OSKLEN
Prof: Cristina Kontiou FALL 2016 FASM 400 - Contemporary Issues in Fashion Maria Luisa Sanchez Savannah College of Art and Desing
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Oskar Metsavath
SWOT
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Osklen
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Pirarucu skin
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Target Market
Osklen X H&M
Competitors
Innovation & Promotion
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O
skar Metsavath is a Brazilian designer, physician, artist, entrepreneur, filmmaker and the founder of the creative brand Osklen founded in 1990. At first it consisted in selling sportswear but later it took a drastic change and moved to exploring the sustainable and environmental aspect. Due to all his professions he is the one in charge of the brand’s stories and scenes, he likes to be the Art director of the brand. Oskar stated (2016) that his creative process started with a concept that either he has created or an experience he has lived, he creates the climate and atmosphere of his collections.
As mentioned before he is the pioneer for being environmentalist and leader of the sustainability movement and for carrying the concept “New Luxury�. He has been the founder for several non-profit organizations and the number one promoter of environmentally friendly fabrics in Brazil. Nevertheless, he has won several recognitions in Brazil such as the Goodwill Ambassador, E-award and has become the member of the Greenpeace board. With all this mentioned: environment, culture and nature are the aspects in which he believes in, and the primary values his brands stands for.
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Osklen brand and the Rio way of living
Osklen.com
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MISSION Osklen is a Brazilian brand known for getting inspiration from the Rio way of living. It demonstrates the perfect combination between nature and urban elegance. He states in an interview that “He gets inspiration from several sources such as: natural experience, oceans, the amazon, cultural tribes, and from natural disasters. Everything that nature causes the designers feels fascinated, he has inspired in all of this characteristic to form his most precious collections.
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His first collection was inspired by Vento meaning wind in Portuguese, he was fascinated with how the wind moved and how it played with people’s clothes. But he felt more fascinated about exploring the concept he fell in love with the most, sustainability. Through his brand he wants to portray that Osklen is not about nature and the environment but about the realization of strong cultural and historical traditions. In one of his collections Metsavath was influenced by Brazilian and Peruvian culture specifically the Ashaninka community that lived in the rainforest. He used traditional materials and fabrics as inspiration for his spring 2016 collection. He also paid them back by building a school for the tribe among other helpful resources. In 2011 his collection was another fusion of tradition, he was driven to analyze the similarities between the African culture with the Brazilian traditions. The result was that this two cultures had a lot in common: in their music, dance and in religion, and the result of mixing these traditions gave birth to “The Royal Black Collection�. In this collection he used several materials such as the E-fabric and he also implements fish skin materials such as salmon, tilapia and pirarucu -native fish in Brazil. The use of this raw materials make the brand be more committed to its mission that is to compromise to a sustainable and ecological lifestyle. The material of the E-fabric is in this case a shiny fabric that compromises with the process of production and sourcing, meaning being more detailed when knowing where is this fabric from.
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PIRARUCU SKIN
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Pirarucu fish is one of the largest in the planet mainly found in the Amazon. The skin used in Osklen is derived from the Amazonian state of Rondonia and they come from sustainable farms which consist in protecting species and helps stabilize the brand food supply and helps with economy of the region. Thanks to this Amazonian fish skin Osklen helps with local economies by bringing and giving people from that area a chance to work, when the fish skin is removed and starts the process of dying, it goes through a natural process which doesn’t carry any hormones nor pollutant chromium. The designer used fish skin because he stated (2012) that fish skin is usually thrown away when in fact it can be used as a substitute of leather. Not many people know but fish skin can be seamed as very thin and light when in fact it is strong and very resistant.
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Pirarucu sustainable process, production and products.
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The pirarucu fish is found in the Amazon surrounded by Brazil and located in several regions. In the production chart it shows the regions and the production activities in which the osklen group manufactures, and recycles the skin from this fish. We can see that in the first region, Pimiento Bueno they only develop the process of fishing, in the second and third region we see that in Itapora and in Tres Rios they manufacture and recycle leaving Montenegro and Rio de Janeiro for producing and completing the process in order to create the fish goods. Such as shoes, handbags, clothing among other remarkable products with the purpose of proving to the world that we can make goods from recycable fish skin,
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-Set sustainability as a lifestyle concept and the use of raw materials such as e-fabric and fish skin (Pirarucu, salmon).
-Need to educate the customer, don’t entirely know where the sustainable materials are from and what is their purpose.
-Named as the pioneer of environmentalism and identified as the “Future Maker”. -Supports and does cultural appropriation correctly taking inspirations from tribes and nature (Ashaninka tribe).
-The brand needs more recognition worldwide.
-Metsavaht is also the founder of Instituto-E, a non-profit organization based in Brazil, and also a member of “creator’s project”.
-Sustainable brand stablished since 2000 gaining awareness little by little.
o -Metsavaht plans on increasing Osklen’s exports to at least 15% of the company’s annual sales. -Osklen counts with 63 wholly-owned stores in Brazil, and 10 abroad, the chain also exports its products to over 30 countries. -Expanding into high-end department stores with innovative designs and the use of raw materials (fish skin).
T -For Metsavaht to repeat his domestic success abroad, he needs a bigger partner to back him up properly. -High-end stores and brands more recognized are adapting the same concept of sustainability.
-As a designer he adapts the concepts of nature and environment in a innovative way. -Implementing the concept of “New Luxury”
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TARGET MARKET
MARINA SOLE Originally from Florence, Italy and currently lives in New York City. Marina is 27 years old and she graduated from Parsons the New School. She’s a fashion designer that moved to the big apple to find opportunity and to set the concept of sustainability as a lifestyle, her aesthetic is very clean and minimal. In her collections she uses 100% organic cotton and doesn’t use dyes or chemicals into her clothes. Her office is located in Williamsburg, Brooklyn where all the emerging designers are located. Being active, doing yoga, hiking and reading books is what she is all about. She loves nature and enjoying it on the weekends, she is an innovator and very independent. Some of her must haves when dressing are: white blouse, bold accesories and big sunglasses.
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PENELOPE SUAREZ Penelope is 45 years old currently from Brazil, Rio de Janeiro. She graduated with a bachelors degree in journalism from the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro. She is an outgoing woman who loves exploring and enjoying nature and finding new places to enjoy with friends. She works in a local newspaper called O globo and over the years she has been emphasizing her columns in the ambiental impact that fashion is causing, she promotes sustainable designers and different ways of recyclying goods. Also she has a deep love for fashion and trying new things, she’s an experiencer.
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COMPETITORS
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OSEI-DURO This brand is based in Los Angeles, CA and in Ghana specially in Accra. They produce their textiles and garments in India, Peru and in Ghana where they got their first inspiration. Founders Molly Keogh and Marianne Mathias created this line with the main purpose of providing fair employement for local artisans from that area. Osei-Duro promotes the traditional techniques of weaving, hand-dying, blockprinting, Brasscasting among other innovative techniques. Their mission is to support local apparel industries and that by little by little becoming fully sustainable.
oseiduro.com
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VOZ Voz means “voice� in Spanish and is an ethical luxury brand founded in 2002 that supports cultural and traditional values of women in Chile. Founder of the brand Jasmine Aarons wanted to empower artisans from Temuco, Chile, Peru and India. She wants to preserve traditional art forms and create beautiful fashion with organic and vegetable-dyed materials and hand-woven techniques. Her mission is to carry her voice aroung the world and promote sustainable ways and techniques of making fashionable clothes. The brand is currently based in Brooklyn, New York City.
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madebyvoz.com
BASE RANGE Is a sustainable brand based in Denmark and in France that offers a variety of clean and accessible desings. Founders Marie-Louise Mogensen and Blandline Legait developed a collection were they reduce the use of water and chemical consumption. They used organic cotton like bamboo to achieve their main goal that is to reduce enviromental impact.
baserange.net
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SUSTAINABLE SUCCESS
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As a fast fashion brand H&M cares about their customers wants and needs, they decided to implement a conscious collection into their brand. CEO of the brand states that they need to change how fashion is made, H&M little by little is growing and implementing the concept of sustainability into their collections. They have been using organic cotton as part of their materials and also they included the reuse and recycle of clothing as a primordial way for sustainable fashion. As a result of this they have created new designs and styles with reusable clothes. However, they have been working very hard to step up their sustainability goals, by using technology, transparency and equality. They have been very transparent as a company where they manufacture and where they get their products from. Nevertheless, they have implemented a new system for consumers that compares sustainable clothes with other brands. H&M as a brand has implemented seven commandments that represent their ethical values. 1.Provide fashion for conscious customers. 2.Choose and rewars responsible partners. 3.Be ethical. 4.Be climate smart. 5.Reduce, reuse, recycle 6.Use natural resources responsibly. 7.Strengthen communities. Sustainability.hm.com
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OSKLEN X H&M Create a fashion collaboration between the Brazilian fashion designer Oskar Metsavath and the brand H&M for their conscious collection. The collaboration will offer a set of t-shirts with designs that will display symbols of the Amazonian tribes, the material used will be 100% cotton and the tags will tell stories and traditional facts from the Ashaninka tribe. This collaboration will be a mix between fashion and nature and 50% of the profit will be towards helping the Amazonian tribes with resources, education and help them improve their living conditions. - Purpose: Bring more recognition and brand awareness to the Brazilian brand Osklen and to the concept of sustainable design. - Raise and promote more the conscious collection that H&M offers. - Implement a new strategy for promoting sustainable design inside stores. - Create a GREEN corner inside stores for customers to notice an eco-green space.
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OSKLEN X
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DESIGN VARIATIONS
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OSKLEN X H&M T-SHIRTS
SIZE XS-XL COLOR B/W- GREEN HK$79.90
SIZE XS-XL COLOR WHITE HK$79.90
SIZE XS-XL COLOR WHITE/MULTI HK$79.90
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SIZE: XS - XL PRODUCT DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION CONSCIOUS. Fitted top slub jersey made from organic cotton with short sleeves and a gently round hem. DETAILS Machine wash at 40.
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ASHANINKA TRIBE FACTS -The Ashaninka tribe had a traditional dress called Kushma, it consists in a cotton robe that is collected, spun and dyed by women. -Women in the Amazonian tribes wore their hair long an over the shoulder and men typically wore their hair short or in a “bowl� cut. -They typically wore accessories around their neck such as: seeds, colorful feathers, teeth of peccary and monkeys. -For ceremonial purposes they painted their faces with red designs.
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PROMOTION
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INNOVATIONS
GREEN CORNER -An iconic GREEN Corner will be a perfect fit for H&M stores. Neon signs and greenery on the walls will catch the customers eye, and it will inform them about an existing conscious line.
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REFERENCES Hallin.H (2016, October,26) Personal Interview Antunes, A. (2012, January 24). Osklen, Brazil’s First Global Luxury Brand. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://www.forbes.com/sites/andersonantunes/2012/01/24/osklen-brazils-first-global-luxury-brand/#6befd7106503 Oskar Metsavaht | #BoF500 | The Business of Fashion. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www. businessoffashion.com/community/people/oskar-metsavaht (2012). OSKLEN – Brazilian Soul. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from aroundtheworldin80brands.wordpress.com/2012/08/ Metsavaht, O. (n.d.). Osklen. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://osklen.com/oskarmetsavahtprofile_en.php OSKLEN. (n.d.). Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://osklen.com/pirarucu/sustainability.php Osklen Recycles Discarded Fish Skins Into Luxurious Shoes, Bags. (n.d.). Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://www.ecouterre.com/osklen-recycles-discarded-fish-skins-into-luxurious-shoes-bags/osklen-2/?extend=1 FashionModelDirectory.com, T. F. (n.d.). Osklen - Fashion Brand | Brands | The FMD. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/brands/osklen/
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Asháninka people. (n.d.). Retrieved November 13, 2016, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asháninka_ people Hartman, Eviana. “Meet Fashion’s Cool New Wave of Sustainable Chic Designers.” Vogue. N.p., 22 Apr. 2015. Web. 13 Nov. 2016. Inspiration, A. World of. “H&M Offers Fashion and Quality at the Best Price.” H&M Offers Fashion and Quality at the Best Price. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Nov. 2016.
www. Pinterest.com Nylander, L. (2015, December 4). It’s 2015: Why Does Fashion STILL Have A Problem With Diversity? Varagur, K. (n.d.). Is This The Right Way For Fashion To Do Cultural Appropriation? Retrieved May 11, 2015.
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Metsavaht believes sustainability has to be a mission, not a short-term marketing campaign.