Noor-e-Dastaan by MANAVI SAHAY

Noor-e-Dastoor

Declaration All Rights Reserved: This is to certify that this document has been solely made for the purpose of the Craft Cluster Project at NIFT, New Delhi. This document has been surveyed, studied and brought together by the Students of Leather Design, Semester 5. The names are as follows: Ajeet Maurya Ananya Vaishya Anmol Kindo Kawanshi Anand Manavi Sahay Shirsh Karan No part of this document may be produced, replaced or changed in any form without preceding permission from National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi.

Acknowledgement Finishing this undertaking would not have been conceivable without the help and direction of our mentors and the combined effort of the whole team. We thank National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi for providing us with this wonderful opportunity to document the craft of Jutti making. We are also highly indebted to Tulika Mahanty Ma’am & Sivasakthi Ekambaram Sir for their direction and supervision. We express our sincere gratitude towards them for giving us the fundamental data and assets for this work. We offer our thanks towards the whole team for their thoughtful co-activity and support which helped us immensely in finishing this undertaking. Lastly, we would also like to appreciate every individual who assisted us with our trip and made this project possible.

Business Plan 2025

Anissa May Co.

Abstract Documentation of the Craft Cluster study done by Leather Design, Semester 5, students of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi on Punjabi Jutti In the academic year 2019-2023. The present state of the crafts and the socio-economic conditions of the craftsmen, as well as interactions with the artisans, were examined and recorded through an in-depth examination of procedures, techniques, and the current scenario of the crafts. The purpose of this tour was to educate the students about the Punjabi jutti craft and its cultural and economic ramifications.This craft is fading and draining many people of their livelihoods as a result of modernisation, industry, low pay, and consumer interest. As more people transfer to other, more profitable professions, this leads to a vicious cycle.Today, there is a critical need to revitalise this craft and inspire more people to continue it, so that we do not lose not only an art form but also a beautiful craft that values the hard effort that goes into crafting juttis.

1. MACRO RESEARCH : PUNJAB 1. 1. Introduction 1.2 Geographical Area 1.3 History 1.4 Demographics 1.5 Economy 1.6 Culture 1.7 Major Crafts of Punjab

2. CLUSTER : MALERKOTLA 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Geographical Area 2.3 History 2.4 Demographics

3: PUNJABI JUTTI : An Introduction 4: BACKGROUND of JUTTI 5: TOOLS and RAW MATERIAL 6: PRODUCTION PROCESS 6.1 Pre Production 6.2 Process of making 6.3 Post Production

CONT

ENTS

7. DESIGN AESTHETICS 8. EMBELLISHMENTS and MOTIFS 8.1 Motifs and their signifcance 8.2 Colours

9. TYPES OF JUTTI 10. CONTEMPORARY JUTTI 11. PRODUCT QUALITY AND ASSURANCE 12. COSTING 13. ARTISANS' PROFILE 14. COVID-19 AFTEREFFECTS 15. SWOT ANALYSIS 16. SOLUTIONS 17. CONCLUSION 18. QUESTIONNAIRES 19. PATIALA VISIT 19.1 Introduction 19.2 Resons for going to Patiala 19.3 Market Resarch 19.4 Major differences 19.5 Problems and their Solutions

20. GLOSSARY 21. OUR TEAM 22. REFERENCES

1.1 Introduction Every corner of Punjab is filled with culture, heritage and art. It is a very prosperous state that also offers fertile and cultivable land. Originating from the two words Punj (Five) & Aab (Water), it literally means the land of five rivers that are Sutlej, Beas, Ravi, Chenab and Jhelum - two of which are in Pakistan now. Rich with opportunities from house-level crafts to big businesses, Punjab has an excellent economy - agriculture being the major backbone. The major urban cities of Punjab are Ludhiana, Patiala, Mohali, Jalandhar and Amritsar. There are a total of 237 towns/cities in all of Punjab. Whether it is the calmness of the Gurudwara, or the daily chatter in the bustling markets of Punjab, the people here are exuberant and skillful in all the things they do. The varieties of craft here come to life in the home of artisans, and reach the doorsteps of malls, showrooms and gully markets of the significant urban cities.(“Know Punjab – Government of Punjab, India,” n.d.)

Five rivers find their way through the divine lands of Punjab, Furrowing on edges as they swerve past bustling markets filled with daily chatter, that fill mouths with jalebis and Lassi. Sparkling under the twinkling sky, Like silver creases – the water so pure and rich. Still running with soil and grit, that they collected from fields and lawns overlooking the brink of yet another Gurudwara, Hearing prayers as they replenish; A thousand hearts with love and hope. Watching as people give love, and ask for absolutely nothing in return The rivers peep through sunflower fields and rice paddies giving respite to the farmers from the heat Reflecting the colors and the singsong of the land. In the evenings as the rivers invite the men who jolly well laugh after a day well spent, with bhangra on their feet, they get ready to move on beyond this land that lives to no end.

Punjab in

Poetry

1.2 Demographics 1.2.1 Population 30,000,000 people(“Punjab Population 2020/2021,” n.d.)

1.2.2 Population Composition In today’s Punjab, Hindus consist of the biggest minority. majority of the Muslims reside in Malerkotla and neighbouring areas. Christians and Jains also make up parts of Punjab. However, Sikhism is the most practiced religion of the state. Tracing back in history, Punjabis are primarily descendants of the so-called Aryan tribes who arrived in India in the second millennium BCE, who had a highly developed civilization. Ropar has relics from this civilization. Expansion happened when Parthians, Kushans, Greeks, Hephthalites invaded. Much later, Islam transitioned the state with Holy Sufi people.(“Punjab, India | History, Map, Culture, Religion, & Facts | Britannica,” n.d.)

1.2.3 Geographical PUNJAB Punjab lies in the northwest area of India. The all out space of the state is 50,362 square kilometers (19,445 square miles), with the cultivable region being under a guaranteed water system. Its normal height is 300 meters (980 ft) above ocean level, with a reach from 180 meters (590 ft) in the southwest to in excess of 500 meters (1,600 ft) around the upper east boundary. Punjab is located between 29.30° and 32.32° north latitude and 73.55° and 76.50° east longitude.On the west side of Punjab,Pakistan is bordered, Haryana and Rajasthan on south, northeast by Himachal Pradesh and North by Jammu Kashmir.

PUNJAB Malerkotla

1.2.4 Language The Official Language of the state is Punjabi which has been written in the Gurmukhi Script. It is generally the tenth most communicated language in the world. Other languages spoken in Punjab include Hindi, Urdu and the all around acclaimed English.

1.2.5 Economy The 15th largest economy in India is ranked by the state of Punjab. It has a ₹5.44 lakh crore in gross domestic product and ranks 16th in per capita GDP in competition with Indian states. The foundation is Agriculture.(Ganguly et al., 2007) It adds almost 2/3rds of food grains total production and third for the country’s production of milk. Many other industries that contribute to Punjab’s economic growth include electrical goods manufacturing, machine and equipment tools, fabrics and textiles, stitching machines, scientific instruments etc.(Dutta, 2012)

1.3 History The 15th largest state of India, Punjab has a rich history and background. The old Raj province of Punjab was divided between India and Pakistan when India was partitioned in 1947, resulting in the foundation of the Indian state of Punjab. The western, predominantly Muslim, section of the province became Pakistan's Punjab Province, while the eastern, mostly Sikh, part became India's Punjab State. Because there were so many Sikhs and Hindus in the west, there was a schism. (“History – Government of Punjab, India,” n.d.) Source: https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/punjab/punjab-history-and-culture/

Source: https://www.allaboutsikhs.com/punjab/punjab-history-and-culture/

1.4 Culture Dance The traditional dance of Punjab is Bhangra. The dancers have different colourful costumes including turbans for men and handkerchiefs for both. The dance is very energetic as well as different. Both men and women perform it. Some more famous dance forms are Gidda, Sammi etc. Festivals The famous festivals of Punjab are Lohri Baisakhi, Gurupurab. Lohri is the main festival that is celebrated on a higher note with Dhol and nagaras. People enjoy and celebrate together with lots of rituals. Language and Literature The main language of Punjab is Punjabi. Most people of Punjab speak, write and read Punjabi language only. The famous literatures are by Guru Nanak ji, those literatures are known as Janamsakhi. They are literally pure and the oldest.(“Punjabi Culture | Traditions, Food, Dance, Art Forms & More,” n.d.)

1.4 Cuisine Punjabi cuisine is rich in flavours. Punjab is in India as well as it is divided into Pakistan also. The famous cuisine of Punjab is Makke ki roti with sarson ka saag, tandoori chicken, Amritsari kulcha and chole etc. Famous drink is lassi. Punjab has a rich variety of spices that makes the food delicious and makes it different from others. Also it is known as the breadbasket of india.

1.5 Major Crafts of Punjab Phulkari Phulkari is the most famous type of embroidery not just in Punjab but all over India and abroad. It is done by women which use both hands as well as machines using needles and thread - in different shapes, designs and colours. Durrie making Durries are made using the weaving technique. It is very famous in Punjab. Different designs are made on durries like geometrical shapes, florals and fauna on cotton cloth. Mud Work Mud Work is a very early art that is famous in Punjab. It is associated with the painting of houses with mud by making different shapes on the wall of houses known as Chowk Poorana. Mostly done by rural women of Punjab. Basketry It is a very famous handicraft in Punjab done by weaving thin sticks of grass. It attracts people from all over the world. It has been done from ancient times by Punjabi people.(“Punjab Arts & Crafts,” n.d.)

2. ABOUT T MALER

HE CLUSTER KOTLA

2.1 Introduction Malerkotla is the only District of Punjab that was untouched by the bloodshed of the 1947 Partition. It has a large Muslim population that stayed back in India. Dotted with bazaars, places of worship and a widespread culture, Malerkotla was a part of the Sangrur District of Punjab, until 2021, it was declared a separate district.

2.2 History Malerkotla state was established by Bayazid Khan, who got high rank in the Mughal army. He saved the life of Aurangzeb from an attacking tiger, he became famous and people got to know him as an independent ruler. He got permission to build a fort and he named it Malerkotla. He invited Shah Fazl Chishti, a Sufi saint, and Damodar Das, a Hindu sadhu, to place the keystone. Nawab Sher Muhammad Khan, Bayazid's grandson, get recognition and respect of the Sikh after he saved the life of Guru Gobind Singh's two young sons from an emperor. Guru Gobind Singh thanked the Nawab of Malerkotla for his bravery and blessed him. The peace was maintained even though in the tough time during partition in 1947 in Malerkotla. The Nawab had made a rule that if any Sikh or Hindu had died then four Muslims would also die in order of apology and nobody died.

Nawab Ahmad Ali Khan was the last ruler among his sikh and hindu neighbours who effortlessly worked for them. He did so much to India in September 1947, in the month after independence and died a month later in October 1947. Although he had enjoyed a reign of 40 years. Afterwards Nawab Iftikhar Ali Khan took over his father’s place after his death. He combined Malerkotla into the Patiala and Eastern Punjab States Union (PEPSU) in the same year. Malerkotla tolerated a lot of inhospitable conditions. Approximately 75% of its native are muslims in one part of East Punjab. It is very depressing that the beautiful palaces and public buildings, including the splendid Shahi Maqbara, are gradually being destroyed. The Nawab could not afford to sustain all those structures, but some government agencies such as the archaeological survey are taking care of them because another part of India's heritage is slowly finishing.(“History of Malerkotla,” n.d.)

2.3 Demographics 2.3.1 Population According to preliminary data from the 2011 census, the Malerkotla metropolitan area had a population of 135,424, with men accounting for 71,376 and women accounting for 64,048.

2.3.2 Geographical Area The District of Malerkotla stands at a geographical area of 122 km2. Its neighbouring districts include Darnala, Ludhiana, Patiala, Mansa and Fatehgarh Sahib.(“Malerkotla is Punjab’s 23rd district,” 2021).

2.3.3 Language The mother tongue of Malerkotla is Punjabi and most of the village people speak Punjabi. People also communicate in Hindi and Urdu.(“Malerkotla , ਪੰਜਾਬੀ,” n.d.)

2.3.4 Administration The area of Malerkotla is a part of Punjab Province in the north of India. It was declared as the 23rd district in Punjab after being cut out of the Sangrur region on 14th May, 2021.(“Malerkotla district - Wikipedia,” n.d.)

2.4 Other Crafts of Malerkotla The District of Malerkotla is famous for providing hand-woven badges for the Indian Defence Forces, Exquisite colleges and universities. and insignia signs for state police Departments. It serves beyond 70 percent of the demand from the Indian Defence sector. Over 500 Muslim craftsmen families are brocade-oriented weavers and artists. Malerkotla’s name is known to institutions like the Iraqi army, Cambridge University and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. After the partition Malerkotla has a majority of muslims more than 500 Muslim families that have master craftsmen. The craftsmen also offer embroideries and embellishments to International labels like D&G, Polo Ralph Lauren, Gucci etc.(“Badge of honour,” n.d.)

3. PUNJAB

I JUTTI

Jutti is an Urdu word that refers to a shoe that has a closed upper and a sole. Juttis come in numerous varieties that are indicated by territorial custom, time period and the skill of the shoemaker. This is adjusted by the climate and materials as well. Juttis are usually made out of pure leather. But often, other materials are also used to make juttis.

4. Historical The Punjabi Jutti has a rich history. Since the time of Mughals, juttis have been turned to for seeking comfort, good fit and beauty. Hindu and Vedic sagas have mentions of gold pattis and delicate stones known as Zari embroidery on their clothing. Authentic footwear at this period also began to be embellished with Zari or Zardosi. During the Sultanate Period, the gold-silver pattis (Zari) reached its very peak and was worn by the royals. The traditional Zari on footwear has been portrayed in a variety of colours. The Ain-i-Akbari also contains details about zardozi places. Traditional Zardozi places have moved a lot from place to place.

Background The major areas for jutti remained Agra, Rajasthan, Lucknow, Delhi, Punjab and Gujarat which have also impacted the designs and colours. The most important centre for zardozi was Lucknow. Velvet and leather authentic footwear came into play and was worn by many. The kings and nobles wore The Kafsh. The traditional Salem Shahi was also introduced during this period. Mojaris were introduced in the 17th Century under Emperor Jahangir. The popular works in present day also include The Rajasthan Mojari, The Maharashtra Kolhapuri chappal and other zardosi decked juttis locally made. (Kour, n.d.)

5. Raw Ma Leather For the upper : Generally, sheep or goat leather is used for the upper. Depending upon the availability, even camel leather is used. For the sole, buffalo leather or cowhide is used.

PU Rubber Solution Usually, PU Rubber solution is used to stick the cushioning/padding area at the heel area in the hand pasted juttis.

Zari Thread and beads Different kinds of thread (zari), beads and stones for embroidery work.

terials Soot 6 Strand Cotton Thread for handstitching the jutti

Kashish/ kapoor to remove unwanted smell from leather

Mustard oil Used to heat up/warm the leather and to set a deeper and set the colour onto the leather (pakka rang)

Tools &

Jamboor is used for folding

Punches A cylindrical tool to make holes for design element

Aari Boring tool to make holes

Farmah Footwear Last

Rambi for scratching (khurachna)/ cutting

Kundiyari for making holes in leather

Heeran ka seengh used for the purpose of finishing and polishing

Equipments

Morga Wooden Hammer

Leather board

Summa Iron Hammer

Sui Needle used for stitching

To add stiffness and for support

Silver/White Pencil to trace pattern on leather

Upper Paper Pattern For tracing and making the basic form of jutti

Fevicol Hardener C OK 1000 FW Used for pasting elements together

Scissor

6. Sourcing Julfakar ji sources all the raw materials from local markets in Sadar Bazar of Malerkotla. Most of the tools and equipment like Hammers, Rambi, Jamur and Aari have been passed onto him from his father. Some unconventional tools like the ‘Heeran ka seengh’ has been passed down from his grandfather to his father, and now he uses them.

7. PRODUCTION PROCESS

7.1 Pre-Production The craftsman's purchase the leather and the tools from the close by shops on the lookout, tools like rambi and kundiyari should be brought after every 3 months or so as the old ones lose their sharpness while the instruments like heeran ka seengh, patthar,hammer works for ages. As far as the introduction of new tools for the jutti making measure is concerned, there is no introduction of any new device, artisans are using these tools from ages. Every one of the metal instruments are made by lohaars (the local community of individuals who make metal tools). Every one of the apparatuses are kept and kept up with by the craftsman himself, each time the rambi is utilized it is sharpened on the pathaar.

PRE PRODUCTION

At whatever point they experience issues like inaccessibility of raw material they need or the tools they need they just change to another shop close by. They purchase 100 pieces of sheep or goat leather at once, 10-15 pieces of buffalo leather and 3-4 pieces of devices like rambi at a time. a leather load of 100 pieces runs out in a month. The leather brought is coloured according to the necessity which takes around 4 days to dry and prepared for the further processes.

Making 1 set of jutti by a solitary individual, it requires a day to make a pair of jutti by an expert , else it requires 2 days. craftsman begins with tracing the basic pattern of the upper and the sole on the leather then, at that point. Now, the upper will be sewed to the sole with the assistance of kundiyari which will make hole for the soot to pass through the leather. Then, at that point it will be put on the shoe last of an exact same size for the jutti to hold its structure.

7.2 Process of making The extra color which is left after applying on the insole is kept in a small container and in the case that it gets dry, water is blended appropriately. Yet, as told by artisans there is no other alternative of leather as it's the main raw material for a genuine punjabi jutti.

The process of jutti making begins from tracing and cutting of the upper paper pattern on the goat or sheep leather while the pattern of sole and insole buffalo leather which takes just 10 minutes. Prior to cutting the sole the leather is pounded and scoured with rambi to slacken it and break the fibres as to make it more adaptable for the wearer and extricate strands will require less power to pass soot through the leather, if the upper has some work like zari work or embroidery, the upper is as of now cut according to the pattern

Zari work, weaving or other works like phulkari, chikankari etc. is usually done on the Upper, the pattern is traced and afterward, the leather is passed on to the individual who will accomplish the work on the upper, it requires hours to an entire day relying upon the intricacy of work, subtleties and quality. After the work has successfully taken place, the upper is scaled and sent back to the artisan to complete the rest of the process.

Presently, the sole and insole is coloured with the shade of decision, powdered colour is blended in with fitting measure of water, first layer of colour is applied and allowed it to dry for 10-15 minutes then, at that point second coat is applied after that it is left for 25-30 minutes to dry and set.

Assuming that the craftsman needs to make some pattern on the insole, he utilizes the mallet and a pre-made metal chain design – he, then punches it on the insole. After this, the sole and the soot is absorbed in water for about 5-10 minutes. Later, the upper is sewed to the sole and insole which requires around 30 minutes for 1 jutti and for a couple of jutti its 60 minutes, back of the sole and insole is as yet not sewed nor stuck.

For the padding on the heel side of the jutti some foam or left-over piece of the leather is filled in the necessary region then the evening out of the heel is done with the assistance of rambi and it is then stuck with PU Rubber solution. Afterward, back support, the sole and insole is currently sewed with the assistance of kundiyari same as done with the upper, this step takes around 45 minutes for every piece as the solution itself need 10-15 minutes to dry. After each progression the leather is scoured with heeran ka sheengh to keep the shine kept up with. After the jutti is prepared it is put on the farhma and let it sit for a day or 2 to hold its structure. Finally, it is polished and wrapped, after it is constructed.

7.3 Post Production Process After juttis are ready, they are coated with polish to protect it from dust, dirt and parasite, and after that it is kept in plastic covering to shield it from residue and soil. After the jutti is prepared, it is conveyed to retail shops nearby and if the request is to be delivered to another city, it is moved by the passenger transports as the expense of an overall delivery via that is low. Not just mass conveyance and whole selling artisans likewise sell juttis at their own retail locations. According to the artisans the deal is at top in celebration seasons and marriages so it takes an essential part in selling of punjabi juttis.

Julfakar Ji’s Signature Style 1. Dual Lined Upper: In the Lucky Juttis, they create a horizontal line across the center of the jutti with a khurchana 2. Design in the Sole: Usually, an embossed and repeated chain design is imprinted onto the sole with the help of a metal chain 3. ‘Zari ki Lakeer’: A vertical line of Zari Embroidery is marked onto the upper of the jutti for the purpose of design sensibility and differentiation.

Mr. Julfakar Ji confirmed that his favourite style of jutti is the Lucky jutti because it is the easiest to make (Pattern-wise). He also confirmed that no body in Malerkotla copies each others' designs. Artisans have their own signature styles and express their creativity in any and every way.

EMBELLISHMENTS : Moti

The final touch to the jutti is added by the hands of a woman. She embroiders and embellishes each Upper, Instep and sometimes, even the Back of the jutti with precious beads, jewels and threads. The panna or the jutti upper is carved out from one scrap of leather or fabric. As expressed by Heena ji, Jali Kadai is a Malerkotla special embroidery. She uses silver and gold zari threads to deck the juttis and finish her pieces. It is also her favourite ‘Kadai’ style. Other common embroidery styles of Malerkotla includes - Phulkari Kadai, Jali Kadai, Kashidakari Kadai, Mirror Embroideries etc. The demands of consumers impact the final design, as lots of their designs are made on market demand. For example, Cowrie shells, meshes, pom-poms, mirrors, ceramic beads are used these days to offer a larger market of young women and men. Both hand and machine-embroideries are done in the present day. Stencils are used to carve out areas for tracing and cutting designs.

fs and Design Aesthetics

Indo–Persian motifs called buta, Kashmir cones are very popular. Lucknow’s speciality, which has a GI Tag, Chikankari, is often applied to uppers - Motifs of coriander leaf stalk, mango and grass stalk designs are also common.(Kour, 2020) To conclude, in the words of Shabnam ji “we have all kinds of people - who like their jutti decked with designs and patterns, but we also have customers who prefer a simple and minimal design also the in-betweens of people who are confused, and choose a combination of the two extremes. We are happy to bring to life their styles for them”(“The Sole of Punjab – Story of Indian crafts and craftsmen,” n.d.)

15. Significance of motifs Punjab is a land that is coated with inspiration. For motifs, designs come in through all kinds of channels of nature surrounding us, current trends and often, even older traditional embroidery and artworks. Geometric shapes and Floral Motifs: The geometric shapes and floral styles have taken inspiration from the Baghs and roots of lands in Punjab. Baghs are called different names from Lahori Bagh, to Mircha Bagh, kakri bagh, shalimar bagh, dunya bagh - basically referring to a geometric or square garden

Market Demand Designs: Not everybody has taste for traditional designs. Shabnam ji explained to us how the youth look for unconventional designs. Often, ideas are taken from internet trends and styles and pop culture. Some jutti orders are also embellished according to the full attire/clothing for special occasions. Traditional Embroidery: Traditional Gujarati Mirror Work of Kutch which is distinct as it is known after the cultivator, Kanbi, and the cowherd, Ahir literally meaning milkman in Sanskrit is popular. The evergreen Phulkari of Punjab, Beautiful Kashidakari of Punjab and Kashmir, the renowned Chikankari of Lucknow are other common Traditional designs.(Kour, 2020)

16. Colours Shadings prior favored were dark, gold, silver, cream and brown however as leather colors and rexine shading assortments are accessible consequently juttis are likewise accessible in a great deal of new tones. Dull shading are liked by local people yet more splendid and sparkly hued juttis are liked by foreigners i.e., for export. For shading, sarfoola (yellow) and arshi gulabi powdered colors are blended in water to make it into various shades of red. These are then applied to the leather – pieces utilizing a nearby shaving brush.

Colour Scheme

Costing

S.NO 01

Item Sheep leather

price in rupees

no of piece, done in 1 quantity

price/pair in rupees

150

2 pair

1 pair

Buffalo leather

77/sq feet

Embroidery

10 pair

Dye

350/L

10 pair

Polish

25 pair

PU rubber solution

584/L 546/L

35 23.18

100 pair

5.46

Kapoor

700/KG

100 pair

Labour

100

200

Packaging

Soot

overhead (cost of tools, cushioning)

2.5

Profit

100

Total

655.44

17. Types of Jutti

Salem shahi Jutti : Salem shahi jutti has a v-shaped twisted front with a spade shaped sole. This style is named after the Famous Mughal ruler Saleem (Jahangir). Also known as Nok wali jutti.

Tilla Jutti: This sort of jutti accompanies an extraordinary kind of brilliant string work called Zari work. This work can likewise be found on Lucky and Khussa Juttis, which go under the classifications of Tilla jutti differing with foundational layouts.

Khussa Jutti : This type of jutti is designed for men and features a twisted point on the front that evokes masculinity by resembling a gabroo's kundi mooch.

Lucky Jutti : Lucky Jutti is called thus, as in Punjabi "Luck" signifies midriff and this sort of jutti has a tight waist like a midsection of a young lady.

Kasuri Jutti : Kasuri juttis have a distinctive toe indent design and were traditionally imported from the Kasur region of Pakistan, but are now made in Punjab as well.(“Punjabi Jutti – Blogs,” n.d.)

18. Product quality According to Julfakar ji, a successful Punjabi Jutti is one that is: sweat proof their stitches don't get loose easily the sole is made up of leather not rubber it can be worn for a maximum of 2-2.5 years. If a product has failed, it means: that the coworkers or other artisans did not concentrate fully while stitching juttis perhaps, they bought poor quality leather & other materials

20. Contemporary juttis Juttis arose around 400 years ago from different parts of North India specially from Punjab and Rajasthan in royal manner using gold and silver threads. Juttis are made up of leather with beautiful embroidered motifs and colourful embellishments for any occasion. Modern jutti is a balanced mashup of Indian inheritance and traditional style. Artisans worked a lot to keep this handicraft alive. Nowadays changes have occurred in material, tools, fabrics, motifs, designs and patterns according to customer demand and trends. It is an art that needs to be carried out forever as juttis are not only pretty to see but comfortable to wear with any outfit whether traditional wear or western wear. A jutti has no left and right. Now varieties are in demand so the artisans are making heeled juttis and backless juttis also known as kulfi juttis. It all starts with small changes and this is what makes them contemporary. It’s no time for boring juttis. Some design examples are tassel beaded jutti, quirky motifs, florals, cute fauna, calligraphy etc. Juttis can be a good gifting choice. It really looks cool on everyone. No specific age is required to wear it. Also a very famous trend is coming up is matching colour juttis for matching outfits and like mother like daughter concept. People from Canada, United Kingdom, USA, The Middle East etc. have a huge liking for Punjabi Juttis with excellent craftsmanship and finesse.(“Contemporary Juttis: The Footwear Trend with a Twist - HelloPost,” n.d.)

23. ARTISANS PROFILE

About him: Mr. Julfakar Ali is a skilled artisan from Malerkotla district of Punjab. He has been practicing the Jutti craft for 20 years now. Owner of Shahi Jutti Store, located in the Sadar Bazaar of Malerkotla, he works from 10 am to 8 pm everyday (10 hours daily) to satisfy his customers. He was introduced to jutti making by father, who also learnt it from Julfakar ji’s grandfather. The shop was his father’s venture, who died 25 years ago - after which he took on. He is highly passionate about Jutti making and can make one jutti in 1-2 days.

Mr. Julfakar Ali

Sourcing:

Marketing Strategies:

He sources all the raw materials like leather, threads etc. from local markets in Malerkotla that are only 5-7 minutes from his shop.

He has developed a signature style for his shop and uses that to his advantage. His buyers are from all over Malerkotla. The renowned wrestler, Great Khali, has also bought a pair of juttis from him, and that was an extremely proud moment for Mr. Julfakar. His nephew has made an instagram page for the show of his Uncle’s juttis in 2021. Before this, he had no social media platforms. Due to the COVID-19 lockdown in 2020, his shop was closed down for 3-4 months because of which he faced losses. But now that the lockdown has been lifted, he has high demand from customers.

About her: Mrs. Heena Tabsam is a very skilled artisan who embroiders and embellishes uppers, and sometimes even the instep and back of the Juttis that are created at Shahi Jutti Store, which is her husband’s shop. She has been doing embroidery since she was a young girl of just 15 years in Malerkotla. After marriage, she began embroidering jutti uppers for the store. She has passed on the skill to her friends and younger sister, who also works with her. She does embroidery work for about 5-6 hours per day.

Mrs. Heena Tabasam

Sourcing: Mrs. Heena sources all the threads and embellishments from the local markets of Talian Bazaar Rajjan Street in Malerkotla.

Marketing Strategies: She currently does not have any platform for social media or online marketing. The production is based on demand from Shahi Jutti Store, Malerkotla.

About her: Miss. Shabnam has been familiar with embroidery since she was a young teenage girl. All women in her house were taught the craft of ‘kadai’ in Malerkotla. She embroiders uppers of juttis for Shahi JuttiStore. She has taught embroidery to her younger sisters. She works for 6 hours per day.

Sourcing: She sources all the threads and embellishments from the local markets of Talian Bazaar Rajjan Street in Malerkotla.

Marketing Strategies: Mrs. Shabnam is not on any online or social media or online platform. All the work she does is sold at Shahil Jutti Store, Malerkotla.

Miss Shabnam

About him: He is a young semi-skilled craftsperson. He has been taught the craft by his uncle, Mr. Julfakar ji. He has been practicing jutti making for 2-3 years now and wants to make a living out the craft. He is extremely passionate about jutti making - he can make a full jutti in less than 2-3 days. He works for 4-5 hours on a daily basis. He

Mr. Mohammad Sahil

Sourcing: He sources all the raw materials like leather, threads etc. from local markets in Malerkotla that are only 5-7 minutes from the shop he works at - with his uncle (Shahil Jutti Store).

Marketing Strategies: Sahil has used the power of social media to his advantage by making a jutti photo gallery instagram account for his uncle, Mr. Julfakar’s store.

SWOT Raw materials can be obtained at a reasonable cost. Lower-cost labour is accessible The artisans can channelize their creativity in the best way by doing what they love and earn a living through this.

They have incurred financial losses as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Because it is a labor-intensive job, the production rate is lower. This business has been passed down through the centuries, but the younger generations are less interested in handloom work, and their families do not want their children to be involved in the business because the profit margin is so low.

Analysis The craft of jutti making is on decrease. The Punjab government to resuscitate this perishing craftsmanship opened footwear Design and Development institute FDDI, in Topkhana chowk in Patiala. . It is one of the chief footwear organizations in the world and it arranges: Stitching, design, and pattern cutting training for artisans, as well as skill upgradation.

People do not pay attention to the details of the craft, they just focus on the final outcome. Direct fare of jutti is not done as it involves bunches of entanglements so producers send out their juttis through mediators who in turn exploit them by giving less cost. Government has removed the Subsidy on Punjabi jutti and also put VAT on sale of Punjabi jutti. Because of corruption, craftsmans are not permitted to take an interest and are even not engaged during various exhibitions. Because of Financial Problems, Migration of craftsmans to different callings and urban areas was noticed. During the summer, when manufacturing rexine juttis, juttiartisans need sit next to a heater to ease the top surface of the jutti, which is a tough task for them.

21. The Covid-19 Pandemic and its effects Plight of Jutti makers at the hands of the Pandemic Jutti makers, traditional craftsman of footwear never had it this hard as they have since the outbreak of Covid 19 in India. The lockdown meant closure of factories, shops and business transactions done physically. Historically, jutti makers are from marginally disadvantaged communities and located in remote parts of the country. They lack working capital and mostly depend on large orders received from business houses or local shops.

With all of these activities being shut during the lockdown, the jutti makers suffered on following account: The orders that were started before the pandemic but on completion wasn’t taken away by the business houses breaching their commitment. Logistic issue acted as a barrier to resource raw materials or despatch deliveries. Few business house buyers as lockdown closure meant shut shops for uncertain period or they just lacked funds to make the investment. Few individual buyers as there is a big dip in public consumption Big stocks with insufficient storage and no buyers have meant that it is getting spoiled Jutti makers are not even able to recover their basic investment on raw materials and labour expenses. They as it is lack working capital and most times depend on money lenders who give it on huge interest rates. This ends them with increasing debts. In order to pay back, they mortgage their homes and sell precious items

Solutions 1. To start selling their products, directly from home - it could be done in collaboration with other artisans. So that their chance of earning money increases. As of now they make juttis in bulk and sell them to wholesale shopkeepers or middlemen on a fixed pace but if they sell each product themselves then it could increase their income. 2. Social Media and online platforms are a great idea to use to get in touch with more people and get online orders. Social media is an excellent tool and its power should be harnessed to its full extent. 3. If they want their children to continue with the same craft then, they can follow the trends and focus on business ideas and marketing tools. The youth is more technologically savvy and can pursue a Design Course that will further the opportunities in the Jutti making field.

Conclusion India has a very rich culture and heritage that sprawls in every corner of the country. Punjab is one of the major hubs for such art, craft and culture - that should be preserved and promoted. The craft of jutti making starts from the home of an artisan and reaches the doorstep of marketplaces in the span of just a few days. Jutti making is a beautiful, time-consuming process, and the artisans we worked with made it look effortless with the kind of craftsmanship they exhibited. In olden times, juttis were made only for Kings and Noblemen. The craft of jutti making has changed to a very large extent as it now caters to a large number of people from all backgrounds and tastes - and new trends in styles, silhouettes and motifs have been predominating. The major problem for most artisans was the hit of the COVID-19 Pandemic, as it took away months of their production and selling power. The recovery has been extremely slow - and many artisans are still struggling to continue where they left off. Handicrafts have many benefits and qualities to offer. The revival and promotion of such crafts should take place in order to maintain the honour of the craftsmen and the region of Punjab.

Visit To Patiala Due to the COVID-19 Pandemic, restrictions were imposed all over India. Therefore, visiting the district of Malerkotla, was not possible. Instead, we seeked permission for a cluster visit to Patiala, which is also among the major jutti centres of Punjab - as that would provide us with a similar experience. The permission was granted by the authority at National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi. Hence, we went to Patiala for a period of three days for the hands-on experience. We got the opportunity to observe the lives and the craft of artisans very closely. It was a very valuable learning experience we connected with the artisans, the process and the craft to a much larger extent.

Journey The visit to Patiala was short and sweet. We went there for a period of 3 days. On the first day, we went to the house of the artisans in Mochi Gully, Top Khana Mod, Patiala. We observed their place of stay, their workspace, the family and the process of jutti making. It was truly an enriching experience that left us in awe of the ins and outs of the craft and culture of Patiala. We not only explored jutti artisans and markets, but also general marketplaces for Phulkari and other handicrafts of Punjab.

Market Research in Patiala

Labelled as one of the major Jutti Trade and Market centres of Punjab, Patiala has a big market audience for the Classic Punjabi Juttis. Buying directly from the artisans would only cost between Rs. 350 to Rs. 450, depending upon the intricacy of the work in the jutti. Jutti shops and local markets dotted the lanes of the famous Adaalat Bazaar of Patiala. We went to many shops and saw beautiful Juttis displayed in every shop. The price in this local market was between Rs 400-Rs 700, depending upon the intricacy and production. Designer Brands based in Patiala like Punjla, Delhi-based Designer brands like Needlelust, Fizzy Goblet etc. sell Punjabi Juttis from the range of Rs. 1,200- Rs. 4,000 and more. Bridal Collections sell the same styles at even higher rates peaking till Rs.12,000.

Any major difference in comparison to Malerkotla

The only major difference that was observed between the Patiala jutti and Malerkotla Jutti was that Patiala jutti makers followed upcoming market trends and relevant styles & silhouettes. They tried to adapt to bright colours and design variations whereas the Malerkotla jutti makers held onto their tradition and they majorly inculcate traditional design patterns and silhouettes to their juttis. However, they try to balance that out with following market trends, as well.

Problems faced- with suggestive solutions Artisans from Patiala have incurred financial losses as a result of the pandemicOnline platforms are a fantastic way to reach out to more people and take online orders. Direct fare of jutti is not done as it involves bunches of entanglements so producers send out their juttis through mediators who in turn exploit them by giving less cost- A large showroom to launch their own business. As a result, their chances of earning money improve. They currently create juttis in mass and sell them to wholesale retailers on a set schedule, but if they sold each product individually, their income would improve. This business has been passed down through the centuries, but the younger generations are less interested in handloom work, and their families do not want their children to be involved in the business because the profit margin is so low. They should follow the trends and acquire good outcomes if they want their offspring to continue with the same craft. Because the seasons change, fashions shift. They should make money off of it by using the internet.

Our team Group 2 Ajeet Maurya Ananya Vaishya Anmol Kindo Kawanshi Anand Manavi Sahay Shirsh Karan

Ravi - A major river that flows through Punjab Sutlej - A major river that flows through Punjab Jhelum - A river that used to flow through pre-Partition Punjab, and now flows through Pakistan Chenab - A river that used to flow through pre-Partition Punjab, and now flows through Pakistan Beas - A major river that flows through Punjab Mughal - One of the greatest dynasties, the Mughals ruled over parts of South Asia from 16th18th Century Zardosi/Zari - Intricate and heavy embroidery done with silver-gold threads, famous from Madhya Pradesh Zari ki Lakeer - A a straight line which is threaded with zarigold/silver threads Panna - Upper of a Jutti Kadai - Embroidery Jali Kadai - Type and style of Zari woven embroidery Buta - Indo-Persian Motifs

GLOS

SSARY

Kashidakari - An embroidery style belonging to the regions of Kashmir,Himachal and Punjab Chikankari - An intricate style embroidery belonging to the state of Lucknow Phulkari - Traditional geometric and floral motifs that are hand-embroidered and belong to the state of Punjab Bagh - A square garden, here it is referred to a motif style Lahori Bagh - A style of Bagh embroidery MirchaBagh -A style of Bagh embroidery Kakri bagh -A style of Bagh embroidery Shalimar bagh - Refers to a square garden built during the Mughal Period, also a style of Bagh embroidery Adaalat Bazar - A famous local market for juttis and Phulkari work in the heart of the city of Patiala lohaars- the local community of individuals who make metal tools.

1.Artisan’s Name- JULFAKAR 2.Contact Number- 9914793668 3.Artisan’s Address- Mohalla mochiya wala, Malerkotla, sangur, Punjab 4.Artisan’s Age- 35years 5.Artisan’s Sex : Male 6.Education level of artisan: Secondary 7.Languages known- Comprehend: Read & Write Punjabi and Hindi 8. Size of the family unit: Male (2) Female (2) Children below 13 yrs (2) 9. What craft are you associated with?- Jutti Making 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family?- 25-50yrs 11. Family members participating in craft Male (2), Female (2) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – Male (12hrs), Female (3-4hours) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: 3 – 6 months. 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts? No 15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft? November to January 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No

17. Are you a member of any of the following organisations? None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? No Give reasons for your choice ______because it is time consuming and wage is low. INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: Rs. 7500 – 10,000 ( yes ) From other source?____No 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling? Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you? Inherited In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: Mobile

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onTraditional Design, Latest Design, Market Demand Design (yes) Who gives the design? Own, Trader/Agent 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? Yes Dual lined upper Textured sole Zari ki lakeer 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? 41inch long jutti for a showroom decor Zari ki lakeer 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional?: yes If yes specify reason – Market Demand 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? Yes

34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Master craftsmen 35. Are you self employed - Yes 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth? Production & Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills?: No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? N.A 39. Do you need further training? N.A 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose 43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes If yes, specify _____________ to reach out to the customers easily. PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Self

45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing?: No If no, then give suggestions?..... would like to have increment for our products because it takes a lot of time to make a single pair of jutti. 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market & Far away markets 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials : No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials?: No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Directly to customers, melas & Festivals, Exports, Local Market, Trade fairs 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? : No

1.Artisan’s Name- Shabnam 2.Contact Number3.Artisan’s Address- Near islamia school, Malerkotla, sherwani kot, Sangrur, Punjab 4.Artisan’s Age-26years 5.Artisan’s Sex :Female 6.Education level of education?: Secondary 7.Languages known- Comprehend Read & Write :Punjabi and Hindi 8. Size of the family unit Male (2) Female (5) 9. What craft are you associated with? Jutti Making (embroidery) 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family? 10-25yrs 11. Family members participating in craft Male (2) Female (3) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – Male ( 12 hours), Female (3,4hours) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: 3 – 6 months 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts? No

15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft November, December and January 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations? none 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? No Give reasons for your choice __ No because it is time consuming and salary isn’t good. INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: Rs. 2500 – 5000 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you? Inherited In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: No

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onTraditional Design, Latest Design ,Market Demand Design Who gives the design? Own, Trader/Agent 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? embroidery with mirror work & bells zari work 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? No 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? No 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Skilled

35. Are you self employed - No If no, specify place _______with master craftsmen Julfkar in Malerkotla 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose 43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes If yes, specify : personal use & to look into new designs

PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Labour cost 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? No If no, then give suggestions : time is changing so increment is a must. 46. Where do you procure raw material from? 1) Local Market 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials : No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials? No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Dealers/Agent Network 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? No

1.Artisan’s Name- Heena Tabasam 2.Contact Number- +91 99147 93668 3.Artisan’s Address-Muhalla Mochiya, near Gurudwara Shahida, Malerkotla, Sangrur, Punjab 4.Artisan’s Age-32years 5.Artisan’s Sex :Female 6.Education level of education?: Secondary 7.Languages known- Comprehend- Read & Write: Punjabi and Hindi 8. Size of the family unit – Male (2) Female (2) Children (below 13 yrs) (2). 9. What craft are you associated with? Jutti Making (embroidery in jutti upper) 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family? 25-50yrs 11. Family members participating in craft - Male ( 4), Female ( 2) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – Male ( 12 hours), Female (6 hours) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: 3 – 6 months 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts? No

15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft November, December and January 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations? None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? No Give reasons for your choice __ No because it is time consuming and wants their children to highly educate. INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: Rs. 2500 – 5000 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you Inherited

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onTraditional Design, Latest Design, Market Demand Design Who gives designs? Own, Trader/Agent 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? embroidery with mirror work zari work 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? No 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? No 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Skilled

35. Are you self employed- No If no, specify place _______with master craftsmen Julfkar in Malerkotla 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth ? Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose 43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes If yes, specify _____________personal use and watch new designs.

PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Labour Cost 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? Yes 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials : No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials? No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Melas & Festivals, Dealers/Agent Network , Local Markets, Trade fairs 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? No 52. If yes, what are the main reasons? No

1.Artisan’s Name- Onkar 2.Contact Number-7837145252 3.Artisan’s Address-45A topkhana mod, Patiala Punjab 147001 4.Artisan’s Age-61years 5.Artisan’s Sex : Male 6.Education level of artisan: Secondary 7.Languages known- Hindi and punjabi: Read & Write 8.Size of the family unit – 17 people Male (4) Female (4) Children (below 13 yrs)(9) 1. What craft are you associated with? Jutti making 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family?: beyond 50 yrs 11. Family members participating in craft - Male ( 4), Female ( 4) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – Male ( 91 hours), Female (80hours) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: Throughout the year 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from this : No

15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft? December, January & February 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations?: None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? Yes Give reasons for your choice _____for continuation of the craft. NCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: More than Rs. 10000 From other source __No 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling Own house 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you: Inherited In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: Mobile

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onTraditional Design, Latest Design ,Market Demand Design Who gives the design? Own, Trader/Agent 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? embroidery with mirror work & bells zari work 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? No 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? No 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Skilled

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onTraditional, Latest Design & Market Demand Design Who gives the design? Own, Trader/Agent, Old Patterns, Designers 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? Kulfi jutti Block Heeled jutti 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? Yes If yes specify reason – Better pricing, Creative persuasion, Market Demand (yes) 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? Yes 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only Master craftsmen

35. Are you self employed - No With brands like punjala, and to local market and showrooms. 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth Production, Design, Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose 43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes

PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Trader/Agent, Raw Materials, Local Market Demand, Labour Cost 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? Yes 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market, Far away markets 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials: No 48. How can this problem be eliminated? Not applicable 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials?: No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Melas & Festivals, Dealers/Agent Network, Exports, Local Markets,Trade fairs 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products?: No 52. If yes, what are the main reasons?: Middlemen/Agent

1.Artisan’s Name- Vicky Kumar Dahliya 2.Contact Number- 7837145252 3.Artisan’s Address- House no 45 A topkhana more, district patiala 4.Artisan’s Age- 37 years 5.Artisan’s Sex- Male 6.Education level of education: Secondary 7.Languages known- Comprehend : read and write: Hindi & Punjabi 8. Size of the family unit – Male (4) Female (4) Children (below 13 yrs) (9) 9. What craft are you associated with? Punjabi jutti 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family? Beyond 50 yrs 11. Family members participating in craft - Male(4), Female (4) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week : male- 91 hrs , female-80hrs 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: Throughout the year 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts?: No 15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft December to February

16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? : No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations? None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? Yes Give reasons for your choice: To continue the craft and craftsmanship. INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: More than Rs. 10000 From other source: No 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you Inherited In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: Electronics (TV/Radio/Mixer/Grinder/Music System/etc) Mobile Gas Connection

MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onLatest Design Market Demand Design Who gives the design? Trader/Agent & Own 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? Yes 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years?: Kulfi Heeled jutti 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? Yes If yes specify reason – Creative persuasion and Market Demand 33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? Yes

34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Master craftsmen 35. Are you self employed - No If no, specify place: local markets of patiala and designer showrooms like punjala 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth? Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No training taken 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose

42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose 43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes If yes, specify : designs and innovation PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Trader/Agent, Raw Materials, Local Market Demand, Labour Cost 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? Yes 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market & Far away markets 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials? No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials? No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Melas & Festivals, Dealers/Agent Network, Exports, Local Markets, Trade fairs. 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? Yes 52. If yes, what are the main reasons? Middleman/Agent and Covid

1.Artisan’s Name- Rajkumar 2:Contact Number- 7837145252 3.Artisan’s Address- House no 45 A topkhana more, district patiala 4.Artisan’s Age- 41 5.Artisan’s Sex -Male 6.Education level of artisan- Secondary 7.Languages known-( Hindi, Punjabi )Read & Write 8. Size of the family unit – Male ( 4 ) Female ( 4 ) Children (below 13 yrs) (9) Total- 17 9.What craft are you associated with? Jutti making 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family? beyond 50 yrs 11. Family members participating in craft ?: 8 Male (4), Female (4) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – 91 hours Male ( 91hrs), Female ( 80hrs) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: Throughout the year 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts? No

15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft? December, January & February 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations? None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? Yes Give reasons for your choice __they are seeing how hard their parents work and its worth it if they can start their own showrooms INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS 19. Current monthly income of the artisan: More than Rs. 10000 20. Do you have a saving account in the: Bank ASSETS Dwelling Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you Inherited

In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: TV & mobile MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onMarket Demand Design Who gives the design? Trader/Agent, Designers 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? Kulfi Jutti Heeled Jutti 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? Yes If yes specify reason – Creative persuasion & Market Demand

33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? Yes 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Skilled 35. Are you self employed No If no, specify place- Local markets of Patiala and designer showrooms like Punjla 36. Which area would you like to strengthen for your growth? Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? No 42. Do you use Internet? Yes

43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Trader/Agent, Raw Materials ,Local Market Demand, Labour Cost 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? Yes 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market & Far away markets 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials? No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials? No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Melas & Festivals, Dealers/Agent Network, Exports, Local Markets, Trade fairs 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? No 52. If yes, what are the main reasons? Middlemen/Agent & covid

1.Artisan’s Name- Mohd. Sahil 2.Contact Number- 9914793668 3.Artisan’s Address- Mohalla mochiya wala, Malerkotla, sangur, Punjab 4.Artisan’s Age- 17years 5.Artisan’s Sex : Male 6.Education level of artisan: Secondary (student) 7.Languages known- Comprehend ______Read & Write______ Punjabi and Hindi 8. Size of the family unit – Male (4) Female (3) Children (below 13 yrs) (2). 9. What craft are you associated with? Jutti Making 10. For how many years the craft has been practiced by family? 5-10yrs 11. Family members participating in craft - Male (2), Female (2) 12. Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – Male (8hrs), Female (8hours) 13. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: 3 – 6 months 14. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts?: No

15. Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft? November, December & January or in wedding season. 16. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft? No 17. Are you a member of any of the following organizations? None 18. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? No Give reasons for your choice : want to study furthermore & the craft is time consuming and wage is low. INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Current monthly income of the artisan: Rs. 2500 – 5000 20. Do you have a saving account in the: No ASSETS Dwelling Own House 22. Type of House Pucca 23. If own house, did you Inherited

In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: None MEDICAL FACILITY Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? No Do you have health/ life insurance policy? No DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY Are you working onMarket Demand Design (yes) Who gives the design? Own, Trader/Agent 30. Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of any change of location? No 31. Have you developed any new products in last two years? Yes textures inside and outside the sole and backless juttis 32. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional? Yes On Market Demand

33. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products? Yes 34. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: Skilled 35. Are you self employed? No If no, specify place ___with his uncle Julfakar ji 36. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth Production, Design,Packaging,Marketing TRAINING 37. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? No 38. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? No 39. Do you need further training? No 40. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? Marketing 41. Do you know how to use Computer? Yes 42. Do you use Internet? Yes If yes, what do you use it for? Personal & Business Purpose

43. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? Yes If yes, specify ____ to reach out to the customers easily & watch new designs and new techniques on youtube. PRICING 44. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? Self 45. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing?: No If no, then give suggestions?..... would like to have increment for our products because it takes a lot of time to make a jutti 46. Where do you procure raw material from? Local Market, Nearby Markets, Far away markets 47. Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials : No 49. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials?: No MARKETING 50. How do you sell your products? Melas & Festivals,Local Markets, Trade fairs 51. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? No

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