GET A GRIP There are few things more adventurous than rock climbing We break down the best ways to get started both indoors and outdoors.

ECHO CLIFFS Katie Malinowski climbing “State of Grace” 5.13c at Echo Cliffs. Photo by Jesse Weiner gorjana 3900 Cross Creek Rd., #4 (424) 644-0031 gorjana.com

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A✎ written by Arielle Eckerman  photographed by Jesse Weiner and Daniel Fletcher

GRIP

California is a mecca for rock climbing, with Malibu and the surrounding areas showcasing some of the region’s best spots. We take a look at what it takes to go climbing both indoors and outdoors, as TEAMWORK well as where all the best local spots are.

In addition to running gorjana together, Jason and Gorjana have three

“T ension!” a climber who is twenty feet up a sheer cliffside on the face of Point Dume calls down to the belayer standing in the sands below.

“Tension on!” the belayer calls back.The climber lets go of the rock wall, sits back in his harness, and takes a well-deserved breather. His feet balance on the tiniest outcropping of rock, and the only thing keeping him suspended there is the rope held by his climbing partner on the ground.

Yet he isn’t afraid, he has complete trust in his partner. A welcome ocean breeze cools him down, and he takes a moment to admire the expansive ocean to his right and the tiny beach goers in the distance. He takes one more breath, grabs back onto the wall, and continues climbing.

Despite being known for its beaches and celebrities, Malibu has climbing walls that have been frequented for decades.

However, Hollywood cinema did kick off one particular well known climbing spot.

In 1968 the famous sci-fi adventure movie

“Planet of the Apes” was filmed in Malibu

Creek State Park. During the filming they fixed an anchor into a sixty foot wall as rigging for a scene of the movie. Climbers discovered the anchor, and so began one of the first official climbing routes in the park.

Fast forward to the 1980’s and climbing had gotten so popular that locals would tell people that Malibu Creek State Park had “bad rock” to keep the spot a secret. In the meanwhile, local climbers were crafting classic climbing routes and bouldering problems that are still traversed today. The

“Planet of the Apes” wall became one of the most popular climbing locations in the park, with various routes leaning into their primate origins, such as “Monkey Sang,

Monkey Do”, “Spank the Monkey”, and

“Apes of Wrath”.

Though climbing has been around for centuries, the modern iteration of the sport began in the 1950’s in the United States and ascended to widespread popularity in the 1980’s. Over the years, new technologies have changed the way the sport operates, with innovative gear and indoor climbing gyms making the sport far more accessible. However, when it comes down to it, not even the most expensive gear can carry you up a cliff wall. It takes strength, flexibility, and copious amounts of technique. Climbing can generally be divided into two separate approaches: with or without a rope. Each of these categories can be further separated into a number of different disciplines, including traditional (trad), sport, top roping, and bouldering. Typically people try climbing for the first time in an indoor gym with top rope climbing. The ropes are secured to an anchor point at the top of the climber’s route, and a climber relies on the belayer for safety while on the wall. This type of climbing can be performed outside on certain routes and is typically the safest form of climbing.

In sport climbing, the climber is responsible for bringing the rope with them throughout the climb. A belayer is still in control of the safety of the rope, but the climber attaches the rope throughout the climb to preset bolts or anchoring equipment in the wall that will protect the climber in the event that they do fall. Lead climbing gets more advanced in terms of

“DESPITE BEING KNOWN FOR ITS BEACHES, MALIBU CLIMBING WALLS HAVE BEEN FREQUENTED FOR DECADES.”

trad climbing, in which the climber brings their own anchoring gear with them as they climb. This allows them to build their own routes on an otherwise barren rock face. This climbing is popular for high wall climbing like Yosemite, where climbers scale hundreds of vertical feet of granite.

Bouldering requires the least amount of gear in terms of climbing. Indoors or outdoors, a climber simply needs: climbing shoes, chalk, a chalk bag, and a crash pad.

When climbing you must have the complete trust of your partner, particularly when you climb outside or in unchartered territory. Malibu local Sammy Bassett, an avid outdoorsman, thrill seeker, and mountaineer, has summited peaks such as Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Rainier. In his free time he sets climbing routes locally and trains in the Santa Monica Mountains.

“Things tend to get testy when life is at the end of a rope. Some of my most frustrating and favorite moments have been the undoubtable arguments that happen between climbing partners. If you can’t trust that you can literally tear your belayers head off verbally from 200 feet above and still know they are going to catch that fall no matter what, you need to rethink who you’re willing to climb with,” says Bassett.

Climbing is perfect for thrill seekers, looking to tackle that next mountain. However, it can be a dangerous sport, especially when outside. As Bassett says, you must have complete faith in your team, knowledge of your gear, and awareness of your surroundings. That is why an indoor climbing gym is a great option to learn and train in because of the controlled environment. Not only is it a safe place to try climbing, but it’s a wonderful and unconventional way to get a sweat in.

It is also a full body workout, and a relatively affordable option when it comes to the prices of gyms now a days. The entry level cost for gear is relatively low, and typically a climbing gym membership includes yoga classes or strength training classes of some variety. Most importantly, it is also fun, and a lot more social than a circuit class or the treadmill.

MALIBU CREEK STATE PARK

Katie Malinowski climbing “Ghetto Crossing” 5.13a at Malibu Creek State Park. Photo by Jesse Weinert

POINT DUME CLIMBING One of the most scenic local climbing spot, Point Dume is a great spot for beginners and intermediate climbers to go on top rope climbs. thee

MALIBU TUNNEL BOULDERS Jesse Weiner climbing “Unnatural” V8 at Malibu Tunnel Boulders. Photo by Katie Malinowski.

Jesse Weiner, head route setter at Boulderdash, has spent years climbing, honing his technique and training athletes. When asked about why climbing is such a great workout, he says “that it can more or less substitute for any standard gym routine. It’s a great cardiovascular activity in addition to strengthening your entire body, mind included.”

“I think one of the more overlooked aspects of climbing is how challenging it can be to solve the problems climbing presents you. Climbing is like a physical puzzle. Often you have to perform a specific sequence or choreography in order to complete a challenging climb. An obvious solution to the challenge in front of you might not be easy to come by. This problem solving aspect of climbing keeps you engaged, teaches you to focus under pressure, and has a great social aspect if you choose to climb with other people. No more lonely days looking in the mirror and lifting dumbbells. Instead grab some friends, head over to your local climbing gym and solve some problems together,” says Weiner.

Previously, Jesse Weiner led the youth climbing team at Boulderdash, though he now coaches privately and is the head route setter. The gym has produced several successful competitive climbers over the years, with youth and adult climbers having competed in national championships and world cups.

Boulderdash, located in Westlake Village, CA is one of the closest climbing gym options for Malibu residents. In addition to the main location, there is also a location in Ventura and in the San Fernando Valley. Boulderdash offers classes to learn how to belay and top rope. They also rent gear, host kids camps, and have a youth climbing team.

Climbing is also an excellent family activity. As a previous youth team coach, Weiner believes that “climbing is a fantastic activity for kids, especially in a climbing team environment. It builds strength and confidence, problem solving, flexibility, and determination. I think the most important thing for youth climbers is learning how to try hard. Obviously, this translates to other aspects of life and is a super important trait to possess.”

“The thing with climbing that many people forget about it is the adventure of it all. You can find that outdoors, as well as indoors. To get on something that you have never tried only lends to the potential of a wonderful trip into the unknown!” says Christiaan Luneberg, co-owner of Boulderdash.

Ready to get outside, but don’t know how to go about it? Many adventure companies offer guided climbs which can include the necessary gear as well as a professional climbing expert. Unless you are going with an experienced group, this is the safest way to learn the ropes of climbing outdoors.

REI Co-op offers various levels of guided climbs outdoors. From beginners to those wanting to learn about trad gear and anchors, REI offers classes at Stoney Point and Malibu Creek State Park.

Another great local guided climbing company is Rocks n Rope Adventures which offers day trips in Malibu, including the scenic beach climb off Point Dume. All of their classes are led by a certified PCGI (Professional Climb Guide Institute) instructor, and they also offer drone footage of your climb if you want that memorable keepsake.

Outdoor climbing is a great experience and is a year round activity in Southern California. Additionally, it is accessible for all age ranges and a perfect family activity. Whether you are looking for a new hobby to pick up and get you outside, a fun date night at the gym, or a weekend family activity, climbing offers it all.

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Top 5 Local Climbing Spots

After getting yourself rope savvy indoors, the next step is to take your climbing outside. Check out these local climbing spots:

Echo Cliffs

4

Point Dume Malibu Creek State Park

3 5

Stoney Point

1

2

Tunnel Boulders

1. Malibu Creek State Park

Possibly the most accessible climbing area, Malibu Creek State Park offers a huge variety of bouldering and sport climbing. In Los Angeles fashion, two climbing areas are named after famous productions filmed on site. The film “Planet of the Apes” and the tv show “*MASH*” both have climbing areas and routes named after them.

2. Malibu Tunnel Boulders

Not far from Malibu Creek State Park, this climbing location can be a little tricky to get to. Parking on the road is illegal, but there is a parking lot located at Piuma Road and also parking at the Tapia Day use lot. You have to walk along Malibu Canyon Road to get here, but a drop down trail takes you to a scenic bouldering location. Be wary of both cars on the road and poison oak on the trail. The trek is worth it, as this area has a stunning atmosphere with moss covered sandstone boulders surrounded by river water.

3. Point Dume Cliffs

Known for its scenic views, Pt. Dume offers beginner and intermediate top rope climbs. This cliffside allows you to climb with ocean spray on your back, and the accessible routes offer a perfect place to practice your technique. Due to the location and limited routes, this climb can get pretty crowded. Located at the end of Westward Beach, you can either climb with your back to Zuma beach or adjacent to Pirates Cove.

4. Echo Cliffs

Up the winding canyons of Mulholland and Yerba Buena, this climbing spot is one of the most well-known sport climbing areas in Southern California. Most of the climbs are long, requiring at least 60-meters of rope. In addition, it is about a 45 minute hike in along the Mishe Mokwa trail. However, the hike in is worth it- with around 200 sport climbing routes and stunning scenic views of the Santa Monica Mountains, Echo Cliffs provides the most challenging routes in the area.

5. Stoney Point

Located in the LA basin off Topanga Canyon Road, this is one of the top bouldering areas in Los Angeles county. Stoney Point has a storied past, with many famous climbers learning to climb here. Climbers such as Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia, and John Bachar, a famous free climber, are said to have started out climbing here. The sandstone crag offers top rope climbing as well, but the majority of the climbs are boulders.