UNCLE SAM THE ROCKET MAN

¼” Painter’s tape Paint cubby Sponge pouncer or make-up sponge (for stenciling) Aluminum foil Flat smooth work surface such as a craft mat or smooth ceramic tile Craft knife Toothpicks White glue E6000 or similar strong glue Serrated kitchen knife Ruler Drill

CLAY NOTES:

Polyform® Model Air Porcelain Clay is watersoluble air-dry clay. It is very light and easy to manipulate. It has a soft texture like marshmallow or fondant. Cover unused clay tightly with plastic wrap. It’s a good idea to keep a wet shop towel handy to keep hands, tools, and work surfaces clean as you work. The clay will begin to dry out if you overwork it or expose it to air for too long. If that happens knead a few drops of water into it. Use water on fingers or a paint brush to smooth clay as needed. If too much water is used the clay will become mushy and stick to your hands and tools. Set it aside for a few minutes or knead it until it comes

UNCLE SAM: Sam’s head:

Use serrated knife to cut a small slice off the Styrofoam ball to make a flat side for hat to rest on. Pinch off a 1” ball of clay and roll out into a sheet of clay approximately 1/8” thick (insert Fig. #1). Use Super Slicer to lift clay sheet. Press clay sheet onto flat part of ball. Systematically press clay and cover the entire ball pushing out air pockets as you work. Pleat and remove excess clay with craft knife. Smooth clay by gently rolling

FIG 1

in palms or on your work surface. Locate flat part of ball and press onto work surface to flatten. Insert toothpick halfway into opposite end of ball (neck area). Roll a 1/8” ball of clay and press onto toothpick at base of head for neck. Use Rubber Tip Shaper to blend top of neck into head. Use wet paint brush to smooth clay as needed.

Nose:

Roll a 1/16” ball of clay and press onto center of face. Use the Rubber Tip Shaper to blend top of nose into the wet clay then use a wet paintbrush to smooth.

Eyes:

Use the large end of the ball stylus to make indentations where eyes will sit. Roll two tiny balls of clay for eyes and gently press into the indentations. Roll two pieces of clay the size of rice for eyebrows and attach above eyes.

Ears:

Roll a 1/16” ball of clay then cut in half. Place the flat side of the ear onto the side of the face. Use the stylus to indent the front of the ear. Repeat for the other ear. Mustache: Roll a 1/16” ball of clay into a 1” log. Gently taper ends of log then place the log under the nose. Use the edge of the Rubber Tip Shaper to indent the center of the mustache. Use your fingers to carefully shape the ends of the mustache as desired.

Beard:

Roll a 2/16” ball of clay for the beard. Roll the ball into a cone shape. Use the Rubber Tip Shaper to press top of beard onto face under mustache. Use the chisel edge of the tool to texture top half of beard. Set head aside to dry several hours. I like to insert the end of the toothpick into a scrap piece of Styrofoam to hold the head until it is dry.

Stovepipe Hat:

Roll a 1” ball of clay, then roll out into a sheet large enough to cover sides and wide end of cork. Use the super slicer to cut a piece of clay to cover sides of cork (Insert Fig. #2). Wet the cork then attach clay to sides. Use craft knife to trim excess clay. Roll in palms to push out air pockets. Cut a piece of clay for the wide end of the cork and press on. Use finger pressure to smooth into sides of hat. Roll a ½” ball of clay into a circle for the brim. Press top part of hat firmly onto enter of brim. Apply a thin layer of glue to the top of the head then press hat on. Set aside to dry.

FIG 2

Hair:

Apply a thin layer of white glue with a brush to the hair area. Press small bits of clay onto head. Use the Rubber Tip Shaper to shape hairline and to flatten the top edge of the hair just under the hat’s brim. Use the chisel edge of the tool to make hair detail.

FIG 3

Body:

Cover the shaft of rocket with aluminum foil and tape to secure. Insert the rocket dowel into the base but do not glue at this time. Roll a 1 ¼” ball of clay, then form a cone shape. Place atop the rocket shaft in desired location. The bottom of the cone should make good contact with the rocket’s shaft. Press the top of the cone forward slightly. Use the Needle Tool to make a hole in the top of the cone to accommodate toothpick/head assembly (Insert Fig. #3).

Collar:

Roll a ¼” ball of clay into a log. Flatten slightly with roller then cut one end on a diagonal. Lift clay with Super Slicer then wrap around top of body for a collar. Mark the other end of the collar, remove clay, and cut the other end also on a diagonal. Carefully wrap the collar around the top of the body. Insert the toothpick (head) into the neck hole for fit. Adjust the collar as needed to cover neck and not interfere with beard.

Legs:

Form a 1” ball of clay then cut into 2 equal parts. Roll each half into 2” logs. Flatten one end of each log for Sam’s pant cuffs. Cut a tooth in half and insert the pointed ends into the center of each cuff leaving approximately ¼” sticking out (you will attach the shoes to these posts). Use the side of the Needle Tool to indent the pant

FIG 4

cuffs. Carefully press the top of the leg onto the body. Hold in place with light pressure until the clay adheres. Repeat for the other leg. Bend legs gently at the knees (Insert Fig. #4).

Arms:

Form a ¾” ball of clay and cut in two equal parts. Roll each half into logs 1 1/2” long. Slightly flatten one end of each arm. Use the side of the Needle Tool to indent a thumb and four fingers for hands and a cuff just beyond the hand. Press onto the top of the body and hold until secure. Bend the arm gently and use light pressure to push hand onto rocket. Repeat with the other arm. Use the side of the Needle Tool to indent some creases on the inside of the elbows.

Shoes:

Roll a ¾” ball of clay then cut in 2 equal parts. Form each half into egg shapes then flatten the sole areas. Use the side of the Needle Tool to indent the heels and soles. Gently press the shoe onto the post in the bottom of the pants then remove the show and set aside to dry. When clay is dry, carefully remove figure from rocket. Remove tape and foil from the rocket shaft. The center of the body may still be uncured. Set aside overnight to dry thoroughly.

PAINTING NOTES:

Use appropriately sized brushes unless otherwise noted. Use the mop brush to soften floats as needed.

PREPARATION:

Apply Multi-Purpose Sealer to all clay and wood parts except axels. Let dry then sand lightly. Insert axels into holes to check for fit. If they are difficult to insert, sand the axel dowels until they can be easily inserted but fit snuggly.

PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS:

UNCLE SAM:

Base coat the crown of the hat Snow (Titanium) White. Use Tuscan Red to paint top of crown and 6 evenly spaced vertical stripes. Use Uniform Blue to base the hatband, brim and vertical pinstripes. Use Uniform Blue + Snow (Titanium) White (2:1) to drybrush the hatband and brim. Use the end of a paintbrush and Snow (Titanium) White to make a dot on the hatband (under one of the blue pinstripes). Make one star at a time. While the paint is still wet use the tip of the liner to pull 5 arms to form a star. It is helpful to think of a clock. Pull the top arm at 12:00, and the upper arms at 2:00 and 10:00. Pull the lower arms at 4:00 and 7:00. Let dry thoroughly. Brush a light coat of sealer on the hat to protect it while you paint the head.

Head/Hands:

Use Sugared Peach to base skin areas. Use a small amount of Blush Pink to drybrush cheeks, nose and ears. Use Snow (Titanium) White to base eyes. When dry use the stylus to add a dot of Graphite in the center of each eye. Let dry then add a small dot of Snow (Titanium) White highlight. Use Grey Sky to base the hair, mustache, and beard. Let dry. Drybrush highlights with Snow (Titanium) White

Shirt:

Use Grey Sky to under-coat the shirt. When dry use Tuscan Red to base the shirt. Use Snow (Titanium) White to base the cuffs, collar, and stripes. Use the stylus and Shimmering Silver to add three buttons to the first of the shirt.

Jeans:

Use Uniform Blue to base the jeans. Use Uniform Blue + Snow (Titanium) White (2:1) to drybrush highlights on the jeans. Use the same mix to

paint two back pockets, a waistband, and seams running down the outside of each leg. Use Prussian Blue to float shading along seams, under waistband, and around pockets. Use Snow (Titanium) White to paint tiny stitches on waistband, pockets, seams, and cuffs. Use the stylus and Shimmering Silver to add studs to the upper corners of the pockets.

Shoes:

Use Graphite to base shoes. Use Graphic + Snow (Titanium) White (4:1) to drybrush shoes. Add white glue to the posts in the pant legs then insert post into shoes.

WOOD BASE:

Mix Bleached Sand + Titanium White (2:1) and store in a paint cubby. Use this mix to base coat the wood base until opaque.

Blue Field:

Measure 2 ¼” from one end of the base and tape off. Use Uniform Blue to base coat until opaque. Use Prussian Blue to float shading along the lower inside edge. Transfer lettering. Use the Bleached Sand Mix to base the lettering and paint stitches along the shaded edge.

Red Stripes:

Use the ruler to find the center of the striped area and tape off 5 stripes ¼” wide on the top and sides of the base. For best results burnish the tape down well with finger pressure then apply a thin coat of Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry. Use Grey Sky to underpaint the stripes. Let dry. Use Tuscan Red to base the stripes. Remove tape. Use the chisel edge of a shader to clean up any paint that may have bled under the tape. Tip: Rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer works well to remove dried paint. Touch up light stripes with the Bleached Sand Mix as needed.

Wheels and Rocket:

Use Uniform Blue to base wheels and rocket cone until opaque. Line up the star stencil on one side of the wheel then use the pouncer or make-up sponge and with a small amount of Bleached Sand Mix to pounce over the stencil. Hold the stencil in place and use a blow drier to dry the first coat. Repeat until opaque. Repeat for the other 3 wheels. Stencil smaller stars on each facet of the rocket cone. If using the pattern for the stars, transfer the patterns and use the Bleached Sand Mix to basecoat. Use Prussian Blue to float shading around the stars on the wheels and on the rocket cone. Use the Bleached Sand Mix to paint stitches along the outer edge of the wheels. Paint the hub caps Tuscan Red. Use Grey Sky to under paint the rocket shaft. Use Tuscan Red to paint the shaft until opaque.

Rocket post and wood fuse:

Use Grey Sky to under paint the post and fuse. Let dry then base again with Shimmering Silver. Paint the end of the fuse Tuscan Red.

Optional Sparkly Fuse:

Cut two chenille stems in thirds. Gather all six pieces and twist at one end. Secure twisted end with a dab of white glue.

Wood Bead:

Use Uniform Blue to base until opaque. Use sandpaper to distress edges of wheels and rocket as desired.

FINISHING:

Use Sealer/ Finisher to seal wood parts and clay figure.

ASSEMBLY:

Attach wheels to base. Drill a small hole in the center of the blue end of the base for eyelet and screw in. Cut string and tie to eyelet. Thread the other end of the string into wood bead and make a knot. Glue rocket’s post into base. Glue fuse into blunt end of rocket shaft. Slide figure onto rocket from the cone end. Decide where the figure fits best and apply strong glue to the rocket shaft. Hold figure in place until secure.

Enlarge or reduce to fit your surface.

Note to reproduction companies/stores: The bearer of the original color magazine has full rights to have this drawing reproduced and enlarged one time for personal use. This notice has been printed in red ink for verification of authenticity.

Passing the Paintbrush...

It is a well-known fact among writers that to produce a good story, the hero should have something he/she wants that is in direct conflict with what he/she really needs. The relationship between want vs, need, provides drama, conflict and eventual resolution. It’s the same way with artists in real life. We often want something badly enough to sacrifice for it, only to find that the original goal wasn’t what we really needed. When you struggle to reach a goal, your life will change. Think of all the famous people you hear about who sacrificed their childhood and health for fame and fortune, only to

By Teri Walker

Want vs. Need

lose it all to substance abuse, broken relationships and even criminal acts. Many don’t survive because they never realized that what they wanted, was not what they really needed. The struggle may have brought financial success, but the physical and emotional changes that followed came at a tremendous cost. Artists struggle. It’s a fact of life. No matter what you make or how skilled you are, you are going to face challenges. And eventually, you will reach that dark moment of total dissatisfaction when the thing you want most seems impossible to attain. The creative well runs dry and ideas

are as elusive as picking winning lottery numbers. Not only is this frustrating, but it can be paralyzing. When frustration turns into self-doubt, many art careers take their last dying gasp. But dissatisfaction can become a tremendous turning point, if you choose to persevere. Persistence and determination are powerful allies, if you understand the basic difference between want and need and you refuse to give up. As an artist, you probably want recognition, appreciation, admiration, financial success, and so on. All are noble and attainable goals. But stop and

ask yourself why you want these things? What need do you have that your artwork satisfies? I’ll venture a guess... Like the heroes in every story, the greatest need we humans share, is the need to be loved. We spend our lives cultivating the acceptance of others. Love gives us a sense of value. Everyone needs to be needed and appreciated by someone else. We base our self-worth on how valuable we believe we are to those who matter to us. We create art from a place deep down in our souls and sharing it with others is like giving a part of ourselves to the world. This can be frightening because we crave approval, not rejection. We want our art to be successful so that our need for acceptance (i.e. love) is met. Setting and achieving goals moves society forward. It’s how we progress each generation. As an artist or writer, you should have attainable goals, but I urge you to give some thought to your specific needs as well. For example: you want to paint a project to sell at a craft fair to make money because you need to pay your rent and buy groceries. See the difference? So, you paint your project and the person who buys it is thrilled and praises your talent. Wants met. Needs met. Winwin situation. Not all buyers will actually love you but desiring your work enough to pay for it will provide financial success, encouragement, enthusiasm and motivation to continue what you love doing.

Figuring out what you personally need from your art is the first step toward success. Keep your wants and desires in line with your real needs and you will never suffer artist lock. You have the ability to open new worlds of creativity by pursuing things that bring you joy. Some people will not like your work, no matter what. But there are a lot more who will love it. There is a huge generation of future artists and writers in this world who need your inspiration and encouragement. I urge you to Pass your Paintbrush, every time the opportunity to share presents itself. The greatest gift you can give another, is your time. If your basic need is to be loved, then sharing art with others will always satisfy.