Italian Salumi
Often Imitated, Never Duplicated
Authentic Italian Food. The Quality of Life
Italian Salumi: An Ancient Tradition
Anyone who has lived in Italy or visited the country is familiar with the pleasures of its varied and prized salumi: Prosciutto crudo, Mortadella, Speck, Prosciutto cotto, Pancetta, Coppa, Culatello, Bresaola, Zampone and Cotechino. Each has its own particular character, historical tradition, flavor and territorial origin. Altogether, they form a veritable universe to be explored and savored. The practice of meat preservation through salting and aging is a time-honored tradition in Italy. Bone fragments found in archeological excavations indicate that the breeding of swine developed in northern Italy during the Neolithic period. Among the many finds uncovered during excavations of an Etruscan settlement dating to the 5th century B.C. were a substantial number of animal bones. At least 60% belonged to the swine species, proof of the Etruscan predilection for pork. Studies of the remains show that the bones of the animals’ hindquarters are often missing. This is because the hams were salted or smoked and then exported to Athens. Ancient Rome was also inordinately fond of hams, where it appears to have been a staple on the tables of wealthy city dwellers and used as currency in commercial transactions as well. The production and consumption of salumi steadily assumed greater importance with the passage of the centuries. By the time of the Renaissance, when the culinary arts flourished anew, salumi were an essential ingredient in the Italian larder. The tables of the wealthy became increasingly sumptuous with both fresh and preserved meats and the popularity of Italian salumi spread to royal households outside the borders of Italy. The most celebrated of the salumi at the time was Parma ham, which was sought after by connoisseurs throughout Europe. With the advances of the industrial revolution in the 19th century, new technologies led to increased production and availability. As a result, Italian salumi could be exported abroad more cheaply.
1
The Italian Art of Processing Meats The excellence of Italian salumi reflects the care and attention paid to all steps of the production from breeding through the final steps of the curing process. The pigs are fed almost exclusively vegetarian diets and, in the case of Parma ham, also given the whey that is a by-product of making Parmigiano-ReggianoŽ PDO cheese. Each hog is branded so that the animal’s development can be tracked in every succeeding phase of processing. The pigs are raised in accordance with the strictest health and hygiene standards in modern establishments. Even though the tools and techniques of making hams have changed throughout the centuries, the process remains artisanal in nature and relies on the orginal recipes and ancient traditions that have made salumi a treasure of Italian cuisine.
Italian Salumi: Products in Line with Modern Dietary Requirements
The commitment to quality in the entire meat processing system, from breeding the hogs to the final transformation of meat into fine salumi, takes the products’ nutritional value into consideration. Thanks to new stock breeding techniques and innovations in production methods, the amount of fat 2
present in the final product can be controlled. By the time salumi are fully cured, the fat content is primarily unsaturated and the cholesterol content, remarkabley low. Salumi are high in nutritional value because of the predominance of favorable proteins (so-called because they contain essential amino acids that are indispensable to the human organism). They also contain a high concentration of minerals, especially iron (important in the prevention of anemia) and zinc (vital to the development of scar tissue and proper functioning of the liver), as well as chromium, selenium and magnesium. Salumi also contain numerous B-vitamins, including B1 (important to the functioning of the nervous system and digestive tract), B2 (assists in the regeneration of tissue and creates a sense of well-being) and B12 (essential to the normal development of red corpuscles and the central nervous system).
Salumi on the table Salumi are prepared differently throughout example, a prosciutto produced in Friuli has flavor, texture and look than that of Parma or capocollo produced in Calabria differs also 3
Italy. For a different Tuscany; a from one
produced, for example, in Apulia. Once sliced, salumi are called affettati, which essentially means “cut in slices.� They are by far the most common form of antipasto on the Italian table. One of the most familiar salumi in America is prosciutto crudo. With its popularity, however, has come a great deal of misunderstanding about the best ways to serve and to eat it. It’s a shame to do anything more to the finest prosciutto than to eat it raw, sliced paper-thin (although not so thin that it falls apart), accompanied perhaps only by grissini, Italian breadsticks. Despite the practice that persists of serving prosciutto crudo with figs or melon, it is best eaten on its own without sweet distractions. The bone is seldom removed in Italian prosciutti because it keeps the ham moist and imparts flavor to the meat. In contrast, prosciutti that are exported to America are boned to make machine-slicing easier. Prosciutto artisans much prefer to cut prosciutto with a knife because the heat generated in machine-slicing alters the ideal texture of the delicate meat. Hand-slicing prosciutto requires special skill, making it impractical for all but a specialzed few. Cooking this fine ham destroys its silky texture and remarkable delicacy, but the ends are perfect for flavoring a soffritto that is the foundation of a sauce or a soup, or a simmering pot of beans. Note that prosciutto should be sliced thicker when used in cooking than when eaten raw. Other common affettati include bresaola, capocollo, culatello, mortadella and salame. In Italy, mortadella is sometimes served in finger-sized pieces on the affettato platter rather than in round, thin slices because thicker pieces more effectively convey the subtle flavors of the fine spiced meat to the palate. As with cheeses and numerous other Italian food products, the production of various salumi reflects local customs and traditions, which result in the countless variations from region to region. Salumi are sometimes produced at home, but even when they are manufactured in quantity for commercial consumption, they are made with a great deal of skill and attention to quality.
4
Mortadella Bologna PGI Mortadella Bologna PGI resembles a very large American baloney with little white circles of fat and pistachios throughout. Mortadella is made from very finely minced high-quality pork (one of the essential differences from American baloney, which is made from pork scraps) and cubes of fat. Whole peppercorns and other spices are added before the mixture is stuffed into a natural or artificial casing. The resulting sausage, which can range from one to 220 pounds, is then cooked in brick ovens, a particularly delicate operation. Proper cooking gives Mortadella its characteristic aroma and typical softness. Afterward, it is sprayed with cold water and stored for a time in a cold room. It is then ready for eating. As with all salumi, a distinction should be made between imported Italian Mortadella Bologna PGI and American imitations, which do not come close to the wholesomeness, flavor and buttery tenderness of the genuine article. Mortadella Bologna is the only version to have received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recognition. Mortadella has a relatively low sodium content and is easily digestible. It is an outstanding source of beneficial 5
proteins, 14.7 grams for each 100 grams of Mortadella. It also contains iron and fatty acids that are nutritionally beneficial. The fats in Mortadella consist, for the most part, of monounsaturated fatty acids, the best for the human organism. That means that Mortadella does not contain large quantities of cholesterol, only 70 milligrams in 100 grams, which is more or less the same quantity contained in 100 grams of chicken.
Prosciutto Crudo Prosciutto is a general term for ham (prosciugare means “to dry”), including prosciutto cotto or “cooked ham” which is in the same category as American boiled ham, and prosciutto crudo, the remarkable uncooked, air-dried, saltcured ham of Italy. The most famous prosciutti crudi are Prosciutto di Parma, produced in Langhirano, in the province of Parma, and in Modena, which lie in the region of Emilia-Romagna and Prosciutto di San Daniele, made in the hill town of San Daniele in the region of Friuli. All the zones producing prosciutto crudo have received European recognition with the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) seal. Prosciutto crudo offers the nose an intense aroma, but the flavor is sweet, delicate and inimitable. Conoscenti describe the best prosciutto crudo with much the same passion and precision that oenophiles talk about wines: each slice should have a creamy rim of fat around it, and the fragrance of the meat should conjure hay, vineyards and earth-aromas that come from the breezes that blow through the windows of the buildings in which prosciutti are hung to dry. Its color should
6
be rosy, never sallow. The natural sweetness of pork should come through, but the taste should be complex. The prosciutto crudo produced today in Italy is a result of two thousand years of evolution in ham making. Its ancestors, made from wild boars that roamed the Parma forests, were highly salted. Rennaissance recipes suggest the addition of vinegar, wine and such flavorings as coriander, fennel and cloves. Today’s prosciutto is made of only four ingredients: hand-selected legs of the most pampered pigs, salt, air and skill.
The process begins with with the trimming of excess fat off the leg. At this point, experienced ham makers massage the hams, spread them out on inclined shelves and cover them with salt. This is the salting phase, a critical step in the process. The meat is then washed well with a brush and left to dry. The final stage is curing. Today’s premier prosciutto makers pride themselves on being able to produce the hams with as little salt as possible: the greater the maker, the less salt used. Salt is just a backdrop and should never be prominent. The meat and the fat that surrounds it should be so tender as almost to melt in the mouth. The tasty rim of fat surrounding a slice of prosciutto is an integral part of the prosciutto experience. The flesh should be supple, not at all resistant to the bite. Prosciutto crudo, which ranks among the leanest of preserved meats, offers a particularly high concentration of proteins: 100 grams of ham supplies 26.9 grams of protein, a level that amounts to about half of the daily minimum requirement for a healthy adult. They are proteins of high 7
nutritional value as they contain all the amino acids upon which the human body depends. Due to the particular methods of curing pork for prosciutto crudo, even the fat of the finished ham is easily digested. A substantial amount of iron and B-vitamins round out the nutritional benefits. The average caloric supply amounts to 224 per 100 grams of prosciutto crudo. The ratio drops to 159 calories if the fat encasing the ham is removed before consumption. Prosciutto Cotto, cooked ham, is the leading salume in Italy in terms of sales. It is a fundamental ingredient in cooking but it is also enjoyed on its own, in sandwiches and in salads. Prosciutto cotto is produced using deboned hams. Salt, pepper, bay leaf and juniper are used to flavor the brine. Its quality depends on the wholesomeness of the raw materials and the skill with which the ham is cooked. The virtues of prosciutto cotto include outstanding, wholesome proteins, a limited fat content and a substantial endowment of mineral salts. It is extremely digestible.
Speck Alto Adige PGI Speck dell’Alto Adige (PGI) or Sßdtirol, the Germanspeaking province of Bolzano, is an artisanally-made ham produced by combining techniques of air-curing, cold
smoking with maple and beechwood, and brining in a blend of garlic, juniper berries, laurel leaves and black pepper. The best part of the pork haunch (the thigh) is pressed into succulent irregular blocks and aged for several months, at which point they are firm, yet moist. Speck has been made 8
in this area for 500 years and is an intrinsic part of country life. “It melts in your mouth like a cream puff,” wrote an unidentified writer of a travelogue. Speck is both sweet and intense with a subtle but smoky flavor, a happy marriage of Mediterranean and Germanic flavors. It can be eaten in paper-thin slices wrapped around breadsticks, like prosciutto, or placed atop whole-grain bread, or cut into thick dice or strips and added to a soffritto as a base for flavoring pasta, risotto and other dishes. Two-thirds of Speck’s small fat content is composed of fatty acids, the so-called “good” fats. These monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats are similar to those found in high-quality olive oil. Speck also contains a remarkable quantity of nutritional protein and is rich in essential amino acids, not to mention important, easily digestible minerals, such as iron and zinc. Bresaola, a product of the Valtellina valley of the Alps in Italy’s Lombardy region, is salted, air-dried fillet of beef. Bresaola has a more aggressive flavor than prosciutto and is best served as an antipasto with nothing more than a little extra-virgin olive oil drizzled over it, a splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice and a veil of freshly-milled black pepper. It should be eaten within six hours, but certainly within twenty-four hours after cutting to prevent drying and loss of flavor. Cotechino, the famous salume of Emilia-Romagna that requires cooking, is cylindrical in shape, a deep mahogany color on the outside with a soft pink interior. In the mouth, the flavor is sapid with an aftertaste tending to sweet and spicy. Cotechino is cut in thick slices and eaten piping hot, accompanied by purèed potatoes, lentils or cooked vegetables. It is one of the most popular dishes of the New Year holiday celebration, when it is served with lentils, which symbolize coins or abundance in the new year. Cotechino is made from selected lean pork and rind (cotenna), from whence comes its name. The meat is ground to a medium texture, flavored with salt, pepper, nutmeg and cloves and left to infuse in red wine. The mixture is then 9
stuffed into a membrane and the sausage is either left to mature for a month, or pre-cooked. Cotechino Modena, considered one of the most delectable of Italian products, has received the prestigious PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) recognition of the European Union.
Preserving Salumi Once salumi are cut into, their protective outer seal is broken and precaution should be taken to avoid spoilage. Ideally, all salumi should be eaten as soon as they are sliced. Buy sliced salumi the same day they will be eaten to ensure that they will be moist and fresh. Keep them refrigerated in the original wrapping until use. If there is any left over, protect them with fresh wrappings and return them to the refrigerator.
In the case of sealed packaged salumi, which assure preservation of their flavor and texture, use them before the expiration date indicated. Italian salumi have unique characteristics that permit them to be cut into extremely thin slices. This is a result of a process that has been developed over time through expert and prolonged curing of the raw salumi, as well as the compactness of the meat and uniformity of the stuffing of cooked products. From the sensory standpoint, the thinner the slice, the greater the impact of the fragrance and delicacy to the taster. Salumi experts say that slices of well-cut salame must be able to stand unsupported on their rims. 10
Enjoy Salumi by trying out our suggested recipes.
Canapé al Prosciutto di San Daniele, mozzarella e pomodoro Tomato, Mozzarella and Prosciutto di San Daniele Canapés Makes 12 canapés Prosciutto crudo is ideal for canapés, small bread slices with savory toppings, such as this classic festive appetizer. Use a baguette-style bread with a diameter the same size as the tomato slices.
12 round slices artisanal-style bread of equal size 12 firm, vine-ripened fresh tomato slices of equal size 12 thin slices unsalted, freshly-made mozzarella of equal size to fit neatly over the bread rounds 12 paper-thin slices imported Italian Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO 12 large leaves fresh basil Lay the bread slices out on your work surface. Over each, place a tomato slice, a piece of mozzarella and a slice of Prosciutto di San Daniele, folded as necessary to fit neatly over it, in that order. Top each canapé with a basil leaf. Transfer to a platter and serve.
Cestini di Grana Padano con fiori di Mortadella Bologna Grana Padano “Baskets” with “Flowers” of Mortadella Bologna Makes 4 individual appetizers
4 heaping tablespoons freshly grated Grana Padano PDO cheese 8 paper-thin slices of Mortadella Bologna PGI 2 tablespoons shelled and chopped pistachios Warm a wide griddle or frying pan over low heat. Carefully spoon each of the tablespoons of grated cheese 11
onto the pan surface to form four separate circles of cheese. As the cheese melts, the circles will become thin wafers. When the wafers are golden but before they begin to turn brown and become bitter, use a spatula to lift them off the pan. Transfer them to four individual appetizer plates and allow to cool and harden. Pick up each slice of Mortadella Bologna and form it into a rosette to fit atop each of the wafers. Arrange each rosette in the center of each wafer. Scatter the pistachios over each. Serve at once.
Speck Alto Adige and Asiago Carpaccio Makes 4 individual appetizers
24 slices of Speck Alto Adige PGI 3 1/2 ounces of arugula Asiago Stagionato PDO cheese extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling Distribute the arugula on 4 plates. Add 6 slices of Speck on each plate. Top with cheese shavings and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.
12
Tagliatelle con Prosciutto di Parma e Panna Tagliatelle with Parma Ham and Cream For 4 People
1 pound fresh tagliatelle or fettuccine 1/4 pound Prosciutto di Parma PDO, thick sliced and cut in strips 8 tablespoons unsalted butter 3/4 cup cream 2/3 cup freshly-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano速 PDO fresh-milled white pepper Boil the water for the pasta. Put the butter in a skillet large enough to accommodate the noodles later and place it over the pot with the boiling water to melt it. Do not let it come to a simmer. Add the noodles and salt to the water when it boils. Cover. When water comes to a boil again, drain the pasta. Add the prosciutto to the skillet, stir and add the pasta. Toss gently using two forks. Add the cream, plenty of pepper and the Parmigiano, continuing to toss until the ingredients are even throughout. Serve.
Bresaola della Valtellina alla montanara Bresaola della Valtellina in the Style of the Mountaineer An appetizer for 4 people
1/2 pound paper-thin slices of Bresaola della Valtellina extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling 2 lemons freshly milled black pepper 2 tablespoons fresh thyme and marjoram leaves On a serving platter or individual appetizer plates arrange the Bresaola in rosettes or parallel slices. Drizzle with olive oil and the juice of one lemon. Slice the remaining lemon for garnish. Scatter the thyme and marjoram leaves over the meat. Chill for 10 minutes. Serve at once. 13
Italian Trade Commission 33 East 67th Street, New York, NY 10065 tel. 212.980.1500