Fashion Basics by Mannat Sidhu

CONTENTS

74 Bottoms Know more about 62 Dresses What is the most ripped jaens, sweatappropriate dress for pants and more. a casual date? Find out. 88 Fashion 27 Collars Familiarise yourKnow all the type self with the fashion 68 Tops of collars that you Know the kind of terms here. wear, the ones trendtops you wear everying and more. day. 107 Lecture Series 38 Necklines What is the type of neckline you swear by? Split, boat or sweetheart. 06 Apparel Categ. Know what apparel to wear and to wear.

48 Skirts Did you know there are 25 different types of skirts? Turnover to find out about a few. 56 Sleeves Your sleeves too say alot about what you wear!

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FASHION BASICS Editor’s Letter

“A journey of a thousand editions starts with the First Edition

This issue marks the first edition of the one of its kind Fashion Basics Journal. This Journal gives you insight to the absolute basics of Fashion. While this particular issue focuses on knowing what you wear with different types of necklines, collars, sleeves and pants. Working on this edition has been a memorable experience for me. From spending sleepless nights finding information about the things we wear to compiling all the knowledge into this edition, It gives me extreme pleasure to bring this copy to you. I would sincerely like to thank Dr. V Sarvani, our Fashion Basics

”

teacher who helped me out during the entire process and providing with valuable feedback, suggestions and comments. I sincerely wish you like this issue and look forward tp many more such issues. Looking forward to meeting you in the next edition. Happy Reading!

-Mannat Sidhu

Email: mannatsidhu1@gmail.com Instagram: @the.letteracy

Fashion Basics

Slit neck is a cut neckline often extended till the cleavage and is a common sight in gowns and dresses nowadays.

Fashion Basics

Boat neck is simply wider than normal necklines, though they are not very deep as compared to other necklines and is very common in traditional Indian wear

Fashion Basics

Square necklines are like its name â&#x20AC;&#x153;squareâ&#x20AC;?, the back and front of apparels with such a neckline are very similar.

Fashion Basics

A sweetheart neckline makes a heart shape on the dress, mostly seen on dresses. A sweetheart collar is a perfect choice for your first date.

Fashion Basics

Off shoulder clothing has been in fashion for the last couple of years and is a must hve for every girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet.

Fashion Basics

Mini skirts are theones which have their hemlines way above the knee length. Mini skirts even though are a lot in fashion today were only started to be worn in the 1960s. Before this time women often work long ankle length skirts.

Fashion Basics

A pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or is just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil.

Fashion Basics

Social Factors Social factors such as Class/Segment, Income group, Gender, Ethnicity, Age, Occupation and Body Shape play a major role in Influencing Fashion. With more awareness people are more knowledgeable about fashion elements and colors for the season. This demand is self generated or imitated by fashion magazines or window displays. Wearing a latest trend is not trying to be in sync but to feel confident. Another important factor influencing fashion socially are the working women, who no longer hold on to the typical sari or plainwear salwar suits. The idea is to maintain the formal dĂŠcor and this is possible

with specially tailored office suits be it a pant suit or a skirt jacket. However the fashion is not just restricted to women. In the years coming up Teenage and Kids are more knowledgeable about fashion elements and colors for the season. This demand is self generated or imitated by fashion magazines or window displays. Wearing a latest trend is not trying to be in sync but to feel confident.

Cultural Influences Since the 1960s, sources of fashion influence have multiplied, even thoughc enters of fashion influence include Paris, Milan, Tokyo, London, New York and Los Angeles yet fashion no longer “trickles down” from couture to the mainstream; fashion directions come from everywhere - various ethnic groups, youth looks from the street, etc. Ever since the late

1960s fashion designers have incorporated more and moredesign elements from other cultures into their lines Contributing to this trend is the fact that ethnic diversity. Cultures from around the world play a significant role in the global fashion from time to time. SOme such famous trens which were directly influenced by various cultures around the worls are1963 Hawaiian Influence-

US designers inspired; jewelry, makeup and a few clothing items inspired by Egypt. Indian CultureThe 1960’s have been characterized as a decade of rebellion, nonconformity, counterculture, and above all a period of youth.

“Blue Hawaii” - Elvis film - set in Hawaii 1965 Russian Influences - “Dr. Zhivago” - film - set during Russian revolution - overcoats worn by Russian military and by Julie Christie, the female lead, in the film inspired coat designs 1976 Russian Influences Yves St. Laurent was inspired by Russian influences for his Winter 1976-77 line.. In this collection, St. Laurent was inspired elements of European peasantdress (embroidered folk blouses,milkmaid’s tunics, and Cossack and transformed them into fabulous couture garments 1977 Egyptian Influences King Tut’s treasures visit US;

Designers influencing fashion Designers and their way of designing clothes plays a major role in influencing the fashion industry. Written below are a few remarkable designers who played a large role in the evolution of the industry. Armani - brought soft Italian tailoring to women’s wear in the 80s. “It is impossible to overestimate the influence of Georgio Armani on late twentieth century fashion. His unstructured, beautifully made suits are high on the wish-lists of all sorts of women” Courreges - Associated with

“space age” designs Rudi Gernreich - Known for sport clothes and for such radical looks as a topless swimsuit, see-through

blouses and ‘no-bra’ bras in the 1960s. Donna Karan - dresses women like herself. Casual, soft looks; lots of knits. Calvin Klein - Klein’s signature is immediately recognizable. He has a spare, lean and simple look that makes everything sexy and sophisticated in the subtlest of ways. Or in Klein’s own words: “My personal philosophy of style is simplicity. Minimalism to me is the sexiest quality a man or woman can posses.” He works in every fashion category for men and women, including tailored clothing,

home furnishings and accessories, campaigns, that tick some people off and titillate others, but in every case, make you remember his name Karl Lagerfeld - took over Chanel line in 1982. Ralph Lauren - known for western looks, outdoor wear and use of natural fiber fabrics Mary Quant - Influential in the Mod styles of the 1960s. Important for the mini-skirt of the late 1960s. Helped make London a fashion center in the 1960s Yves St. Laurent - originated many innovative styles, soft fluid looks, impeccable couture styling, often uses ethnic inspirations. Was at Dior before opening his own house in 1962. YSL “is the designer who most exactly defines the main thrust of fashion” in the early 80s.

Economical Influences The economy of a country and plays a large role in the type of clothing people tend to wear. Asian Countries like India are emerging from recession. Younger age group & more spending power, international brands are coming in henceforth economy is strengthening. Spending power of people is increasing. When the economy is bad and conservatives are in office, people tend to dress more severely. During periods of more liberal administrations, and when the economy is doing well,

fashion becomes more extreme, more expensive, and more colorful. Hemlines rise and clothing becomes more flamboyant and free. Changes in fashion help to keep the manufacturers, distributors and retailers of clothing and footwear in business. It also provides work for advertisers, models and various others. The media benefit from the advertising revenue. Spending patterns is now going towards high fashion & luxury products, retailers and manufacturers

working at margins between 100 to 200%. Just as with the rise in the economy of a country the fashion trends change, a slow economy also directly impacts the fashion industry. Such an example was seen during the World War II, the time marked a great depression in the economy in most countries. During the time when unemployement rose upto 33% in the most affected countries the fashion industry too suffered tremendous amounts of losses and clothing worn by people was often plain and recycled rather then new and decorative. A recent Time magazine article alludes to the fact that, taking a clue from the looming recessionary trends in the USA, designers are sending more black garments down the runways. Actually this trend seemed to start earlier this year with the showing of very bright crayon-hued accessories from shoes to belts to handbags to co-ordinate with the darker Fall/Winter 2008 garments being shown. Whenever the economic picture seems a bit uncertain, most scale back ondiscretionary items and are reluctant to take on any additional financial obligations.

Political factors

As weird as it may sound but political factors do pay an important role in the type of fashion. For example during the industrialisation Political Events have always influenced Fashion World War 1: After WW1 women wore shorter skirts and dresses. During WW1 women worked in factories and it was dangerous to have long hair and long dresses. issues and based upon how much time and labor someone had. World War 2: Shorter skirts, swimming suits, work clothes, etc. Women started to wear less clothing and skirts became shorter because it costed less and money was tight in the 1940s. Work clothes turned into nothing more than the army clothing soldiers wore in the war. Also, leather and

T-shirts became very popular in the 1940s. Between the wars: The period between the two World Wars, often considered to be the Golden Age of French fashion, was one of great change and reformation. Carriages were replaced by cars, princes and princesses lost their crowns, and haute couture found new clients. Influence of Indian politics on Fashion Indian politics and politicians have greatly influenced fashion in India. Garments such as Nehru topin and Modi jacket are worn by people commonly throughout. A specific shape of jackets are also known as nehru jackets and worn by men in their Indian formal attire quite often. With the coming of BJP government into power the

colour saffron has also been popularised to a great extent. Any political movement taking place around thw world does directly or indirectly affect the fashion idustry. For example with the sudden uprising of the #MeToo movement many feminism related clothing can be seen in the markets and streets alike therefore affecting how the fast fashion works. Any movements and change of political govenments in a place also impacts the fashion worn by people. Great examples of such stuff is mostly seen in the middle East where clothing has evolved to more conservative one in the coming times due to radical government policies and policy makers.

Technological factors

Technology nowadays plays a significant role in fashion. From online ecommerce fashion to technology used in prediction and clothing. With more upcoming technology more is being investeed in research related to fashion and textile. There are more permeable and anti perspirant clothing in the market. Technology invested in the fashion world has revealed endless possibilities with synthetic fabrics for every purpose including sportswear, swimwear and nightwear. Nowadays even waterproof and bullet proof fabrics are available in the market for various requirements

Technology and internet have played a major role in the fashion industry. E-commerce sites such as Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra and Shein are one of the major players for fashion. Most youth prefer buying their clothing from such sites rather than going out physically to buy clothes in actual shopping malls or stores. These websites give ease of time, travel and choice. You can get more variety to choose from and options for various sizes, brands and colours can be selected with a few clicks sitting in the comfort of your home or office at any point of time. Social Media, a turning point

in the history of technology and internet is a great hub for influencers and fashion icons to showcase their fashion styles to the world, therefore greatly contributing to the fashion trends. Clothing with lights! Heating panels and air conditioning. Clothes fresh from the 3D printer! and the ones that change colour time to time, all this feels to hard to believe but is now a reality all thanks to the technology which has crept into the fashion world.

Sports influence on fashion

Sportswear began as a separate category of clothing in the early 20th century. Before this people had to adapt their everyday fashion wear to the sports they were playing. Sportswear in turn has had a major effect on every day fashion. It is now difficult to tell whether many items are intended for sports or fashion purposes, so blurred is the line between the two. In the 1960s sportswear began to enter the mainstream fashion market. The tracksuit became a popular clothing item and this continued into the1970s with velour clothes that were incorporated into disco fashion. Tracksuits tended to be bright and baggy and branded

trainers, particularly from Nike were very popular. As sports were popular, it became fashionable to be seen in sports clothes sportswear fashion Became a part of main stream fashion. Tennis fashion also became popular. The fitness craze overtook America and many other countries throughout the 1980s. This led to a sharp increase in sportswear sales and consequently influenced the fashion of the day. Sportswear tends to be well made by popular brands and this signifies quality. Brand names such as Adidas were often seen on the high street and became essential fashion items for casual wear.

sportswear has had a profound influence on fashion over the past fifty years. The comfort and excellent clothing technology that is provided by sportswear has trickled down onto the high street and influenced the fashion of the time. Sportswear has been particularly popular on the urban scene and many fashion designers have been influenced by the casual designs. Sportswear has become more fashionable in recent years due to the cult of the celebrity, particularly the interest in sports personalities and the celebrity endorsements used by big brands.

Influence by music

The connection between fashion and music is one of everlasting glory. Taking Londoners by storm in the early 1960s, fashion’s influence on music (and vice versa), became something incredibly meaningful and symbolic to a generation of young revolutionary minds. Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm Mclaren dressed the Sex Pistols early in the decade in ripped up t-shirts with safety pins and bondage gear- which literally kick-started the “punk” fashion aesthetic. Vivienne Westwood went on to become one of the most influential fashion designers of her time,

popularising music and subcultures such as rock and pop into the fashion world. Mary Quant invented the mini skirt and hot pant which every hippy & freedom lover of the 60s adapted into their wardrobes. These miniskirts became a symbol of freedom loving people over the years. The bikini made it’s first appearance after being featured in the musical Beach Party, and therafter it started a whole new revolution of fashion in the beachwear category, prior to which women did not have any beach specific clothing to be worn.

Musicians started wearing psychedelic prints , while London Modernist’s style became what is known as Mod- conjures up preppy images of the early Beatles. Andre Courreges created the futuristic “space look” with white boots & goggles. This kind of look hit the fashion ramps around the world sparking great interests and controversies. Brian Jones epitomised the look of a dandy with tailored velvet suits, anoraks and flowing ensembles in bright colors. As the years go by there are more bonds formed between designers & musicians: David Bowie and Kansai Yamamoto- who designed his Space Oddity glam rock

the Cottage loaf. This hairdo was decorated with loads of feathers, combs and other decoration items. It was often considered that the dwardian Era or the Age of more accessories you have on your hourglass was characterised by hair, the more fashionable you are. tall and elegant women with long Therefore some rich women has necks, full bosoms, tiny waists and tens of pounds of feather on their full hips. This kind of hour glass hair. Among the many people was obtained by wearing hourglass corsets. Every woman in the 1900s women going out of the way to get a wore a corset. Some women also perfect body Miss Camilla Clifford went the extra mile by taiming was one of the leading Style icons tapeworms in their stomach to of the period. She had an extremely thin waist which was often reffered obtain such petite figures. The era of King Edward VII as a wasp waist. of England had â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Gibson Girlâ&#x20AC;? as a beauty ideal. This ideal was invented by American designer Charles Dana Gibson. This Beauty ideal had a beautiful face with a snooty look and heavy eyes often looking downwards. During this time the Cottage hairdo became very popular. This was a large messy hairsyle which resembled

1900s

The Edwardian colour palette mostly consisted of very soft and feminine colours such as lilac, soft dusty rose pink and ivory. These soft pastel colours were found in every wardrobe during this decade. This decade was marked with lots of embellishments worn by women. The high fashion look comprised of their iconic cottage loaf hairdo coupled together with a long dress decoreated with loads of laces and bows. While most women decorated their clothes with a bunch full of laces, the rich often also put artificial flower and embroidery on their gorgeous dresses. This look was competed big Cartwheel hats and paraasols which helped the ladies to balance themselves with all the heavy embellishments they carried on themselves. The ending of the decade however saw some interesting changes in the fashion. The invention of motor vehicles also gave birth to dusters which protected the womens dresses in the open cars, they were worn with goggles and motor scarves all made to the protect one from the dust in these open vehicles. Lady Lucy Duff Gordon was one noted designer of the era who styles even though less innovative definately matched the fashion sense of the era.

1910s Fashion of the 1910â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s was characterized by fluid, soft silhouettes, big hats, and short hair. Dress length came up from the floor to above the ankle. Often times, women wore a tunic over long skirt. Skirts were widest at the hips and became narrow at the ankle. Shoes had high, curved heels. Women often wore boots during the day, and changed into a court shoe in the evenings. The first sneaker was designed in 1917, by Keds. Women wore ankle length coats with fur trim. Big hats with large brims became widely popular in this time. Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s swimwear was very conservative, extending down to the mid-thigh. Sometimes more conservative women wore leggings with these already modest swimsuits. This era also saw a drastic change in the length of hair. From accessorising long hair women started to cut their

hair, bob cuts became very popular amingst bold laddies in the society. Hobble skirts with high waistline were very popular during the era, one such person who popularised such skirts was the famous designer Paul Poiret, he absolutely revolutionarized fashion of the time. His bright coloured lampshade dresses also were pretty common amongst the fashionable women during the 1910s. While flowy and fluid garments were very popular, their success was largely due to Isadora Duncan, a dancer and acter who wore very lonh and flowy garments. These flowy garments eventually also led to her death after she got entangled in her own flowy scarf. Men in the times also had a specific dressing sense in the times Suits were widely popular in this time. Pants

were worn at the ankle length and cuffed. The Norfolk jacket was popular for outdoorsmen. The most causal jacket was a blazer, worn for most everyday activities. Formal shirts had collars that were tall and stiff while ties were narrow.

1920s 1920’s fashion gave way to the flapper girls. The flapper look was shockingly different than the past decades. Dresses were shorter, brighter, and flashier. Girls wore loose clothing that made movement easy. The waistline of women’s clothes was dropped to the hip. Jewelry became increasingly popular. High heels were the popular shoe choice. Bras were first introduced in this time. Flappers were seen as “giddy, attractive, and slightly unconventional.” The short “bob” hairstyle was re-popularized in this era. Smoking in public, closer dancing, shorter hair, and more makeup all characterized the typical 1920’s woman. Fashion during this time was so exciting and new and different. Short, flat chested, low waisted, boxy torso and emphasis was the new body ideal. Dressing up and applying makeup were seen as very trendy. While the makeup was bold including dark eye make up, down sloping eyebrows and beesting lipsticks. Dresses were inspired by the Art

Deco of the time, which consisits mostly of geometric shapes and uniformity. Men’s suit jackets were shorter than the old long tailed jackets. Trousers got wider, and the ‘knicker’ (short trouser) became popular as casual menswear. You could usually tell a man’s social class based on his hat. Upper class men wore top hats, middle class men wore fedoras, and low class men wore standard newsboy hats.

1930s Accessories Awoman wore gloves for both day and evening. day gloves gathered loosely at the cuff, evening gloves were long opera length. A simple handbag, A small tilted hat and matching shoes were considered fashionable at the time. Day Dresses Floral print, polka dots and

muttted colours filled every daytime wardrobe. Dresses had modest tops and wide sleeves or cape effect and a slender bias cut body with a flair at the hem. lengths ranged from floor to slightly over the knee, matching the belt at high waist. Shoes Shoes had thick heels and full coverage, but with ample straps, cutouts and perforations. Two tone heels were very common during the time, and so were mixing textures. oxfords were seen as a daytime comfort. Whereas for formal occassions required wearing tall pumps. Evening Gowns Elegant, bias cut, floor length gowns with sweeping flared hems was the style of the decade.Modest

necklines in the front opened up to bare back. black pastels and jewel tones in silk, latin and lace were commonly worn by people for evening events. Swimwear In addition to beach pajamas, womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s swimwear consisted of fitted wool one pieces with cotton jersey lining, a mini skit over boy shorts, and frequently little belts accentuating the waist. Usually, they had simple tank straps and often low or even plunging backs. Sunbathing became a trend in the 1920s and continued in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;30s as Coco Chanel and Hollywood stars encouraged the tan look. A tan began to mean one had time for leisure, not that one had to work in the sun.

1940s 1940s Fashion Trends Knee length A-line dresses with puffed shoulders in patriotic colors Plaid A-line skirts with white button down blouses Victory suits: man-tailored skirt and jackets Wide leg, high waisted pants Workwear overalls and jeans created the Rosie the Riveter look Shoes – peep-toe heels, loafers, oxfords, wedge sandals The two-piece bikini debuted Hats, turbans, head scarves, snood and flower clips topped women’s heads Pants Lingerie – seamed stockings, working in factories requiredsafe socks, simple bra, girdle, slip and clothing that wouldn’t snag in panties. machinery. At firs,t women just wore men’s pants. Later manufactures made pants for women, although they still looked very masculine. They were very high waisted, button or zippered down the side and had full legs with wide cuffs at the bottom. They were made of cotton, denim or wool blends. Women wore them at work mostly but soon became a part of their casual wardrobe at home and for fun.

Women’s Suits In the 1940, shortage of fabric caused the popularity of the twopiece suit known as a Victory or Utility suit. Women could mix and match skirts, blouses, and jackets for a new outfit every day. Even after the war, the suit remained popular due to its comfort and practicality.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior emerged as one of the most famous fashion designers of the 1940s. Christian Dior’s groundbreaking new silhouette redefined women’s post-war style and revived France’s fashion industry after a difficult few years. The collection – featuring gorgeous full skirts and waist-cinching jackets – was Dior’s first and became forever known as the ‘New Look’,

1950s Fashion in the 1950s saw a clear gender divide. While men and boy’s fashion moved towards a more casual day-to-day style, women and girl’s fashion prioritized elegance, formality, and perfectly matched accessories. Couture womenswear saw rapid change with new designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy disrupting the overtly feminine silhouette popularized by Christian Dior while novel prints and colors marked a playfulness in fashion for both men and

stiletto heels Small hats, headscarves, hair flowers Jewelry: pearls, animal brooches, sweater clips Matching Accessories: Gloves, hats, belt, handbag Lingerie: Buttlet bra, girdle,

Overview

In the 1850s, women’s skirts were domed and bell-shaped, supported by crinoline petticoats. They often featured deep flounces or tiers. Long bloomers and pantaloons trimmed with lace were popular. Tiered cape-jackets were fashionable, as were paisley patterned shawls. Deep bonnets were worn and hair was swept into buns or side coils from a center parting.

Men wear

women.

backseam stockings

Evening Dresses

For very special occasions such as attending a ball or theatrical performance, a short cocktail dress wasn’t enough. Long, floorlength ballgowns or long, sexy tube gowns were worn to these fancy events. Rich fabrics of silk, satin, taffeta, lace, organdy, net, velvet, chiffon and net could be Fashion trends in the 1950s gathered to create dramatic volume include: or draped for a sleek Hollywood • Tea length swing dresses star luxuriousness. The mermaid with petticoats for fullness gown took roots in the 1950s as did • Slim sheath dresses and the Grecian gown with an empire waistband. Some evening gowns tailored suits

• Pencil or circle skirts, poodle skirts for teens • Capri pants, high waisted jeans • Peter pan collar blouses • Twin set cardigan sweaters • Swing coats in winter • Kitten heels, saddle shoes,

could be shorter tea lengths but they were less common.

Men wore matching coats, waistcoats and trousers, with hairstyles characterised by large mutton-chop side-burns and moustaches, after the style set by Prince Albert.Shirts had high upstanding collars and were tied at the neck with large bow-ties.High fastening and tight fitting frock coats were also very fashionable; though a new style called the sack coat (a thigh-length, loosely fitted jacket) became popular.The bowler hat was invented around 1850, but was generally seen as a working class hat, while top-hats were favoured by the upper classes.

1970s

During the 1870s, womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing became increasingly complex, colorful, and restrictive, while menswear was marked by an industrious sobriety. During the late 1860s, the volume of the skirt had begun to swing backwards, a departure from the circular skirts of the mid-century. This trend became fully realized in the 1870s, with the focus of clothing concentrated at the back, as skirts projected backwards and fell flat against the body in the front. The decade saw two distinct silhouettes in womenswear,

both maintaining the focus on the back of the skirt. A famous fashion historian, James Laver quoted about the 1970s saying â&#x20AC;&#x153;it is now impossible to describe dresses with exactitude: the skirts are draped so mysteriously, the arrangements of trimmings is usually so one-sided and the fastenings are so curiously contrived that if I study any particular toilette for even a quarter of an hour the task of writing down how it is all made remains hopeless.â&#x20AC;?

The waistline dropped to the natural waist in princess line looks. Additionally, shoulder seams began to creep slowly upwards, and sleeves tightened, further accentuating the long, slim line. This newly figureframing style required more severe corsetry. Corsets lengthened over the hips to secure the body into the fashionable slim princess silhouette

1980s

The fashion in the 1980s is quite different and easily distuingshable from the previous decades. It was characterised by bold and different dressing sense. The 1980s marked a decade of long hair. Women started to have long and higly permed hairdos. Even the ponytails shifted to the side and were much higher, all hairstyling of the time was big and extra. Lycra changed the world ever since it hit the market. Everyone, be it men, women, boys or girls everyone work spandex. Suddenly they were the new trend for everyone. But these spandex werenot the only bottoms common,

jeans ripped of from the knees hit the streets like a crazy new fashion trend. These jeans were more often than not high wasited. The fashion trends of the 1980s are quite similar to ones going on today. The ladies wore shirts decorated with laces and frills. The tshirts were mostly filled with frills to make it look more stylish and fashionable, and just like the current times loose, baggy and cropped sweatshirts and boyfriend tshirts were very

common amf often worn by most young ladies. Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear also changed to high waisted pants during this time.

1990s

Women and girls fashion in century. of the ready to wear market The 1990s marked the start which would very the 1990s is very distinct. While not quite as loud as the soon turn the fashion eighties, the nineties took that industry upside down. attitude and tried to be a little Winona Ryder, smarter and a little classier. Melissa Joan Hart, Liv The clothes worn during Tyler, Drew Barrymore, the decade were much more Jennifer Aniston, Gwen subdued and sober than the Stefani and Alicia previous decade. Silverstone are some of Infact the 80s style was the famour fashion often considered so bad and icons of the decade. extra. The excessive makeup and the neons were replaced by minimalist clothing. Black leggings with oversized sweater, low heel shoes, flannel shirts, denim everything, t-shirts, sweatpants, skirts, Birkenstocks, solid colors, silk shirts, turtlenecks (under cardigans or sweaters), plain white Keds and army surplus were outrageously in trend during the end of the 20th

2000s

Technology and Y2K had a huge impact on fashion in the early 2000s. The color palette was filled with shiny black tones and reflective metallics. While some Y2K trends were worn daily, many of these looks were reserved for going out. Popular outfits

for women included mesh or handkerchief tops, box-pleated or leather skirts, shiny pants, and sparkly shoes. For men, Y2K looks usually involved leather jackets, a statement dress shirt, and chunky shoes. Brittney Spears was one of the most fashionable icon of the time. As the decade went on, 2000s fashion began to take cues from 1960s bohemian looks. Yoga pants, low-rise jeans, cowl-neck shirts, peasant tops, capri pants, cropped jackets, and dresses over jeans were popular outfit choices for women.

Fashion Subcultures • Punk • Hippie • Gothic • Minimalistic • Grunge • Hard metal

Punk The punk culture started in the middle of 1970s in United States. The punk subculture is derived from the punk rock music which was very popular during the late 1970s throughout the world. Punk today includes music, ideologies, fashion, visual Art, dance, literature and film. The punker fashion consists of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewellery and volume modifications. Skinheads, rude boys, greasers and mods have also influenced punk fashion greatly. Punk fashion has been extremely commercialise at various times and by many fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul.Punk rock was a pretension found in mainstream music. Artists fashion was defiantly antimaterialistic and consisted of dirty, simple clothes ranging from T-shirt, jeans and leather jackets. Items in their dress up included fishnet stockings, studded or spiked jewellery, safety pins and body piercings.

Punks seek to outrage propriety with the highly theatrical use of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry and body modification. Punk clothing adapts existing objects for aesthetic effect: previously ripped clothes are held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape, written on with marker or defaced with paint; a black bin liner might become a dress, shirt or skirt. Leather, rubber and vinyl clothing are also common, possibly due to its implied connection with transgressive sexual practices, such as bondage and sado-masochism. Some punks wear tight â&#x20AC;&#x153;drainpipeâ&#x20AC;? jeans, brothel creeper shoes, T-shirts with risquĂŠ images, and possibly leather motorcycle jackets and Converse sneakers.

Hippie The hippie subculture started as a youth movement in the United States in the early 1960s. The hippies originally derived from ‘hipster’ which was used to describe the beatniks who had moved into San Francisco and become very popular in 1965 and thereafter gradually acrosee the globe. These people often heard psychedelic rock, embraced sexual revolution and used drugs such as cannabis. The hippies free themselves from societal norms and chose their own way of life. Embracing an alternative way of living, the early hippies dressed in theatrical costumes and recycled clothing, often based

on historic costume and folk dress. Wearing vintage clothes, or remaking garments out of old fabric, the hippies created a unique look based on individuality, creativity, and fantasy. Jewellery went from the conservative, lady-like pearl (or faux pearl) necklaces of the ‘50s toward a variety of styles. Mods preferred obvious costume jewellery made of chunky plastics in bright colors. As the more bohemian look of the late 1960s went mainstream, an eclectic variety of jewelry included long beaded necklaces, stacked silver bangles, woven leather bracelets, large stone rings, beaded headbands, and hooped or intricate dangle earrings. Flowers were often worn instead of jewelry or worn in a wreath on top of the head. Daisies were the predominant flower choice.

Gothic Many musical sub-cultures rose from the PostPunk period, one of the most enduring of those is the Gothic culture. Though the original Goths of the early 1980s were united as followers of bands like Bauhaus and The Cure, the Gothic culture has since evolved to encompass a range of music, fashion, and art. It is believed that the name of this movement originated with a Sounds magazine article entitled, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Face of Punk Gothiqueâ&#x20AC;?. The influences of Gothic culture and fashion can be traced to the Gothic literature of the 19 th century, horror films, and images of the macabre. The Gothic culture is centered in aesthetics, rather than any political ideology or social philosophy. Gothic is often stereotyped as a dark and morbid sense of Fashion. Typical gothic fashion includes dark liners, black hair and fingernails and a lot of piercings. Theda Bara is one of the renowned female role model known for gothic

makeup and looks. Alexander McQueen was one of the famous designers who it specially noted for creating different and gothic looking costumes. However the gothic subculture is not just limited to clothing it spreads across various platforms such as art, architecture and music. Gotic subculture has been further divided into various subsections, one of them know as Gothic lolita is the Japanese fashion of the Harajuku district in Tokyo borrowed some of its style from the Western Goth movement, anime, and Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own alternative music scene. The resulting Elegant Lolita Gothic style has adopted many of those elements and incorporated the Lolita fashion. The result is a fashion that blends traditional Gothic and Victorian attire with baby doll dresses.

Minimalist A complement to the minimalist aesthetic, a minimalist approach to fashion refers to having intentionality and being practical when the time comes to choose your wardrobe. Basically, you have a minimalist approach to fashion when you prefer quality and functionality over quantity. Apply this philosophy when choosing your wardrobe and you will be on your way to implementing a minimalist approach to fashion. The minimalism movement is not just in fashion but in various forms such as art, Design, visual art, and furniture. The term minimalist is often applied colloquially to designate anything which is

spare or stripped to its essentials. A specific movement of the arts is identified with developments in the post World War II era. Minimalism is one of the new fashion trends that works for Virtually all women of any age, shape, or social occupation. The characteristics of minimalistic fashion is effortless, unfussy, unadorned and powerful understated clothes. this type of style is free free from ornamental embellishments, patterns and other complicated stuff. there is something extremely confident and uncomplicated about this unpretentious look.

Grunge The Grunge fashon look hit the streets in the late 1980s. People following the gunge culture were seen as the ultimate rebels of their generation Grunge fashion was developed by Generation X and is a reflection of their frustration with the side effects of the eighties economical upswing. This explains why grunge is mainly fashionable in first world countries. Many were beginning to see the effects of capitalism and didn’t support it. They refused to believe in societal classes and were annoyed by the idea of human value being defined by money and property. They didn’t approve of ”serving the machine” aka careeroriented lifestyle. In their opinion, human life was being sacrificed too much for something pointless like a 9 to 5 job. The grunge lifestyle is about individuality. It is filled with people who want to be known for their words and work instead of adhering to what is expected of them. Through their style they

express this philosophy. They avoid spending too much time on grooming and favor looks that break the molds of society. They mix new pieces with retro or vintage styles and avoid chasing commercial trends in an attempt to remove themselves from the pitfalls of capitalism. If punk’s antifashion stance can be interpreted as “against fashion,” then that of grunge can be seen as “nonfashion.” The grunge youth, born of hippies and raised on punk, reinterpreted these components through their own post-hippie, post-punk. Grunge was essentially a thoughtless, uncoordinated look, but with an edge. Iconic items for men and women were ripped and faded jeans, flannel shirts or wool Pendletons layered over dirty T-shirts and black combat-style boots.

Hard Metal History of Hard Metal Heavy metal fashion is the style of dress, body modification, make-up, hairstyle, and so on, taken on by fans of heavy metal, or, as they are often called, metalheads or headbangers. While the style has changed from the 1970s to the 2010s, certain key elements have remained constant, such as black clothes, long hair and leather jackets. In the 1980s, some bands began wearing spandex. Other attire includes denim or leather vests or jackets with band patches and logos, t-shirts with band names, and spiked wristbands. The studded leather look was extended in subsequent variations, to the wearing of combat boots, studded belts and bracelets, bullet belts, spiked gauntlets, etc.

1969: Heavy metal fashion’s origins were born out of biker and leather subcultures, as evidenced by the tattoo-like imagery that makes up the Hells Angels logo. 1981: New wave heavy metal British band Iron Maiden’s lead singer Paul Di’Anno innovates the look with studded belt and bracelets. 1988: The imagery and values of Celtic, Saxon, Viking and Chivalric cultures often led fans and band members to grow long, thick hair and beards 1989: Guns n’ Roses singer Axl Rose brings in the addition of the kilt as the genre enters the ’90s. 2012: Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière draws inspiration from Iron Maiden’s logo for his “Join a Weird Trip” sweatshirt.

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Fashion Fashion can be termed as a style or a particular look which is reflection of the social, economical, political & environmental/climatic forces of any given time/period. Fashion change in the western world is generally considered to have begun in the middle ages and although is visible in many different kinds of material goods, it is particularly pronounced in & rapid in apparel.

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Fashion Trend Direction in which styles, colors, fabrics and designs are tending to change. Political events, films, personalities, drams, social and sports events often influence fashion trends

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Style Style is any particular characteristic or look in apparel or accessories. Elements that define a style include line, silhouette & details. Style can be interpreted in 3 ways:Designers interpret fashion ideas into new styles & offer them to public. The manufacturer assigns a style number to each new design which is used to identify it throughout the production, marketing & retailing. Designs having same characteristic such as a blazer style jacket, an empire line dress. A style may come & go in fashion but a style always remains that style whether it is in fashion or not ex:polo shirt style will always be in fashion yet it will always have variations every season.

Fashion Basics A person can have a style by wearing fashionable clothes particularly suited to them or a designer may become known for a certain â&#x20AC;&#x153;styleâ&#x20AC;? or look Style varies from person to person and even designer to designer. For example Calvin Klein is known for his minimalistic casuals wheras Nike is famous for its sports wear and accessories. Designers like Jeremy Scott from Moschino is known for his different fashion sense which is very popular

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Avant Garde Avant Garde pronounced as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Ah- vant- gardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a French word which means van guard or advance guard in English which is refered to the part of the army that goes ahead of the rest. In the fashion industry this term is used to represent the costumes and dresses which are much ahead of their time, usually containing a lot of unconvenntional and startling elements of design. These costumes are most often than not just seen in fashion shows and never considered under street fashion.

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Haute Couture Haute Couture pronounced as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; oat- kootoorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a French word for High sewing. This term usually refers to exclusive custom fitting clothing, often made only on order these pieces of clothing are exclusive, unique and made of high quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention t o details and finishings. Haute couture is very often more time taking and highly customiseable according to the customer need.

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Pret-a- Porter Pret-a- porter pronounced as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pret- ahpor- tayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a French term for ready-to-wear clothes. It often an exclusive range of ready to wear clothing. Many Haute couture designers produce special dresses which tare less expensive pret-a-porter lines of clothing in addition to their custom-madelines, in order to fulfill the need of common man rather than elite class they usually cater to. Pret-aporter is often termed as a readyto wear and ready to be carried away sort of clothing.

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Ready to wear Apparels that are designed, marketed, and sold in standard sizes and are mass-produced are termed as Readt to wear garments. They donot any tailoring required on them before being worn. Example: T-shirts come in standard sizes everywhere in stores and can be worn right after they are bought no alterations or customization is required Ready to wear in French is called prêt-à-porter and termed as “off-the-peg” in UK

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Classic Apparel made in a style that continues to be fashionable over a long period of time, and that may return as high fashion at regular intervals. When revived, classic fashions retain the basic line of the original style, but are sometimes altered in minor details. A white shirt and black suit is a classic formal outfit worn by professionals for years and can be classified as a classic.

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Fad Fad is a short-lived fashion that all of a sudden becomes extremely popular, remains for a short period of time and just the way it caught on it fades away very quickly too. These are often inspired by a particular hit movie during a certain time. In India, Amitabh Bachan has been one of the iconic trend setters for several fads in the nineties and before. So many peoplr started dressing up like Jai and Veeru after the release of Sholay.

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Fashion Cycle The fashion cycle is the amount of time it takes a fashion trend to emerge, peak and fall out of style. Many factors such as culture, religion, war and society determine how long a specific trend spends in the fashion cycle. The average fashion cycle is one year. Fashion is not sudden but a gradual process the fashion cycle includes 1. Introduction to a style 2. Increase in popularity 3. Peak of popularity 4. Decline in Popularity 5. Rejection

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•INTRODUCTION OF A STYLE – New styles are introduced by Companies or Designers and showcased in Fashion shows & publicized by celebrities. •INCREASE IN POPULARITY – Popular styles are copied or adapted by mainstream manufacturers to make them available to general public by using inexpensive fabric or modifying the styles & selling them at lower price in greater quantities called as secondary, bridge or diffusion lines. •PEAK OF POPULARITY – When a fashion is highly popular , there are knockoffs produced •DECLINE IN POPULARITY – So many copies are mass produced that fashion conscious people start looking for something new. Many shoppers wait to buy when merchandise does on sale. •REJECTION OF STYLE OR OBSOLESCENCE – Consumers have already turned to new look, thus beginning of new cycle. Rejection of a style just because it is out of fashion is called consumer obsolescence.

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Length of Cycles •CLASSICS – Styles which never become obsolete but instead remain more or less accepted for an extended period •FADS – Short-lived fashions is called FADS which come & go in a single season. They lack the design strength to hold the consumer attention for a long period. •CYCLES WITHIN CYCLES -- Design elements (like color, texture or silhouette) may change even though the style itself remains popular. Popular styles like jeans remain classics & remain for a long time but various details, silhouette & features came & went during that period. •RECURRING CYCLES – After a fashion dies, it may resurface. Designers often borrow ideas from past. It may reappear in an interpreted way by changing fabric or silhouette. Its not totally new but its never exactly the same.

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Consumer Identification with Fashion Cycles Fashion Leaders - Innovators, Motivators or Role Models, Victims Fashion Followers â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Lack time, Busy, Need exposure, Insecure about tastes, Fit in with friends, Imitate

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Fashion leaders People who look for new Fashion & wear it before it becomes generally acceptable are often referred to as Fashion leaders. They fall into 2 categories:â&#x20AC;˘Fashion innovators â&#x20AC;˘Role models

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Fashion leaders Fashion Innovators Some fashion leaders actually create fashion, they may be designers or just want to express their own individual style Fashion Motivators Designers lend new styles to celebrities & public figures to get publicity. They become role models for everyone who identifies with them. There are Fashion leaders for every market Fashion Victims People who have too much money to spend who become slaves to designer brands. They blindly follow a brand without any discernment & without any analysis.

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Fashion Followers Fashion followers imitate others & follow a style only after they are sure of the fashion trends. Consumers become fashion followers for following reasons :•They lack time, money & interest to devote to fashion leadership. Dressing fashionable takes time & energy. •They are busy with their jobs & families & think fashion is unimportant. •They need a period of exposure to new styles before accepting them •They are insecure about their tastes &therefore turn to what others have already approved as acceptable & appropriate. •They want to fit in with their friends or peers groups ro to be accepted by them •They tend to imitate people whom they admire.

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Late Adopters & Laggards As popularity fades, the fashion product is often marked for clearance, to invite the bargain hunters and consumers, the late adopters and laggards, who are slow to recognize and adopt a fashionable style. Laggards are also people who stick to style after the decline of the trend as they find it comfortable & flattering, and adapt it as their unique dressing sense

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