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M OR ES P ROJE CT A R T E FA C T S I N P E R S O N A L T I M E K E E P I N G
Manisha Laroia | Product Design | Graduation Project | 2011-2015
Copyright Š 2015 Student document publication meant for private circulation only. All rights reserved. Bachelor of Design, Product Design, 2011-15 National institute of Design, Ahmedabad, India. No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means including photocopying, xerography, photography and videography recording without written permission from the publisher, Manisha Laroia and National Institute of Design. All illustrations and photographs in this document are Copyright Š2015 by respective people/organizations. Edited and designed byManisha Laroia manisha706@gmail.com Processed at National Institute of Design (NID) Paldi, Ahmedabad - 380007 Gujurat, India. www.nid.edu Printed digitally in Ahmedabad, India. November, 2015
ORIGINALITY STATEMENT I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and it contains no full or substantial copy of previously published material, or it does not even contain substantial proportions of material which have been accepted for the award of any other degree or final graduation of any other educational institution, except where due acknowledgement is made in this graduation project. Moreover I also declare that none of the concepts are borrowed or copied without due acknowledgement. I further declare that the intellectual content of this graduation project is the product of my own work, except to the extent that assistance from others in the project’s design and conception or in style, presentation and linguistic expression is acknowledged. This graduation project (or part of it) was not and will not be submitted as assessed work in any other academic course. Student Name in Full: MANISHA LAROIA Date: 9th November, 2015
COPYRIGHT STATEMENT I hereby grant the National Institute of Design the right to archive and to make available my graduation project/thesis/dissertation in whole or in part in the Institute’s Knowledge Management Centre in all forms of media, now or hereafter known, subject to the provisions of the Copyright Act. I have either used no substantial portions of copyright material in my document or I have obtained permission to use copyright material. Student Name in Full: MANISHA LAROIA Date: 9th November, 2015
Time is more than just a number!
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
PREFACE ABOUT THE GRADUATION PROJECT The Graduation Project is the final academic project for the student, marking the end of the students’ academic tenure at the National Institute of Design. It is marked by the culmination of a substantial investigation in the field of design on a topic closely allied to their discipline of study. It is through the graduation project and subsequent documentation of the same that this investigation takes place. The graduation project is an opportunity for students to demonstrate their expertise as independent practitioners of design. It should reflect the thought leadership manifested through creativity and innovation. The project should lead to new knowledge creation and should align with broader objectives of the institute. My graduation project, The Mores Project, was done at the Titan Company, consummating in a range of tangible artefacts i.e. a collection of four Watches, in Personal Timekeeping.
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The project is the result of the collective efforts of various people and I am grateful to each one of them for their support. I am grateful to the Titan Company for giving me the opportunity to work on a project on Watches; something I have been longing for since my first year at NID. My special thanks to Mahendra Chauhan for his unrelenting mentorship; inspiring me, critiquing and challenging me at every step to help bring this project to fruit. I thank the engineering team for coming to my rescue each time an idea failed and help set it working, specially Saravanan and Sivashankar.
Factory; for they stepped in at crucial points in the project offering their expertise. I specially thank Nalayapan Sir, Narasimha Murthy, Sundar Raj, Shruti, Malvika and Chetan. My fellow interns at Titan, Anupreeta, Sharwari, Shailendra, Annu, Harveen and Tanisha for all the laughs, the coffee breaks and the sleepy afternoons we shared. I am grateful, to my Aunt and Uncle for hosting me during the project duration and supporting me through the project in numerous ways. Their warm presence kept me going.
My special thanks to Praveen Nahar, for guiding me through the project. I thank him for not just the project duration but for the guidance he has offered me throughout my years at NID; giving me the freedom to explore and offering new ways to approach design situations in various scenarios.
Saumya for her craziness and much needed support. Rupesh Arvindakshan and Gourab Kar for their wise words. Special thanks to the Product Design Batch 2012 and the whole of the UG Batch 2011 for sailing in the same boat and sharing each others experiences. Also, the Product Design Discipline and the Faculty for all the learning.
I am grateful to the team at the R&D facility, team at Innovedge facility, the design team and the team at the Titan Watch
Lastly, thanking my Maa, Paa and Nipun for being my core support system.
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
CONTENTS
THE BACKGROUND
PART 1 : GROUND WORK
PART 2 : BUILDING STORIES
PREFACE
02
MIND MAP
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2.1 WHAT IF...
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
03
1.1 A BRIEF HISTORY OF TIMEKEEPING
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BRAINSTORMING MAP
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ABOUT NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN
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1.2 WHY WATCHES?
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2.2 FOUR STORIES
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ABOUT PRODUCT DESIGN
08
1.3 DECODING THE WRISTWATCH
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STORY ONE: NON-WATCH
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ABOUT TATA GROUP
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1.4 WATCH WORKS
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STORY TWO: PERSONAL TIME
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ABOUT THE SPONSOR - TITAN COMPANY
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1.5 WATCH COMPOSITION
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STORY THREE: LIVING WATCH
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SYNOPSIS
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1.6 WATCH, HOW IT’S MADE
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STORY FOUR: CUBIC TIME
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TIMELINE
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1.7 WATCH WORLD
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2.3 SURVIVAL
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INITIAL DESIGN BRIEF
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1.8 BRAND STAND
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1.9 WATCH-O-SCOPE
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
PART 3 : THE CONCEPT
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PART 4 : OBJECTS OF TIME
THE TAIL END
FINAL DESIGN BRIEF
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4.1 FOUR WATCHES
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TIME AHEAD
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3.1 QUALITY V/S QUANTITY
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4.2 WATCH 1: MORES HOUR
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LOOKING BACK
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3.2 IT IS MORE THAN A NUMBER
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4.3 WATCH 2: MORES CODE
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REFERENCES
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3.3 WHY SO PERSONAL?
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4.4 WATCH 3: MORES MARK
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3.4 INITIAL SKETCHES
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4.5 WATCH 4: MORES CLASSIC
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3.5 THE FORMULA
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Image source : http://www.nid.edu/institute/history-background
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN HISTORY On April 7, 1958, the Eameses presented the India Report to the Government of India. The Eames Report defined the underlying spirit that would lead to the founding of NID and beginning of design education in India. Based on the recommendations made in the India Report, the Government of India with the assistance of the Ford Foundation and the Sarabhai family established the National Institute of Industrial Design, as it was originally called as an autonomous all-India body in September 1961 at Ahmedabad.
NID is recognized by the Dept. of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organization. NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership.
ABOUT The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi-disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. NID has been declared ‘Institution of National Importance’ by the Act of Parliament, by virtue of the National Institute of Design Act 2014.
It offers 8 undergraduate design courses and 19 graduate design courses, spread over three campuses in three cities namely Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar and Bengaluru.
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Product Design Studio | September 2014 | Photograph by Burhan ud din Khateeb 8
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
PRODUCT DESIGN Product design is concerned primarily with the relationship between products, systems and those who use them. The Product Design programme at NID inculcates user-centric approach and processes. Responsibility and concern towards the social, physical and ecological environments is emphasized in the process of developing innovative ideas.
Design projects can be broadly classified into domains of: - Design for industry - Design for quality of life - Design for healthcare - Design for social impact - Design for sustainability - Design led futures
The Product Design programme assimilates inputs in diverse domains such as human factors, cognitive ergonomics, form studies, studio skills, advanced CAD (Computer Aided Design), research methods, design management, materials & manufacturing processes & social sciences. Emphasis is on process centric approach which shapes a student’s education through participation and teamwork. Design projects form the core of a product designer’s education, with gradual increase in level of complexity and cover broad areas that product designers are likely to encounter in their professional careers. Students are actively encouraged to participate in collaborative projects with industrial houses, social sectors, government & MNCs. 9
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
The 87-year-old Bombay House, the corporate headquarters of the Tata Group. Image Source: http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/opinion/the-new-house-that-tata-built/article2656766.ece
TATA GROUP Founded by Jamsetji Tata in 1868, the Tata group is a global enterprise, headquartered in India, comprising over 100 independent operating companies. The group operates in more than 100 countries across six continents, with a mission ‘To improve the quality of life of the communities we serve globally, through long-term stakeholder value creation based on Leadership with Trust’. Tata Sons is the principal investment holding company and promoter of Tata companies. Sixty-six percent of the equity
the salt to software conglomerate, is the parent company to titan. share capital of Tata Sons is held by philanthropic trusts, which support education, health, livelihood generation and art and culture. In 2014-15, the revenue of Tata companies, taken together, was $108.78 billion. These companies collectively employ over 600,000 people. Each Tata company or enterprise operates independently under the guidance and
supervision of its own board of directors and shareholders. There are 29 publicly-listed Tata enterprises with a combined market capitalization of about $134 billion (as on March 31, 2015). Tata companies with significant scale include: - Tata Steel - Tata Motors - Tata Consultancy Services - Tata Power - Tata Chemicals - Tata Global Beverages - Tata Teleservices - Titan - Tata Communications - Indian Hotels.
Information Source: www.tata.com 11
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
The Ladies classic watch was the 1st Watch to be rolled out of the Hosur factory in 1987 Image source: http://tata.com/company/articlesinside/zhRSC!$$$$!Em76Q=/TLYVr3YPkMU=
The light powered watch range HTSE Image Source: http://tata.com/company/articlesinside/zhRSC!$$$$!Em76Q=/TLYVr3YPkMU=
Glam gold collection by Tanishq Image source: http://www.jewelsome.com/tag/tanishq-glam-gold/
Titan Edge skeleton, the slimmest Watch with a titanium case Image source: https://www.touchofmodern.com/sales/titan-edge-0f2c0987-7d76-47cc-b9b4-014ef2a5a213
TITAN COMPANY ABOUT THE SPONSOR Titan Company Ltd. (formerly Titan Industries Ltd. and Titan Watches Ltd.) is the organization that brought about a paradigm shift in the Indian watch market when it introduced its futuristic quartz technology, complemented by international styling. titan is the world’s fifth largest wrist watch manufacturer and exports watches to nearly 32 countries around the world. It has India’s two most recognized and loved brands Titan and Tanishq to its credit. It is backed by over 6,000 employees, two exclusive design studios for watches and jewelery, 9 manufacturing units, and innumerable admirers. HISTORY The success story began in 1984 with a joint venture between the Tata Group and the Tamil Nadu Industrial Development Corporation with the vision of Xerxes Desai and his team. It 13
became the third Indian watch manufacturer after HMT and Allwyn. Titan formed a joint venture with Timex Group, which lasted until 1998, to set up a distribution network across India. Presenting Titan quartz watches, Titan Industries transformed the Indian watch market. Titan Industries Ltd. changed its name and corporate identity to Titan Company Ltd. in August 2013, after 25 years, to more closely reflect the range of lifestyle products the company sells and plans to sell. BRAND PORTFOLIO Titan Watches accounts for more than 60% share of the total Indian market and are also sold in about 32 countries. Titan has claimed to have manufactured the world’s slimmest wrist watch branded as Titan Edge with a total thickness of 3.5 mm and a movement of 1.15 mm. In July 2011, Titan launched the HTSE (High Technology Self Energizer) collection of watches which run on light. These watches can be charged with as low as 200 lux of light, which makes them chargeable with light even from a candle. In 2011, Titan Industries acquired Swiss watch maker Favre-Leuba.
Sonata Watches is a value brand of functionally styled watches at affordable prices for the common man. Fastrack is its third brand, reaching out to the youth segment with trendy and chic watches and accessories. It has in its portfolio a range of watches, bags, wallets, helmets and sunglasses. With a license for premium fashion watches of
the company is divided into four divisions: watches & accessories, jewelery, eyewear and precision engineering. global brands, Titan Industries repeated its pioneering act and brought international brands into Indian market introducing the Swiss made watches – Xylys. Titan also markets 20+ top international watch brands through it leading watch retail stores called Helios. Entering the largely fragmented Indian jewelery market with no known brands in 1995, Titan launched Tanishq, one of the Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Image source: http://www.xylyswatches.com/
Precision Engineering division of Titan was started in 2002 to manufacture parts for automotive and aerospace Industries. The product range includes pointers, dashboard clusters like fuel gauge, temperature gauge, gear shift indicators, clocks, injection molded plastic parts, electromechanical assemblies for automobiles and press tool, molds, jigs, fixtures for other
The company has sold 135 million watches world over and manufactures 13 million watches every. year. industries. In March 2007, Titan entered the Prescription Eyewear segment under the brand name Titan Eye+. Titan has set up its own lens manufacturing lab at Chikkaballapur, Bengaluru. In September 2013, Titan unveiled the everyday French Luxury Perfume line, Skinn. 14
RETAIL The company has over 331 exclusive ‘World of Titan’ showrooms and over 83 Fastrack stores. It also has a large network of over 700 after sales-service centers. Titan Industries is also the largest jewelery retailer in India with over 130 Tanishq boutiques and Zoya stores, over 31 Gold Plus stores. It also sports over 204 Titan Eye+ stores, Altogether, India’s largest retail network. Information Source:Titan Official Website http://www.titan.co.in/company-profile
Bags and wallets by Fastrack
Fastrack Image Source: http://fastrack.in/
largest jewelery brand in India. Gold Plus, the later addition, focuses on the preferences of semi-urban and rural India. Completing the jewelery portfolio is Zoya, the latest retail chain in the luxury segment.
Watches by Fastrack
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015 Fastrack sunglasses collection- SPRINGERS
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
SYNOPSIS
The project centers around designing a range of analogue Watches on the concept of ‘Personal Time’, incorporating physical interactions and keeping intact the innate features of a Watch. The process involved gathering information from trend studies, analysis of the Watch industry, and understanding the associated materials and manufacturing processes. It also involved studying the relationship between Time and People and the associated personal and cultural perception of time, thus exploring the qualitative aspect of Time. Based on the derived inferences, an interactive and quirky collection of Watches was designed. The project was in many ways an experiment in Personal Timekeeping and Time-based artefacts.
Some key questions that arose through the project were: [1] Could one revive the ‘emotional relevance’ of a Watch which is dying with the infusion of numerous short-lived and Smart Watches in the market? [2] Could one imbibe into conventional Watches, ‘the touch factor’ which is innate to modern electronic devices, thus bringing the intimacy? [3] Could one make ‘time personal’ in a world where everyday objects are getting more and more personalized? The project has been an attempt to answer these questions and to offer to Titan a new approach and a new scope in the field of Quartz Watches.
The process of designing the Watch artefacts involved using the existing quartz mechanisms, hacking them, retaining the watch-ness of the object and building on them a new function and a new interaction. 17
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
TIMELINE Delineating a timeline is crucial for any project as it helps clearly define the tasks to be done. It helps in tracking ones progress during the project duration. The project timeline shown below is an estimated timeline, because there was a lot of going back and forth between the various phases of the project. The project was divided into four parts as shown in the Contents, with defined sub-parts. The timeline indicates the duration for each part and the occasional overlaps in transition from one part to the next.
MONTH / WORK
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
PART ONE : GROUND WORK PART TWO : BUILDING STORIES PART THREE : THE CONCEPT GUIDE VISIT PART FOUR : OBJECTS OF TIME DOCUMENTATION
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Making the 4 Watches
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
INITIAL DESIGN BRIEF The Initial Design brief was offered by the sponsor, Titan. The project catered to the Titan Watches division of the company. The brief was fairly open ended and flexible to re-defining. It was studied, questioned and re-interpreted to define a final design brief post the ground work stage. The Initial Design Brief was as follows: • Finding new trends of Watch designs which will be relevant for another 2-3 years. •
Identifying and interviewing people and determining consumer traits and conceptualizing concept proposals.
•
Designing few timepieces for Titan’s existing/new consumer segments.
•
Creating 3d models/rapid prototypes to check feasibility of the concepts.
•
Project will revolve around insight mining, ideation, concepts proposals and working prototypes.
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The PROJECT PROCESS is illustrated in the mind map that follows on the next page. It started off with putting down all the different routes that would be taken to understand Watches, the Watch industry and the trends circumventing it. Simultaneously, the relationship between cultures, people’s behavior and Time was also explored. The aim was to diverge along different thought processes in order to gather information and make new connections. This was followed by an intensive brainstorming process, converging to generate an eclectic, core concept for a new range of Watches.
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
1 GROUND WORK The ground work is the necessary research and analysis work that went into the project, before streamlining all efforts into a particular direction. Each question that was raised and guided the research has been transformed into a sub-part of Part 1 of the project. Each sub-part hence forth outlines the research question and the findings.
1.1
1.2
A BRIEF HISTORY OF TIMEKEEPING
WHY WATCHES?
How did the Watch become what it is today? What were the key factors in defining the Watch of today? Where is timekeeping heading to?
Why do people buy/own Watches? What does a Watch tell about its bearer? Where does the Watch stand as a product in the social context of things?
1.6
1.7
WATCH, HOW IT’S MADE What are the different manufacturing techniques used? How does the Watch manufacturing system work?
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WATCH WORLD What is the world scenario of the Watch Industry? Where does Titan stand in the Watch Industry?
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
1.3
1.4
1.5
DECODING THE WRISTWATCH
WATCH WORKS
WATCH COMPOSITION
What is inside a Watch? What do the Watch terms mean?
How does a Watch keep time? What are the different types of Watch mechanisms? How are the Watch mechanism and the offered utilitarian features related?
What are the different materials used in Watch-making? What are the factors that define material selection?
1.8
1.9
BRAND STAND
WATCH-O-SCOPE
What is Titan brand position in the Watch Market? What are the different kinds of Watches that Titan makes? What are Titan’s strengths and weakness in comparison to its competitors?
Where is the Watch Industry headed? What are the new explorations done in Watches? What are the types of methods used in Timekeeping, other than Watches?
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
1.1
A Brief History of Timekeeping EARLY TIMEKEEPING Time as we know today is measured by a system developed by the Samaritans, later used by the Babylonians which is Sexagesimal system which has its numerical basis as 60. The earliest Time-keeping devices were dependent on the sun and the shadow it formed called Sundials. There were many other Time-keeping instruments made such as the Water Clock by the Egyptians and the human clock in ancient India called ‘gahriyallis’. These were the first few methods independent of celestial events and measured only hours. Plato developed the first alarm clock using a Water Clock and a bell. The water in the clocks was later replace by mercury. Candle clocks were also developed based on the duration of melting of the wax. The first clock makers were Christian monks, and they used the bell clock in cathedrals. Galileo Galilei experimented with the pendulum to develop the system of Timekeeping related to oscillations. Christiaan Huygens invented the first pendulum clock in 1600s. The pocket watch was invented by the German Nazi Peter Henlin, replacing the pendulum with a balance ring, which was also invented by Christiaan Huygens himself. 25
ADOPTION OF THE WRISTWATCH The 16th through 18th centuries are dotted with accounts of international nobility like Queen Elizabeth I and the Empress Josephine commissioning, gifting, and wearing bracelets affixed with watches, (Image 1.1A) and the focus on luxury and novelty rather than utility. the 1st wristwatch was made by breguet for caroline murat, the sister of napoleon bonaparte and the queen of naples, in 1812.
Image 1.1A- 1868 Patek Philippe Bracelet Watch
Top horologists agree that prior to the First World War, Wristwatches throughout the world were worn almost exclusively by women, save for some rare military uses. Wristwatches were feminine and men carried pocket watches only. Men wearing wristwatches were socially looked down upon. Many discussions of the origin of the men’s Wristwatch speak about the convertible Watches that emerged during the First and Second Boer Wars. These were essentially pocket watches temporarily secured in leather bands and worn on Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
the wrist. They were designed to allow officers, on cavalry, to more conveniently time their firing and had the benefit that a man could wear his Watch on his wrist when circumstances demanded, and then return it to his pocket.(Image 1.1B) The United States, was the first country to see widespread adoption of the Wristwatch among men. The war changed the perception that Wristwatches weren’t for men. It was difficult to hold a pocket watch in one hand, time a shot and shoot with the gun. The Wristwatch was a convenient and a hands-free option. Many officers recognized the drawbacks of using an officially issued pocket Watch and purchased their own Wristwatches. Civilians started seeing men home on leave, wearing Wristwatches. After the war ,men who were demobilized continued to wear the Wristwatch they had worn on active service and this gradually changed the fashion. The Wristwatch thus became first an acceptable, and later an essential, men’s accessory. Seeing, the battle hardened veterans wearing their Wristwatches changed the public perception that wearing a Wristwatch was not manly, and sales of Wristwatches to the man-in-the-street took off.
Image 1.1C- Watch advertisements Post WWI
But there were many against it. The advertisement (Image 1.1C) focuses on the importance of upgrading one’s watch to keep with the times. More importantly, each advertisement in the series is very clear about the fact that women should upgrade to “The woman’s Wrist watch” and encourages men to upgrade to “The man’s watch,” which clearly refers to the pocket watch depicted. Watch companies on the contrary also started promoting Wristwatches as a man’s accessory. Once the Wristwatch became popular amongst men it came to be defined not as a jewelery piece but “a small clock worn on the wrist. A Wristwatch is a combination of bracelet and clock” and “not only the fact of being worn on the arm, but also the manner of reading the time, is definitive for the Wristwatch: quick and simple, with the movement of bending the arm.”
Image 1.1D- First Cartier wristwatch made for a Pilot
FROM NOVELTY TO BOURGEOIS The history of watchmaking, especially as told by collectors, tends to focus on jeweled Watches like those made by Waltham and Elgin which were manufactured for precision, durability, and style. By 1900, in America, three large the 1st men’s wristwatch was made by cartier for a brazilian pilot, starting the trend of aviatior and military men watches.(image 1.1d) companies, Ingersoll, Waterbury, and New Haven Clock co. were making Watches that retailed for about a dollar, in enormous quantities.(Image 1.1E) A large portion of the population could not afford the level of quality and precision offered by Elgin and Waltham and opted for cheaper Watches made by the likes of Ingersoll.
post the world war i, the wristwatch transformed from a symbol of femininity to a man’s most cherished accessory.
Image 1.1B- Wristlets 26
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
Image 1.1E- Ingersoll Dollar Watches
Image 1.1F- HMT Pilot
INDIAN WATCH HISTORY In India, HMT was synonymous with Watches, passed down from one generation to another, gifted by parents to their children on matriculation or graduation. Launched in 1961 in collaboration with Japan’s Citizen Watch Co. as part of the government’s efforts to build a modern India, the brand was aptly designated “Timekeepers to the Nation”. (Image 1.1F) Although the company expanded, it couldn’t keep pace with the changing times. The Wristwatch, from the time of its acceptance, underwent a series of changes to become what it is today. With changes in time, craftsmanship, cultures and technology the Wristwatch kept transforming and still is. They transformed from round dials to other geometries, thick to thin, simple to complicated and from analog to digital. The story of timekeeping is in many ways simultaneous with the story of Wristwatches and wearables; and the culture that they create.
Information Source Research paper on Medium by Aaron Wilson https://medium.com/@w/the-wristwatch-revisitedfc9a0a4b99e 27
Image 1.1G- Swatch Watches promoted as Watches for all
Source video 1 The history of keeping time - Karen Mensing https://www.youtube.com/ watch?t=8&v=74I0M0RKNIE
Source video 2 TimeLine - A Brief Introduction To The History Of Timekeeping Devices https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At5atF4mKiU Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
1.2
Why Watches? The word Watch comes from the image of foremen: people in charge of making others sweat and move their hands/legs for fixed intervals. Those alpha men who stood in front of a group of betas and yelled at them when they didn’t work hard enough. A Watch is where one goes when one wants to know how the universe works and where one stands within it. A big, luxurious Watch is us telling ourselves: ‘We have caught a piece of the universe and affixed it to our radius and ulna.’ * The Watch has become a symbol of ones status i.e.,where one stands in society in terms of power and wealth. It is also a symbol of ones aspirations i.e., what one visions for oneself. Watches have been celebrated for their precision and craftsmanship. These tiny machines guide people to effectively utilize their time, make accurate calculations and judgments and frankly, show one the time one has left. But for people, Watches have a secondary layer of utility which is based on its
in other words, watches are an indicator of who we are, what we want and how we want the world to see us. 29
cost, brand and aesthetics. It is only rightful to see Watches not just as accurate, functional products but also as Lifestyle products. The stories behind Watches have been based on these functional and lifestyle needs of people. Watches for Utility -Timing tasks -Precision -Multiple functions -Navigation -Measurements -Communication -Keep systems working together(railway clock) Watches for Lifestyle -Luxury Watches -Watches as Accessories(dress watches) -Performance Watches (divers, mountaineers, racers) -Profession specific Watches (work wear, pilots, doctors) -Gifting Watches -Collecting Watches(aficionados, connoisseurs) -Celebration watches(craftsmanship, victory)
On the left page is illustrated the relationship between People and Watches based on my observations of people and conversations with them. It was drawn out after talking to people and studying Watch brand stories, finding answers to the following questions: Why do people buy Watches? What are the kind of Watches do specific types of people buy? What are the different types of Consumers? What are the different types of Watches?
Information Source: *THE WORD WATCH DEFINITION https://medium.com/human-parts/on-the-size-of-our-watchesaa86ec6f2f05 Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
FOUR
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QUESTIONS
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
QUESTION ONE Could one revive the ‘emotional relevance’ of a Watch which is dying with the infusion of numerous short-lived Watches & other timekeeping devices in the market?
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Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Opening up a Watch at the Innovedge Facility at Titan. 32
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
1.3
Decoding the Wristwatch The next step was to understand the product, its architecture and its parts. The best way to understand a product is to rip it apart and decode its hidden secrets. On the adjacent page, is shown a disassembled quartz Wristwatch, and marked out are the specific Watch parts. Below, is a brief description of the different Watch parts found in most Watches, followed by few important watch terms and their corresponding images. [1] CASE ASSEMBLY It is an assembled unit consisting of various components, that is the Case center, Bezel Ring, Case Back, Crystal and Gaskets. It protects the Watch movement from dust, moisture and shocks. It is also the most important part which is styled and determines the aesthetic quality of a Watch. There are three types of Construction: - Two Piece Case Construction: The unit consists of Two Basic Components which are the Case Centre & Back Cover. (Image 1.3A) - Three Piece Case Construction: The unit consists of Three 33
Components which are Bezel Ring, Case Centre & Back Cover. - Multipiece Case Construction [2] CASE BACK The underside of a Watch that lies against the skin. Some Case Backs are made of crystal allowing you to view the watch movement. It facilitates replacement of the battery and repair of components inside. Back covers are classified as Snap type(Press fit), Threaded type, Screw type(Using screws) Image 1.3A shows Press fit Back Cover. [3] CASE The container that protects the Watch movement. It also gives the Watch an attractive appearance. Cases come in many shapes, round, square, oval, tonneau and rectangular. The most common materials used for Case center are Stainless Steel, Brass, Gold, Aluminum, Plastic and Titanium. Image 1.3A shows a round stainless steel case.
[4] LUG Sometimes referred to as horns, lugs are projections on the Watch case that are used to secure the strap or bracelet to the Watch case.(Image 1.3A) [5] CRYSTAL/GLASS A transparent cover that protects the Watch dial. Crystals are made of glass, plastic or synthetic sapphire. -Mineral Crystals, (image 1.3A) -Acrylic Crystals & Sapphire Crystals [6] GASKET Most water-resistant Watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case-back, crystal and crown from water infiltration. (Image 1.3A) Gaskets should be checked every couple of years to maintain water resistance. Materials generally used are synthetics Hytrel, Zytel, Arnitel, Polyacetol and NBR (Nytrel Butadene Rubber) Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
IMAGE 1.3A : QUARTZ WRISTWATCH DISASSEMBLY LUG O-RING/ GASKET
CASE BACK
CASE CENTRE
MOVEMENT HOLDER
DIAL
I-GASKET
CRYSTAL
SPRING BAR
HANDS
SCREWS
GEAR TRAIN
CLAMPS & BRIDGES BASE PLATE
QUARTZ CRYSTAL & PCB COILING FOR STEPPER MOTOR
LEATHER STRAP
34
BATTERY
CROWN & STEM
BUCKLE Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
Base Plate
Motor Coiling & Hands
[7] MOVEMENT The inner mechanism of a watch that keeps time and powers the Watch’s functions.(Image 1.3A shows disassembled quartz movement, details in the next section) [8] SPRING BAR : A spring loaded metal bar mounted between the case lugs used to attach a strap or bracelet. [9] MOVEMENT HOLDER It is to secure the Movement with Dial inside the Case and acts as a Shock absorber in case of an accidental fall or when the Watch is subjected to impact during normal wear. It is made out of plastic material - Polyacetol or Duracon, made out of metal and in a few cases , there is no need to have a movement holder since the movement itself acts as a movement holder. (Image 1.3A) [10] CROWN A button, often fluted, on the outside of the Watch case used to wind the mainspring in mechanical watches. It is also used to set the time, when pulled out, and for setting a Watch calendar. A screw-down crown is used to make the Watch more water resistant and to help keep out dust. Crowns are made out of watch case materials.(Image 1.3A) 35
Quartz crystal & PCB
Crown & stem
Gear parts
[11] DIAL : A plate, with a metal base and visible through a crystal, that carries certain indication, such as the hours, minutes and sometimes seconds. It is made of metal, mostly Brass or plastic. Image 1.3A shows a Brass dial.
[14] BUCKLE : Buckle is a component which is mounted on the strap for locking the watch on the wrist and are usually made out of stainless steel, aluminium and plastic. Image 1.3A shows a stainless steel buckle with gold electroplating.
[12] HANDS : The indicator that moves over the dial to point at the hour, minute or second. Watches generally have three hands to show the hours, minutes and seconds. Hands can have very different shapes: pear, Breguet, sword, skeleton, baton, arrow, etc. Image 1.3A shows second,minute and hour hands in golden.
The above shown Watch is a basic quartz watch. Other than the quintessential parts, there are few other watch part and term popularly used. These are discussed below.
[13] STRAP A strip or band of leather or rubber that holds the Watch to the wrist. It must be non-metal to be considered a strap; a metal version is referred to as a bracelet. Leather straps could be classified as follows : Flat , Extra thick , Bombe , Padded and made of Genuine leather, Fake Leather or even Crocodile leather. Image 1.3A shows a brown genuine leather, flat strap with stitches. Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
BEZEL RING The ring around the crystal on the top portion of a Watch. It is usually made of metals such as gold, gold-plate, platinum or stainless steel. It holds the glass or crystal in place in Three piece case construction. It could be a Functional Bezel Ring or Decorative Bezel Ring. (Image 1.3B) CYCLOPS A small lens on the crystal to magnify the date. Also called a date bubble. It is a trademark feature of Rolex Watches shown in Image1.3C CASE PIPE: Case pipe is a metal tube usually made out of Stainless steel material. It is fixed onto the case usually at the third hour of the watch by applying glue. It allows the “Hand setting stem� of the Movement assembled onto the Crown to pass through the Case
Image 1.3B- Rolex bezel rings 36
BRACELETS : Metal straps are normally made out of materials like Stainless steel & Brass. Based on the construction, metal straps are classified as Sheet metal, Semi solid, Solid Link or Milanese. (Image 1.3D) But other metals like Titanium, Gold can also be used. CLASP : It is a component used to lock the two halves of the bracelet. Some of them are : -Butterfly type (Image 1.3E) -Jewelery Type Clasp -Single Zee Clasp OTHER NON METALLIC / NON LEATHER STRAPS : These are made of materials like Ceramics, Fabric, Resin, Silicone and PU (Poly Urethane). SUB-DIAL A small dial placed inside the main dial on a Watch dial. Watches can have as many as four sub-dials (auxiliary dials). They give information not provided by the main watch dial
Image 1.3C- Rolex trademark cyclops
Image 1.3D- Metal bracelets with different links
such as chronographs, alarm, dual time zone, and calendar. Image 1.3F shows chronograph, minutes, seconds sub-dials. CHRONOGRAPH A time that can be started and stopped to time and event. They could be centre hand chronograph, offset chronograph, 1/20 sec chronograph,(Image 1.3F) flyback chronograph or a rattrapante chronograph. CHRONOMETER An instrument for measuring time very accurately. For a Swiss watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet very high standards set by the C.O.S.C. (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres). The requirements are 15 days and nights at five different positions and temperature changes. (Image 1.3G) SWISS MADE A watch can only be considered to be Swiss made if, - its movement is Swiss; - its movement is cased up in Switzerland and - the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland. (Image 1.3H)
Image 1.3E-Butterfly clasp Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
Image 1.3F-A Seiko chronograph with subdials
Image 1.3G-Rolex chronometer certificate Image 1.3H-The famous Swiss Made label
TACHOMETER/TACHYMETRE A tachometer is a graduation on dial of a chronograph which enables one to determine average speeds or hourly production on the basis of an observation period of under sixty seconds. (Image 1.3I) APERTURE A small opening (also called a “window�) in the dial that displays certain information such as the date, day, month or moon-phase. (Image 1.3F shows date)
Image 1.3I-A tachymeter ring
Image 1.3J-Retrograde sub-dials
WATCH COMPLICATION A watch complication is any function that exists in addition to telling time (displaying hours, minutes and seconds) on a timepiece. These watch complications enable special functions that are performed and displayed on the watch to enhance or simplify your life. PUSHER Button(s) located outside of the case that control specific functions of the watch. Pushers are most commonly found on Watches with a chronograph.
RETROGRADE HAND A hand with a tip moving over a portion of the arc of a circle instead of an entire circle. When it reaches the end of its path, it instantly returns to its point of departure. Image 1.3J shows a date and 24 hour retrograde sub-dial. CALIBER Also known as Calibre, the Caliber is the size or style of a watch movement.
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Information Source Glossary of Timepiece & Watch Terminology http://www.wixonjewelers.com/education/swisswatches/watch-glossary/#top Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Image 1.4A-Quartz crystal for the movement Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oscillator#/media/File:Inside_QuartzCrystal-Tuningfork.jpg
Image 1.4C-Titan-Seiko chronograph Quartz Movement
Image 1.4B-Rolex Parachrom Balance wheel & Hairspring Source: http://www.rolex.com/about-rolex/rolex-history/2000-2013.html
Image 1.4D- Patek Philippe Mechanical movement Source: http://www.tickld.com/x/46-incredible-photos-you-may-not-have-seen-before
1.4
Watch Works Watches are classified based on their shapes, colour and style but at the core, Watches are mechanical products with gears and pinions running throughout. The major classification for Watches is based on the Movement and its Complications. There are countless different movements that are created by
a watch movement is the engine of a watch that acts as the powerhouse to make the watch and its functions work. Watch manufactures utilizing proprietary innovations, but each of these movements will fall into one of two categories— quartz or mechanical. QUARTZ MOVEMENT - Are very accurate - Require minimal maintenance aside from battery replacements - Tend to be low cost since they are battery powered and have few moving parts. - Quartz watches aren’t as desirable to most watch enthusiasts because they lack the technical craftsmanship and 39
engineering that mechanical timepieces have, but they have undergone tremendous innovation in technology to include features like GPS, Bluetooth and self-charging. (Image 1.4C) Quartz movements are classified based on the display mechanism as: Analog - Display by conventional Dial & Hands Digital - Display by LCD / LED Ana Digit - Prime display by Analog and Secondary display by Digital Digi Ana - Prime display by Digital and Secondary display by Analog
an easy way to differentiate a quartz from a mechanical movement is by looking at the second hand. On a quartz watch, the second hand has the tick-tick motion that moves once per second while mechanical watches have a smooth, sweeping seconds motion. HOW A QUARTZ MOVEMENT WORKS: A quartz movement utilizes a battery as its primary power source and is typically the type of movement that you will
find in a standard, no frills watch. To create power in quartz Watch movements, a battery sends an electrical current through a small quartz crystal, electrifying the crystal to create vibrations. These vibrations keep the movement oscillating and drive the motor to move the Watch hands.
the heart of a quartz watch is the quartz crystal shaped like a tuning fork.(image 1.4A) MECHANICAL MOVEMENT - Mechanical movements are often chosen over quartz movements for luxury Watches because of the level of quality and craftsmanship of mechanical movements. - Contain an intricate series of tiny components working together to power the timepiece - The general design of mechanical Watches hasn’t changed much in centuries, technology has allowed for more precise engineering and a greater attention-to-detail. (Image 1.4D) HOW A MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WORKS: Unlike quartz movements, a mechanical movement uses energy from a wound spring, rather than a battery, to power the Watch. This spring stores energy and transfers it through a Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Image 1.4E- Titan Quartz Movement with Date Complication
Image 1.4G- Titan HTSE: Solar Quartz Movement 40
Image 1.4F-Rolex Perpetual Automatic Movement Source: http://www.rolex.com/about-rolex/rolex-history/1926-1945.html
Image 1.4H- Seiko Kinetic Direct Drive Movement Source: http://www.seikowatches.com/world/technology/kinetic/direct_ drive.html
Image 1.4I- Seiko Spring Drive Movement Source: http://people.timezone.com/mdisher/seiko/springdrive/0634157q/ sdmpgmt.htm
series of gears and springs, regulating the release of energy to power the Watch. Mechanical Watches could be : - Manual Mechanical Movement, which are manually wound to keep running. -Automatic Movement, which have a self-winding system
the heart of a mechanical watch is the balance wheel and the mainspring.(image 1.4b) Often referred to as “self-winding”, automatic movements harness energy through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. An automatic movement works largely the same way that manual movements do, with the addition of a metal weight called a rotor. The rotor is connected to the movement and it can rotate freely. With each movement of the wrist, the rotor spins, transferring energy and automatically winding the mainspring.(Image 1.4F) MECHANICAL-QUARTZ COMBINATIONS Kinetic is another movement platform. Over the past 20 years, Seiko has created on this platform a suite of Kinetic movements, each bringing unique features to the consumer. These include the Spring Drive Movement and the Kinetic Direct Drive. Automatic quartz is a collective term describing Watch movements that combine a self-winding rotor mechanism (as 41
used in automatic mechanical watches) to generate electricity with a piezoelectric quartz crystal as its timing element. Such movements aim to provide the advantages of quartz without the environmental impact of batteries. (Images 1.4H and 1.4I) SOLAR POWERED QUARTZ MOVEMENT These quartz movements use solar cells to charge the battery and run the Watch. These batteries can last upto 20 years. Some solar quartz movements are, HTSE by Titan, Seiko Solar, Tough Solar by Casio and Eco-drive by Citizen. (Image 1.4G) WATCH COMPLICATIONS It is any function that exists in addition to telling time (displaying hours, minutes and seconds) on a timepiece. These Watch complications enable special functions that are performed and displayed on the watch to enhance or simplify your life.(Image 1.4E) The more complications that exist in a Watch, the more difficult it is to design and create it, because a number of additional elements must be built into the standard movement. Several complications are available in timepieces today, from simple date displays to complex functions such as a Tourbillon or repeater. These Watches are highly sought after because of an appreciation for the genius innovation in design, as well as the complexity, precision and skill required to create such a timepiece.
Information Source Types of Watch Movements http://www.wixonjewelers.com/education/swisswatches/watch-movements/ Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Due to the numerous types of Movement variants, a terse analysis was made to put down the information together, making it easy to understand. The map above draws out the features of Quartz and Mechanical Movement. It highlights the key strengths of the Quartz and Mechanical Movements and technological advancements made in each movement. These then become the features offered to the user and the selling point for the Watch. The more advanced the Movement , the more crafted it is considered and hence, more expensive. 42
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
The mapping above shows the different types of Watch complications and the Movements which bear these complications. A Watch can have none, one or more of these complications in various combinations. The complications like the movement features are also movement specific and function differently in case of a Quartz or a Mechanical. As the project progressed the study of the Watch Movements became as essential part of the final output. Thus, a thorough understanding of them and a hands-on experience with these tiny machines helped in deciding the kind of interaction I wanted the users to have with the new Watches designed. 43
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
ALUMINUM
STAINLESS STEEL
BRASS- used in dials, gears, cases, bracelets
GOLD- 14k, 18k, 22k, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold
SAPPHIRE GLASS-scratch resistant
CERAMIC-Rado Watch bracelet being made
PLASTICS
Titanium- for strength & lightness
MOTHER OF PEARL
LEATHER- Watch straps
RESIN- case exterior & straps in sports Watches
SWAROWSKI
CERACHROM
HUBLOMIUM
RUBY- for lubrication in Mechanical movement & for QUARTZ- the heart of the Watch aesthetics
CARBON FIBRE
1.5
Watch Composition Watch making involves extensive knowledge and application of metallurgy and innovative manufacturing techniques. Watches need materials to last for a lifetime, gears to run without wear and tear, durability, malleability for the variety of designs and luxurious materials for the status that Watches give its bearer.
knowing materials is crucial for designing for aesthetics, for tangibility and for manufacturing. it helps determine how the concept will ultimately look in reality. Watchmakers are constantly innovating. Whether they are developing better alloys and materials to make a Watch run better or simply experimenting with a new aesthetic, there are always new and exciting materials that are being used. Many designers and brands are constantly creating and developing their own alloys for use in their designs. These alloys are generally closely guarded secrets. These alloys are 45
developed to help a Watch run better and longer without needing maintenance. Some of the alloys are designed to be lightweight, which makes Watches more comfortable and easy to wear. Some of these alloys are designed to be stronger and work better. Hublot has developed an alloy called Hublonium, a mix of aluminium and magnesium. Rolex has developed many alloys, one being Cerachrom for its bezels to be scratch-resisitant. (Bottom left 2 images on the adjacent page) Most of the material awareness was gathered by reading from metallurgy sources, visiting Watch stores to see the existing Watch materials, and by visiting the manufacturing units. Visits were made to the Titan Watch manufacturing unit in Hosur, to the VBL setup (Bangalore) for leather works and Watch strap manufacturing, meeting with the Swarowski team to see samples and understand their material trend study, along with observing Watch prototypes made in the Titan Design Studio.
Information & Image Source: ROLEX WATCHMAKING http://www.rolex.com/about-rolex/materials.html WATCH CASE MATERIALS EXPLAINED http://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-case-materials-explainedceramic/ HUBLOT MATERIALS http://www.hublot.com/en/craftsmanship/materials 10 NEW MATERIALS IN WATCHES WORTH CONSIDERING http://www.ebay.com/gds/10-New-Materials-in-Watches-WorthConsidering-/10000000177633075/g.html Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
CASE PLANT [B] Pressing/Forging 2 Step process
[J] Watch Crystal
[L] Crown
[D] Surface Finishing [K] Dials
[A] Blanking
[C] Machining
VENDORS
[M] Leather straps, Buckles
[E] Electroplating & Painting
[O] Gaskets & other components
[N] Hands [F] Printed circuit Board (PCB) sub-assembly
Case centre & Case Back sent to Watch Assembly
WATCH ASSEMBLY
[P] Metal Bracelets, Clasps
Movement assembly and main Watch assembly happen simultaneously. Followed by packaging
[G] Stepper Motor sub-assembly
[H] Gear train sub-assembly
MOVEMENT ASSEMBLY [I] Main plate & gems sub-assembly 46
IMAGE 1.6- ILLUSTRATED PROCESS OF WATCH MANUFACTURING AT TITAN Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
Excess material is then sent back to the material supplier for recycling. [B] In the Press Shop the Blanks are pressed into the desired shape using dies applied with high pressure. It could be Cold Forging or Hot Forging depending on the design and material of the case. The operation is repeated several times, with each pressing operation adding a new facet. Excess flash is trimmed off at the end. Back covers are manufactured similarly. The number of pressing operations can be reduced by heating the blanks, however this comes with its own disadvantages, as it disturbs the material properties.
1.6
Watch, How it’s Made A major part of the ground work phase was the visit to the Manufacturing units to see for oneself the process of making Watches and understand it. This involved visits to: - Titan Watch Manufacturing Unit in Hosur, Tamil Nadu - Titan R&D at Hosur for understanding movements - VBL Industries for leather strap manufacturing The account below is based on the factory visits made. An illustrated Watch Manufacturing process is shown on the adjacent page. Quartz Watches as observed are made in 4 major stages- the body or the case made at the Case Plant, the movement made at the Movement Assembly, the auxiliary parts made in their individual plant, all running simultaneously. The n all these parts are assembled at the fourth and final stage in the Main Watch Assembly Unit. AT THE CASE PLANT Cases and Case Backs are manufactured in this facility. [A] During Blanking, Blanks of metal are punched out from strips of raw material. 47
[C] In the Machine Shop, finer details are machined into the case using computer controlled milling machines(CNC), drills and lathes. Holes for the crown and spring bar, as well as threads and hooks for the cover are added at this stage [D] Cases are polished or sandblasted to give different finishes. Diamond cutting is used in rare cases. Specialty surface finishes are either outsourced to 3rd parties or done in-house.
AT THE WATCH MAIN ASSEMBLY Parts from Case Plant, Movement Assembly and the Vendors, are all collected, sorted and assembled into Watches at the Main Assembly. Parts of the case are assembled manually. Movement assembly happens simultaneously with the main assembly. The movement is assembled semi-automatically, with a worker loading a machine that attaches each part. It is also done manually. Often, plastic covers are added for protection. In highly complex Watches, and in luxury Watches, form the making to the assembly happens manually, thus handcrafted. The Watch itself is assembled by hand. The dial and hands are attached to the movement, and the assembly inserted into the case, along with mounting and sealing gaskets. The movement is usually screwed into place, with the crown being attached through a hole drilled into the case previously. Different straps and bracelets are attached to the watch body with the aid of a spring bar. Watches are then inspected, packed and shipped to stores.
[E] Cases are electroplated with a primary coat of nickel to protect from corrosion and allow the upper coat to stick to the material better. Bracelets are also treated this way. A second coat of the desired color is applied using physical vapour deposition (PVD). A number of different colors can be applied to both cases and bracelets using this technique. The output from the Case Plant is sent to the Main Watch Assembly. AT THE MOVEMENT ASSEMBLY Four sub-assemblies run in this section [F] Printed Circuit Board or PCB sub-assembly [G] Stepper Motor sub-assembly which involved special coiling procedures for the motor. [H] Gear train sub-assembly involves the making of all individual sprochets and pinions by automated or semiautomated machines. [I] The main plate is also machined and gems are assembled on it, after proofing.
Source Videos Four Fascinating American Watch Making Films https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-fascinatingamerican-watchmaking-films Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
EUROPEAN WATCH INDUSTRY AMERICAN WATCH INDUSTRY ASIAN WATCH INDUSTRY
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
THE 14 WATCH FAMILIES & WHAT THEY OWN [1] SWATCH GROUP (Bienne, Switzerland) Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Harry Winston, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Léon Hatot, Longines, Rado, Union Glashütte, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Swatch, Flik Flak [2] RICHEMONT GROUP (Geneva, Switzerland) Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, IWC Schaffhausen, Officine Panerai, Ralph Lauren, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Dunhill
1.7
Watch World The Watch Industry is divided into 14 major integrated companies or conglomerates. The idea behind studying the Watch World is to understand where Titan as a company stands and what does Titan have to look out for. There are 3 major Watch IndustriesAsian Watch Industry European Watch Industry American Watch Industry
swatch is the world’s largest watch company. richemont is the largest luxury watch-maker. the quartz watch market is predominantly held by swatch, timex, fossil, citizen, seiko and; titan being the 5th largest watch manufacturer. The European and American Watch Industries dominate the luxury Watch market. Whereas the Asian companies dominate the consumer Watch market and the mid-range market, specializing in Quartz Watches. The Asian Watch industry manufactures the largest number of Watches and Watch parts. 49
[3] LVMH GROUP (Paris, France) TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Hublot, Zenith, Dior, Fred, Chaumet, Louis Vuitton [4] KERING GROUP (Paris, France) Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Gucci, Boucheron, Qeelin, Bottega Veneta [5] SEIKO GROUP (Japan) Seiko, Grand Seiko, Credor, Pulsar, Lorus, Alba, Orient
[10] FRANCK MULLER GROUP (Switzerland) Franck Muller, Pierre Kunz, European Company Watch, Rodolphe, Martin Braun, Barthelay, Backes & Strauss, Pierre Michael Golay, Smalto Timepieces, Roberto Cavalli [11] BINDA GROUP (Italy) Breil, Freestyle, Hip Hop, Moschino, Kenneth Cole, Kenneth Cole Reaction, Tommy Bahama, Ted Baker London, Chronotech, Gametime, Sperry Top-Sider, Zoo York [12] CITYCHAMP GROUP (Hong Kong) Corum, Eterna, Ebohr, Rossini, Codex, Rotary, Dreyfuss & Co., J&T Windmills [13] FESTINA GROUP (Spain) Perrelet, L.Leroy, Candino, Festina, Lotus, Jaguar, Calypso [14] Titan Company (India) Titan, Sonata, Fastrack, Favre-Leuba, Xylys Since the project client is Titan, which is a large Quartz Watch brand, the focus of the study would be concentrated on the Quartz Watchmakers, leaving aside the Mechanical, luxury Watch market. The focus of the sections to follow is the brand Titan and its product portfolio analysis.
[6] FOSSIL GROUP (Texas, USA) Fossil, Relic, Michele, Zodiac, Skagen, Adidas, Burberry, Diesel, DKNY, Michael Kors, Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs, Emporio Armani, Emporio Armani Swiss Made, Armani Exchange, Karl Lagerfeld [7] MOVADO GROUP (USA) Ebel, Concord, Movado, ESQ by Movado, Coach, Hugo Boss, Juicy Couture, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Scuderia Ferrari [8] CITIZEN GROUP (Japan) Citizen, Campanola, Q&Q, Arnold & Son, Bulova, Bulova Accutron II, Bulova AccuSwiss, Wittnauer, Caravelle New York, Bulova Clocks, Frank Lloyd Wright, Harley-Davidson [9] TIMEX GROUP (USA) Timex, Nautica, Opex, GC, Guess, Salvatore Ferragamo Timepieces, Versace, Versus
Information Source WATCH TIME MAGAZINE (www.watchtime.com) Who Owns What: A Guide to the Watch Groups October 2, 2015 By Jay Deshpande Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
My quick doodle interpreting the different Titan clusters and their user personas
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1.8
Brand Stand Titan Company includes 4 major Watch brands namely Titan Watches, Fastrack, Sonata and Xylys. The project was focused on Titan Watches and thus, the study ahead focuses on the Titan Watch clusters, their collections and the brand story. Each Titan Watch cluster focuses on a specific customer group and thus, portrays a story. Below are the 15 clusters and their story as told by the brand followed by the brand portfolio. AUTOMATIC The intricate mechanism of a Titan Automatic recognizes the slightest turn of wrist to power its precision movements.
to study the brand, 2 approaches were taken. one being to understand its story, the customers it caters to and the clusters of watches it sells. second, being to do a comparative study with competing brands to evaluate its strength & weakness and find that ‘sweet spot’ to design a new range of watches 51
Mechanized craftsmanship with a range of functions that keep time on your side make you and your Titan Automatic inseparable from world-class timekeeping. BANDHAN Titan Bandhan are collection of exquisitely crafted Watches in leather, gold and steel combinations. CELESTIAL TIME Master-crafted Celestial Time watches from Titan with moon phase movement adorned with genuine moonstone and impeccable leather. CLASSIQUE A collection of Watches that exemplify the elegance of time. Finesse and function combine like never before to create the ultimate accessory for formal wear. EDGE Classic elegance coupled with technical mastery is what the Edge is all about. With an incredibly slim movement of 1.15, the Edge is the slimmest watch in the universe - a mere 3.5mm.
HTSE A range of watches so sensitive that a mere flicker from a candle light is enough to trigger them. Combined with geometric case designs, anthracite colours and perforated dials, an HTSE is a must-have for every watch aficionado. NEBULA A collection of watches crafted from solid gold, Nebula is a delicate blend of the finest craftsmanship in jewelery making and the latest in Watch technology. OBAKU Its very essence of minimalism captures the timeless allure sans the irreverent complexities of modern fashion. Obaku takes its name from a branch of Zen philosophy in Japan, which believes in natural simplicity – in both thought and act. OCTANE A blur of motion. The glint of steel. A sudden rush of excitement. This is the world fueled by Octane, from Titan. Sporty, stylish and bristling with features Octane is more than just time ticking on adrenaline. Its your pulse refusing to slow down. Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
ORION A collection of precision Watches inspired by the last unexplored frontier, and the stars that guide the way. Titan’s salute to man’s undying spirit for discovery. PURPLE Bold, Brazen, Swarovski studded; Purple lives in a world where rules are for other people and laws of attraction are in your hands. It’s a definitive range of style signatures for the modern trend bender. RAGA Inspired by the modern woman who transcends roles with poise and elan, Raga is a range of exquisite watches that have the perfect mix of sensuality and elegance.
Octane
HTSE
Purple
Purple ceramic
HTSE
Classique
REGALIA Every watch in the Regalia collection makes a statement about the man who wears it. The gold-silver exterior shines in the darkest hour. The designs have the grandeur of the calm. Let each Regalia say its piece. STEEL From the evergreen round cases to the multifaceted shaped ones this collection of watches are meant for people who cherish the unique. In combinations of all steel, steel & rose gold , black & rose gold these watches are sure to be the cynosure of all eyes. ZOOP Zoop is a range of funky watches from Titan, designed for the imaginative, talented and energetic child of today; with bright colours and striking designs.
Image & Information Source: TITAN OFFICIAL www.titanworld.com https://instagram.com/titanwatchesindia/ 52
Obaku
Classique
Automatic
Raga
Nebula
Edge
Celestial Time
Purple
Titan-Ducati Special Edition
Steel
Octane Chronograph
Purple
ANALYSIS 1 : BASED ON WATCH MOVEMENTS The analysis was done by a simple method. The key is illustrated below.
criteria
Analysis 1: Based on Watch Movements Analysis 2: Based on Watch Complications Analysis 3: Based on Materials, Form Aesthetics & Costing.
The 4 Brands to be compared were put along the vertical/ Y axis. The criteria for comparison, i.e. the various types of Watch Movement features were put along the horizontal/ X-axis. The X-Y axis were compared to plot an observation. The symbols used are:
Before getting into the analysis, a lot of ground work was done to understand some key points about each brand. - The clusters and sub-brands - Stories behind each of the cluster - Consumers they cater to - The key features of each cluster like Watch movements, complication, materials used, manufacturing processes, the look and style -Maps were drawn out to figure out where each cluster and sub-brand is positioned within each Brand -The Unique Selling Point (USP) of each brand and their individual clusters.
The observations were basically check marks indicated by a coloured line/dash. Presence of the dash meant that the brand has Watches with that specific feature.
The Watch movement feature and Watch Complication mapping done before was used here as the basis for comparison (Refer Pg 40-41).
Example: All 4 Brands have Watch which have Water Resistant movements, but Seiko is flagged showing it has a specific cluster called VELANTURA based on the feature. The asterisk is used to add a note that Velantura is a cluster of Watches for sailors.
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OBSERVATIONS POST ANALYSIS 1 The observations were made from the perspective of the client brand which is Titan. - All 4 brands have Watch movements with these few specific features which are Water Resistance, Shock Resistance, some level of magnetic resistance, light powered movements and automatic movements.
brand
COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS : The comparative analysis was done by three approaches. Titan was pitted against 3 other major quartz Watch manufacturers, namely Casio, Seiko and Citizen.
- Titan has dealt with durable, tough Watches for sports, but doesn’t have any specific cluster focused on this feature. While Casio, Citizen and Seiko have specific clusters for adventure sorts like mountaineering, sailing and diving. - Titan has 3 specifically at par features which are, light powered movement HTSE, the slimmest quartz movement EDGE and the smallest quartz movement used in RAGA. - The 3 brands other than Titan have huge amount of technological advancements in movements like satellite timekeeping , kinetically charge quartz movement and radio atomic timekeeping; an area Titan is yet to venture into.
A flag was placed to indicate that the Brand has a specific cluster of Watches for that particular feature.
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An asterisk is used to add a note about a particular plot checked on the chart.
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ANALYSIS 1 : BASED ON WATCH MOVEMENTS
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ANALYSIS 2 : BASED ON WATCH COMPLICATIONS
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Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
ANALYSIS 2 : BASED ON WATCH COMPLICATIONS The analysis was done by a similar method as the first one. The key is illustrated below.
OBSERVATIONS POST ANALYSIS 2 The observations were made from the perspective of the client brand which is Titan.
brand
- All 4 brands have Watch complications like calenders, chronographs, astronomical complications, compass, world time and alarms; but the type of accuracy and the expression of the complications may vary.
criteria The 4 Brands to be compared were put along the vertical/ Y axis. The criteria for comparison, i.e. the various types of Watch Complications were put along the horizontal/ X-axis. The X-Y axis were compared to plot an observation. The symbols used are: The observations were basically check marks indicated by a coloured line/dash. Presence of the dash meant that the brand has Watches with that specific Watch complication.
- Titan hasn’t yet incorporated complications like power reserve indicators, data entry, calculator, altimeters, barometers and Bluetooth. These are the complications that make an analog device a mini smart device and are focused on specific needs of experts/professionals like pilots, sports people and travellers. - The 3 brands other than Titan have Watch Clusters marketed as Clusters of specific Watch features like G-Shock G’Mix are Bluetooth Watches. These brands sell the technological advancements and build stories around them. Titan on the other hand uses lifestyle stories and aspirations for clusters and not the Watch movement or complications necessarily.
A flag was placed to indicate that the Brand has a specific cluster of Watches for that particular Watch complication.
*
An asterisk is used to add a note about a particular plot checked on the chart. Example: All 4 Brands have Watch which have Chronograph movements, but Titan is flagged showing it has a specific cluster called OCTANE based on the feature. The asterisk is used to add a note that Octane is a cluster of Watches which are sporty yet dressy.
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ANALYSIS 3 : BASED ON MATERIALS, FORM AESTHETICS & COSTING. The analysis was done by comparing the similar kind of clusters of the 4 brands. The mapping plots the different elements of a Watch that put together give a Watch range with a certain feature set and style. These were also the competitive clusters and the largest selling ones. There were 4 types of clusters taken from each brand. Men’s dress Watches (Classique, Men’s Dress, Seiko Lord, Enticer) Women’s dress Watches (Raga, Citizen L, Seiko Ladies, Sheen) Solar/Light powered Watches (HTSE, Eco-Drive, Seiko Solar, Tough Solar) Sporty Chronogaph Watches (Octane, WDR-Drive, Sportura, Edifice) These clusters were compared for complications, case materials, straps or bracelets, clasps, crystal and brand name; which all together define the cost.
the aim was to understand a fundamental question-what makes a watch classy, or sporty or dressy? what are the design elements that make a watch look like it belong to a certain user style and story? the inferences were to used while designing the final watches in the project. 58
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ANALYSIS 3 : MEN’S DRESS WATCH CLUSTERS
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ANALYSIS 3 : WOMEN’S DRESS WATCH CLUSTERS
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ANALYSIS 3 : SOLAR/LIGHT POWERED WATCH CLUSTERS
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ANALYSIS 3 : SPORTY CHRONOGAPH WATCH CLUSTERS
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The Brand Study and the comparative analysis gave a clear idea about the context and market requirements to be considered while designing a new range of Watches for Titan. There was clarity in terms of the design elements and form of different styles of Watches along with a clear indication of the kind of people that the stories and Watch styles cater to. CROSS ROADS From here on, there were 2 parallel directions: One being that, the new range of Watches for Titan be in the category of high-end sports Watches, catering to extremes like divers, pilots and mountaineers. An area found through the analysis which has scope for new products. The other being that, a trend study be done to explore a whole new realm of timekeeping devices, so as to give Titan, a range of Watches which are different from the trending consumer Watches and could be quirky or boutique Watches. In other words, trying to define a scope for Titan Quartz Watches in the next 2-3 commercial years and also exploring what the next type of timepiece would be like. 63
Information & Image Sources: SEIKO WATCHES http://www.seikowatches.com/collections/index.html CITIZEN WATCHES http://www.citizenwatch.com/en-us/watches/find-a-watch/ CASIO WATCHES http://www.casio-intl.com/in/en/wat/ TITAN WATCHES http://www.titanworld.com/in/watches/collections.php Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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QUESTION TWO Could I offer Titan a new approach and a new scope in the field of Quartz Watches, in a market of sameness?
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Image 1.9A: Frog Tech Trends 2015
Image 1.9B: TIME Magazine article on Data Mine, February 2015
1.9
Watch-o-scope In times of confusion, people often resort to foretellers for advise and to get a direction in place. Confused between the two roads to take, a Trend Study was done to find out the Watch horoscope. The trend study was to understand the current world context, new Watches being launched and old-new experiments being done in the realm of Timekeeping devices. Also, at this very stage in the project, which was around March 2015, Apple was going to launch the much awaited Apple Watch. It was the advent of the Smart Watches, and AnalogQuartz Watches had to find a way to survive and thrive. Different sources were referred to, to gather information like the yearly Frog Technology Trends, news and magazine articles, Watch Trends and popular Product Design Trends and
the watch world is being shaken after 100 years since the quartz crisis, now by the ‘smart crisis’.
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Watch Stores like Dezeen and MoMA(Museum of Modern Art, New York) which host the latest and uirkiest of Watch designs. Some of the Popular world trends include: - Rise of healthcare technology imbibed in Wearables and Smart Watches - Easy and affordable 3D printing - Disconnecting from devices, as they are everywhere - Going Retro; analog and antique revived - Reinterpreting craft - Products with Tangible interactions - Circular Economy and Sustainability Three major trends of concern to the Watch Industry were studied: [1] Technology Trends with the Smart Watch introduction [2] Material Trends [3] Timekeeping Experiments It has been complied in the images on the following pages. Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Image 1.9C- ZIIIRO Celeste
Image 1.9G- Withings Activite Pro
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Image 1.9D- Nooka Cubify 3D printed
Image 1.9H- Rhei,the Liquid Clock
Image 1.9E- Apple Watch variants
Image 1.9F- Hermes leather straps
Image 1.9I- Seiko Astron, Satellite Timekeeping & solar powered
Image 1.9J-Dzmitry Samal Watch
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Image 1.9K- DURR
Image 1.9L-Gustafsson & SjĂśgren Aurora Watch
On the Technological front there have been huge advancements in terms of Smart Watches and parallely in Quartz Movements adding features like GPS, Bluetooth and Satellite Timekeeping (Image 1.9I). Apple Watch (Image 1.9E), Moto 360, Samsung Gear, Fitbit, Jawbone have all entered the Watch market with Smart wearables that as a basic feature tell time also. There are some Smart Watches like the Withings Activite Pro (Image 1.9G) which have analog timekeeping and look exactly like conventional wristwatches. Nooka has explored with 3d printing technology to make Watch Straps in their most recent commercial collection, Cubify (Image 1.9D) 69
Material and Form wise there have been exploration like the Rhei, a ferro-liquid clock display by Damjan Stankovic. (Image 1.9H) Watches have been made with wood,(Image 1.9N) cement,(Image 1.9J) precious jewels and engraving on gold and embossed dials using traditional crafts and jewelery techniques. There have been inspiration taken from knife making (Image 1.9L ) and sword making techniques to get metal textures on dials and design Watch cases. Hermes is trying to revive the pocket watch and wristlets made with high quality leather. (Image 1.9F) Leatherman introduced Watch bracelets which is a handy mini tool kit in itself like the Swiss knife combined into a Watch bracelet. (Image 1.9K)
Image 1.9M-Leatherman Watch
Image 1.9N-Carpenter’s collection
Information Source DEZEEN MAGAZINE Projects under Watch themes http://www.dezeen.com/?s=watches Project DURR & Emulsion by Skrekkogle http://skrekkogle.com/index.html#content Nooka 3D printed- CUBIFY http://cubify.com/store/nooka
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Image 1.9O- Daniel Weil Deconstructed Clock
Image 1.9P-Nespresso Coffee clock
Image 1.9S- Eclipse clock
Image 1.9T- Mass of Time
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Image 1.9Q- Coniferous Clock
Image 1.9R- Emulsion Watch
Image 1.9U- Daniel Weil For the Architect Clock
Image 1.9V- Nomos ring
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Timekeeping Experiments have also been done, creating some installations, some as special products and some for just the kicks. Durr is an interesting 100 Watch piece project which are face-less Watches but have gentle vibrations after every 5 mins to indicate the time elapsed (Image 1.9K). Time display has been experimented with skeletal and enlarged mechanisms like the De-constructed Clock and the ‘For the Architect Clock’ by Daniel Weil (Image 1.9O & U). A clock was designed for Nespresso, the coffee brand which runs on a waste coffee powder electrolyte cell (Image 1.9P). Kacper Hamilton made a device based on Mass of Time, a weighing scale which tells time by weighing sand (Image 1.9T). There is the Coniferous clock which tells time periods by the plant growth pattern and color change (Image 1.9Q). Emulsion is a concept for an analog activity tracker by Skrekkøgle (Image 1.9R). It uses mineral oil and colored water to indicate your activity; If you’re not active the water settles into a big blob and when you’re active the colored water is dispersed into a splatter. The eclipse clock tells time by a digital eclipse formation showing a cycle of shape changes (Image 1.9S). The 71
Nomos Ring uses the sundial concept to tell time with light passing through a small hole in a ring to mark the time on the inner curve surface with calibrations. (Image 1.9V) THE ROAD AHEAD: With all this information and analysis at hand, it was decided that the next step would be to generate new stories based on the trend study. The idea of doing performance Watches was dropped as it the development of it would not fit in the project time-line. So, it was time to Build Stories.
Information Source DEZEEN MAGAZINE Projects under Clocks and themes http://www.dezeen.com/?s=clocks
Project Mass of Time https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/kacperhamilton-mass-of-time
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QUESTION THREE Where does the Quartz Watch stand in the scenario of the rising Smart Watch Crisis?
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2 BUILDING STORIES This was a crucial stage in my project as it led to finding the final direction for the project. An extensive brainstorming was done based on the information gathered in the research phase, and four stories were built. All four stories were than elaborated through sketches and evaluated to chose the final story.
2.1 WHAT IF... What could the next Quartz Watch be like? What could be the interactions in these Watches? What could be the new materials used? What could be the new story around the Watch?
2.2 FOUR STORIES What are the inspirations for the concept? How do I build a story around the concept? How would the concept fit in a scenario? How would people interact with the concept? How would these new Watches look?
2.3 STORY ONE: NON-WATCH
STORY TWO: PERSONAL TIME
SURVIVAL What should be the criteria to choose the story and eliminate the others? Which story would be a strong concept for a tangible timepiece collection? Can the stories be translated into Watches in the project duration?
STORY THREE: LIVING WATCH
STORY FOUR: CUBIC TIME
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Image 2.1A- I Miss My Pencil by Martin Bone & Kara Johnson
Image 2.1B- Non-Object by Branko Lukic and Barry M.Katz 76
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2.1
What if... The post-it wall shown on the next spread is a glimpse of the brainstorming process done after the Ground Work stage (Image 2.1C). It was decided that concepts be developed in forms of stories. Story telling helps in visualizing the idea in a context with people and interactions taken into consideration. The brainstorming session was done in a group, as sharing of ideas and putting them in front of other people helps build on them. A strict rule to be followed in the session is to not criticize any idea. All ideas whether detailed or vague,
subjecting oneself to the what if question, helps define ideas in scenarios, thus building stories. interesting or mundane, pragmatic or utopian were all treated equally and put down on the post it. It was made sure that the idea put down on the post-it was supported by a quick doodle or a catchy phrase to add value to the concept. Taking a Story boarding approach to finding a direction was partly inspired from the design team at Titan and partly from 2 books which are design experiments at their core. 77
NON-OBJECT It is a series of visionary explorations derived from as-yetundiscovered materials, imagined manufacturing processes and invented rules. Branko Lukic and Barry M.Katz propose a radical new approach to design which originates in the mysterious and largely unexplored space in between humancentred design and object-centred design. It is a portrayal of Product design meeting philosophy, poetry and the theatre of the imagination filling one with surprise and delight.
inspired by these sources, the final range of watches I designed were also in some ways, artefacts of my experiment in timekeeping. Products like multi-faceted phones, super-strong furniture, right angled cutlery, a stapler for use along right angles and a con-joint helmet throws the debate open about what is an object and how should we relate to it thus provoking one to imagine a new understanding of ‘a Product’.
I MISS MY PENCIL It includes 12 experiments in design, materials and manufacturing, engaging the senses and exploring a designer’s obsession and fetish to create something new and exciting. It reflects on what inspires a designer to create, why one makes certain design decisions, human connections to products, making products as artefacts that tell people’s stories and hold people’s memories. It is a series of ‘what if’ made into a reality through a design vision and a philosophy based on what one likes and what one desires, linking memories to senses and materials to experience. With each of these experiments, the authors provoke new ways of seeing the objects that surround us making the reader speculate the intuitiveness that can be inbuilt into a product. (Image 2.1A) 7 TIPS ON BETTER BRAINSTORMING Written by OpenIDEO | Feb 23, 2011 https://challenges.openideo.com/blog/seven-tipson-better-brainstorming Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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IMAGE 2.1C - BRAINSTORMING SESSION: THE IDEAS WERE COMPILED ON POST-ITS 79
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QUESTION FOUR Could the project be turned into an experiment in Product Design by exploring Time-based artefacts?
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2.2
Four Stories Post the ‘What if’ exercise, the concepts were discussed, and a lot of rejecting, accepting and clubbing together took place. This is where using post-its came handy. Each concept on a post-it can be floated around and these can be grouped and re-grouped. The sorting of the ideas led to clubbing them under four broad headings. These four categories were transformed into the four concept stories sketched out in the following pages. The Four Stories are namely: [1] Non-Watch [2] Personal Time [3] Living Watch [4] Cubic Time 82
The concept stories were built such that they encapsulate people, timekeeping, emotions associated with Watches, trends and a wee bit of realism for it to be realized in the form of a Watch collection. Each story was given a title, inbuilt with some characters, inspired by certain trends and experiences. The main concept is an amalgamation of many smaller concepts which all put together form the larger story. In the next section, the clubbed main ideas are shown under each story head along with sketches, elaborating the concept.
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FOUR
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STORIES
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STORY ONE
NON-WATCH
The concept was about questioning the archetype of the Watch. It involved exploring the form of objects that do not look like Watches and imbibing in them the Watch functions, thus Non-Watch. Changes in the form of the Watch would lead to corresponding new interactions between people and timepieces. Many small concepts were clubbed under the larger umbrella of Non-Watches. The Watch could be like a pebble, it could be rolled on a surface to awaken it. It tells time by rubbing it, and more such interactions could be built into its interactive surface. Another concept is of the Time tags, which are a bunch of small timepieces which can be left around like breadcrumbs and/or given to people when one promises them ones time-’literally giving ones time to someone’. Some other ideas were, Watches in the form of coins which would fit in ones wallet. Watches as cloth patches and body patches. A band which is made up of multiple tiny Watch blocks, and these can be removed or added. Time tags could work as bookmarks, with stopwatches and alarms on them to remind one of the tasks which were last left undone.
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MULTI-PIECE WATCH STRAP TIMEPIECES INTEGRATED IN CLOTHES
PEBBLE TIMEPIECE
COIN WATCHES
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A TIME TAG
TIME TAGS LEFT AS BREADCRUMBS
TIME TAGS 87
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STORY TWO
PERSONAL TIME
For people, time is not just a number. It has a secondary layer to it, other than the obvious 24 hours in a day, which is the World Time system. Everyone perceives time differently, so why should all their Watches show the same time? The ideas was that each individuals Watch should have a personal element to their Time display. Sleep cycles, activities, routines, memories are few of the personal elements associated with time, which could be built into a Timepiece. A Watch that sleeps and awakens with the person. A Watch which has an encrypted time telling system such that only the bearer of the Watch can read it. Personal time is based on the idea of a Watch having two layers of information, one of the World Time and other with of the personal perception of Time. This would be in its true form a highly advanced form of a Smart Watch, but the concept was to do this in an analogue Watch. These Watches would bear new types of Watch complications based on peoples’ routine, activities or biological clock; which relate to people’s Time directly.
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CONTROLLING TIME
ENCRYPTED WATCH DISPLAY
SLEEP-CYCLE WATCH WITH HOUR MARKERS
TASK COUNTDOWNS & DAY PLANNER
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TIME PACKETS!
HOW TIME PACKETS WOULD WORK
DESIGNED FOR ONES JOB
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STORY THREE
LIVING WATCH
The primary question behind the concept was- What if ones Watch could breathe? Each Watch has a movement which is believed to be the heart of the Watch. The idea was to be able to have the Watch bearer, experience this heart of the Watch and know that it is alive, and will work for a lifetime. Presently, the activity of the second hand indicated that a Watch has life. It was inspired from Biomimicry and 3D-printing that support such bio-morphic forms. Watches could have external mechanisms like shutters, or gills, or pulsating membranes to represent organic life. Watch forms inspired from insect exoskeletons, human bone structure and natural growth patterns. It would involve, exploring 3D-printing as a production technology for mass production or for boutique, special edition Watches.
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3D PRINTED MESH DIAL 3D PRINTED DIAL COVERS INSTEAD OF THE GLASS/CRYSTAL
WEEVIL INSPIRED WATCH
BONE-PIECE WATCH
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HEART OF THE WATCH
WATCH THAT BREATHES
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STORY FOUR
CUBIC TIME
The fourth story was inspired from the conventional but still fresh concept of modularity and bricks. The core idea being to introduce modularity into the Watch working, that is in the case, dial and movement. Modularity in Watches have been long explored in Watch straps, being able to customize them, and in two-faced dials which could be flipped between the two faces. One concept being, that there is a master movement, on which the dial and case elements can be changed easily, to give Watches a new look and function with each combination. The master movement could remain the same and run for a lifetime, but as the person grows, the Watch skin can be changed giving it the desired look for the person’s age and style. Another concept is that of Brick Movements, that each Watch complication is a separate brick which can be put together in various combinations on a modular master case piece.
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MASTER MOVEMENT WITH CUSTOMIZABLE WATCH LOOKS
A WATCH THAT GROWS WITH YOU
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BRICK WATCH COMLICATIONS
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2.3
Survival After the four stories were chalked out, illustrated and compiled; they had to be evaluated. Survival of the fittest! It was time to let one of the four stories survive to live another day, and put aside the rest. A criteria was defined to select the final story and each of the four stories were assessed by it.
STORY ONE: NON WATCH
STORY TWO: PERSONAL TIME
Why exciting:
Why exciting:
The criteria was as follows: [1] Tangible final outcome [2] Feasibility to make or prototype in a year [3] Possibility of pragmatic realization in the next 2-3 years, commercially [4] New forms & interactions [5] Emotional aspect of the story
The Challenges:
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It was playful and surprising, an emotional concept. New artefacts would bring about new interactions. Provide the user with a new experience in Timepieces. Incorporates tangible interactions with the Timepieces
Watches are generally valuable pieces; for interactions like these invaluable items would have to be designed. There would be situations where one would lose a Time Tag, due to disassociation from the main product. Keeping track of the tags would be a concern. The system of usage would have to be smooth for feasible functioning. It would require some level of smartness to be inbuilt for tracking and new ways of telling time(largely electronically) a realm which is not the core strength of the client, Titan Watches.
New and challenging to the field of timekeeping. Involves human emotions in timekeeping, which has largely been mechanical and astronomical. Practicality could be worked out in the time period and with the client expertise. Incorporates tangible interactions with the Watch. Could fill a gap between analogue Watches and the trending personalized Smart Watches.
The Challenges: Controlling time would be a spurious concept, and may leave people confused as it would be an attempt of fooling the mind Need to consider the extent to which the concept can be stretched Challenging to give tangibility to a abstract concept like time perception. Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
STORY THREE: LIVING WATCH
STORY FOUR: CUBIC TIME
Why exciting:
Why exciting:
An emotional concept, of a Watch living with one for a lifetime. A new technology like 3D printing to explore for commercial products.
New approach to Watch complications. Practically feasible with the client expertise. Has been explored and can be built on it. Can be merged with the story of the living watch and time tags to add the emotion
The Challenges: The concept at its core is only form based, i.e. styling-oriented. Does not incorporate major tangible interactions. On the feasibility front, a wristwatch movement would not be able to power the bio-mimic mechanism proposed. The size of the mechanism would have to be large, for its true essence and can’t be done at the wristwatch scale.
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The Challenges: A large part of the project would be driven by functional expertise, and less on the design front. Would require a service to be built around it and fitted into the current structure of retail. Is a stand alone product requiring a stronger story.
story two: personal time survives the evaluation. it is the core project idea. The plan was always to drive the project to a feasible outcome, commercially viable in the next 2-3 years. Also, Titan’s key strength is Quartz Watches. With in-house facilities and expertise it would only be just to use the Quartz movements as a base to making the new range of Watches. It was decided to go ahead with the concept of Personal Time, and take up the challenge to translate it into tangible timepieces. Story four: Cubic time was kept as a back-up in-case the Personal Time story could not be materialized.
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3 THE CONCEPT At this stage it was time to resort back to ground work, but this time it was more directional and confined to a story previously defined. This was also the stage where I defined the final design brief. The ground work involved understanding perception of time, the culture and behaviour related to time, studying people’s lifestyles, and persona mapping. In the end, four inferences were translated into four Watches.
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3.1 QUALITY V/S QUANTITY What is the Qualitative aspect of Time? How can it be explored? How does one give this abstract concept a concrete definition?
3.2 IT IS MORE THAN A NUMBER! What is Perception of Time? What are the factors that affect ones Perception of Time? Is Perception of Time culture specific or individual specific?
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3.3
3.4
3.5
WHY SO PERSONAL?
INITIAL SKETCHES
TIME TO MAKE
How do People spend their Time? How does the Time-People relationship affect people’s behaviour? Could people be classified based on their Time Persona?
What are the inference that can be translated to tangible expressions? How does one use the Quartz mechanism to build a personal interaction?
How did I go about translating the inferences to final Watches?
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FINAL DESIGN BRIEF
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Design a range of analogue Watches on the concept of ‘Personal Time’, incorporating physical interactions and keeping intact the innate features of a Watch. It would incorporate, studying the relationship between Time and People and the associated personal and cultural perception of Time. Thus, exploring the qualitative aspect of Time. The Watches would serve as an experiment in Timekeeping and Time-based artifacts.
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In Time Movie by Andrew Niccol http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1637688/
Personal Time Movie by Anna Friederike Lenz http://www.friederikelenz.de/PersonalTime.html 106
The Strange Experience Of Living On Mars Time (In Brooklyn) Work of Sara Morawetz Article in Hodinkee https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/living-on-mars-time
Why can’t we fall asleep? Article by Maria Konikovva The New Yorker http://www.newyorker.com/science/maria-konnikova/why-cant-wefall-asleep Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
3.1
Quality v/s Quantity Kronos is an ancient Greek word meaning chronological or sequential time. It is measured by clocks, we tend to race against it and somewhere along the way we began to equate it with money. While virtually everything in modern civilization hangs upon this word, there is another type of time that is often overlooked, Kairos. Kairos signifies the “right,” “opportune” or “supreme” moment. It is the perfect time in which the archer must release his arrow to hit his desired mark, the ideal moment in which a weaver passes the shuttle through the shed on his loom.
which is accurate in meeting occasions as they arise and rarely misses the expedient course of action.
chronometry is the science of accurate time. similarly, there is a field lesser explored called kairometry, which is the study of qualitative time.
Sara Morawetz lived on Mars time for a month and experienced how Time is central to the biological clockcircadian rhythm, to how a person functions, and an account of living on mars time was messing around with the structure of Time. The movie In Time is an amazing experience into a world where Time is the currency, or the medium of all transaction instead of money. It portrays how each character deals with it and perceives it. It is a rather speculative account of Time. The Personal Time movie by Anna Friederike Lenz, is a short clip showing how different people perceive time as slow and fast based on their own personality and the culture they belong to.
Kairos cannot be measured as can Kronos, yet it intersects the linear path of time we are so familiar with in our daily routines. One way of looking at it is this: Kairos is to Kronos as wisdom is to intelligence. Those sensitive to Kairos develop an uncommon sense of the fitness of things, or as Isocrates wrote, it is seen by those “who manage well the circumstances which they encounter day by day, and who possess a judgment 107
It was a active attempt in the project to blend the two ideas of Chronometry i.e.Quantitative Time (World Time) with Kairometry i.e. Qualitative Time (Personal Time.) On the adjacent page are glimpses of few experiments done in Time and the sources referred to, to dive into the realm of Time Perception and its concept. These are examples of how Time has been interpreted and is perceived by cultures.
There were also numerous articles on Circadian rhythm and how different sleep-wake cycles of people lead to different perception of time, making some diurnal and some nocturnal. I also did a personal experiment of spending a day without my Watch. Each time I wanted to know the time I would stare at my empty wrist. I also had to get rid of all the electronic devices around me as all of them have inbuilt clocks. There were many moments of panic and also many of revelation, of the various means I used to predict time devoid of my Watchbe the routine of other people, the buses arriving while waiting at the bus-stop or the duration of a song I was listening to.
Information Source: Kronos and Kairos- http://gregghake.com/2011/10/kronos-and-kairos/ Posted on October 26, 2011 by Gregg Hake Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
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3.2
It is More than a Number! Time for people, is more than just a number. People relate it to activities, to tasks to do, to special and/or sad moments, to memories and to planned and unplanned events. Each person based on their development, culture, lifestyle and profession has a unique perception of time. This led to a study of different persona and their associated perception of time. On the adjacent page and the following page, are the mind-maps made illustrating the findings. Chronemics is the study of the use of time in nonverbal communication. The way in which one perceives and values time, structures time, and reacts to time frames communication.
Depending upon where an individual is from, their perception of time might be that : “the clock rules the day” or that “we’ll get there when we get there.” 109
The way in which different cultures perceive time can influence communication as well. Across cultures, time perception plays a large role in the nonverbal communication process. Time perceptions include punctuality, willingness to wait, and interactions. The use of time can affect lifestyle, daily agendas, speed of speech, movements, and how long people are willing to listen.
Add the family, growth, and profession factors and it alters the perception augmenting it or depreciating it. Body clocks or Circadian cycles of each individual further affect the perception of time. Technically speaking, there is no pure Monochronic person or Polychronic person. Improving prospects for success in the global community requires understanding cultural differences, traditions and communication styles.
Time can be used as an indicator of status. For example, in most companies the boss can interrupt progress to hold an impromptu meeting in the middle of the work day, yet the average worker would have to make an appointment to see the boss. Digging deeper, it was discovered that based on the way people live/work and their culture-they fall into 2 broad categories: - Monochronic People - Polychronic People Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Predictable patterns between cultures with differing time systems: MONOCHRONIC PEOPLE - Perceive Linear Time - Do one thing at a time - Concentrate on the job - Take time commitments (deadlines, schedules) seriously - Are low-context and need information - Committed to the job - Adhere religiously to plans - Are concerned about not disturbing others; follow rules of privacy and consideration - Show great respect for private property; seldom borrow or lend - Emphasize promptness - Are accustomed to short-term relationships - Eg: American, Germans, Swiss 110
POLYCHRONIC PEOPLE - Perceive Cyclic Time - Do many things at once - Are highly distractable and subject to interruptions - Consider an objective to be achieved, if possible - Are high-context and already have information - Are committed to people and human relationships - Change plans often and easily - Are more concerned with those who are closely related than with privacy - Borrow and lend things often and easily - Base promptness on the relationship - Have strong tendency to build lifetime relationships - Eg: Oriental countries-Japanese, Indians, Chinese
Information Source: How Different Cultures Understand Time Business Insider Article http://www.businessinsider.com/how-different-culturesunderstand-time2014-5?IR=T Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
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3.3
Why so Personal? Personal Time, the essence of the concept lies in people and their time. A Persona Study was conducted, conversing and understanding how people use their time. The persona study was done to understand people’s day to day lifestyle and how it interacts with time, its effects and impacts on each other. Interviews were conducted with 20 people having diverse backgrounds and professions. Simultaneously, their daily lifestyle and habits were recorded to make individual activity-time analysis. The interviewees were a mix of different cultures within the Indian context, including an equal number of males and females. All interviewees were working people falling in the age group of 23 to 55 years. There were chosen such that they fit in the
Before designing watches for people-time relations, it was crucially to understand the time-people-event system. 113
class of economically independent, stable earners and in the consumer category of high end Titan watch buyers (Watches worth Rs.8000/- and above). They included corporate professionals, business persons, executives and entrepreneurs. It must be noted that the analysis made would vary with different economic structures, cultures and geographical location on the globe. This is evident due to the difference in cultural perception of time. All 20 activity-time analysis were studied to construct the final 4 Persona and their associated activity-time maps graphically representing the findings.
Persona 3 : Is a person who has a flexible routine which depends on the daily events and needs. Could be active in the day-time hours or in the night-time hours depending on mood. These people don’t have a daily routine but have a fixed pattern of routines which keeps repeating. Persona 4 : Is the persona of an average, working person. These persona being average are culture specific.
The Four Persona were: Persona 1 : Is a person who is diurnal i.e., most day-time hours are active hours. Is organized and follows a daily routine. Persona 2 : Is a person who is nocturnal i.e., most night hours are active hours. Is semi-organised and follows a routine.
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CYCLIC TIME
PLANNING THE DAY
TRACKING TASKS
UPCOMING EVENTS
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OBSERVATIONS TO SKETCHES From the Persona Study, there were 4 key inferences. These inferences went on to become the core idea for each Watch in the collection. [1] People have certain fixed activities they do each day. There a few activities that they excitedly await for in their day. Some which are customary and they have to do them or their daily routine gets disturbed. [2] Most people’s day comprises of larger number of hours spent in Work-Eat-Sleep cycle and in some cases it is a WorkEat-Sleep-Play cycle. [2] People keep track of things, activities or tasks like cups of tea, hours of work, etc. [3] People also plan their day, either follow a routine, or make daily or situational plans, noting important task to be done at specific time. Also, they plan their days so that they can make time for things that actually matter like time out for themselves, time out for family and friends or time out for 117
some quint-essentials tasks. [4] Being part of the India culture, which falls in the category of oriental countries, most of us perceive time as cyclic. Cyclic time and its associated stories form an important part of people’s perception. ‘What was not done today, can be completed tomorrow.’ [5] In its more broad sense, people associate time with the Past-Present-Future. [6] The numbers associated with time often work as markers dividing the differently perceived durations. There is tea time, sleep time, work time, etc. as quoted by people. [7] Being associated with time as a precise number like it being exactly 7 am-33 min-59 sec is not of much concern. What matters is the relative relation, like thow much time went by and how much is left.
It was to use these inferences, to give people an enhanced experience through Watches. The following pages show the initial concept sketches done to give the finding a tangible form.
personal attributes is ubiquitous with modern tech devices, but watches being highly mechanical products have been always about the chronometric aspect of time. the challenge was to take these mechannical products and imbibe in them a personal element that people can relate to.
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DAY-NIGHT SHUTTER
USING A TRANSPARENT PHOTOFILTER DISC 118
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HOUR MARKERS
3.4
Initial Sketches With the key inferences in hand, initial sketches were made to quickly put down all the ideas. Using inferences like day-night cycles, upcoming activities, tracking and planning associated with time; concepts were made. These concepts dealt with interactions, style of the Watch and the working of the Watch, adding a new element to them. The day night concept had the use of photo-filters to create the changing colors of the sky on the Watch face. The Watch could be used to set visual reminders and mark upcoming activities. But, these concepts were questioned once the Watch Movements arrived. These were the tiny machines that were going to run the Watch and had to be taken into prime consideration. It was time to re-work all the Watch concepts. 119
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ACTIVITY MARKERS 120
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PLANNER WATCHES
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Quartz Watch Movements pack used in the project.
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3.4
Time to Make The sketching spree had to stop mid-way when the Watch movements arrived. Conceptualizing is one thing, but being able to realize the concept is more important. With the movements at hand, each idea had to be re-thought for the movements had to be used to make a working Watch. Just making a conceptual Watch was out of question and making a new movement is at least a year’s work of development. It was decided that the Watches would have to be working. So, the next best option was to hack the movements!
From now on all concepts were made keeping in mind movement complications and constraints. A lot of the concepts involved using an existing Watch complication for a different function and that is where the hacking came in. The process from this point to making the final Watches is shown on following page- The Formula.
making a new movement based on need would require a years’s work. So, the next best option was to hack the movements! This is when the engineering team came forward. Their expertise was essential in being able to take the concepts to prototypes and then into a final Watch collection. I had to understand the Complications inbuilt in each movement, develop the concepts around and prototype and find the right movement to hack and fit the concept. 123
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THE FORMULA HACKING THE WATCH MOVEMENT
From Stories to Watches
MOVEMENT COMPLICATIONS
UPCOMING EVENTS
TRACKING TASKS PERSONAL TIME PLANNING THE DAY
CYCLIC TIME
the concept
3 Hand(sec_min_hour) Date Day-Date Big Date 24 hour Offset Second World Time Sun-Moon Moon Phase Multihand (1-3 offset functions) Chronograph *Various permutations of these complications
the inferences to be translated to features
mechanism to be used 124
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TANGIBLE INTERACTIONS
Crown Tuning Stopwatch Clicker Bezel Ring Rotation
MORES Watch Collection
MORES Hour
MORES Code CONVENTIONAL WATCH FORMS *
MORES Mark VISUAL INTERACTIONS
Dial Windows Hands Rotation Auto-Rotating Discs Textures & Colors Skeleton Mechanisms
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MORES Classic
* The concept story used brought about Watch
complications not typical of Quartz Watches. This would lead to new usage methods and scenarios. Thus, the form of the Watches was kept conventional for the user to be able to relate to the product, but be surprised by a different kind of functional complication.
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4 OBJECTS OF TIME This is the part of the project which was the most challenging and at the same time the most enjoyable. Sketching, prototyping. iterating and repeating this over and over again to at last make the Watch. Through the process, 3 Wristwatches and 1 Pocket Watch was made. The Watches were named ‘Mores’. Each sub-section is about one Watch, followed by the story of its making.
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4.1
4.2
FOUR WATCHES
WATCH 1: MORES HOUR
The story behind the Watch Mood Board Naming the Watches- Why and What
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
Thought behind the Watch Movement Selection Hacking the Movement Activity Icons Prototyping The New Complication The Case The Dial What’s Up Next The Assembly CFM Prototypes Poster
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4.3
4.4
WATCH 2: MORES CODE
WATCH 3: MORES MARK
WATCH 4: MORES CLASSIC
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
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Thought behind the Watch Movement Selection Hacking the Movement Cracking the Case The Case & Dial Specs Prototyping The Number Code The Assembly CFM Prototypes Poster
Thought behind the Watch The Translation The Interactive Case Making the Case The Dial Planning the Day The Assembly CFM Prototypes Poster
4.5 Thought behind the Watch Movement Selection Making the Story Setting the Mood The Inside Story Prototyping The Dial The Assembly CFM Prototypes Poster
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4.1
Four Watches With the movements in hand, and the concept sorted out, there was a clear direction to take to get to designing. It was now that the real product-making challenges came up. Getting the mechanism to work, figuring out the dials, case making, dimensioning, and Watch styles followed by prototyping took up the largest part of the project. It was in this stage where minute detailing was the key to getting it right. Sketches, iterations, renders and 3d models were the methods used.
All Watch Cases were chosen to be round inspired from the cyclic perception of time in the Indian culture. On the adjacent page is the mood board, referred to for the Watch form and styling. The concept, mechanism, making and usage is shown in the following section; approaching each Watch one at a time.
Four Watches were designed and prototyped, based on the inferences from the person study. The Formula spread gives a glimpse of the process. [1] Based on Daily events & Activities [2] Based on Tracking [3] Based on Planning [4] Based on Cyclic Time The Watches were christened MORES, as Mores in Latin means culture and/or manners; the concept of Personal time was about the cultural perception of time and the relationship between time and people, and the associated behaviour. 128
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Image Sources: https://www.pinterest.com/manisha706/pins/
MOOD BOARD 129
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M O R ES WAT C H ES
[ ’môr,āz ] noun: the essential or characteristic customs and conventions of a community.
“O tempora! O mores!” [ Oh what times, oh what culture ] Source: “O tempora o mores” is a sentence by Cicero in the fourth book of his second oration against Verres (chapter 25) and First Oration against Catiline.
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FOUR
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WATCHES
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M O R ES H O U R
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4.2
Watch 1: Mores Hour
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THOUGHT BEHIND THE WATCH People associate time with activities and the core idea behind this Watch was that it should be able to give the user the experience of an upcoming event or activity along with the numerical time. Our Watch only shows us numbers, but for each one of us those numbers have different significance.
The person should be able to set an upcoming activity and the associated time on the Watch. Thus, the Watch shows the person a second layer of information which is of relevance to the person, for eg: a dinner at 8pm with friends, a T.V. show at 10pm or a morning run planned for 6am. Each one’s Watch would tell them time depending on how its relevant to them, thus adding the Personal element.
Three o’clock in the afternoon, on a particular day could be very important for person A if he has an interview, it must be of less significance to person B who has a meeting each day at 3 pm and might be of no significance to person C. It is this diverse experience that makes the perception of time different for each person and the idea was to imbibe this in the conventional Wristwatch.
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[1]
[2]
[3]
Choosing from the Titan Quartz Watch Movements
Titan Quartz Day-Date Movement
Hacking the Day-Date Movement
2
MOVEMENT SELECTION In order to physically realize the idea, it was figured that the Quartz Watch movement: - Should have at least 2 complications, one for the activity and one for the associated hour. - A method of manually adjusting the hour and the activity - Representing it on the Watch face and displaying it to the user. From the collection of Titan Movements, the Day-Date Movement was chosen. Both the day and date can be manually adjusted by crown of the Watch.
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3
HACKING THE MOVEMENT The day and date complications were replaced by activity and the hour of the activity. In this movement though the 2 complications could be manually adjusted, originally being day-date complications, they were linked to the hour-minuteseconds hand. The manual setting done would eventually change when it struck 12 pm. The day-date were going to be activity and hour which should not automatically change. So, the gear train in the movement had to be broken to remove the intermediate gear wheels that linked the daydate complication to the hands. For smooth setting, the crown mechanism could then be used to set and change activity at any time, and one can do it while time is running without stopping the Watch.
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[4]
[5]
[8]
[7]
[6]
[6-7] Testing out the Activity icons and the magnification bubble for the activity window
[4-5] Prototyping the disc rotation for the movement
[9]
[10]
[11]
[8-11] Prototyping the new activity and hour disc on the sample movement mechanism
4
ACTIVITY ICONS From the various activities recorded in the persona study, broader pools of activities were made so that all types of people could relate to the activity icons. Initial 14 activity icons were picked which after the testing were brought down to 7 major activity types: [1] Celebration/ Gatherings [2] Fitness/Sports [3] Entertainment [4] Food [5] Travel [6] Family/ Friends/ Home [7] Favorite hour/ ME time
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[ 12 ]
[ 13 ]
[ 14 ]
[ 15 ]
[12-15] Testing out the different icons and number positions, sizes and; window shapes and sizes and positions.
[ 16 ]
[ 17 ]
[ 19 ]
[ 18 ]
[18-19] Assembling the new activity-hour movement
5
PROTOTYPING The activity icons and the hour number were to be printed on the movement discs below the dial, so that it can be seen through the dial window. For this the fonts and font sizes of the numbers, the activity icons and their sizes had to be figured. The window size, shape and position on the dials had to be worked out for clarity, ease of seeing the icons and the Watch style. Scaled Paper prototypes were made to decide these features and were tested. Above in the pictures is shown the process taken to find the final icons, the suitable fonts and sizes. Putting all of these together gave the Watch dial look.
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handling the extra 7 date spaces
6
THE NEW COMPLICATION The Movement disc measurements like the diameter and the thickness were taken from the technical drawings. Further, the disc rotation angle for both the inner and outer disc was worked out. The date disc was converted to the Hour Disc with the 24 hour numbering on it. The date disc has 31 rotations and thus 31 spaces for numbering, but the hours are only 24 , thus a text was put in the extra 7 date spaces to indicate the end of one rotation cycle and start of the next cycle. The NEXT*UP text was printed and it comes up in the Hour Window as one rotates.
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Date disc
Day disc
DAY-DATE MOVEMENT
Activity disc
Hour disc
ACTIVITY-HOUR MOVEMENT
Shown here are the old and new movements and movement discs 139
The day disc was converted into the Activity Disc with a icon being placed in place of 2 day spaces. The disc takes 14 tunes for a full rotation and with 7 icons in place, it takes 2 tunes to change from one icon to the next. One can see a new icon appearing in a gradual rotation in the Icon Window of the dial. Colors for the disc were also explored, printed and tested. The icons and numbers are easiest to read when the contrast is high, so a dark color is to be used with white in printing. The sample movement was screen printed and assembled for a working prototype.(in background) Bachelor BachelorofofDesign Design| National | NationalInstitute InstituteofofDesign, Design,Ahmedabad Ahmedabad
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the hour window detailed
the case stance/side view
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THE CASE It was decided that as the Watches have new complications, the style and form of the Watch must be retained as conventional. Sketches done above depict the dial and case details. The dial window bevel, the crown and the lugs were explored to derive the final form. Final Watch case used was a 34mm case, an existing Titan classic Watch case. (34mm is the diameter of the dial opening) A new case was not developed as it wasn’t needed as per the design concept. The dial and the movement were instead concentrated on.
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THE DIAL The dial iterations were made keeping intact 3 features, a hour window (2mm), an activity window (4.5mm), the dial opening of 34mm and a circular margin around of 0.8mm on the dial for printing. Different types of dial calibrations were explored. This is to be done keeping in mind that the calibrations would be Pad printed, and so the width and colors are chosen.
9
WHAT’S UP NEXT What’s up Next! - the core emotion being tapped with the Watch. A party, a movie, a dinner, ones ritualistic morning run or the favorite hour of ones day. Set it, set the hour and the Watch will keep you excitedly awaiting the event. Further, variants of the final Watch were made, compiling all the different parts and features.
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FOOD
ENTERTAINMENT
FAMILY/FRIENDS
SPORTS/FITNESS
ME TIME
CELEBRATION
TRAVEL
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-Pull to first click sound - Rotate crown anti-clockwise to set activity/event - Rotate crown clockwise to set hour of activity
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Hands
Case Back Movement Holder
Dial Activity-Hour Movement Crown Mineral Glass/ Sapphire glass
Main Case
10
THE ASSEMBLY The above image shows the exploded view of the Watch. The Watch is a simple 2-piece
construction and is back-loaded in assembly. The hands, dial and movement are assembled and placed in the Watch case supported by the movement holder. The case back locks the movement assembly and the dial in the Watch case.
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CFM Watch Case Material: Polished Stainless Steel Watch Strap: Blue and Grey Leather Dial : Flat Pad printed in Pantone colors Coated for the gloss finish Pantone Coated 7693C CMYK: 100, 57, 9, 47 RGB: 0, 73, 118
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SCALE- 1 : 1.8 145
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Assembling the prototypes
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Movement working prototype
Changing the activity icon with the crown
12
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PROTOTYPES The Watch Case and dial were prototyped to make a look and feel model. The movement and the dial were prototyped separately for a functional prototypes and also a proof of concept.
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M O R ES CO D E
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4.3
Watch 2: Mores Code
1
THOUGHT BEHIND THE WATCH Throughout the day, people track things, activities, keep record of tasks, count and count-down. This inference from the time perception study was the basis of the second Watch in the collection called Mores Code. The key idea was to make a Watch which lets people keep track of things. To translate this idea into a tangible, timepiece meant including in the Watch features that would enable one to count with respect to time. The inspiration came from tally keepers or counting clickers used to keep score. People always tend to find patterns which involves keeping a count. One can excitedly countdown to a birthday, meticulously track the meetings and tasks for the day or consciously stick to the health regime and make sure to have the right number of glasses of water in a day. Thus, the number on the Watch face now would mean more, it would be the person’s own time code.
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Inspiration : Tally-keeper Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
[1]
[2]
[3]
Choosing from the Titan Quartz Watch Movements
Titan Quartz Big-Date Movement
Titan Quartz 3 Hand-Date Movement
2
MOVEMENT SELECTION For the tally keeping mechanism, the Quartz movements used need to have the following: - Should have a complication which performs sequential increase or decrease in numbering - A method of manually adjusting the numbers - Being able to Reset the count to zero manually - Being able to show time in sec-min-hour format along with the counting. From the collection of Titan Movements, the Big-Date Movement and the basic 3-Hand Date Movement was chosen.
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3
HACKING THE MOVEMENT The Big-Date Movement is a 2-disc movement with the Date Complication. It is called Big-Date for the obvious reason that its construction provides space for a larger font size of the date to be printed as compared to the conventional sizes. This movement forms numbers by the combined movement of 2 discs. The top disc has numbers 0-3 repeated twice and alternate windows. The bottom disc has numbers from 0-9 repeated once. The top disc moves 1 unit of its rotation when the bottom disc has moved 10 units of rotation, thus making
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numbers in combination. It makes numbers from 00 to 39. Now, to use this movement manually, it was used devoid of the sec-min-hour function. The disc were reconfigured to make numbers from 00 to 99. The top disc was printed with numbers from 0-9 and alternate windows. The bottom disc was retained as it is. The Big-Date Movement was then coupled with a basic 3-Hand Date Movement, which did the timekeeping job.
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[4] Working out the movement discs for the final artwork
[5] Figuring a Watch Case size using different sizes of paper cut-outs
[6] [6-7] Different ways the movements could be coupled in a Watch Case
4
CRACKING THE CASE The major task following the movement selection was to find a way to use the coupled movements in the same Watch case and maintaining an ergonomic and aesthetic Watch case size. Different ways were explored to couple the two Watch Movements with quick sketches and few paper prototypes. The sketches that follow show three key Case types worked out, followed by the detailing of the final Case.
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[7]
Pull it out of the pocket and go click!
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Assembling the two movements along the diameter diagonally.
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Assembling the two movements such that they overlap slightly ot reduce the case diameter.
I wanted to give people the experience of being able to pull out a Watch out of their pocket and go click-click to track things. For this it was decided to make a Pocket Watch. A combination had to be worked out to fit both the movements in a single case. The following ideas were explored, shown in the sketches: [A] Placing the Movements diagonally along the Case diameter- This arrangement was finally selected as it did not make the case thick and the movements could be placed without them interfering with each others working. [B] Placing the Movements along the diagonal but overlapping each other, thus reducing the diameterThis would make the Case thicker with decreasing the diameter only slightly. 157
Chamfer and fillets tried out for the case edge and case back.
Combining the two movements from both top and bottom, so they set back to back.
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[C] Placing the movements over each other, facing outwards; a two-faced Watch Case. This would work very well and could make it into a flip case, but the thickness would be double as compare to conventional Watch Cases thickness of about 7mm. Out of the three cases, the one with the dials placed along the diameter was selected and other parts like the crown, pushers and the eye nut (the nut that has the ring for the Watch leash) were explored. 159
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Space between movements= 0.8-1 mm Space around the movements= 2.25-2.5 mm The crown and the pushers were arranged along a 45 degree diameter reference.
Keeping the Counting movement skeleton as it has an interesting double rotation which would add character to the Watch.
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The Black on Black look was chosen to make the unconvential dial size look smaller.
Textures were used to cover up the empty space on the dial around the movements and to add character to the Watch.
5
THE DIAL & CASE SPECS The Case was chosen to be round, with a prominent bevel along the case edge so as to make the case appear and feel thinner in the hand. Also, the diameter of the case was 55.7mm which is fairly larger than most Watches and so it had to be made thinner along the edge to give it a pleasing Case form. The smaller 3-Hand Movement has a tuning crown and the Counting Movement has two pushers, along with the leash ring and the eye nut on the top, all had to be positioned and sized integrated in the Main case. 161
[8]
[9]
[ 10 ]
Making the Watch Case drawings
Crown hump detail as the case edge was beveled
Rapid prototype model of pocket Watch
[ 11 ]
[ 12 ]
[ 13 ]
[ 14 ]
[11-13] Watch Case prototype, different views
Dial texture samples
6
PROTOTYPING The movements for the Watch were modified from the existing movements. The Case was a new design and its details, look and size had to be worked out. Finally a rapid prototype was made based on the 3D model engineered. The RPD gave a clear idea of the size and form of the Watch case.
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PUSH TO COUNT
PUSH TO RESET
COUNTING SUB-DIAL SEC-MIN-HOUR SUB-DIAL
CROWN FOR TIME SETTING
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THE NUMBER CODE Be it the number of hours one worked, or the beers one had, or track grandma’s medicine or just counting stars; the Watch can be used to count and track a variety of things with just the push of a button.
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Counting Pusher
Counting Pusher
Hands
3H movement
Counting Movement
Dial
Mineral Glass/ Sapphire glass Crown
Main Case
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THE ASSEMBLY The Watch Case is a two-piece construction in which the movement is back-loaded. The two movements, the dial and the hands are sandwiched between the main Case and the Case Back. The cut out in the dial is for exposing the Counting movement making it a skeletal dial.
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Case Back
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CFM Watch Case material: Stainless Steel with Black PVD coating (Physical Vapor Deposition). Watch Strap: Leather Dial Texture: Asphalt & Record Turning Color for the counter window ring, the second hand, the brand name and the leather leash are to be matched. Pantone Coated 630C RGB 128, 208, 219 CMYK 46, 0, 14, 0
Pantone Coated 179C RGB 218, 79, 72 CMYK 10, 84, 74, 1
Pantone Coated 1365C RGB 246, 177, 73 CMYK 2, 34, 82, 0 Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
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Modified movement disc, changed by removing C-clip shown
Painting the RPD Watch Case with Matt Spray paint
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Assembling prototypes & RPD case
Big Date Movement Inner Disc
3 Hand sec-minhour movement
MOVEMENT PROTOTYPE
Old disc with 12 divisions for date complication New Disc with 9 divisions for Counting Complication 167
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PROTOTYPES The Watch Case and dial were prototyped to make a look and feel model. The movement and the dial were prototyped separately for a functional prototypes and also a proof of concept.
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M O R ES M A R K
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4.4
Watch 3: Mores Mark
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THOUGHT BEHIND THE WATCH The third Watch in the series is derived from the planning aspect associated with time. People construct their day plan, either routinely or on a spontaneous, daily basis. There is time for work, time for food, time for play, time for sleep, time for loved ones and one squeezes out some time for oneself. With Mores Mark, I wanted people to able to use their Wristwatch to plan their day, mark out important hours and always be able to make time for the things that actually matter. The challenge was to be able to give people this tangible experience in a product as small as a Wristwatch. A mechanism had to be figured, either internally in the movement or in the Watch case. Different rotational mechanism were looked into,
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existing products explored, and some ideas prototyped. The key inspiration in this case was the Joseph-Joseph Kitchen Timer shown in the adjacent picture. It has two parts which counter rotate due to spring action and unwind making a pie-diagram. This pie chart formation along with the cyclic pie charts from the persona study became the basis for the Watch design.
Inspiration: Joseph-Joseph Kitchen Timer
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
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[1-2] Lego Watch bezel ring and back ring mechanism
Working out a pie-rotation mechanism like the joseph kitchen timer
Tachymeter ring mechanism 3D model
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[4-5] Concept concentric ring mechanism tried out in a 3D model
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THE TRANSLATION The idea behind the physical mechanism of the Watch was that, either the inner bezel ring be used or the outer tachymeter ring be used. These parts can be revolved and can be calibrated to mark out an hour on the Watch dial. Mechanisms were worked out and they had to be modeled on 3D modeling softwares as the parts were very small and precision was needed to check feasibility. Basically, the
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markers or notches had be attachments on the bezel, 4-6 in number which can be revolved along the circumference individually and used to mark hours and divide the circular time display into fractions. The hour markers had to be independent of each other, as the duration between any two important task is not fixed in our daily routine, and the Watch must give that flexibility. The different mechanism are shown in the images above and in the sketches following. Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Concentric bezel rings with pointer in which each ring can be individually revolved and set to an hour as a marker.
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Snap fit attachments on the bezel or small revolving notches using the tachymeter ring construction.
The different types of markers which are assembled in the case and can be simple revolved and mark hours; making flexible pie-chart patterns
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The different pointer sizes and shapes explored.
Rotating the pointers on the bezel
The ball head pointer attachment that rotates along the rail.
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[7] Exploded View and Assembly of the Watch case Mechanism
Hour Pointers with ball head extensions (movable part)
Bezel Ring (fixed part)
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THE INTERACTIVE CASE After all the sketching, prototyping and testing, a case was worked out that fit the concept. It is an interactive, planner-based case in which the assembly was made such that the bezel ring and the main case have a rail between them. In this rail, the pointers are assembled which have ball head structures so they can be easily revolved along the rail on inner edge of the bezel area of the Watch. The 3D model above show the details.
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The Rail for moving the hour pointers
This mechanism was chosen as the pointers could be assembled along with the case, so the user would not have to attach or detach them, thus would not loose them. Also, the internal rail under the bezel ring and the ball head extension of the pointers would provide ease of rotation of the pointer. Each pointer had an individual revolution, thus providing the flexibility in marking hour with different intermediate durations. Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
EXPLORING THE LUGS AND THE STANCE OF THE MAIN WATCH CASE 178
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MAKING THE CASE A 34 mm dial Case was used. A 34 mm dial case fits well in the unisex style of Watches. The case well(distance between the crystal and the dial) of the Watch was increased by around 3 mm because of the Bezel Ring fitting. It is a 3-piece construction with the main case, the bezel ring and the Case Back. Taking the 24 hour movement dimensions, the case dimensions were worked out, then modeled and rapid prototyped to physically test the hour pointer mechanism.
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[8] Calculations done for constructing the Watch Case
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Bezel ring and main case assembly
The hour pointers
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Orthographic drawings for the Case
Watch case rapid prototype model
[ 13 ] Hour pointers set in the rail below the bezel ring
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The Case Back
The Watch case edge
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Dial with 24 hour calibrations. The hour hand in this case moves a full rotation in a day. The calibrations show the 24 hours as the major divisions and the smaller divisions are for 15-3045mins.
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Rotating the Hour pointers to a new position
Sleep Work
Dinner/T.V. Show Sleep Me Time Wake Up Swimming Time to go Home Work
Work
Lunch Time
Time for Work
MARKING THE IMPORTANT HOURS
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THE DIAL The case well in this Watch was 3 mm more than usual. This increased the gap between the Crystal and the Dial makes the dial look very deep. To cover up for the depth, a minute ring was added to the dial to give a gradual gradation from the Crystal to the dial and make it aesthetically appealing. Also, a 24 hour Watch movement was chosen so that the user can view the whole day time cycle in one glance. The Watch has a 24 Hour hand and a second hand only. 183
PLANNING THE DAY
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PLANNING THE DAY The interaction in the Watch is mainly with the Case. The silver coloured notches on the black bezel are the Hour pointers which can be revolved along the bezel edge to mark the important hours, set start and end of activities and plan ones day. The hour pointers form a pie-diagram of the day along with the 24 hour dial calibrations. Watch in image SCALE- 1 : 1 Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Hands
Hour Pointer
Minute Ring
Hour Pointer
Case Back
Dial Movement Crown
Main Case
Bezel Ring Mineral Glass/ Sapphire glass
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THE ASSEMBLY The Watch Case is a three-piece construction with a Main Case, the Case Back and the Bezel Ring, along with the Hour Pointers. The movement assembly would be back loaded with a snap-fit Case Back. The Hour pointers are assembled along with the Bezel Ring sandwiched between the ring and the main Case. The top edge of the main case is threaded to fit with the Bezel. The bezel bottom has a rail for the ball head of the Hour Pointers, in which it rotates.
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CFM Watch Case material: Polished Stainless Steel for Main Case, Bezel Ring and the Hour pointers are made of plastic composites Watch Strap: Leather Dials are Black and White painted in Coated Pantone.
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Making the Watch Strap
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Prototype assembly
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Hour pointer assembly
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PROTOTYPES The Watch Case and dial were prototyped to make a look and feel model. The movement and the dial were prototyped separately for a functional prototypes and also a proof of concept. 187
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M O R ES
Classic
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4.5
Watch 4: Mores Classic
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THOUGHT BEHIND THE WATCH The last Watch in the collection is a classic Watch. It was designed mainly focusing on the aesthetics and the fact that Watches in a lot of ways are jewelery pieces. Oriental countries like India, Japan and China have been agricultural economies. They were dependent on natural resources like daylight hours, rainfall and seasonal temperatures for their living. Their perception of time has always been cyclic in sync with natural phenomena like the sunrise-sunset, moon phase and seasons. The Cyclic perception of time is still inculcated in the Indian culture.
sun-moon cycle there are a lot of cyclic events in people’s daily life. There are routines, fixed activities, repetitive activities, memories, stories of travel and experiences. All these together form the cyclic, past-present-future perception of time. Through the classic Watch I wanted to bring this cyclic nature of time, weave it into a story and instill it into the Wristwatch.
The idea was to take this cyclic time perception and add a poetic element or visualization to it. Through the persona study it was found that other than natural phenomena like 192
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24 Hour disc Time Zone disc
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MOVEMENT SELECTION The idea was to have a rotating illustrated disc in the Watch movement which would symbolize the cyclic perception of time and the associated visualization of it. Amongst the Titan Movements there are two movements with a rotating disc mechanismWorld time movement- disc takes a rotation in 24 hours. Moon phase movement- discs takes a rotation in 59 days, which is two moon cycles. It has an illustrated disc with moons and stars.
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Replacing the 2 discs with a whole 24 hour disc The shaded area is the new workable area for the illustration.
The 24 hour disc in some movements is illustrated with sun and moon to show a sun and moon daily cycle in the display window. The 24 hour disc can be used singularly with increased diameter and can be illustrated which can be viewed through a dial window.
The World Time movement has 2 discs, one is the 24 hour disc which moves as per the hour hand(inner disc) and the other is the time zone disc(outer disc) which is manual. The time zone disc being manual adjusting doesn’t affect the working of the Watch movement and can be easily removed. 193
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Sunrise-sunset illustration.
Trying out different dial window shapes and sizes. The dial window position, shape and size is an essential part of the disc animation. Like a hemisphere dial window, provides a horizon line above which the sun-moon rises, thus adding the visual story.
Season-month illustration.
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MAKING THE STORY The next step involved figuring out the story to be illustrated, what style it should have, the dial window shape and size through which the illustration will be visible. Few of the initial ideas were to illustrate seasons and months so it becomes a visual calender. It could be a travel story or a growth cycle, or simply the average persons daily activities.
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COFFEE PAINTING
BLUE POTTERY
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SETTING THE MOOD A mood board was made to select techniques to take inspiration from, to pick colours and finishes and develop an illustration style. Inspiration was taken from blue pottery for the detailed stories, coffee paintings, leaf paintings and a Japanese technique called Kintsukuroi. Kintsukuroi is the art of healing broken pottery with lacquer and silver or gold. 196
PARCHMENT & INK KINTSUKUROI
Image Sources: Coffee Painting http://walloflol.com/coffee-leftovers-art/ Kintsukuroi https://thefarrands.wordpress.com/2013/04/18/369/ Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
Sun in full at 12pm Morning 6am - 12pm
Afternoon 12pm - 6pm
Night 12am - 6am
Evening 6pm - 12am Moon in full at 12am
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THE INSIDE STORY A flat and three colour illustration was made for the movement disc artwork. The artwork was inspired from a poetic travel concept, starting with calm grasslands, to high mountains, dense forest and lastly camping under a starry sky before getting back on the road again. The illustration colours and elements were derived from the mood board, A touch of gold finish was added for the sun and the moon. The artwork is flat, clean and vector like as it would be screen printed on the disc.
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Paper cut-outs for disc and dial
Checking for size
Checking for clarity & rotation
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[ 10 ] Pad printing step by step Source: http://www.angularmomentum.com/welcome/ FAQ.html
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Shinola Watches process of screen prinitng dials Source: http://www.rlfrazier.org/watches/HOWTO_dial_making/ printing.html
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Pad printing techniques for printing Source: http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?42525-Acomplete-watch/page2
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PROTOTYPING Paper prototypes were made of the illustrated disc and dial to check for size and clarity. The paper cut-outs were stuck on the sample movement to check the rotation and the sizes. Changes were accordingly made for clarity and complexity reduced by reducing elements in the artwork. The two techniques used for printing on dials and disc are screen printing and pad printing shown in the images on the left. These techniques and their limitations were taken into consideration while making the artwork. Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
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THE DIAL I wanted to make this Watch along the lines of a Classic Watch with a golden, round case with thin edges and straight lugs. The dial was also made along the same lines, using thick and thin lines for seconds calibration. Roman numbers were explored, flat colored or as golden embellishments. Even the hands were along the classic line of pointed, slant edged or Breguet type hands. The final dial was a cleaner version in two accents - blue and brown.
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Hands
Case Back Movement Dial
Crown
Mineral Glass/ Sapphire glass
Main Case
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THE ASSEMBLY The Watch is a simple two-piece case construction with the Main Case and the Case Back. The movement is back-loaded. The illustrated disc is part of the movement assembly and is visible to the user thought the quarter dial window as shown above.
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CFM Watch Case Material- Stainless Steel Watch Case finish- Polished, Gold Plated Watch Strap- Leather strap with varying tan The variants are in two color accents, blue and brown (their pantone coated equivalents) which is to be the same for the hands, the dial calibrations and darkest shade in the illustration. Pantone Coated 534C RGB 28, 52, 97 CMYK 99, 86, 35, 26
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Pantone Coated 4975C RGB 44, 20, 17 CMYK 56, 75, 71, 78
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10 202 Movement functional prototype & the original movement
PROTOTYPES The movement and the dial were prototyped separately for a functional prototypes and also a proof of concept. Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
World Time Movement
MOVEMENT PROTOTYPE
Cities Time zones
Old disc with 24 hour complication New Disc with day illustration
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TIME AHEAD We stand at a point of transition, where a product undeterred for the past 100 years is suddenly being challenged by new technology. The Watch has survived since the World War I to become the necessary accessory owned by each one. The Quartz crisis challenged the Mechanical Watch in terms of accuracy, cost and production; but eventually both the Quartz Watch and the Mechanical Watch learned to live together. In 2015, both the Mechanical and the Quartz Watch are being challenged by the advent of the Smart Watch. In a scenario like this, where does the conventional Watch stand? This was the larger question that I have attempted to answer in this project. The Watches designed in the project are at a functional, artifact stage. As an artifact the Watches raise many questions and future possibilities. They can be seen as artifacts of humanizing Watches or in the larger context humanizing objects. It is about adding a personal element to the product with which the user can interact in some form such that it arouses some sensory experience, thus inducing intimacy. Another, sweet spot that the project occupies would be the gap between the Quartz Watches and the upcoming Smart 207
Watches. It adds the aspect of ‘personal’ which is exactly what the Smart devices are tapping these days. The project in many ways is an experiment in timekeeping and how one perceives time. It is also an experiment in interpreting user-behavior and playing with product semantics to induce certain interaction in the Watches. A exciting step would be to commercialize these Watches, and work out a Watch category- quirky, customized or the redefined quartz Watches. The Watch prototypes are functional and with further iterations in the Watch case designs and slight modification in the Watch Movement, they can be made commercially viable. The user reaction to the Watches would be an interesting take on the project and could be incorporated in enhancing the experience desired.
Bachelor of Design | National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
The first sketch of a Watch I made in the first semester in Product Design
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LOOKING BACK When I was 7, my father gifted me a Lego Watch with customizable straps and bezel rings, all in bright yellow , red, green, blue Lego colors. I was mesmerized by the Watch and my fascination for Watches has only gotten stronger since then. Being intensely involved in a Watch Company and making a collection of Watches, has been a great experience for me. I chose this project to get hands-on experience at product manufacturing and large scale production. I wanted to learn the nuances of building a market ready product being able to take my ideas from concepts to execution.
I experienced the amount of work that goes into detailing a product and how a concept undergoes various iterations before coming to reality. I have also realized the importance of asking and taking initiatives, be it to clear ones doubt or to grab a project, it helps learn new things. Questioning the Watch and exploring its possible avatar in the near future, turned out to be my little experiment in product design.
I went into a corporate setting as a student, excited about a new venture. At each step in the project I realized the important of collaboration. There was so much that goes into making a Watch and there are so many people to work with to make that happen. Academic projects were always done alone or in groups of 2-4 people, but in a large company there were a huge number of people to deal with. This has built in me immense patience to deal with different kinds of people and respect for other professions which cohesively with design brings a product to life. 209
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REFERENCES
WATCH COMPANIES
ARTICLES
TITAN http://www.titanworld.com/in/ http://www.titan.co.in/ SEIKO http://www.seikowatches.com/home.html CASIO http://www.casio-intl.com/in/en/ CITIZEN http://www.citizenwatch.com/en-us/ ROLEX http://www.rolex.com/about-rolex.html BREITLING https://www.breitling.com/en/ JUNGHANS http://www.junghans.de/en.html FOSSIL https://www.fossil.com/us/en.html?borderFreeCountry=IN NOMOS http://www.nomos-glashuette.com/ URWERK http://www.urwerk.com/en/ SWATCH http://www.swatch.com/en/ SKAGEN http://www.skagen.com/gb/en/country-select.html PATEK PHILIPPE http://www.patek.com/en/home MOVADO https://www.movado.com/
On Apple and the Smart Watch: http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hodinkee-apple-watchreview 10 complications marking landmark http://www.ablogtowatch.com/top-ten-technicallyimportant-mechanical-wristwatches/ HMT watches may be ticking back to life, Oct 27, 2014, 03.42AM IST http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/indiabusiness/HMT-watches-may-be-ticking-back-to-life/ articleshow/44943730.cms MOTO 360 https://medium.com/moto-360/infinity-pool-in-awristwatch-b95eb90275e2 Study of Indian Wrist Watch Industry https://www.scribd.com/doc/36767165/Study-of-IndianWrist-Watch-Industry-and-Marketing-Strategy-of-TitanWatches#scribd Watch Materials: http://www.ablogtowatch.com/watch-case-materialsexplained-ceramic/ Nomos Kaleidoscope: http://www.nomos-glashuette.com/the-movements/aboutnomos-calibers/kaleidoscope/ Activity Cycles http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2013-05-13/how-averageamerican-adult-spends-24-hours-each-day What we do with our Time http://www.businessinsider.in/Over-The-Past-150-YearsThere-Has-Been-A-Profound-Shift-In-What-We-Do-WithOur-Time/articleshow/45661632.cms
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Psychologists and anthropologists debate how different cultures answer the question, “What time is it?”-By Joshua Keating (Smithsonian Magazine, January 2013) http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/why-timeis-a-social-construct-164139110/?no-ist=&page=1 Your Alarm Clock May Be Hazardous to Your Health http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/your-alarmclock-may-be-hazardous-to-your-health-164620290/?no-ist MONYAY http://bringjoy.ideo.com/ Can Death be Designed? https://medium.com/ideo-stories/can-death-be-designedc002f4bcb383
Manisha Laroia |Product Design | Graduation Project |2015
VIDEOS Vacheron Constantin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aF1otAkApE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHVCxUFsvfQ History of timekeeping https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsULOvIWSUo TED-ed The history of timekeeping https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74I0M0RKNIE Verge https://www.youtube.com/user/TheVerge Hodinkee https://www.youtube.com/user/HodinkeeVideos Patek Philippe 5175R Grandmaster Chime Watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGPjFFMD3c0 World Most Amazing Watches https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLkkEMmZLis
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ONLINE MAGAZINES HODINKEE http://www.hodinkee.com/ WATCH TIME http://www.watchtime.com/ WATCH WORLD http://watchworld.co.in/ A BLOG TO WATCH http://www.ablogtowatch.com/ BASEL WORLD http://www.baselworld.com/en-US/Show.aspx MOMA WATCH STORE https://www.momastore.org/museum/moma/CategoryDis play_10451_10001_26690_11474_-1_Y_Watches__1000 DEZEEN WATCH STORE https://www.dezeenwatchstore.com/ PINTEREST https://www.pinterest.com/manisha706/pins/ FAST COMPANY http://www.fastcompany.com/ YANKO http://www.yankodesign.com/ CORE 77 http://www.core77.com/ WIRED http://www.wired.com/ VERGE http://www.theverge.com/
TYPEFACE USED Google Fonts https://www.google.com/fonts Open Sans Whitney Raleway Roboto Roboto Slab Pontano Sans
SOFTWARES USED Adobe InDesign CS6 Adobe Illustrator CS6 Adobe Photoshop CS6 Rhinoceros 3D Autodesk Sketchbook Pro
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Thank you
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MANISHA LAROIA manisha706@gmail.com Product Design 2011-2015 Portfolio on Behance https://www.behance.net/manishalaroia
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