5 minute read
Mini Break to Guernsey on Condor Ferries
from 4Dorset July 2018
by Dorset View
No passport needed
Three-day mini break to Guernsey with Condor Ferries
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By Janine Pulford
The island of Guernsey is as pretty and as intriguing as any Mediterranean destination. The only difference is, it has been British since 1213, so if you’re British, you don’t need a passport to visit.
Condor Liberation
Despite a couple of attempts by the French to seize Guernsey and one attempt by the Germans, who occupied it from 1940-1945, the island remains part of the Crown and indeed is one of its jewels.
A self-governed island, Guernsey flies its own flag and has its own States office.
We are very lucky living in Dorset because Condor Ferries is on our doorstep and can get us to Guernsey in just three hours. Condor started its service to the Channel Islands in 1964 and now operates out of Poole, Weymouth and Portsmouth carrying visitors to and from Guernsey, Jersey and the French port of St Malo.
Day One
My husband and I set off to Poole early on a Monday morning. After breakfast on board Condor Liberation, the finale to our relaxing passage was being greeted in St Peter Port by a pod of dolphins.
When we drove off the ferry, we noticed a number of passengers with bicycles, presumably to enjoy the 11 cycle tours around the island. As our mini-break developed, we could see the advantage of cycling, especially as my mapreading skills left a lot to be desired and we got lost twice. Quite a feat on an island only 12 miles long.
St Peter Port is a pretty capital, with a marina, numerous shops, bars and restaurants. We spent ages browsing in the town and noticing how cheap some of the prices were without VAT as this tax does not exist on Guernsey.
At leisure, we drove to Les Douvres Hotel, a few miles from the ferry terminal. Having seen the recent film, ‘The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society,’ we found the mix of old and new furniture at the hotel charming. Whilst refusing to let go of the past, Les Douvres welcomes the new, with comfortable beds, ensuite facilities, outdoor swimming pool and free wi-fi. We booked our evening meal, then took a long walk before returning to eat, by which time the restaurant was full.
German Occupation Museum
Day Two
We wanted to take in the history of the island and set off for the German Occupation Museum. Clothing, uniforms, weapons, newspaper reports, hand-written diary entries and news footage were absorbing. Before the Occupation, 17,000 people, including the children, were evacuated, leaving only 23,000 islanders behind. By the end of the war, the few who remained, were starving, along with the Germans, hence the now-famous potato peel pie recipe. Other offerings like potato sponge, potato and apple pudding, macaroni blancmange and marrow pudding are documented in the museum. Sadly, most of the 700 horses that the Germans brought with them, were eaten, and visits by the Red Cross ship, SS Vega, from Lisbon clearly saved lives.
We spent hours at the museum before setting off for a coffee. This was enjoyed overlooking Portelet Harbour on the way to the Shipwreck Museum at Fort Grey. Built in 1804 as part of a chain of defences during the Napoleonic Wars, Fort Grey has more recently been painted white, and forms a mariner’s navigation mark. Ironically, it now houses artefacts salvaged from the shipwrecks in the area including some from HMS Boreas, which sank in 1807 with the loss of 127 men. A cannon from the frigate points towards the Hanois reef where she sank, and where over 100 other ships foundered between 1734 and 1978. The last ship driven aground within sight of Fort Grey was the Vermontborg in January 2003.
From Fort Grey, we followed the coast road, passing many sandy bays, before stopping for a stroll across Pembroke L’ancresse nature reserve, seeing only the occasional dog walker. Bird life thrives, and this could be because there are no foxes, badgers or squirrels on Guernsey.
We called into Beaucette Marina, situated in a stone quarry, which is picture postcard material. To round off our day, we ate in the Crow’s Nest at the Ship and Crown in St Peter Port overlooking the harbour and the various islands. It was time to return to the hotel and I blame tiredness on my poor map reading. It took fortyfive minutes to complete the 10-minute journey. Needless to say, I slept like a log.
St Peter Port
Day Three
After enjoying a leisurely breakfast beside the hotel pool, we packed our bags and drove to Saumarez Park. This stunning location contains a Victorian walled kitchen garden and Folk Museum. It was easy to while away the hours.
Luckily we were ahead of schedule because the short distance to St Peter Port took about 40 minutes. After passing the same church for the third time, we finally arrived at the ferry terminal. Guernsey could do with a few more signposts.
For its size, though, the island has a lot to offer and we didn’t have time to visit all the sights, or sit on any of the gorgeous sandy beaches, or take up surfing. There are also pearl and diamond outlets, Oatlands Family Centre for the kids and island tours - something for everyone in fact. But if it’s peace and quiet you yearn for, nearby Herm Island is the place to go as it doesn’t allow cars or bicycles. You can visit throughout the day, and even stay there.
Our mini break was ample time to get to know Guernsey enough to want to go back, and a trip to Herm Island is high on our list of things to do. As we waved goodbye to St Peter Port, a pod of dolphins escorted Condor Liberation out of the harbour and a few hours later, after an excellent meal on board, we were almost home with our duty free bargains (up to 40% off UK prices) and no passport checks to hold us up.
It was a brilliant three-day break and we would recommend it. We are considering returning for the Tennerfest food festival in October.
Les Douvres Hotel
