Savoie - Magazine by Frans Bureau voor Toerisme

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SAVOIE Mmagazine ONT BLANC . .

TOURING AND CULTURE BE ENCHANTED BY OUR CHÂTEAUX, TRADITIONS, VINEYARDS...

SENSATIONAL

IN ALL SEASONS COME AND ENJOY SAVOIE MONT BLANC SPRING, SUMMER AND AUTUMN

DIVINE SPORTS, SPAS AND GASTRONOMY... SPLENDID GORGES CITY ET RUISSEAUX

FORÊTS

BREAKS AND GREAT LAKES

PÊCHE ENFANTS SAVOIE/HAUTE-SAVOIE Spring/Summer/Autumn 2007/2008 -

VIA FERRATA

CYCLO

VTT

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Introduction

Director Rémy Charmetant Editorial coordination for this issue Céline Guillermin (celine.guillermin@savoie-mont.com) Corinne Raïh (corinne.raih@savoie-mont-blanc.com) The following contributed to the production of Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine #1 Alice Ramus (alice.ramus@savoie-mont-blanc.com). These pieces were researched and written by Philippe Barbour (philippe.barbour.@googlemail.com) He is the author of and joint photographer for the Cadogan Rhône-Alpes guidebook (www.cadoganguides.com), which goes into more détail on Savoie Mont Blanc. Address - 24, bd de la Colonne, 73025 Chambéry Cedex - France - 56, rue Sommeiller, BP 348, 74012 Annecy Cedex - France - 31, avenue de l'Opéra, 75001 Paris - France +33 820 00 73 74 [the price of an ordinary call to France from Britain] www.savoie-mont-blanc.com info@savoie-mont-blanc.com

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SENSATIONAL IN ALL SEASONS From Mont Blanc and Lac Léman to Annecy and Chambéry, from glistening glaciers to flower-filled mountain meadows, from paragliding to thermal spas, from lake fish and fondues to deliciously refreshing waters and wines, you'll find Savoie Mont Blanc sensational in whichever season you visit

Editorial coordination Georges Bosi (georges.bosi@ledauphine.com) Production coordination Lionel Cabé (lionel.cabe@ledauphine.com) A Dauphiné Libéré publication/Alpes Loisirs 38913 Veurey Cedex - France Tél. +33 476 88 71 59 Advertising production Publiprint Dauphiné 38913 Veurey Cedex France Tél. +33 476 88 71 31 Managing director Patrick Claret Product manager - Patrice Seurot - Tél. +33 479 33 86 93 patrice.seurot@ledauphine.com - Romain Béhar - Tél. +33 476 88 73 56 romain.behar@ledauphine.com Photoengraving Trium (Seyssinet-Pariset - 38 - France) Printed in Italy by Maestro (St-Ismier - 38 - France) Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine is a publication produced by Le Dauphiné Libéré/Alpes Loisirs for Savoie Mont Blanc Tourisme. No part of this publication, neither the texts nor the illustrations, may be reproduced.

Free magazine. Not for sale. Non-binding document.

Cover photos (from top to bottom, from left to right) : Pellorce/Francedias.com; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Cavazzana; © Savoie Mont Blanc / F. Zvardon; © Savoie Mont Blanc / C. Haase; G. Lansard; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Fancy Jupiterimages; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit.

Francedias.com

Les Éditions Le Dauphiné Libéré Chairman and managing director Henri-Pierre Guilbert Editor-in-chief Patrick Peltier

The Paquier promenade - Lac d’Annecy.

We've prepared this magazine to focus your attention on the region's fabulous delights spring, summer and autumn. You can easily enjoy its unbeatable array of mountain ranges outside of winter, on contemplative walks, on exhilarating expeditions, on astonishing golfing greens, or by going mountain-biking on breath-taking slopes. Our famous great lakes are at their best in summer, warming up wonderfully for bathing and water sports like sailing, windsurfing or waterskiing. Plus they have many beaches on which you can lounge, admiring the mountains reflected in their waters. Savoie Mont Blanc isn't only for the sporty. Our territories offered awe-inspiring sites for abbeys and churches and inspired the Romantics to poetry. Our thermal spas were discovered by the Romans…but they have been updated recently to offer modern-day tourists a good pampering! You might enjoy taking your time savouring the region's culinary specialities, including its exceptional array of cheeses. Or discover our surprising valley vineyards producing fragrant wines.

Culture is very much on the Savoie Mont Blanc menu. Our many châteaux have fascinating historic tales to tell, as do our cities, with their rich cultural legacies. A good number of these are well connected for short breaks, with Chambéry/Aix-les-Bains international airport in our region, and Geneva and Lyon airports on our doorstep; plus a good number of our towns lie on the excellent French TGV rapid train network. Guided by the themes we present here, we do encourage you to make up your own itineraries to explore Savoie Mont Blanc. Or then there are ready-made routes, some signalled in this magazine, to help you round. Whichever path you choose, Savoie has innumerable appealing restaurants to sample along the way. The choice of accommodation is excellent too, going from smart hotels and B&Bs to great campsites and mountain refuges. In addition to this magazine, you'll find a wealth of further information on Savoie Mont Blanc through the seasons on the region's official website, www.savoie-mont-blanc.com

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touring

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Lake Pareis and the Cirque des Evettes in the Vanoise National Park.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S MIGHTIEST MOUNTAIN RANGES Located in southeast France, Savoie Mont Blanc boasts some of the most magnificent landscapes in Europe, stretching between Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and Provence. Here we offer you a tempting touring introduction.

Gran Paradiso national park, helping protect the endangered European ibex. With great glacier-sided peaks, the Vanoise park makes for glorious walking territory. The Tarentaise's famous ski resorts now offer a very lively summer season. Big resorts like Les Arcs and Val d'Isère put on a wide programme of summer sports. Méribel, Courchevel and Tignes boast striking golf courses. However, the Tarentaise also conceals adorable Baroque churches, lovely traditional villages and lively traditional towns. The Maurienne's ancient capital, St-Jean-de-Maurienne, has grand monuments. To north and west,

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: British Mountaineering Pioneers in Savoie Mont Blanc Adventurous British visitors to Savoie Mont Blanc went on many pioneering trips up our mountains. As early as the 1740s, two bold chaps, William Windham and Richard Pococke, tackled the biggest glacier above Chamonix, becoming the first people recorded as walking on the Mer de Glace. The brilliant Swiss scientist Horace de Saussure, passionate about Mont Blanc, was so excited by the achievement that he offered a reward for the first person to climb the Monarch's summit. This was achieved by locals Paccard and Balmat in 1786. De Saussure followed the next year, as did the first Brit to the top of Mont Blanc, Colonel Mark Beaufroy.

The Montenvers train from Chamonix.

Adventurous types should contact the renowned Compagnie des Guides in Chamonix to organize mountaineering trips to the top. Many more of you will no doubt plan exhilarating walks up the flanks of the Arve valley for the stunning views. Two mountain trains offer unforgettable, easy journeys up to great glaciers, the Tramway du Mont-Blanc from St-Gervais and the Train du Montenvers from Chamonix. Cable-car rides are a further fantastic option.

Moy/Francedias.com

The Massif du Mont Blanc in the east of our region, where France, Switzerland and Italy meet, is a Mecca for mountain lovers from across the globe. Awe-inspiring Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe at c.4808m (15,774ft), towers so much higher than the surrounding summits that it stands out startlingly from viewpoints right across Savoie.

Massif du Mont Blanc

The Mer de Glace in Chamonix.

Massif de la Vanoise Savoie's great southern range, the Vanoise, is encircled by two huge valleys: to the north, by the upper Isère, or Tarentaise; to the south, by the Arc, better known as the Maurienne. France's first national park opened in the Vanoise in 1963, linked to Italy's well-established

delightful discreet museums focus on local traditions. Press on east for wonderfully decorated churches, although Bessans craftsmen celebrate the devil…in comical wooden effigies. Impregnable-looking forts line the mid-slopes, but several now open to visitors.

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touring

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SENSATIONAL OTHER RANGES AND VALLEYS

To describe our wonderful other mountain ranges and valleys, we'll start with the region's northern border, Lac Léman, and work south. This is quite a rollercoaster of a geography lesson!

mountains. Explore the hills and gorges, orchards and the odd vineyard dotted around here, the heights often occupied by dramatic castles like Chaumont, Clermont and Montrottier, which you can visit.

Northern Savoie Mont Blanc: Chablais, Faucigny, Giffre and Arve

Central Savoie Mont Blanc: Bornes and Aravis, Val d'Arly and Beaufortain

The charming Chablais mountains rise behind Lac Léman. In western Chablais traditional museums are scattered in the old settlements. To the east, exciting dranses (torrents) race down via dramatic valleys. The pastures and romantic abbeys of Aulps and Abondance offer peace. South, the beautiful Faucigny and Giffre valleys are strung with lovely old villages and spectacular waterfalls. The Arve winding east towards Mont Blanc is big and burly, with industry, but interesting towns.

East of Lac d'Annecy, the Bornes and Aravis form a sensational backdrop to France's most famous lake. The odd intriguing château hides out here too, while a courageous Resistance group took to the Plateau des Glières. Around the picturesque traditional centres, you'll find excellent addresses for Reblochon cheese. East, the Val d'Arly's sweet villages are very family-friendly. Climb south for the exceptionally picturesque high pasturelands where the great Beaufort cheese is produced.

Northwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Genevois, Haut-Rhône, Albanais and Chautagne

Southwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Lakelands and Bauges Regional Nature Park

West of Geneva and Annecy, northwest Savoie bound by the Rhône is a delightful area of smaller, rolling

Utterly beautiful Lac d'Annecy and Lac du Bourget dominate the tourist scene here. All manner of cruises

and water sports are possible from enchanting lakeside towns and villages. Between the lakes, the forested flanks of the Bauges range look intimidating, although plucky vineyards cling to the southern slopes. Explore the old craft villages in the heart of the Bauges.

Southwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Avant-Pays Savoyard and Northern Chartreuse From the lovely canal-side village of Chanaz, follow the gorgeous Marestel Rhône wine route south through the Avant-Pays Savoyard. This frontier territory of rolling hills is one of the most peaceful areas for tourists in Savoie. There's a third spectacular, quieter great lake to discover here, Lac d'Aiguebelette. Savoie has also bagged the northern half of the Chartreuse range, highlights including the Mont Granier and the Cirque de St-Même. Above: Field of flowers and view of the Roc d'Enfer in the Chablais. Below: Village of La Compote in the Bauges Regional Nature Park.

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Engraving of the 1860 vote for independence at Chambéry.

history & traditions

After our geography lesson, here's a brief but useful history lesson on Savoie Mont Blanc! Prehistory to Sapaudia A few traces have been found of hardy prehistoric men in Savoie, notably beside the great lakes. Certain mountain passes were used in ancient times. The great Carthaginian general from North Africa, Hannibal, possibly tried to sneak up on Rome with his army and elephants via the Mont Cenis, in 218 BC. The Romans stepped into Savoie in 121 BC. Aix-les-Bains has kept the most remarkable Roman ruins. In the Dark Ages, a new tribe from the east baptized the region Sapaudia, land of the firs. Grand staircase in an historic Chambéry mansion.

Savoie's Independent Lords At the start of the first Christian millennium, Savoie's territories lay within the Holy Roman Empire, but the region emerged as a semi-autonomous state in the 11th century, when Humbert aux Blanches Mains was rewarded for good service with the position of Count of Savoie. Humbert's descendants became known as Portiers des Alpes, Gatekeepers of the Alps. For centuries, they acted as independent lords of the northwest Alps. Through astute marriages, they became players on the European stage, forging ties with English, as well as French, royalty. Chambéry was elevated to the counts' capital in the 13th century. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Savoie's lords reached the height of their power. Piedmont became theirs. In 1416, the Holy Roman Emperor gave Count Amédée VII a promotion, making him Savoie's first duke. The family even acquired the most famous shroud in Christendom, supposedly used for Christ's burial.

Savoie and French Forays Louise de Savoie gave birth to a boy who would become bellicose French monarch François I. From his time on, French kings frequently stepped uninvited into Savoie. François I seized control in 1536. The house of Savoie upped sticks to Turin, but did regain control of Savoie in 1559. The other major issue for 16thcentury Savoie was Protestantism, spreading from Geneva, rejecting the corrupt Catholic priesthood for direct communication with God. The Catholic Church in Savoie hit back

Musée d'Art et d'Histoire de Chambéry

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S HISTORY AND TRADITIONS

Office de Tourisme de Chambéry - J. Bouchayer

27/04/2007

with a major charm offensive, led by the seductive St François de Sales. With the Revolution and Napoleon, the French were back, but Savoie's rulers were restored after Waterloo.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINK S: Savoie Mont Blanc and the Savoy Hotel Did you know, the famed Savoy Hotel in London is so named because of its historic connection with the noble house of Savoie! Pierre II of Savoie, uncle of Eleanor of Provence, came to England with his niece to help look after her when she was married to King Henry III. In royal service, Pierre II was granted land in central London where he had a mansion built by the Thames from 1263. Although he died soon after, and the place was later destroyed, the famed hotel built in the late-19th century in the same location between Strand and Thames recalls the Savoyard connection.

Savoie Becom es French While Piedmont joined a unified Italy, traditionally French-speaking Savoie was, by agreement and plebiscite, made part of France in 1860, and divided into two administrative départements, Haute-Savoie to the north, Savoie to the south. Tourism was taking off, aided by the Romantics, pioneering mountaineers,

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Office de Tourisme de Chambéry - J. Bouchayer

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history & traditions

The Elephants' Fountain, Chambéry.

Village festival with traditional Savoyard costumes.

Thomas Cook and Queen Victoria. After the horrors of the First World War, the 1920s saw Savoie joyously host the first-ever Winter Olympics, at Chamonix in 1924. During the Second World Wa r, Savoie was occupied by Italian troops, then the Germans. Resistance groups fought back from the mountain heights.

Savoie in Our Tourist Tim es Times hugely changed after the war. Major new ski resorts sprang up at high altitude. However, new mountain villages were also built respecting traditional forms. Conservation and

ecology were on the agenda. Lac d'Annecy, suffering from pollution, was quickly cleaned up, to become the purest lake in Europe. Savoie followed the Italian example of the Gran Paradiso National Park, creating the adjoining Parc National de la Vanoise. Regional nature parks were later created to protect the authenticity of the Bauges and the Chartreuse ranges. Numerous Réserves Naturelles now protect important ecological areas. While Albertville hosted the Winter Olympics in 1992, recently, many of our mountain resorts have been turning their attention increasingly to the seasons beyond skiing.

Musée d'Art et d'Histoire de Chambéry

La Clementina 1690 - 1761. The children of CharlesEmmanuel III of Savoie.

Savoyard People and Traditions While some rue the passing of old ways, life has vastly improved for many Savoyards in our tourist age. In times past, the majority led a tough mountain existence. Winters were extremely harsh and long, families sharing their lodgings with their animals simply to keep warm…but festivities, and costumes, were colourful. However, many men had to leave in the cold seasons to find work in the French capital and in less mountainous regions, for example working as door-todoor salesmen. A large number of Savoyard boys were sent off to be chimney sweeps. Becoming glamorous mountain guides can seem rather appealing by comparison! Although farming ways have radically changed since the war, some hardy farmers still maintain the gruelling summer ritual of following their herds into the high pastures, staying in rustic chalets d'alpage. More generally across Savoie Mont Blanc, old ways and traditions are showcased in local museums. All around the region you can find places recalling fascinating skills, for example of clock-making in the Arve, wood-working around Thônes, bellmaking at Sévrier, jewellery- and lacemaking in the Tarentaise, cloth-making at the Filature Arpin in Séez, or Opinel knife-making in St-Jean-de-Maurienne.

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lakes

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S GREAT LAK ES

Savoie Mont Blanc boasts of four great lakes: Lac d'Annecy, Lac d'Aiguebelette, Lac du Bourget, and the sensational, southern half of Lac Léman. In warm weather, they're all brilliant for swimming and water sports. Lac Lé amn, or Lake Geneva

OK, so Savoie shares Lac Léman with Switzerland, but most of the southern bank and waters of this, Nesting grebe in the the largest lake in Western Réserve naturelle du Europe, are French. The Lac du Bourget. lakeside villages are exquisite, Yvoire with its waterside castle and striking marina much-prized. Neighbouring Nernier competes in prettiness, a plaque recalling how Mary Shelley penned some of her chilling novel Frankenstein here, on a celebrated holiday she spent by the lake in 1816. Then come rival towns Thonon-les-Bains and Evian-lesBains, both extremely appealing spa and sailing resorts covered in more detail in our City Breaks pages. All the lakeside villages have really appealing beaches. Boat cruises, sailing, swimming and rowing are extremely popular on Lac Léman.

bank, notably in stunning Veyrier-duLac and Talloires. Between these two rises the most famous castle on the lake, the Château de Menthon St-Bernard, a castle to inspire Walt Disney. The western side has familyfriendly resorts, and gentler sandy beaches with equally good mountain views. The splendid city of Annecy is the main point of departure for boat trips on the lake; but from the enchanting village resorts all around, sailing, windsurfing and waterskiing are possible, not forgetting pédalos!

Lac du Bourget Lac du Bourget may be familiar to you for august Aix-les-Bains, its thermal spa resort rising above the modern sailing town beside the waters. Go right round this mountainsurrounded lake to appreciate its wonderful smaller ports and astounding belvederes. With your British sensibilities, you will perhaps sense the presence of Queen Victoria. As to the lords of Savoie, they chose the Abbaye de Hautecombe as their final resting place. It looks like a spiritual ship launching into the lake; you can take a look inside. Lake cruises go as far as the Canal de Savières to the very attractive village of Chanaz.

Lac d'Aiguebelette Lac d'Aiguebelette is a wonderfully well-kept secret of a lake, hidden by small mountains west of Chambéry. It's also literally quieter than our other great lakes, as motor boats aren't allowed on its waters. Fishermen slip out silently on their barques. Rowers strain at their oars; the place even hosted the 1997 world rowing championships. On top of that Aiguebelette claims to have the warmest waters of Savoie's great lakes. Its beaches have excellent facilities, so they're ideal for family holidays.

Lac d'Annecy Lac d'Annecy is often described as the most beautiful lake in France, encircled by stunning mountains, reflected in crystal-clear waters. Some of the finest hotels in France have bagged prime locations along its eastern

Right-hand photo: Fishermen's boats on the calm waters of Lac d’Aiguebelette.

Opposite: Going swimming from one of Lac d’Annecy's supervised beaches.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SPA BREAK S

thermal spas

The Victorians came to love our great lakes as well as our great mountains. No visitor was more illustrious than Queen Vic herself, who first visited the Alps while still in mourning for her beloved Albert, advised by her doctors to try the therapeutic mountain air. She came to particularly appreciate Aix-lesBains. Although she travelled under pseudonyms like the Countess of Kent or Countess of Balmoral, inevitably news spread of her royal presence. She apparently liked to take tea and scones overlooking Lac du Bourget, and is said to have considered buying a home in the area. The fashion was clearly set for British of good breeding to spend time by Savoie's lakes!

Buddha Spa Evian / Tancrede Cadic

a restful green park. Hot mud treatments are a particular feature of StGervais, which has developed its own range of highly regarded skin-care products. Other thermal spas such as Evian and Aix-les-Bains have also created their own ranges.

G. Lansard

Thermal spas (thermes in French) aren't a new fad in Savoie; the Romans loved the therapeutic qualities of the waters of Aix-les-Bains, most famously. In the last few years, lots of our thermal spa resorts have transformed themselves to offer tourist well-being breaks. You can generally sign on for just a day or two, or you can opt for a longer break. Aix-les-Bains in fact has two major thermal spa centres. In the heart of the old town stands the Art Deco façade of the well-established Thermes Nationaux. Up the hillside, the contemporary Thermes Chevalley, with their state-of-the-art facilities, lie in an airy location. Near Chambéry, Challes-les-Eaux lies in a lovely position below the Bauges mountains. Evian-les-Bains and Thonon-les-Bains are neighbouring thermal spa towns on the banks of Lac Léman. Evian has a modern, small-scale spa centre, in a stylish contemporary building. Its speciality is offering mother and baby relaxation courses. Thonon's spa facilities are set in an attractive park close to the lake. Close to Mont Blanc, St-Gervais-lesBains has a sweet thermal spa beside

Brides-les-Bains in the Vanoise is so widely recognized in France for its slimming spa breaks that it has been rebaptized the Village pour Maigrir, or Slimmers' Village! It offers an appealing way of combining a slimming course with the pleasures of the mountains. Nearby, the Thermes at La Léchère have also recently opened their doors to well-being spa breaks. Several of these spa resorts offer the temptations of a casino. That at Evian stands in a prime location along the promenade. The one in Aix-les-Bains is in a 19th-century extravaganza. Bridesles-Bains also has a casino. On a slightly different note, several of Savoie Mont Blanc's top hotels have pampering spa centres of their own, among the most glamorous, those at the Fermes de Marie in Megève and at the recently opened trendy Buddha Spa in Evian's new lakeside Hilton.

Top: Deep relaxation from a massage with hot stones. Bust of Queen Victoria at Aix-les-Bains. Above: The new Hilton Hotel with its Buddha Spa at Evian-les-Bains. Opposite: Indoor pool at the Thermes Chevalley spa, Aix-les-Bains.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINK S: uQeen Victoria Takes to Our aWters

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cities

SAVOIE MONT BLANC CITY BREAK S Many of our most celebrated cities lie in unforgettable locations beside, or close to, our great lakes. Magical Annecy, by general agreement Savoie Mont Blanc's most beautiful city, and one of the most gorgeous in France, is often described as the country's answer to Venice. Its canals reflect beautiful houses in their crystal-clear waters. Along the arcaded streets, the boutiques and restaurants are irresistible, as well as the churches. Annecy's most famous building, the Palais de l'Isle, contains one museum, Annecy castle and Conservatoire d'Art et d'Histoire have several more, one focusing on lacustrine life. Swimming and watersports are available a stone's throw from the centre, or take a cruise boat or pédalo out on the lake.

Cham bréy Charming Chambéry just south of Lac du Bourget defends its premier position as historic capital of Savoie, but

Annecy

The Château d'Annecy and a lake cruising boat on the Thiou, seen from Annecy's Jardins de l'Europe.

also boasts striking contemporary architecture. You can visit the château, administrative headquarters of the region, at certain times; its SainteChapelle once held Christianity's most famous shroud. The generous castle courtyard opens for free evening concerts in summer. The arcaded streets and attractive squares below have tempting cafés and shops, the latter selling many culinary specialities. Some of Chambéry's grandest buildings house excellent art and history museums, and displays on the surrounding mountain ranges. A walk

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINK S: De Boigne and Britain

F. Delairon

27/04/2007

An extraordinary elephant monument stands out in central Chambéry. It doesn't pay homage to Hannibal, but to a local man who gained fame and fortune in India, General Benoît de Boigne. He stands atop Chambéry's column, supported by four pachyderms who look dignified despite lacking posteriors! Winning numerous battles in India, de Boigne then governed huge territories along the Ganges. On his return to Europe, he proved generous to his hometown of Chambéry, paying for hospitals and provisions for the poor. He also spent time in London, buying a sumptuous house on Portland Place. Even granted British citizenship, he had arrived in England with an Indian wife and two children, but neglected them terribly, infatuated by a French émigrée aristocrat on whom he doted, and whom he also married!

away up one slope stands the country house where Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent some of his happiest times.

Aix -les-Bains Aix-les-Bains in its privileged location beside Lac du Bourget has two sides to it. We've already mentioned the renowned thermal spas, Roman remains and glamorous casino up the slope. In the upper town, also stroll round the squares and public gardens, and don't miss the surprising Musée Faure art museum. Down at the lake, Aix-les-Bains' port area has been growing rapidly. In recognition of its exceptional facilities, this became the first inland port in France to be declared a Station Nautique, a major achievement. Aix-les-Bains also has its own golf course, plus the only race course in Savoie.

Evian-les-Bains Evian, beside Lac Léman, has carved out a niche for itself with its luxury hotels, often chosen for honeymoons as well as international conferences. The main French port for cruises across Léman, it has wonderful marinas, and has recently spruced

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Chamonix, capital of Alpine mountaineering, and its adorable church steeple.

G. Lansard

OT Thonon-les-Bains/Paul Pastor

cities

Les Jardins de l'Eau du Pré Curieux at Evian-les-Bains present a series of illustrative water gardens.

G. Place/Francedias.com

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The casino at Aixles-Bains, opened in 1850 by King Victor-Emmanuel II.

Aerial view of the harbour at Thonon-les-Bains.

up its centre behind the lake. Its renowned golf course hosts international tournaments. Evian's cultural scene is thriving, and has been greatly added to recently with the opening of the Palais Lumière. Don't miss the free cable-car ride up the slope, or the solar-powered boat trip to the gardens of Les Jardins du Pré Curieux. Then there are the famous waters to taste, from the free Cachat springs above the glamorous Art Nouveau Buvette Thermale, or by visiting the Amphion Evian water-bottling factory.

Below, we highlight some of our best mountain towns. Cham onix Chamonix is Savoie's most famous mountain town, packed in all seasons with those wishing to worship Mont Blanc. Great cable-car rides help you get closer to its white coat-tails, while the Montenvers train leads up to the Mer de Glace, the best-known glacier in France. In the centre, there are plenty of alpine shops and museum spaces. A magnificent golf course lies towards Argentière.

Thonon-les-Bains Albertville and Conflans Albertville shares the distinction, with Chamonix, of having hosted a Winter Olympics. It has an amusing museum recalling the 1992 games, for which the place was smartened up. Earlier grand buildings in the centre went up for the 19th-century Charles-Albert of Savoie, after whom the town is named. Much of the tourist attention focuses on Conflans, the enchanting historic village just up the hill.

Francedias.com

Thonon, Evian's lake-side neighbour, boasts a longer history, recalled in the town's museum, but also in the Château de Ripaille on the outskirts, surrounded by vineyards! Like Evian, Thonon has a delightful promenade and beaches, but on top of that it has won the prestigious label of Station Nautique for its first-class watersports facilities. The upper town, up a cliff reached by cable car, has really appealing shopping and highly decorated twin churches of distinction.

Moûtiers and St-Jean-de-Maurienne Respective capitals of the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, these are interesting historic cities. So often ignored by skiers rushing to the snow resorts far above, both make good cultural stops. Each has a fine cathedral, among other grand buildings, and is well worth visiting on market day.

Megève Megève is a class act, a very wellpolished big village bursting with luxurious boutiques, hotels and restaurants. Surrounded by lovely walking terrain, it has a prized golf course. Hot-air ballooning is possible from Praz-sur-Arly down the road. Set below the Bauges, Val d'Arly and Beaufortain, Albertville has benefited greatly from its makeover for the 1992 Winter Olympics.

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châteaux & forts

Opposite: The spectacular series of forts known as the Barrière de l'Esseillon was built between 1820 and 1833 to protect Savoie's independence. Ranging over 250m in altitude from top to bottom, it spreads along some 3km. Photo below: Le Château de Ripaille. The castle lay amidst some of the favourite hunting grounds of the counts of Savoie, and became one of their best-loved residences.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S CHATEAUX AND FORTS

The most memorable Savoyard castles stand out around Lac d'Annecy. The Château d'Annecy contains a series of interesting museums. The fascinating Château de Menthon St-Bernard is closely connected to that great saint. Within striking distance, the Château d'Arenthon has been given a daring make-over, turned to contemporary art. On our side of Lac Léman, no castle can outdo the Château d'Yvoire for drama. As to the magnificent Château de Ripaille, it was once home to the dukes of Savoie.

Left-hand photo: The Château de Miolans. Built between 1475 and 1500, this was one of Savoie's most significant castles. Transformed into a prison from 1600, the Marquis de Sade was imprisoned here a time, but managed to escape.

Lake Châteaux

From fairytale châteaux watching over our lakes to forbidding castles guarding strategic valleys, Savoie is peppered with more castles than you might imagine. Below, we concentrate on some you can visit.

Photo below: The Château de Menthon-St-Bernard. This impressive château looks down onto Lac d'Annecy. It's said that it inspired Walt Disney and his illustrations of Sleeping Beauty's castle.

Route Historique des Ducs de Savoie

Valley Châteaux and Forts Northeast of Annecy, the turreted Château de Thorens retains warm family memories of St François de Sales, and of his distant descendant, politician Camillo Cavour, who united Italy. West of Annecy, the imposing Château de Montrottier offers a traditional tour, with fabulous art works, above the Gorges du Fier, another tourist sight. Towards the Rhône, the ruins of the Château de Chaumont merit the climb, but the magnificent Château de Clermont has kept many of its Renaissance charms intact. In the Avant-Pays Savoyard, scour the hills for dramatic castle ruins, while the Château de Montfleury holds an eclectic collection of arms and art.

This tourist route guides you round to a dozen places, both castles and abbeys, intimately associated with the history of Savoie's dynasty.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: Seducing British Romantics Along the Isère and Arc, the Château de Miolans still maintains its impressive guard over the confluence of the two, even if the Marquis de Sade managed to escape when he was imprisoned here. Many later military forts also survive, for example those of Tamié or La Platte along the Isère. As to the Maurienne, its bristles with forts, several of which you can visit.

British Romantics were profoundly moved by their voyages to these parts after the Revolution, and inspired by Savoie. That supreme walker Wordsworth was captivated by the 'wondrous vale of Chamouni'. Byron and Shelley followed, the latter writing of his first sighting of Mont Blanc: 'The immensity of these aerial summits excited…a sentiment of ecstatic wonder not unallied to madness.' As to Mary Shelley, she penned some of the pages of her spine-chilling, ground-breaking novel Frankenstein on Savoie's side of Lac Léman. And Turner depicted some of our great Romantic settings.

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Right-hand photo: St-Pierre-d'Extravache's chapel of St Peter's, Bramans.

religious legacy

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SPIRITU AL SIDE Opposite: A Baroque cherubs.

Cathedrals and Town Churches Annecy is known for its clutch of splendid major churches, Chambéry for its Sainte-Chapelle that once held Christ's shroud, while its cathedral is covered head-to-toe with trompe-l'œils, a speciality of the city. Moûtiers and St-Jean-de-Maurienne have impressive cathedrals. Thonon is another town with particularly interesting churches, one decorated with remarkable murals by Maurice Denis.

It's not just nature's magnificence that speaks to the soul in Savoie. The region also has an uplifting religious legacy.

Below: The cloister of Abondance abbey.

One of the most interesting collections of Gothic churches in Savoie is those of the Haute Maurienne, with astonishing mural cycles - don't miss Lanslebourg, Lanslevillard and Bessans. With the Protestant religious revolution of the 16th century, many Savoyards converted. The Catholic

Remains of Romanesque 11th and 12th century churches are rare in Savoie, but Aime in the Tarentaise has a remarkable one, with period murals. The Romanesque frescoes in the chapel of Allinges castle above Lac Léman are also striking. The Gothic period, going from the mid-12th to the mid-16th century, is much better represented. Monasteries used to fight it out in the Chablais. The ruins of Notre-Dame-d'Aulps now make a peaceful, Romantic picture; Abondance is better preserved, with atmospheric frescoes. Savoie's most famous monastery, still serving as such, is the Abbaye of Hautecombe beside Lac du Bourget. Resting place of the house of Savoy, its church was extravagantly redecorated for the family in the 19th century. Another establishment that still holds a religious community is Tamié abbey, perched high up in the Bauges; the monks are devoted to prayer, work, and cheese-making!

Chem ins du Baroque You can follow the Baroque theme with our Chemins du Baroque, specially marked routes in the Val d'Arly, Beaufortain, Tarentaise and Maurienne. There's also a Sentier du Baroque in the north of the region.

G. Lansard/Francedias.com

Country Churches and Chapels

Church responded with reform across Europe. Accompanying this came vibrant church decoration to seduce the people back to Catholicism. Through the 17th century, Savoie's church interiors were brightly painted, the altarpieces covered with exuberant statues and swarms of pink putti, plus lashings of gilding were added for glitz. Saints were even depicted on church exteriors, while many steeples were given spiked onion tops. Among Savoie Mont Blanc's contemporary churches, the one at Passy near Mont Blanc is outstanding, with works inside by Bonnard, Braque, Chagall and Rouault.

Hautecombe abbey on the banks of Lac du Bourget, resting place of the princes of Savoie.

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animal kingdom

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S ANIMAL K INGDOM (NOT FORGETTING THE COWS!) If ibex are the shy stars of the animal kingdom in Savoie Mont Blanc, don't consider our cows common place. They make a huge contribution to our region.

The animal kindgom - spot the marmot; the Tarine cow; the royal eagle; the ibex; the chamois.

Give our cows the respect they're due! With their clarine bells ringing across the valleys once they're allowed out of their winter dwellings, they bring a wonderfully cheerful note to our Alpine pastures. Through their hard labour, they munch their way through vast meadows to produce exceptionally rich milk for our divinely flavoursome cheeses. It has to be said, they do appear to accomplish their task with some relish. And one great advantage about our cows is that they're much easier to spot than ibex! The two main breeds are ruddy Abondance and tawny Tarines.

Our iW ld Anim als With their huge, curved, serrated horns, the male of the ibex (bouquetin), a kind of mountain goat, make a memorable sight, if you're lucky enough to spot them. Your best chance is in the Vanoise range, one of their favourite

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINK S: Beyond Sham ymLeather Hunters through to the 20th century brought about the near-destruction of Savoie's ibex population, and decimated that of its chamois. The ibex in centuries past was thought to have magical properties, and added to medecines. As to the poor chamois, the British are most familiar with its name in the so-called shammy leathers used to wipe down their cars! The skins of these hardy mountain animals are, it's true, amazingly absorbent. Nowadays, luckily, these magnificent mountain species are protected, shammy leathers made mainly from synthetic textiles. If you're lucky, and patient, you may spot these wonderful creatures where they should be, clambering nimbly around our high ranges.

haunts, even if they remain rare. Almost driven to extinction by hunters, they are now a highly protected species. More common than ibex, the chamois mountain goats are almost as good mountaineers. You can tell them from their horns in the shape of coat hooks. Marmots are very cute, big rodents, out on the slopes between April and September, getting chubbier through the season, fattening up for hibernation. Mountain hares change colour from white to grey in the warmer season. The rare wolf has been sighted on the Vanoise frontier with Italy. The golden eagle is one of the most impressive birds of prey to spot circling above you. A commoner high-altitude bird you may find following you up mountains is the Alpine chough, often confused with a jackdaw. Special rare birds include the black grouse, the ptarmigan and the rock partridge. Particularly colourful feathered friends to stand out on our slopes and cliffs include the red crossbill, the orangebreasted rock thrush, and the deeppink winged wallcreeper. The Alpine eagle owl is the largest European owl. Then there are a host of butterflies to focus on closer to the ground, a glorious sight in summer. © Savoie Mont Blanc Getty Images

Our Com ely Cows

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nature

Picking summer flowers.

One of the most colourful images you may have of Savoie Mont Blanc in summer is of high meadows thick with Alpine flowers, all set against glittering mountain tops. The flowers emerge relatively late of course, but June is a fabulous month to begin discovering them. July and August are good too for high-altitude flora. Parks and Réserves Naturelles in Savoie Mont Blanc Across Savoie Mont Blanc, the Parc National de la Vanoise, the regional nature parks of the Bauges and the Chartreuse, and a large number of Réserves Naturelles have all been created to protect their special environments and zones of exceptional ecological interest, which often contain rare flora and fauna, or may be particularly fragile. There are rules to respect within the Reserves - for example, the picking of plants is strictly forbidden, and dogs are not allowed, as they may disturb the wildlife. Some of the best known of our Réserves Naturelles include the Roc de Chère beside Lac d'Annecy (to

Typical mountain meadows.

Balcony flowers at Le Grand-Bornand in the Aravis.

which you can go on a guided tour, via special cruise), the Sixt Reserve above the Giffre valley, and the Aiguilles Rouges Reserve opposite the Massif du Mont Blanc.

Other remarkable gardens in our region include the Chanousia alpine garden, up at over 2,000m, close to the Petit-St-Bernard pass, and the surprisingly exotic patchwork of the Jardins Secrets at Lagnat, down between Annecy and the Rhône. In Savoie Mont Blanc's towns and villages, great pride is often taken in floral displays. The likes of Annecy, Aix-les-Bains, Evian, Nances and Thonon-les-Bains are renowned for their urban blooms. In fact, Annecy was declared hors concours, beyond competition, as it won the national flower trophy so many times!

Gardens in Savoie Mont Blanc The region's cows seem to do much of the gardening across Savoie Mont Blanc, keeping the meadows under control. But there is the odd delightful more elaborate jardin created by Savoyards. Two of the best lie beside Lac Léman. The walled Jardins des Cinq Sens of the Château d'Yvoire provide enchanting corners appealing to the different senses. As to the Jardins de l'Eau du Pré Curieux beside Evian, with their delightful array of water gardens and clear ecological messages, you reach them via solarpowered boat. Not far south, in the Giffre Valley, visit one of the most astonishing rockeries in Europe, the Jardin Alpin La Jaÿsinia, in the gorgeous village of Samoëns, given as a gift by a local girl made good, after she had married a Paris retail magnate. Quite a present, as it apparently took 250 gardeners three years to complete!

The Jardin des 5 Sens at the Château d'Yvoire beside Lac Léman.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S PARK S, NATU RE RESERVES AND GARDENS

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S CU ISINE The cheese course has to come first when discussing Savoie Mont Blanc's cuisine! The Cheese Board This is a country for those divine, deeply sociable cheese dishes, fondue and raclette. Cheese connoisseurs savour individual appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) fromages. Among the hard cow's cheeses, Beaufort AOC, described by one of France's greatest culinary experts, BrillatSavarin, as 'Prince des Gruyères', has the highest reputation, the beefy village of Beaufort its principal producer, although it can be made over quite a wide radius. A rarer hard cow's cheese, AOC Abondance is made in the Chablais. Tomme de Savoie, another classic, is easier to find. As to Tome des Bauges, it has a distinctive flavour, its own AOC, and is even spelt differently from the rest, with just the one 'm'. The monks at the abbey of Tamié, also in the Bauges, make a decent cheese. AOC Reblochon is a delicious gooier cow's cheese. Seek out traditional Reblochon fermier around Le Grand-

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cuisine

Ageing cellar for Beaufort cheese, known as the 'Prince of Gruyères'.

For the Sweet-Toothed

Bornand and La Clusaz in the Aravis range, the main centre of production. Bleu de Termignon is a rare blue cheese made in the Maurienne. In contrast, vast amounts of Emmental are produced in our region, notably in the Avant-Pays Savoyard. Some goat's and sheep's cheeses can also be found, the Chevrotin goat's cheese awarded AOC status in 2002.

Mountain honey is often delicious, and berries feature frequently in summer tarts. Orchards still produce good summer and autumn fruit. Gateau de Savoie is a type of light sponge cake known across France. Mountain liqueurs can be used to flavour puddings. You'll find excellent pâtissiers and chocolatiers around the region, particularly in the big towns.

Meat and Fish Charcuterie has long been important in the mountain communities. The hams can be excellent. Diots are perhaps the best known of Savoie's tasty sausages made with herbs. Farcement, or farçon, is a special meat dish, the baking tin lined with bacon, then filled with a mix of grated potatoes, dried fruits, and that traditional favourite, cabbage. Lake fish are highly prized. Look for the likes of féra or lavaret and omble chevalier (char) on menus. Lake perch and trout are also popular. Closely linked with Italy, Savoie Mont Blanc has its traditions of polenta, made with corn, and pasta, notably crozets, little crosses added to soups.

Fine Restaurants From traditional rustic cuisine to fabulously refined contemporary creations, Savoie Mont Blanc is renowned for its restaurants. It boasts an impressive 23 Michelin-starred addresses, the most famous being celebrity chef Marc Veyrat's Auberge de l'Eridan at Veyrier-du-Lac beside Lac d'Annecy. © Savoie Mont Blanc G. Lansard

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From left to right: mountain charcuterie; gâteau de Savoie sponge cake; Savoyard fondue; Savoie apples - the region is reputed for its fruit, such as apples, pears and raspberries.

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You may be surprised that mountainous Savoie Mont Blanc produces excellent wines, both white and red, under some 22 appellations d'origine contrôlée! Slopes clearly aren't lacking in these parts; you do though need precise conditions for grape-growing, especially at altitude. All our vineyards stand in staggeringly beautiful locations.

Vermouth de Savoie, a delicious wine flavoured with aromatic herbs, similar to Martini.

Savoie Mont Blanc vines - the Chignin vineyards lie on our wine route, La Route des Vins.

Savoie Mont Blanc's Spirits Mountain herbs were not just used in traditional Savoie medicine, but also in traditional Savoie spirits, some of which claimed to have medicinal properties, among them Corbier, to be visited in St-Jean-de-Maurienne. More widely known is génépi, made from a single mountain plant. Also seek out Chamberizette, a unique dry vermouth flavoured with Alpine strawberries.

Savoie Mont Blanc's oWrld-Fam ous aWter

waters, that of Evian being the bestselling still mineral water in the world. You can visit its bottling factory at neighbouring Amphion if you sign up for a tour at the glamorous Art Nouveau Buvette Thermale in the centre of Evian. Just above this, people queue to top up on mineral water for free at the delightfully decorated Source Cachat. Thonon and Aix-les-Bains count among other centres producing mineral water. One of the world's best known waters comes from Savoie Mont Blanc Evian water.

Savoie Mont Blanc's springs produce some famous mineral Danone Eaux France

Certain of our vineyards grow right up close to Lac Léman, for example around the Château de Ripaille. To join our Rhône wine route, head south of Geneva for Frangy, a first pleasant wine town. Then make for Seyssel right by the great river, in an area producing delightfully fragrant white wines. Passing south, you emerge in the Chautagne, a striking stretch of the Rhône valley lined with vines, Ruffieux the main centre of production, with its large cooperative. Skirt round the northern end of Lac du Bourget to end with the most amazing stretch of all, the Marestel vineyards on the western flanks of the Mont de la Charvaz, the Lucey, Jongieux and Billième wineries standing in superb locations. The section of the Isère valley that has proved conducive to wine-producing stretches between Albertville and Chambéry, on the outer side of the Bauges range. As well as wineries to visit, you'll encounter the odd wine museum along the way. Follow the steep mid-slope trail south. Reaching Montmélian, turn the corner for the most staggeringly beautiful vineyards of the Cluse de Chambéry, lining either bank of the broad valley leading to Savoie's historic capital. Famous wine villages here include Apremont and Chignin.

Savoie Mont Blanc's Vineyards and W ine Routes

Drinking to excess is dangerous for your health; please drink in moderation.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S IW NES, SPIRITS AND A WTERS

Vermouth Dolin

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activities

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S HIGH ENERGY SPORTS AND GENTLER PU RSU ITS

Taking to the Air

Gentler Pursuits

Paragliding (parapente) was born in these parts. It's a great sport to practise over our mountains and lakes. Hang-gliding (deltaplane) is an alternative option to make you feel like you're flying like a bird over Savoie Mont Blanc. For hot-air ballooning, Courchevel, Les Carroz and Praz-surArly (near Megève) have companies offering astounding trips. Plane and helicopter operators can organize unforgettable tourist flights.

Golf in gorgeous surrounds is one big draw. Evian has a reputed club, hosting major international tournaments. There are lovely courses around Lac d'Annecy, at Talloires and Giez, while Aix-les-Bains also has a prestigious club. Incidentally, Aix boasts the one horse-racing track in Savoie Mont Blanc, the Hippodrome de Marlioz. In the mountains, there are fine golf courses at the likes of Chamonix, Courchevel, Megève and Méribel. For hiking and cycling on the flat, try the gorgeous terrain around our great lakes, or along sections of certain valleys. For example, bike beside the Rhône, around Lac d'Aiguebelette, into the vineyards close to Chambéry, or down the west bank of Lac d'Annecy. Possibilities are numerous for fishing in calm lakes or bubbling torrents. Then there are all those beaches for lounging in the sunshine around our extraordinary mountain-surrounded lakes.

Taking on the Mountains Mountaineering is a major pursuit. L'escalade, rock-climbing, is clearly appreciated too. Via ferrata also requires technical skill and courage, with its cables, walkways and ladders. Walking or hiking in the mountains is of course hugely popular - the rewards are immense, the scenery unbeatable in Europe. Remember that cable cars and ski lifts offer an easy way to get up on high in summer. Mountain-biking has become a major draw in recent times, many ski resorts opening their lifts to mountain bikes. You'll also find popular tree-top accrobranches assault courses popping up in woods and forests around Savoie Mont Blanc.

Savoie Mont Blanc is one great outdoor sportsground! Anyone can appreciate activities in stunning surrounds here, such as swimming, tree-top assault courses, golf, paragliding, or hiking.

Summer just as much as in winter, extreme thrills and spills are easy to find across Savoie Mont Blanc. They're possible in spring and autumn also. So too are gentler activities year-round!

For canoeing and white-water-rafting, Bourg-St-Maurice is highly regarded, as is the Dranse near Lac Léman. Out west, stretches of the Rhône and Guiers are well geared to canoeing. Diving is possible in the great lakes. Then there is the full range of water sports delights such as swimming, sailing, rowing and windsurfing on the great lakes.

Taking to the aWters

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC PRACTICAL PAGE

H.M. Julien

TRANSPORT TO SAVOIE MONT BLANC THROUGH THE SEASONS BY AIR Flybe, Flyglobespan and Jet2 fly direct from certain British airports to Chambéry/Aix-lesBains. A far larger number of airlines, as well as those listed above, fly to Geneva, Grenoble and Lyon; they include Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways, bmibaby, easyJet, Ryanair and Swiss International Airlines. BY RAIL Consult Rail Europe (www. raileurope.co.uk) for detailed train information. Example: from Paris to Chambéry by TVG, 2h50 or from Paris to Annecy, 3h30.

Please note that our regional website gives contact details on the very useful network of tourist offices around Savoie Mont Blanc.

You can also order our special annual brochure, Séjours Réservation (in French only at the moment on +33 479 85 01 09). © Savoie Mont Blanc Getty Images

+33 820 00 73 74 [the price of an ordinary call to France from Britain] or by email.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC ACCOMMODATION THROUGH THE SEASONS You'll find plenty of information on our website regarding holiday accommodation of all sorts.

BY CAR Coming down eastern France from Britain and the Channel ferries, you can use the A6 or A39 motorways to head rapidly towards Savoie Mont Blanc, branching onto either the A40, A43, or A49 to reach us.

TOURIST INFORMATION ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC For all manner of tourist information on Savoie Mont Blanc, you can find a great deal of information on our website, with English version, on www.savoie-mont-blanc.com Or contact us by phone on

If you wish to hire a holiday home, or gîte, there are two French national associations that offer such accommodation, Gîtes de France ( www.gitesde-f r a n c e - s a v o i e . c o m a n d www.gites-de-france-hautesavoie.com) and Clévacances ( w w w. c l e v a c a n c e s . c o m ) . Alternatively, seek out specialist companies. Tourist offices can also help you in your request (see list on our website).

www.savoie-mont-blanc.com

+33 820 00 73 74 [the price of an ordinary call to France from Britain]

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