, +30 22840 51445, www.yemeni.gr

The tavern Yemeni in Naoussa Paros remains faithful to the culinary tradition of Paros, since 2007. Nikos Evagelopoulos along with his mother the excellent cook Mario Zuma focused his cuisine onto traditional cooking with fresh local ingredients. Mario cooks with love and care everything she collects fresh from her orchard. When you visit Yemeni you will taste fresh home made bread kneaded and baked by the staff,

unforgettable stuffed gialantzi dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) as well as the traditional revithada, the chickpea casserole that is braised in the oven. Don’t leave Yemeni if you don’t try the Gemista: fragrant tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice and herbs. The traditional moussaka with eggplant, potatoes, ground beef and homemade bechamel is divine.

Kakao

Parikia, +30 22840 27580, facebook: κακαο

The terrace with the

â&#x2013;ź LiFOchoice Paros

Akrotiri Hotel

perfect view overlooking the Aegean sea is what makes this all day bar so special. Visit Kakao in the morning and taste the perfect breakfast oprions and stay around to watch the perfect sunset in the afternoon while sipping cocktails. Nights at Kakao are allways vibrant with live music and dj sets 66/paros

ď °Akrotiri Hotel

Parikia, +30 22840 22261, www.akrotirihotel.gr

The recently renovated Akrotiri Hotel with magnificent views overlooking Parikia bay is an ideal choice of lodging for visitors seeking peaceful stylish accommodation, friendly ambience and helpful service on the island

of Paros. Built in traditional Cycladic architectural style, Akrotiri Hotel is ideally placed 2km from the port and 350m from the sea offering a combination of countryside relaxation and easy access to local bars and restaurants and the famous Krios beach. The swimming pool and the lobbybalcony are surrounded

by colourful gardens and offer a panoramic view where guests can relax enjoying a drink or a snack from the hotel bar. All the rooms are equipped with a balcony with sea view. Each comes with an air condition, TV, fridge, hairdryer and a private bathroom.

▼ LiFOchoice Paros

Ada Kamara

Ragoussis

Cuore Rosso

Parikia, +30 22840 22920, +30 6983078276, facebook: cuorerossoparos

An authentic Italian pizzeria with a wood-burning oven that offers more than 40 handmade pizzas containing special flours that make a truly unique dough. Cuore Rosso offers a wide range of Salami and Cheeses which are part of the regional tradition of Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, accompanied by the classic fried Gnocco. The menu includes salads, Mozzarella from Campania, grilled cheese and homemade desserts, including the unforgettable Tiramisù.The cellar offers a wide selection of Italian and Greek wines as well as craft beers strictly unfiltered and 68/paros

Cuore Rosso

unpasteurized. Cuore Rosso is composed of two dining rooms in a traditional Greek style and a cosy garden

Ragoussis

Paros Naoussa, +30 22840 051508

Antonis Ragkousis is the fourth generation of cooks in his family that follows the footsteps of family tradition and built a new beautiful place in Naoussa with pastries, sandwiches with fresh local ingredients, handmade ice cream, coffee and breads. In the open kitchen of his place Antonis cooks with love. “Nothing is ready made. The ice cream is prepared with fresh local milk. The mizithropitakia with local cheese bought from local producers . The traditional

Zacharompaklavas featured on the shelves of the shop is recipe of my great grandmother with a touch of my own! This is a sweet made with honey and almonds. I use local honey enriched with dried fruit” Ragoussis operates 24 hours a day and in his menu there is something for everyone. If you are visiting Ragoussis after hours please try the “vromiko” sandwich with bacon and fried potatoes. Ragoussis.

Ada Kamara

Clothes and accessories Old Market, Parikia, +30 22840 28324, www.adakamara.com

Ada, the owner and also the designer, studied fashion in Paris. For many years to follow she traveled

in Asia gathering experiences through her journeys. She ended up in India which she now considers both her spiritual home and her source of inspiration as a fashion designer. She started by making unique pieces in silk and later on she added cotton linen and modal. Ada has always loved the summer season. She opened 2 shops in the beutiful Parikia, Paros, and later on she opened a second shop in Mykonos (Hora, located next to Kessaris Jewels). You can find a variety of items, from kaftans to silk dresses and from bags to cashmere shawls and cotton quilts for those breezy nights.

Antiparos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Antiparos is a small island off the southwestern coast of Paros. The island is one of the first – alongside Mykonos – which allowed nudism in the 1970s. What started as an off-the-beatentrack destination for rockers and camping lovers has in the last few years turned into a cosmopolitan, mainstream land of expensive property and loud nightlife. The whole island has two main streets, one leading to Agios Yorgis, the only other village on the 70/ANTIPAROS

island, and the other leading to Sifneiko, a beach to the north. Life on the island concentrates on the main village, also called Antiparos, which is basically an extension of the port. The village has many cafés, small grocery stores, bars and tavernas scattered around. During the day, you could be excused for thinking Antiparos village is deserted, as there’s hardly anyone walking around. The village comes to life in the evening, when sunburned tourists

amble along the cobbled streets, looking for a place to eat. Thankfully, cars are not allowed in the village. Walking past the Church of Agios Nikolaos at the central square, you will see the Kastro (castle), the old fortified settlement, built in the 13th century by the usual suspect, Marco Sanudo, the Venetian Duke of Naxos. The flat roofed houses inside the Kastro have been well preserved and they are typically built in a square. Watch

for the emblem of the “Venetian Democracy” which has survived on a wall over the balcony of a house right behind the Church of Christ. Atop the hill of Agios Yannis at the southeastern part of the island is the Cave of Antiparos, where the stalactite and stalagmite formations make for an extraordinary sight. The staircase will lead you down the well-lit cave where you will see a flat formation named “altar” after a Christmas mass that took place here in 1673

by French Ambassador Marquis de Nouantel. To get there, take the bus or a boat from Antiparos village. History buffs will love Despotiko Island, found off the southwestern tip of Antiparos, where an ancient sanctuary of Apollo was discovered unharmed in the 19th century. The sanctuary was used from the 7th century until Roman times and its most significant find is a large female figurine, probably a goddess, as well as a building complex of five

rooms. The island was inhabited until the 17th century, when French pirates killed all the inhabitants. There are daily boat trips from Antiparos village. Back to Antiparos town, visit the small Folklore Museum (inside Kastro, +30 22840 61005, open daily 08:00-14:00, except Sat, Sun) for a look at traditional everyday objects and costumes, as well as Cycladic figurines. The island may be small, but there is no shortage of beaches to swim. Agios Sostis and

Faneromeni are the prettiest, with turquoise waters. Faneromeni is divided in two very small bays; the one in the north is rocky and the other one is sandy. Close to the main village, Agios Spyridonas has shallow waters making it ideal for families with kids. The same applies for 1st Psaraliki, which has sun loungers and umbrellas. For those who like crowded beaches, head to 2nd Psaraliki, where you can play volleyball or do some peo-

ple - watching under the tamarisks. Livadi beach has sand but no shade, while Apantima is small with a rocky sea bottom, making it ideal for snorkelling. Surfers will love Sifneiko, but regular swimmers usually avoid it because of the layer of seaweeds washed out on the beach and the constant winds. For those who prefer nudism, head to the east of the island or the beach next to the camping site at Theologos (Camping Antiparos, +30

Antiparos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

22840 61221), where it is officially allowed. The calm waters of the camping are filled with nudists from all walks of life – from old tanned hippies to young couples and kids. The sea bottom around Antiparos’s coastline is rocky, making it ideal for scuba diving. Blue Island Divers (www. blueisland-divers.gr, +30 22840 61767) organise diving expeditions in several sites to observe schools of small colourful fish, reefs, tunas, canyons and shipwrecks. The diving site depends on the experience of the participants and is always headed by qualified instructors and dive masters. Antiparos village also 72/ANTIPAROS

has a beautiful open air cinema, Oliaros, showing a different movie almost every night, at 21:30. To complete the experience, buy something to munch from the bar at the back. The tavernas and bars are conveniently gathered at the main square of Antiparos village, so you will not need to do much walking. The island’s nightlife is more intense than you might expect. Bars stay open usually until 3am. The older bars in the village still play classic rock tunes (Bob Dylan, Doors etc.) to an ever-diminishing number of grey-haired customers. Interestingly, the other type of music that never went

out of fashion here is disco. To relieve your aching body from all the swimming and boozing, surrender yourself to the capable hands of Roula Papathanasiou, a therapist practising Reiki and Thai massage. Roula is in Antiparos in July and August and can be contacted at: newenergyrp@gmail.com and her mobile: +30 6945 104810. Before you leave, make sure you try the following delicious local foods: xinomizithra cheese (Sinioris restaurant at Antiparos village has the best), rabbit casserole and mizithra cheese.

Getting there: There are no direct ferry services from Athens to Antiparos. You take a ferry to Paros and from there it is a short boat ride to the island. Boats leave from the main port of Paros (Parikia) every half hour during high season and are timed to coincide with the arrival of the large ferries from Athens. Alternatively, you can take the bus from Parikia to Pounta and from there the open ferry to Antiparos which takes about five minutes. During high season, the open ferry runs every half hour until 15:00 and afterwards every one hour.

▼ LiFOchoice Antiparos

Lollo’s Pizzeria

Anargyros

Despotiko Café-Bar

Camping Antiparos

+30 22840 61221, www. camping-antiparos.gr

Comfortable, clean camping site located in an area of lush vegetation right next to one of the most beautiful beaches of Antiparos. During your stay in Camping Antiparos you will have the privilege of enjoying breathtaking views towards the Aegean sea and admire the famous sunset of Cyclades. The camping site includes a mini market and a self service restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine.

Despotiko Café-Bar

Agios Georgios, Antiparos, +30 6974148276

Located just beneath Despotiko’s cove 74/ANTIPAROS

Camping Antiparos

(which gave its name to the café), has a breathtaking view of the sea and the passing sailboats but also to one of the most wordeful sunsets of the Aegean sea. Start early in the morning and relax with a cup of coffee or some fresh juice, switch to fresh salads and beer in the afternoon and in the evening have a drink or cocktail along with some great lounge melodies. During the day everyone in Antiparos will pass by Despotiko’s cafe bar.

Lollo’s Pizzeria italiana

Port of Antiparos, +30 22840 61215, +30 6981968699

Lollo’s Pizzeria in

Antiparos brings the unique Italian flavors to your plate. Stefano & Sabrina, the owners, are from Rome and they ‘ve brought with them the authentic Italian cuisine. Here you can sit in the delightful seafront of Antiparos and enjoy their delicious “Pinsa” that has been inspired by the ancient traditions of Rome and is baked in a wood burning oven using an excellent blend of Italian organic bread wheat flour and without the addition of any animal fat. A selection of Italian Cured Pork Meat and Cheese, delicious salads, homemade fresh pasta dishes and homemade desserts both made with organic eggs. The

best Italian wines can be enjoyed too. Open for lunch till late in the evening and from June to September. Available take away pizzas.

Anargyros

Antiparos, +30 22840 61204

The oldest restaurant and hotel establishment in Antiparos (operating since 1925) continues to offer excellent hospitality to its customers. Your taste buds will be fully satisfied with the exquisite Mediterranean cuisine, cooked with ingredients mostly produced by its owners. Anargyros is situated close to the beach and other hot spots of the island.

Naxos THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

76/naxos

So many choices for everyone on this island. Not just swimming and night life, but also amazing places to see, super food and of course sighseeing.

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Welcome to Naxos! Naxos Island is the biggest in the Cyclades and you will definitely need a car to get around. The island thrived during the Byzantine era and the numerous pretty churches spread across the inland are a testament to this heritage. Myth has it that this is where Zeus, the king of ancient Greek gods, was raised and where he launched his efforts to take over the throne in Mt. Olympus. Locals have given his name to the island’s tallest mountain, Zeus (also known as Zas). Even from the boat, visitors to Naxos can see the 6-metre-high Portara (gate) sticking out from the dry land to the left of the port. It is part of the unfinished temple of Apollo, whose construction began in the middle of the 6th century BC but 78/naxos

was never completed. Just like in other islands, the capital and port is called Hora, whose historic centre reveals a beautiful, medieval town. The town, also known as Kastro (castle), was built by the Venetian Duke of Naxos, Marco Sanudo (who also built the kastro of Antiparos), in the 13th century. Wandering around the old town with its very well preserved Venetian buildings flanking the narrow alleys, you feel like you’ve stumbled upon a film set, halfexpecting a knight in shining armour to appear from a corner. Inside the Kastro, the Archaeological Museum (+30 22850 22725, open Tue-Sun 08:00-15:00) housed in a listed building that used to be Sanudo’s palace, has artefacts

dating from the Late Neolithic period to the Early Christian times. The highlights are the amazing mosaic representing the abduction of Europe from Zeus and the large collection of marble figurines (Cycladic among them), vessels and amphorae. The palace itself was built from 1600 to 1800 and is in itself a highlight. The island’s Historical Archives are now housed in what used to be a French school, where writer Nikos Kazantzakis, Greece’s greatest modern writer, attended briefly. Antico Veneziano (+30 22850 26206) is a stunning 800-year-old mansion which has been restored to its former glory by the Dellaroka family and operates as an antique store. The old ornately carved wooden furni-

ture and the porcelains and silverware found in the mansion are displayed beautifully for the visitors. Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum (+30 22850 22387, open daily 10:00-23:00) inside the castle showcases medieval everyday objects and, during the summer, hosts cultural activities, such as concerts of classical music and art exhibitions. Your medieval tour is completed with the Capuchins monastery and the 13th century Catholic Cathedral. There is plenty of walking and exploring to do inland, so open your map and take notes. Apiranthos is Naxo's most beautifully preserved village. This small village has set up three museums: the Archaeological Museum (open Tue-Sun, 08:3015:00) with interesting rock paintings and other artefacts, the Museum of Natural History (Tue-Sun, 08:3015:00) exhibiting rocks and dolphin skeletons and the Geology Museum (open Tue-Sun, 08:3015:00) housing lots of rock formations from the island and abroad. Your tour around the island will inevitably bring you to Tragaea, a large valley at the centre of Naxos, dotted with half a dozen sleepy villages. The

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

quaint village of Filoti, the largest of the group, is built amphitheatrically over the fertile valley cultivated with olive trees and orchards. Further down towards Hora, you encounter Halki village, which has more Venetian tower houses, the most famous of which is Gratsia Pyrgos. In the same village, the family Vallindras (+30 22850 31220) has been making Kitron, an alcoholic beverage made of citrus, in the same distillery since 1896. The visitor is invited to observe the process and try Kitron and other products. Koronos is a mountainous village whose inhabitants used to work in the nearby emery mines. Today locals are involved in farming and agriculture. Your next stop should be Melanes, built on the side of a gorge. The highlight is a tall Kouros statue (male statue) situated in the countryside close the village, dating to the 6th century BC. Close to the village, in the 80/naxos

area of Kalamitsa, is the old Jesuit Palace, built in the 17th century, which served as the residence of the Jesuit monks. Another giant Kouros lies in an ancient quarry close to Apollonas village, at the northern tip of the island. There are more antiquities to see towards Sangri, at the area Gyroulas, the Doric Temple of Demeter, built between 530-520 BC which is made entirely out of white marble. Another majestic tower is the Hellenistic Pirgos Himarrou (a tower) situated in an area beyond the mountain of Zeus (Zas). Apart from sightseeing, Naxos is all about swimming. The coast north of Hora is rocky and is usually avoided, but if you go south, you will have a lot of coves to choose from. Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna offer the usual triptych of sun loungers, umbrellas and water sports (diving included). At the area of Marangas, below Agia Anna, are a series of

small beaches which you can explore one by one. On the west coast, the sand dunes which form Plaka beach attract nudists. Agiasos is a quiet beach overrun by families, while Apollonas at the north is protected from the winds. Naxos, like Paros, attracts windsurfers thanks to the summer meltemia winds that sweep the island. Beaches like Mikri Vigla are dotted with colourful sails swooshing up and down the waves. Mikri Ammos to the west is a beautiful sandy beach but it’s a long way out. Unlike the rest of the Cyclades, Naxos has a fertile land and agriculture is widely developed. The Naxiot potatoes are considered the best and are shipped to the supermarkets of mainland Greece. As you travel inland, you will discover the orchards and vineyards which produce wine, figs, olive oil and citrus. Another source of income comes from farming and islanders

are proud to present their own cheese at the table. When eating out, ask for arseniko kefalotiri, graviera, glikia mizithra (all flavoursome cheeses) and order xinogalo to drink (a type of goats’ milk). Since Naxiots eat what they produce, most tavernas serve good quality specialties from ingredients growing in their back garden. When the sun has set, it is time for a movie and a drink. Naxos is more family oriented, but you will also come across groups of teenagers having their fun in the sun and in the bars. Most of the action is centred in Hora and the villages south of the main port. Cine Astra (+30 22850 25381) is close to Protodikiou Square and shows new releases at 21:00 and at 23:00.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Naxos and Olympic Air flies daily to the island. For ferry and airline websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

▼ LiFOchoice Naxos

Ippokampos

Porto Naxos

Il Girasole

Il Girasole Palia Chora, Naxos

of Chora, on the side of the harbor.

+30 22850 23326

Authentic Italian restaurant with more than 25 local pasta recipes and 40 kinds of pizza with a crispy thin dough. Healthy, tasty and cheap Il Girasole menu consists of a fascinating collection of original recipes from all the regions of Italy and cooked with the purest Italian and local, Naxian ingredients. Its location is ideal for your first meal on the island, after a tiring journey, and for a farewell dinner, waiting for the ship departure, since its located at the beginning of the beach 82/naxos

Ippokampos

St George beach, +30 22850 24648, +30 6977275832, info@ippokampos-naxos.com, www. ippokampos-naxos.com

Awarded with the Blue Flag once more and a stone’s throw from the town and the port, the beach of St. George, is the best choice for those who do not want to leave the city. Well organized with umbrellas, loungers and a lifeguard. On the beach you will find the Ippokampos restaurant where you can sample dishes from modern

Mediterranean cuisine made with the freshest Greek products. Ippokampos Hotel is located right on the sandy beach of Agios Georgios in Naxos Town. It consists of 9 furnished rooms with a private balcony. It features air conditioning, flat screen TV, DVD player, hairdryer and WiFI.

Porto Naxos St George beach,

+30 22850 23970-71-72

Hospitality, comfort and tranquillity. These three words summarise the philosophy of the people who created this hotel and its guests. Porto

Naxos has a traditional Cycladic architecture and decoration and an impressive garden which will satisfy your needs. The rooms include air condition, cable TV, mini bar, wireless internet, a safe and other common features. You may enjoy your meals at the hotel restaurant and later go to the bar or the pool bar for a drink. In the hotel spa you will achieve absolute relaxation. Ask the staff to transport you to and from the hotel, give you bikes to ride, inform you about sights around the island and sign you up for group tours or sports.

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

The Capital of Cyclades is a magical place with extraordinary history.

Syros 84/syros

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Elegant, busy and full of history, Syros is unlike any other Cycladic island. Inhabited since antiquity, it linked its fortune with the Venetians, who took control of the island in 1207 and stayed until their defeat from the Ottomans, leading it to a period of great economic development and the forming of the largest community of Catholics in Greece. Apart from tourism, the local economy is based on agriculture, ship-building and services, giving Syros a less touristy feel. The capital and main port, Ermoupoli, is the administrative centre of the South Aegean region and is spread out from the port to the nearby hills. The Catholic neighbourhood of 86/syros

Ano Syros is nestled to the left of the hill and the Orthodox neighbourhood of Vrontado to the right. The name means the city of Hermes, the ancient Greek god who protected commerce, travellers and thieves. Platia Miaouli, the central square of Ermoupoli, is surrounded by shops and cafés, restored neoclassical buildings, trees and flocks of pigeons flying overhead. At one side stands the majestic Town Hall, the work of German architect Ernst Ziller, who designed, among others, the Presidential Mansion in Athens. The same building also houses the small Archaeological Museum (separate entrance on the west side, +30 22810 88487, open Tue-Sun

08:30-15:00) which presents a collection of artefacts excavated in the area of Halandriani, as well as Roman and Hellenistic sculptures and vases. Walking around town you will see Apollon Theatre (Vardaki square), built in 1862-1864 on designs made by French architect Chabeau. At the edge of Ermoupolis stand the chimneys and cranes of the town’s old industrial centre which housed the old ship yards. Three of these buildings form the Industrial Museum (+30 22810 81243, 84762, www. ketepo.gr) housing a collection of 20 machines, components and other objects that testify to the city’s industrial heritage.

Further up the hill from Ermoupolis is Vaporia, an affluent part of the town where the old mansions of Greek ship magnates dominate with their huge doors and marble floors. The prettiest quarter is Ano Syros which has a completely different architecture from Ermoupoli. Built in the 13th century to protect the Venetian population, its houses form a residential fortress with the Catholic Cathedral of Agios Georgios dominating the village. The majestic view of the port from the Cathedral is worth the huffing and puffing you will endure from the countless stairs leading to it. The village is steeped in its medieval past, with

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

narrow alleys and archways leading you to small squares, pretty flowered yards and meandering alleys where kids play all day. The highlights of the village include the Monastery of the Capuchins built in 1653 and, further up the alley, the Monastery of the Jesuits. Ano Syros is also the home of the prominent Greek musician and rebetiko composer, Markos Vamvakaris, who wrote Frangosyriani. His museum (+30 22813 60914, open daily 10:30-13:10 and 19:00-22:00) showcases pictures and personal objects donated by his relatives, as well as original manuscripts of his songs. The beaches of Syros may not be as impressive as in other island, but they are 88/syros

also less noisy and are just as clean. The most popular are the long sandy Galissas, the fishing village of Kini, busy Agathopes filled with sun loungers and thatched umbrellas, the sheltered bay of Vari and Azolimnos. To enjoy more privacy and reach beaches, you have to take one of the boats that leave daily from Ermoupoli or rent a car. Armeos is a nudist beach found in just a few minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; walk from Galissas, while one kilometre from Agathopes is the quiet beach of Komito. On your way to Kini, you will see a sign leading you to Lotos beach, filled with tamarisks for ample shade. Other crowdless options include the mid-sized beaches of Grammata in the northwest, Varvarousa

and Aetos. Between Azolimnos and Vari are the hidden beaches of Santorini and Fabrica. At the southwestern part of the island, Finikas beach has a few umbrellas and trees to hide from the sun, as well as a cement platform on one end which serves as a playing ground for teenagers. From Finikas beach you can also reach the small, sandy Kokkini Paralia. The Italian influences are evident in the local gastronomy. There are plenty of Italian restaurants and gelaterias around the island and some Italian elements have been incorporated in local recipes. For a complete picture of Syrosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary world, try the local loukoumia (Turkish delights) and halvadopita (a flat type

of pie with nougat) found in every bakery in town and also the cheeses San Mihali and kopanisti. Nightlife in Syros is centred on Miaouli Square and the seafront of Ermoupoli, but if you want a quiet night out, the beautiful Pallas cinema (+30 22810 82313) plays mainstream films with Greek subtitles every night.

Getting there: There

are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus and Lavrio port with Syros. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

▼ LiFOchoice Syros

Melikraton patisserie

Anemologio

marathos

Anemologio

9 Emm.Roidi str. Hermoupolis, +30 22810 79696

In one of the most picturesque streets of Syros, housed in an 1850 building you will find Anemologio restaurant. With new Greek creative cuisine and dishes that marry tradition with modern gastronomy, the options are many and very delightfull. Anemologio stands out thanks to the quality of food, fresh ingredients that come from the Cyclades, 90/syros

good organic wine and natural oversized desserts that perfectly complement your meal.

Melikraton patisserie

Eleftheriou Venizelou 3, Hermoupolis, Syros Tel. No: +30 22810 80075, facebook.com/MELIKRATON

In Melikraton patisserie you can taste greek traditional desserts, as well as desserts with French influence! Furthermore a variety of stevia sweets, handmade ice cream, excel-

lent sandwiches with salmon, chicken and tuna can be delighted. We are waiting for you to come and taste them from the finest patisserie in town!

Marathos

Bio products – Healthy eating – Vegeterian meals D. Vikela & Gravias str, +30 22810 88866, facebook: marathos organics

In the center of Ermoupolis at Miaouli Square, in an elegant setting with jazz music, you can enjoy unique

handmade pies, falafel, Arab pies with vegetables, sandwiches with homemade bread, breakfast, salads and vegetarian meals. You will cool off with a selection of fresh juices, smoothies, coffee, iced tea, cold chocolate and citrus preserves. Try our excellent wine, raki and cold organic beer, accompanied with delicious tapas. In Marathos you will also find fresh fruits, vegetables and grocery products exclusively from organic farming.

▼ LiFOchoice Syros

pleasing. The location is ideal as it is situated close to the port in case you need to take a trip to nearby islands. It is also close to historical sites, the casino and nightclubs.

Filomila’s Greek Tavern

Αzolimnou beach, Syros, +30 22810 62088

Lila’s Guesthouse

Filomila’s Greek Tavern

Lila’s Guesthouse

ioannou Kosma & Filikis Eterias, Ermoupoli, Syros, +30 22810 82738

An old mansion made of stone, which was restored in 2003, oper92/syros

ates as a guest house with three rooms and three suites, which are equipped with everything you might need. The rooms also have an attic to fit a third person, while the suites

are 50 sq. meters big. With two bedrooms for 4-6 people, a coffee maker, a fridge, a safe, air con and hair drier. The colour, the decoration and the furniture are aesthetically

Two friends from Kephalonia set up a mezedopolio in Syros with a lot of flare. Every day they cook in the kitchen traditional Cycladic recipes with carefully chosen ingredients from the island as well as recipes from the East. Everything cooked with care. Apart from the regular dishes, thereare also specialties of the day which change depending on the produce they have picked up at the market and the same applies for desserts. With a glass or bottle of wine from their selection of brands, Greek or foreign music, Filomila is the summer favourite of tourists.

▼ LiFOchoice Syros

Greek Coffee Shop

Greek Coffee Shop

Miaouli square, Ermoupoli, +30 22810 89248

Semiramis Hotel

Semiramis Hotel

Galissas bay, +30 6951910904, 6937156609, www.semiramishotelsyros.com

This beautifull hotel is built and decorated according to Syros traditional architecture and design and is located on the west side 94/syros

of the island in the village of Galissas, only 7 km. from the port of Ermoupolis and 6 km. from the airport. The comfortable rooms of the complex together with the atrium and its surroundings create an atmosphere of elegance, while ensuring you a relaxing stay,

120 meters from the longest beach of Syros and the magical beach Armeou. The hotel features free for use: BBQ, parking, Wi-Fi, sun loungers, bikes, plastic boats, marine ompreles & mats, rackets, balls and toys for the beach.

In a restored neoclassical building at the center of Ermoupolis, the Greek Coffee Shop personifies Greek hospitality with an aura of ancient Athens, of Zeus and Hermes. Those who visit enjoy all the specialties of the coffee shop as well as savoury and sweet dishes made with local products which you can also buy and cook them yourself using your own recipes.

Koufonisia

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Koufonisia are part of the Small Cyclades, a cluster of five small islands southeast of Naxos: Iraklia, Schinousa, Donousa and Koufonisia. Back in the 1980s, the only people who chose to travel to this part of the Aegean known as agoni grammi (ferry routes with very low passenger and commercial traffic that no shipping company cared to service) were the odd bearded backpacker and loners. The trend started to change in the mid-1990s, when the appetite for popular islands was saturated and a new one emerged for off-the-beaten-track destinations. The biggest recipient of the newly found interest in remote islands was Koufonisi, whose tourist infrastructure went from having one camping site, two tavernas and 98/Koufonisia

two cafés to dozens of rooms, boutique hotels, apartments and bars spread all over the island. The inhabitants on all these islands are mainly fishermen who supply the local tavernas with their daily catch. The islands are ideal for those who are interested in resting and swimming and not so much in culture, as there is not much sightseeing to be done. Iraklia has remained largely unchanged and very quiet. The main village is not particularly scenic but has retained this old-times charm. Livadi beach is where most tourists stop for a swim but you can seek out more lovely beaches if you walk along the coastline. Shinousa is a prettier island and owes its beauty to the simplicity of the landscape and the tranquil lifestyle. If

you’re serious about escaping modernity, this is the island for you, as it has no nightlife, no banks and no fuel stations. It does have many beaches with emerald-green waters along its coastline. The biggest of the group is Donousa, an island chosen for its golden beaches, quiet lifestyle and ample free camping space at Kedros, Kalotaritisa and Livadi. Kedros beach – the only beach where nudism and free camping is officially allowed - attracts divers and snorkelers who want to explore what little is left of the wreckage of the Orion, a destroyer boat which sunk in WWII. Donousa has four small villages; the port - Stavros, the tiny, almost uninhabited Messaria, Mersini, with panoramic views of the island and Kalotaritisa at

the edge of the island. Koufonisia, consist of three islands; Pano (=Upper), Kato (=Lower) Koufonisi, and Keros. Of the three, only Pano Koufonisi is inhabited. Koufonisi was forgotten for years by Gods and men, until word-ofmouth made it as popular as Mykonos, but without the variety of its restaurants and nightlife. Koufonisi, along with Donousa, are often described as heaven on earth, because of the picture perfect turquoise waters and endless sandy beaches. Tanned Italians with tribal tattoos constitute the bulk of tourists but Greeks are a close second. Most distances on the island can be covered by foot or a bicycle, but you can also rent a motorcycle. A small piece of trivia: it seems every other person’s

Koufonisia

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

surname on the island is Prasinos (Green); therefore it is very likely that a Mr or Mrs Green will be your local host, boat captain, or taverna owner. The island is rather flat and only has one village, Hora, which is in essence an extension of the port. The first beach to be found on Koufonisi is the port itself, Megali Ammos, a favourite among families. If you start walking southwards (towards your left when facing the port) you will soon reach Harokopou, which is also popular with families. Continuing along the coastline, you enter the clothes-free zone on the beaches of Fanos and its camping site, busy Italida and further out 100/Koufonisia

the somewhat quieter Pori. Keep an eye for the small coves hidden behind rock formations. They are usually only big enough for you and your significant other or a party of six at the most and offer privacy and the amazing feeling of being the only human on the planet. The island is full of caves and interesting rock formations which is why it was named koufo, a variation of the word koufio - hollow. A famous formation on the way to Pori is the “eye of the devil” which is essentially a large, pool-like hole in the rocks with a beautiful view of the sea. To the northwest you will find Parianos, a cove with a wide sandy beach well protected from the wind.

There’s not much variety in the culinary world of Koufonisi, but you will find delicious fresh fish, lobsters and seafood delivered daily from fishermen in local tavernas, as well as goat and lamb meat from local herds. For a change in your swimming routine, take the boat to Kato Koufonisi and choose between Nero, which welcomes nudists, Mastroyiorgis, Pezoulia Fikio and Theti, four beaches and coves blessed with the same

crystal waters as the Upper island. There are a few fishing huts scattered around, the church of Panagia and a taverna. There are also daily services from Hora to remote beaches and uninhabited islets. Koufonisi is crowded during July and August so your best chance of making the most of it is to arrive either in June or September.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Upper Koufonisi and daily services from Piraeus to Naxos Island. From Naxos, there is a daily ferry service connecting all the islands of the Small Cyclades. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

▼ LiFOchoice Koufonisia

Sorocos

Gastronaftis

Sorocos

Cocktail bar Ano Koufonisi, +30 22850

El Greco

the art exhibition room with ceramics and other art forms.

71704

With the tables set right next to the sea, and a view of Keros Island this is the ideal place for a glass of beer or a refreshing cocktail after your swim, or in the evening when you return for dancing. This is the kind of summer experience you only find in Sorocos. Dont miss 102/Koufonisia

Gastronaftis Ano Koufonisi, +30

22850 71468

Its name signifies someone who knows about gastronomy and travels in the Greek seas to bring you fresh fish and seafood daily. The food is authentic Mediterranean using good quality ingredients to create

dishes that meet the expectations you have when you choose to visit the island and Gastronaftis. The food satisfies all your senses, with first and foremost your vision. The friendly service and cosy atmosphere are some of its advantages.

03 bar

El Greco All day cafe-snack-

A brand new cafe snack - bar that operates around the clock. El Greco serves excellent coffee and some great choices for breakfast. Try the excellent pastries as well as the waffles that are served with ice cream. By noon the place changes with good music, beers, drinks and impeccable cocktails.

Koufonisia Hotel

Atairiastoi

ď °Atairiastoi

Koufonisia, +30 22850 71834, +30 6944244158

The famous traditional kitchen of Mrs Anna prepares on a daily basis mezedes and local specialties full of fragrant herbs from the Cycladic country. Home-made filled pastry, stuffed wine leaves with lemon and egg sauce, lamb with potatoes in the oven, sea urchin spaghetti, 104/Koufonisia

mullets, moussakas, aubergine in pastry cooked in a ceramic pot by Melenia are some of the dishes you will find. And if you like these, you will definitely love the dusky grouper in red sauce and the rice with scampi. Here you will also taste their famous rakomelo or raki drink, along with other beverages. The music here is traditional folk songs as well as rebetika.

ď °Koufonisia Hotel

Ano Koufonisi Island, +30 22850 74067

Located in Ano (Upper) Koufonisi, Koufonisia Hotel welcomes you to a setting designed with love and passion. It is the only 4 star hotel in Koufonisia and of course within the wider region of Small Cyclades. Recently renovated and builf of stone it contains fifty beautiful, rooms built in amphi-

theater style, have a view of the garden, the pool and the marine blue ocean. Here you will enjoy the most relaxing and refreshing holidays, at Koufonisia Hotel. Just 50 meters from the nearest beach, dream-like Koufonisia Hotel offers vacationers a rewarding experience: all the modern amenities for your complete recreation and relaxation.

Amorgos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

If you want to polish your French or Italian, Amorgos is the place to do it, because the island is full of tourists from these two countries – which proves their good taste. The easternmost island of the Cyclades is famous for its beautifully preserved main village, Hora, and its celebrated crystal clear waters, immortalised in Luc Besson’s movie “The Big Blue”. The island is a quiet place where you will enjoy archetypical Cycladic architecture, traditional 106/amorgos

customs and reasonable prices. The island has two ports, Katapola and Aegiali, and plenty of small settlements inland which are worth a visit to observe the lifestyle of the islanders, especially if you visit at the time of a panigiri (festivals held on saints’ days, the main one being on August 15th). Amorgos is dry and mountainous with its three highest peaks reaching between 630-890 metres high. Walking, diving and climbing are

some of the islanders’ favourite pastimes and Amorgos Diving Centre (Aegiali, +30 22850 73611, email: scuba@ amorgos-diving.com, www.amorgos-diving. com) plans all three. The small company started with diving trips around Amorgos’s coast line and soon added hiking and walking tours, all led by experienced guides. In recent years, local authorities have mapped and marked seven main footpaths which connect the main villages. This initiative

has proved a great success, with groups of islanders and tourists criss-crossing hills and valleys all year round. As you hike through the arid land, you encounter small white churches (ksoklisia), cisterns built to retain much needed rain water and herds of goats grazing between shrubs. Between the mountains, the hinterland reveals the valley of Kolofana at the west, the biggest on the island and the small valley of Katapola at the centre. Look up and

Amorgos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

you see the windmills standing proudly on the mountain ridge. All those adventurous souls out there, you’d be happy to know that Amorgos has added itself in the geocaching community (an elaborate treasure hunt). If your mobile phone has a GPS, log in www. geocaching.com, follow the instructions and you’re good to go. The website www.amorgosisland-magazine.com has, among other island information, tips on geo108/amorgos

caches stashed around the island, as well as a relevant map. A walk around Hora reveals the slow paced life of the islanders. People leave their doors open, whiffs of oven cooked beef escape from the green and red shutters and stray cats roam around lazily, hoping to find a little something to eat. Just like the other Cycladic villages, this one also was under Venetian rule and has a castle to prove it. It was built by

Jeremiah Gizis in the 13th century to defend the island against invaders who also built the church of Agios Georgios (Saint George). The mansion of Gavras houses the Archaeological Museum (open Tue-Sun 09:00-13:00 and 18:00-20:30) with its impressive selection of statues, parts of columns and utensils dug out from three ancient settlements on the island. Tholaria is the most picturesque village

inland from Aegiali and should be visited in the evening for dinner and a view of the sunset. Langada village, just before Tholaria, is just as charming and worth a visit. Islanders gather at the square of the lower neighbourhood (kato gitonia) to play bocce with old ladies looking on from their house entrances. Perched perilously on a rocky mountainside 300 metres above sea level, the Byzantine monastery of Panagia Hozoviotisa, patron saint of the island, has a remarkable collection of rare icons and manuscripts. Climbing up the endless stone steps is a feat in its own merit, but the view from the small plateau which marks the entrance to the monastery is well worth the effort. The monastery was built by Byzantine Empreror Alexios Komninos in 1088. If you’re in Amorgos on November 21st, join locals at the panigiri organised at the monastery for a special treat of free local specialties and loads of dance. Another interesting sight on the island is the villa of Iannis Xenakis - Greek composer, theorist and architect - built for his daughter and her husband between 1966 and 1977, close to Lefkes village, overlooking the gulf of Tirokomos. Xenakis, who worked at Le Corbusier’s studios between 1947 and 1959, designed a typical Cycladic

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

building with clear modernist elements, like the thunderbolt-like openings on the walls. Built between 1966 and 1977, it consists of four white separate buildings forming a curve. Amorgos has a few beaches which are easily accessible, but for the rest you will need to do some easy or more serious hiking. Get a map, a bottle of water and walking shoes and you’re ready to go. A favoured option is Agia Anna, whose crystal clear blue waters featured in "The Big Blue".

If you continue driving past Agia Anna you will find Kambi, a beach popular with nudists. In southeastern Amorgos, close to Vroutsi village is Mouros beach which can be reached by car and then you descend a dirt path for 10 minutes to reach its rocky shore. Psili Ammos beach is a long stretch of sand with pristine water which can be reached either by boat, or by a 35-minute walk. After a 20-minute walk from Ormos, you will see Levrosos, the perfect beach for nudists. At the south, there is sandy Perivolas, the small cove of Kato Kambos, Paradisia and Kalotaritisa. From Kalotaritisa you can cross by boat to the uninhabited

▼

LiFOchoice Amorgos

YPERIA 2015 110/amorgos

island of Gramvousa for a swim. The quiet beach of Agios Pavlos is close to the namesake village. At the tip of the cove, a 10-metre long stretch of white sand forms a natural, picture perfect “peninsula”. If the beach is full by the time you reach it, walk about 20 minutes south of Agios Pavlos and you will find small secluded beaches. From the side of Katapola, you will find in turn the organised Maltezi beach, Agios Panteleimonas, Kato Akrotiri and Finikies. Amorgian women are known as excellent embroiders. The linen and silk white headscarves embroidered with floral patterns make for a gorgeous neck scarf.

YPERIA 2015 www.yperia.gr

The Cultural Association of Tholaria, Amorgos, and Aegialis Hotel & Spa organize, for the 13th consecutive year, the International Convention on Tourism and Culture YPERIA, from October 21st to October 26th 2015. The convention aims to promote the natural beauty and culture of Amorgos, foster an exchange of ideas on cultural heritage preservation, as well as present and promote current projects on the island of Amorgos. Tourism professionals, journalists, academics and the general public are invited to attend and contribute to the Convention. The main

Their level of artistry and detailed work has earned Amorgian embroidery a place in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which houses a finely embroidered linen strip from the 18th century. Amorgos is not a party island, but you will find a few quiet bars to sip your beer.

Getting there: There are many daily ferry and catamaran services connecting Piraeus and Rafina ports with Amorgos. For ferry websites check the Getting to and from the islands section.

scope of discussion will be “Amorgos: Trails from the Past to the Future. Socio-economic, cultural and environmental prospects” and will encompass topics related to ecosystem and landscape protection, accessible tourism, folk culture and development on small islands, local products and the Aegean cuisine, as well as the process of inclusion of the island’s landmark, the magnificent Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Amorgos

Botilia Bar

Tratarisma pastry shop

Lagada village, +30 22850 73192, +30 6973270512

Tratarisma

A lovely coffee-pastry shop surrounded by a beautiful mediterranean garden awaits you in the village of Lagada. Antonis, the chef, prepares and offers every

day a special breakfast and amazing delicacies! Come and enjoy the view of endless blue while tasting pastries, eastern sweets, tarts, cakes and all kinds of drinks!

Botilia Bar Ηora,

+30 6936184321

Everyone comes here to see the garden, to try the different and imaginative cocktails and to sing/dance at the – mostly foreign – music, from all genres and all decades.

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Serifos 112/SERIFOS

Amazing sandy beaches will keep you by the sea all day long, in this beautifull small island.

Serifos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Serifos is a very dry island, even by Cycladic standards, but beautiful nonetheless. As the ferry approaches to the port, you see the characteristic white, sugar-lump-like houses of Hora, the islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; main town, covering the hillside like spilt milk. According to the myth, Serifos was first inhabited by the Cyclopes, the mythical one-eyed monsters who built and worked the local iron mines, producing wealth for the island and which they later

114/SERIFOS

passed on to humans. On a more historical note, archaeological evidence shows the island was inhabited in turn by the Cretans, Phoenicians and the Mycenaeans. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fairly organised bus service connecting the port, Livadi, to Hora, but the best idea is to rent a car so that you can discover the villages and beaches scattered around the island. Right next to Livadi is the crescent-shaped Avlomonas beach, one

of the busiest places to lay your sea-towel. Livadakia beach is only a short walk away from the port and further south is the wide, sandy Karavi beach, preferred by nudists. North of the port is Lia beach, the popular and noisy Psili Ammos and the sandy, long Agios Ioannis. On the southwestern coast is Megalo Livadi, a seafront village next to the abandoned iron mines. Close to Megalo Livadi is another secluded cove called Malliathiko. North of Megalo Livadi

is the quiet and pebbled Avessalos beach. South of Psili Ammos is Agios Sostis beach located on one side of a small rocky peninsula. On the south coast is the pebbled and secluded Ganema beach Getting there: There are many direct, daily ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Serifos. Check the Getting to and from the islands section for ferry websites.

Serifos

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

and right next to it is the sandy Vaya, where you have to bring an umbrella as there is not one green leaf in site. On the southeastern tip of the coast is Kalo Ambeli, a small cove formed by two jutting rock formations, where you will probably be alone. Bring water and food. Driving to the north-east is the small Kendarhos beach (follow the path from Kallitsos village) with its few tamarisks providing much-needed shade. Last but not least, Sykamia beach on the northwest is a popular

place dotted with the colourful umbrellas of tourists. For those who seek a little action on the beach, try Serifos Scuba Divers (Livadi, +30 22810 52005, www. serifosscubadivers.gr), who organise diving trips, walks into the old mines of Megalo Livadi and all water sports, including the newest craze, Flyboard. Hora is a beautiful, quiet village with archetypical Cycladic architecture and friendly locals. The ruined 15th century Venetian castle towering the village offers a great opportunity for

a walk and panoramic views of the island and beyond. Right on the top of the steep hill is the church of Agios Constantinos. Back in the village, the neoclassical Town Hall and the small Archaeological museum (+30 22810 51181) are worth a visit. A nearby neoclassical house houses the Folk Art Museum (open from 18:00-21:00), where local costumes and tolls are exhibited. Behind the building thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an open-air theatre with 300 seats which houses the annual music festival.

At the north of Hora is the deserted settlement of Pyrgos which comes to life on the festival (panigiri) held on Assumption Day (August 15th). In the village of Megalo Livadi, the old buildings and rails are a testament to the once lively community of the miners who lived and worked in the area. You can still visit the abandoned mines, which closed in 1963, and see the old loading bridge rusting under the hot sun.

▼ LiFOchoice Serifos

Albatros

Albatros Hotel

Αvlomonas beach, Livadi, Serifos, +30 22810 51148

The hotel is situated next to Avlomona’s beach at Livadi and near the port of Serifos. It has 22 pleasant rooms equipped with air con, fridge, wifi, TV etc. Close to the hotel

Aliktipo

you will find the Wildlife Sanctuary, the Church of Kimiseos, a minimarket and all the bars of the island, where you can have a drink.

Aliktipo studios

Livadi, +30 22810 51000

Modern, comfortable and fully equipped

rooms with a tasteful decoration. They are located just 50 metres from Livadi beach and offer vieviews over the town of Serifos.

Calma

Indingo

Indingo pano piazza

Barbarossa

Pano Hora, plateia Dimarxeiou, +30 22810 52696

About a year ago, the pirates returned to the island of Serifos and conquered the town, offering moments of true relaxation and bliss. The raids on snacks and coffees begin early in the afternoon and in the evening they give way to the intoxicating aromas of rum, perfect cocktails and traditional sweet dishes. Experience the famous 122/SERIFOS

hospitality of Serifos while tasting food and beverage all prepared with well-chosen materials and pure drinks. Visit the beautiful island of Serifos, enjoy the wonderful beaches and the Barbarossa will become your personal base on the island!

and has sun loungers and tables where you can enjoy yourself eating good breakfast and drinking coffee. In early afternoon, Calma operates as a restaurant offering seafood while in the evening the atmosphere becomes mellower and more romantic.

and cold dishes you will also find delicious crepes, waffles and fresh homemade desserts. Sit either at the small green yard, or on the comfy sofas outside, right on the sand.

Indingo pano piazza

Hora, +30 22810 52566

Calma Livadi, +30 22810

Indingo Livadi, +30 22810

52328

51956

A modern venue in Serifos with a relaxed atmosphere. It is located over Livadi beach

A well-known, all day café bar exactly over the beach of Livadi. Apart from light snacks

Indingo’ s young brother is located on the central square of Hora, right across the neoclassical city hall of Serifos. It opens in the morning with coffee,

light snacks and offers relaxed drinks in the evening.

ď °Serifos Real Estate

Livadi, +30 22810 52089, www.serifosrealestate. grinfo@serifosrealestate.gr

One of the most active real estate companies in Cyclades. Serifos Real Estate specializes in the island of Serifos, as well as in the wider area of western Cyclades and provides a wide range of

management and real estate services including purchase, sale, rental, renovation and interior design.

ď °Yacht club Livadi, +30 2810

51888

A traditional coffee shop with a view over the Aegean blue. It first attracts you with the smell of coffee mainly Greek - and then, when you take a seat, with the delicious spoon sweets and biscuits.

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

The hidden jew Apart from islands which feature every year in travel and lifestyle magazines and attract the bulk of visitors, the last couple of decades attention has shifted towards less visited destinations, like Anafi, Ikaria, Kimolos and Folegandros, to name but a few. These have become favourite destinations for people who are tired of the usual tourist trail and are eager to lay their towel on a secluded beach and explore villages which offer a glimpse of traditional life. Some of these islands may require three days to discover, others can be criss-crossed in 24 hours. You do not need a guide for these islands. All you need is reasonable shoes, plenty of sunblock and an adventurous spirit. 124/GREEK ISLANDS

ANAFI

Anafi is a small gem of an island, better known as the next boat stop after Santorini. Its proximity to its famous neighbour (just an hour on the ferry) has rendered it increasingly popular, so go there while it’s still unspoiled from mass tourism. The island is perfect for relaxation and, to that end, boasts some beautiful beaches like Megalos Roukounas, the longest and busiest, Klisidi –a small cove with a whitewashed chapel overlooking the beach– as well as the more secluded

Flamorou and Katsouni. Its main village, Hora, is a 10-minute bus ride away from the port, Agios Nikolaos. A whiff of oregano floods your nostrils all over Anafi and it is said that the island produces some of the best thyme honey. Make sure you buy some, together with a variety of Mediterranean herbs from the tourist shops at the main port. The island’s geological highlight is a tall monolithic rock jutting from the eastern end of Anafi. The 420-metre formation is Mt. Kalamos and on its top sits an abandoned monastery

wels of Greece Panigiria in Ikaria

with indescribable views of the Aegean. If you like hiking it is well worth the walk, but start early in the day to avoid the heat of noon and bring water and food. For more information check

www.anafi.gr.

Ikaria

Ikaria is an oddball of an island, mostly preferred by laidback youngsters. It belongs to the northeastern cluster of islands and, with a size of 255 square km, is considered as medium sized. Ikarians are known for their longevity (the island was added to the Blue Zones of the

planet - places where most locals live over 90) and their unique sense of time, which is a diplomatic way of saying that shops open and close at irregular times: some open at noon, others at night and others choose to close at 3am. Life is definitely easy going and if you’re ok with that, you will enjoy your stay on the island. There are two ports, Evdilos and Agios Kirikos - the quiet capital of the island and a good place to start your walks. The best time to visit is during one of Ikaria’s famous

panigiria (festivals held on saints’ days). The most famous is held at the village of Hristos, Rahes on 6th August, when celebrations are known to turn wild with traditional music and locals dancing the famed Ikariotikos dance. The island also celebrates on 15th August at Langada village. Ikaria’s famed hot mineral springs are reputed to relieve symptoms of arthritis and rheumatism and are located at Therma, just outside of Agios Kirikos. The island's best beaches are at Armenistis, Nas – preferred by nudists –

and Prioni, formed by a series of secluded natural coves. Windsurfers prefer Mesakti for its strong winds and golden sand and Seychelles, a beach in southern Ikaria whose nickname aptly describes it. One point to remember is that sea currents in Ikaria can be very strong and a number of drownings have been reported. If you’re travelling with kids, make sure they’re not left unattended and have a second person watching you while you’re in the water. Take a day trip to nearby Fournoi islands to complete

☛

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

your experience. For more information, check

www.island-ikaria. com.

Kimolos

Time also seems to have forgotten the picturesque island of Kimolos. Life here moves slowly with locals gathering in quaint squares and 126/GREEK ISLANDS

children playing carelessly for hours. Horio – the main village – is a pleasant surprise, with its winding streets, picturesque squares and flowerfilled yards with striking fuchsia bougainvilleas growing against white walls. Go there by noon and the only sound you will hear in the village is the mo-

notonous buzz of the cicadas which seem to disregard the quiet hours. The rest of the island’s settlements are inhabited mostly during the summer and include the small port of Psathi, and the sandy beaches of Prasa, Goupa, Aliki, Dekas and Bonatsa. Sights of interest include the fortress of Paleokastro

at the centre of the island and further down you will see the massive, mushroomshaped stone formation called Skiadi. In Horio, the small Archaeological Museum traces the history of the island through many artefacts and pictures, while the 19th century church of Panagia Odigitria

Folegandros

right across the museum houses the old Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary. Along the coast of Kimolos you will often find fishermen repairing their nets and cleaning their boats. Take a day trip to uninhabited Poliegos Island for a swim at its beautiful beaches and explore the abandoned monastery and the

lighthouse. Kimolos can be reached by daily ferry services from nearby Milos. For more information, check

www.kimolos.gr.

Folegandros

Folegandros is the new hit of the Aegean, with its rocky, dry landscape and scenic main village attracting eclectic visi-

tors. The meandering alleys of Hora, perched on a high rock overlooking the Aegean, lead the visitor through three consecutive small squares, flanked by whitewashed houses and colourful wooden doors. Cars have thankfully been banned from entering the village, so the only traffic you will encounter is locals going about their business. Your walk will bring you to the medieval kastro (=castle), whose walls nowadays form part of the surrounding houses. There are several small tavernas and cafés scattered around the village offering traditional food (soft souroto cheese, matsata spaghetti) and desserts (sweet watermelon pie) to hungry visitors. The second settlement is the agricultural Ano Meria, where you can visit the Folk Art Museum. Hikers will enjoy the clearly

marked footpaths criss-crossing the dry land. Folegandros’s beaches are mostly rocky and small but the waters are crystal clear. Two of them are reachable by car: Karavostasi – the main port and the beaches close to it - and sandy Angali, but for the rest you will need to walk along dirt paths for as long as an hour or take one of the small boats which service them. Remember to carry plenty of water and a few sandwiches as none of those beaches have shops nearby. The island has rather limited accommodation options which raise prices, especially in August, so remember to book ahead of your arrival. The island has only one ATM, so remember to bring cash. You can rent a car or motorcycle at the port of Hora. For more information, check

www.folegandros.gr.

THE GREEK ISLANDS FOR VISITORS

Useful tips

There are a few things you need to know before you embark on your dream island holiday.

Items that will prove useful on your trip: Apart

remember that you run the risk of being harassed by

a broad-rimmed sun hat, you should also bring

bet for a safe camp is to choose a destination off the

from sunblock, sunglasses, walking shoes and

plenty of mosquito repellents (creams, lotions, etc.),

a universal plug adapter and one or two good reads for the beach or your longer or shorter boat trips to and from the islands.

Ladies, I know your swimsuits are beautiful, but make sure you are wearing appropriate

clothing when visiting a church or monastery.

Trousers or skirt to cover your thighs and a shirt will

do the trick. Men should also wear a T-shirt and long trousers. Excluding religious sites, you are urged to be sartorially adventurous.

Nudism is not illegal in Greece but there is a law against “breaching public morality”. The law is rather vague but essentially means

you cannot be naked in public. However, it is widely tolerated, provided you abide to the basic rule of choosing a secluded beach (i.e. with no families

around). In a handful of islands you may find sign

posts on the beach, designating it as nudism-friendly. Generally, the more isolated the beach, the more

likely it is to be populated by nudists. A good source of information is the tourists who have been on the island longer than you.

the police or a local home/taverna owner. The best

mainstream tourist’s radar, like Anafi, Ikaria and the

small Cyclades. The unwritten rule for campers is to

leave the site exactly as you found it –or better. Take a last look around before you leave, making sure you have not forgotten any garbage, and discard any items in the appropriate bins.

Tourists often look puzzled by signs or an-

nouncements made by boat owners that a

trip to a certain beach is cancelled because

of “bad weather”, when in fact there’s not a single cloud in the sky and the sunlight is glaring. Boat

owners are referring to the winds. In most islands during the summer – and especially in Cyclades

– northern winds (known as meltemia) can be too strong for small boats to navigate around rocky

peninsulas, especially when they’re packed with

tourists. Boat owners choose to play it safe so that

you don’t throw up in their caique. Choose a beach at a walking distance for the day and try again

tomorrow. To avoid disappointment, do not leave the best (and furthest) beach for last. If the sea is calm on your first day on the island, go to the one which is only approached by boat. You never know when the winds will pick up.

Free camping is forbidden. You are only al-

Was it helpful? Feel free to send your feedback,

exist in all the above islands. Having said this,

Daphne Papadopoulou at daphnepa@gmail.com.

lowed to camp in official camping sites which

you could perhaps camp out on a remote beach, but

128/useful tips

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