Discover, Understand and Appreciate Do teenagers and tradition go together?
Mini Album of Folk Costumes Portugal
Portugal 2012 / 14
Portuguese Traditional Costumes
The ALENTEJO REGION OF PORTUGAL: Southern Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: The costume consists of a skirt, a shirt, a scarf, a hat, socks, apron and shoes.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION: The costume of the Alentejo woman has no special features, however, during large farm chores, they showed up all dressed up as the work they were performing, the olive harvesting, weeding or harvesting.
They also had the custom of wearing some kind of shorts with skirts, pinning him between the legs with a safety pin. Wore a red and yellow alloy cord, which they did and that held their skirts and stockings at once. The socks are usually brightly colored, leather shoes with laces, shirt striped cotton or the flowers, scarf and hat.
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AVEIRO Salineira REGION OF PORTUGAL: Beira litoral Northeast Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: Long skirt and blouse with laces on sleeves. A colourful, fringed, long shawl drawn from left to right. A brown woven wool apron known as sergilha. Black varnished slippers, without socks, and a *canastra in her hand.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION: The Salineira is a traditional figure in Aveiro. She used to carry a canastra on her head (65 – 75 kg of sea salt), from boats to the warehouses.
* Wicker basket.
3 canastra
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REGION OF PORTUGAL:
TRICANA
Northeast Portugal SET CONSISTING OF: A shawl with a silk trimming A black skirt of embroidered silk, with roundness until the ankle; A silk and coloured scarf tied at the front and at the back; A white blouse of fine cotton, with mirror and lace; Handmade, lace-trimmed, cotton, white stockings; Black low-heeled clogs When the Tricana went to the Romaria (traditional party), she used to take the shawl folded in her arm. When she went to the church, she used to wear it round her shoulders.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION "Tricana" was a quality of fabric, but later, the same word referred to the woman of the ordinary people who wore a garment made exactly with this fabric. The "Tricana" of 1870 was a woman whose parents were wealthy farmers, and tried to excel when she got dressed to go to any popular feast or to the church. It was the name by which a woman of the people in Coimbra region, but also in Aveiro, ﾃ考havo and Ovar was known until the beginning of the twentieth century.
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The AZORES
REGION OF PORTUGAL: The Azores islands SET CONSISTING OF: Women wear a sober black woollen costume which can be in dark blue. The costume consists of a cloak and hood with a serge skirt with rich trimmings on the lower half, a white pleated shirt with lace and inlays, an embroidered white linen apron, a bright headscarf of the same colour as the skirt and buckled. Men wear a black woollen suit comprised of onepiece pants with openings on the sides, a jacket trimmed in black, waistcoat, white linen shirt embroidered in blue, headdress made of black wool on the outside and red felt on the inside with flaps covering the back and black boots with red trimming
Background information: The most distinguished of the Azorean costume is unquestionably the cloak and cap, worn by rich women of the Island of S達o Miguel, the closest to the European continent. The traditional Capote and Capelo date from the 18th century and are now only worn at traditional festivals. Once an important producer of tea, tobacco, pineapple and oranges, the Azores islands have turned to livestock and tourism as their principal means of income.
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The BEIRA BAIXA
REGION OF PORTUGAL:
Castelo Branco Centre East Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: Women wear a black apron (with some traditional drawings); a yellow skirt; a red waistcoat and a white shirt; and some traditional clogs. Some people wear a white lace on their neck and a golden necklace with a traditional Portuguese heart.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION “Beira Baixa” is constituted by 13”municipalities”. Castelo Branco district: Belmonte, Castelo Branco, Covilhã, Fundão, Idanha-a-Nova, Oleiros, Penamacor, Proença-a-Nova, Sertã, Vila de Rei, Vila Velha de Ródão. Coimbra district: Pampilhosa da Serra. Santarém district: Mação.
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ESTREMADURA VARINA REGION OF PORTUGAL: Estremadura, West
SET CONSISTING OF: Small round hat made of black velvet, and with a feather of the same colour; a colourful scarf placed beneath the hat; blouse with floral themes; a flannel plaid skirt; culottes; an apron with stripes or simple; two petticoats, one of cloth lined and the other with stripes and finally beneath the hat they had a black veil. BACKGROUND INFORMATION: “Varina” is the name given to the women who used to sell fresh fish in a “canastra”*door to door.
* Wicker basket.
Canastra
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The MADEIRA Island
REGION OF PORTUGAL: Archipelago of Madeira, west of Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: Generally speaking, women a multicoloured striped skirt, a white blouse, a red bodice and a colourful head covering complete this traditional outfit. Men wear white suits with bright sashes and country caps called "barrete de orelhas" (woollen caps with ear flaps). Both men and women wear short sheepskin boots (botas de cano).
BACKGROUND INFORMATION The origin and evolution of the Madeira traditional costume is not defined yet. It is thought that it had various influences either national or foreign (this includes the North of Portugal, Moors, Africa or Flanders). Regional dances often tell stories of day-to-day activities: the harvest and transportation of grapes (of wheat in Porto Santo) and other labours. The group dance to the sound of music played on native instruments such as the raj達o, machete, braquinha and viola. The beat is always kept by a "brinquinho" an instrument that comprises of a stick covered with puppets that have castanets attached to their backs.
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Minho REGION OF PORTUGAL: Viana do Castelo (Minho) in the North of Portugal. Lavradeira costume
SET CONSISTING OF: The base layer is a linen chemise, camisa, with blue floral satin-stitch embroidery on the front, the shoulders, upper sleeves and cuffs. There is a band of smocking at the top of the sleeve as well. The skirt, saia, is made of heavy wool or linen. If of wool, it has a background colour of either red or blue/green, with narrow stripes of other colours widely spaced. It may be left plain or it may have embroidery which matches the black part of the bodice.
A kerchief is worn on the head. A similar scarf is worn on the shoulders for the Lavradeira costume. They come in various colours, but they have mostly the same design. The apron, avental, is hand-woven of thick wool; designs are formed by pulling small loops of yarn out, so that the design stands out from the background. It is double gathered in the same way as the skirt. There is a separate bodice, colete, which is always sewn in two parts. The upper part is of the major colour of the outfit, red, blue, or green, and the lower part is black. There is usually an ornament in the shape of a heart.
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A separate pocket, algibeira, is worn with this costume. It is embroidered and is in the form of a stylized heart. While this is decorative it has a practical purpose in carrying keys, wallets, handkerchiefs, etc.
Backless slippers with a low heel, chinelas, are worn, or like many peasants all over Europe they often go barefoot. These may be plain or embroidered. Knit stockings are worn with the chinelas. There also exist stockings without feet, which may be worn when barefoot or with the slippers. The lavradeira costume is not complete without an abundance of gold jewellery.
Background information: Bright and vivid colours are a peculiar feature of Portuguese national clothes. In Minho region women prefer bouffant long skirts made of striped or checkered. The red version is considered to be the 'happy' version, and is worn by younger women. The blue or green versions are worn in times of semi-mourning or other sadness, such as the absence of a loved one, and by older women.
The red or blue costume was indifferently used by the girls, but when they married almost always said goodbye to red and started using only blue. There is usually a line of embroidery, trim or braid along the seam, and varying amounts of embroidery on the bodice. An amazing variety exists, from quite simple to very colourful and busy.
in http://folkcostume.blogspot.pt/2013/04/costume-de-lavradeira-viana-do-castelo.html
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PAULITEIRO DE MIRANDA REGION OF PORTUGAL: - Miranda; Northeast Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: Waistcoat in burel* (thick woollen cloth: tweed), embroidered with needlework retail, shirt (cotton or linen), cotton white skirts trimmed with English embroidery. Over the skirts: 4 scarves. Woollen socks, boots, hat trimmed with flowers and two wooden sticks. * Burel is a very durable wool-fabric whose production belongs to an old handicraft typical in the Portuguese mountains Serra da Estrela
Background information Pauliteiros de Miranda is the name given to groups of 8 men who dance traditional rhythms of Miranda in northeast Portugal, Tras-os-Montes. One supposes that the use of these skirts by men has Celtic or Roman origins. The shape of this skirt and hat trimmed with flowers had also led to the analysis that this costume could have already been used in celebrations of summer solstice with markedly pagan roots. 11
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NAZARÉ REGION OF PORTUGAL: Nazaré, West Portugal
SET CONSISTING OF: Nazarene woman Working women wore several petticoats: first a white one, above this 2 or 3 colourful flannel petticoats, a pocket, one cashmere or terylene petticoat, above all a dark-colour apron with pockets, a simple blouse, headscarf, shawl and mules. However, it was during the feast days that the Nazarene woman showed all her elegance as well as the richness of her family; wearing white under petticoat, above this, several colourful petticoats (the famous 7 full petticoats), covered by a satin apron artistically embroidered, a flowery blouse with lace sleeves, headscarf, black cape, varnish mules, and a gold chain and earrings. Nazarene man The men wore tartan shirts and tartan trousers with a black band wrapped around the waist and a black wool stocking-cap. In the working costume the fishermen wore tartan breeches, pleated and large, with wool strings on the hem, so that men could wear it loose, tight or tucked up, according to their needs. Neither the trousers nor the shirts had pockets and the personal objects were kept inside the stocking-cap. Usually the fishermen walked barefooted. Background information The feminine costume was used either for working or for festivity days, it reflects the woman’s personality, but it is also adapted to her daily work - preparation, selling and drying of the fish. Thus, being practical, functional and protector against the cold and the sea breeze, allowing, at the same time, free movements but keeping the women always covered and “decent”. The fishermen costume was adapted to the conditions of the sea, offering freedom of movements, being simultaneously light and warm. 12
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Researched and written by the students involved in the Comenius project Discover, Understand and Appreciate 2012-2014 at Escola Básica Integrada de Eixo. André Nogueira Catarina Lima Diana Rita Almeida Paul Apolinário Raquel Morgado Maira Casimiro Adriana Oliveira RebecaValente Jéssica Menino Inês Teixeira Sofia Proença Ruben Menino Beatriz Marques Mariana Moreira Inês Moreira Ana Carolina Marcelino Barbara Terceiro Luna Morgado
We would like to thank the students in the pictures Maira Casimiro and António Ramos.
REFERENCE LIST Photos available at http://folcloredamadeira.wordpress.com/2010/02/10/trajes-regionais-portugueses-ofertada-maquina-de-costura-oliva/ http://www.prof2000.pt/users/avcultur/postais/Trajestipicos09.htm http://folkcostume.blogspot.pt/2013/04/costume-de-lavradeira-viana-do-castelo.html
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