RANKINGS
THE GREAT BRUTS The 10 best dry kosher sparklers, plus five budget wines affordable for any occasion By Gamliel Kronemer
D
uring the past few years one of the major news stories—and one that will have long repercussions—has been Brexit, the United Kingdom’s exit from the European Union, which was completed at the end of last year. Brexit has brought to light a number of lingering conflicts between Britain and its neighbors, and while many of these conflicts will likely be ameliorated in the years to come, one of the oldest of conflicts is likely to linger: the disagreement between the French and British over how to best enjoy that great sparkling wine from the north of France, Champagne. The French like their Champagne young and fresh, whereas the British prefer to drink it old. The French believe that Champagne is a truly versatile wine that can be a great accompaniment to virtually any dish, whereas the Brits generally think that Champagne is best when served without any food. Finally, the French like to drink Champagne morning, noon and night, as often as they can afford it, whereas the British prefer to save Champagne for special occasions, or as English novelist Evelyn Waugh once advocated, Champagne “is a wine for (frequent) occasional use.” The one point both the British and French do agree on is that Champagne is a truly splendid wine. They are right. Champagne is made from a blend of two
black grapes, pinot noir and pinot meunier; and one white grape, chardonnay. After fermenting separately, wines from the different varietals—and often from different vintages—are blended together and bottled with additional yeast. Thereafter they are aged in their bottles for at least 15 months before the lees (sediment formed during fermentation and aging) are removed, a little additional wine and sugar (known as the dosage) are added, and a final cork is put in each bottle. This Champagne formula has been copied frequently, and as a result, good, or even great, Champagnelike wines are now available from all over the world. Fortunately, this is also true in the kosher wine world. Several good or great kosher sparkling wines are now available, including an increasing number from some of France’s world-famous Champagne houses. So when The Jewish Link asked me to come up with a type of wine to review for their inaugural Wine Guide, I asked if I could do a review of kosher bruts. Brut is the term that the French use to describe dry sparkling wine. (While sweet sparkling wines can be very enjoyable, comparing them to their dry cousins is like comparing apples to oranges.) Over a period of a few days, in a series of blind tastings, I evaluated several, all of which were quaffable. Several were good, and a few achieved true excellence.
THE TOP 10: 1. Laurent-Perrier, La Cuvée Brut, Champagne, NV [Kosher Edition]: Consistently one of the best kosher Champagnes on the market (I first reviewed it in 2005 and have tasted it several times since), this rich, straw-colored, chardonnay-driven champagne is crisp, dry and ever-so-enjoyable. Look for a nose of apples, quince, Meyer lemons and wildflowers, with a light whiff of cinnamon, all playing against a yeasty, creamy background. The flavor has elements of lemons, apples, quince, Seville oranges and cream, with wet gravel showing towards the back of the palate. Well structured with bracing acidity that cuts through the rich creaminess, this is a truly delightful wine. Score: A. $75.
34 JLINK WINE GUIDE •
MARCH 2021 / NISAN 5781
