Island Dreams Come True Vistas of jewelled blue blending with the shimmering sky as far as the eyes can see. Soothing white sands cushioning your feet. Washing away your cares in crystal-clear lagoons. All while being surrounded by one of the most breathtaking house reefs in the Maldives. At Robinson Club Maldives, your dream beach escape in the serene waters of the Gaafu Alif Atoll comes to life. visit www.robinson-maldives.com Robinson Club Maldives
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PARADISE IS YOURS AT ROBINSON A haven of dazzling coral reefs, white sands and endless blue sky. On the turquoise waters of Gaafu Alif Atoll, 20 minutes from Kaadedhoo Airport, on Funamadua Island, awaits your own piece of paradise at Robinson Club Maldives. Splendour is for the taking by the shoreline or over water, with palatial villas, bungalows, and suites, set to the backdrop of magnificent vistas bursting with colour. Steps away from perfect white sands, nature at your doorstep, or your own living aquarium beneath your feet. Robinson accommodation fulfils – and exceeds – every expectation. A playground of fun, adventure and relaxation, Robinson Club Maldives offers a range of diversions for every taste. Explore the incredible underwater world with Robinson Dive Centre, or catch the waves on a water-ski. Learn how to surf, sail or paraglide, or take a more leisurely adventure into the nearby islets and lagoons on our glass-bottomed kayaks. For the ultimate relaxation experience, rejuvenate your body and soul at the Duniye Wellfit Spa, sunbathe by the pool, or watch the sunset on your outdoor day bed, the warm ocean breeze grazing your sun-kissed cheeks. In the evening, eat scrumptious cuisines and sip on tropical cocktails as you soak up the 360-degree panoramas, before taking to the sands for a live reggae show. A sanctuary of contemporary luxury, relaxation, and adventure, all rolled into one: there’s always more to see and always more to discover at Robinson Club Maldives.
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MALDIVES NIGHT FISHING
HOW IT BEGAN AND WHERE ITS GOING
MYSORE: A CITY OF STUNNING SITES
JUMEIRAH DHEVANAFUSHI
From colourful markets to glittering palaces, mysore is a treasure trove of interesting sites. Aishath Shazra explores the city, which attracts thousands of visitors each year. .
On a visit to the Maldives, Royston Ellis discovers a new word meaning “unique island.” It’s Dhevanafushi, the name of the first resort of the dubaibased Jumeirah group to open in the islands.
One Maldivian resort is working hard to bring tourists and locals together, before it’s too late.
Adrian Neville charts the journey of Maldivian tourism industry from its inception to present day
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FIVE WAYS TO SPEND YOUR DAY AT SHANGRI-LA’S VILLINGILI RESORT & SPA
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A YEAR IN PARADISE
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HARUBEE: REVIVING TRADITIONAL MUSIC
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SDM: PIONEER OF THE MALDIVES SOUVENIR
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FROM THRONE TO JUNGLE
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MALDIVES ON THE WORLD WIDE WEB
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BUY MALDIVIAN
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WRITERS
Adrian Neville Aishath Shazra Hilath Rasheed John Lancelot Kaneeru Abdul Raheem Mamduh Waheed Nick Walton Royston Ellis Thomas Pickard
PHOTOGRAPHY & PAINTINGS
Ahmed Ansam Ahmed Zahid Aishath Shazra Guy Stevens Harubee Ismail Moosa Fikry Jumeirah Dhevanafushi Nats Santivipanon Naushad Waheed Nick Walton Official Residence of the President, Male’ Sarudhaaru Dhon Manik Shaahina Ali Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives Thomas Pickard Traders Hotel Male, Maldives
TRANSLATIONS Hilath Rasheed
PUBLISHER
Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd (for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd) M. Bageechaa Keneree Magu Male’ 20191 Republic of Maldives vara@bynd.co.uk
MANAGING EDITOR David Kotthoff
ADVERTISING
DISCLAIMER
VARA is published twice a year by Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd for Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the prior written permission of the publisher. Although every effort is made to ensure information is correct at press time, Beyond Hospitality Pvt Ltd and Island Aviation Services Pvt Ltd do not represent or endorse the accuracy or reliability of any of the information, content or advertisements contained in this magazine, nor the quality of any products, information or other materials displayed, purchased, or obtained by you as a result of an advertisement or any other information or offer in or in connection with this magazine and expressly disclaim liability for errors and omissions in any and all contents.
Hassan Hisham
DESIGN & LAYOUT Hawwa Sithna Ahmed Ansam
Novelty Printers & Publishers Pvt Ltd
64 SWIMMING WITH SHARKS
An underwater encounter with a shark is one of the most electrifying and unforgettable experiences you can have in the Maldives says John Lancelot.
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ONE MALDIVIAN RESORT IS WORKING HARD TO BRING TOURISTS AND LOCALS TOGETHER, BEFORE IT’S TOO LATE.
NIGHT FISHING I
t’s dusk, that magical transition time between blue sky and black night and I’m about to do something few tourists ever get to experience. With a rumbling gurgle from the engine and a bellow from the helmsman, a traditional dhoni pauses where I stand at the end of a chipped concrete jetty just long enough for me to leap aboard and join its crew of ten weather beaten fishermen for a night’s catch. It’s an ancient scene, one which plays out every night of the year, here in the middle of the Indian Ocean. This is the Maldives, the Indian Ocean’s poster boy, a nation of idyllic islands and atolls cast like so many marbles across satin seas. It’s a country famed for its luxury resorts and turquoise lagoons; and one where tourism competes with fishing as the bread winning industry. But traditionally, culture, policy and geography have kept the people of the Maldives and the thousands of tourists who visit each year at arm’s length. The mostlyMuslim population of the Maldives live in the bustling island capital of Malé or on village islands fringed by coconut palms and coral reefs, and the closest most visitors get to a real Maldivian is the odd waiter or resort bell boy.
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THEIR GAUGE ON THE WORLD AROUND THEM IS IN THE SIZE OF TUNA WHEN THEIR FINS TURN CANARY YELLOW, HOW MANY MANTA RAYS THEY SPY IN THE SHALLOWS OF DESERTED LAGOONS, AND HOW OFTEN THE FUEL BARGE VISITS THEIR ISOLATED FISHING ISLAND. IGNORANCE, IT SEEMS, IS BLISSFUL.
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Now with rising seas and the threat of global warming, the Maldives need travellers to not only visit but to also understand their plight and their vulnerability. Resorts like the lavish new Anantara Kihavah, the newest luxury hideaway to open in the northern Maldives, are trying to bridge the gap between tourist and local, and authentic night fishing experiences like this – with nary a chilled hand towel or pina colada in sight – are an important part of that effort.
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It’s a fairly simple operation. The boat, with its traditional flaring stern, dips and bobs as waves pass beneath only to fling themselves across the reefs of the local island of Kudarikilu. The crew, their tarnished leather faces and square jaws testament to the Maldives’ Arabic merchant roots, slip on gardening gloves and dish out lines while a man tasked with handing out bait dips a small net into a central tank filled with what looks like glistening gold fish. The live fish are unceremoniously
skewered on hooks and the weighted lines are cast overboard. One of the most green forward nations in the world, only sustainable fishing methods are allowed in the Maldives. For me this gives instant street cred to the crew of the tuna boats, their catches sometimes weighing over 100kg. But I quickly learn that my weathered crew and I are at no disadvantage as lines run taunt and the sea harvest begins with calls and cries in
the sing-song Maldivian dialect. Fish after fish is pulled, twisting and dancing from the lapping seas, all varieties, from vibrant reef fish through to tuna and snapper. The tone changes distinctly every time
someone nets a barracuda; with its rows of sharp teeth, these glistening dobermans of the sea are treated with a little more respect by the wizened anglers.
After 30 minutes we draw in the lines again and the helmsman points us away from the islands and further out to sea. All eyes on the boat look to the horizon; towering columns of clouds are forming in the distance and I can tell the crew are judging how long they have until a tropical squall reaches the lagoon. Darkness continues to descend across the Indian Ocean like a veil but from the activity on the boat I can tell we’re just getting started.
We slow and the men call “gurang” to the Overseer of Gold Fish and are rewarded with flapping, wriggling bait. Handfuls of the bait fish are also flung into the air, the tiny fish flying a wide arc before landing in the water. I’m told this is to attract more fish from the ocean’s depths and it works because no sooner have I dropped a line overboard and left the weight to free fall through the darkening water, than I get a tug.
It’s slow yet frantic work; the thin line in my hand is getting harder and harder to see so I’m doing my ‘fishing’ by touch, pulling in the line as another crew member winds it again in neat coils at our bare feet. I can see a silvery shimmer dancing in the depths below as I pull the line in, while behind me a growing number of fat fresh fish swim in a tank of sea water, evidence of the sea’s bounty.
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Many fishermen in the Maldives still use the moon and stars to navigate; there is no GPS on our boat. In fact the only thing electrical seems to be a red-stained bulb and a small radio which quietly plays Southern Indian pop. Little has changed from the days when these men’s grandfathers fished the same reefs and gazed upon the same stars. They know little of rising seas and global warming; their gauge on the world around them is in the size of tuna when their fins turn canary yellow, how many manta rays they spy in the shallows of deserted lagoons, and how often the fuel barge visits their isolated fishing island. Ignorance, it seems, is blissful.
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Finally my fish and I meet and he breaks the surface, twisting and wriggling in the air as I guide the line to the deck. Ibrahim, the crewman helping me, beams with a mix of wonder and curiosity – it seems
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this foreigner is luckier than most. The crew laugh as they draw in their lines, fresh catch splashing in the tanks below. With a flash of Ibrahim’s dark calloused hands the hook is out, my fish joins the others in the tank and as darkness takes over the sky and our time at sea drawing to a close, another live gold fish is sent to the depths below. It’s an ancient scene, and one I hope that never changes.
Nick Walton is an experienced travel journalist who has run travel and lifestyle magazines in Asia, New Zealand and Australia for over ten years, including a two-year stint as Travel Editor for the South China Morning Post. He loves to travel throughout Asia and beyond, but also loves coming back to his adopted home of Hong Kong. Photos by: Nick Walton, Ahmed Zahid
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FIVE WAYS
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TO SPEND YOUR DAY AT SHANGRI-LA’S VILLINGILI RESORT AND SPA, MALDIVES
LOCATED ON A THREE KILOMETER LONG UNSPOILED ISLAND WITH SIX KILOMETERS OF PICTURESQUE COASTLINE, 12 HECTARE OF LUSH VEGETATION, THREE NATURAL LAGOONS AND NEARLY TWO KILOMETERS OF WHITE SANDY BEACH, THERE IS PLENTY OF WAYS TO SPEND YOUR DAY AT SHANGRI-LA’ S VILLINGILI RESORT AND SPA. FROM A DAY PACKED WITH ADVENTURES TO A MOST RELAXING DAY, YOU DECIDE!
A SEAFARING DAY
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learly no trip to Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa would be complete without venturing out into the heavenly waters surrounding the resort. An early morning big game fishing trip or an afternoon spent exploring the underwater treasure trove surrounding is quite simply not to be missed, while a dolphin cruise or a private dinner on the resort’s 21-metre yacht – featuring your catch of the morning – would be a sublime end to a day spent on and in water.
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EXPERIENCE AND SURRENDER TO AN INVIGORATING MOTHER OF PEARL BODY POLISH FOLLOWED BY A WARM SOAK IN AN OCEAN BATH AND A COWRIE SHELL MASSAGE
A RELAXING DAY
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This is the ultimate option in pampering, unwinding and regeneration. After a long lie in, wake up to a mouth-watering breakfast served on your villa’s terrace, to the accompaniment of serene ocean views and the gentle serenade of tropical fauna and gently lapping waves. Laze in
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a hammock beneath a shady palm and get lost in the pages of a favourite novel before taking a cool, soothing dip in the sea. Book yourself in at CHI, The Spa for a signature Kandu Boli Experience and surrender to an invigorating Mother of Pearl body polish followed by a warm soak in an ocean bath
and a Cowrie Shell Massage. Finish with a facial and delight in the sensations of a head massage with warm coconut oil drizzled through your hair. If you have any energy left, take a sunset cocktail cruise for the mellowest ending to the laziest of days.
AN ADVENTUROUS DAY
Get on board a speed boat with one of our local guides and head for the neighbouring islands for a day discovering the local beauty spots, cafĂŠs and craft shops. Historical sites dating to British presence on the island during World War II add a fascinating
dimension to this idyllic tropical paradise, while sleepy villages will provide a taste of daily life on Addu Atoll. The flat roads make Gan and numerous adjacent islands ideally suited for exploration by bike for those of you looking for a slightly more
energetic way to familiarize yourselves with Maldivian culture. Clearly, an exotic safari-themed dinner in the heart of the resort’s lush jungle is the only proper way to conclude a day filled with discovery and adventure!
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A ROMANTIC DAY
At Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa romance fills the air; whatever the excuse or the occasion the couples among you can spend a day dedicated to pure indulgence. Have a peaceful stroll along the nature trails to witness the extraordinary birdlife and fauna that inhabit Villingili. An extravagant afternoon could be spent at CHI, The Spa in an intimate spa villa
AT SHANGRI-LA’S VILLINGILI RESORT AND SPA ROMANCE FILLS THE AIR; WHATEVER THE EXCUSE OR THE OCCASION, THE COUPLES AMONG YOU CAN SPEND A DAY DEDICATED TO PURE INDULGENCE.
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for two, to emerge totally relaxed and renewed. As dusk falls, the mood is set by candles illuminating your villa garden, lanterns swaying in the breeze and a dazzling candle-lit dinner served in the comfort of your villa terrace, in the balmy evening air. The perfect prelude to a night alone together.
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Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa provides the ideal backdrop for those thrillseekers looking for an adrenaline rush. After a hearty breakfast, try something completely new like a class in kite surfing or water skiing before taking to the skies and parasailing along the stunning shores of the resort. Whiling away an afternoon sailing a catamaran or kayaking is sure to
appeal, though these energetic types may be forgiven for succumbing to a relaxing massage in the afternoon to ease those sore muscles after so much exertion. A well-deserved, refreshing evening cocktail under a tent lavishly laid out on the beachfront of Manzaru Bar concludes the rigours of the day.
AN EXHILARATING DAY
Photos by: Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives
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KANEERU ABDUL RAHEEM RECOUNTS THE FOLKTALE OF THOSHALI KALO, WHOSE FAMILY ROSE FROM POVERTY TO BECOME RULERS OF THE ROYAL PALACE.
FROM JUNGLE TO
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poor family once lived in Dhiyamigili Island in Kolhumadhulu atoll. Their cottage was one of the worst in the village. When it rained, Thoshali Kalo, his wife and their two children had to huddle in corners to avoid drips from their leaking roof. Most of the time even after a hard day’s work, they would barely have anything to sate their hunger at night. They were dependent on the production of thoshali (thatch) for their meager livelihood.
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One day the island’s Imam came over while Thoshali Kalo was weaving thatch. The island’s odi (traditional big sailing vessel) was about to leave to the capital; so Thoshali Kalo, his wife Fathuma and elder son Bodu Kalo were occupied in preparing thatch for the odi. The imam asked Thoshali Kalo: “Would you have the courage to carry out what I ask?” To which Thoshali Kalo replied: “I am ready to do anything -- other than that which may bring harm to my three beloved.” The imam asked him to go to Male’ on the odi; assuring Thoshali Kalo that he would take of the family until his return. And it is said that, then; the Imam whispered a secret in Thoshali Kalo’s ear. Thoshali Kalo left to the capital Male’, that afternoon. Despite his efforts Thoshali
Kalo failed to find any work in Male’ and lived a dreary existence. He lacked the means to even buy a gift for his family before returning home. It so happened that, the night before the odi was supposed to leave for the island it started raining. The result was that the trip was delayed waiting for the weather to clear up. During one of the days while stuck in Male’, Thoshali Kalo went for a walk and ended up near the public court where the king settled matters of the state and delivered justice. Seeing the king conversing with ordinary members of the public, Thoshali Kalo thought of approaching the king directly, hoping for some sort of generosity. Summoning all his courage, Thoshali Kalo stepped forward and stood in front of the king. As per tradition the king first inquired about his well -being, and the state of the island. Next the King asked what brought Thoshali Kalo to the public court. Thoshali Kalo replied that he was stuck in Male’ due to bad weather and did not even have the means to buy gifts for his kids, so he was seeking the generosity of the king. The king gifted him some money and Thoshali Kalo happily bought some gifts and also a bundle of cotton for weaving nets. Returning from the trip, he handed over the gifts he brought to Fathuma and the children and started work on weaving fishing net. Those days it was Fathuma and son Bodu Kalo that did the work of weaving thatch. Upon completion of the fishing net, Thoshali Kalo went to see the imam to give the net for the Imam’s dhoni (traditional Maldivian boat). The imam asked Thoshali Kalo whether he could do something for him again. When Thoshali Kalo asked what the conditions were, the Imam replied with a set of questions. “On what day of the week and what time did Thoshali Kalo reach the sultan? On which side of the sultan Thoshali Kalo happened to stand when he was given whatever it was the Sultan gave him? What time Thoshali Kalo boarded the vessel when it left to Male’?” After clarifying these, the imam smiled and said “Kalo, don’t lose this opportunity! Go to Male’! Take along Fathuma and
your children. Believe my words! You will not be met with grief. Seems like the vessel from Haddhunmathi atoll will arrive sometime tomorrow evening. Be ready to depart.” Saying this, the imam once again whispered something in Thoshali Kalo’s ear and paid for the fishing net. The Haddhunmathi odi arrived three days later. Thoshali Kalo’s family went to Male’ aboard the vessel. When they reached Male’ Thoshali Kalo asked a kind passerby whether they could be given lodging just for the night - the person took them to his house. The following day, Thoshali Kalo went to the king’s public court while it was in progress. This time he brought up the prospect of a land plot for a house. The king said that a land plot from the Dhungethi jungle in the eastern area of Male would be gifted to him. Thoshali Kalo also requested the king to facilitate the building of a home on the land plot. The king granted that request also. The next day Thoshali Kalo cleared up the land plot he got and found stakes to mark the perimeter of his land. After doing this, Bodu Kalo and his father Thoshali Kalo returned to the house they were lodged in. Just after dusk they went back and Bodu Kalo was made to dig the holes for the stakes. After sunrise at seven clocks the next morning the stakes were driven in. This was done as per the instructions given by the Imam. All this while king’s soothsayer was observing the proceedings from a distance. The moment the stakes were driven into the ground, the soothsayer hurriedly made his way back to the king. After bowing, he said “ Dhiyamigili’s Thoshali Kalo, staking his claim as a Male’ citizen, has driven the stakes in at the right moment in order to build his house.” The soothsayer went on to confidently state, “if the house is allowed to be built, and the family moved in to live there, the king would loose his throne.” The king ordered his aides to go and remove every stake driven into the land plot and prohibit Thoshali Kalo from building the house. When the king gave these orders, Thoshali Kalo’s wife Faathuma was
listening nearby. She ran as fast her legs could carry, and gave the news to Thoshali Kalo. The family went to the land plot and Bodu Kalo was made to dig around the perimeters of the main stake and cut it off halfway from the bottom and cover it up with sand again. The aides came shortly after and removed the stakes from the ground and prohibited the family from building a house there. Around six days later, the elder soothsayer died of a fever. Fifteen days later the king granted permission to Thoshali Kalo to build on the land plot. Upon receiving permission, Thoshali Kalo drove a stake right on top of the previous stump, and finished building the house. After that the family started living in that house, with the income that Thoshali Kalo and his son earned. Four months later the king also passed away from an illness. As per the tradition of the time when a king dies, the aides and confidantes put an amulet (containing a Sorcery or magic spell written on paper) on the neck of a deer and started stalking it. It was believed that the deer would lie on its stomach and come to rest near the rightful prophesized king. That day Bodu Kalo was staying home as he had a headache. While Bodu Kalo was asleep, the deer arrived at the home, by now rigorously tired from going in and out of homes. As the home was in utter silence with no one around, the deer jumped up and onto the cupboard next to the ashi (wooden bed) on which Bodu Kalo was sleeping and settled comfortably, belly down. Thereupon the aides came over, woke up Bodu Kalo and invited him to the throne. That is said to be he who is famed in Maldives’ history as the king Dhiyamigili Bodu Bandaarain.
Kaneeru Abdul Raheem is a well known Maldivian poet and a writer. Translated from Dhivehi into English by Hilath Rasheed Photo by: Official Residence of the President , Male’ (Painted by: Naushad Waheed)
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A YEAR IN PARADISE VARA 03
WHERE EXACTLY?
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t seemed too good to be true – a year in the Maldives. As a surfer the name conjured up images of waves reeling for hundreds of metres off tropical islands complete with swaying palm trees and deserted beaches. It was a place of the imagination and a place I thought I would probably never get to. But as fate would have it, that was all about to change. My wife Jane had been offered a position with the International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies for a yearlong stint as a Water Sanitation Project Manager. It was the sort of offer that is hard to say no to. But before we said yes, we turned to Google for some answers. It took a while to find an online photo of the nation’s capital, Male’ (it helps to know the nation’s capital to start with). The photo showed an island barely 2 square kilometres in size bulging at
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MALE’ IS HOME TO SOME 26,000 HONDA SCOOTERS, THE MALDIVIAN STEED OF CHOICE. THE ROAD RULES ARE FLUID WITH SCOOTERS JOSTLING FOR POSITION ON NARROW STREETS AND ZIPPING PAST CARS WHEN THEY CAN.
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the seams with a mishmash of apartment buildings, most unfinished. It looked… ugly. The fact that over 100,000 people called it home did not help matters. But it was not all bad news. There were plenty of islands – 1,192 to be exact, divided into 26 atolls and strung out in an 800 km long line running north to south. Leaving Google, we figured there would be plenty of opportunity for some weekend island hopping and we had always wanted to get into diving. Six weeks later, we boarded a plane bound for paradise.
YOUR TIME STARTS NOW
November the 28th at just after 11.00pm we landed at Male’ International Airport, a thin long strip of tarmac surrounded by water. Stepping off the plane was like being wrapped in a warm, moist blanket. The humidity was awesome and it was hot even at this late hour. After going through Customs and Immigration we found our local contact and boarded a dhoni for the 15-minute ride to Male’. With the rain coming down, Jane and I peered through the water-streaked windows at the glowing skyline - our new home for the year. It felt daunting.
A NEEDLE IN A HAYSTACK
On our first day, Jane went off to work – just like that. As if it was the most normal thing in the world to do. I was left with the job of finding an apartment for us to live in. Didn’t seem like too bad a job – after all, it was a small place and there were apartments everywhere. How hard could it be? With no real estate agents, I decided that some first day networking was needed. I went for a walk and met a friendly man near the President’s Jetty, a block away from the souvenir shops. I should have known better, but I was trying to keep an open-mind. As it so happened, my man could help me find a place to live, for a mere $350 US dollars. Leaving the shop I figured he would be a last resort. Luck was on our side. Within 4 weeks we moved into a colleague’s recently vacated two-bedroom apartment. It was secure, close to the surf break and overlooked an industrial tip.
DIVE, DIVE, DIVE
As we were living in one of the world’s most famous diving destinations, we signed up with a local diving outfitter for our PADI Open Water certification. We spent evenings learning about the effects
of pressure on the body and charting dive profiles. On the weekends, we donned scuba equipment and learnt to control our buoyancy in the tepid, tea coloured water of the local waterhole, with locals splashing all around us. The day of our first open water dive was classic Maldives. Not a cloud in the sky, barely a ripple on the water and the sun was blazing. Underwater visibility was as good as it gets and the variety of marine life was overwhelming. With all the excitement, I sucked the air out of my tank in 30-minutes flat. We were hooked though and would go on to dive most weekends, completing 40 dives in quick succession. We had indeed found paradise.
THE WAY OF THE ROAD
Male’ is home to some 26,000 Honda scooters, the Maldivian steed of choice. The road rules are fluid with scooters jostling for position on narrow streets and zipping past cars when they can. Scooter drivers are known for cutting blind corners and not looking in their mirrors when pulling out. How there are not more accidents I will never know. Somehow, it all seems to work. Equilibrium exists - it is as if everyone keeps moving, albeit slowly, things will just sort themselves out. As a pedestrian, you quickly learn two rules. One, no one will stop for you on a pedestrian crossing, unless a police officer is standing there and two, when you cross the road, never, ever stop. Stopping just confuses everyone. The expectation amongst all drivers is that you will keep moving in a direction and they will just weave their vehicle around you. So whatever you do, keep on truckin’!
HANGING WITH THE LOCALS
The first locals I really met were surfers at the local surf break. They were friendly, keen to find out where I came from, how long I was staying and what I was doing in the Maldives. They were generous too. Surfing alone one day, I snapped my surfboard’s leg rope. Separated from
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my board, I watched as it headed for the concrete pylons and certain destruction – 500 dollars of fibreglass about to be pulped. A local surfer driving by on his scooter spotted me, and then my board. Screeching to a stop, he clambered over the slippery pylons and fully clothed leapt into the ocean to save my board from certain ruin. If alcohol were culturally permitted, I would have bought him a case of beer. Not long afterwards, a colleague of Jane’s invited us to an evening of Maldivian drumming. The evening would turn out to be a once-in-a lifetime experience. Sitting on the floor, the drummers mesmerised us with their hypnotic sounds and beautiful words. Around us, friends danced and swayed in the amber light, celebrating the beauty of the Maldivian culture. It was a night to remember. Thomas Pickard is a writer and photographer who called Male’ home for two years. He returns annually for assignment work. Photos by: Thomas Pickard, Nats Santivipanon, Ahmed Zahid
INTO THE DRAGON’S LAIR
Teashops can be found all around the capital. They usually have non-descript facades and a steady flow of Maldivian men coming and going. Serving a mix of tasty short eats and long eats, teashops are an all male domain. According to our Lonely Planet Guide, foreign woman accompanied by a male, should be acceptable in such places.
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Walking home one day, Jane and I decided to stop in at our local teahouse to pick up some hedhikaa (finger food snacks) and roshi (unleavened bread). As we entered the teahouse, the gentle hum of conversation and the clatter of plates and cutlery came to an abrupt stop. You could hear a pin drop. All eyes were firmly set on us. Acting as if it was the most normal thing in the world, we quietly went up to the counter and pointed out the snacks we would like. In the background, the gentle hum of conversation filled the air once again. Leaving the shop we sighed a collective sigh of relief and decided that next time, maybe Jane should stay outside.
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BREAKING TABOO
With no other religion permitted in the Maldives, Maldivians are Muslims of the Sunni sect. Representing the fourth pillar of Islam, Ramazan occurs in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and is a month of fasting, with eating and drinking during the day strictly taboo. All local eateries are closed until evening and normal shops seem to open and close on a whim. As a non-Muslim and a Westerner, Ramazan is not without its challenges. Having just spent an hour picking up some groceries from the local supermarket, I decided to grab a cold drink for the hot walk home. Stepping out onto the main road that splits the island, I opened my drink and started drinking it as I made my way through the crowds, totally oblivious to what I was doing. Rounding a corner I received some very hard looks from a group of Maldivians and then it hit me. What was I thinking? Drinking in public during Ramazan. I hung my head in shame, embarrassed by my thoughtlessness.
LET’S STAY A LITTLE LONGER
The year passed quickly – too quickly in fact. Living in Male’ day-to-day became our normal life. During the week we both worked and on the weekends we visited resorts and went diving. In between, we squeezed trips into places like Sri Lanka and India. Each time we returned to Male’ it felt like we were returning home. It felt good. It felt like we belonged. With the end in sight, we baulked. Suddenly we did not want to leave our crowded city with expansive views over the Indian Ocean. Presented with the option to stay for another 12 months, we thought, why not?
This is paradise after all.
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www.think.com.mv Photo : Sakis Papadopoulos
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MAGISCH, MÄRCHENHAFT, MALEDIVEN
Strände zum Träumen. Einmalige Tauchkreuzfahrten. Honeymoon im Paradies. Exklusive Hotels. Unvergessliche Segeltörns. Wellness wie noch nie. Familienglück für Gross und Klein. Faszinierendes Schnorcheln. Entdeckungsreisen für Gourmets. Erleben Sie den Zauber der Malediven.
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Informationen und Buchungen unter: Tel. +41 44 277 47 01 maledivensrilanka@manta.ch · www.manta.ch
HARUBEE
REVIVING TRADITIONAL MUSIC 30
ONE OF THE OLDEST FORMS OF MALDIVIAN MUSIC, BODUBERU IS BACK IN VOGUE. VARA TAKES A LOOK AT MUSIC GROUP HARUBEE THAT IS BRINGING ABOUT THIS CHANGE.
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oduberu is one of the oldest forms of Maldivian music. It is performed by up to fifteen men, which includes three drummers and a lead singer. The name of the music takes after the drums known as Boduberu (big drums), which is made of hollowed wood with the ends covered with goat hide or, in the olden days, manta ray skin. The Boduberu drums are often played accompanied with an Onugandu: a small piece of bamboo with horizontal grooves, which makes a rasping sound when scraped. The singer leads the song while the other performers join in the chorus, clapping to the beat. The tempo is slow at the start building into a crescendo. As the song evolves, dancers join the fray, going into frenzy as the beats get faster.
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The music and dance of Boduberu has an uncanny similarity to songs and dances found in Africa. It is likely that African sailors introduced Boduberu to the Maldivian shores. Some historians suggest that African slaves introduced Boduberu to the Maldives in the early 19th century. During the reign of King Mueenuddeen I these slaves were liberated and sent to Feridhoo Island in Ari Atoll. It is believed that Boduberu spread out from Feridhoo, becoming the country’s most popular form of entertainment. Evidence of Boduberu’s African roots can also be seen in the fact that Boduberu is commonly known as Baburu Lava (Negroid song). The oldest known Boduberu songs have lyrics that are impossible to understand today, suggesting the words derive from foreign languages, possibly ancient African dialects. Boduberu had been a staple of Maldivian life in the bygone years. No event, be it a private gathering, the birth of a baby, or even the ceremonial walks of kings, was complete without the hypnotic beats. However, in recent years this traditional music had retreated to the background, making appearances only in special festivities, circumcision parties, or as music during cultural nights in resorts. That is until the arrival on the scene of Boduberu group Harubee.
A PASSION
One of the founding members of the group, Ahmed Shiham, says that it was purely circumstantial that Harubee was formed in late ‘90s. “Mohamed Naushad, Mohamed Shamhan, Ibrahim Mamdhooh and me were just hanging around together, and one of the guys started to beat a tin pitcher and the rest of us joined in singing,” says Shiham.
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From an informal jam session, they went on to perform in parties for free, to indulge in
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their love of playing Boduberu. When they won the audition to perform at the 2006 Dubai Shopping Festival, they brought in new members and formalised the band. Like their music, the name Harubee has connections to the past. “Harubee is the beat that was drummed out by drummers accompanying the King on his ceremonial walks. In those walks, everyone would maintain pace to the beat,” says Shiham. Appearances in programmes about Maldives in the National Geographic Channel and the BBC followed, while the band’s fame was cemented when they won the Boduberu Challenge held by a local TV station in 2010.
“Ever since we won the competition, we have been getting non stop requests to play Boduberu. MNBC [the local TV station] has played a big part in bringing Boduberu to the forefront,” says Shamhan who took up the role of manager for the group. The group has 27 members and despite the demands for performances in places as varied as resorts, tourism fairs abroad and local parties, the band continues to treat its music more as a passion than a commercial venture. “This group is mostly made up of friends, and everyone works full time in different jobs such as the police, immigration department, airport and banks. Boduberu is
something that we do for our enjoyment.” Harubee is largely credited with reviving this traditional art form, bringing young men into the fold and modernizing songs. “We have taken a lot of old Boduberu songs that were not so popular and rearranged them to make them more appealing,” explains Shamhan. As well as re-packaging old songs they also sing songs of latter-day Maldivian singers.
A TREND
Nowadays, the sound of Boduberu is everywhere. TVs and radios have made it part of their daily play lists. Young teenagers have it on their I-pods. Harubee’s more popular songs, such as Ginakeriyaa Vaareygaa (In drizzle and rain) and Fanriyalugaa (thatched sail ), have received over 22,000 hits on YouTube. Meanwhile, MNBC’s Boduberu Challenge 2010 CDs continue to sell like hotcakes and can be heard blasting from radios in islands all over the Maldives.
Aishath Shazra is a Maldivian freelance journalist. She writes extensively on Arts, Culture, Tourism, Environment and Social issues. Photos by: Harubee
Major music shows in Maldives are no longer complete without a Boduberu group. A fusion of Boduberu and other instruments have sprung up, with bass guitar and even saxophone providing fodder to the Boduberu beats. The tourism industry has sat up and taken notice. Resort performances, one of the most lucrative industries in Maldives, have grown in demand. Unlike most Maldivian bands, though, Harubee does not perform regularly. “Due to the demands of our jobs, we don’t do weekly performances anywhere,” says Shamhan. At the moment, Harubee is preparing to play at the Berlin Tourism Fair. Harubee is also bringing out its own album. The group says their success proves that there is a place for traditional music in modern times. Shamhan says: “The first sound of Maldivian culture is Boduberu. We want to go as far as our passion will take us.”
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HOW IT BEGAN
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& WHERE IT’S GOING VARA 03
ADRIAN NEVILLE CHARTS THE JOURNEY OF MALDIVIAN TOURISM INDUSTRY FROM ITS INCEPTION TO PRESENT DAY
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n February 1972 the first tourists, a group of 22 Italians, arrived on a 44 seater Avro chartered from Air Ceylon. At that time Air Ceylon was the only airline in the world that flew to the Maldives and it only did so twice a year, to collect and return Sri Lankan teachers on their Christmas holiday. In February 2010 77,065 tourists arrived from 66 countries on hundreds of chartered airplanes, scheduled airplanes and private jets. The rapid development of tourism and the country as a whole has gone hand in hand. It is a remarkable success story, and a new chapter is just beginning. Those first 22 Italians were not actually the first tourists but a group of journalists, adventurers, underwater enthusiasts and photographers put together by the original pioneer, one George Corbin. Their task was to experience the Maldives, imagine the possibilities and then return home to promote the destination. They were put up in three houses in Male’ as there were not yet any guesthouses in the capital, let alone the rest of the country. The food they shared was the finest Male’s best restaurant had to offer. At least it was for one meal. Adventurousness did not extend to cuisine, the spicy food was unpalatable to the Europeans and from then on their hosts had to take over the cooking themselves, with little idea and even less experience. October 28th 1972 was when the first paying guests arrived in the Maldives.
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The intervening months were just time enough to build 30 rooms on nearby Vihamanaafushi, renamed Kurumba Village. The rooms were made in the timehonoured fashion of the country’s best houses, of coral stone hewn from local reefs. It is very tough work to extract the coral boulders and laborious to break them up and lay the walls. Coral extraction is also, of course, very bad for the reef, the fish and the islands, and consequently harmful to the very tourism it was intended to serve. When environmental knowledge became widespread, many years later, this practise
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was stopped. It is fair to say that the Maldives has been very good at learning lessons along the way. In matters of environmental consciousness and action, indeed, the Maldives is now a world leader. On a more trivial level, a nonetheless important lesson was learnt while building the country’s second resort, Bandos. There were 32 rooms in total, six blocks of two rooms and two blocks of ten rooms. Those 20 rooms in two blocks were built facing inland. Not surprisingly nobody wanted these rooms. From then on every room built in the Maldives has faced outwards to the
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beach and beyond. (Except those ‘garden rooms’ that a few resorts maintain). The roofs of every room were made of coconut thatch and the beams were of coconut timber. Light was provided by oil lamps, the water was drawn from a well. Most of the floors throughout the resort were of earth or sand. It was a barefoot experience from the beginning and the best resorts today still attend to our wish to return to a simpler way of living.
essentially it was the same product as the original Kurumba and Bandos. The first brand new idea was probably the waterbungalow. When the first one got built it was a hit-your-forehead-with-thepalm-of-your-hand moment: “Of course! Why didn’t we think of that before?” And then came the spa which was another such moment. It was such a perfect fit that within a couple of years every resort had one and several put their spa complex on their water villa jetty.
Over the succeeding years the rooms became villas, the food became cuisine and the dhonis became gulf crafts but
Although the Maldives has taken the established idea of the over-water room to another level, in terms of location, privacy
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and style, what it did next was entirely new and innovative. Conrad on Rangali Island built the world’s first underwater restaurant, and in doing so pointed a way to the next great development for the country’s tourism. Huvafen Fushi built the world’s first underwater spa. And although nothing else has yet been built underwater, there are rumoured plans that a few established resorts are seriously thinking of adding an underwater bar and disco. Certainly a young Maldivian marine specialist, who worked on the Conrad and Huvafen Fushi projects, is working towards building a number of rooms underwater, on a thila near to Bandos, appropriately.
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The original concept of one island, one resort is no longer a hard and fast rule. As we move to an exciting tomorrow, there would seem to be no real need for an island at all. In January this year, the Maldives government signed an agreement with Dutch Docklands to lease five lagoons in North Male atoll. The artist’s impressions of the project show futuristic, star-shaped amphibious mini-cities, tiered with lush
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MALDIVES HAS TAKEN THE ESTABLISHED IDEA OF THE OVER-WATER ROOM TO ANOTHER LEVEL, IN TERMS OF LOCATION, PRIVACY AND STYLE, WHAT IT DID NEXT WAS ENTIRELY NEW AND INNOVATIVE. CONRAD ON RANGALI ISLAND BUILT THE WORLD’S FIRST UNDERWATER RESTAURANT, AND IN DOING SO POINTED A WAY TO THE NEXT GREAT DEVELOPMENT FOR THE COUNTRY’S TOURISM.
green roof terraces surrounding artificial beaches and pools. One island is due to get a convention centre and a golf course. The Netherlands government is to assist in the project and the BBC is to film it from start to finish. As a counter-balance to this science fiction vision, it is good to know that the future is also open to individual travellers moving from guesthouse to guesthouse across the atolls. It is the first time this has been possible since the government withdrew permits to guesthouses back in 1984. And the key thing is, in contrast to the early years, there is a network of ferries coming into place to facilitate the journeys. At one and the same time, the Maldives will be pioneering the future and returning to the past.
Photo 1: Accomodation facilities in the early years of the Maldivian tourism industry. Photo 2: Early resort bungalow with coconut thatch roofing. Photo 3: Overwater spas - Development of Maldivian tourism industry. Photo 4: Overwater bungalows are one of the most popular forms of accomodation found almost in every resort now adays Adrian Neville lived in the Maldives and writes the definitive guide book: Resorts of Maldives, now in its third edition. Having tirelessly reviewed every single resort, he is now continually asked ‘which is the best for me?’ Enter SevenHolidays.com – his comprehensive independent guide to Maldives holidays and how to book them.
Travel Retail . Retail . Resort Boutiques
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Le Cute flagship Store . Le Cute Maafannu Store . Le Cute boutique at Hilton Maldives Iru Fushi Resort and Spa Le Cute boutique at Sun Island Resort and Spa . Le Cute Kulhudhuffushi Store Le Cute Duty Free at Ibrahim Nasir International Airport . Le Cute Duty Free at Gan International Airport
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SDM:
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PIONEER OF THE MALDIVES’ SOUVENIR
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HE SAYS IT WAS THE ADVENT OF TOURISM IN THE EARLY1970S THAT REALLY HELPED HIM TO CARVE OUT A PROFESSION IN WHICH HE COULD DEDICATE HIS SKILLS AS AN ARTIST AND CRAFTSMAN FULLY TO HIS PROFESSION.
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arudhaaru Dhon Maniku, who often signs his paintings SDM, is considered the pioneer of ‘souvenir art’ or art and craft produced with the primary purpose of selling it, or gifting it to a tourist. Also one of the first Maldivians to scuba dive, SDM’s imagination is infused with the colors and rich and varied life forms of the underwater world. The son of a craftsman, SDM was initiated into the trade of craft making and art at an early age. Commissioned by various friends and others, SDM initially produced various gift and craft items. Later on, he was commissioned to produce portraits or copy printed images by the Indian (Bhora) traders who were stationed in Male’ from the late 1800s until mid 20th century. SDM was first noticed for his talent and skills during the 10 year period beginning from the end of the reign of Sultan Hassan Noordeen and the formation of the first republic in 1953 with Mohamed Amin Didi as the first president. SDM was then a teenager. He recalls President Amin Didi as a great patron of the arts and crafts and indeed it was him who organized a nationwide arts and crafts fair in the capital for the first time in the history of the country. More generally, the short tenure of Amin Didi’s presidency is also regarded as a period of literary and cultural renaissance. Even though SDM was noticed for his talents at an early age and in the 1940s and
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‘50s, he says it was the advent of tourism in the early1970s that really helped him to carve out a profession in which he could dedicate his skills as an artist and craftsman fully to his profession. The ‘tourist market’, as it became later known, proved to be a lucrative avenue for all aspiring craftsmen, artisans and hopeful artists in the country. And given the rich traditions in craft in the Maldives, this was a welcome development for the country at
Mamduh Waheed is a writer on Maldivian art and has written several reviews and essays for catalogs. From 2004 to 2009 he was the curator at the National Art Gallery, when he was appointed Deputy Minister for Tourism Arts and Culture by President Mohamed Nasheed
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Paintings by Sarudhaaru Dhon Manik
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WHAT IS MOST APPARENT IN SDM’S WORKS ARE THE DIFFERENT MEDIA HE HAS MASTERED OVER TIME. THIS INCLUDES THE PENCIL, WATER, ACRYLIC AND OIL COLORS AS WELL AS SCULPTING AND CARVING.
large. In the 1980’s more than 20 highly developed craft forms were documented. These ranged from coir rope making from coconut husk to weaving mats from a variety of dried grass and then coloring it with natural dyes to intricate and exquisite looking lacquerware to expensive jewellery made from gold and silver. By coincidence, the year SDM was born was also the year the French Impressionist painter Monet died. And during the course of SDM’s life, Europe experienced the trends of Modernism, DADA, Surrealism, Abstract Expressionism, Pop and PostModernist art. And while it may be futile to interpret SDM’s works through the prisms of these aesthetic and stylistic trends, its interesting to note that SDM’s works exhibit many qualities of these very trends of which he may never have known much of at first hand. And perhaps more importantly, SDM admits he always strived to make something that maybe of use; admiration of aesthetical beauty being one of these uses. Additionally, he also meticulously documented the shells and fishes commonly found in the Maldivian reefs and lagoons. And one of the first series of posters depicting shells and fishes of the Maldives was illustrated by SDM, which is still in print and published by Novelty Printers and Publishers Maldives. Apart from the sheer output of his work over a period of several decades (SDM is now in his later eighties), what is most apparent in SDM’s works are the different
media he has mastered over time. This includes the pencil, water, acrylic and oil colors as well as sculpting and carving. In addition to this, he has also consistently demonstrated a knack for invention, often experimenting with different materials and techniques, and continuing even today. Senior Maldives artist Ahmed Abbas has commented on SDM; “Dhonbe is a great artist, especially his underwater scenes have something special and great about them. He has applied color to great effect. Even when we were kids, Dhonbe was a renowned artist”. In recognition of SDM’s contribution to Maldivian culture and to celebrate his achievements in the arts, the National Art Gallery (NAG) of the Maldives commissioned him in 2005 to produce a series of works for the permanent collection of the gallery. Some of these works are also now exhibited in the Maldivian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and others are displayed at the gallery in temporary exhibitions. The NAG also commissioned a book documenting the life of SDM which was published in 2009 in Dhivehi and an English translation is due to be published later in the year. SDM lives at his home in Male’ and continues to produce paintings, handcrafted objects and other items such as hand painted greeting cards and says he is very content with the life he has lived. He continues to be an inspiration to younger generations of artists and is one of the most prized individuals of the country.
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MYSORE A CITY OF STUNNING 50
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FROM COLOURFUL MARKETS TO GLITTERING PALACES, MYSORE IS A TREASURE TROVE OF INTERESTING SITES. AISHATH SHAZRA EXPLORES THE CITY, WHICH ATTRACTS THOUSANDS OF VISITORS EACH YEAR.
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ysore-welcome to the heritage city.’ The board that greets you at the city entrance sums up why Mysore is such an attraction to visitors. A city of palaces, museums, gardens, and of slow living: yoga and Ayurveda spas beckon visitors from far and wide. It is also home to dozens of Maldivian students who study everything from teaching to psychology in the 95 year-old Mysore University Mysore is the second largest city of the state of Karnataka and is labelled the cultural capital of the state. The city is located 140 km from Bangalore, Karnataka’s capital. Mysore has its own domestic airport but international visitors must take a 2-hour train ride from Bangalore or, for the more adventurous, an 18-hour bus ride from Trivandrum in Kerala, to reach the city. Mysore has retained its unique identity, despite an influx of tourists. In contrast to Bangalore, which seems to be bursting at the seams, Mysore’s 800,000 citizens fit easily into the city’s 50 square miles. The city boast broad shady avenues and the buildings are mostly low rise. It exudes a quiet charm that invites a slower pace of life. Mysore’s temperature fluctuates between 19 and 30 degrees and can make for very cool months in December to February; March to June is the summer season followed by the monsoon season in July to November
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A CITY OF PALACES
If you throw a stone in Mysore, you are bound to hit a palace. The sheer number of palaces has led to some being converted into art galleries or hotels. The Chittaranjan Palace on Vinoba Road, once a retreat for the Wodeyar Princesses, is now the Green Hotel. A model of sustainable tourism, the rooms are light and airy with hot water supplied via solar panels. The hotel’s shaded pergolas in the immaculate lawns provide the perfect backdrop for afternoon tea.
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The pride of place among all the palaces is given to the AmbaVilasa Palace, known as Mysore Palace. The seat of the Wodeyars that ruled Mysore from 1399 until India’s Independence, it was an English Architect Henry Irvin that was commissioned to design the palace in 1897, which took 15 years to complete. Entrance to the interior of palace costs Rs 200. On Sundays, you can view the magnificent palace exterior for free, in a dazzling light display, in which 96,000 bulbs are lit, illuminating every nook and cranny. Is it any less magnificent in the cold light of the day? Luckily not. The architectural style is Indo-Saracenic: a blend of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput and Gothic styles, as diverse as India itself.
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One of the most visited places in India after the Taj Mahal, it is easy to see why the Mysore Palace holds such appeal with its granite floors, marble domes, a 145 ft tower and vast expense of gardens. Two statues of growling leopards guard the entrance to a garden of rose bushes.
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Inside the palace, the grand public dharbar hall has balcony seating on either side, one for royal ladies the other for visiting dignitaries. The hall has an unimpeded view of the gardens. It is easy to imagine the king holding court-receiving members of the public, while his subjects look on from down below.
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The melange of different styles takes you by surprises. Paintings of Hindu goddesses adorn the walls, while Roman statues guard doorways. Light streams in through the ceiling’s stained glass windows, made in England and transported to India. The palace is stripped bare of furniture but a special area showcases the royal throne and furniture including a collection of dolls that were gifted to the royal family over the years. The display includes a golden howdah, the seat that the King was carried on
SIGHTS AND SOUNDS
Like most cities of India, street food is everywhere in Mysore. The whiff of baji fries, panipuris or the deliciously roasted corn on a cart, sprinkled with spices, can be found in almost all public areas. Young men offer to draw beautiful henna designs for a few rupees. In mango season, in every corner of the city, you can find mango sellers with neat little pyramids of mangoes. They sell more then 10 varieties of mangoes.
You enter the market through little lanes in between the shops of the busy SayyajiRao Road. Entering it makes you feel you have stepped into a parallel universe. An endless market stretches out in front of you: bananas, mangoes, beans, carrots, turnips, onions, and countless others. The banana area alone could be the length of an apartment block in Male’. The food is plentiful, spilling over from the baskets and onto the floor. In between the vegetables and fruit areas, is a flower market. Women sellers rule the roost here sitting in their colourful saris, besides flower baskets and garlands. On the way out of the market, you encounter the bangle sellers. Glass, bronze gold bangles, of every colour and design, are sold for Rs.25 for a pack of twelve. And a dozen is the minimum you can buy; seemingly no one wants to buy leftover bangles.
DEVARAJA MARKET: RIGHTLY DESCRIBED AS ONE OF THE MOST COLORFUL MARKETS IN INDIA, IT IS A RIOT OF COLORS 4
during the procession of Dasara, a festival Mysore is famous for. It weighs an impressive 750 kilos and is made mostly of gold. Nowadays during the festival of Dasara, the howdah is used to carry the idol of Goddess Chamundeshwari atop a decorated elephant. The 10-day festival is celebrated each year with great pomp and ceremony during September and October. It is a celebration of the Hindu mythology, the victory of Goddess Chamundeshwari after slaying the demon Mahishasura, the triumph of good over evil.
There is an art to the way fruits and vegetables are stacked, each atop another perfectly balanced. Even the garland sellers have their flower garlands coiled in a perfect round shape in their basket, not a flower out of place. A quick visit to the Devaraja Market and it is not only the art of stacking that strikes you but the sheer variety of food on offer. Rightly described as one of the most colourful markets in India, it is a riot of colours: from the blues and reds of the vermillion to the multitude of fruits and vegetables.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
The town of Srirangapatna, 19 km from Mysore, is well worth a visit for its historical sites. Tipu Sultan ruled the area around Mysore from Srirangapatna during the 18th Century. The Bangalore-Mysore highway passes through the city, and a day trip with a hired car costs around Rs.800. It is worth making time for a stopover on the banks of river Kaveri, which borders Srirangapatna. Bollywood stars often descend here, to shoot songs in and around
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this beautiful serene river. You could also take a boat ride in a ‘tokra’: a woven basket with comes with its own peddler. For Rs.100 he will take you for a ride down the river.
WHERE TO STAY? Lalitha Mahal Palace is counted among the most opulent hotels in India. A former 1920s palace, it has since been converted to a five star hotel. For a mid range hotel choose Nalapad Residency located on Dr Nelson Mandela Road is good value for money, costing Rs 1525 per night for a spacious deluxe room.
Another place to visit is Dariya Daulat, the summer palace of Tipu Sultan, built in 1784. The palace is mostly made of teakwood and is done in the Indo-Sarcenic style. Built on a raised platform, you enter into open corridors, which go right round the palace. The walls are filled with murals depicting historical scenes of battles that Tipu Sultan and his father Hyder Ali won. The inner walls are decorated with elaborate floral patterns. The mausoleum of Tipu Sultan is the other place of interest. Built in 1782, the Gumbaz is a jewel of Islamic architecture. The structure is located in the beautiful Lalbagh gardens and is crowned with a large dome. The doors made of carved ebony and inlaid with ivory are stunning. The inner chamber is decorated with lacquer Tiger stripes. Tipu Sultan was known as the Tiger of Mysore and it is said to have proclaimed: “In this world I would rather live two days like a tiger, than two hundred years like a sheep.” On the way back to Mysore, a visit to the famous Brindavan gardens is a must. The garden of 150 hectares is one of the most beautiful laid out terrace gardens in India. At the entrance one can find all sorts of snack foods and drinks, further ahead is the beautifully laid out lawns, flower shrubs of different kinds and the dozens of fountains that make these gardens a marvel. It also boasts of a dancing fountain. Each evening at 7pm, the dancing fountain on the northern side comes to life. The fountain is often described as a water ballet; it dances to Indian songs played on large speakers, and colorful water jets are synchronized to the music.
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From Palaces to dancing musical fountains, Mysore is a fascinating mix of the old and new. A beautiful city, which offers the discerning visitor lots to do and see.
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WHERE TO EAT? Indra Cafe’s Paras is an eatery on SayyajiRao Road across from the Devaraja market. The café serves delicious South and North Indian thalis along with popular Chaat and snacks. For pizza’s head to Pizza Hut and Dominoes that has outlets on Temple Road. The youth hangout Cafe’ Coffee Day on Devaraj Urs Rd offers tempting snacks and pastries.
WHERE TO SHOP? The department store of Westside has a great collection of kurthas. FabIndia, the brand renowned for selling products made using traditional techniques, has a shop in Mysore that sells fabulous kurthas and clothes. Ashoka Road is the ideal area to buy or exchange gold jewellery. Rows of little jewellery shops fill the street and they will also mend and modify existing jewellery for a small price. On the busy SayyajiRao Road one can buy all sorts of things, from non-stick pans, to sandalwood products and silk saris, the latter two being the products Mysore is most famous for. A host of other shops like the Big Bazaar and the little shopping arcade Loyal World sell everything from household items to clothes. While Devraja Arsu Road, hosts shops that sell the latest branded fashion and accessories.
Aishath Shazra is a Maldivian freelance journalist. She writes extensively on Arts, Culture, Tourism, Environment and Social issues. Photos by: Aishath Shazra
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Main Photo: Mysore Palace on a Sunday evening Photo1: Tokra ride on river Kaveri Photo2: Mysore Palace with its garden of rose bushes Photo3: An onion seller in his stall in Devaraja Market Photo4: The colorful Devaraja Market Photo5: Brindavan Garden Photo6: Gumbaz in Srirangapatna town
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ON A VISIT TO THE MALDIVES, ROYSTON ELLIS DISCOVERS A NEW WORD MEANING “UNIQUE ISLAND.” IT’S DHEVANAFUSHI, THE NAME OF THE FIRST RESORT OF THE DUBAI-BASED JUMEIRAH GROUP TO OPEN IN THE ISLANDS.
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aving stayed at many of the top end resorts in the Maldives over three decades, I thought I had seen and enjoyed the very best of holiday islands. What more could be done to improve on the quality, food, comfort and beauty of some of the best resorts in the world? I was wondering how the experience of staying at the new Jumeirah property in the Maldives, known as Dhevanafushi, could be better than at other resorts. I began to understand that the accent was going to be on thoughtful and generous service, when I emerged from Male’s Ibrahim Nasir International airport, bleary eyed from an early morning flight.
Waiting to greet me by name was Dhevanafushi’s airport representative wearing a distinctive, flowing white kurta shirt with a colourful splash of orange and burgundy, featuring one of the resort’s stylistic symbols, a seahorse. He escorted me to the Moonima Lounge of Maldivian to await my flight, and he checked every 10 minutes to see that I was well looked after. Jumeirah Dhevanafushi is located on the island of Meradhooin GaafuAlifu Atoll, 400km south of the capital city of Male’. The resort has an arrangement with Maldivian that enables its guests to be treated as “Jumeirah Class” passengers, seated at the front of the DASH prop-jet aircraft, curtained off from the rest of plane and with a snack service. The flight of 55 minutes passed quickly because of the absorbing aerial view of contrasting deep blue ocean and luminous
azure lagoons with slashes of sun-kissed golden sand. At Kaadedhdhoo Airport another resort representative, this time a butler dedicated to attending to me for my entire stay, was on hand. He introduced himself before escorting me to a waiting battery-operated buggy. I forgot about my luggage as he took care of it and we sped across the airport island to the jetty where a speedboat awaited.It took only 20 minutes for a breezy dash northwards by boat along the western side of the atoll to reach the resort. Although Dhevanafushi only opened in April 2011, it has already established a custom of greeting all arrivals with drummers playing the traditional boduberu music of the islands, and department supervisors lined up to be introduced. This sense of personal care and attention to detail, coupled with an engaging charm that quickly makes guests feel like old friends, gives character to the extraordinary architectural features of the resort’s pavilions and villas. The first sight of the water village, 16 palm-thatched villas isolated 850m from the main island on a sandbank in the middle of the shallow sea, stirs the imagination. Known as the Ocean Pearls, this village is completely self-contained with a fine-dining restaurant, dedicated reception and library lounge, a dazzling infinity swimming pool, a spa with invilla treatments,its own generator, water and sewage disposal plants, and obliging resident staff. Some guests staying in the 14 “Ocean
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Revive” villas or in the two superlative “Ocean Sanctuaries,” never bother to visit the main island. Each villa has its own swimming pool poised above the sea, private decks with daybeds, sun loungers and direct access to the sea for easy snorkelling. Each has a separate living room and dining area, gorgeous bathroom with sea views, and around the clock butler service. The bed in each is called a Super Deluxe Kingsize, and measures 3m by 2m. Like the villas on the main island, each one as an Apple Media Centre with a Mac mini integrated to the television and Bose sound systems and to theiPod and iPhone systems.
coconut drink sipped through a straw from the shell, before being escorted along the jetty. The Khibar bar is close to the jetty and the focus of the public area, beside an infinity swimming pool that seems to float out over the sea. A walkway over a water feature leads to Azara, the main restaurant, with open sides and tables set up on the beach or under whirling fans in a loggia. Alongside it a glass-fronted mansion houses the library and reception area, although guests complete the registration process in the privacy and convenience of their villas. In contrast to the vivid, honey-coloured
square metres in area) are shaded by trees from the hot tropical sun, and defined by coconut husks planted along the edges. The main walkway is ideal for early morning jogging, or there is a state of the art gym with a personal trainer available for serious exercise. The gym is located on the same overwater complex as the Talise Spa. As well as some exciting massage and bathing rituals, the Spa offers a beautician and a hair dressing salon. There are two kinds of villas on the main island. Eight of them are called “Island Revives” and have an interior of 306 square metres and breathtaking panoramic views. The 13 “Beach Revives” although smaller are still generously proportioned
On the main island, guests disembark at
a circular, glass pavilion at the end of a boardwalk jetty. This has become popular for guests who like to relax in hammocks strung out over the sea, watching fish swarm below.Since the resort has been created in virgin waters, 10km from the nearest island, the fish are untroubled by human presence, lending extra excitement to snorkelling and diving expeditions.
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New arrivals are offered a welcome
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granite and white-washed walls of the contemporary-looking public buildings, the villas are typically Maldivian, in exterior design at least. They have palm-thatched roofs, high wooden ceilings, timber floors and veranda decks, and each is hidden from its neighbour by thick foliage. Paths around the island (it is 44,000
with 206 square metres of living space hidden in shaded glades. They have features that would be amazing in a private home, and are incredible to find in “standard” accommodation as part of an isolated resort. They have the same technical gadgetry of the higher priced accommodation and an enviable and spacious privacy. Access is by wooden door onto a decked
TO STAY AT DHEVANAFUSHI IS TO DISCOVER A NEW, HIGHER AND DIFFERENT LEVEL OF HOLIDAY CARE, LUXURY AND RELAXATION. THE RESORT WAS THE 101ST TO OPEN IN THE MALDIVES AND, EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE A HUNDRED OTHER RESORTS SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE ATOLLS, IT MANAGES TO BE IRRESISTIBLY UNIQUE.
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courtyard with a swimming pool at its centre. In a tropical glade close to the beach is a dais with a huge mattress and masses of cushions set up for day lazing. There is a day bed at the pool’s edge and yet another on one side of the veranda deck. The bedroom itself is walled entirely in glass so, when the curtains are open, it is flooded with natural light. Its timber floor reflects the elegance of its high-pitched wooden roof. The bed is a four poster with gossamer curtains, oodles of cushions and sumptuous down pillows. The uniqueness of this exceptional accommodation is emphasised when a sliding door opens to reveal a study with a work station, another day bed, and a Maxi Bar, so called because it is equipped with an espresso machine, dedicated tea kettle, and refrigerator stocked with snacks and drinks of the guest’s choice.
Breakfasts are American, Arabic, Chinese, English and Japanese, with champagne and caviar or low fat, healthy options. The ala carte menus range from foiegras to sushi and sashimi with mains based on different grades of marbled Wagyu beef, a succulent lamb rack of seven cutlets, Asian specialities including Maldivian dishes, and even layered duck, and black tiger prawns. Icons indicate dishes that are diabetic- friendly or contain alcohol, pork or nuts. There is even gluten-free bread . The open-sided Khibar bar delights the cocktail explorer with some exotic combinations, or the die-hard drinker with vintage malt whiskies, vodkas and
to be irresistibly unique. The attention to guests doesn’t end when they leave the resort. My butler accompanied me to the local airport and there was another resort representative to greet me at the International Airport after the comfortable Maldivian flight. He took care of luggage and check in for my flight home, leaving me with happy memories - and a new definition of caring, pleasure and luxury: Dhevanafushi.
Another sliding door opens onto a bathroom larger than most hotel suites with a smooth marble floor and several stand alone,full length mirrors. There is a dressing room and vanity table on one side, a central counter with twin washbasins, a rain shower behind a glass door, and a separate toilet, and the piece de resistance, a huge marble bathtub below a mosaic of granite tiles. A second rain shower is in an adjoining, secret garden. The extraordinary spaciousness and luxury of the accommodation would mean little without the inspiring personality of the staff. When the resort was opening there were 4,700 applicants for restaurant and bar posts (the staff will eventually number 200) so the management had the pick of the best in the Maldives.
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Sourcing the best ingredients is paramount too so that the splendour of the accommodation is matched by fine cuisine. It’s eclectic, catering for the many nationalities who have discovered the pleasure of a holiday at Dhevanafushi.
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cognacs. The wine list rewards careful study with some excellent choices not readily available, even in their countries of origin. To stay at Dhevanafushi is to discover a new, higher and different level of holiday care, luxury and relaxation. The resort was the 101st to open in the Maldives and, even though there are a hundred other resorts scattered throughout the atolls, it manages
Royston Ellis is a British-born novelist and travel writer based in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives for over 25 years. He is the author of A Hero In Time, a novel based on the life of Mohamed Takurufaan, the 16th century national hero of the Maldives. He writes regularly for in-flight magazines and international publications, and is the author of the Berlitz, Bradt and Insight guidebooks about the Maldives. Photos by: Jumeirah Dhevanafushi
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AN UNDERWATER ENCOUNTER WITH A SHARK IS ONE OF THE MOST ELECTRIFYING AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES YOU CAN HAVE IN THE MALDIVES SAYS JOHN LANCELOT.
SWIMMING WITH
SHARKS B
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efore I came to live in the Maldives, I knew as much about sharks as most people do. That is to say, very little. As a boy, my impression of these giant, underwater predators – who have cruised the Earth’s oceans since the dinosaurs roamed its continents - was largely based on the Hollywood film ‘Jaws’. As I grew up, my understanding of sharks was complemented by ‘Jaws II’, ‘Jaws III’ and topped off with ‘Jaws: the revenge.’
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For me, sharks were evil, pre-meditated killing machines to be avoided at pain of death, or worse, some sort of horrendous bite injury. My first encounter with a shark was therefore a trifle unnerving. I was happily snorkelling off the house reef at Giraavaru resort, minding my own business, when a small shark around a metre in length swam out from the murky waters. In a great panic, with arms flapping
and flippers flopping, I made it to the shore unscathed. Exhausted, and a little angry that the resort could allow such as murderous beast to roam its waters without even a cursory warning for snorkelers, I explained my close encounter to the Italian lady who runs the dive school. “You are lucky,” I was told. “Rarely do we see sharks here.” Lucky indeed, I thought; lucky to be alive and with limbs intact.
humans. In fact, the only people who have ever been bitten are shark fishermen, who are sometimes nipped when they drag a shark onto their boats to be butchered – which is kind of fair enough, when you think about it from the shark’s point of view. For many divers and snorkelers in the Maldives, an aquatic encounter with a shark is often one of the great thrills of their holiday. Sharks have inhabited the seas for over four hundred and fifty million and such a long evolutionary history has created the perfect underwater predator. As streamlined as a jet plane and as quick as a Ferrari, sharks truly rule the reef. The Maldives is home to over 26 species of shark, from the common black tipped reef shark, which can be seen off almost every reef and whose juveniles can be spotted in most resort lagoons, to the grey reef or lemon sharks. The deep oceans of the Maldives are home to the tiger and bull sharks but these often dangerous and unpredictable sharks never come into shallower waters. The charismatic whale shark - the gentle giant of the sea - is also often spotted in Maldivian waters.
Two years on, and after dozens more shark sightings, I have come to realise how grossly misrepresented sharks are in the media and in Hollywood. You are twice as likely to be stuck by lightning than attacked by a shark; when sharks do attack humans they tend to bite surfers, not because they are partial to bony homo sapiens but because they sometimes mistake a surf board for a juicy seal; and only a few species of shark
– the Great White, Tiger and Bull sharks – are considered dangerous. In the Maldives, there has never been a recorded shark attack on a tourist – ever. Despite tens of thousands of divers and snorkelers swimming in the Maldives every year, on reefs often teeming with sharks, there has never been an attack. The reef sharks of the Maldives don’t attack
This aquatic bounty has become big business for the Maldives. Ten percent of the Maldives’ 750,000 yearly tourists visit the country to dive, creating a diving industry worth tens of millions of dollars. Last year, the government imposed a total ban on shark hunting in the Maldives, in recognition of their value to the economy and the important role they play in keeping reef ecosystems healthy. The ban was introduced following a calamitous drop in shark numbers, caused by shark fishing
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fuelled by Chinese demand for shark’s fins, which are used in sharks fin soup, a Chinese delicacy. A recent study suggests that the Maldives could make well over $10 million per year from shark related dive tourism after the introduction of the shark hunting ban. In short, sharks are worth far more to the Maldives swimming in the sea than floating in people’s soup. The Maldives has hundreds of dive and snorkel sites that are frequented by sharks. For snorkelers, one of the best sites is Bandos Island Resort & Spa’s house reef, which is teeming with black tip reef sharks and even includes its own ‘shark breeding point’. You can expect to see at least ten shark sightings in any given snorkel. I have also spotted eagle rays and even a school of dolphins while swimming off this splendid reef. Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru resort also houses a beautiful reef, home to many large black tips reef sharks; Kuramathi Island Resort is also a great place to see grey reef sharks and black tips. Many dive schools offer trips to shark points, where grey reef sharks and white tip reef sharks are common sights; you can even go on a special dive, 30 meters down in the middle of the sea, to see hammerheads.
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Two years living in the Maldives has shattered my previous illusions about sharks. I now consider them to be objects of magnificent beauty not fearful killers. They are predators - and wild creatures - and must be treated with caution and respect. But for an electrifying, heartthumping underwater experience, there is little more thrilling than swimming alongside these ancient, graceful kings of the seas.
John Lancelot has lived and worked in the Maldives for the past three years. Main Photo: Whale Shark Photo 1: Black-tip Reef Shark Photo 2: White-tip Reef Shark Photo 3: Grey Reef Shark Photos by: Guy Stevens
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FOR MANY DIVERS AND SNORKELERS IN THE MALDIVES, AN AQUATIC ENCOUNTER WITH A SHARK IS OFTEN ONE OF THE GREAT THRILLS OF THEIR HOLIDAY. SHARKS HAVE INHABITED THE SEAS FOR OVER FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILLION AND SUCH A LONG EVOLUTIONARY HISTORY HAS CREATED THE PERFECT UNDERWATER PREDATOR.
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THE IDEAL STOPOVER IN MALÉ TRADERS HOTEL MALE,
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t is just a one-minute walk from Male’ harbor to the 117-room Traders Hotel, Malé, Maldives. Offering quality and value-for-money accommodation, restaurants and services, the hotel is an ideal stop-over to explore the city before heading to your island getaway. Within walking distance, visit the bustling Fish Market, the flower-filled Sultan Park, the national museum and the slender minaret of the Old Friday Mosque. Centrally located in the administrative district, the hotel also offers a great setting for any business event – with efficient service, flexible floor plans and state-of-the-art equipment.
THE HOTEL OFFERS A GREAT SETTING FOR ANY BUSINESS EVENT, WITH EFFICIENT SERVICE, FLEXIBLE FLOOR PLANS AND STATEOF-ART EQUIPMENT.
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Back at the hotel, unwind by the rooftop infinity pool and take in the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean beyond. A fitness centre with cardio vascular and strength training equipment completes the recreational facilities.
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Offering three restaurants and lounge as well as 24-hour room service, the sensory pleasures of eating are well catered for at the hotel. Lime – the all-day dining restaurant - features a daily buffet breakfast with live cooking stations, and offers a journey of Asian cuisines for lunch and dinner. Enjoy spicy Thai salads, traditional Chinese soups, Indian fish Tikka or try the chicken Adobo wrap around – signature recipe of the Executive Chef, a native from Philippines. On Fridays, treat the whole family with a sumptuous buffet dinner of international and Maldivian cuisines. If you are looking for a meal with a view then choose to dine in Azur – the rooftop restaurant and lounge. The menu features a selection of juicy premium meats served sizzling from the
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Photos by: Traders Hotel Male, Maldives
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barbecue; the Angus Beef Tenderloin steak literally melts in the mouth. Azur also offers a selection of Japanese influenced specialties – from a fresh platter of sushi and sashimi to a traditional chicken teriyaki. For a perfect end to your meal, mingle with friends around a flavoured sheesha in the adjacent outdoor lounge. If you don’t have time for a full meal, then stop at 24-hour Panini Café for a cup of coffee and a home made pastry.
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Main Photo: Lime, the all-day dining restaurant Photo 1: Hotel Lobby Photo 2: Hotel view at sunset Photo 3: Angus Beef Tenderloin served on the rooftop. Photo 4: Deluxe Ocean View Room Photo 5: view from Azur at sunset -Restaurant, lounge and swimming pool
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MALDIVES ON THE
WORLDWIDEWEB
T
he World Wide Web, more commonly known as The Web, made its debut as a publicly available service on the Internet in 1991, as part of a project developed by a Briton, (now Sir) Tim Berners-Lee. Its aim was “to allow all links to be made to any information anywhere.” Three years later, the “web crawler” was introduced, enabling users to search for any word on any web page. With the advent of the Google Search Engine in the year 2000, information about anything and anywhere became easily available to anyone with access to the Internet.
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So the Maldives entered the cyber age with sites devoted to the islands that anyone could find simply by accessing a search engine like Google and typing in the word “Maldives”. It is impossible to verify what was the first website devoted to the Maldives; it was probably a travel
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THERE ARE OVER 280 MILLION REFERENCES TO THE MALDIVES ON THE WORLD WIDE WEB. ROYSTON ELLIS INVESTIGATES SOME OF THEM, WITH SOME SURPRISING RESULTS.
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agency based in Male’ offering holidays. Now, however, not all the 280,000,000 entries about the Maldives on the web are there to sell holidays or promote individual resorts. Some provide basic information, especially the government-sponsored sites. Others are niche sites with information on a specific topic (such as bashi which I’ll look at later). And there are sites that refer to another, parallel Maldives. The foremost site is www.visitmaldives. com, the site of the government-sponsored Maldives Marketing & Public Relations Corporation (MMPRC). Billed as “The Official Travel Guide of the Maldives” it gives comprehensive coverage of all things Maldivian with sections devoted to a Tourism Directory, Quick Facts, Photos & Videos, News, Brochures, and links to
the Maldives. It is managed by Tropical Paradise Pvt Ltd, a privately owned publishing firm that helps promote the tourism industry of the Maldives around the globe. The site includes daily updated travel and tourism features that are of interest to visitors. There are also sections giving advice about climate conditions and rainfall, customs regulations, shopping ideas and insights about the Maldivian people. Some sites use key words, such as Maldives recipes, to draw readers but really these sites are set up to sell travel agents’ holidays at different resorts. There are Maldivian recipes, however, on www. recipes.mymaldives.com and www.
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resorts and services. Users of the site can download a Visitors Guide and subscribe to a monthly newsletter. It even features The Maldives Song; this provides a stimulating musical background that plays while you browse. Somehow the music conveys not just the serenity of the Maldives but also the excitement, especially when it breaks into Caribbean style rhythms.
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Another site full of information, news and independent reviews of resorts, etc., is www.maldivestraveller.mv. This site, with the “mv” suffix, is registered in
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customs.gov.mv, which reviews the rules relating to imports and also features news and even a daily exchange rate for the Maldives currency, the rufiyaa. It is not surprising that, if you like the Maldives so much, you find yourself becoming interested in investing in the country. In that case Invest Maldives, the government agency entrusted with promoting, regulating and licensing foreign investments, is the first port of call for all foreigners keen to invest. The website www.investmaldives.org has all the information, including the cost of doing business, available at the click of a mouse. In 2007 the Maldives became the first country in the world to open a Virtual Embassy in cyberspace. You’ll find out
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dhivehirecipes.blogspot.com, including recipes for such exotic Maldivian delicacies as mashuni and barabo dishes. You’ll have to check the sites to find out what they are! Many websites about the Maldives are official ones with vital information for visitors and those interested in the islands. For visa information, www.immigration. gov.mv is packed with details, including news items, FAQs, and even forms for obtaining visas to work in the Maldives. For customs regulations, there is the official site of the Customs Service, www.
all about it on http://maldivesmission. ch/index.php?id=10. The Maldives Virtual Embassy is a parallel place in Second Life (http://slurl.com/secondlife/ Diplomacy%20Island/160/147/26) where visitors can find out about political, social or economic developments in the Maldives and meet virtual Maldivian diplomats and ask questions on subjects such as visa requirements, where they can access information about holidays in the Maldives and trade and investment opportunities, where they can take a virtual tour around a real Maldives holiday resort or where they can simply relax, listen to Maldivian music
and meet friends. The Office of the President of the Maldives runs a lively website with the latest news about the President and lots of photographs on www.presidencymaldives.gov.mv/. Another official website is one that has grown out of the country’s oldest weekly newspaper, The News Bulletin, on http:// www.maldivesinfo.gov.mv/home/files/ bulletinx.php. Published by the Department of Information of the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture, it contains news releases about government activities. The website known as http://www. maldivesroyalfamily.com/ originating in New Zealand features lots of old photographs of the Maldives and details of sultans of the past, as well as notes on the culture and history of the islands. There
to the rest of the world. The site of Maldives Post on www. maldivespost.com is especially interesting as it details the history of the postal service in the Maldives. It includes listings of issues of stamps over the years, with illustrations, such as stamps of butterflies of the Maldives as well as of Marilyn Monroe and mushrooms of the world. For currency information the website of the Maldives Monetary Authority, www. mma.gov.mv, has a details about currency operations, and also a form to download for people who have a complaint about a Maldivian financial institution. To keep up with all things Maldivian, even when you go home, an easy way is to register with Google for a Google Alert.
Maldives, boduberu.” Those niche sites? Try www. maldivesoccer.net, a lively review of the game of soccer in the Maldives revealing that the Maldives team ranked 4th in South Asia, but 160th in the world in July 2011. And for information about that niche sport of Bashi, traditionally played only by women in the Maldives? It doesn’t actually have its own website yet, but surely soon will. In the meantime, there’s a view of Bashi as another enjoyable aspect of the Maldives on http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=MwGYNSMy8L4 What about flying to or from the Maldives? There is a daily summary of flights on the long-named website http://www. flightstats.com/go/Airport/airportDetails. do?airportCode=MLE. The website of the Civil Aviation Department (www.aviainfo. gov.mv) is, as you would expect, rather technical in detail. In contrast, “Flying made simple” is not only the motto of Maldivian but also of this airline’s website, www.maldivian. aero. It features news alerts, details of the day’s weather and temperature as well as an offer of 10 percent discount on bookings made online through the website. And if you click on the “Inflight Magazine” bar you can see this copy of “Vara” and read this article.
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is even more culture as well as historical photos and insights including a DhivehiEnglish dictionary in the 208 page unofficial website www.maldivesculture. com
You simply go to http://www.google.com/ alerts and enter the word “Maldives” then every day, delivered to your email address, you will receive an overview of the day’s news stories about the Maldives.
For unvarnished facts and figures about the Maldives, from a foreign viewpoint, try the US Government website, www. state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/5476.htm. Or there is the British government one on www.fco. gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/traveladvice-by-country/asia-oceania/maldives. For the Maldives Foreign Office’s own view, visit www.foreign.gov.mv which has lots of news about the Maldives in relation
However, if you go to www. themaldivesmusic.com be prepared for a surprise. You won’t hear Maldivian music or see island musicians but instead you can learn about a rock band of nine shaggy-looking musicians from Seattle who have chosen to call themselves The Maldives. For real Maldivian music, www. maldivesmusic.com promises extracts of “the all time favourite music of the
Visiting some of these websites, it becomes easy to explore the Maldives without leaving your desk. But that’s a shame. Better to use these sites to help you learn more about the Maldives and to plan a return visit to the islands soon. Yes, isn’t the Internet incredible! Royston Ellis is a British-born novelist and travel writer based in Sri Lanka who has been visiting the Maldives for over 25 years. He is the author of A Hero In Time, a novel based on the life of Mohamed Takurufaan, the 16th century national hero of the Maldives. He writes regularly for in-flight magazines and international publications, and is the author of the Berlitz, Bradt and Insight guidebooks about the Maldives. Photo1: Screenshot of webpage www.visitmaldives.com Photo2: Screenshot of webpage www.investmaldives.org Photo3: Screenshot of webpage www.maldivesmission.ch
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THE SOUVENIR MARKET IN MALDIVES IS FLOODED WITH FOREIGN ITEMS ALONGSIDE OBJECTS MADE IN MALDIVES. HERE IS A SHORT GUIDE FOR THOSE LOOKING TO BUY SOMETHING UNIQUELY MALDIVIAN.
BUY
MALDIVIAN 1
LACQUER WARE Lacquer work is one of the Maldivesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; oldest traditions. For centuries, the distinct red, black, yellow and green colours have adorned the inside of mosques, decorated trays used to serve food in Maldivian royal courts and been used as gifts for visiting dignitaries. The smaller boxes of lacquer work are used to hold household items as varied as jewellery to areca nuts.
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To make lacquer ware, wood is sourced from the local tree funa (Alexandrian laurel), it is then hollowed and shaped. Each piece is lacquered in different colours, band by band with an abstract design curved into the black strand. The lacquer work is not purely for decorative purposes it also works as a protective coating for the wood.
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The design is unique to Maldives and the island most famous for lacquer ware is Thulhadhoo in Baa Atoll, where knowledge of the craft is passed down from generation to generation. The variety of lacquer work available in shops - pill boxes, containers, vases and ornamental objects in all shapes and sizes - ensures that one can easily find a piece that fits into their budget and luggage. The prices start from around Mrf 50 (US$ 3) upwards to a couple of hundred dollars depending on the size of the object.
THUNDU KUNAA The rolled up mats that you find in souvenir shops comes in a variety of sizes from small 1x1foot mats to 5x2 foot mats with prices that vary from Mrf 500 (US$ 32) to Mrf 7000 (US $ 453). The mats used to be an indispensable item in Maldivian
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households in the past; it was used on swings, on chairs, as coverings on beds and even as prayer mats. The craft is specific to women, who weave the mats with nimble fingers. The most famous thundu kuna comes from the island of Gadhoo in Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll. It is said the mats from this island were presented by the then Sultan as gifts to the Dutch and British governors of Ceylon. The thundu kunaa is made using sun dried reeds. The colours, which vary from light shades of fawn to black and yellow, are created using natural dyes. Each mat has a distinct pattern as the design is left purely up to the imagination of the weaver. In recent years the mats have taken the role of decorative items, adorning the walls and tables of many a Maldivian and foreign
homes. The long lasting colours and the intricate design make this an esthetically pleasing addition to any home.
MINIATURE DHONI
FATTARU
This is the quintessential Maldivian gift. The miniature dhoni has been presented to Presidents, prime ministers, visiting dignitaries and even Hollywood and Bollywood celebrities.
Fattaru - the Maldivian belly chain - is a rare item to find in shops nowadays, however if you do find one be prepared to shell out a couple of hundred dollars. The prices go upwards from around Mrf 2500 (US$ 163) depending on its size. It is not unusual for the fattaru to be around 9 foot long, enough to encircle the waist numerous times.
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In the past almost every Maldivian woman wore this alluring piece of jewellery underneath their clothes, or used it functionally to hold their kandiki (black sarong) in place. It also helped Maldivian women maintain their figure, as it was believed wearing it helped keep the tummy flat. Most fattarus used today have been passed down by grandmothers. Pieces of fattaru are also used to make anklets and bracelets. Maldivian silversmiths still make fattarus in the island of Rinbindhoo of Dhaalu Atoll. Despite the influx of the Indian equivalents in recent years, Maldivian fattarus can be distinguished by their unique designs. The two most popular designs are ‘Goh fattaru:’ silver beads interwoven together, and ‘Naru fattaru’: silver threads interwoven together.
The dhoni with its graceful bow and elegant curving prow plays an integral part in transporting people and goods in a country that is 99% water. It is also a testimony to the skill of the Maldivian boat builders who build them from memory, without the use of blueprints.
world’s most sustainably caught fish. All Maldivian tuna are caught one by one, using pole and line. This method ensures only a small percentage of each tuna shoal is caught at any one time and prevents dolphins, turtles, sea birds and sharks from being harmed. One of the few foods produced in Maldives, tuna is the staple in all Maldivian homes. Locals will always take a stock of tuna cans with them on travels abroad. Though it is quite a common gift for expatriates nostalgic about Maldives, it somehow slips under the radar of newcomers’ choice of gifts. The tuna cans have diversified in recent years from the more traditional tuna in oil and tuna in brine cans to tuna in tomato sauce, curry and other flavours. A can of tuna costs around Mrf 18 (US$1.16). It even comes in gift packs, perfect for those open to culinary adventures and looking for a taste of the Maldives.
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The miniature dhoni fashioned out of a piece of wood is also a labour of love, painstakingly carved by expert hands using a knife. The finished product is either coated with a lacquer spray, which gives it a polished look or left at its rustic best. The miniature dhoni comes in different sizes and prices can range from Mrf 200 (US$ 13) to Mrf 1000 (US$ 65
Aishath Shazra is a Maldivian freelance journalist. She writes extensively on Arts, Culture, Tourism, Environment and Social issues. Photo 1: Lacquer Ware Photo 2: Thundu Kunaa Photo 3: Fattaru Photo 4: Miniature Dhoni Photo 5: Tuna Cans Photos by : Ahmed Ansam, Aishath Shazra, Ahmed Zahid
TUNA CANS Many a fish connoisseur has rated Maldivian tuna among the best tasting fish in the world. Tuna is the Maldives’ biggest export after tourism. Maldivian tuna is lauded by Greenpeace, as being among the
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Interview with Shambe:
THE RISING STAR OF MALDIVES’ CONTEMPORARY JAZZ MUSIC THE RISING STAR OF THE MALDIVIAN MUSIC SCENE AND CREATOR OF THE FIRST MALDIVIAN CONTEMPORARY JAZZ ALBUM, SHAMBE TALKS TO VARA ABOUT PRODUCING THE ALBUM AND WHERE HE IS GOING NEXT.
VARA: A Maldivian jazz album has never been done before, what made you do one? SHAMBE: I wanted to create something new and unique to the Maldivian music industry. To infuse a variety contemporary Shambe, who majored in composition and contemporary jazz at the Malaysian jazz IS contexts in different styles STRIP and put KERALA, LANDMariyam OF ‘GREEN A FERTILE COASTAL International College of Music, has teamed up with fellowTHE Maldivian Rifga MAGIC’, Dhivehi, my mother tongue on top of it. Rasheed, the vocalist of the album, and five Malaysian musician students to create a SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE MOUNTAINOUS WESTERN GHATS AND fusion of different styles of jazz. The album is produced by Alex Tan and Shambe and has THE ARABIAN SEA. ITS BEAUTIFUL BEACHES, TRANQUIL LAGOONS, VARA: Was challenging having been released by Starmount and Universal Music Publications. is availableAND in stores in LUSH HILL It STATIONS EXOTIC WILDLIFE LUREitVISITORS FROM ALL Dhivehi lyrics over jazz? Maldives. OVER THE WORLD. SHAMBE: It was a challenge. We had to stretch the words longer then they actually Vara catches up with the raising musician Shambe who has taken the local music scene in sound in order to create a more laid back a completely new direction. feel. In fact our lyricist Naufal Naeem had a tough time writing lyrics for the song ‘10
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The Maldives first contemporary jazz album was launched with much fanfare in July with a special music show in Male’. Aptly titled ‘Feshun’ (beginning), the album is the debut album of Shameem Mohamed ‘Shambe,’ a young Maldivian musician.
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aharuge’(10 years) as it has a bossa nova feel. However he has come through with flying colours and done a superb job. VARA: How did your collaboration with Universal music publication come about? SHAMBE: After doing the recording at Starmount, our record company, the director Alex Tan got us the chance to collaborate with Universal Music Publication. VARA: Who are your musical influences? SHAMBE: Joe Satriani, Beethoven, the jazz guitarist Lee Ritenour, and for this album a US band called Cosmos Squad. This band had the idea of changing styles within one song. They might have two different styles in the verse and chorus; we have borrowed that idea from them. For example if section A features Funk, section C might have a Latin style, but the transition in between would be very smooth. VARA: Tell us a bit about the musicians on the album? SHAMBE: I have to say I got the best line up; the chemistry in the group had been very strong and fun. Jimmy the drummer and percussionist is my right hand mate from college and plays in a traditional Chinese band. Joan is the backing vocalist, who has sung well in a language she doesn’t know. Wei Zhong is an excellent. Imran is one of the best saxophonists around and Feri has done a superb job with bass. Rifga, the vocalist is someone I worked with in the past on a project for Dhiraagu, I saw her potential then and had wanted to work with her. VARA: Would you continue working with the same group? Any upcoming tours? SHAMBE: Of course, we will work together and we are going on a tour in Asia from November. We might even come to Maldives next year. The Managing Director of Lintel, Maajid, owner of Time Zone, Shiyam, and the CEO of Badhige, Bassam, have been giving us a lot of support here in the Maldives.
SHAMBE
PUBLISHED BY:
O/P : STARMOUNT RECORDS SDN BHD (MALAYSIA)
S/P: UNIVERSAL PUBLISHING SDN BHD (MALAYSIA)
VARA: How can one get the music from this album? SHAMBE: You could get Feshun music online from iTunes, Nokia Tunes, Amazon and Rhapsody. Tower Records and musical stores in Malaysia and Maldives will also stock it. VARA: How did you decide on the tunes to record? SHAMBE: We did a brainstorming session and decided first on the number of songs and the kind of music to feature in it. After that we experimented to see what goes with what, whether funk goes with swing, or bossa nova, and then depending on how good it sounded we created the tunes.
VARA: Do you think the country is ready for music albums of different genres? SHAMBE: I think this is the right time, for different genres of music to be introduced to the Maldivian music scene. In fact this should have happened years ago. Even now if I do pure jazz it might not appeal to most people, hence I have done a very modern contemporary album to appeal to a broader spectrum. VARA: What next? SHAMBE: Hopefully something bigger than this, maybe I’ll release a second album in two years time with something completely new.
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4
wd iawgEret egIheCcaea urutia WviawfiTcaeheb cnutogim Wvwlcaufua unWfegcswr iawgudIa wtwvun clwviTcsef WrWs rOsiawm IkwaWrWswd .eveaeviawfWTcawhwb csev 'Wduawh' unWfegcswr .evedIa WviawfevurUhcxwm cSwtog caerwhws Olik 750 iawgunwdurwb egWduawh Wvcawruk urutwdim WviawfcSok cnunEb cniawnig iawgumudeh ea idwa .eveaeruh Wduawh iawgudIa WrWswd iawgunWmwz im .evenwr Ikwnwduawm IrwvcxEdcnumwC .eveaegnWlwk egcnUdcnih Inwruk cnunEb .eveSwmuaidcneg iawgItwm egcaetea Whwm rwbUTckoa iaWrwbcmeTcpes egcaerwhwa emcnok IkwdIaim .evekelWfituhia wdwgwluk Wdcnegimed cSwhwvud 10 iawgEretEd ,IrwvcxEdcnumwC Enemih iawgukwtwkwhWv ckOlcf egcnUdcnih Iaea ,uhwf cSwmurukilwb WruswxIhwm WvcSwmwk caeaincnij egumunidSokwmWh cnwkivuLWf cnwkuLwgnwr cSwCcawm egumwkiawbun .eveketwbwsWnum WrukwgwhWf cnutog
iawgurWburwd uDob umcnWa WviawgEret egurwvuDnwg Inwkcleb egutWrwfcaea .eveaeruh cnevednISia iawgInwkcleb cnehcnwa IhWx ELuairid iawgurwvuDnwg Ikwa gcniTIs WrukctwrWyiz Inwkcleb caenwa .eveaInwkcleb Wvwbcait cnuLufEb cawtWCIgwb cswvwnwt egurwvuDnwg .eveSwncniretctwzcaia .eveaenef cSwCcaIr cSwrwv cnurWburwd wtwvun cnulOhim cniruk unWfegcswr iawgurWburwd uDobim Wncnutiycawr umcaWa cnegevwfis cSwCcaIr cSwrwv cawtcnuvulwdcawb ivevcaEb cne gevirevuguawx cnwlwb cawturWburwd wdwfim idwa .eveaenWd .evetogenEbit cnutiycawr umcaWa iawgWDcnef Irit wmwtwruf cnumuviawfcSokinuhcswm cawtcliawTcs utWfwt wdwfim cawturWf .evekemek cnWriawh uDob InEbil csevcnurwzwn iretctwnIz cnukwtwrUs egukwtegnWlwk egcnUdcnih Inwv caekwt "cnunWvurod" iawgukwturod idwa .eveawfiveruk .eveaeviawfiTcaeheb cawtudub egcnulwk egcnImUr cniawdwf
wncnwa cnegihej uhwf cSwaea idwa .evemusUm urWhwb Iaea egcnUscnwm wncnoa cSokctet Ikwrwbcmevon cnegiSef cniawluj .evemusUm ufIrwK
urwhws egukwturwvuDnwg
1
2
wmwnifiaWlcaea caeLokwlih cSwrud iawferuh iawgrOsiawm caetwmWlws uLokwlihea ihejun iawgcaerwvuDnwg csevemcnok csevWhea cawturwvuDnwg iawgurwhws im !eveaenWvun caeawb cniaeret egEa cnumwkwnig cawturwvuDnwg .eveawnig cnebit cnunWmehem iaWkwtIreleg cTrWa InwvurWhim cnwtcnwt wncnuh iawgugwm WbOniv .eveawfcSokulwdwb cSwkwtcleToh cnuduhwaIlwv egurWyedov cniruk Iaea urwvuDnwg cnwjcnwrwTiC cnwtea urWhim ,csevwmwn caerwvuDnwg WvcawrukwdEh ITcauC egcmwzirUT ivineTcaehemed .eveacleToh cnIrcg urUhcxwm Iaea rwlOs IkwlwToh im Eveleb cSwmwk caelWsim ulIswmWl cnencnegcSokcnunEb wtwkwh eguria cniaWaIrwz egclwnep Itwrudug cSwDob cSwrwv idwa ,IdcSokurOf cnef cSwkwtirwTok .evekeacleToh Wviawfiveruk Wmurwf cSwtog wncnwv ilwa iaWywv Escaoauria cSokumWrwa ukeaWkwTcSwtiaws unUh iawgInif urIvwh Wviawgumib wniv itIr egulwTohea cSwmuliawlwb urwzcnwm .eveaev cawtWlOgrWp Ediawbcail cnwkinif iaWmwkWyih irevuruhwf emcnea csev cniaeret egukwturwvuDnwg Whiruh cSwnwtim .everwvuDnwg wsWlivwbcmwa InwviawfiawdOh caemWgwm .eveawyik csevurwvuDnwg rOsiawm wtwvun cswlep rOsiawm 20 cSwaWyiDcnia cnegiSef cnia 1399 cnIdWlIm Ikwnwtim iawgrOsiawm cnedcnebil cnwkcnwvinim iawgunurwg wnwv urwvuDnwg .evetchwt egunWdcnWh urWyedov iruk cnwkirev Ircneh WvcSwmwk caeaITWkurWa isErignia Ivcaeruk Wmurwf cSwmwkim idwa .eveawg 1897 cnIdWlIm Iaea .evea cnivrwa .eveaigen urwhwa 15 ukeaiLum egcnuTcsirUT cnwncnwv cSwaeretea emcnea egurwvuDnwg emcnok .eveawgwn caeaIf egcsIpur WyiDcnia 200 cnutwa iten caemuruk udwrwh csevcaea cnutwa ukwhwvud wtcaIdWa .eveaev utwsuruf egumuliawlwb urEb cswvwnwt egurwvuDnwg iawgIlwaikob 96,000 caerWf iaWkwtib emcnok egurwvuDnwg umiawgctih ufWlih WywdWa Ikwrwzcnwm wncnuh iawfiawlWlcaid .evekerwzcnwm
3
wDuk ikwv cnwkitIr egunwtea iawgIlwa egulWvud IkwlWvus -ODcnia InwviawfiverukWmurwf cnwtea .evekenUn ?eveycaeh iaWncnumilcsum iaWncnUdcnih .eveSwliawTcs ckiniswrws cnegcSokinuhcswm cawtcliawTcs ckitog idwa iaWncnutupcjWr Whiruh egWyiDcnia cnumwkcnehea .evekenwt WviawfiverukWmurwf cnwtim cSwkwnwtWviawfihej iawgcaenwtcaea caeawluk IfWgws .eveaev
87
VARA 03
Wnub iawguDrOb Wyik Wbwhurwm uriawncnwv cSwrwhws cawtubwbws Wvirevuguawx cnunWmehem cSwrOsiawm cniawdwf IkwrOsiawm .eveaedcnegevwmWh csev cniawmwtwruf caemuLuairid egIlevud uDwm iaWkwtWCIgwb iaWkwturwvuDnwg cawtWpcs Wycdevcruyia iaWaWgOy .evekerwhws Wdcneginef egcnunWmehem egukwtuLokcnwkikea egEyinud Inwvogidea cnumclia InWsufwn ,Ikwrwhwsim idwa .eveSwtwhcais umIluawt Itwm Eheb WaWriaWd egumunidiawvwyik cnegiSef Wviawfevurwhwa 95 cnurumua ,wncnwa cnumwrukulisWh iawgITisrwvinuy rOsiawm IKIrWt idwa iLukcsum egcnidukea iaWncnidukWvwyik ihevid cawteacawtea Wdcnumwvwyik .eveSwnwzwv wnwved egukwtWliaWa uDob emcnea cSwawnwved egcTETcs WkwTwncrwk IkwrOsiawm cSwrirev IfWgws egcTETcs im Iaim idwa .eveaITis egWkwTwncrwk Inwncnoa urwhwsim .eveaeviawfcSokwgwhWf cSwmwk .eveawgIriawk urwTImOlik 140 WrUlwgcneb cSwrirev caerwdnwb egiawv Idcawhwrws wlcaimwa iawgrOsiawm WrukctwrWyiz cnukwtumuawg cnehinehea csevwmwn .eveaev ulEr iawguriaiDwg 2 cnurUlwgcneb InEhej cSwncnirevurutwd Iawyit ,wmwncnUn .eveSWrOf cSwawmwh WrOsiawm cSokcaerutwd ,wmwncaetWrwf WrukibOl cSwarwCcnevcDea rODcTuawa cSwrwv eguriaiDwg 18 cnurwhws cmwrcDcnevircT egcTETcs Wlerek .eveaenWdivedWa cSwrOsiawm csevuhwfcSwmuruk caerutwd cnumwvurutia udwdwa egcnirevurutwf Wrukurutwd cSwrOsiawm csuhwx wtcnwvwlcaimwa egrOsiawm ,csevwmwniawa urUlwgcneb .evebWyimWk cSwrwv urwhwsim iawgumuTcaehemed egrOsiawm ,cSwfWliK Wkwtudcawhwrws uDoburWb wdwf iruh ulEmwkwa 50 iawgunimuDob ,cnihevcSwr 800,000 .eveaedcnumeLuairid ukeaWmwkwhEswf unwhun iawgurwhwsim wdwg cnwkihef Wviawfiruf cnihegWhwgcswg Ikwrwhwsim ctWrWmia Ikwmwkcaenwa Everuk wgwhWf idwa .evekerwhws urwvctih cnuhIm cSwmudeh cawtctWrWmia csua iawgumuruk idwa .evekerwhws "irit" cSwrwv Iaim evcnehim .evemwkEdun caemuLuairid umiawgctih egIlevud uDwm cnubwbws egumwkim .eveaebil urwvctih cneLua
88
IrcgiD 30 idwa 19 IneLua cnimunUh egrOsiawm cnegiSef cnurwbcmesiD idwa .eveawgudemed Wacswaiscles wncnuh caemwkinif umiawgctih cSwrwv Ikwdemed Irwaurcbef cSwawmwh Whwm cnUj cnegiSef cnuhwm cCrWm .evekekwtcswm
VARA 03
rOsiawm
bWhwrumw Scrwhws w geaikwritw 89
VARA 03
VARA 03
VARA 03
Inwd csev cawtuDWk wscaWK enWvcnunEb cSwkwtcswvud ebcnod .evencnumwrukWmurwf ,iawhwruk cnutwa egWnEa uduh udemiaWtog WviawfiverukutEv cSwaWnEa ctWywh egWnEa Inub Ikwaebcnod urWdurws .eveSwmwk Ehejwmwhctih cSwrwv uhUr egcniretcnuheruk egulIj cnWvuz egudwa csevudwaim .evekenWncnwf iruhimed idwa iruhWrwa iawgumunidiawvurid emcnea iaWlWmcsuawr caea uDobugwa emcnea egumuawgim idwa .eveairwd ihevid caea iruhugwa
cnia 2004 .eveawfWvcauyil cawtunUmuzwm iaWkwtuyivir EhebWmuheruk iaWmwkiretcnuheruk cSwkwkwtctof cgolwTek cTrWa cawtea Inwv WnEa .evekeairetcnuyil WvcauyikuDWf cnutogEheb Wkwtcnuheruk ihevid IkwdIhwv uhUdcmwm udwmcawhum WycairUhcmujclusIawr cSokinwvwncnuh iawgumWgwmea .eveawgumWgwm egrwTEruaik iawgulOr csia emcnea egumuvurid cSokWkcawr cawtwkirwt iruh iawgnWtea iawgIrwleg cTrWa clwnwxen Ivencnuh WnEa cSwa 2009 .eveawfWvcawrukcnwycawa uhUdcmwm cSwmWgwm egrwTcsinim ITuaipeD egrwCclwk cDcnea cscTrWa ,cmwzirUT cfoa IrcTcsinim Inwv udIxwn
92
.evedIxwr utwlcaih IvcaedcSokWmwjurwt cSwhwbihevid cnuhwbisErignia ukinwmcnod urWdurws : cnuheruk
VARA 03
cnegiawvwvcaed ugwa cSwaebcnod cSwnwxckelwk ImiaWd caeawb cniaeret egIm .eveawfWhwruk caekwtcnuheruk wnig IrcTcsinim ,WycaijirWK egEjcaWr ihevid cnukwtcnuheruk iretctwnIz csevurWhim cawturWf egczWaefea cnirof cfoa cawtcnuheruk caeawb cnehea idwa .eveaeviawfiveruk iawgukwtuzwruawm Itugwv WvcaWb cniaIrwleg cTrWa clwnwxen IfwrcgOywb egebcnod urWdurws .eveaevelWkcawd csev clwnwxen cSwmuyil caetof cnutog Eheb WtWywh wtwvun ihevid egEa iawg2009 cnegIdugwa Inwv cnIrwleg cTrWa Eren cnuhwbisErignia egutofim idwa .eveawferen ctof
ebcnod .eveawfihejwmwh cSwmuren Inwv uLokuhwf urwhwaim Ipok .eveawgEg egWnEa iruh iawgElWm IneLuairid csevurWhim csevurWhim cawtcniTcniaep iaWkwtcnuheruk utWfwt idwa iaWtwkcawswm iretctwa cnurutia wgEa .eveaedWa cnumwhwruk utwbwsWnum wdwfim iaWNcneviawk iaWhwvudcnwfua idwa
egukwtcliawTcsim ,cswtoa cnehimcnwk csevwmwn .evekemwk "Wmwjurwt" cawtwnWm WvwhEd cnukwtcnuheruk egebcnod iawgIlwa eruvcSwaea .eveaenWdevun cSwkwmwk Ehejwmwh Ikwmuruk emcnok Wdwh WnEa ,iawgutogWnub csevebcnod ,Imcnihum caeCcaea enEfih cniaea caemunEb csevemcnok csev IkwCcaea cSwtif cSwtih cnumwkitIr iawgEret egukwtcnunEbim iaWmwk egcnihevid cnutogea .evemwk Enemih cnunidcseneg cnwkinif egumunef cnulol wmwh csog cSwaiDwauDnwk cSwkwywb wnig ,cawtctwvWb egIlob iaWkwhwm cawtea Wviawfibilun utwsuruf Wlcswa egutog Wviawfinef cSwaebcnod cnegcSokcviawD WbUkcs iaWmwkiretWvurwf cSwrwv cnukwtcnuheruk egWnEa cSwtogcaea .eveaeviawfiverukWkcawr cSokcTcnemuaikoD ukeaWmwkivwk cSwawmwtwruf egIhemWhwmcswm iaWycaob egEjcaWr IvcSwkwaWjItwn cawtcnuheruk egebcnod iawgEret egukwturwTcsOp unuren cawturwTcsOp im .evemuaidcneginemih cawturwTcsOp Enemih csrwxilcbwp cDcnea csrwTcnircp ITclevon cnegcSokcpWC csevcnedcnWd cSwdwaidwa cniacscviDclOm .eveaeren .eveawgItwm cnia 80 IneLua urWhim cnurumua egebcnod ctwkcawswm egebcnod iawgutwdcaum ugid wyidevutEvim Ikwmwk caenwa Everuk wgwhWf uriaEverukun udwdwa Wnug cnubwbws egukwturwhwa wnig irukutEv iawgutwkcawswmea ebcnod csevurwnuh egumuruk cnunEb cawtctwlIswv utWfwt iaWruscnwf iawgEret egIm .evemwk WviawfcSokwmwhiruf wlukoyet wtwvun cliaoa iaWawluk ckilirckea iaWawluk cnef cnegiawnWg Wg iaWncnegiawSwm iDukwl iaWmurukcnunEb cnurutia egIm .eveaenemih cnudeh iheCcaea utWfwt ea Ikwmwkcaea Wviawfiveruk wgwhWf cSwDob cSwrwv ebcnod ebcnod cnumwk udwm cawtctwlIswv iruhcnebil iawgunWmwz Wruk udWjIa iheCcaea cSwmuruk cawtctwkcawswm WvcnunEb cawtea InwvWnEa cnutogea .eveawgutog egcaescaevid caeLukua cawtea cSokulIluhwt cnegcSokcnunEb caenwduawm wbea iawgutogea csevudwaim idwa .eveawfcSokcnunEb egEjcaWr cnutogEheb Waebcnod urWdurws .eveTcauhimed udwmuhwa WvcSwmwk caeairetcnuheruk Ivcswvud urUhcxwm iruhWrwa Ikwaebcnod" .evencnehim IvuLWdiv csWbcawa WviawfWhwruk WnEa iawgcaetog wscaWh .caeairetcnuheruk uLom idwa wscaWh iawgukwturwzcnwm egIDwauDnwk egEjcaWr csev WhWvubiawjwa InwviawfcSokcnunEb wluk wnEa .Eruh caetog csevuriautcaut cSwrwv cnemerwhwa .iawgukeaWmwkirevuncnwf ".caeairetcnuheruk Wvcnegiverukurwdwg cSwrwv Ikwaebcnod egebcnod urWdurws WrukWscaih cSwtwfWgws egEjcaWr ihevid idwa iaWSwmuruk wgwhWf cawtctwkcawswm enEverukun ugwa WnEa cnumwkirevuncnwf egutwkcawswm iretctwa iaWmuheruk 2005 egumuruk cnWdnwh cawtIbWyimWk wnugwnig WviawfWdOh egIrwlegea InwvcniaIrwleg cTrWa clwnwxen urwhwa wnwv
emcnea iawgumuvureairuk cawtuncnwf ikea ELug Wtwkcawswm udwmcawhum IkwtWrwf caea ivcaerukWdwa caelOr csia cseviawguhIrWt egEjcaWr ihevid cnutogim idwa .evenImwa egutwkcawswm iretctwa iaWmwkiretcnuheruk cSwrwhwf wmwtwruf csev IvevcaEb iawvcawruk cmWzitcnia iawgElWm caezwruawm uhwvud wnigWm cnwkirev egunWfukinwmea .evenImwa udwmcawhum Ikwrwvcswvud egunWfukinwmea iawgutog Eveleb ,cswtenimed caemureairukuDob cSwncnihevid cnutog IfWgws idwa Ibwdwa .eveaeveleb cSwmwk caenWmwzcnwr wyidcnegibil cnegiveruk wgwhWf wmwtwruf cawtcTcneleT egebcnod urWdurws ,cswyiv cSwmwk iawgukwturwhwaeg 1950 iaWa 1940 Iawyid cSokctwkcawswm ea cSokclwnwxeforcp iawgutog Wnub ebcnod Iawyid cnegevihwfugwm cSwmubil caeaInwdcmWa cnumwkea cSwaejcaWr iawgEret egukwturwhwa eg1970 iawgutwgIgwh egcmwzirUT .evencnegiLug WmuvufwrWawt cnwkirevurutwf iaWSwmuruk wmwhiruf cawturwnuh egebcnod cnubwbws cSwmuvureairuk cawtctwkcawswmea cSokclwnwxeforcp idwa .eveaenub ebcnod cSwmwk wyidcnegev cSwkwtwsuruf uDob egcTekrWm egcnirevurutwf wtwvun "cTekrWm uTcsirUT" iaWncnuhIm unuLua iawgutwkcawswm egumwkiretctwa cnubwbws cnwkirevuguawx cSwkwtuncnwf wdwfim idwa iaWncniretcnuheruk cawtea ivcnunEbcnWd cSwairuk cnukwtWriaWd ea idwa iruh .eveawyid cnegev cSwkwtwsuruf egunwr cSwncnihevid idnwscaum egumwkiretctwa csevuriaea iawgEjcaWr idwa iLum Iawyid cnegev cmwzirUT cnubwbws egumutoa caetwfWgws .eveSwkwgwm unuSok csev cSwmureairuk IaWnis egumuawg iawgEjcaWr iawgEret egukwturwhwa eg1980 cnutogea WviawfevIgcawrwt cSwDob cSwrwv ,egutwvWb 20 utWfwt egEa .eveawyidcnegev wgwhWf cawtctwkcawswm egumwkirevuncnwf cnegiawkcaih wniv iaWmuyiv unOr cnibnob egISWk iawgEret cnegiawdcawfua wluk cnukwtctwlIswv Itwrudug iaWmuyiv Wnuk cnegiSef cnumuscaej wluk iawgItekwtea cSwtogctog itIr cnudeh Wnwhwg cnihir iaWnwr iaWCcaekwt ihej Wleyil .eveaenemih isEscnwrwf cnutogirukWmidcnwk Ikwrwhwa Ivcnwfua ebcnod IkwaEnom .everwhwa IvwrWhwvwa Enom Wyiretcnuheruk urUhcxwm iawgumwkiretcnuheruk "cTcsinwxwrcpcmia" egunWmwzim iawgutWywh egebcnod idwa .eveketWrwf urUhcxwm ,"cmwzilwairws" ,"WDWD" ,"cmwzinrwDom" Inwv iawgcpwrUy idwa "cpop" ,"cmwzinwxercpcsckea cTckercTcscbea" cawtctwvWb egumwkiretcnuheruk eg"cTcsinrwDom cTcsOp" cawtcliawTcs egumwkiretcnuherukim .eveawfevufwrWawt cSwmwk iheCcaea Wvun iawfeked cnulol egebcnod Iaea cnumulWgcnih caerwzwn cSwkwtcnuheruk egebcnod ,cswyiv wdwfWvcnWriawh csevIaea ItWncnef csev cawtcliawTcsim
93
VARA 03
cSokclwnwxeforcp iawgutog Wnub ebcnod caeaInwdcmWa cnumwkea cSokctwkcawswm ea iawgutwgIgwh Iawyid cnegevihwfugwm cSwmubil cSwaejcaWr iawgEret egukwturwhwa eg1970 .evencnegiLug WmuvufwrWawt cnwkirevurutwf cawturwnuh egebcnod cnubwbws egcmwzirUT cSokclwnwxeforcp idwa iaWSwmuruk wmwhiruf uDob cSwmuvureairuk cawtctwkcawswmea ebcnod cSwmwk wyidcnegev cSwkwtwsuruf .eveaenub
iawgukwtcnuheruk egWnEa wtwvun ,ukinwmcnod urWdurws egcnumcaWa ,WviawfcSokiaos cnukwturukwa eg"cmea.ID.csea" WviawfevurUhcxwm cnumwn egebcnod urWdurws iawgEret cnehea utWfwt iaWkwtcnuheruk rwainevus ,IkwnWncnwf ,rwainevus egutwkcawswm iretctwa egukwtctwvWb cSwmuruk Wyidwh wtwvun cSwmukcaiv cSwncnuTcsirUT ihevid wmwtwruf iSefctwkcawswm cSokclwnwxeforcp InWmwz cnegiawLwa iLuf .eveaeveleb cSwmwk Wyiretcnuheruk egcnihevid irukcviawD WbUkcs cSwrwhwf wmwtwruf cSwtog cnuncsiv iaWaiDnukis egebcnod Enemih cseviawgEret utWfwt egIDwauDnwk egEjcaWr ihevid Inwvcnegiruf iretctwa .evencnukwtwluk iaWmwkidnwscaum iaWkwtcnurid csevebcnod cnwfua cSwkwairwd ihevid egutwkcawswm .eveauriawDuk cSwrwv InwvcSwaeret egukwtuncnwf wdwfim Wrwvctih egcniretctwmuhwr ctWg cawtea iaWncnuhIm egWliaWa ItwgiawSwf wmwtwruf ebcnod ukeaWmwkiretIhea egWsiawf itekwt egutwkcawswm iretctwa Wkcaiv iawgutog egWyidwh InwvcSwtogEbilWsiawf cSwaebcnod cnuhwf .eveSwmudcaefua cTiaercTrOp wtwvun wrUs egukwtutwycaisuhwx ikeaikea eg1800 iawgElWm .eveawfcSokcnwximwk csev cawtcnuheruk cSwawmwh Wdem egunurwg wnwv 20 cnegiSef cnukwturwhwa uhwf ivuruk cnegId ugwa cnirevirWfwyiv WrOv egWyiDcnia unuLua csevcawturwzcnwm wncnuh iawfcSokupWC iawgutwkcawswmim cSwmuheruk cnulwa cSwtogcaea Wlcswa egEa cnegcSokIpok .eveairuk ulWvwh cnulUsua irWfwyiv cSwaebcnod
94
wmwtwruf cSwncnihevid uncnwf iaWrwnuh egebcnod cnwkcswr egcnIdcawrUn cnwswh ISef cneveruk wgwhWf iawgEjcaWr WycairUhcmuj wmwtwruf iawg 1953 ,imin .eveawgEret eguhwvud urwhwa 10 Ivudemed Wmuruk umiaWg cnImwa udwmcawhum cSwmwkcsIawr egWycairUhcmuj wmwtwruf egurumua urwvWruf Ikwaebcnod uria ivencnegiawDwv cTrWa iawgEjcaWr iawgutog WvcnWdnwh ebcnod .evekenWvuz iretctwa wtwvun cTcfWrckiDcnEh iaWmwkiretcnuheruk wtwvun
VARA 03
ukinmwcnod urdWurs w rwainevus ihevid InWb egutwaWnis
95
VARA 03
OlwkuDob .eveaifenub utWg OlwkilwSot wkwhWvea csiawaevud iawfWlenok cniriawkuDub egIDumurwvuria wlwkcaea utugwveawmwh cnulwkEbiduk .eveaIlcswf iawfWlcSokirub iDumea cniDwa cawtiDum Whiruh cSwtogcaea WLufcswbuLWdiv egcnudwr csiawa .eveaejcawgnih iawfcSokWnwm cnuLeaeg iawfWlWrufua iawfcsiawacaemuh Wyirevcnwkcsia cnuhwf cswvudwkcaeawh egEa Ivcaed cnudwr wdcauh egumuLeaeg cSwa OlwkilwSot .eveaIvWyin WmInubilwdcauh .evencnuhwf (cswvud 15) cswvudiaof cnegiawvuLug iaWairubiDumea cSwCcawm egIrubiDum wlwkcaea uhwfcSwaea .eveaIlWmcninWLwaeg cnegiawhwjwlcaemiDum Wruk cniawfwbed InuLua iawgEgea WliaWa egOlwkilwSot cnumwkuLwgnwr ubIswn .evencnukwCcaea Ebilcnutwkcawswm Iawa cawtctwkcawswm enWruk csevudwbwa cSwncniawfwbedea .evencnumebil csevcnudwr uhwmwnwvurwtwh evutiaWf cswmcnit ukwlwkcswr urEa .eveaIvwrWhwvwa iawgcaeLufcnwkcsWlWa wncnoa Wycaijcaevcnwrukcsia ukwlwkcswr cnegevwrWhwvwa udIvwt iawgurwk egcaeaWlcaufcnwmcnwr cnitwmegiawdWa utugwv WhwjuDnwb urosea uhwfcSwmulcSokUd iawfWscawa Whiruh egumwkcswr cnwlwb OtukWk Inwncnuh iawgutWg emcnea cnwtcnwt WdunWd Wlcaufea cnulwkEbuhirwa iaWncnulwkEbiduk OlwkuDob egOlwkilwSot uhwvudea .eveawyidcneg cnumwlwb cSwaOlwkuDob .eveawgEg iawfWaik EaItWscairwgulob Itoa cSwnwtcnwtikea Wlcaufcnwmcnwr wlwkcaea Wvcaoa iawfidin cSwaegOlwkilwSot csog cnumwncnukun cnumwncnwv .eveawfivel csevWvEnWm evilwburwv Itoaurosea uriacnwv ukeaiaWmutoa iawfevcnEmih itencsevukwhIm iawgEretEgea cSwCcawm urWSokiruh cnegihejWTcSwa ctoaiawfWdin OlwkuDob ukeaiaWaea .eveaifwhwjuDnwb iawfWlihejwmwh Wrwacnegiawmcnuf cSwmwkcswr iawvog cSwaOlwkuDob csiawa cnulwkEbiduk iawguKIrWt egEjcaWr Iaea .eveaIvencned cSwmutwgiawDwv .eveaevenub EncniawrWDcnwbuDob Iligimwyid urUhcxwm
caeairetcnuyil ihevid urUhcxwm IkwaumIhwrcaudcbwa urInwk .evekeairevcneL idwa
96
.elWm ,eg Imcswr egWycairUhcmujclusIawr :OTof (udIhwv udWxuawn : cnuheruk)
VARA 03
itOgcnidum .eveSwtWg ebcnidum Iawaid cnegiawlWmcnin ednwb csevWkcaenwa Inub ebcnidum .eveSWvcaWb uawdea iawgInOd wmwtwruf WmIhea Otcaemwkcnok .eveSwmuruk caemwk WnubwnEa egWtufwh Inuved cSwhirwacnudwr .evekekwtulWvus Iruk caeCcaea ivcaedea cnudwr iaWaOtukwriaWhik ukwhwvud cnok idwa .eveaihea OtWTcauh iawgcaetWrwfcnok egcnudwr Ivcaed csevOtukwriaWhik Irea Olwkea cSwaiDoa cnwruf cniaelWm iawfWlIh iawfWvulifcnuLoa caemwk Whiruh .eveairukulWvus InWd !EdelWm !WlunWgwn utwsuruf Olwk" .eveNcnub !ErukulUbwg cswbEgwm .cnegiawvog csevcniduked iaWawmutWf ErWmwdWm iDoa Itwmcnudcawh .enWvuncaetogwred cSwkwaOlwk ".cnwruf Eruhev urWycawt .InwvIh cnehenWncnwa ubWsih iawguSodctwfcnwk egOlwkea csevWkcaenwa iawfenubcnehim cSwaea iawfWvcaWb uawd iawfenub EkeCcaea ebcnidum .eveaInidugwa .evencnuhwf cswvudcnit egEa IawaiDoa Itwmcnudcawh cnegiawbiawf .eveaIawaelWm cniDoaea WliaWa OlwkilwSot OlwkilwSot utWg ukwhImoyehctih cSwrwv ivWmid uriawaia cSwrwv cnumuhea OtenWdibil caelwyihOb enWlebit Erea ,OlwkilwSot uhwvudcaenwa .eveawaidcneg cSwaegea cniawhEswf Ivencned urwhwfim .eveawaid cSwnwtWvcawrukurWburwd cnudwr cawtcswg iawguLokItwmuria egElWm .eveawkwhWv egcaeCcaOg Wviawfideh cawtcswgitegnud iawgubWsih Wviawfideh enELeaeg cnumuvuLWdiv EmIfId caeCcaOg cnulwvitegnud csevcnwkea cnudwr .evenudea cnwvcaedWvwdcawh caetog .eveaivcaedcSok iawfcSokufWs cnib cnwLwaeg cnulwvitegnud uhwvudcaenwa ctwkcawswmea .eveaifiawdOh caeCcaea Whiruh iaWaiDumenWhwj uDnwgEr .eveSwaeg Iawa cniawfwbed iaWaOlwkuDob iawfcSok OlwkuDob IvunokuLwv enWhwjiDum urwvuria csog uLokWria unudneh uhwvud caenwa IhejiDum cSwLwvea idwa .eveawvcawl urEa .eveaea IkwaiDwginub ebcnidum .eveawgIDwgctwh Wrwauria iaWmudehwtiDcnwf ) Wyirevcnwk csia egurWburwd egunWfegcswr iawgurud caeLokcnwt (WhIm WlwbihWrctwkwn iawlwburwvuria wmwtwruf ihejcnwLwaeg OlwkilwSot .eveTcauh cnwlwb egunWfegcswr IawaidwnEa iawfWvwncnwgurwh ukeaWmuhejiDum .eveaivencned iawfcSok csInuruk edwv .eveSwrWburwd WrwacnegiawluSwduDnwb elWm OlwkilwSot Iligimwyid cSwtogWLwaea .eveaifiawhwj wlcaemiDum cnwLwaeg cnurwvuria cnwkcswr WycaivIfiawSwfcneLuairid iawgEgea iawLwa egea ukeaWmwkcnIgwy Wyirevcnwk iawgumwk enWvIb cnutwa unWfegcswr Ivcaerukurumwa cSwncnulwkEbiduk cnudwr .eveaivencned WlWscaulcawtiDum Whiruh iruhiawfWhwjurWhim iawgEgea csog cnudwr .eveSwmuruk WnwmcSwhia cnuLeaeg cSwaOlwkilwSot Wtea wmutWfibnwa egOlwkilwSot uriaivcaeruk urumwaim iawfWlurWb cSwairukiawfed cSokitiaWLwa .eveTcauhcnwhwauDwa
urIgwf cSwrwv iawgIligimwyid uluDwmuLok iawgunWmwzea iLum IkwaiTufij egcnirifwmedea .evenuLua ukwyirifwmed .eveaeviawgumwk iTufijcaea wred emcaea iruh cseviawguSwrea ikea Inehejcnebit cSwncniduked iaWncnirifwmed wmwnEhevErWv WkwTcSwmurukitcaum wnWrufuDnwb .evencnegevwLug iawgunwkcnwk Erea uhwvudcaeawb cnutwkcawswm Wruk umwdurwtwhulWvud Ebilcniaea cnegeyivilwSot .eveaebilun csevwdwfenWlWk iaWmwkitwdctih Iawyidcneg cnumeLua cnirifwmedea cnukwCcaea .eveawgcaeaeyinud egumwkitemwkin cnwyivilwSot OlwkilwSot ebcnidum uSwrea ukwhwvudcaea .eveaInwdwh urutwd iDoaelWm urEa .eveawa cSwnwtea Wdcnia itenidwvwa OlwkuDob irwdISod iaWncnirifwmed egOlwkilwSot iawferuhWtea ebcnidum .eveaegumuyiv ilwSot cSwaiDoa InuLua cnwruk caemwkWnubwm Olwk" .eveNcnub utWg OlwkilwSot cSwawnWrufcnit ibitea Egwm" InubOlwkea .eveycaeh "enErek .eveSwmwk "urWycawt cnwrukwm caemwkemcnok Wvuncaemulcaeg cnwncnwa .eveawgumwk IvcnWdelWm cniDoa Inub ebcnidum uhwfcSwaea idwa .eveawgumwk enWlWLwa cSwncnuhImcnitea cned csevcnurcaisurcais ebcnidum iawguSodctwfcnwk OlwkilwSot .eveaev cSwmwkinub EkeCcaea caetwkcawswm .eveawyidelWm OlwkilwSot cniDoa waid elWm Iruh Olwkea cseviawgElWm cnumubilun cseveLua OtEbil caeCcaea cnwdcneg uriaWrufcSwSwr .eveawgulWh cSwrwv .eveawfevwkib itencaeawdwfcsevcaea wmwh enEvelenwg ErIruk eguhwvudctoa cnwrufiDoa cnutogivWmidcnwk cnebit iawfirufun IvcSwkwaWjItwn .eveaIdehwrWscaiv ukwhwvudcaea cnEret egukwtcswvud ibitcnehim .evemuhej cnudwr Inuved csogcnumwgnih cnumwgnih OlwkilwSot Wvcawrukulwdcawb iaWncnuhImikea .eveSwnwt Wvcawruk urWburwd IreacSwtih Olwkim cnumunef cnwtWvwdcawh Wvwkcawd uLufwkwhWv uLwgnwr iawgcaerwhwf cnegiawvwncnwd iawguhirwacnudwr csevOlwkim iawfcSokurwvctih .eveSwmwk enWdev caetog .evenuTcauh cSwhwairwa egcnudwr csog iawrwa cSwairuk csevctogcteniruh cawtcnwk eguSwr iawfWvwscawa ulWvuhwaulWh WmIvescaea OtukwmunEbcnok Iawa wait .eveaivcaulifcnuLoa cnumuhej cnebit irufun evwrWscaiv Ivencned Olwkim enEvelenwg caeCcaea cnwdcneg cSwncniduk uriaWdcSwSwr .eveawgumwk Iawa cnwlWvwncnwd eruhWmwkea WmIten csevcaetog cnumuvcaed caeLokWsiawf cnudwr ukea iaWmwkoyehuLupctih iaua wncnwb uawd idwa cnegenwgitekwt caeawb cSwaea Olwkim .eveaItwg csev (caeycaeDcnwb) caeairwTwg iaWSwawmutWf ibnwa csiawa cSwSwr OlwkilwSot uruwtwdea egumunwb uawd iawfId uLokitea iawneg cSwncniduked egumuyivilwSot urwvcswvudea .eveaiSef ctwkcawswm uawd OlwkilwSot .eveaemutWf iaWaOlwkuDob Irukctwkcawswm
cnutogEnemih iawgEret egukwtwkwhWviSev IhIrWt IkwawkwhWvim cnegiawvuLug iaWncniawrWDcnwb Iligimwyid eruscairuk cSwrwv iawgubWsih ikea egEjcaWr .evekeawkwhWv wncnwa cnumeyik iawguLotwa.dg Iaim .eveawyik cSwtogctogikea wkwhWvim .eveaevuLWdiv urInwk iawgumwkcaetog Wdcnumeyik wkwhWvim
egOlwkilwSot O l w k u D o b cSmwkwcsrw ihevid cnulvw Iligimywid.t
97
VARA 03
VARA 03
VARA 03
VARA 03