Bespoke 2024 - Issue 1 by Hothouse Media

BESPOKE 1

WINTER 2024

Timeless elegance IN SIDE THE S P E C I A LI S T TRIMMERS

S AV I LE ROW TA I LO R S O N W H AT ’ S N E W

F LY I N G W I T H T H E UK ’ S R E A L - LI F E Q

BEST 2025 P RO D U C T S & WATC H E S

updated.pdf

CMY

23/10/2024

17:45

updated.pdf

CMY

23/10/2024

17:45

THE ULTIMATE BESPOKE COMMISSION

MODEL SHOWN IS IN A PRE-PRODUCTION STATE

BENTLEY BATUR CONVERTIBLE COACHBUILT BY MULLINER

To commission your bespoke Bentley, contact mullinercoachbuilt@bentley.co.uk Scan the QR Code to discover Mulliner on the Bentley Motors Website The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ wings design are registered trademarks of Bentley Motors Limited © 2024 Bentley Motors Limited.

LT_MON_BML_Bespoke Ad_218.5x275.5mm.indd 3

21.10.24 13:41

Welcome WHAT IS BESPOKE? WELL THE throwaway line would be that it’s a celebration of luxury – but that means very different things to different people. So what the first edition of this new annual publication is really about is a celebration of the ability to create something to exactly your tastes – from suits and accessories to, of course, collector cars. The satisfaction in being able to specify bespoke items at any price point is surely the ultimate luxury. And if you can’t go the whole hog and create entirely bespoke items, then a little bit of ‘customisation’ or discovering brands away from the norm is still immensely enjoyable. In this issue we have called upon our association with London’s most famous tailoring street, through our annual Concours on Savile Row, to look at trends in clothing and the ins and outs of ordering a tailored suit. However, we’re also showcasing the best in the worlds of whisky, pens, motorcycles, watches and much more. Next year, we will go even further. Having delved deep into the world of bespoke goods over the past few weeks, we are brimming with ideas for the 2025 issue. Until then, we hope you enjoy reading this special new Bespoke publication.

Published by Hothouse Media Geoff Love, David Lillywhite, George Pilkington Editorial Managing editor Sarah Bradley Creative director Peter Allen Design Mal Bailey Writers Nathan Chadwick, Kip Springer Advertising Sophie Kochan sophie.kochan2010@gmail.com Sue Farrow sue@flyingspace.co.uk Rob Schulp rob@flyingspace.co.uk Production Elaine Briggs elaine@hothousemedia.co.uk Accounts Jonathan Ellis accounts@hothousemedia.co.uk Printing Buxton Press © Hothouse Media. Bespoke and associated logos are registered trademarks of Hothouse Media. All rights reserved. All material in this magazine, whether in whole or in part, may not be reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any form without the written permission of Hothouse Media. Hothouse Media uses a layered privacy notice giving you brief details about how we would like to use your personal information. For full details, please visit www.magnetomagazine.com/privacy. Bespoke is published annually by Hothouse Publishing Ltd. Registered office: Castle Cottage, 25 High Street, Titchmarsh, Northants NN14 3DF, UK. Great care has been taken throughout the magazine to be accurate, but the publisher cannot accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions that might occur. The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances, and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

David Lillywhite Editorial director

Supplied free of charge with Magneto issue 24 Winter 2024. Not for resale.

Bespoke

HENRY POOLE FP BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1

28/10/2024 14:50

BESPOKE 1

10 14 20 26 30 36 38 42 48 50 54 56 58 64

TORABHAIG WHISKY A wee dram from the Isle of Skye’s newest distillery

OBJETS D’ART Beautiful enhancements for your life, home and car

SAVILE ROW Where hand-crafted tailoring is always in style

BENTLEY MULLINER Marque’s bespoke business can fulfil a desire to be different

WATCHES Stylish luxury pieces that will stand the test of time

JAGUAR CLASSIC E-TYPES Exquisitely detailed one-offs are the jewel in the crown

ASHLEY WATSON Exclusive motorcycling gear that’s a cut above the rest

LIFE AFTER WATCHES What’s next for Bremont founders Nick and Giles English?

HARTNACK & COMPANY Custom-made storage for your car’s precious paperwork

O’ROURKE COACHTRIMMERS The important role specialist trimmers play in car restoration

GIEVES & HAWKES Why a bespoke suit can be the perfect gift to yourself

EVICE Improving on the best, with an electric Rolls-Royce Corniche

GILO INDUSTRIES Adrenaline-pumping devices devised by the real-life Q

LANGEN MOTORCYCLES Relive your youth with a hand-crafted modern-day two-stroke

Bespoke

Reach for the Skye After 190 years with only one distillery on the Isle of Skye, a second one opened – and its whisky, Torabhaig, has now become highly collectable Words Kip Springer Photography Torabhaig

LOVERS OF A FINE SINGLE MALT WILL BE familiar with Talisker, the whisky that’s been produced in the village of Carbost on the Isle of Skye since the distillery was founded in the 1830s by Hugh and Kenneth MacAskill, ruthlessly ambitious brothers whose main interest in life was turning a profit. But by 1848 Talisker had gone bust, and it subsequently passed through numerous owners until being acquired by the Distillers Company in 1928 – which became Diageo, the firm that has owned it ever since. Famed around the globe, Talisker is considered the single-malt whisky of Skye – but, as of the past few years, it’s no longer the only one that matters. Because now there’s Torabhaig. Pronounced ‘torra-vague’, it has been operating

Torabhaig

since 2017, when it became only the second licenced distillery to be built on Skye in 190 years (although there were plenty of ‘unlicenced’ stills hidden among the island’s cottages and farmhouses right up until the middle of the last century...). Every single malt needs a story, and while Torabhaig can’t claim to match the history of Talisker or Ireland’s legendary Bushmills (licenced in 1608 and still going strong), it still has a tale to tell. The building, which is situated near the village of Teangue in the south of Skye, began life during the 1820s as a farmstead built from the ruins of nearby Castle Camus, a stronghold of the Clan Macleod before it was captured by the rival MacDonalds in the 15th century. During the 1970s, Gaelic language champion Sir Iain Noble bought 20,000 acres of the Sleat peninsula on which the farm stood, after selling his Edinburgh merchant bank during the previous decade. Although he initially worked the farm, Noble soon became enamoured by the idea of making whisky. He set up a company to produce a vatted (or ‘blended’) version called Poit Dhubh, which means the ‘black pot’: ‘illicit still’. His real ambition, however, was to convert the farmhouse into a distillery making single malt – but he died in 2010 with the dream unrealised. Noble’s widow subsequently struck a deal with the young, Dutch-owned producer and distributor Mossburn Distillers to sell the farm, so that it could be used for just the purpose her late husband had intended – and, in 2013, work began on a painstaking restoration and conversion of the farmhouse and its outbuildings. But a problem soon arose due to the farm’s listed status: its roofline could never be altered, meaning it would be impossible to ever remove the giant copper still or its eight 8000-litre Douglas fir washbacks where the vital fermentation process takes place. A solution was found in the creation of a roof that is fully demountable in the event that the components need to be replaced – a major feat of engineering that has been impressively executed. After four years of work, the Torabhaig distillery was up and running by 2017, fed by the two burns that run past the premises and into the Sound of Sleat, and which add the unmistakable peaty taste that’s typical of whisky distilled on the island. Having spent more than four years in oak barrels that previously contained bourbon, the whisky distilled in 2017 was first released in 2021 under the Legacy 1 label, with Legacy 2 – Allt Gleann (named after one of the aforementioned burns) becoming available last year. The

‘Two burns that run past the distillery add the peaty taste that’s typical of whisky distilled on Skye’

ABOVE The Torabhaig whiskies have variously been aged in bourbon and sherry casks.

Bespoke

most recent release, Legacy 3 – Cnoc Na Moine (‘hill of peat’), was unveiled this year, and was the first Torabhaig whisky to have been aged in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks. It quickly sold out, but bottles of Allt Gleann remain, including a punchier ‘batch strength’ version (61.1 percent ABV compared with 46 percent for the regular bottling). Worth waiting for, too, are the first Journeyman’s Drams. Every year, regular production at the distillery is stopped for a month to enable the apprentice distillers to create their very own expressions in quantities of around 80 casks. Nine Journeyman’s Drams have so far been produced, with the first due for bottling next year. We’re looking forward to a snifter already... If you’re in the UK with a classic car and plenty of time to spare, there are few better road trips than to the spectacular Isle of Skye. Once you’re there, a tour of Torabhaig is a must. Just £16 gets you a 45-minute trip around the distillery, complete with a tutored tasting or, for a little more, there’s a two-hour tour that also takes in the warehouse with its breathtaking views of the Sound of Sleat. It’s even possible to wander up to the remains of Castle Camus with a wee dram in hand. Look out to sea, and picture the Macleods and the MacDonalds battling it out for ownership 600 years ago... You can find out more at www.torabhaig.com.

Bentley spirit in every stitch. Scan the QR code or visit shop.BentleyMotors.com to explore the Bentley Collection. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2023 Bentley Motors Limited

Objets

Words Nathan Chadwick

d’art

Beautiful enhancements for your life, home and personal style 14

Bespoke

1. GIEVES & HAWKES OXLEY COAT Crafted from rich burgundy Italian fabric, this singlebreasted coat has a single back vent, welt pockets and a unique map-print pocket. It’s available in sizes 38R, 40R, 42R and 44R, and costs £1595. gievesandhawkes.com

2. CHARABANC TRAVEL ATOMISER Charabanc’s travel atomiser comes in five fragrances inspired by great drives: Across Pennine Fells, Along the Plain of Castelluccio, Golden Road to Samarqand, Journey to Tai Mo Shan and Monument Valley Drive. Each £60, 100ml atomiser is crafted from aluminium. charabanc.com

3. ANDERSEN A3 BY CALLUM This collaboration between design house CALLUM and Andersen EV adds style to your charging needs. Compatible with all Type 2 electric and hybrid cars, the wallbox has single-phase charging power of 7kW and a tethered cable measuring 5.5m. It costs £1395. andersen-ev.com

4. BENTLEY MULLINER-INSPIRED 6-IN-1 TRIKE Inspired by Bentley’s specialist Mulliner department, this luxurious trike is designed for ten-month-olds and up. It has special seat quilting, Mulliner-style wheels, a push-handle bag and White Sand paint. It costs £595. shop.bentleymotors.com

4 Products

6 5 5. DE BEERS FANCY ORANGE PEAR-SHAPED DIAMOND DROP IN ROSE-GOLD Set in 18k rose-gold, this diamond drop has orange and deep brown hues associated with a poached pear. It’s been designed with a small clip that can be gently pulled away from the fastening so it can be added to the Snow Dance necklace (available separately at a cost of £42,300). The diamond drop costs £116,000. debeers.co.uk

6. FORTNUM & MASON AFTERNOON TEA HAMPER Indulge in the quintessential English afternoon tea without having to worry about a hangover, with this feature-packed hamper of indulgent goodness. This alcohol-free selection includes biscuits, sparkling tea to be served cold, a variety of teas to be served hot, cake, preserves and teapot plus teacups. It costs £500. fortnumandmason.com

7. DR HARRIS PICK-ME-UP REVIVAL SET

Crafted by the Royal Warrant Holder for the King and Queen, this kit is designed to perk you up during the winter. It includes a 100ml bottle of The Original PickMe-Up, Lemon & Vetiver face wash, Ginger & Lemon body wash, moisture cream and Crystal Eye gel, for £110. drharris.co.uk

Bespoke

8 8. HENRY POOLE & CO THE GENTLEMEN SILK AND WOOL SCARF Made in collaboration with Netflix for the series The Gentlemen, this double-faced scarf is made from 70 percent silk and 30 percent Lana Wool, and measures 31cm by 143cm. It costs £300. henrypoole.com

9. MR MILLER Mr Miller’s luxury approach to headwear spans several ranges, with three designs within the bakerboy style alone. Pictured is the Albert’s Savannah Artisan Cap, with a headband detail around the back. Crafted from 100 percent cashmere in Great Britain, it costs £175. mistermiller.co.uk

10. ARANYANI URMI Aranyani’s Freedom collection celebrates love and unity. The Urmi – meaning wave – bag features hand-pleated Italian calf nappa and lamb leather, with a 24ct goldplated accessory finish. Five colours are available. POA. aranyani.com

9 ‘Aranyani’s Urmi bag features hand-pleated Italian calf nappa and lamb leather’ Products

11 11. CAD & THE DANDY DOUBLE-BREASTED PEAK LAPEL COAT IN FOREST GREEN Hand-crafted from rich green wool with a marled appearance, this double-breasted coat features patch pockets with flaps, peak lapels and a single vent. The textured Hopsack weave offers great warmth and durability, with a soft feel and comfortable drape. It’s available in chest sizes 38in to 48in, and costs £1400. cadandthedandy.co.uk

12. MAISON SAMADI ULTIMATE FEAST PYRAMID This six-drawer selection of gourmet treats includes chocolate truffles, thins, coated orange and lemon peels plus glazed chocolates. The hand-made items are alcohol-free and suitable for vegetarians. It costs £235. maisonsamadi.com

13. RUARK R410 INTEGRATED MUSIC SYSTEM Hand-crafted in Great Britain to match beautiful organic design with high-quality audio, the R140 features compatibility with all the major streaming services, internet and DAB radio, as well as highresolution file support up to 32-bit/384kHz. It boasts an integrated 120W amplifier, USB, HDMI, stereo RCA, RIAA phono and optical inputs, plus an optional CD player input. It’s available in two different wood finishes, and costs £1299. ruarkaudio.com

12 13 18

Bespoke

WORKS BESPOKE

CRAFTED TO YOUR SPECIFICATION In our state-of-the-art workshop, vehicles from our illustrious history are remastered by hand to create something truly unique. Let our team of Classic experts bring your vision to life. Visit landrover.com/classic/defenderV8 or call +44 (024) 7656 6600

@landrover.classic

A taste of Savile Row Words Nathan Chadwick Photography Matt Howell

Where hand-crafted bespoke tailoring is always in style

Savile Row

S WE MOVE PAST THE FIRST QUARTER OF THE new century, Savile Row’s craftsmanship and quality passed down over the generations have carved out a new role. For many decades it was the go-to place for work attire, but now fresh approaches are breathing new life into the famous street in Mayfair, London. “Bespoke tailoring is thriving still, and the signs are very positive going forward. We’re ahead of schedules compared with last year,” says William Skinner of Dege & Skinner. “There is very much a global demand for having hand-made products.” However, it could have been so very different – the Covid years hit the street hard. But business is on the up according to Nicolas Guilbard of cloth supplier Holland & Sherry. “We’ve bounced back quite well,” he says. “We have some very good clients who are all very enthusiastic, very committed, working hard.” The Covid era has also forced a change in the way the suit is perceived, and the reasons for purchasing one. “A lot of our clients who were working in the City are now working from home,” says Trevor Burnham of Scabal. “They are looking for more casual attire, so we’re offering something that they could dress down and wear casually, maybe with chinos or jeans.” It’s a view shared by Hannah Bond of Norton & Sons. “Trends-wise, we don’t do business suits very often,” she says. “We are finding that people are buying suits for more casual purposes, particularly for weddings. We’ve moved to casual jacketing because that’s what people want. People like to mix and match, and to style it out rather than have just a plain suit.” Simon Cundey of Henry Poole & Co has also seen the City world become far more casual. “It’s changed from having two suits to one sports jacket and a suit,” he says. “People want to go to work wearing a sports jacket, perhaps on a Friday or a more casual day.” Beyond the immediate work environment, Nicolas Guilbard also believes people are making an effort to

‘There is very much a global demand for having hand-made products’ dress up all round. “You only have one opportunity to make a good first impression,” he says. “That will always be important; people are aware you can’t just show up to places as though you’re going to mow the lawn.” Inter-relationship dynamics are also playing a part, says Simon Cundey: “The ladies have been dressing up, they want to get back to socialising – having a husband in a pair of chinos and shirt is not enough. While they put on their beautiful dresses, they got their husbands to come back to Savile Row and have suits made.” There’s also been a move to add versatility to a suit, according to Cad & The Dandy’s James Sleater. “People want to buy sensibly and well – they want a suit that will fit them in the workplace, but also allows them to wear the jacket by itself for an outing to the pub,” he says. “If you buy cleverly, you can walk away with three outfits.” Trevor Burnham says his clients favour neutral colours:

Bespoke

THIS SPREAD High-end garments have been carefully crafted in this area of London’s Mayfair district for centuries.

navy blues, grey, beige or brown: “These palettes let you interchange with different items in your wardrobe.” Simon Cundey also saw a new type of customer enter the fray during the pandemic. “A number of younger executives were really looking into where shoes, shirts and suits were made for the best quality,” he says. “They realised a bespoke item will last and last for a long time.” This level of sustainability is a key driver of what makes bespoke clothing so special, according to Hannah Bond. “People want less, but they want better quality,” she affirms. “Fashion is truly circular, and everyone has had their fun now buying lots of ‘stuff’. People want a really nice, well made suit they know is going to last, not some high-street crap that will tear at the first opportunity.” Although Savile Row is not about fashion in the traditional sense, some trends have shifted. “People are opting for a more textured look now – a lot more checks,” Hannah says. “There is also more textured cloth, particularly through the transitional seasons. I am seeing more forest greens and earthy tones as well.” Green is hot at Cad & The Dandy, too. “Fifteen years ago we barely made a green suit; now it’s the second most popular colour,” James Sleater explains. “A lot of people just think, well, it’s not corporate, but it’s now not that left field that you can’t wear it to work, either.” He has also seen people opting for more interesting colours and textures. “They want mid-weight cloths

Savile Row

‘Tailoring is an artisanal craft trade, because so much work goes into it’ that will stand use all year,” he says. “Rather than buying seasonally – say a summer-weight and a winter-weight suit – people just find cloths that work all year round.” The quest for brighter colours has been observed by Nicolas Guilbard, too. “You have to be a bit adventurous,” he says. “People are creatures of habit, with blues and greys. But I find that if you make an effort, it’s noticed.” It’s a mantra he personally lives by. “I’ve got a lovely green blazer that I would have never purchased had my tailor not really badgered me,” he laughs. “Every time I wear it, I get compliments. I always tell people to get out of their comfort zone. Everyone has a blue or grey suit, or have had several – try something different.” Simon Cundey has also seen a change in the type of materials in demand: “In 2023 it was all linens because the weather was super hot. In 2024 it’s been colder, so there’s a lot more tweed. The dynamics within the fabric have changed with regards to blending, too. Linen, silk and wool has become more common, often made into darker colours. So that’s a new type of fabric which is really now a standard in the summertime.” He believes this has replaced hard, pure linens purely for usability reasons. “People don’t want the wrinkles, but they do want a linen look – something easier to live with and maintain,” he says. “We can make a lot lighter weights as well. Linen was typically around eight-ten ounces – now we can go to six, seven with a nice blend.” For William Skinner, the appeal of a bespoke suit will always create demand. “Tailoring is an artisanal craft trade, because so much work goes into it,” he says. “The work that goes into the creation of the structure of the chest, to give it shape, form and longevity – as seen in the various fitting stages – that still continues.” Concours on Savile Row brings together the best of collector cars and tailoring. More at www.concoursonsavilerow.com.

THIS PAGE Tailors’ luxury premises on Savile Row combine customer areas and workshops to provide a very special experience.

Bespoke

MISTER MILLER MASTER HATTER Luxurious British artisan hats for him & her

Mistermillerhats.com MISTER MILLER FP B&W COLOUR BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1

28/10/2024 16:43

Everybody has the desire to be different – but with Bentley’s Mulliner department that is its very essence, from individual trim all the way up to a full-scale one-off car. We speak to the boss, Ansar Ali, about the Mulliner method

Words Nathan Chadwick

“NO MANUFACTURER MAKES A BAD CAR THESE days, so in the luxury segment it’s all about two points of differentiation,” says Ansar Ali, director of Bentley Mulliner and Motorsport. “Firstly, it’s how you engage with customers, and then it’s the craftsmanship used in the product – and Bentley is just world class.” We’re speaking to Ansar as Mulliner continues to make great strides in its two distinct areas of operation – business has almost doubled over the past three years. The biggest element is supporting the core Bentley range with personalisation options over the GT, GTC, Flying Spur and Bentayga. “Bentley is all about personalisation, and customers can individualise their car to their heart’s content, with around 39,000,000,000 combinations,” Ansar says. “We also offer what we call bespoke personalisation beyond that – and that’s growing significantly.” This area of the business is dedicated to bespoke cars that go beyond trim finishes, paint choices and wheel options. These are truly individual vehicles – with models such as the Bacalar, Batur and Batur Convertible being prime examples of the level of exclusivity available. However, an invite to Bentley’s home at Pyms Lane for a one-to-one session isn’t exclusively for the bespoke projects. “A person doesn’t need to be a ‘big’ buyer to come to Mulliner’s specification room; they could be specifying their first GT or a Batur Convertible. For everyone, we deliver personalisation in a bespoke, one-to-one way,” Ansar says. “A Bentley is a means of transport, but the more people get involved with the brand, the more they want

39 billion

reasons why Bentley Mulliner

to understand the marque and the way we use materials,” he continues. “The level of craftsmanship is mindblowing – such as the manual stitching, rather than automated machines. When customers see and hear that, it gives them a completely different perspective. They’re buying something that they feel is personal to them, that has a human interface –and the more we engage with customers, the more they are advocates.” The process begins with a local dealer or retailer facilitating a request for something special, which would develop into a direct consultation with Mulliner. “Typically a lot of the enquiries regard having a different contrast stitch, materials or wheels – then the degree of complexity turns into a mini project,” Ansar says. “It’s not merely a quotation – it’s a cost and timeframe, because we have to engineer, look at the supply chain and clarify whether they reach automotive standards.” He is seeing increasing levels of complexity as customers are seeking out more individualisation – but can people go too far? “As long as I’ve been here, we’ve never said no to anything,” he smiles. “However, people are sensitive to the brand and self-policing. Have we done a polka-dot Bentley? Not to my knowledge, but that doesn’t mean there’s nobody out there who wants one – although nobody’s come to ask.” Nevertheless, Mulliner’s experts are there to act as a guide, and to offer suggestions. “When we are doing a bespoke commission, typically we have a designer and a customer-relationship manager to talk them through it all – often, people know they want to personalise their car, but they are also looking for guidance,” Ansar says. “The more we get to know our customers, the language they use, the better the result – it’s understanding a lot more about what the person wants; for example, we have 10,000 different types of blue, so 90 percent of the time, they do want to be guided.” The second part of Mulliner’s remit is fully bespoke cars such as the Bacalar, Batur and Batur Convertible: “The Bacalar was to signal design language for future Bentleys – and it was also a means of showing that the brand is very relevant and progressive. Who’d have thought our first coachbuilt car would be a barchetta?” The appetite for the Bacalar prompted the development of the now sold-out Batur, which was an internal

THIS PAGE The Batur Convertible illustrates Mulliner’s coachbuilding capabilities.

Bespoke

decision. “At the time, the Batur Convertible wasn’t on the radar – you might think it was an obvious thing to do, but we weren’t sure whether the market wanted it. Then we started to get requests…” Ansar says. Mulliner is also able to take on coachbuilding for individual requests: “One customer wanted an extendedwheelbase Bentayga for his large family. In such cases the challenges are, how do we get the economies of scale? For a single enquiry the quote would be eyewatering, but the way to soften the blow is to suggest the customer take one, and we sell a further nine.” Such conversations are necessary due to the level of engineering and testing required. “We don’t just cut, shut and weld – that’s not us,” Ansar affirms. “We have our own guidelines around the degree of engineering integrity and testing we need, because we’re part of the VW Group, and that comes with a bill. But with that comes certainty in what you are buying.” With the Batur Convertible in its development phase, what are Mulliner’s long-term plans? “We currently have a concept on the drawing board that will be consistent with Bentley’s values: performance and luxury. We’re looking at how Mulliner can deliver a coachbuilt programme with those two extremes in one; we’re conceptualising it at the moment,” Ansar says. For the immediate future, he’s keen to continue Mulliner’s growth trajectory in terms of personalisation. “That really excites me as much as doing a coachbuilt car – it delivers so much personal customer satisfaction,” he explains, although coachbuilding in an EV world is something that’s being actively investigated. “The technology that will present itself in the near future will give us the opportunity to explore some really exciting things that add value to the EV proposition.” However the future of motive power rolls out, Mulliner is here to stay, Ansar says. He sees coachbuilding as an integral part of what Mulliner can do to support Bentley as a whole: “We have further ambitions for programmes, showcasing design, materials, making the brand be seen as progressive. We are the only authentic coachbuilding name in the automotive industry among our peers. Mulliner is an integral part of Bentley – we really showcase the best of what the marque is about.” More at www.bentleymotors.com/en/models/mulliner.html.

CAP CAMARAT

Demand the very finest with Cap Camarat Square Skeleton. A one-of-a-kind model in which the art of watchmaking is showcased in an edgy, sporty design. Available at exclusive retailers around the country

Tick

This limited edition of 800 features Montblanc’s signature exploding star pattern, with rhodiumcoated sword-shaped hands. Powered by the MB 24.17 automatic movement, the 43mm timepiece has been inspired by the Minerva pocket watches of the late 19th and 20th century, with their round, polished, pebble-shaped cases and onion-shaped crowns. It costs £3175. montblanc.com

Bespoke

Time may pass by, but a stylish, high-quality,

MONTBLANC STAR LEGACY AUTOMATIC DATE

luxury timepiece will never lose its allure

Tock Words Nathan Chadwick

LUMINOX PACIFIC DIVER AUTOMATIC The Pacific Diver models have recently been updated with an automatic Sellita SW220-1 movement, a first for the brand. The XS.3104 model pictured here has a 42mm stainless steel case with a textured blue dial. It has a power reserve of 38 hours, plus Super-LumiNova light emissions on the hour indexes. It costs £1340. uk.luminox.com

PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR REFERENCE 5396G This fresh take on the famous Annual Calendar features a sunburst blue dial with a black gradient rim, with 12 baguette diamond hour-markers (0.26ct). It uses the 26‑330 S QA LU 24H calibre self-winding mechanical movement, and the white gold case measures 38.5mm. It has a double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, a date aperture at 6 o’clock and a 24-hour subdial with integrated moonphase display. It costs £54,400. watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

Tick

DOXA SUB 300T CLIVE CUSSLER This special edition is engraved with the names of shipwrecks and other artefacts discovered or explored by the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), and is equipped with DOXA’s automatic movement. The 42.5mm case is crafted from aged stainless steel, and bears a serial number out of 93 total units. The watch is water resistant to 300 metres and has a 38-hour power reserve. It costs £3050. uk.doxawatches.com

Bespoke

Tock

ROLEX PERPETUAL 1908 Inspired by one of the first Rolex models to be fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the 1908 joins the Perpetual range dedicated to traditional watchmaking styles. The 1908 is an homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised and registered the Rolex name. Crafted in 950 platinum, the 39mm case covers the calibre 7140. The dial is engine turned, while the movement features bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out oscillating weight. POA. watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

HERBELIN CAP CAMARAT SQUARE AUTOMATIC This extrovert skeleton watch features edgy cutouts and triangular motifs for a fresh take on the Cap Camarat line. The 39mm stainless steel case is water resistant to 100 metres, while the caseback reveals the Swiss SW200-1 automatic movement. Limited to 500 numbered units, it is priced at €1916.67. herbelin.com

STERNGLAS LUMATIK LIGHT BLUE Sternglas has built a reputation for its Bauhaus-inspired designs, and this is one of its latest Lumatik designs. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the stainless steel case covers a Miyota 8315 automatic movement, with Luminova white and orange elements on the dial. The strap is a mixture of nylon and leather. It costs £449. uk.sternglas.com

Watches

Tick

LILIENTHAL BERLIN ZEITGEIST AUTOMATIK LE METEORITE

Limited to 999 pieces, this 42mm-diameter watch features elements from an actual meteorite, rendering each watch unique thanks to so-called Widmanstätten structures – geometric patterns that differ in each part of the material. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and the case is crafted from subtly polished titanium in dark silver, There is Super-LumiNova in the dial and four main indicators. It costs £1105. lilienthal.berlin/uk

CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE XL CHRONO The latest in a line of Alpine Eagle models that blend the flyback chronograph with a grade 5 titanium case for sporty lightness, this model features a Rhône Blue theme inspired by the Alps themselves. The 44mm-diameter case wraps a Chopard 03.05-C chronometer movement. It costs £22,500. chopard.com

10 34

Bespoke

RICHARD MILLE 88 TOURBILLON SMILEY Richard Mille’s playful designs are taken a step further with this limited-to-50 tribute to Franklin Loufrani’s Smiley, which brings a fresh take to the RM88 automatic tourbillon. The bridges and baseplate are PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, while the Smiley is created from micro-blasted and painted yellow gold. Each further element of the colourful scene has received similar treatment. The bezel and caseback are ATZ red ceramic, while the caseband is 18ct 5N red gold. POA. richardmille.com

MONDAINE NEO This 41mm chronograph flips the panda-dial script, with a black dial and white sub-dials to provide a new twist on the Swiss Railways aesthetic. The stainless steel case surrounds a Ronda 5030 quartz movement, while the hands are treated with Super-LumiNova. The strap is constructed from black vegan grape leather. It costs £439. uk.mondaine.com

Tock

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE ENAMEL MONET ‘THE GRAND CANAL’ Inspired by a Claude Monet painting of Venice from 1908, the Grand Canal is designed to evoke the colours of that famed stretch of water on a hot afternoon. The front of the watch features a guilloché dial with a wave motif enamelled in Grand Feu, while the reverse shows a reproduction of Monet’s masterpiece in miniature. POA. jaeger-lecoultre.com

Watches

Commemorative jewels These two special-commission E-types by Jaguar Classic include unique features from renowned jeweller Deakin & Francis Words David Lillywhite Photography Jaguar Classic

JAGUAR CLASSIC’S OWN WORKS BESPOKE department has created two special Series I E-type Commemorative models specifically for a loyal, discerning client in Southeast Asia, to celebrate 50 years since the last E-type rolled off the production line. Each references key moments in E-type history, from the blueprint of the model’s inception to the last Series IIIs. Bespoke elements adorn the interiors, with an anodised aluminium centre console bearing a unique engraving of an early Series I E-type blueprint sourced from the archives. This was previously displayed with the E-type at the New York Museum of Modern Art. Both cockpits feature Bridge of Weir black and tan leather trim complemented by a unique woven finish. Most strikingly, though, both cars are adorned with mother of pearl, hallmarked solid silver and 18ct gold details created by Deakin & Francis – England’s oldest manufacturing jeweller, founded in 1786. Its renowned silversmiths live and breathe their time-honoured craft, working in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter. At the front, the motif bar badge is finished in silver with guilloché mother of pearl and an 18ct gold Growler icon, while the rear badges are enamelled sterling silver. Inside, the horn push and gearknob feature mother of pearl and an 18ct gold Growler detail. The detailing extends to the instrument-panel switches, which are finished in knurled silver with a hallmarked silver bezel, and even the key cover, which again is finished in silver with matching mother of pearl and 18ct gold. The cars were inspired by the final 50 Commemorative Editions from 1974; one is finished in Signet Green, the other in Opal Black – both updates of original colour schemes from that year. However, they feature subtle upgrades for the 21st century, including to the famous 3.8-litre powerplant, which now boasts electronic fuel injection, along with a Jaguar Classic five-speed manual ’box, discreet Bluetooth radio and heated windscreen. They will be the only two examples ever to leave the Jaguar Classic workshop. To enquire about your own bespoke Jaguar or Land Rover model, please contact sales@classicjaguarlandrover.com or visit www.jaguar.com/classic.

THIS PAGE One-off E-types boast exquisite detailing from England’s oldest jewellery maker, Deakin & Francis.

Bespoke

DOXA_SUB300_CARBON_822-70-131-26-N_218x275mm_Coop_Retailers-list.indd 1

07.10.2024 14:18

Designer Ashley Watson creates bespoke motorcycling gear that doesn’t look like, well, your typical motorcycling gear

Fast 38

Bespoke

fashion Words Kip Springer Photography Ashley Watson

Ashley Watson

W THIS SPREAD Stylish and practical; highend bike gear has certainly been put through its paces.

HEN I WAS A MOTOR SPORT-MAD TEENAGER during the 1970s, automotive fashion was spiralling towards its nadir. Having evolved from the practical, beautifully tailored driving coats and thick hide gauntlets of the pioneer years, through to the crisp white overalls and spotted neckerchiefs worn by gentleman racers in the 1930s and ’40s, and on to the graphically striped and smartly cut cotton, leather or suede jackets of the ensuing couple of decades, motoring style was suddenly preparing to crash and burn. By the turn of the 1980s, the catalogue of purposemade driving garments had more or less polarised into a choice of nylon ‘rally jackets’ in tobacco-firm livery emblazoned with sponsorship logos, or fogeyish sheepskin ‘driving coats’ that were almost invariably worn with the ubiquitous cloth cap. As Isabel Ettedgui of luxury leather and motoring accessories store Connolly once put it: “Everything suddenly went a bit ‘Del Boy’.” The situation was equally dire for motorcyclists, with

‘Ashley Watson began developing his range of exclusively British-made accessories a decade ago’ a largely uninspiring choice of weather- and abrasionresistant garments being all that was once available to the modern rider. But not any more. Now that motorcycling has become a ‘lifestyle’ activity, plenty of brands old and new are catering to style-conscious ‘bikers’ – although not all of the kit on offer is actually much good for the purpose for which it is ostensibly intended. One label to which that certainly doesn’t apply, however, is the eponymous one set up by designer Ashley Watson, who began developing his range of exclusively British-made accessories for motorcyclists a decade ago. One of his early items was the Eversholt jacket, a piece that he put into production only after testing a prototype by wearing it on a 4000-mile ride around Europe, during which – inevitably – every type of weather was encountered. Now in its MkII incarnation, the latest Eversholt appears to be made from regular, heavy-duty waxed canvas, but is fully lined with an abrasion-resistant ballistic fabric called Dyneema

Ashley Watson

that’s said to be 15 times stronger than steel. The jacket is also fully waterproofed (including the zip) and features subtly integrated, fully removable body armour. Having used an Eversholt over the course of many hundreds of (often very wet) miles, I can certainly say it’s the warmest and most wind-resistant waxed-cotton jacket I have ever worn – especially when combined with Watson’s Killian undervest, a practical, protective gilet that’s intended to be donned with the Eversholt to create a ‘modular’ clothing system. For warmer weather, meanwhile, there’s the Hockliffe jacket, which is made from what is claimed to be the world’s first single-layer, abrasive-resistant fabric. With two huge patch pockets, extra-long sleeves that don’t ride up when stretching for the handlebars, and a wind-cheating zip-plus-buttons arrangement, it’s super practical – but, as with all of Watson’s creations, it doesn’t look out of place when off the bike. Beyond that, the Ashley Watson range extends to the Orkney baffle (a neck and face warmer made from Merino wool), a line of Thurcroft Shetland wool ‘beanies’ and the Otto shortsleeve, a workhorse T-shirt. Watson has kept the range deliberately small, both to ensure quality and to emphasise the fact that these are garments genuinely built for life. Additionally, each order is made up only after it has been placed, minimising waste and ensuring that each customer gets exactly what he or she is expecting. All of the above, by the way, work equally well when driving leaky, draughty classic cars. You could say it’s fast fashion – but not in the bad way. Eversholt jacket £685; Hockliffe jacket £365; Killian vest £285; Otto shortsleeve £55; Orkney baffle £85; Thurcroft hat £40. Also available are the Sheffield-made Blakeney brass penknife, titanium travel cup and Coloral doubleinsulated vacuum flask. See www.ashleywatson.co.uk to browse the range of clothing and accessories.

Life after atche What would Nick and Giles English, the founders of Bremont, do next we wondered? And now we know...

Words Kip Springer

GILES ENGLISH YARD-O-LED HAVING PUT BRITAIN BACK ON THE watchmaking map, Nick and Giles English are now hoping to do the same with luxury pens. Earlier this year, the brothers – who founded Bremont in 2002, grew production to 10,000 pieces annually, promoted the brand globally and recently handed it over to new management – acquired a two-thirds stake in Birmingham’s historic Yard-O-Led company, which makes fountain pens, ballpoints and propelling pencils exclusively with sterling silver or gold barrels. The propelling pencil was invented by Yard-O-Led, which can trace its roots back to 1822 and got its name from the fact that its pencils could hold a dozen threeinch leads totalling a yard in length. Prior to the advent of disposable ‘writing instruments’ – two billion of which are now thrown away each year – there were 122 pen companies in Birmingham alone and, towards the end of the 19th century, three-quarters of the nibs and pens sold in the entire world emanated from the city. Now,

Yard-O-Led is the only such business extant – but Giles English is convinced the only way is up. “I honestly believe the luxury pen is in the same place that the mechanical watch was 20 or 30 years ago,” he says. “There are plenty of collectors, and more people are turning back to pens as an antidote to keyboards and emails. A hand-written letter is just so much more meaningful – and a pen makes a superb present to mark everything from an 18th birthday to a christening, graduation or marriage. They are poignant objects.” ‘Poignant’ certainly describes Yard-O-Led’s latest creation, the Lucky pencil: “We were contacted by a gentleman whose step-brother, Lt Leslie March of the Cameron Highlanders, had been shot in the chest during World War Two,” explains Giles. “Amazingly, the bullet hit him in the pocket in which he was carrying a Yard-O-Led Deco 34 pencil. It took the full force of the bullet and saved his life.” The model went out of production in 1940, but the

Bespoke

RIGHT Giles (left), Nick (right) and YardO-Led co-owner Emma Field have big plans for the historic British brand.

‘The bullet hit him in the pocket in which he was carrying a Yard-O-Led pencil. It took the full force’

company is now recreating it in a choice of silver (£375) or ‘vermeil’ (gilded silver, £550) finishes in tribute to Lt March, whose story sadly didn’t have a happy ending; he continued to carry his buckled pencil after joining the Royal Marines’ new Commando regiment in 1943, but was killed in ’44 on D-Day plus one. His Yard-O-Led pencil was sent home among his possessions, and has now been gifted to the firm’s small museum, along with his military dog tags. A percentage of proceeds from sales will be donated to the Royal Marines Charity. Other models in the collection range from the £295 Diplomat to the gold Pinstripe 72, which at £2100 features a barrel hand-decorated with the same engineturning machine that the company has used for more than a century. “Yard-O-Led pens and pencils were once available from every high-street jeweller and every pen retailer in the country,” says Giles. “Our aim is to get them back into retailers around the world.” Peruse the full range at www.yard-o-led.com.

Life after watches

NICK ENGLISH MOKE INTERNATIONAL

CONCEIVED IN 1959 AS A POTENTIAL MILITARY vehicle with air-portable capability, the Mini Moke was swiftly labelled ‘not fit for purpose’ by the MoD, partly because of its minimal ground clearance and the feeble output of its 848cc engine. But, as any scholar of the ‘swinging ’60s’ knows, that didn’t put off BMC, which tweaked a few things before launching the vehicle publicly in 1964 as a fun car for groovy civilians. It went down well, being adopted by many of the era’s ‘A-listers’ ranging from Brigitte Bardot to The Beatles, and soon became a familiar sight at chic resorts throughout southern Europe and in the Caribbean. Mokes even found fame on television and the silver screen, serving as transport around Portmeirion in The Prisoner as well as in an assortment of roles in no fewer than four James Bond movies. The original Moke was built in the UK only until 1968, but production continued under licence in Australia and Portugal, with the last Portuguese versions being built in 1993. Back in 2012, however, the model was revived and upgraded after the Moke name was acquired, to form Moke International. Up until 2020, cars could be had with a Chinese-made 1083cc petrol engine. Now all new Mokes are electrically powered, and in June of this

ABOVE The British-built Moke is the ultimate in fun transportation.

Bespoke

year Nick English was appointed executive chairman of the business, which is based in Buckinghamshire. “Moke is an incredible British brand that always seems to bring a smile to people’s faces,” says Nick. “It started doing that in the 1960s, and it’s still doing it today. A Moke is simply incredibly good fun to drive or travel in – and I love the fact that we’re manufacturing in the UK. The cars are now fully homologated, and available to buy in many places outside Britain, including the US.” There are currently 800-plus names on the order books for the electrified Moke, which has a capped top speed of 50mph and an official range of 54 miles – although that figure is said to be conservative. Having a small, 33kW motor powered by a 10.5kWh battery does bring the bonus of fast charging times, with two hours plugged into a conventional three-pin socket being enough to top it up to 80 percent. With only 816kg to shift, the Moke is also pretty brisk, hitting 30mph from standstill in a little more than four seconds. There are five paint colours to choose from and just two optional extras: alloy wheels and a full-length roof (as an alternative to the standard ‘bimini’ set-up). Base price is £35,995. Find out more details at www.mokeinternational.com.

CA L LUM

BESPOKE WE DESIGN. WE ENGINEER. WE CREATE.

CALLUM specialises in the creation of bespoke and limited-edition products, offering full design and engineering services, low volume manufacturing and in-house trim facilities and expertise. We work in close collaboration with all our clients, taking their vision to turn dreams into reality. The result is meticulously crafted, individual pieces of the highest standards of luxury and individuality. CALLUM created this thoroughly reengineered Jaguar C-X75 as a bespoke client commission, taking the car to its ultimate road-going conclusion. With an all-new interior, enhanced powertrain and active aero, the result is a driver-focussed machine that has been engineered to use every day. We are CALLUM. Find out more at callumdesigns.com/bespoke

CALLUM DESIGNS FP BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1

28/10/2024 11:05

Case study

Words David Lillywhite Photography Hartnack & Company

Bespoke portfolios, albums and boxes are Hartnack & Company’s speciality – and the options are endless

SO YOUR CAR IS BEAUTIFULLY POLISHED, THE engine is on song, the interior is spotless. How about the paperwork? [Guilty silence follows…] We first came across UK company Hartnack & Company at the Pebble Beach RetroAuto show, and homed in on its bespoke portfolios, albums and boxes. Of course, being at Pebble Beach, the display was all about automotive-related products, but we discovered that Hartnack & Company started out in 2013 making a newborn’s ‘book of life’, followed by a children’s album and a memorial box for co-founder Nick’s late dad. The business expanded with a commission to create a leather-bound photographer’s portfolio folder, and not long afterwards it became clear that automotive enthusiasts had a need for something both safe and stylish in which to store crucial documents. Ever since, Hartnack & Company has been creating one-off pieces from its Devon base. Most commissions begin with a ruler and a board cutter that was made in 1912 – but from that point, every case is created by hand to the customer’s specifications. There’s one additional process that can’t be done by hand, though, and that’s

BELOW Classic car documents, treasured photos or life mementos – all can now be presented beautifully.

Bespoke

adding foil to the covers. For that, Hartnack & Company uses a foil-blocking machine made in 1860. This hefty cast iron creation would originally have used gas to heat the press, but it has now been converted to electricity. One of the firm’s recent commissions was for a box to house documents on a BMW 503 once owned by John Surtees. Its owner requested that the box match the car’s colouring – light blue and metallic grey with a black hood and red upholstery – and be trimmed using the last-surviving roll of red leather BMW used on 503s. Hartnack & Company’s document boxes and folders are often coloured to match the car in this way: sometimes two-tone, sometimes in racing livery, always according to the customer’s preferences. They can be trimmed using Buckram cotton cloth, Colorado or Windsor book cloth, linen, faux leather or a variety of leathers. The company doesn’t hold products in stock, but instead invites potential customers to talk through ideas. If you’re tempted, there’s a ‘how to order’ section on the website to show all the options, or you can go fully bespoke by contacting the team directly. Visit www.hartnackandco.com for more details.

‘‘Why did you make a new Rolls-Royce? The one you had was a classic.’’

sum

Timeless elegance,

REMASTERED FOR A NEW ERA.

EVICE FP BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1

28/10/2024 11:08

Bespoke

Under STEP INTO THE WORKSHOP OF O’ROURKE Coachtrimmers in West Sussex on any given day, and you’ll be sure to find hugely desirable and rare classics in various states of assembly. Next to the cars, a line of sewing machines are always chattering, as their operators meticulously prepare the fine leathers and exquisite materials that will end up in some of the world’s most detailed automotive interiors. From pre-war racers to ultra-modern supercars, the models cover a spectrum of history, and represent an equally diverse range of clients and ideas from around the world. But despite the passing of years, little has changed in the trimmers’ processes and materials. Time, immense skill and patience are still critical to creating beautiful interiors, and it’s specialists such as O’Rourke’s where the art continues to be practiced. Recent years have seen

a resurgence in demand – but, according to proprietor Rob O’Rourke, “although the techniques have not changed, the responsibilities of coachtrimmers have”. As electric cars rapidly become the norm, and we see the chapter close on the internal-combustion era, many classics are also becoming objects of historical significance. That means a car restorer’s eye for detail and originality has become more important than ever – as is proven by O’Rourke’s growing waiting list. Specialising in creating award-winning interiors, and widely known for his work with Ferraris, the characterful ‘Rorky’ is regarded by many as the best in the business, and in 40 years of trimming he’s seen the shift in focus first-hand: “Many classics that once came in were Sunday toys, often for retrims to suit a new owner’s taste. Today, as cars become assets, more customers are coming to

the

Why have specialist trimmers become so important in the highly critical world of car restoration? We strip it down

Words and photography Jayson Fong

seats

us for direction, wanting to return vehicles to their original state, to help preserve or enhance their value.” This growing demand has meant Rorky and his team have played a key role in extensive restorations, with their finds often helping to uncover a car’s true history. In a process they refer to as ‘carchaeology’, challenging and highly specialised projects require not just excellent coachtrimming skills, but also an understanding of past processes and the ability to carry out extensive research to ensure their work is as close to original as possible. Any car that comes to O’Rourke’s leaves with a truly bespoke finish. It begins with an initial assessment, where the existing trim goes under the microscope before being disassembled. “That’s where our most interesting finds are often made,” says Rorky. From notes scribbled on at the factory to poor repair jobs and questionable colour combos, trimmers have seen it all, hidden under multiple layers. This insight into details, fitment and quirks is highly valuable to preparing a project’s foundations, and is particularly needed for hand-built 1960s Ferraris. O’Rourke’s has trimmed many 250 GTOs and SWBs, over 50 Dinos, at least 40 275s and 11 California Spyders, many of which have gone on to win concours. After so many projects, the team can spot patterns of production that are unique to each marque and model. Although they prefer restoration over retrimming, it’s not always possible, especially given the age of many of the cars. “Things are only original once, so our goal is to have them leave in as close to original condition as possible,” Rorky says. To achieve accurate reproductions and finishes, meticulous research goes into determining a model’s history, in particular with regards to matching original materials, styles and colours. O’Rourke’s has built up its own archive of books, photographs, spec sheets, materials, templates and notes on production methods and techniques, to which the team constantly turn for reference. As such, O’Rourke’s has collected a staggering amount of knowledge, while working with

THIS PAGE Trimming is an elaborate juggle of traditional skills and modern tech.

original specialists such as Connolly Leather makes exact replication possible to ensure authenticity. And if the system of assessment is highly detailed, the process of replicating is frankly fanatical. Far from simply stripping out the originals, unpicking, retracing and then recreating, the job requires the use of in-house kit and specialist knowledge. Refabrication of materials not normally seen in a trim shop to rectify poor fitment, custom templating, making carpets, restoring frames, foam and dashboards... Each piece is unique, so the appraisal of materials and measurements is almost limitless in order to achieve a perfectly tailored finish. Watching master trimmers at work lets you witness how creativity is embedded into every step of the team’s workflow as they constantly problem solve and develop solutions. It’s an elaborate juggle of traditional skills that is incredible to see still being used. That’s not to say modern tech hasn’t got a place, though: 3D printing in particular has earned its place by allowing the team to reproduce moulds for parts that are no longer available. Coachtrimming’s recent renaissance is in part because, against today’s comparatively soulless mass-produced vehicles, classics provide an escape into another world. For many, the luxury of a beautifully trimmed interior now plays a more important role in creating a totally immersive driving experience. Whether it be for the fastidious collector who values originality, the custodian who wishes to bring a car’s history full circle, or the new owner who wants their own spec, coachtrimmers are part of the vanguard of specialists that are helping to preserve classics for the future.

‘Creativity is embedded into every step of the workflow’

Bespoke

NINEMEISTER FP BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1 4307_Ninemeister_Car_Builds_Advert_Magneto_Full_Page_Jul_2022.indd 1

28/10/2024 10:55 19/07/2022 00:32

Suits you Words Nathan Chadwick Photography Adam Fussell

Buying a suit can be a daunting process – we speak to Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes about how to cut a dash in the right way

“IF YOU DON’T GET AN OPPORTUNITY TO TRY out bespoke tailoring, you’ll never know what it feels like to really have something that fits you,” says Gieves & Hawkes head cutter, Davide Taub. “It isn’t just about how you physically feel, but how you mentally feel, too.” As our Savile Row story elsewhere in this magazine reveals, purchasing a suit is now about fun times, rather than the daily grind. As such, having a bespoke suit is now a more personal consideration than ever before. “It’s all very well saying ‘I want a blue suit because that’s what I wear the most’ – but does that suit really represent your character, lifestyle, culture, profession or even the suit’s purpose?” Davide explains. These are the kind of considerations he discusses with his clients during the first meeting at the Gieves & Hawkes no. 1 Savile Row premises. “Is it a smart suit for business occasions, or evening wear, or is it something you want to get as much versatility out of as possible? Are you in an environment where everyone’s wearing suits, and are they fashionable suits or conservative – or does that not matter?” Davide says. He finds a lot of first-time suit buyers are open minded, even if the initial spark to buy is more defined: “It may be for a wedding, but it’s also an excuse to get a suit made this way, and not just for that wedding.” The first stage is to create a pattern, the customer’s personal paper block. This is made from scratch from their measurements and styling choices – and this would take two fittings. “We’re moulding and sculpting the cloth three-dimensionally around their body, which creates a suit that is comfortable, stylish and has the ability to be adjusted,” Davide explains. The second fitting will allow the customer to see the suit taking shape. “You’ll see all the handiwork the tailors put in, such as the stitching, the layering of the inter-linings – all the things that get covered up as the suit progresses.” The third fitting is to make any last-minute changes – by this point the lapels and collar will be in place, but the hand-finishing won’t be. “That’s where the fine needlework comes in, with the edge stitches, the sewing of the lining, the sewing of the pockets and the construction of the buttonholes by hand,” Davide says. He explains that a suit can take four to five months to create: “We are changing and updating the pattern all the time, so when the first suit is finished, we have got a paper version. That means for subsequent

orders we can go for one fitting and then completion.” Davide believes that when it comes to colour, the key factor goes back to how the suit will be used. While a contemporary wardrobe needn’t be a binary blue/grey consideration, thinking tonally is a good starting point for a wardrobe – meaning those two colours make sense. “It also means that you get the most versatility out of any garments – a lot of people want a suit, but they know they are not wearing it three days a week anymore,” he says. “Yet rather than just seeing that suit in the wardrobe waiting to be worn, you can separate it. With the right choice of cloth, you can wear the trousers with sports jackets or knitwear, or you can wear the jacket with jeans or chinos.” For Davide, buying a bespoke suit is about more than acquiring a garment. “People are happy to spend up to £5000 on a labelled suit, but they’re not getting the fit, the quality of the cloth, the level of workmanship or the attention to design and individuality in style close to what we’re delivering for just a few thousand more,” he says. “Our customers are buying into the culture, the heritage of something hand-made – the stitches are sewn by hand, the cloth is woven by hand; it’s moulding and sculpting, with skills passed down through tailors of the past.” The most important thing, however, will be how it looks. “People are going to think it’s a great-looking suit because of the way it fits you – and only you.” You can find out more at www.gievesandhawkes.com.

THIS SPREAD A bespoke suit is the ultimate in sustainability and personal sartorial style.

Gieves & Hawkes

Timeless elegance, remastered for a new era

Few cars sum up the exquisite mixture of elegance, grace and style better than the Rolls-Royce Corniche HENRY ROYCE SAID “TAKE THE BEST THAT exists and make it better” – and this is the founding principle of Evice. The company’s aim is to remaster the legendary Corniche, combining the very best of modern technology with classical design and styling. An icon of the 1960s and ’70s, the car became a musthave among the elite, from royalty to rock stars to business leaders. Its elegant refinement made it an icon of British engineering and design. Six decades since the RollsRoyce’s inception, Evice is remastering it to place it back in its rightful place at the centre of modern luxury. “Our mission is to write a love letter to these extraordinary vehicles,” explains Evice CEO Matthew Pearson. “Legislative requirements have driven cars in a direction that leaves people yearning for the style, elegance and poise of a classic such as the Corniche. By integrating the very best modern tech, we elevate these vehicles to once again represent the pinnacle of effortless motoring. A Rolls-Royce cannot be too smooth, too refined or carry

ABOVE Evice’s Corniche is the very essence of taking the best and making it even better.

Bespoke

itself with too much grace. Our remastered Corniche delivers all of this without the compromise of a new car.” While tech is a key part of Evice’s DNA, with much of it developed in-house, craftsmanship is central. Each project begins with a bare-metal restoration of a Corniche. From this blank canvas each Evice customer, supported by designers and craftsmen, creates their own take on the classic – the result is automotive art. Each car is hand-built in Evice’s studio in Surrey. The most exciting evolution comes from the bespoke 800V electric powertrain, providing the whispery power for which Rolls-Royce is famed. Braking and suspension systems are also tastefully upgraded, enhancing the unmistakable cloud-like ride while adding modernday usability and safety. Limited to 60 cars, the first customer builds are about to begin, for delivery in 2026. Henry Royce laid down a marker for excellence; Evice is taking that commitment to quality to the next level. Find out more about Evice at www.evicecars.com.

HARTNACK FP BESPOKE MAGAZINE.indd 1

28/10/2024 11:01

The reallife Words Kip Springer Photography Gilo Industries

Gilo Industries makes the kind of devices that surely belong only in the movies, thanks to the passion of its founder Gilo Cardozo

A S SAM WEDGWOOD TUGGED ON THE STARTER cord and sent the tiny, two-stroke engine buzzing into life, I couldn’t help but be reminded of that line from the late David Bowie’s ‘Space Oddity’: “Check ignition, and may God’s love be with you.” And I have to admit that the subsequent sight of the same motor driving a four-foot propeller into a circular frenzy, and Wedgwood attaching the whole lot to his back with a pair of nylon shoulder straps, suddenly got me thinking: “Do I really want to do this?” ‘This’ being my maiden take-off by paramotor, that decidedly Heath Robinson combination of a giant, aerofoil kite (or ‘wing’ as it’s properly called) and a motor-driven propeller that’s carried by the pilot and controlled by a hand throttle. Initial flights are best taken with someone who knows what they’re doing, which is why I found myself attached to Wedgwood’s harness (and therefore to Wedgwood’s pelvis), and following his non-optional instructions to run across a stubble field in order to fill the wing’s wind pockets with air and effect a take-off. I had assumed we’d have to run for some time to have any hope of becoming airborne – but we can’t have taken more than four paces, straining against the wing like a pair of optimistic World’s Strongest Man contenders trying to pull a ten-tonne lorry, before the field became but a postage-stamp patch on a far bigger picture that was the county of Wiltshire stretching below. There was undeniably a fear phase and, as images of my children flashed into my mind, even a momentary wish that I had paid for adequate life insurance. But an adrenaline-fuelled feeling of unbridled joy took over within seconds, along with the unquestionable realisation

‘A feeling of unbridled joy took over; paramotoring was everything I had hoped it’d be’

THIS SPREAD ‘Real-life Q’ Gilo Cardozo’s Gilo Industries brands cater for various adrenalineinducing hobbies.

Bespoke

addition, no special licence is required, there are no official service intervals and, perhaps best of all, a pilot can take off from any suitable, flat area – and, thanks to the versatility afforded by the motor, can cover significant distances and choose where to land. There are various paramotor manufacturers to choose from, ranging from better-known brands such as the Czech Republic’s Nirvana and Germany’s Fresh Breeze to far smaller operations. However, the one I’ve heard the most about is Parajet, for which Wedgwood is the product director. While hunting down its HQ in the village of Semley, Wilts, I had it in mind that I should be looking for a windswept shed containing three or four people quietly working away to fulfil a handful of orders. Having traversed a farm track and drawn up on the immaculate concrete of the bucolic Chaldicott Barns trading estate, I realised I couldn’t have been more wrong. Parajet operates from three large industrial units. It currently sells more than 50 machines per month and employs a team of close to 100 people, ranging from highly qualified design engineers to time-served fabricators and skilled assembly technicians. The place hums with a thrilling vibe of creativity that’s inspired by its unlikely boss, Gilo Cardozo (pictured below). A 45-year-old ‘real-life Q’, he’s the founder of a business with the suitably Bond-like name of Gilo Industries that, as well as Parajet, also includes Rotron (a maker of smallcapacity rotary engines), Crighton Motorcycles (a racing

that paramotoring was everything I had hoped it’d be: the most straightforward way to fly for the pure fun of it. The idea of owning a light aircraft has long appealed, but the associated drawbacks have not: hangarage, maintenance, private pilot’s licences, purchase and running costs, and, above all, the fact that landing and take-off sites are almost invariably not quite where you are or where you want to go. A conventional (ie unmotorised) paraglider deals with some of these points, although it’s necessary to find a hill from which to take off, direction of travel is governed by the wind and its rare to be able to predict a landing spot. Gyrocopters offer greater versatility but, as with other light aircraft, are subject to licensing and maintenance regulations, plus require an initial outlay that many people who simply want to fly for amusement might find hard to justify. The paramotor, however, seems to overcome all such problems. It’s relatively inexpensive to buy, it packs away to a size small enough to sling into the back of most cars, and it is simple to maintain. In

Gilo Industries

bike manufacturer) and Mako Boardsports, which produces a motorised, carbonfibre surfboard. Cardozo, one of nine children, became fixated by engines at an early age and built his first, entirely from scratch, when he was just 14. It was two years later, however, when he first saw a thumbnail-sized photograph of a paramotor in action – and decided, there and then, that he had to have one: “It was preinternet, so finding information about paramotors or where to buy one wasn’t as easy as it is today. But it turned out that an old Army friend of my father’s had one, and he sold it to me for almost nothing.” The vendor in question – the father of singer James Blunt – had abandoned the machine due to its amateurish construction and dubious reliability. “It was certainly a bit primitive, but it did get me flying,” continues Cardozo. “It got me thinking about how to make one that was far lighter, safer and more efficient.” Although only 19 at the time, he funded his project by designing and making long-range fuel tanks for owners of a Japanese-built paramotor called the DK Whisper, which was at that point the leader in the field. But production of the Whisper ceased when parent company Daiichi Kosho, then the world’s largest maker of karaoke machines (honest!) appointed a new president, who saw no future for the paramotor subsidiary. The irrepressible Cardozo subsequently managed to acquire the remaining Whisper inventory, which he shipped to Britain and used as the basis for forming Parajet more than 20 years ago. He developed and improved the design, initially working in a barn workshop at his parents’ home. Here he designed a new

framework and worked with a local engineer to develop and build a lighter, more efficient powerplant. Cardozo gave his fledgling firm a useful publicity boost in 2007 by flying above Mount Everest alongside adventurer Bear Grylls, in order to prove the capability of his designs, and the latest Parajet models are now considered state of the art within the industry. They range from the Maverick Mav Neon at £5122 to the £9500 Maverick II LE 3 – and there’s even a paramotorpowered flying car called the Xplorer, based around an 85mph off-road buggy, that will set you back £120,000. You’ll need to buy a ‘wing’ on top of that – but Parajet won’t let you take it all away until you’ve undergone some formal training, which initially involves ground handling of the wing, the theory of flight and how to read the weather. Next, beginners advance to practicing getting into and out of the seat, and then take some basic tow flights with the wing, before moving on to running with both it and the paramotor to get used to the weight and balance. After about three days they should then be ready for a first solo flight, which takes place in radio communication with an instructor on the ground. And after that – the sky really is the limit...

THIS PAGE Whether it’s in the air or on the water, motors make it even more fun!

Bespoke

Stroke of

genius

READERS OF A CERTAIN AGE MIGHT REMEMBER the days when it was perfectly legal in Britain to leap out of bed on your 17th birthday and climb aboard a 250cc motorcycle capable of touching the ton, complete with L-plates flapping in the wind. You’ll probably remember, too, that the 250s everyone wanted were wailing two-stroke twins with power bands as narrow as a Rizla paper and emissions that induced watering eyes and the onset of respiratory disease. Yamaha offered the legendary RD, Suzuki the 100mph X7 and Kawasaki the exotic and super-smooth KH triple. But all the fun stopped in 1983 when, following an unsurprising number of serious accidents, legislation reduced the maximum engine size for UK learner riders to just 125cc. Values of quarter-litre machines instantly plummeted, with the final nails in the two-stroke coffin coming in 1984, when the US banned road-going twostrokes, and 2004 when, following the sale of the last Aprilia RS250 sports bikes, the only ‘2T’ machines available in the UK were small-capacity scooters. Two decades on, however, two-stroke fans need mourn no more, because Wigan-based Langen Motorcycles can now sell you a street-legal 250 that will blow those 1970s and ’80s classics right into the weeds. The Langen Two Stroke is the brainchild of engineer Christofer Ratcliffe, who founded the business in 2018 with the aim of designing a unique, lightweight bike. The fact that it turned out to be a two-stroke is down to the fact that, soon after, Ratcliffe encountered Italian enginedevelopment genius Vincenzo Mattia at Italy’s EICMA motorcycle show, where he was exhibiting a V-twin design that he began working on while still employed by Ferrari. Ratcliffe, who immediately knew the powerplant was what he needed for the embryonic Langen, struck a deal with Mattia (whose Maranello-based Vins Motors now makes its own, two-stroke sports bikes), and set about finalising his chassis design to suit. In September 2020 the first Two Stroke was unveiled at Salon Privé, where it wowed lovers of both café racer styling and exquisite engineering with its chassis handcrafted from laser-cut aluminium tubing, carbonfibre bodywork and sculptural, CNC-machined engine. Some who understood why two-stroke engines in road-going

British firm Langen’s hand-crafted modern-day two-stroke motorcycles are a far cry from their wild, smoky, noisy predecessors

Words Kip Springer Photography Langen

Langen

motorcycles had long been demonised, appeared baffled as to how a brand-new bike could sport such a powerplant yet still be billed as ‘street legal’. The answer lay in the fact that the Vins motor has taken the two-stroke well and truly into the 21st century, thanks to a combination of carbonfibre reed valves, electronic exhaust flaps, fuel injection and, importantly, ECU-controlled oil injection that all but eliminates the signature smoke trail by which old two-strokes could be identified from 200 yards away. While such machines – even those with automatic oil injection – typically ran on a mixture of around 30 parts petrol to one part oil, the Langen Two Stroke operates at a ratio of 200:1, making it more or less as ‘clean’ as a modern four-stroke. The benefits of using the modern tech include potentially excellent fuel consumption, low emissions, superb tractability and far greater mechanical reliability – plus, of course, the unrivalled pleasure of riding a two-stroke twin that can be screamed all the way up to 14,500rpm. At that sort of engine speed, the Langen is churning out 76 reliable horsepower (in race tune, the Vins unit makes more like 90bhp) which, in a machine weighing a gossamer 114kg, equates to a thrill-inducing 660bhp per tonne and a top speed of around 130mph. Each engine is built to order and fitted with an interchangeable cassette gearbox, with the rest of the bike being more or less bespoke in as much as buyers can have the riding position tailored to fit, plus choose their own suspension settings, spring rates, ride height and handlebars. To keep things on the straight and narrow, Langen has added the best ancillaries available such as HEL racing brakes, K-Tech suspension and Dunlop tyres. Bodywork, frame colours, wheel styles and even metal finishes are also down to the owner’s choice. Once completed, every machine is individually tested and then personally delivered. The first customer machine was delivered in December 2022 (with the owner choosing to have it stamped with production number ‘13’). Since then, other buyers have gone to town on the ‘clean sheet’ customisation option by specifying features such as unique CNC-machined components, race-quality Öhlins suspension and, in one case, a paint-job matched to the bike’s Ferrari garage-mate. Langen has capped Two Stroke production at 250; 100 of these will be built for the UK’s singlevehicle approval scheme, with the other 150 machines homologated for use in other countries. This company isn’t, however, a one-trick pony, as visitors to this year’s Concours on Savile Row might

have discovered if they spotted the prototype of a completely different machine, first deliveries of which are due in 2025. The Langen Lightspeed is a bruising, 1190cc four-stroke V-twin that churns out 185bhp at 10,600rpm – and, thanks to its carbon bodywork and liberal use of other exotic materials, weighs just 185kg (making for an even more impressive power-to-weight ratio than that of the Two Stroke, at 1000bhp per tonne). The Lightspeed’s Rotax engine comes from the Buell Hammerhead, but Langen adds its own exhaust and cooling systems plus, most significantly, a custom ECU map designed to increase the versatility of the bike so that it can be used for everything from long-distance touring to track days. As with the Two Stroke, each Lightspeed will be bespoke – and just 185 will be available. The Langen Two Stroke starts at £29,400 plus VAT, while the Lightspeed starts at £37,000 plus VAT. You can find out more at www.langenmotorcycles.co.uk.

THIS PAGE Bespoke machine gives all the thrills of two-stroke riding with none of the drawbacks.

Bespoke

SINCE 1984

Building on the past Ready for the future

EAGLEGB.COM

+44 (0) 1825 830966

Eagle - Magneto - October 2024.indd 1

21/10/2024 10:25