001 April, 2019
STYLE SURVIVAL GUIDE
beauty fashion decades rules
WARNING! To conform with any definition of beauty can cause body dissatisfaction, low self-esteem, and eating disorder!
Star, Hollywood by Robert Frank, 1956
“Women expect to see a mirror of herself, of her fantasies, of how she wants to be seen by others, of what clothes she can wear and how she can wear them.” Alexander Liberman
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Most Influential Fashion Trends that Stay for the Decades
TO
The most stylish dresses of the season compete in the amount of lavish decor and the widest possible skirts supported by crinoline.
be considered stylish, women should reflect their
Another essential of the decade is a deep cleavage that can help you
motherly position in society. A tight corset will
show off “swell of breast’ and firmness of the shoulder.
help you achieve an acceptable waistline. Although
the corset can restrain you from physical activity and range of motion,
Last but not least, the hair is the symbol of the femininity, it has to be
it is a necessary tool to achieve an hourglass figure.
long and loose in a bedroom and high and complex in public.
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context
from the invention of photography (1839) to 1870s
Clara Silvois, Andre DisdĂŠri. 1862.
Photography was a new and unexplored me-
The most influential figure of
dium. It was not defined as art or science, but
the era was a queen Victoria of
something in between. The most popular type
England who became a young
of photographs were daguerreotypes (expensive
wife and mother. Domesticity,
and detailed) and carte-de-visite (quick and af-
family, and motherhood were highly valued in
fordable, made it possible for people to own their
Victorian society because these values were em-
photos). As photography turned from hobby to
bodied by Queen Victoria herself.
industry, more and more paper photographs were produced and the market for multiple copies grew. The perception that one can own a photograph of oneself or others essentially yielded to
Virginia Oldoini, Countess Verasis de Castiglione (1837 — 1899) created a sen-
the notion of what one wants to see.
sation when she appeared in Paris in 1855. A statuesque beauty with a flair for drama, the countess was the mistress of Napoleon III. The brief romance helped establish her reputation as a beautiful and enigmatic seductress and fashionista of her time. She was enthralled with the study of her own beauty and collaborated with photographer Pierre-Louis Pierson on over 700 self-portraits. While Pierson operated the camera, the pose, dress, setting, and angle were all conceived by the countess.
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THE NEW STAR
Ballrooms Can’t Stop Talking About For the recent trends, we turn our head to Lillian Russell, a famous American actress, and singer. She came to represent a woman of ultimate beauty. Russell, who was blessed with big bones and heavyset, is also known for her golden curls, skin like “roses and cream,” a soprano voice that
B
is the wildest topic of the conversation amongst
eing in style and having a smart
men you should follow her astonishing collec-
outfit for each occasion is already
tion of stylish hats and outfits.
recognized as one of the most ef-
fective ways to stand out in society. The rule of thumb of being stylish in our decade is simple: the quality of the outfit and your appearance are always an indicator of how big your husband’s success is, so we have to be very careful with it.
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can do everything with ease. To know why she
Lillian Russell, 1898 and 1904
context The expansion of industrialization gave birth to the mass-produced and affordable Kodak camera that hit the market in 1888. The new camera separated the act of
1880s &1890s
taking and making photographs. Photographs started to be printed in newspapers and magazines using the half-tone process which in turn fostered their production. The competition between publications was high and they used celebrity photographs to promote themselves. The blossoming capitalist economy was producing more and more affluent families, women from newly powerful and wealthy families had more of leisure time and money to spend. Beauty magazines had grown considerably by 1880. The new magazines introduced paper patterns which encourage everyone to look at fashion and beauty magazines for the latest trends.
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1900s
context Photography undergoes the split between vernacular and art photography. Snapshots, stereographs, postcards, newspaper illustration and
MODEL CASTING CALL
advertisements on one hand, and art photography based on aesthetic and personal values on the other. American artist Charles Dana Gibson drew images of tall, slim-waisted yet voluptuous woman for mainstream magazines, and these illustrations became a new feminine ideal called “Gibson Girls”.
A woman of affluent family, slender and tall with voluptuous bust and wide hips. Should wear a corset that pinch a waist and torso significantly. Ankles should be thin as they would often be photographed. Should embody the image of Gibson girls, being dreamy and direct, at ease and aware of her beauty, posing and staying natural, sexy and innocent at the same time. Gibson Girls by Charles Dana Gibson, c.1900
“Wear a blank expression and a monumental curl And walk with a bend in your back Then they will call you a Gibson Girl” Camilla Clifford
Camille Clifford, c.1905
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Gibson Girl by Charles Dana Gibson, c.1900
UTTER BEAUTY
While the ideal originally began as the invention of an illustrator, the look was soon brought to life by various models and actresses. Evelyn Nesbit was idealized as a “Gibson Girl,” often posing as a model for Gibson’s illustrations. She was a top-rated
Portrait Miss N. by Gertrude Kasebier, 1902
Evelyn Nesbit by Rudolph Eickemeyer, 1901
artists’ model, actress, and chorus girl who became a New York sensation for her beauty and talent.
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According to t
Dresses by Paul Poiret, 1908-1914
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World’s First Street Style Photographs, c.1910
Pieces Required for th
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1910s
context The French officially launched the international scene of haute couture at Universal Exposition of Paris in 1900. From that time on, the domination of the French in the fashion world was indisputable. Their innovation was accepted as mandates. One of the designers, Paul Poiret, dared to challenge the tradition dating back nearly a century that dictated the construction of women’s waists, definitively ending the rigid corseting that young woman had tolerated for decades. His creation definitely influenced the feminine silhouette — and they made the woman herself more sensual and free. The implication was that his creation released his clients from the rigidity of the old corsets into a new life of freedom.
he French Style
the French T
he most important pieces to start with are colorful costumes that bring freedom of movement to your
everyday activities. If your origin is not French but you still want to be confused with one look at the new shorter skirt styles that are influenced by the dancer’s wardrobe. For the complete French
Portrait of a young Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1910, the same year she opens her first shop on Paris’s Rue Cambon.
look expose your shoulders and arms. The current French trend that is going to stay
If you are a big fan of sport or like to go to the
with us for decades is a V neckline. Rigid chok-
sporting events here and there, the recently
er collar finally gave way to open neckline and
introduced jersey knits by emerging and prom-
it is currently impossible to find any French
ising Coco Chanel should be your must-have.
woman who wears anything but V neck dress. Lastly, to be fully French you should be ready to wear the most daring, sensational, flirtatious, and modest harem trousers.
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2
Designers Will Be Dressing Flappers
IF
you still don’t know who are the most fashionable girls of the day, you should continue reading. The Flapper is a look of a stylish young woman that has little regard for
the uptight behavioral norms and the corseted waist of Victorian-era gowns. The dresses are supposed to be loose fitting and show off a woman’s ankles and knees while typically dancing to jazz music. A sporty and healthy appearance is prized so every woman should adopt a diet and exercise in order to achieve this look, as well as buying cosmetics. The dress with a short loose length and silhouette is a must-have for modern women as well as two designers who form the modern decade. Already established in our wardrobes Coco Chanel recently created the “poor chic” style, opening for a woman a world of comfort inspired by male attire and championing a simple aesthetic. For Chanel, class depends not on money but on style, and we agree with it. Chanel is the first to identify elegance with youth. After she came on the scene, youthful and wear Chanel. A recent discovery of the decade is Madeleine Vionnet. Another revolutionary fashion designer formulated her theory that a dress must adapt to the female body. She created a simple fashion based on straight lines inspired by contemporary art movements, which are already attracting wide attention. In 1926 Vionnet introduced the new must-have bias cut, a technique that allowed the fabric to conform to and enhance the female figure.
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Marion Morehouse wearing Chanel by Edward Steichen, 1927
elegant women no longer have to be mature and married but look
1920s
context
Louise Brooks by Edward Steichen, 1929
The huge wave of experimental photography after the war was propelled by an optimistic perception that the devastation of WWI shuttered Victorian conventions of artistic conduct. Artist became to think of themselves as social engineers, reshaping visual experience. New vision propelled multidisciplinary art exploration intended to shake up the past and form the future. The horrors of WWI gave birth to the cult of youth and hedonism. People wanted to have a good time: dancing, traveling, outing, car racing, and sports were the most trendy activities. By this time many women already held jobs that had been vacated Dresses by Madeleine Vionnet, c.1920
by men during the war years and more women were flowing into the labor market. In 1920 American women were given the right to vote. They were beginning to behave like men, living life vivaciously and sometimes recklessly, gender roles were already changing.
MODEL CASTING CALL
Voting, driving, choosing who they marry and the influence of art deco with its long and nonvoluptuous figures, led to the appearance of the tomboy style, which called for short hair and slim clothes that streamlined the shape of the body.
Marion Morehouse by Edward Steichen, c.1929
A women of androgynous look, curveless and boyish body, downplaying her waist and wearing bras that flattened her breasts. Should be ready to get bound with strips of cloth to achieve a complete boyish look as well as flat abdomen. Hair bob or finger wave should be worn as well as heavy makeup with powder applied to make the skin look as pale as possible. The eyebrows have to be lifted and penciled in to appear thin and bold. Kohl should be used to line the eye and achieve an overall dramatic look.
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A
lways start with your hair. Hair color trends vary depending on a movie star you are trying to emulate. Jean Harlow
made platinum blond a trend, meanwhile, Rita Hayworth made being a redhead popular. Last, but not least, Marlene Dietrich represented for all the brunettes out there. Makeup should be more girl-next-door and less dramatic. The pasty white skin trend is finally out of date, and stylish women are opting for foundations closer to their natural complexions. Colored photographs and pictures of a two-piece bathing suit make us want to adapt a new feminine ideal: athletic figure and tanned skin of an active woman. The most innovative woman now begins to expose their bodies to the sun for a slim, tanned figure. The current trend calls for longer skirts and clothing that shows a natural waist and highlights specific contours of the bodies. The width of the shoulder should be emphasized more than ever before with a padded “coat-hanger look�. The season is characterized by a return to evening wear, long silken dresses tight at the waist and bare at the back. To fit such a dress, we have to really pay attention to what we eat and lift light weights to build muscle tone in the arms and legs. To achieve the same chic in daywear adding a small detail like a hat worn slightly tipped over the forehead would be enough.
Toto Koopman by George Hoyningen Huene, 1930
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How to Achieve a Celebrity Like Look Without a Celebrity Budget
1930s Beach Ball by Steichen, First Colorful Vogue Color, 1932, and Red Hat George Hoyningen Huene, 1933
context Photography’s capacity for entertainment grew, in magazines devoted to celebrity images and in the ubiquitous photo-booth, where 25-cents got a sitter eight small pictures and delight. In 1932 the first colored photograph appeared as a Vogue magazine cover. Stock market collapse in 1929 began the Great Depression that affecting millions of households and bringing a more traditional lifestyle back to women’s image. New fashion trends were born in Hollywood and propagated by the stars.
The elegant sophistication of Hollywood stars was emphasized by George Hurrell. Hurrell shaped faces with light and shadows, drawn in thick sexy eyelashes, and used his retouching pencil to create flawless skin texture. The photo was taken in 1935. The model on this photgraph is Jean Harlow. HEr platinum waves caused a run on peroxide at drugstores, despite its potentially demaging effects.
An iconic photo of Coco Chanel in a little black dress, reclining on a sofa at the Vogue studios in 1937 was taken by Horst P. Horst. On the portrait the couturier is in pensive profile, dreamy and very seductive. This was Chanel’s favorite photograph of herself.
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1940s
context
SOCK SHOCK The whole world was involved in World War II. Wartime requisitioned fashion materials such as silk, nylon, and clothing dye.
T
he all-embracing war changed everything, from fabrics to fashion to the image of wom-
en. Women’s attire trended toward practicality,
with simple blouses and un-elaborate jackets becoming predominant. While the men were away at war, women were tailoring the suits of their men in order to remake them into everyday women’s wear and the women aspired to embrace and emphasize their feminine figures. At this time, the average woman was in reach of having that “celebrity look”. In particular, advertisements now told women how they could avoid a too-skinny look. However, at the beginning of the decade women still clung to one of the last accouterments of femininity: silk stockings. When strict rationing went into effect and the use of synthetic silk was strictly forbidden for any purpose other than the manufacture of parachutes, socks became familiar items and a badge of youth. This period became known as “sock shock”. Non Luxury fabrics became trendy along with pleated skirts, jerseys and bobby socks.
Max Factor produced leg paint to imitate seamed stocking, 1940
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The Trend Every It Girl Will Wear After The Temperature Cools Down
IT
is 1947 and Christian Dior unveils his New Look, the most extreme change in fashion since the advent of Coco Chanel. Characterized by full skirt, tight bodies,
and wasp waists, the New Look is going to restore the world and set the standard of women for the next decade. We all hope that the Dior style will help women erase memories of wartime suffering and to bring back women’s taste for glamor, luxury, and femininity. Called by Dior himself “the art of pleasing”, the New Look is here to make a woman look like a flower, round her shoulders, show her full, feminine bust, handspan waist and enormous, spreading skirt.
‘Bar’ by Dior was a signature ensemble of the first ‘New Look’ collection ‘Coralle’ line by Christian Dior shown in 1947. For some the collection was a breath of fresh air, for others, it was a waste of fabric in the face of continued rationing.
With the immense increase of popularity of cycling due to patrol rationing, dressmakers and tailors are setting to make a suitable clothes for it. In 1939 Aquascutum of London produced a three piece man-made tailored suit that consist of a coa, a skirt and a pair of trousers. A girl can thus ride to work in trousers and then change into a skirt.
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5
STYLISH SECRETS
Smart Women Know that You Don’t Know
T
he primary goal of smart women nowadays is to catch a man and have a family. This goal can be archived by mastering allure dress, but rarely showing a great deal of skin. Rule
number one for getting a man’s attention is never to leave the house looking sloppy. With the current expansion and options of beauty products now we can not allow ourselves leave the home without looking our best.
The basic wardrobe of a stylish woman should be a three-quarter-sleeve coat, full belted skirt, button-down, and prim sweater. These items of clothing allow comfortable access to automobiles. We have to acknowledge that even women of leisure do things sometimes and need clothing for getting places, looking attractive, and living in the world. Ironically, being skinny is a direct recipe for being pitied. Skinny women are hopeless in romantic pursuits, and their only hope to attract a suitor is to gain weight. You certainly don’t want to be associated with such things as thigh gaps or “thinspiration” in this era. The most desirable body for men is the one that hangs on his wall: a pin-up girl. Although we all know that pin-up girl photographs are almost illustrations that are highly retouched and stylized — the male artist would elongate legs, tuck in the waist, plump up breasts creating an unreal, unattainable human form, we need to get as close to that as possible and keep in mind that the price of success is hard work (remember Gibson Girls?). The life example we all watch closely is a busty, voluptuous hourglass figure of Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. The hair should be in soft, curly or wavy if you want to be noticed by a decent man. Last but not least is flawless skin of peachy and cream complexion. After WWII, technology started changing the way beauty is perceived: bathrooms with electric lights and mirrors highlight concerns about acne and formerly overlooked details.
Grace Kelly by Mark Shaw, 1954. and Marilyn Monroe by Alfred Eisenstaedt, 1953
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context The increasing popularity of Hollywood films helped propel glamour
1950s
models like Marilyn Monroe to widespread public consciousness and combined with the increased freedom of material after the end of wartime rationing. The new “bullet bra” became popular among women who had been deprived of the good fabrics for so long and were looking for clothing that accentuated the female silhouette.
High powered fashion by William Klein who turned models loose in the dense traffic of the big city. They were photographed from a distance with a very long lense. Dior’s Spring 1952 collection catches the eye right away with the waist.
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Veruschka by Richard Avedon, 1967
Pierre Cardin, 1967
PVC mackintosh by Mary Quant, 1963
The 1960s Trend that Killed Pin-Up Girls
P
in-up girls embodied by Marilyn Monroe in the previous decade had a very long moment in the sun. Fast-forward to 1960s there’s one notable new style vying for attention. Curves aren’t as important as being rail-thin and elegantly fashionable, like the tiny models with big eyes Twiggy and Veruschka. After the war, the birth rate has increased and now the young and beautiful segment is the most important in the market. For this new influential class elegance and fashion has different parameters. Jeans, T-shirts and the recently born miniskirt substitute stiffer garments. Set rules are dropped and stylish girls shift attention to ready-to-wear clothing of cheaper youthful apparel. As a young person of our time, you should be rebellious against all expression of authority and make music your solo credo, erasing even differences of class, race, and gender. The beautiful girl broadcasts sexuality and liberated image, oriented towards self-realization. Everything about you should become extreme, exaggerated, extravagant and exotic. The uniform of the young girls is based on a view of life as entertainment, translated into miniskirts, short vinyl raincoats and tight-knit pullovers. Hippies are favoring long no-maintenance hairstyles and typically avoid makeup. More modern ’60s girls, conversely, opt for short pixie cuts and dramatic eyes. Fake eyelashes are a must-have, and mascara should be applied to achieve the popular tarantula lashes. The face has to look painted. The most stylish haircut is geometric, wedgeshaped, cut long at the side and ending in a sharp point at the chin.
Pierre Cardin, 1968
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T
he clothing is an expression of the roles and interests. The quest for deeper meaning led to the hippie movement and “flower power”. Although we admire the hippies’ eagerness
for peace and love for nature, and a notion of sexual freedom they brought up, a smart woman should avoid looking like one. While hip-
1960s context
pies put more of an emphasis on causal staples like bell-bottoms,
Two polar opposites emerged: the hippie flower
tunics, and platform shoes, the super-mod girls put time into their
child with an emphasis on casual staples land
appearance and have to master things like high boots, miniskirts, and
the modern swinging ’60s woman who put time
short shift dresses. Leather and ethnic prints can be adapted from
into their appearance and favored things that
hippies as a symbol of a return to nature.
emphasized the specific features of their bodies.
The 1960s were a unique decade with a retreat from haute couture and
Women moved to the parts hitherto unexposed.
the rise of radical rapture prevailing with tastes and trends, in which
The miniskirt was first born in 1965 by art stu-
youth was a symbol, driving force, and a source of inspiration. Models
dents in Manchester. Edie Sedgwick was one of
played gauche, boutiques mixed genders, and unisex made an entrance.
pioneers of the mini skirt.
Second-Hand clothes once associated with charity and poverty were chic and electric. The new Youth Fashion Phenomenon flourished. Thanks to Yuri Gagarin and Neil Armstrong the Space Age style appeared. If you are ready for the most extravagant look of the decade opt for dresses and accessories that resemble astronauts’ space suits. Clothes should be made from every conceivable material all cut along baby doll lines. The obvious hairpieces and outrages eyelashes are must-have, as long as your hair is cut at obtuse angles.
Kean Simpson, the world’s highest paid model by 1965, caused a sensation and kick-started fashion revolution in Australia when appeared in a mini-dress without a hat,
Audrey Hepburn, 1954
gloves or stockings at Derby Day.
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School girls in unisex style, 1970
Pieces Your Work Wardrobe Needs for the Ann Turkel for Cosmopolitan, c.1970
70s IF
your work wardrobe is small and
uninspired, designers are here to
help. Just like our weekend wear,
we want something to feel good to wear and something expressed to us.
The appropriate work wardrobe should still be elegant, but give way to ease and practicality. Clothes have to carry you from work to cocktail to dinner and home. Hence it should be sexy and disco-ready. The best choices would be lots of wrap-style dresses, jeans supplemented by oversized sunglasses. As we get a little bit tired of sportswear and Chanel suits, the new alternative was introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1967: pantsuits. Women no longer have to dress for the man but for themselves. Just like that, pantsuits as the masculine icon par excel and perhaps the best symbol of the strides being made by women becomes a center of the fashion scene.
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1970s
context Nationwide economic recession put an end to the overall Post–World War II economic expansion. Women were entering the workforce first time in record numbers. The new figure of female executive appeared, who struggled and climbed just as men did for top positions. Work then became an activity for women. Photographers were trying to capture models’ unawareness while working, driving, window shopping, or out for a stroll with friends to show practical items of everyday clothing without depriving then from fantasy and glamor. The sessions took place on the streets, and takes of models in motion to archive a “surprise effect”. Twiggy-like thin ideal began to have a wide-
although they used potentially dangerous amphetamines to suppress the appetite.
MODEL CASTING CALL
ments of the model to show the full potential of the clothing.
mainstream coverage. Diet pills became popular
seaming casual and spontaneous, capturing the right move-
habits. Anorexia nervosa first began to receive
Lisa Taylor by Elgort, 1976. Elgort produced images that are
spread impact on women’s health and eating
A vibrant girl, brimming with extra stamina,
The skin has to be clean demonstrating the
energy, and health for life.
high of health.
Should be attractive with strongly expressive
Has to have a bronzed beach look, and will
faces. Should appear intelligent interested in
be required to use a tanning booth, bronzers,
art, health but still sensual.
and self-tanners.
Has to have big blue eyes, feathery shiny
Will be posing in real-life situations, putting
blond hair, tiny noses and big white teeth,
her makeup or combing her hair or striding
and strong body.
out confidently, in their everyday settings.
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Anne Klein at Toronto Life Fashion, 1987
context A boom era for designers, who marketed and promoted themselves as celebrities of their own. Fashion shows became highly theatrical events that helped turn the designers into household names and propelled models into a position of Hollywood film stars. A new class of yuppies rose out of corporate men and women defined by work, money, and conspicuous consumption. The prevalence of eating disorders skyrocketed Sarah Jessica Parker, 1986
1980s 24
throughout the decade. An international clothing retailer, the Benetton Group, combined fashion and politics in their campaigns. To market multiculturalism, the company attired models of different ethnic backgrounds in its clothing.
MODEL CASTING CALL
A girl of great height with a thin and toned body, without being too muscular. A constant following of aerobic exercise shows and videotapes will be required. The hairdo should be big, heavy use of hairspray is required. The make-up should be bright with frequent use of blue eye shadows and linens, and shiny pink pouts. The eyebrows have to be kept bushy. Has to look good in headbands, tights, leggings, leg warmers, and short skirts of neon spandex and suits with shoulder pads.
Norma Kamali, 1981
Princess Diana at the Vancouver Expo, 1986, and at the National Gallery of Art, Washington, 1985
UTTER BEAUTY Nineteen-year-old
Lady
Diana
Spencer became a new fiancee of the Prince Of Wales in 1981. The engagement turn Lady Diana into a public figure. Princes Diana of Wales combined youth, style, and royalty in a way that grew global fascination. She applied her signature style that consists of short cropped blonde hair, tanned skin and simple makeup, to every occasion. She was one of the most photographed woman in the world and thus she ensured success of any designer she worn form the moment of her engagement.
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Jennifer Aniston and Courteney Cox, 1994
Kate Moss in Tom Ford for Gucci, 1998
T
he new decade is in full swing, and it has more to do with the expression of a personal style than the old fashioned way to dress like a lady. Now we see a wider range of styles to
choose from, and an understanding that fashion is a way to signalize who you are, on a deeper level. The new approach opens the door for us to a more relaxed and playful form of beauty and a new type of woman we can create ourselves. The style professionals predict that the new decade will feature many
Extremely Edited List of Must-Haves Trends that are Huge in the
styles never publicly accepted before, and add a new twist to the idea of beauty. The modern woman like us has a job and, although the suit is a good match, we want something other than a suit to go to work every day,
90s something more comfortable, practical, and individual. Casual chic look is a great alternative. T-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and trainers are going to be a perfect compromise for your work wardrobe for several seasons.
For the off-work hours opt for slip dresses and paired them with big hair, jean jackets, Keds, and ankle socks. For more ideas look for streetwear
looks: match clothing, silly hats, platform shoes are promised to be big.
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Unusual concepts and requests for photographs became popular bringing
1990s
freshness, power, and uniqueness to the image that no one else can archive. The prevalence of obesity sharply increased and the World Health Organiza-
Partic Demancheleer, 1991
s
context
tion began sounding the alarm about the growing global obesity epidemic. As images of obesity flashed across media screens as a part of public health outreach efforts, in contrast so did images of skinny models. Movie stars become idols and establish ultimate feminine ideals. People began boycotting brands and a decline of interest to couture followed.
Julia Roberts and Laura San Giacomo in Pretty Woman, 1990
MODEL CASTING CALL
A “heroin chic” girl of thin and bony appear-
should be full with a deep red lipstick or
ance or a slim fit of the classic hourglass body
frosted with a pencil outline, makeup should
with an emphasis on the breast.
be minimal.
The hairstyles should be done in one of the
Body glitter, bedazzling, tattoos, and piercing
following styles: the Rachel cut, named for
are welcomed and recommended.
Jennifer Aniston’s character on “Friends”, the bob, bangs, and bleach blond color The skin should appear matte and flawless, eyebrows defined or super thin, noses very narrow and small, “sucked in” cheeks, lips
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How to wear
2000s
MAJOR TRENDS
T
he must-have of the modern stylish
go perfectly with any stylish outfits of yours.
curvy-skinny. The body should appear firm,
girl is going to be jeans or pants with
Consider cargo pants and wide leg jeans if you
chesty or just plain super slender with a good
a very skinny tight silhouette and low
feel like skinny jeans are too tight today.
tan for the look to be ideal.
be paired with crop-top, tank tops, or tube tops
The most go-to outfits of every star today
To make your look more 2000’s and sexy think
and with big platform shoes. The ultimate look
is capri pants and tunic worn with wide or
about your hair and makeup. Natural hair-col-
should also include thong underwear showing
thin belts and velour tracksuits. The tracksuits
ors are no longer cool, and the most stylish
off under your pants, in over words, close fit-
are found worn in every color with another
choices would be blond, dark brown/black,
ting and revealing as much as possible.
huge trend brought to us by Australian brand
and a range of red to purple. To spice up the
UGGs: a fuzzy pair of boots.
hair even further go for highlights, lowlights,
waist. Yoga pants, leggings, skinny jeans should
For those days when you are tired of high
wavy and layered hairstyles.
heels and skinny jeans, we have alternatives.
Of course, to be able to wear any of this
Ballet flats, Converse Chucks or the Ked will
your silhouette should be very slender to
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Britney Spears by David LaChapelle, 2002
2000s context At the transition to the twenty-first-century convergence of photographic genres strengthen. The relationship of photography to other art mediums expended. The greatest engine of change was a pixel, which made photography instantly available via computer and smartphones. A rise in the consumption of fast fashion: affordable off-the-peg high street clothing based on the latest high fashion designs became a significant factor in the fashion industry’s growth. Affordable clothing made brands adapt to the market to keep up with their consumer’s new spending habits. The TV show “Sex and the City” impacted how women cared about fashion and how they shopped. The show depicted women as empowered consumers, each with their own independent styles that shopped based on what they wanted, not what they were told to wear.
Angelina Jolie by David LaChapelle, 2001
Sarah Jessica Parker and Kim Cattrall in Sex and the City, 2000
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THE ONLY STYLE ADVICE
You Need to Survive this Decade in Chic
30
WE
’re celebrating a re-emergence of almost
MODEL CASTING CALL A girl with generous breasts, tiny waist, big booty and a thigh gap all at the same time.
every major fashion trend of decades past, from shoulder pads to cinched waists.
The face should be naturally beautiful with
Looking through the decades for inspiration, the style-savvy know
pouty lips. Makeup has to only emphasize
that current trends are all focused on retro classics with a modern
fresh, dewy skin. Hair has to be healthy from
touch of technological development in fabric production.
long to chic pixie cuts.
context Digital means allowed professionals and amateur photographers to
2010s
make and edit their work more easily, as well as transmitting, storing, and commenting on images. The spread of social media brings a diversity of represented body types
Women all over the world are tired of glorifying impossible female figures
by everyday users online. At the same time, it brings negative body
are pushing back. The body-positive movement aims to overturn these
image to girls as they stress about how they look in posted photos.
standards and represent bodies of all shapes and sizes in the media.
Chanel Fall 2019 Ready-ToWear Collection Louis Vuitton Series 8 Campaign by Bruce Weber, 2017 Chriselle Lim at Paris Fashion Week, 2017
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Twelve beauties by Irving Penn, 1947
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Is the Body Positive Movement
A SCAM? T
he taste and demands of each era impose a fictional ideal in feminine beauty. The parameters of one person set unattainable rules for the ma-
jority through magazines, fashion industry, advertisement, and social media. Women undergo diets, eating disorders, heavy exercise, use of harmful beauty products, and dangerous surgeries to try to achieve a photoshopped beauty. Through decades, the standard varied from undernourished girls to voluptuous women. The rules kept changing but they never disappeared. It seems like today the awareness about absurd and comic nature of beauty ideals are rising, but new rules still appear. Girls all over the world still hate their bodies, because they can not fit in to the ideal sample-size. These different ways of showing ideal female beauty found a vehicle in models. Over the years they perpetuated the women’s fantasy of seeing themselves and being seen as attractive. The first live mannequins were wives of the designers, who wore their husbands’ creations to show them to clients. Next came society ladies who were photographed in their own dresses, and then actresses who posed in studios. In 1920s, modeling began to take hold when photographers were increasingly employing young women with perfect bodies who impeccably wore the creation of the fashion designers. Since 1950s, modeling school and agencies proliferated. The profession became economically attractive and eventually the ultimate dream of every generation of young women1.
1 Angeletti, Norberto, and Alberto Oliva. In Vogue: The Illustrated History of the World’s Most Famous Fashion Magazine. New York: Rizzoli, 2012, p.116.
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Recently, some big brands and magazines made small but bold steps towards democratisation of fashion. In 2015, Robyn Lawley was the first plus-size model featured in Sports Illustrated’s swimsuit issue. In 2016, fashion designer Christian Siriano featured five plus-size models in his show during New York Fashion Week. That same year, toy manufacturing company Mattel debuted a line of Barbie dolls depicting diverse body types, including curvy shapes.
IN
In 2017 big fashion reality show Project Runway, included models ranging from size
1960s, activists held an event at New York’s Central Park,
0 to 22 for the first time in its history5. Unfortunately, these trends
dubbed it a “Fat-In” and ate ice cream while burning
are rare, so they still “feel fresh and innovative” and mostly these
posters of the thin model Twiggy. Later this group cre-
companies’ movements aim to attract more customers and viewers.
ated an organization called National Association to Advance Fat Ac-
What brands and individuals alike are less enthusiastic to talk about is
ceptance (NAAFA) . The organization still promotes awareness related
how having a noncompliant body — whether it’s fat, nonwhite, trans,
to fat issues like face stigma and discrimination when it comes to
disabled, or some combination thereof — impacts someone’s life, how
employment, health care and education .
those external conditions affect someone’s sense of self-worth, and
2
3
how corporate interests have long benefited from and upheld the In 2004, the global producer of body and hair products Dove found
structural forces that create inequality6.
that only 2 percent of women globally consider themselves beautiful. Dove made it their mission to raise that number by showcasing real
The problem with today’s vision of body positivity campaigns is that
women in their ads instead of size zero models who have been air-
it fails to recognise that loving yourself and desiring to change your-
brushed to perfection. Dove’s beauty campaign celebrates the beauty
self are two sentiments that should be able to peacefully coexist in
in women all of shapes, sizes and ethnicities and inspires everyone to
everybody’s mind7. Seeing different bodies on social media definitely
be comfortable in their own skin. They put out several videos to in-
helps improve women self-image and confidence but health issues
form girls that they are beautiful no matter what they look like. After
linked to overweight and obesity are still real. So far, we live in the
Dove launched their monumental campaign, it inspired several other
opposite extremes: picture-perfect body and “do-not-try-to-change-
brands to empower women as well. Always created a campaign called
yourself”. Another aspect of the problem is that people are genuinely
#LikeaGirl which teaches young girls that “like a girl” is not a bad thing.
sick of being pushed to feel bad about themselves all the time. They
Pantene’s #NotSorry video tells women to stop over apologizing for
probably don’t want to be cut off the picture, denied job opportunities
things that they shouldn’t even be sorry for. All of these brands were
or refused lifesaving medical care because of what they look like. What
trying to encourage and empower women and gave birth to the body
we don’t want to talk about is that the problem is way bigger and put-
positive movement .
ting the models of different sizes on posters is not the final solution.
2 Fletcher, Dan. “The Fat-Acceptance Movement.” Time. July 31, 2009. Accessed April 02,
5 Howard, Jacqueline. “The Ever-changing ‘ideal’ of Female Beauty.” CNN. March 09, 2018.
2019. http://content.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,1913858,00.html.
Accessed March 23, 2019. https://www.cnn.com/2018/03/07/health/body-image-histo-
3 Puhl, Rebecca M., and Chelsea A. Heuer. “The Stigma of Obesity: A Review and Update.”
ry-of-beauty-explainer-intl/index.html
Obesity. September 06, 2012. Accessed April 09, 2019. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/
6 Mull, Amanda. “Body Positivity Is a Scam.” Vox. June 05, 2018. Accessed April 02, 2019.
full/10.1038/oby.2008.636.
https://www.vox.com/2018/6/5/17236212/body-positivity-scam-dove-campaign-ads.
4 “Why Dove’s Real Beauty Campaign Is The Best Thing On TV.” The Odyssey Online. August
7 DeVos, Kelly. “The Problem With Body Positivity”. The New York Times. May 29, 2018. Ac-
27, 2017. Accessed March 26, 2019. https://www.theodysseyonline.com/doves-real-beauty-
cessed April 02,2019. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/29/opinion/weight-loss-body-pos-
campaign-tv.
itivity.html
4
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In 2015 Protein World launched contriversial campain for their weight loss product in London. The billboard caused an outreach and promoted allegation of “body-shaming� from activist. Campanies like Dove, Navabi (Longon clothing retailer), the nline campaign Perfect World Zero Pressure followed with the response . Each created their own posters feauturing people of different sizes with the message that every body is beautiful.
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