Make it Today!
ISSUE 13 APRIL 2 016
Stitch your Style
LOVE IT
MAKE IT
DO IT
BUY IT
READ IT
LOVE YOUR FREE PATTERNS FROM
&
Easy for beginners
quick-stitch
KIMONO
STYLE FOR SUMMER WITH OUR CLASSIC WRAP
BONL-UOSUT
PUL RN PATTE
AND PATCH WITH CONFIDENCE
MAKE IT TODAY
POCKET PERFECTION! GATHER, PLEAT
ISSUE 13 | £7.99 APRIL 16
Plus: Liberty Leisurewear . Pencil Skirts . Vintage Workshops . Master Buttonholes
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Contents: dressmaking RELAX AND READ
ISSUE 13
YOUR KIT MAKES
6 NEWS All you need to know about what’s happening in the world of sewing
13 RETRO KIMONO A stylish, light layer that’s perfect for spring evenings
42 GYPSY TOP A chic, light top for the weekend that looks so pretty paired with jeans
27 SEMI-FITTED DRESSES Stitch a sweet spring frock with the neckline and hemline to suit you
50 HAIR SLIDE Get creative with embroidery to create this cute accessory
EXTRA PROJECTS
52 COVERED COAT HANGERS Beautify your wardrobe with floral vintage-style fabric hangers
54 THE BOOKS In need of some inspiration? Take a look at these creative reads
REGULARS
IN EVERY ISSUE
20 DRAPE TOP This simple-to-sew top is comfortable, stylish and a dream to wear 22 LIBERTY PYJAMAS Treat yourself by stitching some pretty PJs for lazy evenings 24 PENCIL SKIRT A wardrobe staple that will take you from day to night with ease 32 TREASURE HUNT BAG Create this adorable tote for little ones to stash their treasures in
11 ESSENTIAL KIT Bring precision to your sewing kit with our pick of cutting tools
16 THE PERFECT VINTAGE We’ve rounded up just a few of the vintage workshops taking place across the country 19 INTERVIEW: STEPHEN FRASER Co-founder of Spoonflower talks designing fabric and offers his tips
3 Welcome 5 Inside your kit 26 Giveaways 58 Coming next issue 31 + 60 Subscriptions 61 The Practicals
38 MAXI DRESS SHOWCASE Find out how to go long and lovely with a pretty maxi dress
Make it
SUBSCRIBE NOW
45 FABRIC LOVE Spring themes and cute animals are in the air with our adorable collection
Get money off a three-issue trial. Turn to pages 31 and 60 for details
48 PENCIL SKIRT SHOWCASE Reinvent a fashion classic with our top pattern picks
Make it Today! 4
Today!
ISSUE 13 APR IL
Stitch your Style
LOVE IT
MAKE IT
DO IT
BUY IT
2016
READ IT
LOVE YOUR FREE PATTERNS FROM
&
Easy for beginners
quick-stitch
KIMONO
36 OFF THE HOOK Add some crafty chic to your wardrobe with our guide to crochet trims for garments 55 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Read about the intriguing career of the queen of British fashion
STYLE FOR SUMMER WITH OUR CLASSIC WRAP
US BON-OUT
PULL PATTERN
POCKET PERFECTION! GATHER, PLEAT AND PATCH WITH CONFIDENCE
Plus: Liberty Leisurewear . Pencil Skirts .
ISSUE 13 | £7.99 APRIL 16
MAKE IT TODAY
40 CAPRI TROUSERS The perfect pair of spring trews to add to your wardrobe
8 NOTICEBOARD We share what you’ve been making at home, and spill the beans about your sewing confessions
Vintage Workshops . Master Buttonholes
66 SEWING DETECTIVE Libby Rose shares her top tips on how to make a buttonhole
Make it Today!
YOUR DESIGNER PATTERNS
TURN TO P61 FOR ALL THE DRESSMAKING TIPS YOU’LL NEED TO GET STITCHING TODAY!
ILLUSTRATED INSTRUCTIONS AND SEWING GUIDES INSIDE
Stitch a classic spring frock
Create six kimono styles
EACH ENVELOPE INCLUDES AUTHENTIC DRESSMAKER’S TISSUE PATTERN PAPER DON’T MISS NEXT ISSUE!
Two exclusive designer patterns for you to make!
ON SALE 13TH MAY 2016 Find out more on page 58
What’s your size?
If you would like a larger size, an alternative version of B6176 is available (16-26). Call Butterick at 0344 880 1263, quoting voucher code MIT6176 to redeem your replacement pattern at half price (£4). Offer valid until 5th May. K4097 includes all sizes available in the main envelope.
THIS MONTH...
make it, buY it, love it
The latest stitchy news, treats and dressmaking delights!
HI HO INTERLININGS!
Every dressmaking project can have the perfect finishing touches with Vlieseline, formerly Vilene, the company synonymous with high-quality interlinings. Serving customers worldwide for 60 years, Vlieseline is now showing off a brandnew name, but the onus is still on keeping avid dressmakers, tailors and stitchers happy with an extensive range of woven, fusible and sew-in interlinings, battings, tapes and stabilisers. vlieseline.com
COMMUNITY spirit
Great British Sewing Bee judge Patrick Grant is on a mission to rejuvenate the UK’s textile industry with his ‘Community Clothing’ initiative. Here’s hoping his fourweek Kickstarter campaign will raise the £100K necessary to fund the startup for a new enterprise devoted to creating jobs and restoring pride in homegrown tailoring talents. Patrick says, “Everyone in Britain should be able to afford quality British-made clothes.” Find out how this thrilling social clothing project gets on! communityclothing.co.uk
Make it Today! 6
BOXING TILDA
Fun, feminine and flowery – the fabulous world of Tilda creator Tone Finnanger, beautifully realised stunning fabrics for dreamers everywhere, now has a few extras. These precious notepads in pinks, oranges and aquas offer plenty of scope to plot your next project, while the cute boxes provide the perfect hiding place for all those exquisite fabs. ilovetilda.com
CREATOR’S CORNER Vintage Detail writers Jeffrey Mayer and Basia Szkutnicka discuss their passion!
MY LOVELY MILLIE
Eager to embrace the sweet vibrant hues of springtimes, Art Gallery Fabrics presents Millie Fleur, a pretty range of sunflower golds and buttercup yellows. Inspired by designer Bari J’s grandmother Millie, this is a collection suffused with both the energy and potential of a sunshine day. liveartgalleryfabrics.com
DON’T FORGET THE DETAILS!
Are you ready for your close-up? Vintage lovers are guaranteed a delirious fix of treasured fashion treats in this sumptuous array of detailed shots capturing the intricacies and precious stories of outfits collated across each decade of the 20th Century. This fascinating reference is indispensable for design students and professionals alike. £35, laurenceking.com
Your book aims to inspire new dressmakers; how easy is it to replicate the looks? J: The beauty of our book is the large number of internal photos that assist a designer, dressmaker or pattern cutter in the ‘how to’ of the detail. We wanted the secrets of each of the techniques to be obvious through our photographic analysis. The intent was to demystify some of these beautiful lost techniques and make them relevant again.
CRAFTY LIKE A FOX For those of you feeling foxy, there are a couple of crafty fayres you won’t want to miss. Designers and makers will be bringing their eclectic inspirations to all manner of fluffy stitchy events at two Crafty Fox Markets at The Geffrye Museum in Hoxton and The Dogstar in Brixton, on the 9th-10th April and 28th-29th May respectively. craftyfoxmarket.co.uk
What were your favourite genres to represent visually? B: I adore the late 1920s and 1940s, and I have a penchant for little black dresses with cream details. To me, they evoke the era of 1920s Paris, Berlin or Chicago. My favourite chapter in the book is the construction one; Jeff and I were really excited to share this ‘hidden’ information, as we know it can both inform and excite fashion designers as well as makers.
CATH KIDSTON FOR SPRING
Spring is well and truly upon us, and that can mean only one thing: the new season collection from Cath Kidston, replete with a distinctive and uplifting selection of rose prints and ditsies to brighten up your palette. cathkidston.com
CUT ABOVE THE REST Sharpen up on your sewing skills the easy way with the help of the universal scissor sharpener from Fiskars. You can return your snippers to their orginal condition in moments, whether you’re a right- or left-hander. Say goodbye to blunt blades in a slice! fiskars.co.uk
SEE OUR ESSENTIAL KIT ON PAGE 11 FOR THE FULL RUN-DOWN ON CUTTING TOOLS
NEWS 7
Which designers inspire you in your fashion pursuits? B: Elsa Schiaparelli, for her courage, humour and playfulness. I’ve always said that had we met, we would have been the best of friends: we share a love of the fantastical. Also, Maison Martin Margiela, whose approach to design was intellectual, questioning and confrontational; he designed things that had never been designed before. Both were true innovators. Do you think an understanding of an outfit’s story is important? J: Although many of the garments have wonderful stories, we decided the main purpose of the book is to inspire contemporary designers with the actual architecture of the clothing. Several garments were worn by film actresses but, by not knowing this information, it is possible to be inspired by the subtle seaming and impressive handiwork rather than the provenance. Basia will answer reader questions via her Facebook: Basia Szkutnicka and Instagram: Basia_szkutnicka
PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A MAGICAL WEEKEND OF GYPSY BLISS
SWITCH UP THE HIPPY VIBE WITH A
USE OU EXCLUS R PATTER IVE N OUT TO PULLYOUR OMAKE WN!
GET THE LOOK! SHOES £24.99, TK MAXX (01923 473561); TROUSERS AND NECKLACE FROM A SELECTION AT H&M (0344 736 9000)
GYPSY blouse
to stretch your shirring skills Creating something casual and cute can still be technically satisfying, and this issue is your chance to get stuck in with shirring. Amanda Walker’s lovely gypsy blouse, which can be worn either on or off the shoulder, deploys the technique to create a versatile fitted waist that’s guaranteed to give you a snug fit, whatever your shape. With just two pattern pieces and the opportunity to work with the easy charms of Broderie Anglaise and ribbon work, this sweet make is your ticket to a groovy fashion trip!
ESSENTIAL KIT
Broderie Anglaise, 1.7m Satin ribbon, 4m x 5mm Reel of shirring elastic Matching thread MEASUREMENT: Custom sized
Find guide online makeit today.co.uk
Make it Today! 42
PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A DAY OF EASY SPRINGTIME STITCHING
ROCK THE CROP WITH
CAPRI TROUSERS
for an easy slice of timeless style Pioneered by designer Sonja de Lennart, this popular 1950s trouser style beloved of Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn lends itself naturally to all kinds of modern looks, made up in cotton for the ultimate in comfort and breathability. The cropped length makes it manageable for beginners, plus you’ll be making them to your own measurements so they’ll be the perfect fit. And for a truly modern twist on the classic, why not make in denim for maximum stretch?
ESSENTIAL KIT
Fabric, lightweight, 1m x 150cm Matching thread Interlining, 1m x 20cm Fastening, hook and bar Zip, concealed, 21cm
Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk
CUTTING GUIDE:
MAIN FABRIC Waistband: Cut one Trouser front: Cut one pair Trouser back: Cut one pair INTERLINING Waistband: Cut one
Make it Today! 40
CAPRI TROUSERS
1 Cut out the pieces using the pattern at makeittoday.co.uk. Neaten the trouser pieces, omitting the waist and base, using overlocking or zigzag stitches around the edges. With right sides facing, match the two front trouser pieces and pin. Sew from the crotch to the waist edge. Repeat on the back trouser pieces. 2 With wrong side uppermost, fold the fabric to align the two notches for each dart and pin in place. Machine-stitch to secure the dart. Repeat where indicated on the pattern to create four darts on the front and four on the back. Press all darts towards the centre of the garment. 3 Align the top of the side seams and the hems of the front and back trouser sections, with right sides facing. Pin, then sew the right-hand side seam. When working the left-hand side seam, join as far as the zip notch marker. Machinestitch to join both inside leg seams. 4 Using a zipper or concealed zipper foot, prepare the side zip section by folding and pressing the seam allowance along the edges of the side opening. Turn the garment inside out so right sides are facing, open out the seam allowance and place the opened zip face
PROJECT BY BELLE & BOO | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A FEW PRETTY HOURS OF CHILDLIKE DELIGHT
TREAT YOUR LITTLE ONES TO A
TREASURE HUNT BAG to brighten those kiddie playtimes Bring a bit of sunshine cheer into your weekend with a cute and crafty make for your intrepid young explorers! This lovely bag is sure to come in handy for all those summer playtimes in the garden spent investigating the hedgerows and furrows. Belle & Boo show you how to flex your bias binding skills and work with calico to create a miniature treat that will allow your little wanderers to get truly carried away!
ESSENTIAL KIT
Two cotton fabrics, co-ordinating prints, 60 x 30cm Calico, 60 x 30cm Bias binding, 2cm wide, 120cm Woven cotton tape, 2cm wide, 60cm Matching thread Basic sewing kit Wooden eggs Acrylic craft paints Paintbrushes MEASUREMENTS 14cm x 12cm x 10cm
Make it Today! 32
PROJECT BY TORIE JAYNE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A PLAYFUL WEEKEND FOR TWO
CHOOSE THE LOOK THAT SUITS YOU, WITH THIS
SEMI-FITTED DRESS perfect for every occasion
Decisions, decisions! This month’s dress pattern is a pretty figure-flattering make for those who just can’t make their minds up. Both versions of Kwik Sew’s K4097 come with a cute fitted bodice and full skirt with doubleinverted pleats, but that’s where the similarities end. The design comes in two lengths to satisfy taller or more petite frames, and cap sleeve or sleeveless, plus a choice of neckline for those who can’t decide between chic bateau and the ever-reliable V-neck: you even get the option of side pockets. Neat and tailored for evening wear, or long and flowing for a more relaxed summer daytime look, these designs are up to the minute yet timeless, and here we’ve used stretch cotton sateen for maximum yield while sewing. Double the style, double the smiles – for a perfect fit every time.
SEMI-FITTED DRESS 27
PROJECT BY JAYNE CORDLE | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A CHILLED WEEKEND OF SILKY DELIGHTS
UPDATE A COOL CLASSIC WITH A
retro KIMONO to flatter all shapes and moods
Fusing oriental mysticism and modernday flair, the kimono is experiencing something of a renaissance on the high street – so why stop there? Our love affair with all things retro gets a delightfully floral fix with Butterick’s B6176 pattern, featuring six dynamic front and hem variations to suit all manner of tastes, events and figures. Indulge in a spot of fringing for extra boho potential, or stitch some pockets for an easy alternative to your overworn cardi. Coupled with a smart tight skirt and heels or with jeans for a shot of silky inspiration, this gorgeous slinky number is the perfect accent to your springtime dreams.
RETRO KIMONO 13
PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A DAY OF PERFECT PENCIL INSPIRATION
FROM WORK WEAR TO EVENING WEAR, MAKE A
pencil skirt
that’s simple, versatile and stylish A sophisticated pencil skirt is a must-have wardrobe staple, and thanks to this simple-to-sew pattern by Amanda Walker, now you can stitch one to suit every occasion. Create a real statement with a bold fabric design, a subtle sophisticated print like we have used, or a plain-coloured jersey material for the ultimate wardrobe essential.
ESSENTIAL KIT
3 To insert a concealed zip, fold and press the seam allowance along the side opening. Open out the seam allowance and, with the right side of the fabric facing up, place the opened zip face down. Match the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin in place.
Stretch cotton, 1m Fusible interfacing Concealed zip, 9in Hook and bar
Find pattern online makeit today.co.uk SIZE GUIDE Finished Small Medium Large measurements Waist
68cm 72cm
87cm
Hip
91cm 95cm
101cm
Use a 1.5cm seam allowance, except for the centre front seam which is 2cm
PENCIL SKIRT 1 Visit makeittoday.co.uk to download and print the pattern. Cut the pieces from fabric and neaten the side and centre front seams using overlocking or zigzag stitching. Sew the darts at the top of the front pieces and press them towards the centre front. Repeat on the back and press the darts to the centre. 2 Stitch the centre front seams right sides together from the waist edge, as far as the notch for the split. Back-tack to reinforce. Sew the front and back skirts right sides together at the side seams. On the left side seam, stitch as far as the notch, leaving a gap at the top for the zip. Press all the seams open.
4 If you are using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove and, as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside. If you are using a normal zipper foot, uncurl the teeth with your fingertips. Stitch to the top of the side seam, backstitch, then sew the other side of the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close. 5 Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband using a pressing cloth and plenty of steam. Pin the waistband to the top edge of the skirt with right sides facing. Pin in place leaving the hook and bar extension protruding from the back top side seam. Fold the waistband in half lengthways, right sides together, then stitch the ends. 6 Turn the waistband out, and press the waist seam allowances up into the waistband. Then turn in the 1.5cm seam allowance on the inside and match the folded line to the stitching line. Pin, then hand slip-stitch in place. Add a hook and bar on either side of the waistband tab. 7 Overlock or zigzag stitch the hem of the skirt, then fold under 4cm and press. Hand-stitch the hem from the corner of the front split with a hemming stitch, finishing on the opposite side of the slit.
Make it Today! 24
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