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aw 2013 - ‘The Fashion Issue’ - Issue 3
the fashion issue
Fashion’s latest recruit Wretch 32 discusses music, style and Harry Styles
business
> style > entertainment > CARS > FOOD > TECH
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The way to grow The way to grow
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Welcome
letter
A note from the editorial director
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hen you think of fashion, London might not be the first city which comes to mind... But things are changing. The past few months have been huge for fashion designers here in London, with London Collections: Men and London Fashion Week both taking place. London Collections saw some of the world’s best menswear designers - including Tom Ford, Burberry Prorsumand Paul Smith - previewing their Spring Summer 2014 collections. We’ve edited down the collections into our favourite designers, accompanied by a look back at the entire three-day event, from page 20 onwards. Keeping with the fashion theme, we take a look at the incredible collaboration between Savile Row’s Nick Hart and Merdeces AMG, who together have crafted a very special version of Mercedes’ Shooting Brake. And the fashion doesn’t stop there. Cover-star Wretch 32 speaks to Magnate about his appearence in Oliver Spencer’s London Collection’s show, giving a unique insight into what it’s like to walk a catwalk
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for the very first time. Wretch also talks about his music past, present and future, before admiting that he’s a bit of a ‘Directioner’. Read the full interview from page 34 onwards. And to top everything off, we spoke with England cricketer Stuart Broad about his astonishing cricketing career, his cars and his best pick-up line, on page 16. One more thing - look out for announcements about a special event we’ll be holding next year, to celebrate Magnate’s first birthday and to launch some exciting new things. It’ll be somewhere in London and you’ll have a chance to come along. We’re entering the most exciting time so far at Magnate and we can’t wait to share what we’ve been working on as we move into 2014. Enjoy the issue.
Sean Spooner Editorial Director
reach the team Sean Spooner Editorial Director sean@magnate.co spoonersean Zachary Jarvis Business Development zachary@magnate.co jarviszachary Jonny Rowntree Digital Director jonny@magnate.co jonnyrowntree
@MagnateUK Magnate Magazine www.magnate.co
Contents issue 3 - Autumn 2013 - the fashion issue
page 20 London Collections
on the cover
what’s in this issue
magnate www.magnate.co
autumn 2013 - ‘The Fashion Issue’ - Issue 3
08.
The Essentials
23.
The Designers
10.
Guestlist: Burberry
30.
Mercedes and Spencer Hart
14.
One Step Ahead
34.
Wretch 32
Stuart Broad
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Fashion’s latest recruit
London Collections
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16.
Wretch 32 discusses music, style and Harry Styles
> style > entertainment > CARS > FOOD > TECH
page 34
Wretch 32
Cover: British chart-topping rapper ‘Wretch 32’ Jermaine Scott Sinclair
A detailed look at the best collections from LCM
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the fashion issue
business
Our short but sweet guide on the things which you need in your life
20.
Take a look at what the guests at Burberry’s LCM show wore
Our edit of everything you need to make running fun again
We sit down with England and Twenty20 cricketer Stuard Broad
A round up of all three days at London Collections: Men
A preview of Spencer Hart’s collaboration with Mercedes AMG
Extended interview with British rapper Wretch 32
A Guide to ‘The Selfie’
Everyone’s taking ‘selfies’ these days. Get involved with our guide.
Last Word from Nunney
Regular columnist Be Nunney on why he doesn’t ‘get’ fashion
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autumn 2013 - ‘The Fashion Issue’ - Issue 3
FREE
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: SEAN SPOONER BUSINESS DEVELOPEMENT: ZACHARY JARVIS DIGITAL: JONNY ROWNTREE CONTRIBUTING TEAM
the fashion issue
Fashion’s latest recruit Wretch 32 discusses music, style and Harry Styles
business
PRASHAM PATEL CONTRIBUTOR
BEN NUNNEY CONTRIBUTOR
CALLUM FITZSIMONS SUB-EDITOR
PAUL GIBBONS (REACH) DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR
DRAWINGS/GRAPHICS KONNAIRE SCANNELL CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RICK GUEST, DAVE BIRD
> style > entertainment > CARS > FOOD > TECH
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Our guide to the things you need in your life
The Essentials
ART
apps
Ways of Seeing - Joe Black
Recently at The Opera Gallery
Artist Joe Black’s ‘Ways of Seeing’ exhibition is about the smaller details. Take ‘Obama, Shoot To Kill’ for example; on first glance it’s a photograph of President Obama, but when you look closer you’ll notice that it’s made up of 11,000 hand-painted toy soldiers. The exhibition, which was on display until 18th November at the Opera Gallery, is a collection of portraits made out of thousands of items, including a piece depicting Chairman Moa, entitled ‘Workers Of The World Unit!’, which is made up of over 15,000 plastic toy soldiers. Another piece called ‘Does My Bum Look Big In This?’ shows Valentina Tereshkova, the first female Russian astronaut, made out of 12,702 pieces of Lego and over 5,000 plastic flowers. Although the exhibition has ended, you can view this entire collection of fascinatingpieces online at MrJoeBlack.com. www.operagallery.com - www.mrjoeblack.com
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YPLAN
Free in App Store YPlan is your guide to what’s going on in London tonight. Find, book and attend some of the hottest events on the spur of the moment.
appdaq
Free in App Store Appdaq allows you to trade virtual shares in some of the most popular apps, including Instagram and Facebook, without the risk.
Get daily essentials follow @magnateuk
album
entertainment
Random Access Memories
Daft Punk
£8.99
from iTunes
It’s been out for a while now, but we’re still not over Daft Punk’s Random Access Memories. It’s the fourth album by French duo Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Hoemm-Christo, and sees them collaborate with some legendary musical names, including Nile Rodgers, Pharrell Williams, Giorgio Moroder, Paul Williams, Todd Edwards and more. From the up-beat feeling of ‘Get Lucky,’ to the epic, sweeping and in places confusing ‘Touch,’ the album will take you on a journey of sound. On first listen, it may not be what some die-hard Daft Punk fans would exepct, and can feel dragged out in parts, but given another listen, the Daft Punk genius shines through. Random Access Memories is available on iTunes for £8.99.
GTA V
You already have it, right? £45.74 - Play.com
Roaring Twenties Rizzle Kicks £8.99 - iTunes
Film
jOBS
Directed by Joshua Michael Stern and featuring Aston Kutcher, Jobs follows a young Steve Jobs from his days as a student in 1974, right the way through to the release of the iconic iPod in 2001. The film - which is expected to be released here in the UK in the Q1 of 2014 - is the first film to explore the world of Steve Jobs since his passing.
Image Credits: Estate of Roy Lichtenstein
Expected early-2014
Jobs, played by Aston Kutcher
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The GuestList EVENT: Burberry Prorsum SS14 LOCATION: Kensington Garden
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Photo by Dave M Benett/Getty Images
GUESTLIST INCLUDED: Tinie Tempah, David Gandy, Greg James, Christopher Bailey, Dermot O’Leary and Jack + Finn
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As the home of British style online, Country Attire aim to fulfil every sartorial requirement by offering a handpicked selection of premium brands which exude effortless sophistication. 3
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Luxury lifestyle pieces are carefully selected from Britain and around the globe to offer a complete look which represents the British attitude towards style. With a vast collection of heritage brands including Belstaff and Sunspel, alongside contemporary favourites such as Vivienne Westwood and Dr Martens, Country Attire brings the essence of British style directly to you.
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All products available at www.countryattire.com
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1) Canada Goose Men’s Chateau Parka – Military Green - £599.95. 2) Dents Men’s Cashmere Lined Leather Gloves – Black - £59.95. 3) Sunspel Men’s Long Sleeve Jersey Polo Shirt – Charcoal Melange - £79.95. 4) Derek Rose Pima Cotton Stretch Hipster Shorts – White - £28.95. 5) Dr.Martens Men’s Windsor Bentley Brogue Boot – Black - £179.95. 6) Hackett Union Jack Piece Duffle Bag – Multi - £149.95. 7) Victorinox Men’s Chrono Classic Watch – Black Face Chrome Strap - £499.95. 8) Vivienne Westwood Plain Scarf with Coloured Orb Logo – Burgundy - £55.95. 9) Hugo Boss – Boss Orange – Barcelona Jeans – Dark Blue - £109.95. 10) Barbour Men’s Kirkham Half Button Sweater – Barley - £119.95. 11) Belstaff GSR Men’s Leather Shoreham Bomber Blouson – Golden Khaki - £1,295.95. 11) Sorel Men’s Caribou Boot – Buff - £145.95. 13) Murdock London Men’s Avalon Post Shave Balm - 100ml - £42.95. 14) Napapijri Semiury Hat – Blu Marine - £34.95.
advertorial
Whatever you do; do it with Panache t’s a fact that one of the downsides of living and working in the capital is the stressful and unreliable public transport network. From Tube upgrades to bus diversions, the system is plagued with problems which can you make you late and ruin your day. But have you ever considered hiring a chauf feur? Hiring a chauffeur driven car is by far the most comfortable and stylish way to get around the city, and with Panache it’s also surprisingly affordable. Our cars are equipped to the highest of standards with everything you need to work on the go, allowing you to forget about the traffic and stay focused on what’s important to you. From the moment you step inside a Panache car you’re a world away from the hustle and bustle going on outside. We’ll take care of everything whilst you relax in your adjustable seat and enjoy complimentary chilled Fiji water. If you have work to do, the back of our cars are the perfect environment to get it done. Connect to our complimentary high-speed Wifi and plug in your laptop, and work with ease, as if you’re back at your desk.
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You’re also covered if you have to make a phone call. Most of our cars are fitted with wireless telephones which can be used at any point during your journey. Sometimes, work is the last thing you want to do after a long day in the office. If all you want to do it unwind on your journey home, take your pick from a selection of programmes and channels on the in-car TVs, or read the latest news or magazines on the iPad. Our cars cater for both work and play, with everything you need to keep your day moving, even when the traffic isn’t. One of our long-term clients is James Morris, Managing Director of JF Marquees. Speaking about Panache’s service he said “Panache offer me an unparalleled service. All I have to do is email them a list of locations for the day, and then leave it up to their expertise to deal with the stress of the traffic, whilst managing my tight schedule. “I can then get on with my job for the day and move my office to one of their extremely comfortable and well equipped cars. “Using Panache means my working day is smooth, uninterrupted, and more importantly, efficient.
“I connect using their in-car Wifi allowing me to catch up on all my emails, call clients and touch base with the office during the day. I also catch up on the Breakfast TV news and browse the newspaper on the in-car iPad to brief myself for the day ahead. Even though I’m away from my office and my staff, Panache fill any gaps, being on hand to assist, much like having my assistant with me. “We are consistently impressed with the professional and attentive service from Panache. Not only would we recommend them to our clients but we also trust them to look after
our friends and family. It’s fair to say they absolutely deliver everything they promise, and always without a hitch.” As well as providing a tailored service throughout London and Surrey, we are also ideally placed for any airport transfers or any longer journeys you may need to make. Panache Chauffeur Hire can also provide cars for special occasions, including a range of Rolls Royces and Bentleys. And when it comes to evening engagements, Panache is by far the best option for getting to-andfrom your night out.
Darren Thomas, Founder of Panache
Our professional and diligent drivers will make sure that you get home safely, without you having to cut the night short to make the last train. Passenger safety is of paramount importance. Panache offers the complete package, from morning to night, getting you to where you need to be in style, comfort and most importantly, on time. From picking you up in the morning, taking you to the office or a meeting, dropping you off at an engagement and getting you home, we can be there to make sure that everything flows smoothly and without any stress.
We do all of this because we believe that chauffeuring is about most than simply getting from A-to-B. It’s about the experience. It’s about traveling in comfort. It’s about arriving in style. It’s about Panache offering a level of service which simply cannot be matched by any other form of transport in the capital; a form of transport which can help you make the most of your time. That’s why we say ‘Whatever you do; do it with Panache.’ To make an enquiry call 02078703766 or email info@panache-chauffeur.com. Quote ‘Magnate’ for 10% off of your first booking.
Specific features of vehicles vary. Not all cars have all features. Please check features whilst booking.
Photography by Dave Bird for Magnate
Whatever you do; do it with Panache.
Panache Chauffeur Hire is London and Surrey’s premier chauffeur service for discerning clientele. Please call to discuss your specific requirements. www.Panache-Chauffeur.com 020 7870 3766 01372 202 898
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tracking
footwear
audio
Nike Free Hyperfeel
Fitbit One
Free Hyperfeel is Nike’s new super lightweight running shoe, designed to fit like a second skin and give the sensation and comfort of running barefoot. The Hyperfeel sole is made up of ‘pistons’ which change depending on where you need support.
The FitBit One tracks your steps, activity and sleep, and gives you an online summary of your day. Metrics tracked include your steps, distance travelled, calories burned and stairs climbed, which makes for a pretty comprehensive brakedown of any workout.
The iSport Intensity in-ear earphones from Monster are designed to fit securely in your ears as you run, but allow enough external noise to enter your ears so that you are conscious of your surroundings.
Fitbit.com - £79.99
Selfridges.com - £79.99
Nike.com - Price TBC
Reebok One Collection
Nike Fuelband
Reebok haven’t built their One Collection from the ground up. Instead, they’ve worked from the front to the back of the shoe, totally rethinking the design process. The design is made up of three zones, the front with soft foam to support contact with the ground, the middle to help with glide and the back with an ultra-responsive high rebound foam to help propel you.
Fuelband is Nike’s answer to the activity tracker, turning your daily movements into a competition to secure the most ‘fuel.’ The more active and mobile you are throughout the day, the more Nike Fuel you’ll accumulate. You can compare your score against friends, through the Nike Fuel app. The wrist-worn device is fitted with a line of LED lights (ranging from green to red,) which show how active you are in real-time.
Reebok.com - £85.00
Monster iSport Intensity
Shure SE25 If you’re looking for a set of earphones which have near-on perfect sound quality, and which are designed to stay in your ears no matter what, the Shure SE215s are perfect. The sound quality is so good, in fact, that many musicians use the SE215s on stage as monitors. Shure.co.uk - £96.00
Nike.com - £129.95
Adidas boost Adidas’ new Energy Boost technology is more responsive than EVA foam and transfers more energy from the shoe to the legs as you run. The Boost foam works with your foot to move more energy into the legs are you run, therefore helping with all areas of your run.
Misfit Shine This coin size tracker records your runs, cycles and swims, meaning you can track your activity both on land and off. Syncing the device is as simple as placing the Shine on an iPhone screen.
Beats by Dre and NBA star Lebron James have teamed up to create a super-durable pair of eraphones which can cope with the stresses and strains of work-outs.
Adidas.com - £110.00
MisfitWearables.com - £65.00
BeatsByDre.com - £159.99
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LeBron James Powerbeats
s p o r t s
one step ahead Our edit of the best new sporting accessories for a better run.
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interview
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interview
interview
STUART BROAD Magnate sits down with England cricketer and Twenty20 Captain Stuart Broad. Interview by Prasham Patel
Stuart Broad is an Investec Cricket Ambassador. The specialist bank and asset manager is title sponsor of the Ashes. Investec.co.uk/cricket or @investeccricket
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to wait a long time to claim him 200th. I asked him what it felt like to finally get into the club, and the delay into reaching it, no thanks to team mate Joe Root who managed to drop a catch of Stuarts bowling. Stuart was able to see the funny side to Roots mishap and enjoyed a chuckle, and went on to say “It was very special, especially to get the Aussie skipper. It’s a nice club to join and a great privilege but hopefully there’s a lot left. I’m only 27, I feel like I’m hitting a peak and I want it to continue for as long as possible.” After the 4th test England head coach Andy Flower hailed Stuart as one of the greats of the game. I asked Stuart what impact Andy Flower has had on the squad. His response was “Andy’s been brilliant. He is disciplined and expects a lot from his players, which is usually rewarding for us. He also shows backing to the players, which is a strong place to be if you’re going through a rough patch.” Stuart’s enjoyed great successes with the ball, and has taken wickets of South African ODI captain AB DeVilliers the most followed by Australian captain Michael Clarke. However he also explains they are probably also the batsmen who hit him for the most runs and that it’s for the battles with the best players in the world which is why he plays. His greatest challenge was bowling to Australian great Ricky Ponting, who he explains was the best he has ever bowled to.
Bowling at Lord’s
Stuart describes the most memorable moment of his career as the 4th test of this Ashes series. He goes on to say that any time the Ashes is won, it is always a great moment in one’s career however he doesn’t feel as though he has performed as well as he did during the 4th test in Durham where England dramatically turned around a game they were looking like losing due to his efforts. Stuart’s father, Chris Broad was an England cricketer. I asked Stuart about whether that influenced his choice to become a cricketer, and what he would’ve liked to become had he not been a cricketer. His response was “It’s (cricket) always been an interest of mine. I grew up watching from the sidelines and playing on the outfield. I’d spend my free time watching videos, and so it’s always been a dream of mine. If not a cricketer, ideally I would have liked to have been a Formula 1 driver, I think the taller it
got, the less likely that was to happen. I’d love to have been a top gear presenter or something similar because I do enjoy my cars and it looks like they have a fun time.” I later asked about what his dream car would be, and he found it hard to look past a large Range Rover that “… look like you’re driving your lounge around.” That or the Lamborghini Aventador, that’s “as wide as a double decker bus” however he’s unsure that he’d be able to get that one past his mum, as she’d get embarrassed. But he cannot complain with his Jaguar XKR for the moment, he tells me. I asked Stuart about what would be his life ambition aside from cricket. He answered by explaining that he would find a cure for Motor Neurone Disease if he could. He already raises money and awareness through his charity, The Broad Foundation. It’s something he spends time on as it has affected loved ones and as a result it is
Images: Rayand - Creative Commons Attributions.
wenty seven year old Stuart Broad has grown into one of the most dangerous fast bowlers in world cricket, and is an important part of the England squad, after recently becoming the Twenty20 captain. England have already retained and won the Ashes series 2013 after 4 test matches leading Australia 3-0. Stuart describes the incredible reaction the squad has received by the supporters, and that within the camp there is a great hunger to go on and win the series 4-0 given that no other team has beaten the Aussies by such a score line. Those who have been following the incredible series will know about the DRS system, where the captains are able to review an umpire’s decision. Throughout the series there has been great controversy in that reviews have impacted spirit of the game, as well as simply the review system making errors. I asked Stuart about whether it’d change the way people will look perceive this famous series in the future to which he responded, “I think it’ll have little impact, little instances don’t get talked about, people will generally remember the results and the fantastic style of cricket we have played” Stuart recently became only the 15th man in an England shirt to take 200 test wickets. He bowled a sublime Yorker to Aussie captain Michael Clarke as his 199th victim, but had
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something he wishes to raise awareness of. An ideal weekend for Stuart would be “Well this week, beat the Aussies again and win the Ashes Friday. Spend all Friday evening celebrating with all my teammates with a beer, enjoying the experience. I’d go home Saturday having lunch with the family, and then watch Forest beat Derby 5-0 at the City ground. Catch up with mates Saturday evening round my house for a barbecue. Sunday I’d drive to my mums for a big Sunday roast after which I’d play 18 holes at Stanford Park. Then stick a film on and fall asleep in front of the fire.” I believe the term used in these circumstances would be thug life. A few England cricketers including Stuart were part of a calendar-esque shoot for Hugo Boss. Naturally I asked if he considered himself stylish. He replied with a quick “Oh god! I was 21! But not really I’m very casual. Us sportsman tend to spend our time in trainers and that kind of thing. I do have a few tailored suits I do love putting on and I can look relatively smart, but I’m normally about in jeans and a hoodie.” Music wise Stuart is into pretty much anything. He spoke about his recent trip down to Essex at the weekend to V Festival in Chelmsford where in particular he enjoyed seeing up and coming singer Sam Smith, and although he doesn’t often see live music often he described Smith as actually incredible, and he
Timeline Broad’s rise to the top
2005
Joins the England U19 team
2006
ODI Debut vs Pakistan
2007
Test Match Debut vs Sri Lanka
2008
Scores his maiden Test fifty against New Zealand
2010
Injury keeps Broad out of two T20 matches
2012
Stuart celebrating a win
will be looking out for his album. To round off I wanted to know the Stuarts big secret. What is his best pick up line to pick up women? After a pause for laughter he modestly replied “I’m not the type of guy that goes up and chats to girls to be honest. I know it sounds unsociable but when out with mates, I only want to talk to them as I’m away all the time.” After some thought he did answer the
question with “What do penguins do when they jump up and down?... Break the ice, hi my name’s Stuart.” Naturally I questioned him as to why it wasn’t something like ‘Hi I’m Stuart Broad T20 captain of England’. After another laugh he explained he doesn’t play the England card and introduces himself as a physiotherapist. How humble, although perhaps a bit insulting, given his status.
Starts 2012 with his best international figures yet, of 7-72
2013
Gets to 200 test wickets
2008
Stuart snapped by Cosmopolitan for infamous ‘naked bat’ photo
2009
Plays first Ashes Test + First 5 wicket haul vs West Indes
2011
Takes test hattrick vs India 2013 Sets record of longest time spent at the crease without scoring a run, 103 mins
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fashion ondon Collections was born when British GQ editor Dylan Jones lead a drive to have a fashion week dedicated to menswear here in London. Now in its second successful year, London Collections: Men has quickly become one of the most important dates in the calendar for designers and tailors from both London and beyond. For three days in June, London was awash with designers including Tom Ford, Burberry Prorsum, Oliver Spencer, Hardy Amies, Spencer Hart, Dolce & Gabbana and Jimmy Choo all showcasing their Spring Summer 2014 collections. Events kicked off on Saturday 15th June, at an invite only event held by
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Dolce & Gabbana at their New Bond Street boutique. The launch was attended by the likes on Sir Paul Smith, Kylie Minogue and British menswear ambassador David Gandy. During the event Dolce & Gabbana introduced their 2014 summer tailoring range. The main programme of events got started on Sunday 16th June, with Topman Design leading the way presenting their ‘This. Is. Techno. Cowboy’ collection at the Topman Show Space. The eccentric collection was Topman’s take on the Western theme, with hand embroidered silk shirts, lose fitting trousers and dark glasses. Another of Sunday’s highlights was Hardy Amies presentation, which took place on the top floor of
30 St. Mary’s Axe. The most notable details of the collection were the cropped and tapered trousers and a splash of orange, two trends which carried through a lot of collections at LCM. Sunday was brought to a close with Spencer Hart’s show, which had an abundance of famous faces in attendance, including Conor Maynard, Dermot O’Leary, David Gandy and Oliver Cheshire. Hart’s collection was a strong mix of sharp suits and lose fitting shirts, creating a clean and minimalist look. Spencer Hart’s creative director Nick Hart also unveiled his collaboration with Mercedes, the Shooting Brake, in midnight blue, a colour created by Hart exclusively for the car.
Photo by Dave M Benett/Getty Images
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Monday was the turn of some of the big-guns, with shows from Jimmy Choo, Richard James, Alexander McQueen, Hackett and Oliver Spencer. Jimmy Choo’s event, at their King Street store in Covent Garden, saw a collection which drew insperation “from street style showcases in neighbourhoods on the fashion margins.” The collection was made up of both formal and more laid-back shoes, with the ‘hanging out’ line bringing out Choo’s urban side. The award for Monday’s sharpest suit had to go to Richard James, who held an event at BMW Showroom which was attended by a raft of famous faces. continues...
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One of the most colourful trends to emerge from London Collections was orange jackets and coats, shown above by Agi & Sam, Gieves & Hawkes and Hardy Amies. David Gandy at Burberry
Read our full LC:M trend report at Magnate.co
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The collection included both smart and casual outfits, with the stand-out look being a baby blue suit with matching espadrilles, worn with a fitted white shirt. In the urban, cobbled floor setting of St Martin’s Old College, Alexander McQueen showcased a collection based around simple black and white colours, long over coats and cropped trousers. Contrasting the simple colours were some bold and intricate symmetrical patterns. As is always the case, Oliver Spencer impressed guests at his presentation at The Old Sorting Office, where DJ Idris Elba took the decks, adding a soundtrack to proceedings. Oliver Spencer’s collection was made up of colourful classics with Oli’s usual twists. Soft shoulders and cropped trousers added to the casual looks. Teo van den Broeke, Associate Editor at Esquire and British rapper Wretch 32 both made appearances on the catwalk. Monday was brought to a close with a presentation which saw Hackett London transform Old Billingsgate Market from a Victorian arcaded market hall into a bussellin catwalk venue. Hackett’s collection was a showcase of quintessentially British tailoring, with dogstooth, pinstripe and tartan patterns cropping up throughout the collection. The final day of London Collections played host to TOM FORD, Paul Smith, Nicole Farhi, E. Tautz and Burberry Prorsum. Burberry’s Cheif Creative Officer Christopher Bailey 22
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Oli Spencer
Burberry’s Christopher Bailey
The Designers Over the next 6 pages, we profile the best-of-the-best. with collections from Oliver Spencer, Agi & Sam, Burberry Prorsum, Hardy Amies, Gieves & Hawkes and Nicole Farhi.
was on hand at the Burberry Prorsum event at Kensington Gardens, where the brand unveiled a casual collection full of blocks of primary colours. Highlights of the Burberry Prorsumcollection included a cashmere overcoat which appeared in several looks. Film director come fashion designer TOM FORD unveiled a collection at his Victoria HQ with his usual strict set of rules, which included no photography. The collection was a playful mix of Seventies-inspired pieces, which included floral trousers, high-shine jackets and slippers which came together to create colourful looks. What the collection lacked in everyday wearable fashion, it more than made up for in extravagance. David Attenborough was one of the more unusual inspirations for E Tautz’s Patrick Grant, whoes presentation included pieces inspired by Attenborough’s ‘Life of Birds’ programme. The collection had a London-centric core, with classic British pieces mixed with international looks. Just as soon as it started, London Collections: Men was over. After 22 presentations, hundreds of looks and thousands of attendees, proceedings came to a close with a presentation from Nasir Mazhar. The three-day event re-enforced further the importance for a menswear events here in London, whilst showcasing some of the best fashion talent which the capital has to offer. We’re already looking forward to more great presentations at LCM AW14.
Photo by Dave M Benett/Getty Images
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London Collections
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London Collections
Oliver Spencer
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London Collections
Gieves & Hawk
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motoring
eat your hart out When we heard that Spencer Hart’s founder Nick Hart had teamed up with Mercedes to design the CLS 63 AMG Shooting Brake, we just had to have a closer look.
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motoring ick Hart is a man who knows a thing of two about style. Since founding his Savile Row tailors Spencer Hart in 2002, he has dressed some of the world’s biggest stars, including Robbie Williams, Jay Z, P Diddy, David Bowie, Alex Turner and Benedict Cumberbatch. Because of this, when we heard that he had teamed up with Mercedes AMG to style the new CLS 63 AMG Shooting Brake, we were excited. Really excited. And the results didn’t disappoint. Unveiled after Spencer Hart’s London Collections: Men presentation, the Shooting Brake is the perfect mix between design and engineering, with AMG’s performance tuning put inside a car crafted with Hart’s attention to detail. Take the colour, for example. There are a million different shades of blue which car manufacturers can chose from, but none of these pleased Hart. Instead, he insisted on using Midnight Blue, which is ‘the ultimate version of black’ and is Spencer Hart’s signature colour, used throughout their tailoring. But Hart’s meticulous attention to detail didn’t stop with the colour of the car. On top of the Midnight Blue body sits all of the details and trimmings of the exterior, in a blackedout finishing, after Hart insisted on all chrome being removed, giving the Shooting Brake a ‘batmobile-esque’ feel. The incredible design doesn’t only extended to the exterior of the car. Take a
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Hart and the Shooting Brake
look inside and you’ll find a luxurious cabin which takes inspiration directly from “The Vault,” a personal shopping area at Spencer Hart’s flagship Brook Street store in London. For the interior Hart has specially sourced dark Chocolate Brown Italian leather seats with contrasting Midnight Blue stitching, with the Spencer Hart logo, embroidered into each headrest. This unique and striking design is given the personal touch with the addition of Nick Hart’s signature, found below the centre console. The incredible level of design and attention to detail is also found under the bonet of the Shooting Brake, with engineering by AMG’s high-performance team, the car’s performance
matches its appearance. The 5.5litre V8 engine reaches 60mph in just 4.4 seconds, and will continue to an electronically limited speed of 155mph. The biturbo engine delivers a total of 525 horsepower and 516 pound-feet of torque, mated to a 7-speed automatic sports transmission gear box. Although the shape of the car my be deceiving, this isn’t a ‘family car’. The performace of the CLS 63 is everything you’d expect from an AMG sports car; performance tuning. Explaining the idea behind the design of the car, Nick Hart said ‘some people want to have a car which just screams to everybody that it is an extrodanary car, but others want people to have to work it out a bit more... For people to look at your car and say ‘wow, that is such a cool car.’ What I like about it is that it is a car for outside. It’s a car for people who are confident about how and what they are, because it’s a bit ahead of anything else that is on the road at the moment. ‘It’s for people who want something without any compromise.’ The partnership was announced in June, and although there hasn’t been any sign of this version of the Shooting Brake on the roads yet, Mercedes were keen to stress that this isn’t a concept and that it would go into production. Prices for the standard model start at £81,570. www.SpencerHart.com www.mercedes-amg.com www.magnate.co
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interview
interview
wretch WRETCH 32 British rapper Wretch 32 talks Number 1 singles, walking the catwalk for Oliver Spencer and his affection for One Direction. Words: Sean Spooner Photography: Rick Guest
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interview s I sit in my hotel room in Birmingham my phone suddenly rings. Wretch 32 is on the other end and he has some exciting news to share. ‘I’m driving through St. John’s Wood, looking at all of the houses,’ he tells me ‘and they’re incredible.’ Though the thought of a 27-year-old from humble North London beginnings being able to afford a house in St. John’s Wood may not seem realistic, the dream might not be too far from a reality for Wretch – real name Jermaine Scott. Since his career kicked off just over two years ago with the release of his debut single ‘Traktor’, the Tottenham-born rapper has bagged three top 5 singles and enjoyed time at Number 1 in the Official Charts. ‘I had been working on material for years before any record label picked me up,’ Wretch tells me, ‘but progress back then was really slow. That’s why when I was finally noticed and signed to Ministry of Sound it felt like something really huge. ‘At the time I was working in the studio with a lot of people including Yogi, when L Marshall came in and recorded the great hook which you hear on Traktor. When we heard it we just knew that it had to be the debut single.’ When ‘Traktor’ was released in January 2011, it quickly climbed the charts, debuting at number 5, spending a total of six weeks in the Top 40. This kind of success was reflected with other singles,
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including ‘Unorthodox’ which peaked at number 2 in the charts, and ‘Don’t Go’ which entered the charts at Number 1, making it his most successful single to date. ‘All of the success which I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy over the last couple of years has been amazing. When you work for so long on something and then it gets a great reception from the public, it’s a beautiful thing and I’ll be forever grateful for that.’ After the success of his debut album ‘Black and White’, Wretch took some time away from the prying eyes of the public to rest and work on new material, he explained.
‘The support from fans is always humbling. When it comes to live performances - regardless of whether I’m performing to ten people or ten thousand people - I always feel incredibly humble and privileged that those people have spent their time and money to come and spend the evening with me and watch me perform. ‘Despite that, I think there are times in every artist’s careers where they need to just chill out and focus on making new material. I spent a period doing just that recently, and the new album is the result.’ Two singles have already been released from the new album; ‘Black Out’ and
‘Doing OK’. The two singles are polar opposites, according to Wretch. ‘For me, ‘Black Out’ feels like quite a sunset song, whereas ‘Doing OK’ is more positive, like a sunrise.’ Outside of the studio, Wretch recently tried something new, when he took the catwalk. Back in June he made his first ever appearance at a fashion show, as part of Oliver Spencer’s SS14 presentation at London Collections: Men, where he wore an all-red suit with matching shoes. ‘The Oli Spencer event was really random,’ Wretch explains. ‘It’s nothing like anything I’ve ever done before, but when they asked me if I wanted to be involved I couldn’t say no. ‘It’s my job to go on stage and perform to thousands of people whilst keeping my cool, so everyone just presumed that I’d be fine, but it’s actually quite daunting. All you really have to do it walk, but when you’re in a room which is so intimate, and everyone is looking at you, it’s a bit intimidating.’ Jermaine wasn’t the only well-known face at the Oliver Spencer show. Walking alongside him was Teo van den Broeke, Associate Editor at Esquire, and in the audience was fellow British rapper Tinie Tempah. Whilst at London Collections, Jermaine had the chance to check out some of the other designers. ‘My favourite collection from all of the events has to be Richard James. I really like his use of colour.
interview ‘The best way to describe his collection would have to be what happens when St. Tropez meets the British Gentleman. It’s clean tailoring mixed up with some really interesting colours.’ Despite the Oliver Spencer show being his first appearance on the catwalk, Wretch isn’t any stranger to being the face of a fashion brand. He was used as the face of Adidas’ advertising campaign during the London 2012 Olympic Games. I asked what this kind of exposure meant to him. ‘I think when it comes to something like the Olympics, any kind of involvement is something special, so I was really honoured when Adidas asked me to work with them on their campaign for the Games. ‘Being from London, it felt even more incredible being able to play my part when London was the host city.’ Although Jermaine is enjoying a successful solo career, he has taken time in the past to work with some of the biggest names in British music, including Ed Sheeran, Labrinth, Devlin, Cheryl Cole and Chipmunk. With this in mind, I took the chance to ask him what he though of the boy-band-ofthe-moment, One Direction. It’s safe to say that I wasn’t expecting the answer which he gave. ‘You know, I actually like One Direction. I took my son to see them a few month ago and it was one of the best nights of his life.’ explained Wretch, ‘but he’s only seven, so that’s fine.’ Given his enthusiasm to answer, I paused and let Wretch continue. ‘I think that
See more exclusive photos from Rick Guest’s shoot with Wretch 32 online at Magnate.co, where you can also view the entire Oliver Spencer presentation which Wretch appeared in.
Walking for Oliver Spencer
Harry Styles is amazing. Believe it or not he is actually one of my idols.’ With the hope of hearing news of a collaboration with One Direction in the pipeline, I asked Jermaine what we can expect in the next few months. ‘In 2014 the new album ‘Growing Over Life’ is being released. It contains ‘Doing OK’ and ‘Black Out’ as well as a lot of material which people are yet to hear. ‘Like with most debut albums, mine was very much about letting people know who I am and what I’m about. The latest album gives me the chance to get a lot more intimate and let people know what has been going on in my life through the medium of music. I’m excited to release it and see what the reaction is.’ As Wretch 32 and his music’s popularity continues to increase, so do the chances of him one day owning his own pad in St. John’s Wood. www.magnate.co
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a beginner’s guide to
[ The Selfie ] Everyone’s doing it, from Bieber to The Pope. Here’s how to kick-start your selfies
The Camera
The Platform
The Composition
The audiance
Apple iPhone
Strike a Pose
#HashtagsGalore
First thing’s first; you’re going to need a decent front facing camera to capture yourself with. Mirror shots don’t count. The iPhone 5S has a 1.2-megapixel front-facing camera which - let’s be honest - was put there for nothing more than selfies.
If you’re going to be snapping close-up shots of your face, you’ll want a selection of filters to make you look as good as you can - Instagram is perfect for just that. Your best bets are ‘Mayfair’ or ‘Rise’. which make anyone, or anything, look better.
This is where things get complicated. You need to find a pose which you can make your own; Bieber was the ‘from below, raised eyebrows’ look, whilst Rihanna goes for the ‘front-on pout’. Whatever you do, make it your own.
Right. You’ve captured your selfie, uploaded it to Instagram with a great filter and you’re feeling pretty good, right? Wrong. You need vanity ‘likes’. You’ll need to throw at least 20 totally random #hashtags into the comments to get likes.
The alternative: The LG G2 and its 2.1-megapixel front facing camera.
The alternative: Twitter. but for the sake all 21 of your followers, don’t.
The alternative: Taking a totally average, nice and acceptable photo?
The alternative: Social suicide; an Instagram photo with no likes.
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fashion
Charlie Morris and Hugo Taylor
‘Its one of things that when it has you by the balls, it wont let go’ Hugo Taylor on how ‘sketches on bar napkins’ turned into sunglasses brand Taylor Morris ugo Taylor has conquered Chelsea, he has conquered the jungle and now he’s taking on the sunglasses industry. Hugo and his good friend Charlie Morris launched their sunglasses brand Taylor Morris earlier this year, and were instantly met with a great reception, with celebrity fans including Cara Delevingne and Rita Ora eager to support the brand. “Taylor Morris is one of those fantastic projects which developed through both necessity and passion” explained Hugo, “Necessity because Charlie and I worked together
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re-launching Chinawhite club and due to the nature of the job we were working stupid hours and continually having to be up and back in the office early the next day. “Charlie and I have a passion bordering on obsessive madness when it comes to eyewear. Its one of things that when it has you by the balls, it wont let go. We’d both come in wearing sunglasses and it became a kind of enjoyable thing to see what we would both be wearing each day. This went on for about a year and Charlie and I begun to get a bit disgruntled and dissatisfied with the lack of creativity our
job was offering. “It took a few drunken nights out and some sketches on bar napkins before Taylor Morris came out of it. But once we decided firmly on the name we just knew we were onto something. It sounded right.” Taylor Morris recently launched their first collection, consisting of eleven different designs, each of which was subject to scrutiny down to the most meticulous details, to make sure they each pair was perfect, says Hugo. “We have agonised over every details from the logo design, the shape, the acetate and the lenses for hours.
“The only way to give Taylor Morris the specific identity it has would be to pour our heart and soul into their design.” After the huge success of their debut collection, Hugo says that they’re already looking forward to the future. “We have very grand aspirations for Taylor Morris. We don’t want to be a niche product, we want to be a globally recognised brand that represents Britain. “We’re already working on our second collection; we have finalised 2 more designs with 3rd nearing completion.” More at Tayor-Morris.com
www.Taylor-Morris.com Available in Harvey Nichols
More from Nunney at www.magnate.co/Nunney and @BenNunney on Twitter
The Final Word from Ben Nunney
‘Dedicated Ignorance of Fashion’ know it goes against the ethos of this issue, but I have something to confess. I hate fashion. Before you put down the magazine in disgust, burn the back page, or tweet at me angrily, let me explain... I don’t, technically, hate ‘fashion’. To me, there’s a difference between “I like to look good, feel good in what I wear, take pride in my appearance” and “I only ever wear clothes by John Smith, my shoes must be a specific shade of purple, and my aftershave is made from the tears of Tibetan orphans”. If you’re the former someone who likes to take pride in themselves - carry on. You’re OK in my books, and the world is a better place for having you in it, even if you all look a bit like Harry Styles. If you’re the latter - go home. I mean seriously - what drives you to get up in the morning and put on clothes that often cost in excess of five times those that many other people wear? Is it a desire to be noticed? To feel special? A status symbol perhaps?
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The clothes you wear don’t make you a better person. Consider the hipster. Generally native to East London, these creatures of habit spend their days growing small quantities of stubble and drinking overpriced coffee. Their favourite type of eye-wear is ‘thick-rimmed’ and their music of choice is basically whatever is the least popular. To a hipster, ‘fashion’ is anything from a jacket made out of old potato sacks to something picked up in a charity shop. It’s about the look - not the label - and
mind would wear, the retro logos that people strangely think are cool, the trilby hats that - for no good reason decided to leave the 1940s and pay 21st century Britain a visit. We live in a world full of people who either don’t care what other people think, or think it’s cool to buck the ‘suit up’ trend. Where people can basically dress how they like and get away with it. Now, if you’ve made it this far and I’ve not yet insulted you, you’re probably a bit like me. You don’t look like Harry Styles, you don’t pay
Shoreditch native’ dress-code
for that I grudgingly respect them. Take a look around at some of the t-shirts people wear. The ‘geek’ t-shirts that no real geek in their right
for designer underwear and lead a busy life. We are the ones that fashionistas would label ‘unfashionable’, and make up around 85% of the
general population. But that’s simply not true. If this issue of Magnate shows anything it’s that us - the busy, work-for-our-money, generally-not-a-completedick generation - are proving that you can look good on a sensible budget and not have to sell your soul/personality/first-born to be stylish. Maybe - just maybe different people look good in different things. Maybe fashion is subjective. Perhaps the pursuit of looking not-a-hair-out-ofplace stunning is a complete fallacy. Whatever the case, I look in the mirror in the morning and like what I see. Ego? Probably. Fashionable? Possibly. Happy? Hell yes. Just don’t get me started on those ridiculous designers who dress women up in big bags and proclaim it the next big thing. God forbid I start ranting...
Fancy a bit more? You can catch the most up-to-date Nunney columns online at Magnate.co, where Ben writes about everything from fashion to finance.
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