Sketchbook: Fashion Theory and Concept Development

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CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT


My research has always focused upon different areas that I feel I could collaborate with. I don’t seem to have a particular interest in one set medium but more so merging the two. The use of art, space and fashion is something I want to apply to within my final year of practice. Looking at objects more differently then before exploring the boundaries of a minimalistic approach I know I so identify with. Exploring contemporary cultures within my interest are something I aim to pursue.


I have always been passionate about clean lines and bold text. Less is more but the manipulation of spacing can be used to create something far more than anything ‘less’.

SPATIAL UNDERSTANDING AND MANIPULATION


My research has taken a rather architectural route in the beginning stages, this is due to the idea of working with exhibition spaces. The overlapping of strong imagery and versatile effects changes the way we percieve what we intially knew. It shows that one has the ability to take what know and transform to something we might not have seen before.



Its this feeling of wanting to explore other parts of the world, I do feel that as much as I enjoy the international hub of the United Kingdom, I do want to explore areas that are in need of much attention, especially where a story is told.



One is given the choice of multiple fashionable items at entry level pricing, giving the consumer the ability to look and feel great. Mr Price is very much the same within its own environment of South Africa, allowing the mass population the ability to dress well for less. It could be questionable why such a brand would want to cross seas to such a huge competitor like Primark, however Mr Price also provides their customers with not only clothing but a lifestyle choice. There is always room for choice, and since we are dealing with consumers who seek variety in their life, Mr Price could provide this through skillful marketing and a diverse selection of clothing.

MRP

Changing Focus to something more applicable.


IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THE FIRST TYPE OF CONTACT WE HAVE WITH THE BRAND, AND THE EMOTIONAL FEEL ONE HAS WITH WHAT IS APPARANT. ONLY LATER WILL EMOTIONS AND FEELINGS BEGIN TO FORM ONCE WE ARE THE USER OF THE PRODUCT. I AM BEGINNING TO NOTICE HOW I ENJOY MIXING IMAGERY AND UNDERSTANDING THE IMPACT ONE CAN CREATE.


strengths: -Affordable, Up to date trends, Youthful, Range of sizing, Home ware available, Sportswear available, Rand to Sterling therefore weak therefore pricing better than most entry level retailers, incentives offered to both customers and employees, promotes local South African designers through mini collection launches through their stores, collaborations with international celebrities to improve brand and product image, unique clothing items, Developed sub-brands to target different audiences.

weaknesses: -Huge competitors like Primark, Boohoo and H&M, season behind as the brand operates in a different hemisphere, Poor logo, lack of innovation for their website (no real attraction for UK customers),

oppurtunities:

-Improve website to target a greater audience, improve marketing tactics, establish a recognised brand within the UK which could lead to a retail space, provide customers with a variety of clothing (a choice from Primark), establish a source closer within Europe to easily ship merchandise

Threats: -UK customers will still return to Primark and other brands due to familiarity, possible shipping delays, lack of innovation/excitement to attract the customer, political issues within South Africa holding the brand back

political: The country is within its fourth democratic national election led by Jacob Zuma, The country is currently facing corruption within the political sector causing international investors withdrawing from large mining deals.

economic: South Africa has the largest economy within the African continent, The apartheid still effects the economic efficiency and job creation within the country, The rand is one of the weakest currencies worldwide, The World Bank classifies South Africa as an upper-middle economy, South Africa accounts for 24% of its gross domestic product, The introduction of BEE (black economic empowerment) has enforced job recreation within disadvantaged communities however has not effectively improved majority of South African lives, high rates of unemployment, in 2013 the retail and textile trade contributed to 14% of manufacturing employment

social: Large developments within traditional craftsmanship of South Africa, The retail sector is one of the highest contributors towards the countries’ GDP, Fashion weeks within South Africa are being internationally recognised, Corporate Social Investment within South Africa has opened more design schools as well as offer apprenticeships within established business to encourage employment within younger generations, HIV/AIDS still has the largest infection rate within South Africa

technological: The technological advancements within the retail market has become capital intensive for South Africa which creates synthetic fibres in large portions, developments within transportation and communication has increased further success within the retail industry, introduction of mobile applications used for online shopping has increased retail industry sales, fibre optic internet connection has improved access to the internet and heightened electronic commerce.


UNDERSTANDING THE SOUTH AFRICAN CONSUMER: FAMILY: Family: Mr Price offers a range of clothing to suit all sizes and ages, this is an ideal brand for any family, whereby each member would have their needs met. Due to lower pricing this target group would be from a lower socio-economic background, whereby affordability and bargain hunting is key. Mr Price still does provide fashionable clothing at this price, allowing the family to look and feel good. The lower pricing also allows the family to shop more and multiply their purchases. The family target market would be shop through the

YOUNGER STUDENTS: Mr Price offers fashion foreword clothing at an affordable price. Their ideal younger customer would be between the ages of 16-25, whereby income is fairly low but the need to look good is evident. They have introduced younger designers to create diffusion lines, which allow the customer to feel a slight exclusivity in their purchases. The retailer offers a variety of products for both female and male, with a range of sizing. These younger customers would have access to the Internet in order to purchase online. In providing affordable fashion, the customer would want to multiply certain goods in various colours because of the value offered. These younger members would have an urban approach to the way they dress when shopping at Mr Price. This audience would shop through their RT section.

PROFESSIONAL WORKERS Mr Price provides professional work clothes, for any female or male in the office environment. This customer would not be too concerned with the level of quality their suit shows but more the professional look they show. The affordable pricing allows this worker to buy numerous outfits without damaging the bank. The age bracket for such a customer could be from 25-45, depending on their level of income. Mr Price is still at an advantage where their work wear provided is slightly more expensive than the urban wear offered to enable better quality. The sub-brand Oakridge formalwear would be applicable for this target customer.



The use of collage is a meduim unfamilair to what I know, yet with looking at thse chose brand I wish to transform, I feel there needs to be a surge of creativity. This type of creative platform can be used in describing the ideal customer for the brand or could be maniuplated in fun ways for website layouts. The nispiration I took was the playful side KENZO display in their branding, the mixing of shapes and forms, building and translating this cool aesthetic.


Consumer-Generated Media is one the fastest growing aspects of a business, this is greatly seen in Mr Price as a lot of their social media platforms (blog and instagram) have a far current approach. The blog and Instagram sites are regulary updated, providing their consumers with fast fashion ideas and the interesting elements of inspiration the brand uses. It is a pity that the website does not obtain such imagery, as the site holds little imagination and little attraction for overseas audiences. The Instagram account holds far more applicable imagery for the brand, almost so it could be used for the website.


TAMARA CHEREIDYSON FOR MRP

NICK COUTTS FOR MR P

Collaboration with emerging talent proves to strengthen the brand. In these images, collaborations with emerging South African designers is replicated in a small diffusion line. This type of collaboration will target a more urban fashion buyer, someone who is aware of trends and wanting them at affordable prices. In adopting this method towards MRP for the UK consumer, it would create a strong following for the brand but also fill a gap in the market, where entry level retailers are now introducing contemporary collaborations


-entry level retailer selling affordable, fashionable garements -most successful retailer of 2014 (Mintel) -range of sizing -large product range -branding dull/ lack of care -no environmental awareness through fashion ethics -no adverstising -lack of digital innovation -lack of customer care

-web based retailer -rather glamourous approach to fashion (kitsch) -advertises with skinnier girls almost sublty hinting their desried clientel -no flagship store -no digital innovations relevant on site -poor branding

- web based retailer -offeres low end and high end garemnets -creative layout -online publication available -marketplace promotes local/international talent -no flagship store -no childrenswear offered -wide range of sizing -no celebrity endorsement -bold branding -playful/daring -on trend

-offers high end and low end product range -offers homeware -outsources production often highlighting their lack of care for ethics and sustainability -encourages fashion designer collaboration -bold logo but lack of digital innovation -contemporary store layouts -on trend -could create garments for older generation (50+)


STYLE

FASHION

ACCESSORIES

cool

BOLD

minimal

daring

PRACTICAL

quality focus

laidback

MINIMAL

less is more

sophisticated

GRUNGE

large shoulder bag

different

UNIQUE

collector

URBAN

forever changing

STREET-CHIC ADVENTUROUS


Interests lifetsyle

character

photography

little income

streetwise

Cooking

courageous

confident

exploring new areas

thrifty

very sensitive

following bloggers

an explorer

passionate about indiviuality

reading

city girl

open minded

walking

loves discovering new fashion

introvert

getting creative

party

extrovert

partying

blogs

caring

socialising

takes random pictures

kind

discovering new hangouts

aspires to be different (but who is actually different?)

stubborn

loves new food places market follower passionate curios explorer

creative

interiors minimal all white lots of photographs candle lit lots of books


new media instagram twitter tumblr v-files designspiration style.com facebook tinder

art

music

abstract

alternative

political

electronic

emotive

hip hop

graphic

fka twigs

bauhuas

die antwoord

julian schnabel

jurraisic five

jackson pollock

the xx

yayoi kusuma

the natives

franz kline

james blake


The new ideal UK customer: This young female will range between the ages of 1825, whom has a distinct taste in clothing and always aspiring to be the most stylish of the group. She will follow high street trends but will create her own twist on garments. This creative female keeps busy by socializing in hip areas or blogging about her latest finds. Owing to fashion trends having little life expectancy, she enjoys to shop regularly but at lower prices. This customer is often relying on family to support her fashion habits but is beginning to fully integrate herself within the working environment, just to be more independent. She may be either classed as student or a worker, to which she will always want to look her very. She is often listening and following the latest emerging British artists. Not shy from being apart of the generation Y, she will always want things fast and affordable.


Ideally I would like to communicate this new brand with an innovative south african artist, this could be applied by using the likes of Yoalndi Visser- an idol of most international music lovers. Her edge and unique style could be used to communcate the brands new approach however this would possiby concflict with attracting the correct UK consumer, as described on the left. In collaboratin with Yolandi the colelction would differ as appossed to focusing on someone like FKA TWIGs.


MRP MRP The branding for MRP is very clean and simple, this is something I would possibly develop further if I take this project onto FMP.I like the basic lettering and bold framed outline. In their website the bland red used for mrp is not nearly as effective as it should be, your engaged conusmer has no way of identifying this brand. Keeping it bold and clean, makes the brand stand out clearly, it also allows the brand to blend well with swing tags on garemnents and possible. I have begun experiemnting with colour for web layouts, but keeping it clean and simple truly makes this brand appear more mature, and confident.


MRP

There are so many ways the brand can be placed into a setting to reflect its strength. On a image or even a garment, the image is clear, the brand looks confident/exclusive. Their current competitors don’t use such bold use of text in their labels/brand.


FKA TWIGS: british, avante-garde, realistic, local, creative, dynamic, self taught

“I’ve always done really weird things. Everybody was like, ‘Why do you do ballet?’, and, ‘Why do you wanna sing opera?’, and ‘Why are you singing jazz with 80-year-olds? Why do you wanna do those things?!’"


MRP has decided to initiate their launch through collaboration with the dynamic UK artist, FKA Twigs. This collaboration will give the brand necessary support and exposure into the correct markets within the UK. Fka Twigs is not shy to share her opinion or her avant garde style, her music is real and expressive. MRP wanted to take upon an artist as such because Twigs is different; she is unique within the industry and that is her greatest success. MRP want to be seen differently to their competitors and previous brand perception, therefore through a Twigs inspired collection, this brand shall create a strong following within their targeted audience. Twigs will bring a sense of authenticity and UK localisation to this South African retailer, this is mandatory in breaking into such a competitive retail market.


it is clear that entry level reatilers focus upon selling large volume of goods apposed to focusing on aesthetics through web and marketing development. i want mrp to be experiemntal with the way they approach their website and their brand. I want there to be consistent experimentation throughout the brands growth. it is quite clear that a more playful and light hearted theme is seen.


Website layouts we see today set a theme of very image based, usually the main part of the website. Since I would need my brand to stand out, i want to experiment with colour, pattern and text. As much as i love a white background, the images i am using are not my own therefore i need to get creative. Using basic block colours are effective and can frame an image well. Using adobe muse is a new technique I am learning, I would have usually chosen squarespace, however one does not need to code in order to formulate a website on muse.


experimentation exmaples of using photoshop to illustrate my web design layouts using photoshop for web layouts is an effective way of communicating my ideas however, I do want to look at exploring deifferent meduims in the way this is displayed. photoshop just cerate flat images for web proprsal, i do feel that it is hard to imagine how this would be seen on a dekstop/laptop. squarespace is a useful source for this type of development but could be limiting in the crearivity i want to show in this brand.


It is evident that i might need to incorporate a background print for my website. Each of these suggest such different themes, I have also taken to illustrator to develop pattern ideas further.


bold letters to distinguish the brand Usually I would focus on developing a website on squares-pace, where formats are availbale and one can change the content. However I have always felt a bit limited in this approach as there is only so much creative freedom one can have. Since adobe muse is a platform in which one can be creative without coding for a website, I have decided to teach myself this tool. I could have used Photoshop to provide my ideas for layout but I wanted this website to appear as real as possible, i wanted to have the necessary tools in which one can change pages. Luckily there are many tutorials online which have taught me a few smart tricks on the application, allowing me to understand the system muse used. luckily muse is similar to InDesign, a platform to which i have without a doubt strengthened since second year. i am wanting to create a rather playful website, where graphics and images are different to what mr price currently offer.

collage of twigs, suggesting a quirkiness to the brand

familiar social media platfroms so the user feels more familiar with the brand

use of grey and orange effective, youthful

a synopsis of the brand and their collaboration with twigs


as much as i reallly enjoyed first creating this site, when it is enlarged on a desktop/laptop, the look of it changes everything. a white background is effective if there is a lot more activity within the page. i would need to play more with information and layout to develop this further. i think i also need to start playing with a background, print is effective and almost striking on a desktop. muse has allowed me to establish what works well within a web page, Photoshop allows me to manipulate images but does not provide me with the actual feeling of a website.


i started placing colour and different patterns into my website layout, the colours are a bit off but i am beginning to see how important playing with the ‘negative’ space can be. i like the colour palette of pink/yellow/grey/black, it is different to what the current competitors are doing and makes the web-page stand out. changing the orientation of imagery and ‘widgets’ (key navigation) is making me look at the space a lot more differently.


-the current website is formatted as a moodborad/tumblr of the brand -images are used to describe the collection and what twigs supposedly likes -image based -icons to shop/get to know the collaboratier are in bright colours -mrp becomes black/white with the use of texture as the brand image -lack of digital content (social media, online styling etc) -almost appears lost -does appear like a pinterest/ designspiration moodboard


I have taken myself back to using print and exploring image layout. i do think a print as a background is effective. i used the print from the original black and white image- yet changed the colour and tiled it differently on adobe illustrator making the background my own (mrp’s print). i have incorporated smaller social media icons to make the website more interactive, as well as creating an online styling application powered by google. these are just small techniques in making the wesbite intreactive with the correct target consumer. the actualy layout is highly effective on a desktop, it does automactiaclly attract one as well as being different from their current competitors.

live competition to enage with the brand/twigs


a brief synopsis of the brand, just to educate the user about who they are and where they stand within fashion. writing an introduction to who they are would be something that would not feature for long, but just for a few months whilst the brand is wanting to establish their identity/ethos.


colour would appear on your desired item

the google styling icon, and enticing the user to use.

i was somewhat hesitant to form a ‘shop’ page just because it was not something i wanted to develop further however in order to actually generate the correct website formatting for such a brand, i would need to create a ‘fictitious’ collection to sell. i chose clothing that suited both the brand and the collaborator. a limited but could be extended product range. its about setting the tone for the brand.


With approx. 500 exhibitors from the sectors of Denim, Sportswear, Street Fashion, Function Wear and Casual Dressed Up, BREAD & BUTTER represents the contemporary segment of Street and Urbanwear.

understanding the bread and butter Trade Show -Founded in 2001 -Held in janurary and july -usually based in berlin (european market) -held over 28 shows -september 2015 will be launched in seol (floating island) STRENGTHS FOR MRP: -Great European exposure for the brand -build a brand image amongst household european names WEAKNESSES FOR MRP: -highly competitive market, competing with high end brands -lack of brand knowledge amongst crowds OPPURTUNITES FOR MRP: -See what other competitors are offering and learn for the future -understanding what european customers want THREATS FOR MRP: -lack of stand developement to stand out -lack of funding to support stand proposal



previous years stand exmaples

-Stands are very garment driven, they are displayed in ways that represent art -heavily denim focused -mrp could use technology and colour to bridge their gap in the market with this event -large stand spacing, so planned space is very important and constructing effective foot traffic control -the idea of twigs being a hologram could be very effective -use of white and colour could stand out amongst the crowds -promotional packaging would be key in this type of event as people carrying mrp advertrisement would encourage vistors to the stand -highly skilled promotion staff would be used for this type of event to upsell the brand


SKETCH UP DEVELOPMENT FOR THE STAND

I AM LUCKY IN THE FACT THAT I HAVE WORKED WITH SKETCHUP IN SECOND YEAR AND THEN DEVELOPED MY SKILLS FURTHER, THE IDEA FOR THE STAND IS VERY MINIMAL BUT BOLD ENOUGH TO IDENTIFY THE BRAND: MRP. SKETCH-UP IS FAIRLY TRICKY TO USE IF ONE IS NOT AWARE OF THE VARIOUS TOOLS AND SETTINGS. AFTER DEVELOPING MY STAND IDEAS, I WILL THEN USE A NEW APPLICATION: KERKYTHEA TO RENDER THE IMAGES. THIS IS A NEW TOOL I HAVE LEARNED WITH A HELP OF A TUTOR TO ACTUALLY BRING ‘LIFE’ INTO MY SKETCHES. THE MODE OF RENDERING OBJECTS DOES CHANGE THE WHOLE MOOD/ COLOUR OF THE SKETCHES.

ONE CAN SE THE DRASTIC CHANGE KERKYTHEA HAS ON AN IMAGE.


KERKYTHEA


I am starting to incorporate the colours used in my website and transfer these the model. I do want there to be some cohesion. I have used the colour palette in market report therefore I do need to use it in this model. i want elements of the stand to have digital touch tables (an interactive stand similar to an interactive website)

SKETCH UP

KERKYTHEA


since there is a bold colour scheme being applied to the website and marketing report, I think a bright stand would be coo. the use of technology and cool constructed pages will be ideal. i like the idea of mixing abstract art with minimal spaces.


virtual goggles will be displayed to view the catwalk show featuring twigs garements will be displayed at different heights to focus upon the development of the brand

back wall will incorporate wallpaper and bright use of text for mrp

digital tables/inetractive media

there will be a hologram pf twigs performing and wearing her collection

interesting use of shelving for displaying products and media tablets



this layout is more compartmentalised, where block forms are used to construct the space. The use of digital touch tables/surfaces are evident. Garments are going to be hung from the wall. the use of different colour lights will lighten the stand up. i feel this stand is far more ffective in attracting the passing crowds through bred and butter.


Whilst the stand needs to be attracting an audience, I would think that the use of colour would be in some parts, not the entire stand. I still want the stand to be conceptual, and reflect a strong aesthetic. The brand needs to show the UK that they are willing to push the boundaries with technology and fashion forward thinking. As much as my taste would want something plain and minimalist, I know that colour, texture and shape is what will allow the audience to engage.


Using kerkythea is fairly simple, one needs to adjust the shadows in sketchup then by exporting this to the extension, you will have the ability to create the image below. my final idea for the stand would be the one below, the layout is far more modular but more eye catching. the different levels will be white boxes with surfaces in bold pinks/yellows and reflectors. Garments will be suspended from the left hand side large wall with accessories being scattered all over the different levels. the main island within the stand will have touch screens allowing the viewer to see the catwalk show and performances by twigs. the seating will be scattered around the stand, but more emphasis will be played upon movement around the objects then comfortably sitting down.


For future thoughts in developing this idea further, I would focus more on branding/ and product development. i say product development, i would focus on promotional packaging for the event, stationary and possibly accessories. i started thinking of looking at event invites, using q-r coding to claim your ticket to the bread and butter trade show. i am particularly influenced by work from the agency Roandco. There strategies in product and promotion development is creative, contemporary and effective.


AS I HAVE MENTIONED THROUGH MY RESEARCH OF THIS BRAND, IN ORDER TO TRULY MAKE AN IMPACT WITH THIS BRAND I WOULD NEED TO FOCUS ON CREATING A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE FOR THE SHOPPER. THIS WOULD BE DONE BY FOCUSING ON SWING TAGS, PACKAGING AND POSSIBLE ‘PERKS’ OF THE PURCHASE. IF I WERE TO TAKE THIS PROJECT FURTHER, I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE MY TARGET CONSUMER THE SAME FEELING IN WHICH SOMEONE WHO WOULD PURCHASE FROM NET-A-PORTER. OBVIOUSLY THE PRODUCTS WOULD VARY, BUT WITH THE ATTENTION TO DETAIL NETA-PORTER GIVE, THE CONSUMER IMMEDIATELY FEELS ‘SPECIAL’. THE FEELING OF RECEIVING THE BLACK BOX FILLED WITH CAREFULLY FOLDED TISSUE PAPER, AND YOUR PRODUCT WRAPPED LIKE A GIFT IS A ONCE OFF EXPERIENCE. I WANT MRP TO PROVIDE THIS THE BEST WAY POSSIBLE TO THEIR TARGET AUDIENCE.



I did a basic mock up of what the invite to the Bread & Butter stand would be, This would relate to the marketing report. the paper would be thick card, using almost a silk finish for the text and colour stripes. the idea of q-r code would be used to scan in order to get your ticket information. something fairly modern but widely used for many events today. i would like the invite to be the size of a small ipad device, the thickness of the paper could also hold a small chip allowing the person to use it as an access pass to a proposed after party. the idea is that mrp will be considered the forefront of technology for entry level retailers.


EVALUATION: At the start of this project, there was great excitement in starting the final year’s work, a lot of mixed emotions ran through me at this point. I know for certain that my end of the year result would be me working on Graduate Fashion Week however it was the question I asked myself many a time through this project- how does it all add up? How would I begin my journey in formulating my Final Major Project? The beginning weeks of research, took a lot longer than I had expected. In developing an idea that would best represent and develop my skill set was a challenging task. I was quite adamant at the start to transform myself into a brand, where I had taken a liking to exploring the opportunities within my home country of South Africa and expanding them within the United Kingdom. The idea had not lasted as long as I would have hoped, as I felt not enough research was developing these ideas further. Tutorials had become challenging, in which I could support this marvellous ‘first-idea’. I took to blogging, not share each and every emotion of each day, but I felt the use of writing and reflecting upon certain topics allowed to me develop further. During my collection of various data, I came to realise how many brands with South Africa would need changing in order to suite a European market. This was when I had decided to take upon a ReBrand Task of Mr Price South Africa, and launch an applicable website for the European market. There has been an extensive amount of research and development put into this project. I found that I spent a lot of time on the original brand within South Africa instead of focusing on what I was wanting to produce. However, with the correct guidance received at the midpoint review, I was able to put all my hard work into play and set a steady focus. I have developed my skills within inDesign and Illustrator hugely, as I had not touched most of these platforms during second year. I have also acquired new skills with Sketch Up to develop my stand ideas further by using the new application called Kerkythea. I am incredibly proud of learning Adobe Muse, as this has allowed me to develop a strong website with my own creative formatting. I was going to pursue the path of Square space however in learning about Muse, I was able enough to complete this task. Amongst all my creative and concept development, I have put a lot of time into my marketing report. The document took a great deal of time to compile and also to layout. I do think for future report development I would focus on more visuals of my work, not allowing the document to be too text heavy. I would also like to formulate my own graphs of findings through primary research in future reports. In creating this formal report, I learned a lot more terminology within marketing, allowing my vocabulary to be more applicable. In this project I do feel that more attention would be needed in developing my stand ideas further. I have learned far more than I knew in the beginning, yet I spent a lot of time on Muse, which possibly should have been equally divided between both Sketch Up and the website. If I am to pursue this task alongside my FMP focus, I would spend more time on the branding of the company. I think there could be exciting developments within the MRP brand. Overall, I do feel this project has taught me a lot about thorough research, correct consumer profiling and really questioning if your idea would be sustainable in this current fashion market. I have enjoy this creative journey thoroughly, where at times I found myself to be rather lost or despondent at ideas not working, but through determination and willingness to learn I have broken some boundaries. In concluding this project, I would like to focus on developing my visuals further for my final major project, explore further findings in Muse and look at effective branding ideas if I wish to pursue MRP.


BIBLIOGRAPHY

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BLOG: http://margotgeorgievantonder.tumblr.com/ WEBSITE: http://www.mrp-clothing.co.uk/index.html


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