Y/Proyect by Maria Gracia Gutierrez

F E B R U A R Y, 2 0 1 8

Y/PROJECT S T R AT E G I C B R A N D I N G & I N N O V AT I O N M A N A G E M E N T R E P O R T

M A FAS H I O N P R OMO TION , C OM M UNICATION AND M EDIA ST R AT E G I C BR A N D IN G A N D IN NOVATION M ANAGEM ENT EL E M E N T 1 , C A S E S T U D Y A N A LYSIS

M a ri a G ra c i a Gu tie rre z Mo ra le s 040395

21/02/2018 2 . 1 9 8 wo r d s

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY The report aims to identify and solve the issues of the communication plan of the emerging brand Y/Project. Through both primary and secondary research the strategies to restructure the brand message were established, both global and specific recommendations were proposed to increase the brand awareness and to enhance a new concept of luxury in the target mind. Concepts for both the identity of the brand and the project were elaborated to create a manual of style for communication in both offline and online media, that include the personification, language and the creation of an appropriate tunnel voice for the brand. As well as enriching collaborations and involvement with other artist to help Y/Project to keep in the spotlight beyond the trends.

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TABLE OF CONTENT

Introduction Objectives Research Methodology

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Brand Audit

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Business External and Internal Environment Audit Pestel Analysis SWOT Analysis

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Conclusion

Recommendations

Brand Identity Brand Image Brand Elements Brand Positioning Digital Presence Competitors Analysis

Brand strategy Brand extension DNAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand concept Materials Eclecticism Estimated budget Creative Fashion concept Monitor and control Cadavre Exquis Moonboard Planning Promotional tools

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Appendix

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Target Audience Consumer Profile Customer Based Brand Equity Product Portfolio Promotional Mix

References Bibliography Iconography

TABLE OF FIGURES Figure 1. Pestel Matrix Figure 2. Porterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Five Forces Matrix Figure 3. SWOT Matrix Figure 4. Kapferer Matrix Figure 5. Perceptual Map Figure 6. POD - POP Matrix Figure 7. Pen Portrait Actual Costumer Figure 8. Promotion and Innovation Analysis Figure 9. Digital Presence Competitors Analysis Figure 10. CBBE Model Figure 11. Brand Portfolio

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INTRODUCTION THE AIM OF THE PROJEC T IS TO IDENTIF Y ISSUES WITHIN THE BR ANDING IN THE C O N T E X T O F C O M M U N I C AT I O N A N D O F F E R I N A C R E AT I V E WAY S H O R T A N D L O N G T E R M R E C O M M E N D AT I O N S F O R C H A N G E .

OBJECTIVES OF THE REPORT -STRENGTHEN THE IDENTIT Y AND IMAGE OF THE BR AND. - S T U D Y A N D A N A LY Z E T H E B U S I N E S S E N V I R O N M E N T O F Y/ P R O J E C T . - F I N D A C O N C E P T W H I C H E N C A P S U L A T E S T H E D N A O F Y/ P R O J E C T . - D E V E L O P A C R E A T I V E F A S H I O N C O N C E P T F O R T H E C O M M U N I C A T I O N S T R A T E G Y. - P R O D U C E A L I N E O F C O N T E N T T H AT R E I N F O R C E S T H E L I N K B E T W E E N T H E B R A N D A N D I T S TA R G E T A U D I E N C E , A L L O W I N G P E O P L E T O I N T E R A C T W I T H T H E P R O D U C T A N D S H O W THE LINE.

Y/PROJEC T Y/project was founded in 2011 by Gilles Elalouf and Yohan Serfaty, who was the original Creative Director (Y of Y/PROJECT). This second, unfortunately passed away in 2013 and Glenn Martens was called to carrying on with the spirit of the label, since he had already worked as the first assistant of Yohan, back in 2009. Y/project was originally and exclusively men’s wear brand, with very dark designs and mostly focused into tailoring, but with the change of director, the brand had to pass through a process of adaptation in 2013. Glenn is from Bruges and he was graduated as an Interior Architect at the age of 21. As described for his commercial director this makes him have several and continuous references to art and construction. He dedicated to create a new aesthetic of the line that started to change the shapes, volumes and silhouettes, using historical and classical references that were later on mixed with street wear and after more with tailoring, being playful, adding humour with a modern construction. With very intellectual and elaborated clothes, the brand has up-to-date 14 seasons designed, including men’s wear collection which is a unisex line, that has ready to wear and accessories and the women line, that has ready to wear, accessories and shoes. In 2017, Y/Project wins the ANDAM award, which put them into the spotlight and launched the popularity of the brand. According to the commercial director the main thing to capture about the brand is individuality and adaptation, the clothes are design to be unique designs, most of them are designed to be adaptable, they change to be the design of the client so they can be worn in many different ways, so it’s about the clothes engaging with the customer. R E SEARC H M ETHODOL O GY The Primary Research was conducted in different forms such as store visit and interview with clients at the section corresponding to the brand, located in Galleries LaFayette, elaboration of one focus group (Appendix 1) composed by possible costumers of the brand and people associated with the fashion industry. An online survey (Appendix 2) was designed to obtain quantitative research to gather information about image of the brand as well as brand awareness and type of consumers; furthermore a survey (Appendix 3) was also produced with a general audience of potential costumers to deepen into the brand image and general awareness. The Instagram account was analyzed to understand the brand actual communication plan. Additionally direct and email interviews were conducted with Glenn Martens (Appendix 4) and Rodrigo the commercial director for further study of the brand codes. Secondary Research was conducted through reading of books, academic and commercial articles and consumer and market reports. Eclecticism both as an architectural and art related concept were studied to make links with the brand identity.

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SECTION 01

BUSINESS EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL ENVIRONMENT AUDIT P E S T L E A N A LY S I S

Figure 1. Pestel Analysis

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S W O T A N A LY S I S

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

OPPORTUNITIES

T H R E AT S

Figure 2. SWOT Analysis

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Integrated sales department Atelier Innovative products Style Selective brand Brand image

Low brand awareness Relatively new in the market Emerging brand label Selective brand Underuse of social networks Lack of consistency in online presence Communication messages

Filtering the market Re-branding Brand extension Co- branding Co- Artisting Innovative Selected audience Style

Varied market Positioning between specific brands No specific voice/face in communication Under use of social networks Lack of online consistency

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BRAND AUDIT BR AND FOCUSED O F

S E N D E R

I N T E R N A L I S A T I O N

E X T E R N A L I S A T I O N

P I C T U R E

O F

R E C I P I E N T

Figure 3. Kapferer Analysis

B R A N D I M A G E - L O YA LT Y/ A W A R E N E S S Q U E S T I O N N A I R E

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BR AND ELEMENTS

Logo

Name Y/Project Personality Diverse, Unique, Fun, Courageous Culture Cultivated, Smart, Detail oriented, High quality, Individuality, Adaptability Inspiration Art, Architecture, Poetry, Music Color White / Dark High contrast

Figure 4. Brand Analysis

“THERE’S NO RULE , IT JUST H A P P E N S , W E D O W H AT W E WA NT A N D TRY TO FI N D SOME BALANCE IN BETWEEN THE EXTREMES” G. MARTENS

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BR AND POSITIONING

PERCEPT UAL MAP

LUXURY

Conceptual design Makes reference to the utilisation of concepts that might come from other fields such as art or any other that works as an inspiration for the creation of the garment. *Comme de Garรงons exclusive fashion runway line.

COMMERCIAL DESIGN

CONCEPTUAL DESIGN

Figure 5. Perceptual Map

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PREMIUM

Larger brand extension Stong online presence High rate of engament Concept stores

Adaptable of the clothes In house atelier Unisex line Young brand

POP Conceptual design Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear International market Haute couture Social media presence Multichannel sales

Figure 6. POP Point of parity

Innovation Use of story telling film collaboration Show presentations Not menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear Performance -art Limited commercial line

Mature brand Heritage Larger brand extension Key product perfums International stores Pop up stores

POD Point of difference

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CONSUMER FOCUSED

TA RG ET AUDIENCE CONSUM E R PROF ILE

Figure 7. Pen Portrait

P RO M OT I O NAL MIX

Regular advertising No call to action on internet marketing Website in maintenance No incentives of participation Good development of PR office Personal selling needs improvement No sales associate

B R A N D I N N OVAT IVE S T R AT EGY Figure 8. Promotion and innovation Analysis

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Standard use of the social media and website Well implemented No call to action or participation

DIG ITAL PR ES ENCE CO M PE TITO RS ANALYSIS

The closest competitors have online presence, first of all the company website with basic information about the brand, the most recent campaign and all the links to the social networks as videos or motions of collaborations done. A code of color is implemented in their websites with high contrasts where the logo is also a focal point of view. In the page is also possible to find the link to the online shopping area.

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In relation to instagram, a code of color is also used for each brand to create a similitude of speech, a large display of content is posted regularly about the run way, collections, information of the brand and deeper information about backstage, important days, trends and personal background of the brands are include in the grid displaying a wide range of content. The call to action strategy is implemented in both instagram and website.

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CUS TOMER BA SE D BRA ND EQUITY

L ow level o f loyalty L ack o f affi li ati o n wi th users L ow rate o f engagement wi th fo llowers

Pri de Freedo m Expressi o n O utstandi ng

Em e rgi ng New Ur b an Ec c e n t r ic

Uni sex So phi sti cate d C raftmans h ip Adaptable

Uni q ue Int r i gu i ng Alt e rna t i ve C a s u al

SALIENCE

Kn own as Emergi ng brand Low awareness as luxury brand

Figure 10. CBBE Model

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P RO D U C T PORT FOLIO Figure 11. Product Portfolio

Ready to wear

Accesories

Women

Men

Scarfs

Skirt

Pants

Jewerly

Dress

Jackets

Leather goods

Pants

Sweaters

T-shirts

Sweaters

Shoes

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Belts

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CONCLUSIONS Y/ P R O J E C T N E E D S T O F O R T I F Y T H E I R I M A G E A N D V A L U E S , A S I T M A N A G E S NEW TOOLS OF INTER ACTIONS WITH ITS AUDIENCE . T H E B R A N D R E Q U I R E S T H E I M P L E M E N TAT I O N O F I N N O VAT I V E S T R AT E G I E S I N I T S C O M M U N I C AT I O N P L A N T O A C C O M P L I S H T H E I M A G E O F A L U X U R Y B R A N D W I T H O U T L O S I N G I T S I D E N T I T Y.

The improvent of their online presence might allow the brand to gain more visibility therefore awareness because their actual levels of engament and interaction are low. As the brand is already associated with some celebreties, the application of new and enriching collaborations and involvement with other artist could help Y/Project to keep in the spotlight beyond the trends.

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RECOMMENDATIONS B R A N D S T R AT E G Y

The principal aspect that must be reinforced is the brand identity to increase brand awareness. In order to achieve this goal, based in a BTC model, several strategies must be applied, initiating with the development of a manual of style for communication in both offline and online media, in this manual the personification, language and the creation of an appropriate tunnel voice are key factors for the efficient application of the detailed strategies. The social media content and online presence should be expanded into a more rich and personal experience that allows to create an emotional bond between the followers and the brand. The conception of a capsule collection would increase the perception of the brand as luxury member, as the design of a brand extension will improve the already positive points that the brand has in his image. The process of customization will affect the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception where the experience will grant him the role of creator and will eventually turn him in prosumer. Co-artist and collaborations will potentially increase the visibility of the brand through the online media.

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B R A N D R E C O M M E N D AT I O N E X E C U T I O N

DNA’s BRAND CONCEPT Eclecticism Extracted from the interview done to Glenn Martens and commonly mentioned in several articles always making reference to the brand’s identity, eclecticism, was selected as the key word concept for this new strategy as it matches all the brand character and values. According to the Internet Encyclopedia of Philosophy (no date) the eclecticism is the name that was assigned, in the world of philosophy, to those ancient professionals, who didn’t agreed that there was an exclusive doctrine and were dedicated to select the theories that seem the most reasonable and out of them create a new structure of beliefs. In architecture makes reference to the compositions of different elements than were drawn of several sources, given rise to a heterogeneous construction, same concept is applied to art executed under various doctrines, methods or using many styles, the main objective of this code was to create something new and original. This concept resume all the personality and qualities that are expected to be perceived for the audience, it compiles different subjects and keeps the same process of conception already establish by Glenn Martens where, according to the commercial director, constantly refers to external topics such as architecture and art. Bottom Indulgy.com (no date) Eclecticism [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http:// indulgy.com/ post/1PJmAbrmC1/ art#/search/art%20 grouping/page/2

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CREATIVE FASHION CONCEPT Cadavre exquis (Exquisite Corpse) A surreal artistic reference was chosen to execute a group of specific recommendations for Y/ Project, the Cadavre exquis, mix fun, creativity, art and an absurd part in its creation process. As explained by the MoMa (no date) in its learning section the Exquisite Corpse or Cadavre Exquis as it is original named, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a surrealist game designed by the artists of the movement, typically involving four players. Each participant would draw something on a sheet, fold the paper to keep hided his piece and pass it to the next player so he could do his collaboration and so on. The result is usually an intriguing mixed of figures such as the famous Nude by Yves Tanguy, Joan MirĂł, Max Morise, and Man Ray. For the exponents of the movement, it was a perfect game that constantly involved group collaboration and elements such as un-predictability while playing with the mind and awaking new perceptions of reality through disorder.

Left Tanguy, Y. and others (1925) Nude [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www. monalyz.fr/5.html

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MOONBOARD

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Phase 2 Initiates with the creation and design of digital interventions for the presentation of the collection, this content will be displayed through Y/project’s website and social media in from of film teaser and ads showing pieces of this new concept, presenting first drafts of the exquisite corpse. The main objective is to develop a mystery campaign 20 days before the event of the presentation takes place. Phase 3 Through an unpremeditated selection of 20 participants from the Y/Project luxury data base located in Paris, will receive invitations in from of VR lens with special packaging and a QR code that will be used as an entrance to the formal event where the capsule collection will be introduced, the guesses will have the opportunity to take one person as companion to the celebration. In the lens they’ll be able to see the teaser presentation and an extra proposition to be part of the design in the new Y/Project’s brand extension. Phase 4 After the production of virtual content, data base of models and standard options for the conception of the avatar, along with the virtual form of the capsule collection, the content will be uploaded to a special section of the brand’s website.

PLANNING

Phase 1 The Y/Project Exquisite Corpse starts with the design of a Spring Summer Capsule collection by Glenn Martens, which will be an exclusive and limited collection of Y/Project created to impulse the perception of luxury of the brand.

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The guess designer will have to create his model and to choose between a collaborative experience or an adaptive experience, will later decide the styling of the model that will wear the pieces of the capsule collection designed by Glenn Martens and start the selection of parameters and design of the new product. All the bases and characteristics of the brand extension will be established by Y/Project and the guess designer is meant to arrange these characteristics to his taste.

Once the process is finished, the guess designer has the opportunity to share the results in social media and will be automatically upload to the website. If collaboration method is chosen the option of Y/Project in co. with Myname will be displayed or Y/Project by Myname is the adaptive option is selected. In the website people can vote for the most attractive collection and buy the pieces they love as well as pick a cosmetic customization, like embossing any of the products or choosing it as a gift for a loved one. All the items will be made on order to avoid extra expenses or any loss of material, this way the brand increase their sustainability actions in the technological era. Phase 5 The event will take place in Paris, the 31st October and will be at the Universal Museum of art. A certain amount of tickets will be sold in the museum with the particularity that, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the concept of the museum, the visitor will access the event through the computer, tablet and smartphone or through VR lens. The most voted collections could be display in the museum as an itinerant performance of a virtual runway and the creator can receive prizes such as invitations to the next Y/Projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s runway or private visits to the private Atelier or meetings with the staff. The presentation of these performances will also be displayed in the website and social networks of the brand as well as part of collaboration with some other museums such as the Museum of Modern Art or the Centre George Pompidou. Phase 6 The Y/Project Exquisite Corpse can travel around the world and the audience can submit in the website section of the campaign the suggestions for the cities where it should go.

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Bottom, Top left Nelson, J. (2013) Series â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Psychedelic Fursâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https:// thelibertineezine. com/2013/08/25/ psychedelic-fursgeorgiana-saraevby-jamie-nelsonsummer-2013/

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PROMOTIONAL TOOLS

Ambassadors: First Computer Generated Influencer @lilmiquela Male counterpart streetwear-enthusiast @blawko22 Fashionography: Jamie Nelson

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BRAND EXTENSION The brand extension will be oriented through the carried accessories providing a range of accessories, where we’ll find: hand bags, bag packs, clutches and tote bags. The materials proposed are all related to fashion innovation and new technologies. CETI –European Center for Innovative Textiles. Industrial processes with a close observation of new uses and new expectations on the part of the final consumers. DE RIGUEUR LAB. Fashion Tech Accessories for brands. Available a range of leather accessories able to charge a smartphone with or without wire. EUVEKA. Connected and endlessly adjustable mannequin that can recreate 80% of the currently morphologies of women. CRY BY JRC REFLEX. Reflective yarn with conductivity performances.

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APPENDIX 1 FOCUS GROUP

Questions: How would you define Y/ Project? Why? What words (3) would you associate with the brand? Why do you buy Y/Project? On which occasions do/would you wear Y/Project and why? Which mood? Do you associate a memory with one of your Y/Project pieces? If yes, what is it and why? What pieces attracts you most and why? Where do you buy Y/Projects and why? What would expect Y/Project store? Where do you usually shop offline/online? Why? What do you expect from a store? What don’t you like? What would your dream store/ retail space look like? Tell me the last time you bought clothes in a store? Tell me a time when you had a really good customer experience in store. Why? Tell me a time when you had a really bad customer experience in store. Why? Tell me a time when you were very pleased and impressed with the design of a store. Why? Tell me a time when you thought a store was very poorly designed. Why? FOCUS GROUP ANSWERS Divya How did you learn about Y/ Project? Not sure exactly how, but I’m likely to have come across it on social media.

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If you did not know the brand before this, what is your first impression of it (check vogue runway and their instagram page, Tumblr, farfetch) --- NA since I knew about the brand before this

Have you ever bought a product from them? No. If yes, from where and how often? NA

What do you think of the prices? You can check them on farfetch.com Some pieces are really overpriced. Do you view the Y/Project as a luxury brand? Why? Yes, because of their brand positioning, current cult status, and luxury pricing. What is it that you consider luxury? The entire definition of luxury has changed for me since the athleisure movement began. Even traditionally luxurious brands like Gucci are sending athleisure down the runway. To me, luxury now means what is novel, like brand collaborations that produce a limited amount of pieces, or a coveted shoe on social media which isn’t easily available to everyone. Which other brands can you associate with Y/Project? Off-White maybe? Balenciaga in some ways. Definitely Vetements. Describe the Y/Project in one word. What do you think about the brand (likes/dislikes)? Why? I like that the brand is not trying to be what it’s not, but at the same time, what I don’t like is the luxury pricing for some of the pieces. What can be improved in your opinion? Not certain if I’m qualified to answer this.

If not, will you consider buying clothes from Y/Project? Why / Why not ? Yes I will! According to you, which segment of people are they targeting? Give Reasons. Definitely millennials, but wealthy millennials. Do you think the brand has a niche? If yes, why do you think so? Yes it does! Describe the way you want your customer experience to be at a luxury store/e-store? E- store, I pretty much like shopping on Matchesfashion/ mytheresa. And luxury store, I quite liked Gucci. Do you think Good/Bad design space matters? Yes! Do you think celebrities like Rihanna are in line with the brand? Name other celebrities you can associate with the brand. Maybe Kendall Jenner? What is your occupation? Fashion Stylist and Writer at ELLE India Which genre of movies do you prefer? Light comedies Which genre of music do you prefer?

chic

Anything top 50! Which social media platform are you most active on? Instagram Do you trust Influencers’ opinions? Sometimes

Bloggers/

What type of content do you enjoy related to fashion? Everything! Fashion features usually. My favourite piece? The extremely long sleeved jacket they made a couple seasons ago! It was so dramatic and was spoken about so much! Quite cool I’ d say.

What do you think about the brand (likes/dislikes)? Why? Likes – the deisgns are innovative and really chic and trendy Dislike – flashy What can be improved in your opinion? Minimalistic approachand lower prices Have you ever bought a product from them? If yes, from where and how often? no If not, will you consider buying clothes from Y/Project? Why / Why not ? Yes I would few of their products are really nice

Bijuri How did you learn about Y/ Project? Word of mouth If you did not know the brand before this, what is your first impression of it (check vogue runway and their instagram page, Tumblr, farfetch) The brand is bold, trendy, chic, sophisticated, wild What do you think of the prices? You can check them on farfetch.com The prices are little high for the collection Do you view the Y/Project as a luxury brand? Why? Not a luxury a premium brand as of now, they need the exclusivity and a different subtle and minimalistic tone in their communications What is it that you consider luxury? A unique experience with a long lasting product Which other brands can you associate with Y/Project? Ummm luxury brand – Versace , casue of its loud out there nature Describe the Y/Project in one word.

According to you, which segment of people are they targeting? Give Reasons. The upper class aged 25-35 Do you think the brand has a niche? If yes, why do you think so? Yes it does as they have a wild funky tone with some sophistication in it, they are creating a fusion of casual with formal wear Describe the way you want your customer experience to be at a luxury store/e-store? Smooth user friendly easy to navigate Do you think Good/Bad design space matters? Yes it does Do you think celebrities like Rihanna are in line with the brand? Name other celebrities you can associate with the brand. Rihanna , katy perry, cara delvigne What is your occupation? Student Which genre of movies do you prefer? Rom coms, action Which genre of music do you prefer?

Hiphop edm Which social media platform are you most active on? instagram Do you trust Bloggers/ Influencers’ opinions? Some of them who are genuine What type of content do you enjoy related to fashion? New trends, fashion shows taking place all around the world, what everyone is wearing, fashion exhibits Anya 1. Y/Project?

How did you learn about

Through a friend. 2. If you did not know the brand before this, what is your first impression of it (check vogue runway and their instagram page, Tumblr, farfetch) Millennial High Fashion, Odd Couture, Innovative 3. What do you think of the prices? You can check them on farfetch.com I think their products are highly priced. As much as their sense of fashion looks like it is meant for millennial’s, it is certainly not priced that way. 4. Do you view the Y/ Project as a luxury brand? Why? Yes. I do view Y/Project as a luxury brand. Their sense of design resonates with the idea of luxury. Carrying these outfits is not meant for anybody & everybody and that gives it a touch of exclusivity. Other than that, the quality-price relationship gives it the luxury tag. 5. What is it that you consider luxury? Luxury for me is exquisite design, quality material, superior customer care and a prominent brand ambassador. 6. Which other brands can you associate with Y/Project?

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Acne Studios, Vetements, Off White are a few I can think of.

brand? Name other celebrities you can associate with the brand.

7. Describe the Y/Project in one

Yes. Beyonce, Bella Hadid, Alek Wek, Solange Knowles, Fei Fei Sun. 17. What is your occupation?

word. Arresting. 8. What do you think about the brand (likes/dislikes)? Why? I like that there’s a mix of art & design in their products. I dislike the conceited look on all the models faces. 9. What can be improved in your opinion? The people representing the brand. 10. Have you ever bought a product from them? If yes, from where and how often? No. 11. If not, will you consider buying clothes from Y/Project? Why / Why not? No. Because if you look hard enough, you’ll find similar stuff somewhere else, cheaper. 12. According to you, which segment of people are they targeting? Give Reasons. The rich millennial. Because that’s the kind of audience they’re using for their brand imagery. 13. Do you think the brand has a niche? If yes, why do you think so? Yes, they seem like they have a niche for chunky odd couture. A lot of their designs are loud and bold and that’s the impression it made on me. 14. Describe the way you want your customer experience to be at a luxury store/e-store? Highly professional and customized. A typical experience at a luxury store would be a detailed interaction wherein I outline exactly what I need and my expectations are met with sufficient reasoning. 15. Do you think Good/Bad design space matters? Absolutely. 16. Do you think celebrities like Rihanna are in line with the

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Social media marketing executive at a digital marketing firm called RedAlkemi 18. Which genre of movies do you prefer?

luxury? Something that is exclusive, tells a great story, and provides an exceptional consumer experience. Which other brands can you associate with Y/Project? Vetements, Jacquemus and Almaz. Describe the Y/Project in one word. Gothic, edgy, or unexpected.

Thrillers, Documentaries, Autobiographies, Art & Cult 19. Which genre of music do you prefer? Hip Hop, Western Classical, Jazz. 20. Which social media platform are you most active on? LinkedIn, Instagram. 21. Do you trust Bloggers/ Influencers’ opinions? Hardly. 22. What type of content do you enjoy related to fashion? Behind the scenes, making of campaigns, DIY’s, new trends.

What do you think about the brand (likes/dislikes)? Why? I really appreciate the inspiration from gothic culture, unique silhouettes, wearability as well the attitude of the brand as a whole. Also, the brands sense of identity. There isn’t much to “ dislike” about the brand other than the slightly high price point. What can be improved in your opinion? Versatility, maybe. Have you ever bought a product from them? If yes, from where and how often? No, I have not. However, I might buy the printed oversized hoodie from Farfetch.

Simran How did you learn about Y/ Project? I came across the brand on social media- Instagram, to be specific. If you did not know the brand before this, what is your first impression of it (check vogue runway and their instagram page, Tumblr, farfetch) What do you think of the prices? You can check them on farfetch.com In my opinion, the brand is a little overpriced. Do you view the Y/Project as a luxury brand? Why? No, I do not. Not yet, at least. This is because it lacks heritage, a story, and doesn’t really have the aesthetic of a luxury brand. But it definitely is the brand for millennials. What is it that you consider

If not, will you consider buying clothes from Y/Project? Yes. Why / Why not? I love the mix of gothic influence and street fashion- very trendy. According to you, which segment of people are they targeting? Give Reasons. Millennials. Mostly because it is a relatively newer brand, and also on the edgier, street wear side of fashion. Most of the styles and silhouettes would probably appeal more to the younger generation. Name other celebrities you can associate with the brand. Definitely Hailey Baldwin. Bella & Gigi Hadid, and Kendall Jenner. What is your occupation? I’m a student.

APPENDIX 2 ONLINE SURVEY

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APPENDIX 3 INTERVIEW QUESTIONS

Noemi, 31, Hungary, back office assistant Do you prefer to shop online or offline? Noémi:Probably online Do you prefer to order from the brand’s website or from other e-commerce platforms where they have several brands to choose from? Noémi:From the brand’s website Why? Noémi:It’s easier to find the items of the brands, I don’t have to browse to find them What is important to you on a website? Noémi:To see how the garment looks on a person, to know what kind of fabric was it made of, and to see the size-chart. Is the design of the website important for you? Noémi: Yes, i prefer if it’s easy to clear, easy to browse, and it looks nice. It’s more convincing like that. Could you tell me a good and a bad offline shopping experience? Noémi: Good experience for me when the shop assistant is nice and ready to help. Bad when they look down on me, and when the changing room is dirty, dusty. What do you consider luxury when it comes to fashion brands? Noémi: It depends on the price! And if the garments are elegant, and the fabric is good quality. Is it important to you that the brand has a certain message or identity? Noémi:Not really Is sustainability important to you? Do you consider it when

shopping? Noémi: It is important but I doesn’t really affect my shopping habits. Are you following the current trends? If yes, where? Noémi: Kind of, I’m following the website of my favorite brands. Is it important for you to follow trends? Noémi:Yes but only if I like the trend.

Teodora, 58, Hungary, teacher Do you prefer to shop online or offline? Teodora: online Do you prefer to order from the brand’s website or from other e-commerce platforms where they have several brands to choose from? Mama: the brand’s website Why? Teodora: I want to have the choice of the whole collection and I prefer to have the deals of the brands. What is important to you on a website? Teodora: to see a 360 degree of the garments. To have the length of them. User Friendly, easy to use Is the design of the website important for you? Teodora: yes, I like a clean, elegant style, and easy to ready fonts. Should not be too colorful so it won’t distract my attention from the clothes Could you tell me a good and a bad offline shopping experience? Teodora: bad: because of my illness i can’t wear ‘normal’ shoes and when i entered a shoe store the young -and not too intelligent- shop assistant

looked at me (because of the shoes i was wearing) the way that i immediately wanted to leave the store Good: when i entered a wedding store with my daughter and my husband they treated us like we were kings, even though me and my husband were dressed very poorly atm What do you consider luxury when it comes to fashion brands? Teodora: quality, elegant, nice fabrics with good quality stitching, and very expensive Is it important to you that the brand has a certain message or identity? Teodora: no, it isn’t. Is sustainability important to you? Do you consider it when shopping? Teodora: i know it should be important, but it doesn’t affect my purchase. If there were 2 very similar products with similar prices, i’ d choose the sustainable one but only if it stays in my budget Are you following the current trends? If yes, where? Teodora: no, i don’t. Even when i have, i only wore the trends which suited me. (however, if there’s a tv show about trends and i accidentally switch there i’ll watch it. Nilanjana, 23, India, fashion student Do you prefer to shop online of offline? Nilanjana: depends on if i am browsing through something and i like it instantly, i will buy it.so more of impulsive purchases online. but if i know i want to go shopping, i will go to a store Do you prefer if the brand has its on webshop? Nilanjana: yes, if i like a

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brand, i want it to be available to me everywhere so both online and offline and since i already know the sizes that fit me from the brand, it is more convenient what is important to you on a website? Nilanjana: user friendliness, even design actually, the website should look nice and feel smooth, it makes the experience better. Features like size guides for a particular garment, saving options. and when it suggests me things on the basis of what I buy more Can you tell me a bad and a good in store experience? Nilanjana: bad experience: if the sales people don’t respond enthusiastically or help me out with things, bad smell (cannot stand it), bad music (not so much though) also if they don’t have the sizes, it really annoys me. good experience: contradictory to what a bad experience is Do you follow trends? If yes, where? Nilanjana: yes i do, mostly online - digital versions of fashion magazines, other blogs like whowhatwear, instagram, and influencers and bloggers obviously. and also what I see people wear on the street. i have a very curious eye. What do you consider as luxury? Nilanjana: for me, something that is all about the experience and how good it makes you feel. the functional value probably isn’t a lot but it is more about the emotional value Do you consider Y/Project as a luxury brand? Nilanjana: it’s not very known right now. They are not very visible right now, i also know very little about it, but yes I do consider them as luxury Could you tell me what if your impression of the brand is? Nilanjana: i find the brand quite dramatic and over the top brand in the sense their designs. Does that mean that you wouldn’t buy their garments? Nilanjana: no,i love the fact that it is dramatic, dramatic does not necessarily mean it has to be negative Do you find the pieces difficult to wear? Nilanjana: no, for me, not, i

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mean probably for a lot of other people. Do you feel that the brand has a particular image and has a core value? Nilanjana: yes sure. for me it’s more a “ don’t care, don’t kill my vibe attitude’.not the brand itself but i visualise the people who wear the brand as somebody who is very cool and confident.and the brand image would be similar for me - cool, fun, confident, but then there are a lot of influences from the past when it comes to the design european design influences. so it is a mix of both contemporary and a little bit old.

Y/Project Interviews 1) Melissa Daes INTERVIEW QUESTIONS Personal question -How often do you buy clothes? Two to three times a month more or less -Do you keep up with fashion trends? I try to but if I’m going to invest in a piece I want it to last many years and be able to wear it again and again without getting tired of it -Do you look for brands or buy what you know already? I have my go-to brands that I know fit me well and consistently carry clothes I like but I am not tied to them. I’m open to any brand as long as I like the clothes and obviously if my budget permits. -What do you do on your leisure time? I enjoy going out to eat, dancing, binge watching TV shows and shopping -Do you care about individualization? No. From experience I find myself overwhelmed with the choices I’m given. For me individualization is the way I put an outfit together or how I accessorize it not about tampering with the actual product. -What causes are important to you? N/A -Is it important for you that the brand stands for something? A cause? Align with your beliefs? It adds value to the brand and I’ll usually keep them in mind when thinking about that particular industry because I’ve

already associated them with positive connotations in my mind. -How is luxury described? What makes something “Luxury?” Quality makes something luxurious. Also exclusivity, the fact that not everyone can have it Y/Project -How did you hear about why project? When (how long ago) Through Instagram, I don’t remember the account but it tagged each piece of an outfit worn by Gigi Hadid and the pants were Y/Project. -What do you like about the brand? I like how edgy and daring it is. Not everyone can pull off or even have the guts to wear some of their pieces. -Are you a frequent customer? I don’t own any Y/Project piece but I’m thinking about getting the cut-out trousers. -How would you define Y/ Project in 3 words? Daring, unique, fashion-forward -Do you perceive it as luxury? No -Who do you think is Y/Project’s main competitor? The first brand I thought of was Miaou because I also want a particular pair of pants they sell and like y/project most of their pieces are unique and very fashion forward -Do you keep up with their social media? No -Would you buy it more if they had a brick and mortar store? I don’t think so. I enjoy online shopping so as long as they appear in the websites I frequent it’s the same for me. Maybe if they were in department stores I would but I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit their brick and mortar store. -How likely are you to tell your peers/family/friends about Y/Project? Not likely -What is your opinion on brand collaborations? Why? I have to like the clothes if I’m going to buy it regardless of who is collaborating with who or how exclusive it is. I like how it revamps a certain expected style from a specific brand like Puma did with Rihanna. I’m always interested in H&M’s yearly collaborations with top designers as well. If I know and like both brands individually I’ll be interested.

-If you wanted to buy Y/Project, where would you buy it? I wouldn’t know. I would have to Google the brand and see what results pop-up. 2) Victoria Nassief INTERVIEW QUESTIONS Personal question -How often do you buy clothes? Once a month -Do you keep up with fashion trends? No, I simply buy when I see something I like -Do you look for brands or buy what you know already? I usually buy what I know already, I don’t have much time to go and look for different brands -What do you do on your leisure time? Spend time with friends, eat, and watch movies -Do you care about individualization? To an extent, I don’t necessarily want to stand out from the crowd but I don’t want to be dressed like everyone else. I believe that individualization refers as to how you put your outfits together. -What causes are important to you? Equality and Global Warming -Is it important for you that the brand stands for something? A cause? Align with your beliefs? Yes, I feel like it adds value to the brand and keeps it in the top of my mind. I sort of create a bond with it How is luxury described? What makes something “Luxury?” One of a kind, good quality, made well to last long, and classic. Y/Project -How did you hear about why project? When (how long ago) Through a friend, Two weeks ago -What do you like about the brand? Clothing and style is unique to the brand, doesn’t follow style of any other brands -Are you a frequent customer? No -How would you define Y/Project in 3 words? Unique, Comfortable, Edgy -Do you perceive it as luxury? No but it has a high price -Who do you think is Y/Project’s main competitor? I don’t know. -Do you keep up with their social media? No -Would you buy it more if they had a brick and mortar store? Yes because I would be able to try the clothes myself, I don’t dare to spend big

amounts of money on something I have no idea how it will fit me. -How likely are you to tell your peers/family/friends about Y/Project? 50/50. Depends on his or her style cause this is a unique band that is not for everyone -What is your opinion on brand collaborations? Why? Love them. Creates new styles and fashions from different brands that we love into one look If you wanted to buy Y/Project, where would you buy it? Online 3) Valeria Rodriguez INTERVIEW QUESTIONS Personal question -How often do you buy clothes? Once every 2 weeks -Do you keep up with fashion trends? Yes, I like to feel like I’m up to date in the fashion world. I also get really tired of wearing the same clothing and like to experiment -Do you look for brands or buy what you know already? I either buy on the brands I already know online such as ASOS and Revolve. But if it’s not online then I just go into any store that has something I like displayed on the window. I don’t feel attached to brands; I simply buy whatever I like -What do you do on your leisure time? Drink and be with friends -Do you care about individualization? Yes, I feel like I have my own style specially when it comes to styling garments. I like to mix and match colors, patterns, and so on. It also depends on how my mood. For example if I’m happy I’ll wear a lot of colors and so on. What causes are important to you? Ethical fashion, especially when it comes to the treatment of animals. -Is it important for you that the brand stands for something? A cause? Align with your beliefs? Yes! Again especially if the brand is cruelty free makes me want to buy it more -How is luxury described? What makes something “Luxury?” For me luxury is purely about quality. The texture of the materials, the way they feel, and where they are sourced/made. -How did you hear about why project? When (how long ago) Recently, through this interview -What do you like about the brand? Not much really

-Are you a frequent customer? No -How would you define Y/ Project in 3 words? Baggy, trendy and gangster -Do you perceive it as luxury? No -Who do you think is Y/Project’s main competitor? Vetements, Rick Owens -Do you keep up with their social media? No Would you buy it more if they had a brick and mortar store? No -How likely are you to tell your peers/family/friends about Y/Project? 0 -What is your opinion on brand collaborations? Why? They don’t have an effect on my thoughts about the brand. They don’t affect my purchase decisions -If you wanted to buy Y/Project, where would you buy it? Farfetch or Matches Fashion 4) Fabiola Chayele INTERVIEW QUESTIONS Personal question -How often do you buy clothes? About 3 to 4 times a month -Do you keep up with fashion trends? Not really, I just buy what I like, what aligns with my fashion taste. -Do you look for brands or buy what you know already? I don’t actively look for brands but if I come across a brand in for example, Instagram I might check it out. Most of my shopping is done online so I stick with the brands I know because I can be sure they will fit me. -What do you do on your leisure time? I go to the gym, hangout with friends, and go out -Do you care about individualization? Not really, I’ d rather not all my friends where the same clothes as me but it’s nothing that really bothers me -What causes are important to you? None -Is it important for you that the brand stands for something? A cause? Align with your beliefs? No How is luxury described? What makes something “Luxury?” For me, luxury is created with time and history. For a brand to be consider luxurious in my opinion has to have a strong history

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APPENDIX 4 INTERVIEW QUESTIONS TO GLENN MARTENS

1. If Y/PROJECT was an artist, who would it be? (which painter, writer, architect, filmmaker, photographer, musician) Why? We’re extremely eclectic. I therefore can’t give you just one artist… It’s a list of artists for many different reasons. Michael Borremans for the emotional undertone, David Altmejd for the absurd poetry, Hans Memling for the detailing, Britney for the fun! 2. What are the vision and the ambition driving the brand? We take any reference we like regardless of era or subculture. It is a very emotional process. There’s no rule, it just happens, we do what we want and try to find some balance in between the extremes. Our collection plan therefore flirts with streetwear, sportswear, couture, tailoring…. it’s some kind of celebration of the huge melting pot we’re living it. Paris is an never-ending source of inspiration. There’s of course the great history, but it’s also a metropole embracing many different cultures. we want to talk to all kinds of different people from many different backgrounds 3. What is your ideal conception of retail spaces? Why? The starting point of each garment is construction. Most pieces are extremely rich and elaborated so i feel the more toned down retail places help focussing on the craftsmanship behind our clothes. 4. How do you want consumers to feel when wearing Y/Project? With Y/Project we’ve been celebrating individuality. I see a lot of brands pushing the “army-effect”. Once you wear the brand you become the brand. I respect such approach but for us, we want to do the opposite. A lot of the clothes we propose are conceived to be totally versatile. The idea is that

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they have to grow on your personality. We invite our customer to make a choice, you need to own the piece: “ how do i feel today? how do i want to wear this garment?” the different answers can often be found in one single piece. I think this freedom, the fun factor, is what has triggers people. 5. What do you want your customers to take away as a brand image or /and feelings from the brand’s online presence? I hope people are aware of the diversity of the full collection plan

REFERENCES Export Entreprises SA. Santander Trade Portal (2018) France: Reaching the consumers. February, 2018. [Online] [Accessed on 5th January] https://en.portal. santandertrade.com/analyse-markets/france/reaching-the-consumers Encyclopedia of Philosophy (no date) Eclecticism [Online] [Accessed 10th February] http://www.iep.utm.edu/eclectic/ Fashion Beauty Monitor (2017) ‘The New face of Luxury’. 2018. Juneja, P. (no date) ‘Brand Extension - Meaning, Advantages and Disadvantages’ Management Study Guide. https://www.managementstudyguide. com/brand-management-challenges.htm MoMa (no date) ‘Nude’ MoMa Learning [Online] [Accessed 20th January] https://www.moma.org/learn/moma_learning/max-ernst-levade-the-fugitive Morency, C. (2018) Meet Fashion’s First Computer-Generated Influencer. Business of Fashion [Accessed on 1st January ] https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/intelligence/meeting-fashions-first-computer-generated-influencer-lilmiquela-sousa Snyder, C. R., & Fromkin, H. L. (1977). ‘Abnormality as a positive characteristic: The development and validation of a scale measuring need for uniqueness’. Journal Abnormal of Psychology. [Accessed on 1st February] http:// dx.doi.org/10.1037/0021-843X.86.5.518 Wheeler, M. (2017) ‘Why Slow Fashion Is Picking Up The Pace.’ Huffington Post. [Online] 10th July, 2017. [Accessed on 5th January] http://sourced. huffingtonpost.co.uk/2017/07/10/why-slow-fashion-is-picking-up-the-pace/

BIBLIOGRAPHY Gilmore, J., Pine II, B. (1997) ‘The Four Faces of Mass Customization’ Harvard Business Review [online] [Accessed on 14th February] Lynn, M., & Harris, J. (1997). ‘Individual differences in the pursuit of self-uniqueness through consumption’. Cornell University, School of Hospitality Administration [Online]. [Accessed on 1st February] http://scholarship.sha.cornell. edu/articles/14 Szybillo, G. J. (1975). A situational influence on the relationship of a consumer attribute to new-product attractiveness. Journal of Applied Psychology [Online] [Accessed on 10th February] http://psycnet.apa.org/doiLanding?doi=10.1 037%2Fh0077153

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ICONOGRAPHY Y/Project (2017) Cover [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www. arcstreet.com/2017/01/y/project-fall/winter-2017-menswear-pfw.html Jaraleño, K (2016) Cadaver Exquisito [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://diezmo-de-palabras.blogspot.fr/2016/11/ Y/Project (no date) Gold woman [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] yproject.fr Y/Project (no date) Table of content [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] yproject.fr Crash (2015) Backstage at y/project spring-summer 2016 Paris [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www.crash.fr/backstage-at-yproject-spring-summer2016-paris/ Watt, C. (2013) David Gandy in Scotland for Johnnie Walker Blue Label 2013 [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://david-james-gandy.tumblr.com/ post/144390016796/ohmygandy-tbt-david-gandy-in-scotland-for Yamamoto, Y. (2018) Website [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www. yohjiyamamoto.com Yamamoto, Y. (2018) Instagram Profile. [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www.instagram.com/yohjiyamamotoofficial Owens, R. (2018) Website [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www. rickowens.com Pugh, G. (2018) Website [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www. garethpugh.com Pugh, G. (2018) Instagram Profile. [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www.instagram.com/garethpughstudio Owens, R. (2018) Instagram Profile. [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] www.instagram.com/rickowensonline Y/Project (2017) Printemps-été 2018. Marie Claire [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://cache.marieclaire.fr/data/photo/w1000_c17/defiles/COURANT/ GGN/2610498/1237302/COURANT-0.jpg Farfetch (no date) Y / Project denim jacket with exaggerated sleeves [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://cdn-images.farfetchcontents.com/12/41/98/58/ 12419858_11360774_322.jpg Indulgy.com (no date) Eclecticism [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://indulgy.com/post/1PJmAbrmC1/art#/search/art%20grouping/page/2 Tanguy, Y. and others (1925) Nude [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www.monalyz.fr/5.html Moonboard Fine, A. (no date) Women without face [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://www.designspiration.net/save/3645799719164/ Tumblr (no date) Women face decorated [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://fatbrides.tumblr.com/post/43930722808 Raexira (no date) Face with white lines [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://weheartit.com/entry/279918055 Strempler, W. (2013) ‘Collage CICOTTE 2013’ Tumblr [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://stremplerart.tumblr.com/post/61111016212/collagecicotte-2013-waldemar-strempler-tumblr

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Madame Peripetie (2013) Cadavre Exquis [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www.ufunk.net/en/photos/cadavre-exquis-madame-peripetie/ Miranda, I. (2017) ‘Deconfigurated face’ ABC Cultural [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www.abc.es/cultura/cultural/abci-nosotros-tambien-creamoscadaver-exquisito-201702271623_noticia.html Pinterest (no date) Collage of body [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https:// www.pinterest.fr/pin/514817801140702901/ Hall, J. (2017) Ghost in a Shell Movie Photogram [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://cdn.movieweb.com/img.news.tops/NEpdJODR6Jq1sy_2_b/Ghost-InThe-Shell-Trailer-International.jpg D*Face (2009) ‘UnAmerican Graffiti’ Edition of 100 Size: 38 x 48 Inches [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://postersandprints.wordpress.com/2009/10/28/ dface-unamerican-graffiti-print-release-details/ Nelson, J. (2013) Series ‘Psychedelic Furs’ [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://thelibertineezine.com/2013/08/25/psychedelic-furs-georgiana-saraev-by-jamienelson-summer-2013/ Nelson, J. (2013) Series ‘Psychedelic Furs’ [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://thelibertineezine.com/2013/08/25/psychedelic-furs-georgiana-saraev-by-jamienelson-summer-2013/ Instagram (2017) Instagram post lilmiquela [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://www.instagram.com/p/BcofF0eFU4P/?hl=en&taken-by=lilmiquela Instagram (2017) Instagram profile lilmiquela [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://www.instagram.com/lilmiquela/?hl=en Courtesy (no date) @lilmiquela [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/meeting-fashions-first-computergenerated-influencer-lil-miquela-sousa CETI (no date) Twitter profile picture [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/852516848050606080/TYWJE4ap_400x400.jpg CETI (no date) Visite du CETI [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://i. ytimg.com/vi/6XqEpLXKd1M/maxresdefault.jpg Rigueur Lab (no date) LinkedIn profile picture [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://media.licdn.com/mpr/mpr/shrink_200_200/ AAAJDUzMGNmNGNkAAEAAQAAAAA1Ny1iMWNmLTU3NTIzOTIxZmYzNQ. png Rigueur Lab (2018) De Rigueur Lab: des solutions Fashion Tech. Premiere Vision [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] https://www.premierevision.com/content/ uploads/2018/01/dr-1-440x294.jpg Euveka (2017) Euveka, 2017 Creative Lab Startup Vision [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://frenchculture.org/sites/default/files/styles/max/public/ euveka_-_3_questions_for_visuals.png?itok=jI3pMTPd JRC (no date) Logo [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http://www.jrc-reflex. com/portals/2/Images/logo_company.jpg JRC (no date)’Woven Fabric’ CRY Brochure. Blasco, S. (2015) Body pieces [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] http:// carnetimaginaire.tumblr.com/post/135073316273/susana-blasco-coming-to-town Pinterest (no date) Collage eye and mouth. [Online Image] [Accessed 18th January] [Accessed 18th January]

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