FASHION DESIGN PROPOSAL MAISIE
PREFACE In postgraduate study, I got the chance to join in the provincial research project launched by Hunan Normal University under the guidance of my supervisor. The project is Database Establishment and Industry Innovation Research and Development of Brocade of Tujia Nationality in Xiangxi. Within one year, I made on-the-spot survey, collected materials and
tried to design, which gave me certain understanding of the brocade of Tujia Nationality, one of the traditional Chinese crafts, but also stimulated me to make fashion design on the basis of the ideas.
E-mailďźš705206167@qq.com
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CATALOGUE SECTION 1
SECTION ２
BRAND PLANING
DESIGN WORKS
• Brand Introduction
• Inspiration
• Market Analysis
• Custom-Tailor
• Brand Positioning
• Womenswear : Classics
• Brand Analysis
• Womenswear: Trendy
• Product Analysis
• Accessories
• Management & Operation • Publicity & Sales • Brand Value
BRAND PLANNING
BRAND ITRODUCTION
NEST is the brand name. It takes traditional Chinese culture as the cradle, combines the exquisite brocade technique of Tujia Nationality with modern fashion design concept, creatively uses the traditional brocade fabric and pattern to create the womenswear with national appeal, fashion and elegance. It enables the females who are in modern society, high pressure but yearn for freedom and possesses artistic temperament to release their inner rebellion and meet their requirements of personality and culture, via the fashion design combining classics with modernization.
MARKET ANALYSIS
Domestic Market With the economic development in China and the promotion of comprehensive national power, the sense of national identity of Chinese is increasing. People pays more and more attention on and also highly recommends the folk handicraft which condenses the cultural essence of China. An increasing number of customers are willing to purchase the clothes marked with national characteristics. Meanwhile, the clothes industry and fashion designers realize that the traditional Chinese culture is like the breeding ground, always providing inspiration and motivation for fashion design. They consciously blend traditional national features in the current fashion clothes in their production and sales process. In recent years, the clothes industry in China also spares no efforts to forge the local product, brand and culture which carries Chinese features, such as the brand Exception, appreciated by the First Lady Peng Liyuan, the designer Guo Pei, who designed the dress for Rihanna for the 2015 Met Gala, and her personal studio. No matter judging from political aspect, market atmosphere or consumption demands, Nest, which combines traditional with modern in design, conforms to the market trend in China.
MARKET ANALYSIS
International Market With the deepening of economic globalization and the intensifying of international competition, the whole world attaches more and more attention to the enormous market in China. With the development of multi-culture and integration, an increasing number of fashion designer and fashion brand favor the traditional elements in China. Making a general survey of the big fashion shows in recent years, we find more and more Chinese elements in the formal occasions of celebrities and politicians. For example, using the traditional Chinese clothes profile, the Chinese totem as the clothes pattern, the unique fabric in China as the clothes material and the traditional craft to make fashion design. In October 2011, Hermes signed a 5-year supply agreement with Taiyanggu Dong Nationality Clothes Museum in Guizhou. The hand embroidery products of Miao and Dong Nationalities in Qiandongnan have been applied in the products of Hermes. In the Paris Fashion Week in March 2012, the couture with Miao embroidery and pattern appears in the show, which aroused the trend of Chinese culture and dress in the international fashion industry. This indicates that the clothes with traditional Chinese features is very popular in international market, which possesses a good prospect.
MARKET ANALYSIS
Some brands home and abroad have directly or indirectly use the traditional crafts in their design. In domestic market, it tends to follow the high-class couture path, or very traditional, or tends to be too exaggerated. The objective belongs to a small group of customers. The product structure is simple, without big change, modernization and internationalization, and even lacks in the practicability. The foreign design is like a flash in the pan, which only confines in the products of a season. It tends to serve its original design concept to cater for the current trend.
Facing the market and current trend, the aesthetic consciousness of customers is improving. The collision of different design culture further requires the fashion brands to have their own characteristics and also tolerate, namely matching multiple elements. It also requires the clothes to conform the change of appreciation tendency. NEST emerges according to the market demands. With the help of the unique color of brocade of Tujia Nationality, it applies the modern clipping and modeling, fabric and color match, which covers the current fashion culture, as well as maintains the appreciation features of Eastern customers and its function.
BRAND POSITIONNING
The brand positioning of NEST is the womenswear combining traditional with modern, elegant with fashion. Comparing with other brands inspired by traditional elements but pursuing for localization, artistry and exaggeration, the main products of NEST is couture, which pursues for modernity, internationalization and functionality. It combines traditional elements with fashion culture, emphasizing containment and culture innovation. The brand does not blindly conforms to market and compete in price. It does not belong to the type of luxury, but hopes to cover most customers. So the price ranges from RMB 800 to 5000, which is relatively higher than common brands but more acceptable than luxury brands. The target group is the urban females whose psychological age is between 25-40 and who pursues for beauty. The main target is the office lady who has overseas life experience and works in arts and creative industry. They seek for the life styles, as well as are independent, brave, confident, elegant and dynamic.
BRAND POSITIONNING
HIGH
NEST
LOW
TRADITIONAL
MORDEN
BRAND POSITIONNING
Cultural Implication Design is the carrier of culture. Designers work out the dress via applying pattern, fabric, tailoring and modeling to express their aesthetic appreciation, awareness, personality and expression, which reflects the understanding and inspiration of current fashion culture and aesthetic cultural background. The culture concept that NEST wants to present is to be the bridge connecting traditional Chinese culture with modern design. It tries to display the brocade of Tujia Nationality, a traditional Chinese craft created in the daily life of ancient people, via the modern expression method. NEST represents spallation, just like the nest for birds. The young bird is fed by parents in the nest and then breaks away the constraint to fly on their own. NEST is going to express such kind of upward strength, the awe of traditional culture and hatch the fashion culture from the classics.
BRAND POSITIONNING
Features Cultural Passion Human civilization has developed into a variety of unique cultures. From birth, people are accepting the edification of their national culture. In the growing process, they can also gradually contact with other types of cultures. However, with the development of industrialization and multiple society, the frequent use of high technology makes us confused and lost, especially the young females in the workplace. They are special and may feel sensitive and weak. They needs to face the heavy living pressure, shoulder the family responsibility but also seeks for spiritual sustenance. NEST believes that every single female has their cultural passion, as well as shoulder the mission of cultural inheritance. The design with national features is able to meet their cultural demands and spiritual expression. Contradiction NEST is a contradiction – classic and modern, elegant and fashion. It is a comprehensive, complicated, abundant and charming female, who owns various personalities. It sends out various charm, sometimes be dignified, sometimes cognitive, sometimes sensitive, sometimes lively and sometimes witty, which reflects the different aspects of modern female. Revolution NEST advocates innovation. it dedicates to the fashion packaging of ancient and classic culture. It improves the craft of brocade of Tujia Nationality, realizes the industrialization, makes innovation and mix in fabric and refines the patterns to work out a gorgeous dress. It reflects the classic culture, as well blends with fashion culture.
BRAND POSITIONNING
Target Group Analysis Age
25—40
Occupation
Office lady or female working in arts field
Cultural Background
Major in arts, literature and history; Be interested in nation, history and culture
Personality
Artistic, love freedom, lively, fond of new things
Experience
Overseas study experience, fond of arts
Fashion Demands Living Style Purchase Style
Seek for the unique dress Pursue for fashion and living quality Fond of new shopping methods, sharing and expressing Willing to try the new clothes and feel the fabric in shops
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
The basic series of NEST is to provide customers with highclass dress of medium price, excellent utility and individuality
100-1500 CNY
• WOMENSWEAR
The high-end series is to provide individual customized service for customers in style and pattern.
•CUSTOM-TAILOR
We offer all kinds of accessories to match with clothes, such as jewelry, lady’s bag and shoes.
• ACCESSORIES
2000-5000 CNY Product Composition Trendy： 200-2500 CNY Classics: 800-3500 CNY
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
25-40 Custom-tailor
Celebrities and public figure Have certain economic foundation
Office lady, mature female
Generation of Young and Fashion
35-40 Womenswear：Classics
25-35 Womenswear：Trendy
The public
Unrestraint Accessories
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
CUSTOM-TAILOR
Modern 30
Costom-tailor
20 Colorful
10
Traditional
0
Exquisite
Practical
Product Style Analysis Custom-tailor WOMENSWEA
Modern 30
Classics
20
Colorful
10
Trendy
Traditional
0
Exquisite
Practical
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
• Release the classic winter series of womenswear • Release the fashion winter series of womenswear
Release high-end customized womenswear and accessories every June • Release high-end customized womenswear • Release accessories
• Release the classic spring series of womenswear • Release the fashion spring series of
womenswear
Accept order of special customized womenswear for the whole year Release the fashion design of winter series womenswear every February
Release the fashion design of spring series womenswear every October
Product Release Mode
MANAGEMENT &OPERATION Preparation • Designers analyze the current fashion trend of the year and forecast the future trend. • Estimate the market, prepare the capital and analyze product quantity. Arrangement
Design
• Analyze and summarize the design, production and sales of the season. • Make fund settlement to analyze the input-output ratio; provide evidence and reference for the design of next season.
• Conduct design according to the data generated in the preparation stage. • Confirm the final style and quantity of the design series.
Designer-oriented operation mode
Sales • Adjust the product and production according to the real sales. • Build database for product information to prepare for the summer season.
Production • Try to sell some products of this season. • Produce the clothes according to the sales feedback.
MANAGEMENT &OPERATION
•Impact of fast fashion
•Support from political
consumption
aspect
•Threat of similar products
•Industry revolution brings
•Survivability of famous
opportunity
brand
•Market demands of individual consumer
THREATS
OPPORTUNITY ＳＷＯＴ
STRENGTH
WEAKNESS
•A certain amount of
•Insufficient experience in
consumer market
operation, design and
•Research basis of traditional
production
handicraft
•Immature industry supply
•Individual and various
chain of brand and fund issue
design products with
•Small scale design and
excellent utility
production
PUBLICITY &SALES
Celebrity charm
Customer satisfaction
The main publicity methods are advertising, customer satisfaction and celebrity charm. Firstly, due to the limited capital, I will make advertising on the digital and paper media of fashion magazine. What I mainly rely on is the self-media and social network like Weibo and WeChat. For the other part, I wish the customers of NEST will be the best publicity and advertising for the brand. Celebrity charm is to provide free customized dress for public figures in public activities to improve the popularity of the brand.
Advertising
PUBLICITY &SALES
I take multiple sales modes, ranging from authentic shop to online shop. the consumer of NEST is urban female with fashion mind. They like sharing with others. Due to working pressure, they choose to do online shopping. But they also enjoy trying clothes and the special service provided for them. So I will set flagship store in the first-tier cities close to the production factory, as well as enter the stores of the first and second tier cities in China. Flagship online shops will be also established in the e-commerce channel with good reputation. The social website and software are used for product publicity, interaction and sales.
BRAND VALUE
NEST transfers traditional craft to modern industry, which is a beneficial trial to inherit and innovate the traditional folk arts. It gains new value for the ancient but exquisite arts. The combination of traditional and modern design seperate from the fast fashion in current society, which bestows unique charming value for the dress. The traditional brocade of Tujia Nationality has a long history and high aesthetic value. It offers inexhaustible inspiration for designers. What belongs to the nation is also belongs to the world. The innovation of traditional brocade of Tujia Nationality also provides a new idea and direction for fashion design.
DESIGN WORKS
I majored in media in undergraduate and only
studies professional fashion design for one year. My professional knowledge and ability are insufficient but I completed the following two series and accessories design with great efforts.
INSPIRATION
The design of NEST is based on the traditional Chinese craft – Brocade of Tujia Nationality. It is the unique handicraft of Tujia Nationality, which has experienced the development of more than 1500 years. It has blended in the national features of different times, recorded the history and culture transmission of Tujia Nationality and deeply reflected the traditional Chinese culture, which owned abundant arts and aesthetic implication and high arts creative value. The most distinctive feature is the brocade pattern, which is ample in type and unique in style.
INSPIRATION
Unmatched patterns On the basis of the abundant and unique pattern of brocade of Tujia Nationality, NEST uses the methods of extraction, deconstruction and distortion to re-create the patterns to design the unmatched clothes pattern, and then applies the modern methods like digital printing, bandhnu, wax printing, cyanotype, knit, hollow out, spiral, hot drilling, embroidery and bead to make the fashion design. The pattern of brocade of Tujia Nationality springs from the daily life of the nationality, which possesses high aesthetic appreciation and design values. It can be divided into several types: animal pattern, plant pattern, astronomy and geography pattern, objects pattern, lucky pattern and word pattern. Here are some representative examples: table pattern, chair pattern, sawtooth flower pattern, cortinicara pattern. All of them are imbued with dense national life, which reflects that the Tujia people wishes for better life and their deep love for life. The pattern is unique and abundant. Unlike the other folk crafts vividly restoring the things, it simplifies the abstract goods in daily life with abundant imagination and creativity. It used dot, line and plane to summarize, divide and simplify the square and triangle to present the goods. Such kind of expression method simplifies the pattern and is full of imagination and artistic expression, which conforms to the current fashion culture of simplicity and individuality.
INSPIRATION
Color match with national feeling The color of brocade of Tujia Nationality is bright, intense, gorgeous and forceful. It matches flexibly and is adept in using color comparison, which possesses strong national feeling. The color feature of Tujia Nationality is red and black oriented but avoiding white. Red represents brightness, wisdom, luck and celebration. Black is regarded as the symbol of integrity and authority. While white is often used in funeral ceremony. So white is not largely used in the traditional clothes of Tujia Nationality. Red, black, white, yellow, green and blue are the main colors used in the clothes of Tujia Nationality, supplementing with peach, pink, purple and light blue. Such kind of bright and dense color atlas is deeply affected by the living environment of Tujia Nationality. They live in the mountain area, which is unsophisticated, natural, gorgeous and full of vitality. The clothes pattern of Tujia Nationality pays much attention to the comparison and contrast of color. It often uses the complementation of original color and broken color, such as red and black, purple and yellow, orange and blue. A pair of inter-independent color combines together, giving us a strong visual shock. It also uses the methods of gradual change and regularization, like lightness and purity to evolve. The fashion design of NEST will draw on the distinct level change and strong visual comparison of color application of brocade of Tujia Nationality to make the clothes more dynamic and interesting.
INSPIRATION
Elegant and neat clipping style Because NEST has the national features, I design with the bright color as the basic pattern, so I consciously minus the style and version. The profile usually use the modern elegant and neat clipping, like high waist, umbrella skirt and slim dress. It makes the design combining traditional with modern, simple with elegance, fashion with femininity.
INSPIRATION
Modern blended fabric Silk, cotton and linen are the main raw materials of brocade of Tujia Nationality. They use the twill weaving machine, plugging the line around the waist, watching the reverse side, weaving the obverse side and using the picking weaving method to weave the unique pattern. The specific weaving methods include twilling weave and plain weave. Because of the characteristics, the edge line of pattern can only be picked up when the latitude line floats. Otherwise, the pattern outline will be out of shape. Such kind of expression method is adept in expressing the abstract geometric pattern. Hence the clothes pattern of Tujia Nationality have many unique artistic symbols.
Classic Grid Tujia Brocade
INSPIRATION
Modern blended fabric The traditional fabric is thick, heavy and rough, which cannot meet the demands of modern fashion fabric. Under the premise of inheriting the essence of brocade of Tujia Nationality, NEST improved the fabric and innovated the technique. It also applies the cutting-edge fabric design, like blended match of different fabric, laser cutting, complex coating, embroidery and compressed cotton to re-create the fabric and work out the exclusive fabric for NEST.
CUSTOM-TAILOR
Design Manuscript
CUSTOM-TAILOR
Color Composition
Style Chart Design Explanation The traditional color match of brocade of Tujia Nationality is used in the series, which focuses on red and black, decorating it with bright yellow and emerald green. In the design modeling, the classic and simple geometric segmentation design is combined with the re-creation pattern based on the traditional pattern of brocade of Tujia Nationality. In the aspect of fabric, I combine the traditional brocade fabric of Tujia Nationality with silk and Organza.
CUSTOM-TAILOR
Pattern Source
WOMENSWEAR CLASSICS
Design Manuscript
WOMENSWEAR CLASSICS
Design Explanation The national element of brocade of Tujia in Xiangxi of Hunan Province is blended in the series. I regroup the traditional pattern and style, using the color of black and white to decorate the leaping color match of traditional brocade of Tujia Nationality and adding the multiple asymmetric geometric tailoring, which forms a sharp comparison and contrast in the clothes, namely full of modern sense as well as national charm. Color Composition
Pattern Source
Fabric Composition
Tujia Brocade Pattern Composition
WOMENSWEAR CLASSICS
Sample
Paper Pattern
Working Process
WOMENSWEAR CLASSICS
Product Presentation
WOMENSWEAR TRENDY
Design Manuscript
Color Composition
WOMENSWEAR TRENDY
Design Explanation I extract the original brocade pattern of Tujia Nationality and combine it with the fashion colors like coral orange. The series use the basic fashion style of this season, the modern fabric like synthetic fabric and modern methods of freehand painting and computer printing, which makes the clothes of the series young and fashion.
Style Chart
Pattern Source
ACCESSORIES
Wallet Pattern Source
Fabric Leather Tujia Brocade Size 19cm*11cm Leather Color Composition
Design Manuscript
ACCESSORIES
Change Purse Pattern Source
Tujia Brocade Canvas
Fabric Size
Canvas Tujia Brocade 19cm*11cm
Front
Color Composition Canvas Canvas
Back Design Manuscript
FA S H I O N DESIGN PROPOSAL MAISIE 2016/01/05