Italian Pasta
Often Imitated, Never Duplicated
Authentic Italian Food. The Quality of Life
Pasta: An Inspired Food
When we say “pasta,” we are really saying “Italy.” Centuries of know-how and tradition have gone into pasta making in Italy. As a result, Italian pasta in all its forms is an emblem of Italian style throughout the world. To speak of Italian pasta is not to talk about recipes alone. Pasta, a staple of the Italian diet, is a way of life deeply rooted in centuries of tradition that reflect a remarkable inventiveness born out of a will to cope with everyday life with style. The Italians have given many whimsical names to the myriad pasta shapes they have invented. The seemingly endless variations on the theme of a simple dough of water and durum wheat semolina reflect the expansive nature of the Italian people, their love of variety and their love of show. It is not enough to make pasta “butterflies” (farfalle); there must also be “little butterflies” (farfallette) and “big, big butterflies” (farfalloni). There are not only small “reeds” (cannelle), there are very small reeds, large reeds, large smooth reeds and large grooved reeds; clowns’ hats and priest stranglers, trouts’ eyes, wolves’ eyes and sparrows’ tongues. All this imagery is not so surprising when you think of the Italians - the prodigious animation in their every activity, their flair for the dramatic and the artistic, their gusto for life. The air of Italy is always filled with many voices, all speaking at once. From Tiepolo’s frescoed ceilings to sleek and shining Ferraris, from making love to making pasta, Italians joyfully combine necessity with art. With their voluptuous dispositions, they produce masterpieces of art and cuisine that the whole world loves. From its prehistoric origins in the cradle of Italian civilization to its present day wild popularity, pasta, the Queen of Italian cuisine, has come a long way. It has been featured in countless books, songs and works of art. Poetry has been written in its name. Saints have been designated to protect its makers. Laws have been written to ensure its quality. Philosophical wars have been fought over its virtues. To sum up, pasta has held a role of prime international importance for a long time and, no matter what its detractors might say to malign it, it has nourished the world from the most humble tables to royal households. It has been a gastronomical ambassador to the world par excellence.
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The Wheat Civilization Pasta was already a specialty in Italian lands as far back as Etruscan times when methods for making lasagne were already known. In ancient Rome, fresh pasta was very highly regarded, so much so that it was mentioned by Horace in his Satires. Later, dried pasta was discovered by the Arabs who left the flour and water dough to dry so that it would keep longer. Again thanks to the Arab influence, the Medieval times marked an emergence in the popularity of new pasta shapes, such as vermicelli and macaroni. They were so delicious that they soon spread from Sicily to the Italian mainland and beyond. Before the 19th century, pasta was not yet a universal Italian dish. It was chiefly consumed by the lower classes. But during the Risorgimento, the movement for the unification and the independence of Italy, its popularity spread to the aristocracy. Many pasta innovations appeared during the Industrial Revolution when new machines became available for producing pasta in mass quantity and elaborating on standard types. Manufacturers and chefs joined to create new varieties, and pasta companies competed with each other to invent popular new shapes. The result was a vast assortment of pasta products to please consumers who were very much in favor of this culinary progress.
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The Story Begins with Grains of Wheat Dried pasta, pasta secca, is made with nothing more than durum wheat semolina and water in an industrial process. The production of factory-made pasta is regulated by specific laws in Italy, which ensure that only durum wheat semolina may be used.
This popular, factory-made pasta is the most nutritious of all pasta types because it is made from the heart or bud of durum wheat. All of the nutritional substances of the wheat are concentrated in the wheat’s bud and in the part surrounding the grain, also known as the endosperm, including proteins, enzymes, A-group vitamins and Vitamins B and E. It should also be noted that dried pasta contains no fat or cholesterol. Given these attributes, this nutritious super-food perfectly suits our health-conscious and time-short modern lives .
Matching Pasta Shapes to Pasta Sauces The many shapes of pasta make it a fun and versatile food, but a little bit of sauce savvy will make it all the more enjoyable. Notwithstanding such whimsical names as tirabaci (“kisscatchers”), ave marie (“prayers”), amorini (“little loves”) and linguine (“little tongues”), every one of these little semolina3
and-water sculptures has a purpose. Various types of pasta work best and taste best with certain sauce combinations. Different cuts, due to their characteristic size, shape and thickness, absorb and combine with sauces in different ways. For example, any pasta with rigate in its name (such as penne rigate) is designed to trap the sauce within the tiny ridges. And the density of dried pasta affects its taste to a startling degree. For example, the taste of angel’s hair is very different from that of rigatoni, sauce not considered. In general, the taste and texture of dried pasta are suited to robust and rustic sauces. In the authentic Italian kitchen, dried pasta is combined with sauces made from ingredients and flavorings that are characteristic of peasant cuisine olive oil or salt pork, t o m a t o e s , combinations of vegetables, beans, olives, fish and inexpensive cuts of meat. Tomato sauces and simple “sauces� of butter and cheese combine easily with almost any type of pasta, dried or fresh, except for the smallest varieties designed for soups.
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Pasta is Good For Your Health (and a Note About Low-Carb Diets) The popularity of the Mediterranean diet that was promoted in America in the 1990s exalted pasta to even greater levels than before. But a decade later, the “carb� phobia generated by the media maligned this exceptional food and incited a pasta backlash with the result that the misinformed became unnecessarily concerned about eating pasta. Pasta sales dropped, and many Italian pasta companies lost their U.S. sales. Durum wheat semolina from which dried, boxed pasta is made, is a complex carbohydrate containing many nutrients. People on lowcarb diets need nutrients from somewhere. If they are on highprotein, meatheavy diets, they are consuming most of their calories in saturated meat fat and protein. Such diets do not offer a balance of the types of nutrients and fiber the body needs for good health. Scientific research shows that people on these diets are at great risk for strokes, cancer (breast, colon and prostrate among others), diabetes/metabolic syndrome (precursors of blindness, limb amputation and serious conditions), liver disease due to the tremendous strain the high protein load puts on the liver), Alzheimer’s and cardiovascular diseases. Plant and grain protein offers a more healthful type of protein than meat, as well as fiber, essential to proper digestion and elimination. In fact, dried pasta, when cooked properly (that is, al dente), remains a whole grain throughout the cooking process, thus retaining all its nutritional virtues. One hundred grams (about a quarter of a 1-pound package) contains only about: 360 5
calories, 12% protein, 73% complex carbohydrates (essential for energy and necessary for our bodies to function properly) and 1.5 grams of fat. Pasta is a delicious vehicle for delivering beneficial oil (extra-virgin olive oil), fish, meat or plant protein, vegetable fiber and herb nutrients all in one dish.
Pasta Shapes As for pasta shapes, there have been at least 1,000 invented from one end of Italy to the other, and the number is ever growing as pasta companies launch new varieties to capture the consumers’ hearts. Competition to produce new shapes has been part of the pasta maker’s industry since its inception in the post-industrial revolution economy. At any one time, there are about 300 dried pasta varieties on the US market. It is possible to find some interesting and uniquely shaped pastas in the United States, especially in gourmet markets and Italian food specialty stores. The appeal of new and different pasta shapes is not only in their form, but also in their function: the idea is to offer the consumer even more possibilities for successful marriages of shapes and sauces or shapes and soups. And yes, the thickness, length, form and design of each shape actually cause each shape to taste different, if you will just pause to notice.
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How to Cook Perfect Pasta in the Italian Style • Always use a good Italian pasta. A high quality pasta has a sunny golden color with a vaguely transparent quality; it is not pale and opaque. A good quality pasta has a clear, nutty perfume and an equally clear, wheaty flavor. It retains its resistance to the bite and elasticity even alter cooking (as long as it is not overcooked). Another indicator of good quality pasta is the absence of excessive cloudiness in the cooking water after the pasta has cooked. • Always cook pasta in plenty of boiling water (5 quarts per pound of pasta, increasing the amount of water proportionately for larger quantities). Stir the pasta as soon as it is dropped into the boiling water and keep stirring with a long fork to prevent pasta from sticking together. Never add oil to the pasta pot - it will coat the pasta and repel the sauce instead of absorbing it. • Use 2 tablespoons of salt for 5 quarts of water and 1 pound of pasta. Pasta cooked in unsalted water is tasteless. • Never overcook pasta. Cook dried pasta al dente, “to the tooth.” Length of cooking time will depend on the shape and thickness of the cut. Follow package directions for cooking time, but begin tasting the pasta about 2 minutes before the suggested cooking time to ensure that it is cooked to your taste. Many Italian cooks add a glass of cold water to the pot as soon as the flame is turned off to arrest the cooking process, then drain. It is important to use a colander that drains the water as quickly as possible in order to prevent the pasta from overcooking in its boiling cooking water should the holes become clogged. • As a general rule, don’t overdrain pasta. Pasta should still be dripping somewhat and very moist when combined with sauce. Otherwise, the pasta becomes too dry. An exception to this rule is when combining pasta with very brothy, thin sauces such as clam sauce. • Never rinse pasta after draining unless preparing it for a pasticcio or lasagne, in which noodles are undercooked, allowed to cool, layered with other ingredients and returned to cook in a casserole in the oven. • Pasta tastes best when piping hot. • Whenever possible, use ingredients that are authentic in order to achieve the true flavors of Italian cooking. Use the best quality, freshest ingredients you can find. They will affect the flavor and the aesthetics of what you cook. 7
Orecchiette alle cime di rapa con salsiccia Orecchiette with Broccoli Rapini and Sausage Serves 4 to 6 This recipe from Apulia is packed with fabulous flavor. It is traditional to make it with orecchiette, “little ears,”but if need be, other short cut pasta can be substituted, including shells, rigatoni or penne.
1 1/2 pound broccoli rapini (“rabe”) 3/4 pound sweet Italian sausage meat, crumbled 8 large cloves garlic, smashed salt 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil pinch hot red pepper flakes 1 pound imported Italian orecchiette pasta Bring 5 quarts water to a rolling boil in a large soup kettle. In the meantime, wash the rapini well under cold running water. Peel the lower part of the stems as you would asparagus, discard any wilted leaves, and chop them into 3-inch pieces. Add the rapini and 2 tablespoons salt to the boiling water. Cover and cook over high heat until half-cooked and nearly tender, about 4 minutes. Use a mesh paddle to fish them out of the water and transfer them to a bowl. Reserve the cooking water. In a deep skillet large enough to accommodate the pasta later, heat the olive oil and add the sausage meat; brown 4 minutes. Drain off all but 4 tablespoons of oil in the pan. Add the garlic and pepper. Sauté gently until the garlic is lightly colored, another 5 minutes. Add the drained rapini and 1 to 2 tablespoons of their cooking water to the skillet and stir. If dry, add a little more cooking water, as needed, to moisten. Bring the rapini water back to a rolling boil and add the pasta. Cook according to package directions, stirring often. Drain and toss with the sauce. If necessary, add some of the pasta cooking water to the pasta to moisten. Serve immediately.
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Enjoy pasta by trying out our suggested recipes.
Rigatoni al ragù Rigatoni with Beef Ragù Serves 4 to 6 This richly flavored traditional meat sauce from Tuscany is often served with rigatoni or tagliatelle, but it combines well with most short cut pasta shapes.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 small onion, minced 1 large clove garlic, minced 1 large carrot, chopped 1 small celery stalk including leaves chopped 1 tablespoon rosemary, minced 3/4 pound mixed ground lean beef and pork 1/2 cup Grana Padano PDO or ParmigianoReggiano® PDO, freshly grated 3 tablespoons tomato paste 1/2 cup good quality dry red wine 28-ounce can (2-1/2 cups) imported Italian San Marzano tomatoes, with their juice, peeled, seeded and finely chopped fine sea salt to taste freshly milled black pepper to taste 1 pound imported Italian rigatoni 2 tablespoons coarse salt Select a wide, deep skillet or Dutch oven with a heavy bottom. Warm the oil and add the onion, garlic, carrot, celery heart and rosemary. Sauté gently over medium-low heat until the vegetables are softened, about 15 minutes. Add the meat and continue to sauté until it is browned on the outside but still somewhat pink on the inside, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomato paste and the wine. Cook gently until the alcohol evaporates, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, fine salt and pepper and cook gently over low heat, partially covered, until the sauce is thick and aromatic, about 40 minutes, stirring frequently. Bring 5 quarts of water to a rapid boil over high heat. Add the pasta and the coarse salt to the boiling water and cook 9
according to package instructions, stirring frequently. Drain. Toss the pasta with the sauce and serve at once. Pass the grated cheese at the table.
Linguine alle vongole, edizione bianca Linguine with White Clam Sauce Serves 4 to 6 This is one of Italy’s famous pasta dishes, exquisitely simple and absolutely delicious when made with fresh clams in this classic way.
3 1/2 pounds fresh thumb-sized clams or cockles 1/3 cup Kosher salt or sea salt 1 cup cornmeal 1/2 cup good quality extra-virgin olive oil 6 large cloves, smashed pinch of red pepper flakes or 2 whole dried red hot peppers (optional) 1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/2 cup good quality dry white wine 1 pound imported Italian linguine or thin linguine or spaghetti Soak the clams for 3 to 4 hours in 1/3 cup sea salt and 1 gallon water in which you have mixed 1 cup cornmeal to force the clams to purge themselves of sand or other matter. Use kosher or sea salt, as the iodine in regular salt will kill the clams before they hit the boiling water. One hour before cooking, scrub the clams well with a stiff vegetable brush under cold running water. Rinse them until they are free of sand (adding a little coarse kosher salt to the water will help to remove the sand from the clams). Before cooking, tap any open clams. If they close, keep them; if not, discard at once. Bring 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil over high heat. In a wide, deep, cold skillet ample enough to hold the clams later, combine the olive oil, garlic and hot red pepper, if using. Turn on the heat to medium-low and sautĂŠ over very low heat until the garlic is softened but not colored, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the scrubbed clams, the wine and 1 teaspoon salt and 10
immediately cover tightly with a close-fitting lid. Increase the heat to medium and leave the cover on until the clams open, about 10 minutes (depending on the variety of clams), shaking the pan vigorously and often for even cooking. Use a wooden spoon to toss the clams with the liquid in the pan. Lift out any empty shells and discard any clams that did not open (you can leave a few clams in their shells for effect). Toss in the parsley. The sauce will be very brothy and thin, but full of flavor. While the clams are cooking, add the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt to the boiling water. Stir immediately. Check package directions for cooking time and cook over high heat until the pasta is undercooked by 1 to 2 minutes (very al dente), stirring occasionally to prevent the pasta strands from sticking together. Drain and add the pasta to the pan with the clam sauce. Return the skillet to the heat and add the parsley. Cover and toss the pasta and the clam sauce together. Some of the brothy sauce will be absorbed by the pasta, but plenty will remain to keep the pasta moist. Serve immediately.
Pasta e ceci Pasta and Chickpeas Serves 4 to 6 people This thick soup is one of southern Italy’s favorite, and most humble and nutritious dishes. If you have the time to soak and precook dried chickpeas, so much the better, but canned chickpeas can also be used with excellent results. As with all such simple pasta dishes, the quality of the few ingredients used is key to the success of the recipe, in particular flavorful extravirgin olive oil.
4 cups canned chickpeas fine sea salt to taste 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for drizzling 3 ounces pancetta or bacon, cut into small dice 4 large cloves garlic, smashed 1 onion, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage or rosemary leaves 11
2 tablespoons tomato paste freshly milled black pepper to taste 4 ounces imported Italian ditali pasta 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Drain and rinse the chickpeas well. In a soup pot, combine them with 7 cups cold water. Bring to a gentle boil, partially cover, and simmer until the chickpeas are very tender, about 15 minutes. Add the salt and let the chickpeas stand for 5 minutes to absorb it. Remove 1 cup of the chickpeas and mash them well. Return them to the pot. In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat and add the pancetta or bacon and garlic. Sauté until lightly colored, about 3 minutes. Stir in the onion, rosemary or sage, reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and 1/2 cup of broth from the chickpeas. Stir together and add the sautéed mixture to the pot with the chickpeas. Bring to a gentle boil and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in the pasta and cook until it is very al dente, about 4 minutes. Check for salt. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and season with plenty of black pepper. Drizzle a little olive oil on the surface of each bowl, sprinkle with parsley and serve at once.
Spaghetti alla Carbonara Spaghetti with Eggs and Bacon For 4 to 6 people Although this popular spaghetti dish is rather modern, it has become so widespread in Italy and outside of its borders that it deserves a place among the classics. There are many ways to make this dish. The simplest is to toss beaten eggs, grated cheese and some chopped sautéed bacon, with piping hot spaghetti. The heat from the spaghetti essentially cooks the eggs. Here is a somewhat more refined version.
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3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 5 large garlic cloves, bruised 1/3 pound pancetta or bacon, cut into slices 1/16inch thick and cut into very small dice 1/3 cup dry white wine 4 extra-large eggs 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-ReggianoÂŽ PDO, plus more for the table 2 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano PDO 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste plenty of freshly milled pepper 1 pound spaghetti 2 tablespoons coarse salt for cooking pasta Warm the olive oil in an ample skillet large enough to accommodate the spaghetti later. Add the pancetta or bacon and garlic to the skillet. SautĂŠ over medium-low heat until the pancetta or bacon is nicely browned and the garlic is golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in the wine and allow it to evaporate, about 3 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to dislodge any bits of meat that have stuck to the bottom of the pan. Keep the pan warm. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the cream, if using, the cheese, and salt. Meanwhile, fill a kettle with 5 quarts water. Bring it to a boil and add the pasta and the salt. Stir immediately. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent the pasta from sticking together, until it is al dente, tender but firm to the bite, or according to package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water and, while the pasta is still dripping wet and very hot, add it to the skillet with the pancetta or bacon, stirring and tossing to coat it with the pan juices. Working quickly while the pasta is still piping hot, add the egg mixture to the skillet, tossing to distribute the sauce evenly with the pasta. Add several tablespoons of the pasta cooking water, if necessary, to moisten the pasta and create an abundant, creamy sauce. Add a generous amount of pepper. Serve hot. Pass the Parmigiano-ReggianoÂŽ.
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