Fashionbi Magazine No.3 Fashion Conscious or Conscience of Fashion by MariVi Avalos

Issue No.3 April 2014

Fashion Consciousor Conscienceof Fashion

â&#x20AC;&#x153;An overview on the most sensitive topics in fashion today, and how the industry is facing themâ&#x20AC;? 4 exclusive interviews with prominent experts in the industry, sharing their insights about the specific topics that are revolutionizing the fashion scene.

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDEX

Index OVERVIEW Fashion Revealed

05 07

Between Fashion Utopia and Fashion Reality

Fashion as a Non Verbal Social Communication

13 16

Is there a Human Side of Fashion?

All Men Are Equal Before... Fashion

“FAT” or “UGLY”: The Boundaries between Image and Discrimination

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE Corporate Social Responsibility: A Shift from Short Term Marketing Campaigns to Long Term Integration in the Fashion Business Model

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS Women On Top? : An Interview with Elle Middle East Owner and Director of Edition Mrs. Désirée Sadek and Elle Arab World Editor in Chief Ms. Maria Aziz

The Other Side of Exploitation: An Interview with Italian Journalist, Caterina Lunghi

Coming to Consciousness: An Interview with the Footwear, Industrial Design, Management and Education Multicultural Expert, Yves Molet Molet

The Stella Mc Cartney’s “White Ribbon” Social Media Campaign to Stop Violence Against Women

FUTURE TRENDS Will Sustainability and Ethical Fashion Remain a Key Subject in the Next 10 years?

43 45

Ethical Fashion Market Predictions: An Interview with Peter Caplowe, The Hub Co-Founder

The Answer May Be in Your Grandma’s Wardrobe

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

EDITORIAL LETTER

Have you heard of the saying “Don’t air your dirty laundry in public!”? Well, it means that you shouldn’t reveal personal or not good qualities, habits or deeds, publicly. Today, with all the information we have available through social media and the speed at which news facts are spread, this saying, especially for the fashion industry is almost a mission impossible. The “glamorous world of fashion” is not so glamorous anymore, because media has brought the attention on the “ugly” side of it. Moving the spotlight onto social and critical issues, that this industry is facing today: from the hazardous environmental impact, human rights and sweatshops to gender and aesthetics discrimination. The industry is facing these issues and fashion brands and companies are starting to try and deal with them, that is the reason why we dedicated this Fashionbi No.3 issue titled “Fashion Conscious or Conscience of Fashion” to these controversial topics. Through interesting stories and interviews from fashion insiders, our No.3 issue offers a clear overview and a deep analysis about how they are manifested in the industry with a special attention on how the fashion groups are behaving towards them. Inside the issue you will find an online performance analysis from the perspective of fashion conglomerates, and we even go further with a customized analysis that explores the outcomes of Stella McCartney’s ”White ribbon” social media campaign. In our “Industry Insights by the Insiders”, fashion journalist Caterina Lunghi shares her experience on doing a research on Bangladesh factories,

Editorial Letter and Yves Molet gives us a multicultural perspective about what is sustainable fashion from the product design’s canon. Finally, we end it on a positive, motivational and encouraging interview done with Désirée Sadek, Editor in Chief & Owner of ELLE Middle East, and Maria Aziz, Editor In Chief of ELLE Arab World, who tell us how it is to be a woman in a male-dominated industry. From an infiltrated journalist in Bangladesh, (Caterina Lunghi), to a multidisciplinary designer with experience in more than 4 countries (Yves Molet), you will be asking yourself: Is a fashion revolution the right way to go in order to solve the problematic? Will there ever be a truce between fashion, environment and social responsibility? Will these topics continue to beg people and media attention? Our editors and contributors tried their research best to provide useful keys and clear insights such us an important interview to a Marketing expert and fashion entrepreneur from Asia (Peter Caplowe, TheHub Co-founder), empowering you to find the right answers and share with us his vision to the future. The exploration of these topics had made us realize the urgency of looking at both sides of the coin before it is too late. We hope you will enjoy Fashionbi’s Magazine Issue No.3 as much as we enjoyed writing it.

Marivi Avalos Monárrez Fashionbi CMO & Managing Director for Asia Photo by Yazmin Yeara

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Fashion Revealed Author: Marivi Avalos Monárrez

The majority of people see the fashion industry as one full of glamour and luxury.

The fashion industry plays in our daily life a significant role, it is a big business and it is compound of different stages like: manufacturing, retailing, styiling, etc. But most importantly what happens at the end of the cycle when is the time for disposing of what has been manufactured. As

Nice and beautiful things surrounding an individual’s regular lifestyle

accompanied

a result, it can be said that fashion is one of the industries with the highest social and environmental impact.

im-

portant people, models, cele-

Why social and why environmental impact?

brities, everybody who is some-

By mentioning social and environmental impact, there is a reference to

body is inside this magic circle.

key sub-topics that should be handled by every player in this business, not

Exactly like Miranda Prestley’s in-

only in terms of companies but also in terms of informed and responsible

famous observation (when Meryl

consumers.

Streep’s character addresses her

These key topics are: pollution, chemical toxicity, waste, child labor and

assistant - Anne Hathaway - when

sweatshop conditions, gender discrimination, modified body image and

she asks what is the whole fashion

unhealthy standards for an esthetical and “socially acceptable” body.

system about) “Don’t be silly darling, everybody wants to be us”. But let’s face it nowadays the other side of fashion has been re-

At the present time, the most common term used to include all the mentioned sub-topics inside the industry is “Sustainability.” This word means: – Harnessing resources ethically and responsibly without destroying social and ecological balance as defined by the London College of Fashion.

vealed, with the high and unlimit-

There are also other terms frequently used in the industry to communi-

ed access to information, it is im-

cate that they care about the hazardous impacts just mentioned above,

possible to hide what is behind the

and those are Ethical Fashion, Organic Fashion, Green Fashion, Eco-Fash-

scenes of this glitz & glam world.

ion, Eco-Friendly Fashion and the list continues to grow together with tons

It’s very hard to find someone who

of different and particular definitions.

doesn’t know how the mass-market fashion is having an impact on the environment. Today, we live in a world were it is not longer enough owning diamonds or any other type of precious or luxurious items, because consumers want to be sure that no one was hurt

« Don’t be silly darling, everybody wants to be us »

or abused during the process of

- Miranda Prestley character from the original book and movie

production and creation of such

THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA -

a unique piece.

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Is there a correct term to name these concerns in the fashion industry?

Does everyone really want to be a part of the fashion world?

business. There is no need for over

The fabrics industry is one indus-

correct to define the action of a

studying which term is the most

The truth is there is no real defi-

try that is causing serious health

company or a brand that is taking

nition or an official statement

issues, and that is generating

care for its social and ecological

offering the guidelines to tell if a

an estimated of

company or a fashion brand is

13.1

being politically, ethically, legally

of textiles (just in

and 100% committed to its social

the United States

responsibility.

alone in 2012). It

(tons of fiber)

What is real is fashion is having

requires the need

Soot per Year

an environmental and social im-

of 200 tons of wa-

(tons)

pact and actions are being im-

ter for each ton of

For each Ton of Died Fabric

plemented from companies and

fabric it dyes. Just

(tons of water)

200

brands.

in China in 2010,

Waste of Water Discharge

2.5B

million

tons

China’s Textile Industry in Numbers Fiber Processed

dis-

(tons per year)

radigm because even if fashion

charges of 300,600

companies are supporting sus-

tons of COD which

Records of Factories Violating Environmental Regulations

tainable ideas and are being

represented

scrutinized to offer transparency

8.2

for consumers on all of its different

COD pollution in

stages. The whole idea of fash-

this country (Breyer,2012)1.

However, there is still a big pa-

there

were

percent

413M 3B

6,000

an of

*Data based on 2010

impact. But what is important here

ion and especially luxury is one of

Not “everybody wants to be

for these brands is to be taking

an industry that is based not on

us” right now, today being a part

their sustainable measures serious-

need but instead on desire that

of this industry claims responsibi-

ly and not just because it is a sort

frequently comes with extrava-

lity to be informed about what is

of fad in the industry•

gance and self-indulgence.

happening in every aspect of the

Toxic Threads: Putting Pollution on Parade

Breyer, Melissa (2012, Sep 11) 25 Shocking Fashion Industry Statistics Retrieved February, 14 from treehugger.com

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Between Fashion Utopia and Fashion Reality Author: Marilyne Goetz-Charlier

Fashion is for everyone! The fashion and apparel industry reached around 2,560 trillion dollars in 2010.

how to make this waste equal to nothing but how to make this waste reach a level so that the environment is not saturated by it and have enough time to regenerate itself.

Then there are the facts

People are spending so much

The textile industry is the third most polluting industry in China in terms

money on clothes nowadays that

of wastewater discharge. Around 2.5 billion tons of wastewater is dis-

the fashion industry is not that

charged every year, and the industry contributes to 8.2 percent of COD

exclusive anymore. Most of the

(chemical oxygen demand) pollution in China.

world population has access to

First, the most polluting end of the industry is the production chain.

it, everywhere and all the time

The textile production uses enormous amounts of energy, electricity

through stores, outlets, online plat-

and water and all those activities generate greenhouse gas emissions

forms and social media. Trends

(GHGs). Since most of the textile production is based in China, which

change so fast that it has become

accounted for around 52 percent to 54 percent of the world’s total

a must to be aware and buy the

production in 2010, the energy sources and the structure of the tex-

latest fashionable items; hence

tile industry in this country have a bigger impact than anywhere else.

the concept of fast fashion was

China’s energy sources are still dominated by coal, a highly polluting

born. It is especially true of the womenswear segment, which is forecasted to reach more than 621 billion by 2014. This is good news for brands as well as for people. Is it? Fashion utopia is the idea that the fashion industry could operate without creating harmful consequences to the environment and people, reaching a zero percent greenhouse gases emissions. It would be an ideal situation, a dream! Unfortunately, nothing is simply created but everything is transformed. Using raw materials to make clothing will ultimately create waste. The question is not

Greenpeace Detox Movement at H&M

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

source of energy. Again, in the

in 2013. It lists as much as 18 new

US, the energy input lost on site

technologies that can be used

equals 48 percent, mean-

in the textile production

ing that almost half of the

chain in the future and

energy of the textile

that could complete-

production is simply

ly change the face

wasted.

of the textile indus-

The other end is solid

try. Most of them are

waste from consum-

in the development

ers. Fast fashion equals

phase, but as an ex-

waste; and to be exact,

ample the use of ozone

it equals 12.7 million tons of thrown-away clothes in the US every year. The green-

for Th et hre ep

house gases are released from

illars

ir o env the y of sust b d ainability bounde

the landfills where clothes are buried and decomposing.

t en nm

bleaching

cotton

fabrics seems to be very promising. Today,

cotton

fabrics

are

bleached with hydrogen per-

Technologies of the future

oxide, a process that requires

Ali Hasanbeigi published a re-

a heating and a cooling ener-

There is business profitability

port

and

gy therefore pollutes more. The

The fashion industry is one of the

the

Alternative

Emerging Technologies for an

use of ozone would reduced the

most internationally competitive

Energy-Efficient,

Water-Efficient,

CO2 emissions by up to 50 per-

and fast-changing industries.The

and Low-Pollution Textile Industry

cent, therefore it would not need

structure of the industry is constantly changing because of the increasing population, new Internet technologies and also for the increase of energy prices. Manufacturers have to produce more and more and at the same time, their goal is to reduce their costs of production as much as possible. How can suppliers and brands

« The fashion industry could operate without creating harmful consequences to the environment »

meet their financial obligations and be eco-friendly while offering cheap and quality clothing? harmful chemicals and would be done in a shorter time, hence increasing productivity of course would be as effective as the current method. The challenge is to make the whole industry aware of the new technologies and since the plants are usually SME’s, it becomes difficult to communicate the information to all of them. Then the investment could also be an issue since new technologies often requires a high financial support. But is no brand currently Greenpeace Dirty Laundry China

investing in sustainability?

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Setting an example is a matter of choice

renewable, they are the only

these kind of changes with short

fashion company who made their

and

Are all brands putting a priority

supplier factory list public, return-

about the others?

on profits over the environment?

ing old clothes to the store is now

Or is the issue so complex that no

possible (from any brand and in

company is willing to change the

any condition) and 95% of the

situation? There is one Swedish

waste handled in their warehous-

proves it even though they are

retail-clothing company that did

es are targeted to be recycled by

not perfect; they at least aim for

respond to Greenpeace critics

the end of 2013.

it and let the whole fashion indus-

precise

deadlines,

what

Sustainable fashion is far from being a myth. H&M

among

other

brands

and is currently leading the way

H&M is one of the biggest fash-

try know about it. By the time the

to be a better sustainable fash-

ion brands and is setting a strong

new technologies are commer-

ion brand. This company is H&M

example of what a fashion com-

cialized, the brands will have a

and has been very active on the

pany can do to achieve a sus-

sustainability leadership and even

sustainability topic these past few

tainable production. If such a big

less reasons not to be part of it•

years. Their website homepage

company that sells millions of gar-

clearly shows the importance

ments every year can implement

they put on their sustainable development. “There is no way for us not to think about and invest in our sustainability, because it simply makes business sense” says Karl-Johan Persson, CEO of H&M. A few facts about the company in 2012: they were the number 1 user of organic cotton, they have a 100 percent sustainable cotton goal for 2020, 74 percent of their managers are women, they reduced their CO2 emissions by 5 percent relatively to sales, they want 100 percent of their electricity

sourced

from

H&M Conscious Foundation

H&M Conscious Collection Spring 2013

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Fashion as a Non Verbal Social Communication Author: Alejandra Ortega

Towards the end of last year, we can see more and more brands involved in social causes. Sometimes these social contri-

it because it will reduce their tax payments. Regardless of the reasons behind it, those initiatives bring in, not only monetary aid but also visibility and genuine efforts, which are considered as important. Adding to that, promises are made to release environmentally friendly products and services with the goal and desire to improve people’s lives.

butions are shouted out so loud,

Some individuals have started to see those efforts with a certain cyni-

that it really makes you wonder if

cism; they know how powerful fashion houses can be, and somehow in

the goal is actually helping, rather

the fashion industry only some brand names are seen without a certain

than being a mere publicity stunt.

suspicion. These brands are the ones that are socially responsible busi-

Many businesses consider they

nesses in everything they do; they embrace specific causes, but most

have a duty to “give back” to

importantly, their collective awareness spreads over most of the activ-

the community; while others do

ities they perform. The core values of a company MUST have this social

Controversial Campaign in Edmonton

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

consciousness impregnated in its

argue that the money used on

DNA. Anyhow, no matter the in-

awareness is a waste and should

volvement of a brand in societal

all go to research. No matter the

issues it will remain a business with

cause, someone always finds in-

the goal of generating profits,

consistencies and that could be

and as such, efforts that they seek

intimidating for brands already

should be in the frame of a win-

well positioned.

win situation.

Others like Mass Market mo-

The strategies for social respon-

guls (at least most of them) know

sibility differ very much according

that they already have a not so

to the market segment a brand

“clean” reputation in terms of

belongs to.

production, and may learn that

The strategies for social respon-

money

unnecessary consumption. One

sibility differ very much according

needed to restore their image is

of her famous quotes is: “What I’m

to each brand, but especially ac-

worth every penny. Consequently

always trying to say to the con-

cording to the market segment

they are not reluctant to squeeze

sumer is: buy less, choose well,

they are in. Mass Market compa-

every cent out of it as well; they

make it last”. However she doesn’t

nies tend to publicize as much as

yell every little initiative they do to

stop there: one of her most recent

they can their efforts, while luxury

the point that at times the adver-

window displays in Milan represent

and premium brands tend to be

tising costs more than the aid they

violence against women, one

more discreet. Some brands are

are actually giving.

of three women are involved in

doubtful when it comes to scream

the

compromise

Personal

and

Fashion PLM Collaboration

points

domestic violence, so one out of

social awareness, because some

of views have been expressed

political

three mannequins is bruised sym-

standpoints can have political

through clothes since forever.

bolizing this type of abuse. Vivi-

and negative business aftermaths;

Fashion is a business, there is

enne Westwood‘s causes have

even trying to be involved in a

no doubt about it, but it is more

changed and evolved over the

good cause can trigger opposi-

than that, it is a way of non-ver-

years, but what is impregnated

tion and controversy to surface,

bal communication on many lev-

all over the brand is that fashion

and a company’s lifetime reputa-

els. Personalities are expressed

can be a substantial and persua-

tion can suffer. A clear example of

through fashion, personal and po-

sive form of communication. Peo-

this, is how much criticism has the

litical points of views have been

ple believe in the brand because

pink ribbon (breast cancer aware-

expressed through clothes since

its origins have always been a

ness ribbon) has had; many have

forever. Vivienne Westwood has

demonstration of more than fash-

disapprove of the usage of a po-

always been politically and so-

ion; its roots have always been

tentially deadly condition for mar-

cially involved, she and her brand

about fashion with a statement.

keting purposes, and some others

have strong statements against

Social responsibility can be displayed from the point of view of the brand as well as from the side of the consumer. As such, brands and corporations, which are socially aware can step up their work and raise their effectiveness by inviting the society at large and leading by example. Which strategy is best? It is hard to choose a side so loosely. But I can talk about a brand that in my opinion has been doing things just right, and that is Kenneth Cole. Since 1985, Kenneth

Vivienne Westwood Window in Milan

Cole has been openly involved in

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

supporting AIDS acceptance and research. If you try to contextualize supporting AIDS in the 80s, one can realize that it is in fact a very strong and bold political stand, which the American label was not afraid to undergo. But the brand doesn’t stop there, considering that one of Kenneth Cole ’s core values is the use of fashion to promote various social issues. After 25 Think Negative by Kenneth Cole

years of addressing meaningful social concerns, the bridge brand

focused on a food rescue pro-

perspective, US Vogue magazine

established the Awareness Fund,

gram. This donation was made just

has had the power of reaching

which is a non-profit initiative that

before Thanksgiving Day to give

not only a huge audience, but

operates with partners, collabora-

the opportunity to relief hunger for

world-renown designers, celebri-

tions, products, and events. It also

the people in need.

ties and big brands such as Lan-

promotes on its own blog, posts to

On the other hand of the equa-

vin, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander

acclaim, inspire, persuade, and

tion, the Mass Market brand H&M

McQueen, Carolina Herrera and

empower social activities, volun-

is trying to show a cleaner image

Jean Paul Gaultier among many

teerism and social transformation.

in many ways, exposing its public

others, to come together for great

100% of the net profits of the prod-

to a more ethical and eco-friend-

causes and fund raisers such as

ucts marked with the initiative’s

ly fashion, with movements like the

the one they organized at the

angora boycott and sustaina-

end of November 2013. The simple

ble collections. However, a

idea of collectable masks helped

conflicting image to those ini-

to raise a lot of money and funds

tiatives is the constant sweat-

for charitybuzz.com.

« Social responsibility can be displayed from the point of view of the brand as well as from the side of the consumer »

shop scandals also related to

As a final word, the industry is

this label. Cambodian workers

moving

recently went into a hunger

es and higher sensibility and

strike to pressure H&M and Wal-

consciousness.

towards

bigger

caus-

mart for more reasonable wag-

Some companies scream out

es, and the scandal continued

loud the help they give, others

with Cambodian authorities

help without even mentioning it,

detaining and enforcing vio-

and some say it enough so peo-

lence on the workers. Many

ple and other companies get in-

brands including H&M wrote

volved and multiply their efforts

an open letter to the Cambo-

without them being the central

dian government to reject the

character on the spotlight.

violence. Although H&M has

Fashion is an industry that is re-

been making efforts in order to

peatedly being accused of being

change their image, the brand

superfluous, but due to its influ-

is still not credible in the eyes of

ence and notoriety, they should

tag go directly to their Awareness

many, considering that those eth-

and some do, take the opportu-

Fund. These efforts in fact helped

ical issues haven’t been part of

nity of contributing in making the

Kenneth Cole support many caus-

their core values since the begin-

world a better place from their

es. Last holidays, the brand and its

ning. H&M has still a long journey

standpoint. Most importantly, the

associates contributed with 7500

ahead for its ethical and sustain-

power and impact that this indus-

meals and 600 pounds of food to

able attempts to look real rather

try has on people is the non-verbal

City Harvest; which is, a non-prof-

than a marketing stunt.

communication that can actually

it New York based foundation,

Also

looking

the

media

make a huge difference•

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Is there a Human Side of Fashion? Author: Beatrice Abillama and Zoe Bordelon

The fashion world, with all its glitz and glamour, sometimes diverges attention from the origins of the production of our garments and summarizes our experience to the moment when we crave the piece and buy it. As purchasers most of us are constantly caught up in the fast pace of trend adoption and in our

fact a mutual relationship between the offerings of the industry and our demands as purchasers. But the real issue is at whose expense does this reality fall upon? Looking at this formula from afar one can see that the fashion industry is generating more profits most notably the fast fashion industry, and on the other hand customers are acquiring more for a fraction of the price compared to big labels. As convenient as this might be the reality is darker and much bitter. People all around the world still work for the fashion industry in detrimental environments. Sweat shops, as this article is being written, are still operating all around the world leaving millions in unthinkable suffering for wages that cannot suffice an average person in the western world for a single day. People around the world still work for the fashion industry in detrimental environments.

consumerist impulsive buying. We

In a report from the institute of global labour and human rights, pun-

have become an exigent society

ishments and beating of workers is still common practice. Morium Be-

with very high demands and the

gumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart breaking story is one of thousands similar stories that remain

fashion industry in its turn has also

unheard of. She lost her baby during her pregnancy after being forced

become very highly effective in

to work more than 100 hours per week despite her sickness and preg-

meeting those purchasing urges.

nancy. Other women were fired as soon as they showed signs of preg-

Therefore, we can say that it is in

nancy without being compensated for their work in the factory. And still

Morium Begum a Surviver from Bangladesh

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

international brands continue to

forcing multinational brands “to

higher salaries, shorter working

source their garments from such

pledge to work to improve safe-

hours and safe working environ-

industries. Those brutal working

ty in the country’s booming but

ments are criterion, which need to

hours and miserable conditions

poorly

in-

be met if we want to prevent such

are matched by even worse wag-

dustry” just as stated in New York

incidents to occur or at least… if

es. Reports state that most of the

Times .

we want to be more human.

regulated

garment

workers have no money left for

At least 1,129 people died in this

Therefore, even if we all seek

food by the time they reach the

incident as labor conditions were

to pay the lowest price possible

beginning of the third week of the

poorly respected more like not at

for the clothes we buy, should

month. Yet when we see a bar-

all. Some world-known compa-

we not pay a bit more and allow

gain at a fast fashion retailer store

nies such as Walmart, the fashion

workers in developing countries to

with low prices we are tempted

group Inditex (which owns Zara)

have safer working conditions? Or

and happy to purchase ignoring

and Primark were outsourcing

maybe, the fast-fashion industry

directly or in-

should educate their customers

directly in this

and raise awareness on the daily

factory, clos-

life of workers in Bangladesh – or

ing their eyes

elsewhere in the world.

« Companies need to assure workers, in the country where they are outsourcing »

on the harsh

One question stands– why would

working con-

companies such as H&M, Primark

ditions people

or Zara change their politics con-

had to work

cerning working rights in develop-

in.

ing countries?

And even if brands

have

It is simple: for their brand awareness.

financially

The

building’s

collapse

had

helped some

a strong negative impact on

the tremendous pain and sacrific-

workers and their families after

brands, which were affiliated to

es some workers have to endure

the catastrophe, it only had a

this tragedy. Therefore, clients

for the sake of our momentary

short-term consequence. Indeed,

who have the choice between

pleasures. Sweatshops extend their cruelty also to violate child labour laws. Children from as young as 9 are subject of abuse and long working hours which leave them with severe illnesses and exhaustion at such a young age. The event which shed light on this phenomenon is the building’s collapse which was housing several clothing factories in Bangladesh on April, 24. 2013. These factories were producing clothes for European and American consumers, at a very low price. It happened only a few months after another similar incident. Indeed, a terrible fire at a clothing facility occurred,

Women in Sweatshops

Julfikar Ali Manik and Jim Yardley (April,2013). Building Collapse in Bangladesh Leaves Scores Dead. Retrieved February, 14 from: http://www.nytimes.com/

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

H&M and another brand, which

Secondly, companies need to

Furthermore, this is only one ex-

was not involved in such events,

sign agreements with local gov-

ample of a huge list of disparities

will not hesitate long.

ernments in order to ensure a le-

and inequalities which are occur-

gal framework for workers.

ring all over the world in fashion:

The population is getting more and more sensitive to sustainable

Finally, companies should think

modern slavery (working in ex-

development, equality, environ-

of implementing a development

change of almost no salary and

mental issues as well as respecting

program in the poorest countries.

during 18 hours or more), dispari-

human rights.

This will not only help companies

ties in salaries between men and

on their perceived image but also

women as well as the percentage

What should companies do?

the local population: workers, their

of women in company boards,

Producing in Western countries is

families, the village, the region…

factories which are polluting the

impossible for fast-fashion brands

Nevertheless, in order for fash-

environment, psychological and

as it would cost too much, there-

ion to be human, reforms need

physical abuse on workers and so

fore it will force the brand to raise

to be voted in many countries in

on…

the prices of the clothes. However,

order to guarantee the minimum

Fashion is a sector, which makes

other solutions can be brought up.

human rights for workers. Joined

people dream and make their

First, companies need to assure

efforts need to be done from

desires come true. But should we

workers, in the local country where

governments

internation-

dream at the expense of human

they are outsourcing – directly

al companies which will prevent

lives? And should not the glittery

or not, minimum rights: a certain

in the future any other types of

fashion industry be more respon-

number of hours per week, a safe

event as the one we witnessed in

sible regarding human lives even

environment, a wage which allow

the Rana Plaza building in Savar,

if it means raising labour costs?•

workers to live decently etc…

Bangladesh.

and

Dhaka Savar Building Collapse - Photo by Jaber Al Nahaian CC BY-SA 3.0

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

“FAT” or “UGLY”: The Boundaries between Image and Discrimination Author: Beatrice Abillama

The fashion industry has always been accused for the sort of vanity it represents.

recently been the

topic

discrimination issues in Japan.

« You are so ugly that the CEO is ashamed of your ugliness »

The standards that some brands

Rina Bovrisse

now impose to maintain a luxuri-

has had a con-

ous picture-perfect image have

siderably

surpassed the media to reach

cessful career

their own employees. It is true that

in fashion. After

the essence of fashion is to make

her graduation

people dream about a certain

from the pres-

image that they aspire, however

tigious Parsons School of Design in New York, she started her career at

how far is too far? Where do we

Chanel and then landed an opportunity to work for Prada Japan. Having

set the boundary between image

always admired Prada’s runway style, cuts and fabric she grabbed the

and discrimination?

opportunity and relocated to Tokyo. However, after having started her

A particular example stood out when

researching

this

suc-

work there, she noticed something rather alarming. As Bovrisse puts it in

specif-

her own words: “The female employees who were just spotted as old,

ic topic. The iconic and premi-

ugly, or not the type of the CEO or the human resources managers…

um Milanese brand, Prada, has

they were put into a category…they were going to be disappeared”. When she complained she was also advised to change her look. At one point she was told: “You are so ugly that the CEO is ashamed of your ugliness, so you won’t be introduced to any visitors from Milan”. Her continuous disapproval and complaints about this culture circulating in the work place led her eventually to be fired because of the “negative” energy she was injecting

into

the

workplace’s

atmosphere. Rina Rina Bovrisse has been in a four-year-long legal battle with her former employer, Prada Japan

fought

back.

She

filed

a suit against Prada Japan for

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Jes Baker is cutting retailer Abercrombie & Fitch down to size

harassment and discrimination,

such as airlines and the hospitality

societies, this giving culture must

however shockingly enough she

industry. However, firing employ-

come from within to be reflected

lost the case and the court ruled

ees solely because of their looks,

in a genuine manner.

in favor of Prada under the preju-

which do not conform, is very far

Another well-known company to

dice of the company in question

fetched and is not acceptable

be imposing such high standards

and the luxurious image it has to

anymore. Employees on the other

on hiring employees is Abercrom-

maintain. Now Prada is counter-

hand are not keeping quiet and

bie & Fitch. The latter is known

suing its ex-employee asking for

the

compensation for the damag-

channeling

es she has done to the name of

from

the fashion house by associating

power houses

it with discrimination. Brovisse has

to social me-

now referred her case to the UN

dia

hoping to find justice. Such inci-

ance, which is

dents are an eye opener of the

in its turn shift-

inside happenings of the fashion

ing

industry which go much deeper

ance towards

than the glamorous campaigns

justice.

Big

and runways usually shown to the

fashion

com-

public. Nowadays, customers are

panies are not

more than ever involved in know-

the sole entity

ing the origins of the goods they

to have pow-

purchase and the type of culture

that the company adopts. Brands

their

now are perceived through their

inflicted

can take a firm

marketing

campaigns

power

fashion

govern-

the

bal-

anymore; individu-

« Big fashion companies are not the sole entity to have power anymore; their individual employees can take a firm stand »

employees

and at the same time through their

stand. This is also quite an unease

for the extreme benchmarks im-

company culture. The “luxurious”

for them as they are now also

posed on the careful selection of

standard can be applied to any

very much concerned about their

its employees. The looks are very

qualified worker through a prop-

image and the public opinion’s

specifically detailed for both men

er dress code and look, which is

perception towards their actions.

and women. Many discrimination

acceptable to impose, as is the

Even though many of them under-

issues have rose over the past few

case of many service companies

take initiatives to pay back to their

years most notably following the

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

brand CEO’s controversial state-

complained about the brand’s

is more than enough for them to

ments. He has stated at some in-

yoga pants, which were too sheer,

be valued and targeted. Compa-

stances that his brand is catered

the CEO blamed the customers’

nies in general and fashion brands

only to thin and cool people, the

body types and stated that they

particularly are now responsible

fact that explains the absence of

were only made for “thin” women.

for every statement or action by

big sizes at the store. Therefore

Chip Wilson, which was the CEO

any of their employees. Body im-

the company’s discrimination at

and the founder of the brand,

age issues have been a reason

Abercrombie & Fitch Co. extends

had to step down from his position

for serious illnesses among young

from being merely imposed on its

or the brand would have risked to

girls such as bulimia and anorex-

own employees to being project-

be boycotted.

ia. Therefore, it is time to respond

ed on the customers themselves.

Therefore fashion brands can not

to society’s evolvement and tai-

Unfortunately for the bridge label,

get away with their discrimination

lor fashion campaigns and the

such comments cannot be but

slips anymore because of the ac-

overall industry culture towards

detrimental towards the brand’s

cessibility of fighting back through

image. Several oppositions and

social media and outlets which

standards•

online campaigns have been

allow the freedom of expression.

done following those comments

The culture of acceptance and

and the brand has certainly been

equality must be incorporated in-

affected with remarks from cus-

side the company’s values so that

tomers stating that they would

it can truly reflect on the employ-

never buy from Abercrombie &

ees’ satisfaction. An inspiration-

Fitch Co. anymore.

al image can be portrayed in a

Also, recently Lululemon Ath-

fashion brand’s campaign how-

letica Canada Inc, a Vancouver

ever the fashion industry is mov-

based retailer of yoga sportswear

ing on to the understanding that

has also been the subject of a

not all their clients are models but

media scandal after its CEO’s

they are unique and their aspira-

comments.

tion towards the brand’s image

When

customers

accepting

and

realistic

Lululemon Pants

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

All Men Are Equal Before... Fashion Author: Ghina Maalouf

The business of fashion today has grown so complex, that it overstepped and went beyond its boundaries, merging with other types of sectors: Digital, Technological, Real Estate, and Social Studies... In particular, the new “marriage between Fashion & Technology”

has lead to a whole new definition of what qualifies as “fashion” and what on other hand qualifies as “luxury”. There have been a lot of researches and definitions for these two specific terms, however in our digital world the cards have been reshuffled and the lines have gone blurred. It has become so difficult to classify a brand based on its market segment; what criteria should we base our judgment upon: Its core business? Its category extensions? Its collaborations? The fact whether it is addressed to all type of consumers or solely to a “happy few”? But then if we consider the latter, aren’t all brands engaging with everyone online? From the NYC golden boys to the aspiring Nigerian teenagers, isn’t everybody getting access to fashion after all? This is what is happening now, but what does the future hold? With social

Any old clothes will do for Salvation Army

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

media taking over every aspect

a authority in fashion, where its

enabling them to become part of

of our lives and making “fashion”

leaders are bloggers and influ-

them.

even “luxury” so available for the

encers (e.g. The Sartorialist, TMR,

Luxury brands that are still asking

“people”, can we still talk about

The Blonde Salad etc...) instead of

the question: Do you think “real”

a “Democratization of fashion” vs.

designers and Maisons.

luxury brands should be present

“True luxury”? That debate will be

Moreover and much more im-

on social media? are not going to

long over leaving center stage for

portantly, with social media the

know what will hit them, since they

the “Totalitarianism of Social Me-

distinction between public and

are not even living in the present,

dia” in fashion.

private life has fallen. We now

let alone the future. Despite their

know

every

heritage and know-how, with this

de-

attitude they will become obso-

lete and their sales will suffer. The

brand’s, signer’s

« Just like totalitarianism in a nation, social media has become such a authority in fashion »

fashion icon’s

incompatibility

move before

and the digital world is long over.

they even do

Even prestigious brands like Her-

between

luxury

live

mès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and

streaming

Dior have succumbed to open-

(e.g.

catwalk

ing e-stores, accounts on various

shows, behind

social media platforms and em-

the

scenes

brace technology, however most

sneak

peeks,

of these brands do not have a

Making Of vid-

clear social media strategy, and

eos etc...).

instead of exploiting the magic of the

it, they fear overexposure and di-

media

lution of their brand’s equity, end-

also took its le-

ing up using social media badly.

gitimacy from

A positive attitude would be to in-

the

Finally, social

people.

deed fear dilution of their brand’s

It came from

identity but prevent it by hiring

the

people,

the right consultants and experts

What is the “Totalitarianism of So-

talking about the people, to be

in social media intelligence, to

cial Media” in fashion? The coin-

shared by them and bring people

manage their digital accounts,

ing of the term here, is inspired by

closer together.

get them the right insights and

the “totalitarian regimes” in politi-

It goes beyond the concept of

help them do the right market-

cal studies but it is based only on

Democratization of Fashion, in a

ing decisions, thus succeeding

its strict technical definition rath-

way that is not only bringing Fash-

in preserving their “unique” and

er than its negative connotation.

ion and Luxury closer to all, and

“distinguished” standing. Where

Just like Totalitarianism in a nation,

liberating them from the exclu-

as outside the digital world, they

social media has become such

sive privileged circles but it is also

should focus more on keeping the

Front Row at Mulberry S/S 2014

Front Row Fashion Bloggers

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Brands Collage

only used in total 15 times by the brand, hence having repercussions on its brand awareness, making its audience decline to a 13,15% and we are talking here about the most important critical shopping period of the year, just 10 days before Christmas!. A good idea is worthless without proper execution. The luxury of the future is one based on story telling and experiences and being able to share these experiences. Social Media

Here is one type of “totalitarianism” that can truly be a win-win

incomparable quality of their core

used, the brand can measure fast

situation for all, the customer can

business exponentially higher and

and accurately the impact of its

become an active agent in the

forget about launching new cat-

campaign on customers, antici-

production and purchase pro-

egory extensions, while keeping

pating volumes of sales.

cess, more than that, s/he can

on exceeding the expectations of their clients.

In the case of Louis Vuitton, its

become a fashion creator with

Twitter reports show a decrease

the various fashion tech availa-

A clear example of social me-

in its general activity of 50% this

ble today (editor/stylist with blog-

dia’s magical multiplier is market-

past week compared to previous

ging, photographer via Instagram

ing KPI provided by Fashionbi’s so-

period. Despite its ingenious The

and Tumblr, director via Vines and

cial media reports. By calculating

Goose Game special holidays

founder and CEO with start-ups)

mentions that the brand gathered

online campaign on its website,

while the brands, no matter how

over the net for a specific period

the brand failed to even create

“luxurious” they are, can”smartly”

of time or tracking how many

a hashtag for it (0 use), and even

engage with their clients in an un-

times its designated hashtag was

for the #holiday(s) hashtag it was

precedented way•

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

Corporate Social Responsibility: A Shift from Short Term Marketing Campaigns to Long Term Integration in the Fashion Business Model Author: Beatrice Abillama

The fashion industry is no exception to the ethical implications, which the current world imposes.

According to a study done by Accenture global 93% of the 766 interviewed companies stated that corporate social responsibility is critical to their future success. Moreover, in a report by China Luxury Forecast, there is a strong correlation between a company’s CSR policy and their

Fashion is a staggering US$ 1.5

consumers desire to buy the product. Therefore sustainability and paying

trillion industry, which employs mil-

back to society is not an option anymore but more of a critical success

lions of people and accounts for a

factor. Efforts in this direction are resulting in comprehensive advantages

big share out of the global econ-

on many levels. On one hand, the sustainability image that a company

omy. But as every other industry

adopts creates positive attributions to the overall brand image and ren-

with such immense proportion, the

ders the product purchased somehow “Guilt free”: A study by the repu-

ethical issues related to it are also

tation institute studies how 60% of the products we buy are based on the

as complex and vast.

brand’s perception and not on the actual product. On the other hand,

With the rise of environmental concerns and human rights activists, the fashion industry is always placed under the spotlight as a persecutor rather than a contributor to tackling those concerns. Ethical initiatives in the fashion industry have always been coupled by a certain skepticism. Is it a desperate marketing attempt to prove a company’s involvement in societal issues or is it an honest action by the company to truly make a difference? When it comes to “eco-friendly”, “sustainable”, and “corporate social responsibility”, the trend is definitely steady. But the controversy lies in whether those terms will remain a trend or will they be the new norm of implementation in a fashion company’s operations.

We are Trying to Be Nice

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

the current world is truly in need of

will deeply affect the way it works.

this sort of CSR campaign create

initiatives by big groups because

From Boucheron’s gold and dia-

more interest relative to Gucci’s

we are reaching a threshold be-

monds to Bottega Veneta’s leath-

Facebook followers?

yond which the environment can-

er, the group will

not sustain the irreversible dam-

make

sure

age, which we are provoking.

their

operations

To make the story short: corpo-

are

line

that with

rate social responsibility initiatives

their plan of cor-

are not anymore solely based

porate social re-

on short-term campaigns but are

sponsibility. When

more of an overall philosophy,

such

dedication

which fashion corporations are

and

involvement

integrating.

Let us explore how 2 of the world’s

biggest

conglomerates

are operating in this direction.

the

group’s

present,

part

short-term marketing

campaigns,

Kering Group, with a portfolio of

which include an

brands including Gucci, Bottega

ethical facet are

Veneta, and Balenciaga are pro-

now more credible

jecting long-term efforts towards

and reliable. Even

environmental

though they incur

sustainability

for

« Social responsibilities are an overall philosophy »

instance. This luxury corporation

more than altruistic benefits, the

Fashionbi’s continuous stream-

has created a committee of ex-

company’s additional profits are

ing and quantification of such val-

perts as part of a five-year plan

backed up by genuine overall

uable data provides us a clearer

to be able to measure the envi-

efforts.

picture: the period chosen to

ronmental footprint across their entire supply chain, through that,

The case of Gucci’s Campaign: “Chime for Change”.

analyses the data is from the 1st of March until the 1st of April 2013.

the group is also able to do an ap-

Let us take for example the

The reasons behind this specific

proximate valuation of this foot-

on-going campaign of Gucci

chosen interval is that Chime for

print and the manner in which it

“Chime for Change”. It is a cam-

change was launched on the 1st

affects the world. In this case the

paign with the goal of empow-

of March 2013. During an interval

implementation of such actions is

ering women and girls in-need,

of 1 month, several peaks in cus-

deeply rooted in the company’s

through

education,

tomers’ feedback and opinions

culture and work of action and it

health, and overall justice. Does

are witnessed. But are they linked

better

Impact

Actions

Gucci’s Facebook Activity

*Period: from March 1 to April 1 of 2013

Data: Fashionbi Gucci Facebook Report

Users Activity: Users activity Indicates the number of official Retweets, Replies and Mentions done by a brand’s followers at a given period.

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

posts

“Chime

Change”?

also launched a

for

CSR

campaign,

Well,

which is without

the result is quite

any doubt small-

surprising.

er than that of

When

this initiative was

Gucci’s

first

for change”, to

introduced

and

posted

promote the in-

volvement of the

increase

youth in art. A 3

activity1

year plan project

Facebook, gradual of

user

was

“Chime

witnessed

has been estab-

until it reached its

lished and por-

peak

trayed

March

through

4th. However, af-

ter this peak the

website

rest of the highest

displays the lat-

followers’

est

inter-

dedicated which

events

actions with the

the world of art.

brand have been

Adding to that a

posts,

which

Beyonce’s Chime for Change Concert

are not related to

special section of the website gives

the above, mentioned CSR cam-

image and yields results in the

the opportunity for young peo-

paign. The highest peak actually

future.

ple involved in art to display their

witnessed during this month was

LVMH Moet Henessey is anoth-

works and receive feedback from

on March 14th and it was enti-

er conglomerate, which is inter-

professionals in the field. Such an

tled Ray of Lights and featured

esting to monitor relative to its

initiative by Louis Vuitton although

yellow Items from Gucci’s spring’s

corporate

responsibility

on a smaller scale promotes the

collection.

policies. The group issues yearly

company’s CSR and is also in line

social

Even a post on March 27 about

a hefty report, which summariz-

with the artistic appeal, which the

the concert for this specific cam-

es the initiatives taken by LVMH

brand has.

paign entitled “Sound of Change”

Moet Henessey to contribute to

Hence, to put things in perspec-

featuring Beyoncé had a relative-

the community. What is note-

tive, being socially responsible

ly low reaction. This reality makes

worthy is the dedication of spe-

is not an option anymore, but a

us rethink the impact of CSR initia-

cific departments in each of the

norm that companies must follow

tives. Maybe we have reached a

sub brands to the monitoring of

and abide by.

point were customers appreciate

each action taken and weighing

It is a long journey that compa-

those initiatives and are appealed

it against its environmental im-

nies are dedicated to and short-

to companies which perform such

pact. Out of the 44 goals set by

term marketing campaigns are

activities. However, when it comes

LVMH Moet Henessey for the year

not creating enough credibility if

to the things they like, the button

2012, 12 have been achieved

not coupled by a ground rooted

is ultimately hit for the product

and the rest are forecasted for

strategy that stretches throughout

introduced by the brand every

the two upcoming years or do

the entire company’s operations.

season.

not have a specific deadline.

Dedication and genuine motiva-

Therefore investing in CSR initi-

Therefore unlike Kering Group,

tion is key in this formula•

atives is a long journey of dedi-

which has a specific overall tar-

cation by the brand to ultimately

get and vision for the whole

nurture its image and give value

company, LVMH Moet Henessey

to the product. As a result, the

divides its goals into smaller tar-

overall CSR campaign is project-

gets, which are divided across its

ed towards the long-term brand

various brands. Louis Vuitton has

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

The Stella Mc Cartney’s “White Ribbon” Social Media Campaign to Stop Violence Against Women Author: Beatrice Abillama and Marivi Avalos Monárrez

Another campaign with a similar cause to analyze is Stella McCartney’s White Ribbon to Stop Violence Against Women. It is an important topic, which

from domestic violence every three days in Britain and Germany, and that is just dealing with “developed” parts of the world (Maalouf, 2013)1. According to the national survey in India, 8% of married women have been subject to sexual violence, such as forced sex, 31% of them have been also physically abused in a ‘less severe’ manner, such as slapping or punching, while 10% have suffered ‘severe domestic violence’, such as burning or being attacked with a weapon.

should be given attention con-

This cause, considering its importance, has been supported by French

sidering the wide implications it

conglomerate, Kering’s Corporate Foundation, which includes on its

has on societies worldwide. In

board, designer Stella McCartney.

1991, the White Ribbon was cre-

The British designer took part in a digital campaign using the online plat-

ated to be used as a symbol for

form, Twibbon.com, through a badge that was shared with 15 million

a campaign targeted at stop-

people on the web, according to WWD.

ping violence against women.

Over the course of 2013, the designer and the fashion conglomerate

On November 25 of the same

continued on exerting efforts to support the cause, but this time with a

year, was also

campaign to bring awareness in

a designation

an OTO (offline-to-online) modality.

for an Inter-

This past November, the initiative was

national Day

promoted via Stella Mc Cartney’s

support

Twitter and Facebook accounts and

this

specific

supported by other brands from the

cause.

parent company like Gucci and the

Bringing

@KeringforWomen Twitter accounts.

awareness

In addition to the online initiatives,

top-

McCartney created for this occa-

ic is crucial

sion a limited-edition white ribbon

considering

badge to be given out to customers

the

shock-

who made a purchase in one of the

ing

statistics

flagship stores of the Kering group

this

related to it. Around

woman dies

premium brands all over Europe. The echoes of the White Ribbon

one White Ribbon badge designed by Stella M-Cartney for the Kering Foundation

Maalouf, Ghina (November,2013). A White Ribbon Badge by Stella Mc Cartney. Retrieved February , 2014 from fashionbi.com

Campaign in Social Media.

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

Considering the substantial investments and the large scale of the campaign, we were inter-

How did the Hashtags perform during the Initiative’s Social Media Campaign?

tweet related to this specific initiative but also without the usage of the specific related hashtags.

ested in knowing by numbers the

As previously mentioned, two

Hence, the campaign could

echoes of those efforts on social

major hashtags were promot-

have been improved with simple

media to be able to understand

ed during this campaign: #VAW

actions if the brand would have

if they were successful or not. This

(violence against women) and

been more involved in promoting

was made possible thanks to the

#WR4W (white ribbon for wom-

the hashtags. Moreover, Kering

business intelligence reports at

en). The Fashionbi Twitter report

group as a whole along with its

Fashionbi, through which we were

for the Stella Mc Cartney brand

other brand names could have

able to track the social media ac-

shows that #WR4W was more suc-

been more active in promoting

tivity for this campaign, especially

cessful.Although it was only

in terms of the use of the specifi-

used 4 times by the brands,

cally tailored hashtags via Twitter:

users embraced the initia-

#VAW (violence against women)

tive and used the hashtag

and #WR4W (white ribbon for

698 times during the period.

women).

As for #VAW, it was used

With a timeframe stretching from

by Stella Mc Cartney only

November 18th until December

once while users include it

18th and an overall comprehen-

in their tweets 225 times.

sive view, the Fashionbi Twitter Re-

These figures and findings

port for Stella Mc Cartney shows

suggest that even though

that out of 44 tweets during the

the brand did not exert

above mentioned period only 10

many efforts to promote

were done by the brand in order

the hashtags specifically

to promote the campaign. Out

conceived for this cam-

of those 10 tweets, the follow-

paign, their usage was rel-

ers reacted by re-tweeting 566

atively high which proved

times and a shy 19 replies were

an engagement on the

reported.

audience’s part. However,

Only 31% of the Re-Tweets from

Stella Mc Cartney Instagram Best Activity

on the other hand, we must

users’ activity during the analyz-

also consider the fact that to be

the conglomerate as a socially re-

ed period came from the White

able to obtain the badge by Stel-

sponsible company. It could have

Ribbon Campaign, while Replies

la McCartney through Twibbon,

used not only its retail outlets but

from the users’ activity were even

the below message must have

also the online space to better

lower by 63% out of the total peri-

been tweeted: “Raise awareness

emphasize upon the actions it has

od of activity.

on #VAW & share the #WR4W

been working on. Simple activities

badge designed by @StellaMc-

such as stressing on hashtags and

celebrities or influencers support-

Cartney

involving more tweets could have

ing the cause by re-tweeting the

http://twb.ly/SZn2UA”.

Another important finding is that

w/@KeringForWomen!

been enough to give the public

brand’s promotion only includ-

Therefore the usage of the spe-

a higher awareness. However, we

ed three important accounts:

cific hashtags for the campaign

should also note the right move

Hollywood celebrity @LivTyler ,

was not spontaneous but rather in

that the brand has taken by in-

the account from Vogue Bra-

someway directed by the brand

volving celebrities in adopting its

zil

itself. Also looking at another

hashtags and tweeting on behalf

@VogueBRoficial

and

pho-

blogger,

brand in the Kering Group port-

of the campaign which could also

stylist and former model Han-

folio, which was supporting the

explain the high number of us-

neli

tographer,

fashion

campaign such as Gucci, the ac-

age of the specific hashtags and

not

tions related to the tweets for the

tweets compared to the low fre-

least British singer Adele through

white ribbon were very minimal.

quency of the actual company’s

@OfficialAdele Twitter account.

Fashionbi reports show only one

actions.

Mustaparta

@HanneliM

and

from last

Norway but

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

Stella Mc Cartney’s Twitter Report Total Tweets from Stella Mc Cartney

Top Brand Hashtags

Tweets

VAW Christmas

566

Replies

BFA NYC

Total Tweets from White Ribbon Campaign

lookoftheday

Tweets

streetstyle fashion

3002

Re-Tweets

698 225 135 97 81 69 67 62 57 52

WR4W

1816

Re-Tweets

BTS

Replies

Top Users Hashtags

Falabella

WR4W NYC Christmas BTS StellaMcCartney watchnow VAW WorldAIDSDay danceRED BFA

5 4 4 2 2 1 1 1 1 1

Data: Fashionbi Stella Mc cartney Twitter Report

Stella Mc Cartney’s Instagram Report Best 5 Activities per Impact

10340

9339

8511

7443

7251

Data: Fashionbi Stella Mc cartney Facebook Report

Stella Mc Cartney’s Facebook Report Brand’s Followers

Brand’s Fans Total Facebook Fans Facebook Active Fans Average in the Period*

478906 5213

Total Twitter Followers Twitter Active Followers Average in the Period*

Best Photos per Impact

1491

1252

646423 55.23

Worst Photos per Impact

1210

Data: Fashionbi Stella Mc cartney Facebook Report

*Period: from 18th of November 2013 to 18th of December 2013

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

ONLINE BRAND PERFORMANCE

To have a clearer overview of the social media performance

was ranked in second position for

relative hash tags associated to

the worst 5 photos per impact.

them is a primordial activity, which

of the White Ribbon Campaign,

is not present most of the time in

Was the purpose of creating awareness about Violence Against Women in the world achieved?

luxury brands campaigns. Such

gram report the results show that

IIf we look at the total number of

not shedding the light on charita-

the campaign was well received

people following the British label

ble actions because it may affect

by the brand’s followers, gaining

on its social media networks, then

the luxury image, which defines

the two best positions in the rank

we have to say that the results are

them. They would rather prefer to

for the Best 5 Activities per Impact,

very disappointing. And if we add

focus on their products and herit-

which is a section from the report

the fact that other brands from

age that will probably drive more

that shows the actions the brand’s

Kering where also supporting the

sales than the focus on corporate

followers engaged the most with,

cause, such as Gucci then the po-

social responsibility campaigns.

through likes and comments, over

tential audience that could have

Therefore considering the impor-

the selected period, in this case

been reached would have been

tance of such a subject currently

from November 18th to Decem-

even higher.

in the world’s conglomerates and

it is also a must to explore other platforms such as Instagram and Facebook. For Stella Mc Cartney’s Insta-

ber 18th.

analysis can lead us to conclude a possible reason behind this fact. Perhaps brands are intentionally

It is also important to note that

fashion brands are definitely in-

in addition to this campaign, Ker-

volved however their focus is not

http://twitter.com/

ing Corporate Foundation has

to be associated to such initiatives

OfficialAdele account and the

a special account on Twitter @

even though they are involved

second was an image from the

KeringforWomen whose aim is to

in them. Concerned customers,

designer wearing the limited-edi-

combat violence against women

who would like to see if their fa-

tion ribbon. There is a particular in-

in three main areas in the world:

vorite brands are paying back to

sight in the brand’s Fashionbi Twit-

Americas, Western Europe and

society, will be able to find such

ter report and that is the fact that

Asia.

information through a simple re-

The number 1 post was a regram

from

the use for the official hashtags

The purpose behind this account

search. However, the public and

wasn’t successful at all, because

is to communicate official data

specifically a brand’s fans are

it didn’t make it to the Top 10 Us-

about

Foun-

much more likely to know about

ers Hashtags during the analyzed

dation campaigns and results.

a celebrity collaboration and the

period.

However it is rather alarming to

new face of a certain label rather

see that until January 6, 2014 the

than the specificities of a certain

How the campaign did it on Facebook?

account has only 1,700 followers.

socially

And the rhythm for communica-

Another side of the analysis also

the

Corporation

responsible

campaign.

Fashionbi’s facebook analysis re-

tion is very slow, the last post be-

can be that even though paying

port for Stella Mc Cartney shows

ing on January 3, 2014, while the

back to society and the environ-

that posts related to the cam-

last Tweet related to their cam-

ment is crucial and important or

paign appeared in both sections:

paigns and initiative was done on

less interest to the public in gener-

Best and Worst 5 photos per Im-

December 10, 2013.

al than the actual product.

pact. This section demonstrates

As a conclusion, there is no

It is important for fashion labels

the photos in which the brand’s

doubt that fashion companies are

to understand that after all, every

fans engaged the most and the

involved in corporate social re-

campaign would it be a product

less with, through likes and com-

sponsibility and are working on in-

launch, a corporate social respon-

ments, over the selected period.

itiatives, which are on a big level.

sibility initiative, or news about the

The same picture as the one

However, it is more than intriguing

brand must be coupled with the

published on Instagram where de-

that social media outlets which

appropriate exposure. Consisten-

signer Stella Mc Cartney is wear-

need

than

cy is crucial for the image of the

ing the limited-edition ribbon got

monetary investments are not be-

brand to be coherent no matter

ranked number two, while a pic-

ing paid attention to. Publishing

the subject•

ture from the ribbon as an item

tweets and posts as well as the

dedication

rather

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

Women On Top? Author: Ghina Maalouf

Interview with ELLE Middle East Owner and Director of Edition Mrs. Désirée Sadek and ELLE Arab World Editor In Chief Ms. Maria Aziz When one thinks of the Fashion industry, an array of feminine fac-

ones dictating female beauty standards without even being one! It cannot be denied that active women have come a long way, that indeed positions occupied by them are increasing but still there is a lot to be done to reach real equality among genders in the workplace, even in fashion!

es come into mind: Coco Chanel,

Yet, there is hope coming towards

Mme Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli,

us all the way from ELLE’s head-

Diana Vreeland, Anna Wintour…

quarters in the Middle East, com-

However behind these names

pletely run by an independent

are hidden men like Charles

publication owned by Mrs. De-

Townsend, head of Condé Nast

sirée Sadek and managed by

(yes Anna Wintour has a boss!),

Ms. Maria Aziz. Here is what they

Frank A Bennack Jr head of

had to say about being a lead-

Hearst Corp., parent company

er, a women leader (although

of Elle Magazine or Michael J.

Sadek does not like to be called

Dolan head of IMG, the producer

one) in the Middle East and the

of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

world. [The interview with Mrs. Sadek

tion: Do women really run the

was translated from French to Eng-

fashion world?

lish as for Ms. Aziz’s part, it is in English.]

women are occupying leading positions such as CEOs or presidents, but the truth of the matter is that there is a “glass ceiling”: the

r ne w O st Ea

There are a few examples (15 out of 94 names to be exact1) where

le idd EM ELL

Which makes one beg the ques-

It is said that leaders working in the fashion industry must operate in an ex- and Di re ct treme volatile scenario. Do you agree? or of Ed How does that affect the way you lead? itio

nM rs.D ésir ée S ade k become

-D.S.: It is very important to be always in motion; after

money and the real power are still

all we are working in fashion! And fashion will not

in male hands and this comes a

obsolete as long as we are talking about a certain standard of quality.

bit as unsettling since they are the

So whether we have changing trends or swiveling opinions on whether

Business Of Fashion top 500 list (September, 2013) Retrieved on February, 2014 from: http://www.businessoffashion.com/

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

today: No! Tomorrow? The day-after? … I think one should always keep walking, never stand still and always have the urge of renewing oneself, otherwise we will just end up snoozing and the magazine will suffer.

Do you think that the publishing world is still an “old boys” network? -D.S:

Certainly…

Lets

make

something clear, men will never succeed without women and vice versa. I am not with the suppression of the other, but rather with completing each other, far from the confrontational approach. It is obvious that in the Business world, we, as women are not taken seriously, specially in the Middle East. However, I am observing that it is getting more common seeing women in premium executive positions, proving how far they can go. I was among the pioneers in accomplishing that challenge but now we are more, which is super ELLE Oriental Magazine Cover December 2013

positive for us, we can’t complain since it shows that we are on the

or not this item is In, I think change

remained in the skin of the read-

right track, however that track is a

is perfect. It allows us to transform

er of my magazine. It is vital for

long one.

while staying true to ourselves. So

someone working in journalism or

when it comes down to it, this vol-

publication to stay in tune with

atility is a way of life prominent in

his/her audience… Always be the

all industries. And with the current

reader you are writing for.

On daily basis you are still primarily focused on the Middle East. How closely do you-as the owner of ELLE in the Arab world- feel you have to be in touch with what is happening in Europe or the rest of the world?

major innovation of social me-

Naturally, I had to climb those

dia, we should embrace change

famous professional “steps” one

and take it as an element that

by one. I started as a journalist in

spices things up for us. So social

France, and then gradually I was

media, why not? I am all for an

taken by the desire to bring my

Omni-channel business with a 360

expertise back home with me.

-D.S: I do not focus all of my at-

approach.

That is when I was approached to

tention on one region exclusively.

take on ELLE in the Middle East.

As I mentioned earlier, I operate

How did you get to where you are right now?

ELLE is the greatest title one

through a 360 canon. The Orient

could land and being able to do

and the West are in a perpetual

-D.S: I do not know who I am

so in three different editions, it was

dialogue whether it is in fashion,

today. (Laughs) That is one BIG

a dream, a challenge, a constant

culture… That is exactly what

question!

bee in my bonnet that makes me

pushed me to want to tackle ELLE

But maybe what got me here

question myself on a regular ba-

as a project. They are comple-

today is due to the fact that I

sis. So getting to one’s destination

mentary! When attending fashion

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

shows, I do pick up on the various

on opposing pages coming along

for me, the fact that ELLE Middle

respective mutual inspirations be-

and ending up expressing a mes-

East had been coveted by so

tween the two. We cannot keep

sage. I like to talk about simple

many big groups over the past 30

dividing things with a big wall; I do

things simply.

years and that at the end it has

not want to be caught up in the

It is all these factors, specially

been proven that I deserved to

middle of two separate worlds,

my love of photography, fashion,

have it… This is how I overcame it,

it would be disastrous, I am on a

deco and social issues, which led

by the fact, that I was the chosen

bridge between two horizons.

me to craft such a smart women’s

one who could give ELLE its true

magazine.

worth in the region, and that is a

However, I do love to put forward our local emerging design-

daily challenge I meet, that I carry

-D.S: One of the most prominent

What myths about the advancement of women/challenges did you encounter along the way in a male-dominated industry? And more importantly how have you overcome them?

factors is that I always knew what

-D.S: From the very beginning

rut close to my heart and I insist-

I wanted; I always had an incred-

the challenge was overcoming

ed on it being the headquarters.

ible self-confidence while consist-

the people who wondered why

Despite the fact that sometimes

ently questioning it simultaneous-

would a women take over the

we never know if we will be op-

ly. What is problematic is waking

reins at ELLE Middle East, specially

erational the next day or whether

up every morning and checking

a woman who doesn’t have off-

the clients will cancel their ads…

whether we are still coherent with

shore bank accounts and real es-

The number of times we had to

our fixed objectives. Another driv-

tate lying around… Why her and

relocate to flee the bombs with

er is my passion for photography:

not another?… The question is still

our amazing team that works day

I love to see meaningful images

out there. But this has been great

and night. Other times, we are

ers, since I am here to offer them a platform.

What factors (personal or professional) fueled your career and made you successful?

around all the time.

To what extent Risk has played a role in your career? -D.S: I was asked why the choice of Beirut in opening an office? Isn’t an enormous risk? Well, I hold Bei-

ELLE Arab World Editor In Chief Ms. Maria Aziz

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

risk hand in hand, it is an essential

What advice can you give other women out there, who would love to run their own business?

part of our lives. That is important,

-D.S: I would tell them to be per-

day nothing really matters, one

in the sense that it doesn’t let us

severant; since there are a lot of

shouldn’t be vain… one day life

rest on our laurels.

ideas

everywhere

will give it to you a hundredfold

without electricity or even paper to print on. As Lebanese we take on life and

proliferating

years before. What can one do in these cases? I realized that the truth always finds its way out. At the end of

So when I am asked if I ever cal-

and once we start building on

back. Whenever you are faced

culated my P/L forecasts, I say:

them, most of the time we stop

with a problem, you just need to

What for? Anything can happen

in the middle of the process. The

calm down, give it the right time

whether it is for the best or the

most difficult thing is the commit-

to heal and what is important at

worst. So risk is permanent, but

ment to your project and to make

the end is to be coherent with

that is what gives color to life.

a clear and accurate assessment

oneself…

of where things are at, to situate,

Are there particular challenges that you face as a woman leader in Lebanon?

without over

under/ estimating,

ourselves. One has

-D.S: I don’t think of myself as a

to find a project

women leader in Lebanon. I am

that is within her/

a human being who needs to be

his

capabilities,

passing on messages not only in

that

the press, but as a mother, as a

fy with and build

citizen who is concerned about

gradually

what is happening around her in

of having a shot

this country, as an environmental-

gun

ly aware individual, fighting for sus-

tainability… I think we have to re-

or worst having a

act against anything that puts us

plain,

down, we need to act and react

project

instead of complaining and wait-

we think that this is

ing for someone else to fix it for us.

all we can achieve. I will tell it to

It was so refreshing to have had

We have to start at our own lev-

you straight from the moment that

the opportunity to meet up with

els to change things for the bet-

we can deliver children, which

such great ladies, Mrs. Sadek

ter. It is when we have reached

is really the hardest thing in this

with her resilience, wisdom and

rock bottom that we are able to

world, we are capable of doing

visionary approach and Ms. Aziz

rise again, which really makes you

just about anything.

with her fresh outlook, high pro-

identiinstead

growth

with

« Risk is permanent, but that is what gives color to life »

foundations dead-end because

wonder how do we do it? It is sim-

fessionalism and driven passion. I

A quick story where you suffered discrimination?

would like to sincerely thank both

before us, our grandparents be-

-D.S: I don’t really recall such in-

ness to share their respective ex-

fore them and that is what we will

stances but sometimes when my

periences with such humbleness

continue doing… Going through

surroundings pretend that I do not

and truth. Which pushes me to

with ELLE and all the beautiful pro-

exist or put me down that would

answer the initial question: with

jects we want to achieve in this

cause me sorrow or when some-

what these women are made of,

marvelous but difficult country,

one steals my photos and publish-

being on top is the most natural

that is the grand challenge! So for

es them elsewhere, thus denying

vocation, it is not a choice, it is a

all of you investors out there, who

all my work. Once, a book was

destiny fulfilled, that proves that

are thinking of starting a business

published on the Lebanese Ce-

even beyond the façade, they

here, you will get fear but also

dars, that was proclaimed as the

are the ones in control without an

happiness and success.

first work of its kind, whereas I had

“old man” pulling the strings for

already published mine many

their business to succeed•

ply because we were always used to count on ourselves, our parents

of them on their time and open-

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

The Other Side Of Exploitation Author: Beatrice Abillama

An eye-opener to a holistic view of the situation happening in the garment industries in Bangladesh.

an one on one talk with her to better understand the situation there and have a close-up

What some called the deadliest

view on the real

disaster in the garment industry’s

conditions of the

history was the unfortunate col-

garment factories.

lapse of the Rana Plaza in Savar,

When I started my

a sub-district in the greater Dhaka

interview with Ca-

area of the capital of Bangladesh,

terina I had a fairly

which left 1,129 killed and 2,515

hefty package of

injured. Major newspapers and

research that I had

magazines from all over the world

done for the sub-

covered the story and transmitted

ject and therefore

to the public eye the harsh real-

my prejudgement

ity that those victims were going

and opinion con-

through. In this magazine issue

cerning what hap-

about sustainability and ethical

pened was more or less already predisposed. However, what Caterina

fashion it was intuitive to dedicate

conveyed to me was a sort of an alternative view on the subject. She was

a section about this disaster and

as well happy to do the interview as an objective witness to what she saw

the impact that it has left on the

and experienced during her 2 weeks stay there.

« Our culture of buying must change into buying less but of a higher quality »

citizens of Dhaka and on the garment industry as a whole. Caterina Lunghi was one of the

How were the conditions of the factories at the time you have visited them?

journalists who visited Bangladesh

-C.L: I have had the opportunity to visit one factory at the time accom-

before the unfortunate crash hap-

panied by a missionary priest who was helping me through out the pro-

pened. She also had the opportu-

cess. He asked me to hide my camera and not to ask too many questions

nity to visit a factory on location

because visits by journalists are not very welcomed in such factories. The

there. I was very thrilled to have

premises were Canadian owned and the condition was relatively good.

Butler, Sara (May, 2013) Bangladeshi factory deaths spark action among high-street clothing chains Retrieved on February, 2014 (www.theguardian.com)

Alham Julhas and Hossain (September, 2013) Bangladesh collapse search over; death toll 1,127 Retrieved on May, 2014 (news.yahoo.com)

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

There were no scenes of workers having to sit on the floor to do their jobs or the typical preconceptions of how garment workers are treated in such facilities. However, this was only one factory so I cannot generalize this situation over the rest. But what is important for me is also to tell you that Bangladesh is one of the poorest countries in the world and that some workers in the factories did not even realize how bad their situation was until after the international media

H&M, GAP and Levi’s Shirts produced in Bangladesh

shed the light upon it. The priest,

this system, however if brands will

that if the international brands

Did you see genuine efforts done to improve the factories’ conditions for the workers?

are afraid of the “Bangladesh”

-C.L: There are factories, which

another country where the level

reputation they will relocate their

are in a good condition and oth-

of poverty is even higher and will

premises and by that thousands

ers, which are not. However it is im-

also take advantage of the situ-

of jobs will be lost. The extent of

portant to also keep in mind that

ation and the on going corrup-

poverty in Bangladesh cannot

the entire country is very messy

tion. For instance China was at

afford this loss, and another crisis

and there is corruption in every

first a very popular destination for

will be inevitable. I absolutely do

sector. Also the political situation is

brands to base their production,

not agree with labour exploita-

not stable at all, considering that

however after years of manufac-

tion and the conditions of a lot

the country is about to witness a

turing, the factories evolved and

of factories must be improved;

revolution, which can have detri-

acquired the know-how for them

however one cannot judge what

mental effects. Therefore, the gar-

to be able to produce for big

is happening as black or white

ment factories cannot be taken

brands with very high quality. That

because there are a lot of factors

as a stand-alone problem without

is why most of the mass market

that come into play. The key word

picturing the entire situation. Also,

brands have relocated outside

of the situation is corruption.

when it comes to the aids given

China to less exploited countries

to Bangladesh after the crash,

to be able to benefit from low

most of this help never actually

costs of labour.

who was accompanying me at the time, was also very concerned

find it too expensive to produce in Bangladesh they will relocate to

reached the victims, because of the corruption, which I have previously described.

What do you think is the future of sweatshops? Will we reach a point where they will cease to exist?

People in the Village

What is the usual way in which fashion companies respond to such scandals? -C.L: After the Rana Plaza tragedy, brands which manufacture in Bangladesh, had all statements to declare with the aim of remov-

-C.L: It is a hard reality to explain,

ing the blame off their shoulders.

however it is the truth. As long as

For example, they tried to remove

there are poor countries, which

their labels from the factories in-

are desperately in need of jobs,

volved in the scandal. This is not

there will also be exploitation and

the correct way to act upon such

garments (the term used by Ca-

scandals. However, they did so

terina to describe sweatshops). It

because generally media and

is certainly crucial to try to reform

journalism exposes such stories

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

with catchy headlines to drive

fashion must change into buying

publication sales, which are det-

less but of a higher quality. This

rimental for the brand and conse-

will take time but fast fashion is

What are the brands that you know of involved in sweatshops?

quently the public is usually exposed to one side of the story.

How do you think their response can be improved? -C.L: Although I didn’t go in depth in all the responses in which the companies

provided,

I find a contradiction between the initial

responses,

which are trying to remove the blame off their shoulders,

A garment’s factory in Bangladesh

compared to the aftermath reaction, which was to

a long-term trend, which I hope

-C.L: When I was in Bangladesh I

sign an agreement as a pact to

eventually must fade to create a

have seen a lot of brands that are

improve the factory conditions.

healthier production rate for the

being manufactured there such

If it weren’t your fault why would

garment industry.

as: Gap, H&M, OVS, Walmart, Tommy Hilfiger, among others…

you be involved in the reform of the industry? Therefore the most important

improvement

re-

sponse should be honesty and transparency from the part of the brand.

Are you still buying from fast fashion companies who produce their garments in sweatshops?

Also, although there was a high

-C.L: I have a special link with

for a fraction of the price that I

garments coming from Bangla-

What, do you think, can be done to create more awareness for the public for them to know the origins of their clothes?

desh, because in my opinion and

-C.L: This brings us back to the rhetorical situation that I have ex-

ed situation in the country as a

plained. Boycotting in this case is

whole I know that things will take

a two-sided action: on one hand

a lot of time.

level of security, some products were being sneaked out of the factories and sold in the markets used to buy them back in Italy.

there, I know that I am actually

What are other countries hit by this new form of slavery?

providing jobs for people in need

-C.L: I have heard of such stories

there. I am certainly with the re-

in countries such as Cambodia

form but having seen the corrupt-

and Vietnam recently.

from the situation that I saw over

What do you think about the current excessive use of violence by the Cambodian government against the garment workers on strike?

it is positive as it may put pressure

The garment industry is actually

on companies to improve Labour

creating a sort of an industrial rev-

conditions, but on the other hand,

olution in Bangladesh, as was the

it will force companies to relocate

case with western countries in the

-C.L: This issue really concerns me

and will cause thousands of peo-

30s. Therefore evolution and re-

because of what I saw in Bangla-

ple to also lose their jobs. The issue

form will always come at a cost.

desh. It is the government, which takes part in the worst forms of

is that our culture of buying fast

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

OVERVIEW

corruptions. Therefore, such strikes must be respected and reforms and agreements must be made

Interviewing Caterina Lunghi: An opportunity to see things differently

and total equality, however situations and nations are much more complex, and it is this holistic view

I can definitely conclude by say-

that makes us realize the actual

ing that my interview with Cate-

reality. After being able to pic-

People generally associate sweatshops with fast fashion; are there any premium or luxury brands that in your knowledge, who also use sweatshops?

rina Lunghi was a surprise. Most

ture that then our efforts to reform

of the things she told me about

will be greater and much more

Bangladesh were unexpected.

efficient•

to control the situation.

Some questions that I thought were going to result in very negative answers were actually the

-C.L: In Bangladesh, the labour

opposite. For example for my

is not yet ready for high quality

question about her purchases of

manufacturing that the luxury in-

clothes with a “Made in Bang-

dustry demands, however in oth-

ladesh” tag, I was absolutely

er countries such as China, the

sure about her objection to that.

labour is more experienced and

However, her answer turned out

several big brands manufacture

to be totally opposite. I consider,

there. From my personal experi-

this opportunity to see things dif-

ence I have already bought san-

ferently, very valuable because it

dals from Prada with a “Made in

made me realize the depth of the

China” tag. However, it is not cer-

research required for sorting out

tain if it is made in a sweatshop

facts and realities before pointing

or not. A friend of mine working

fingers and judgements. This inter-

in the fashion industry has visited

view is not by any means a guilt-

factories in Guan Ju and has seen

free pass for fast fashion compa-

a lot of sweat shops there howev-

nies, but it is also an eye-opener to

er, I am not absolutely sure about

a holistic view of the situation hap-

what brands manufacture there,

pening in the garment industries

and whether they belong to the

in Bangladesh and other coun-

premium and luxury section or the

tries similar to it. Our efforts must

mass market.

be oriented towards perfection

Photos: Courtesy of Caterina Lunghi

Uttara Knitwears Ltd.’s Street Signal

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

Coming to Consciousness: An Interview with the Footwear, Industrial Design, Management and Education Multicultural Expert, Yves Molet Molet Author: Marivi Avalos Monárrez

Yves Molet Molet is a multicultural and multidisciplinary fashion professional, with an extensive experience in Footwear, Industrial Design, Management and Education with a strong passion about sustainable design projects and innovation. His professional experience goes

What does sustainable fashion means to you? -Y.M: Sustainable fashion is a part of fashion that respects the environment, the people, it is a way of thinking and behaving. So for me, it is about human rights, animal rights and how we consume fashion, the products are used longer, since they are of better quality. Also the chemicals that are used and how the rivers are polluted due to all the products used for dying, whitening and softening. So it’s very

from being the designer of Chron-

difficult to be 100% sustainable,

icle (a Scandinavian brand for

green or organic.

men’s footwear) at Hype Scan-

It’s about the material, the pro-

dinavia a company targeting

cess and how the users interact

the Chinese Market, and prod-

with the product.

uct manager at Greenpeace in Spain, to Design Lecturer in India and Academic Coordinator of the Fashion Design department in Mexico at CEDIM. With such an exceptional and fashion and product design, I was delighted to have the opportunity useful insights interview. Molet’s perspective opens our panorama about what is sustain-

to make a very casual, but rich in

,A et ol M es Yv

unique background on the field of

Today Ethical Fashion is an extensive concept for different issues such as child labor, working conditions, fair trade and sustainable production. In your opinion, how can a fashion company truly contribute to make a significant initiative from the product design perspective, and which of these ultic ul tu ra ranges will be improved the most by doing la nd Mu so? lt -Y.M: Fashion companies have a lot of responsibility

idi sci plin ary Des igne r Usu-

able fashion and ethical design,

towards all the issues of ethical and sustainable fashion.

speaking from the side of fashion

ally fashion companies have a list of values, within their brand phi-

and product design, sharing with

losophy, which also involves the design process, because as a product

us his personal experience while

designer, you need to choose the materials and how these materials will

leaving, working and teaching

be processed to create a new product. Usually, if you buy something

abroad.

extremely cheap, the user is not paying the price of it, but the workers in

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

happy workers in the production

of the countries you have been in until today, do you feel is the most conscious about promoting and supporting the ethical side of fashion and please tell us why?

lines. Also I don’t think that most

-Y.M: In terms of education I

of the fashion consumers are

have been a student, in differ-

aware of what is going on, there

ent schools and also teached in

are few designers who really care

some. Right now, in CEDIM, we

about this. Air pollution is a huge

are working on Social Innovation.

problem in most big cities in Chi-

We are cooperating with NGOs

na, and so far I haven’t seen that

that help women to stay with their

much people worrying about

children. Most of the students are

that. The amount of people con-

committed with the projects and

suming knock-offs is off the charts,

do their best to make a change

so I think it will take a few more

in many people’s lives. Also, we

years to change that, since now

have given talks about situations

young people have money, they

happening in Bangladesh and the

want to spend it and they want to

students ask what they can do,

show that they have it.

or how can they know how and

the factory will be paying it living

men were not fashion consumers

the way they live. Probably also

and now it’s a different world, it is

risking their health, so it´s also in

in constant change. So far, I have

our (product designers) hands to

only seen few factories that wor-

change this.

ry about their workers, I don’t see

We know you count with an extensive experience by living abroad, working in different parts of the world in different companies and also teaching in recognized institutions about sustainable fashion design, from Italy, Spain, Austria to China, India and even Mexico. From your professional experience as a Product Manager and Shoe Designer in China, how much importance do people give to the side of ethical fashion in China? -Y.M: China is a market that I have experienced for many years. The first time I was there,

where the garment was made.

Now, speaking from your experience in academia, which

I feel we are building awareness and it will be up to them to

A professional and fashion expert passionate about sustainable design projects and innovation

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

INDUSTRY INSIGHTS BY THE INSIDERS

I said before: the chemicals, the

Final toughts after a conversation with Yves Molet

In India, it was more about the

biodegradability of the materials

Illustrious is the perfect word to

luxury. I remember taking my stu-

used. With classic shoes, you can

describe my interview with Yves

dents to a NGO that was help-

go to a shoe repair and get new

Molet’s, his experience in relation

decide how they will work, design and consume in the future.

The manufacturing process, as

ing women to learn

with

skills in order to make

about

clothes,

the

subjects

sustainable

give

design and innova-

their

tion is unique. The

children. My students

reason why, is be-

were surprised that

cause

and

education

these problems still exist in their neighborhood. I guess, more people in the Western world are aware of what is happening in the factories, and the people working

« If you buy something extremely cheap, the workers in the factory will be paying for it living the way they live »

his

lifestyle,

has allowed him to acquired an incomparable knowledge about what is happening

worldwide

around the fashion industry. His capability to participate

there haven’t seen

in all the areas this

other

business

factories

encom-

they just see it as that

passes

is what work is about.

to share with us how

allows

him

is the mood inside

We all know that India is a country that was based

outsoles for them if they get dam-

a Chinese shoe factory to what

on set castes so it is not such an

aged, nowadays that is not possi-

can we expect from future fash-

inclusive culture. I had the im-

ble most of the times.

ion professionals preparation and their consciousness on these sensi-

pression that low-income people there have very few possibilities to change their situation, instead in Mexico I feel there is a different vision that life can indeed change.

What are the 3 most important things you care about during the design process to stay true to sustainability and your passion for des ign? Human rights, the user, the manufacturing process.

Sometimes people think that eco fashion or sustainable fashion cannot offer beautiful, luxurious designs or better said unique experiences... What can you tell us about this do you agree?

tive topics in the industry•

I think that sustainable and ethical fashion can be even more beautiful. You have a wide range of materials and natural dyes, that are amazing, natural color

Human rights so that their work-

combinations are always out-

ers have covered basic needs,

standing. Also the fact that the

which in many cases they lack hy-

product changes with the aging,

giene, food, health…

you can see that the product has

The user, has a lot of power in

a history. I think there’s more value

this, due that she/he can decide

in that than the price. (To me it is

whether to buy or not a product

much more challenging to make

which has been made in a certain

very comfortable shoes that are

way. And brands should commu-

beautiful).

nicate this and have transparency with their consumers. Photos: Courtesy of Yves Molet

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

Will Sustainability and Ethical Fashion Remain a Key Subject in the Next 10 years? Author: Laura Sanchis

The easy access to information has made it increasingly more difficult for companies to hide their production processes.

marginal social cost equation. According to Investopedia, this equation states that “the total cost of producing one extra unit of something is not simply the direct cost borne by the producer (private cost), but also must include the costs to the external environment and other stakeholders (external cost)”. Unfortunately, in many cases, companies attempt to lower the private

And, if we believe that many

costs of production at the expense of increasing the external cost. In the

fashion consumers see clothing

special case of the Fashion Industry, this external cost consists more no-

and accessories as a statement,

tably in the lack of decent working conditions in the factories. We have

a more educated and more in-

heard one-too-many articles lately about collapsing production plants,

formed consumer will want his

fires and deaths.

garments to be a statement not

The thing about this marginal external cost is that it cannot be clearly

only of his personal style but also

stated in tangible monetary units, and because of this largely subjective

of his social consciousness.

nature, it is almost always ignored in the financial statements. To alleviate

The issue of sustainability in any company is measured in its

this, the only solution that authorities have found is to place incentives for companies “to reduce the marginal cost of their actions”.

Honesty By, an example of Ethical Fashion

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

In the Fashion Industry, the sup-

Therefore, why can’t we envi-

VentureBeat

mentions

their

ply is gradually becoming more

sion them also emulating this so-

campaign encouraging people

and more determined by the

cial-conscious approach?

to buy fewer, well-made items,

consumer, abandoning the pre-

Undoubtedly, being complete-

instead of perpetuating the un-

vious process where the big fash-

ly transparent about all the costs

fair working conditions needed to

ion brands imposed the trends,

would require these fast fashion

produce cheap clothing.

colors, shapes and materials in

companies to reduce the exter-

We all remember the pioneering

the market. So, in this context, it is

nal cost, which in turn will increase

company Honest By, when they

sensible to ask ourselves: What if

the total cost of the product1 (and

launched in January 2012 being

the future consumer would be the

the price that the consumers will

“unique in communicating about

main determinant, not only for the

ultimately pay). The creation of a

the supply chain of its products

product features, but also for the

100% sustainable business model

and pricing”3.

production process? What if, he

compatible with the pricing and

As long as our assumption about

were to turn into the main incen-

timing structure of fast fashion – if

the consumer’s growing inter-

tive for companies to reduce their

there is any – is yet to be exposed

est to be perceived as a socially

external cost? If so, how would he

and massively implemented.

and environmentally conscious

do it?

But some companies are slowly

is correct, the survival of compa-

Of course, increasing transpar-

discovering the positive bias of

nies like Cuyana and Honest By is

ency about production costs and

some consumers towards prefer-

guaranteed. This would undoubt-

processes is not something new.

ring fewer pieces in their closets,

edly turn sustainability into the

Some companies have already

as long as it means that they all

norm of fashion companies in the

responded to this consumer-led

comply with their definition of an

next 10 years, by having the same

incentive, but, until now, it has

ethical production process.

importance in people’s minds as

been limited to the luxury end of

This is precisely what brands like

design, colors and fitting. The in-

the fashion spectrum. Nonethe-

Cuyana are capitalizing on. It is a

crease of people’s access to in-

less, fast-fashion companies have

brand that “sells apparel and ac-

formation and, therefore, educa-

started to emulate luxury com-

cessories that are made with high-

tion about sustainable issues, will

panies in some aspects – such

end materials, craftsmanship, and

ultimately perpetuate the need

as communication, for example.

sustainably sourced”2 . An article

of cost transparency. During hard economic times, it is normal to expect people to give less importance to smart buying, and instead they care more about cheap buying. Therefore, it would take quite some time for this socio/environmental mentality to permeate the majority of the world’s consumers of fashion. The process will definitely be slow, but the overall benefits for the planet will be grand•

Here Today, Here Tomorrow Store in UK

Companies would have to give better working conditions to the employees in the production plants, they would have to select better-pro-

duced materials, and so on. 2

Venture Beat. (June, 2013) Cuyana raises $1.7M to update your closet with fashion that doesn’t harm humanity. Retrieved January, 14 from: http://venturebeat.com

Honest By. About. Retrieved January,14 from: http://www.honestby.com

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

Ethical Fashion Market Predictions: The perspective from a Brand Builder and Fashion Entrepreneur in Asia Author:Marivi Avalos Monárrez

Peter Caplowe is a successful fashion entrepreneur and brand builder that developed Evisu, a Japanese designer clothing company specialized in producing denim wear through traditional methods, from a small Japanese boutique to a globally recognized mega-label. His more recent project is the HUB Hong Kong, which is a fashion trade show that its on its way to become Asia’s leading event of its kind. Caplowe launched the

fashion. Caplow’s daily professional activities encounters him with the reality in terms of business and branding about the market for fashion brands that are based on this approach, and as a result he was able to bring up for us the trend about the market expected behavior, to receive these kind of brands.

When did you notice there was an important presence of the sustainability and ethics topics in fashion? Did you see the trend starting from the street to the runways and then the retailing or how will you describe the process for this trend to become popular and mainstream? -P.C: I became aware of the

August 28-30 linking exhibitors from

sustainability and ethics aspect

all across Europe North America

of fashion whilst running Evisu. The

and Asia with buyers from Greater

denim business is generally a dirty

China, Southeast Asia and neigh-

business and once I saw the pro-

boring regions.

cesses involved I quickly understood it

sfu es cc su

was important to minimize the effects -

The final outcome was a huge

we plo Ca er Pet

HUB Hong Kong first edition last

lf as hi on

success that for this soon to be

this was around 15 years ago. Most devel-

next edition in February they add-

opments in fashion ultimately come from the

ed a special area devoted exclu-

street, but most consumers are surprisingly ignorant

sively to rising designers, and it is

of the environmental issues surrounding fashion. I think

called the Greenhouse.

they were initially put on the map by environmentalists

Having such a fascinating professional background, we were

en tre pr en eu r

an db ran d bu ilder and

NGOs. From here the press began to pick it up and eventually the industry started to react.

interested to get his insights about what the fortune will bring for the topic of ethical or sustainable

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

« Poor countries have little or nothing to offer but their cheap labour »

presages

do not think it should be forgotten

return

that the the experiences of young

greater desire

style leaders and opinion formers,

on the part of

particularly from the fashion and

the

consum-

music businesses who visit other

er to spend

cultures around the world and mix

with those cultures in a ‘real’ way

bit

products

through their work (as opposed

that do less

to student travelers who just hang

harm to the

out with other student travelers!)

environment.

have been a huge driver for a

trend

world where people know more

from a design

The

about and respect other cultures

and branding

which in turn addresses the big-

point of view

gest sustainability issue of them

on the next 5, 10 years will they come closer to care and being more aware of designing and producing eco or sustainable products or do you think the trend will loose interest at some point? And why?

is a focus on a more artisanal/

all - will we all blow each other to

craft based approach often us-

bits!

-P.C: As trade show organizers,

techniques, though this is may not

we talk to hundreds of key opin-

be the primary motivation behind

ion-forming

such an approach.

and

trend-leading

ing local production as opposed to low cost production countries at the end of a long supply chain. This has the result of creating more sustainable production

brands every season so are in a

Bricks and mortar trade shows

great position to understand the

that are simply rows of bland

thinking of the industry.

booths showing bland product will

I would say environmental issues

no doubt be replaced by a com-

have become less of a hot topic

bination of online trade shows for

over the last few seasons but this

the bottom of the market and im-

is positive in that these issues are

mersive, buzzy, informative, cre-

now seen as an issue all serious

ative industry gatherings for the

brands must address. The difficult

mid and higher end. However I

Do you see a good quantity of exhibitors, promoting quality, fair manufacturing and the use of local resources? If so, are these brands from Asia or in the majority from Western? Do you see local designers and brands in China or Hong Kong caring about this topic? From consumers side is there an increasing interest to find these products as an alternative option to reduce the impact of their consuming habits?

economic climate of the last few years has also had an impact on the level of interest in sustainability. When money is tight, it is difficult to persuade people to pay more for a common good where the benefits are

long

the

beyond

immediate

horizon. Hopefully a more optimistic

macro-

economic

outlook

THE HUB is Hong Kong’s invitation-only trade show

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

-P.C: In general yes but, as above, perhaps with less urgency but more widespread then a few years ago. Asia does lag behind the West to some degree but this is largely just due to the fact that so many Asian brands and consumers are still new to considering these issues. However with the explosion of the internet and social media, I see this gap closing within a couple of years. In fact as there is a degree of ‘eco-fatigue’ in the West which does not exist in Asia, it could well be Asia that leads the next stage action to address the

The HUB’s co-founders Richard Hobbs and Peter Caplowe

issue of sustainability in fashion.

seriously seem to be the perennial

Do you think people really care when they find out that a brand they love has polluted waters, or is paying nothing to workers at factories while having them working in not enough safety conditions? In terms of public relations and brand popularity, what do you think brands should do apart from taking initiatives to create awareness about these problems?

‘bad guys’.

Westerners want cheap clothing and other labour intensive goods.

I think the industry as a whole

People in poor countries want jobs

needs to stop dancing to the tune

that get them out of subsistence

of a few naive activists, usually

farming. The coming together of

living comfortably in rich coun-

these two desires has resulted in

tries with their wealth built on the

a massive transfer of money from

back of labour and environmen-

rich countries to poor countries

tal standards they would consid-

- far in excess of anything man-

er outrageous today and start to

aged by governments or charities

show honest leadership in bringing

whilst making people in the West

perspective and maturity to the

feel good for a cost far lower than

debate. A few points they should

they would be paying for locally

be making: poor countries have

produced clothing.

-P.C: Clearly people do care.

little or nothing to offer but their

Once the debate has gone be-

Another impact of the digital

cheap labour to get them out of

yond a simple and knee-jerk reac-

world is the avalanche of informa-

poverty. Depriving them of this op-

tion that paying people in foreign

tion and plethora of issues about

portunity by trying to impose West-

countries less than local workers

which to be concerned – this can

ern world standards on them is

get paid to make the same things

dilute the level of concern about

tantamount to condemning them

then the brands should work with

individual

supply

to perpetual poverty with all the

the governments of these coun-

chains are so long and produc-

issues.

Also,

misery and shortened lifespans this

tries to address the more egre-

ers at the end of them so isolated

entails.

gious abuses that do occur. I do

from media or government over-

Fashion is one of the most la-

believe the involvement of the

sight that it is genuinely difficult for

bour intensive

with

local people and governments is

even the most concerned brands

one of the lowest barriers to en-

fundamental - the view that it is

to control the conditions. It then

try. It is thus most suited to the

the duty of the Western brands to

seems to be something of a lottery

poorest countries as they start to

decide and enforce the appro-

as to which brands get ‘exposed’.

climb out of poverty - they are

priate labour and environmental

I know of many brands who care

not condemned to be just suppli-

conditions for sovereign devel-

little for sustainability or the con-

ers of cheap labour forever - until

oping nations without consulting

ditions of their workers that never

just a few decades ago Japan

the people concerned is arrogant

had any bad publicity whereas a

and South Korea were low cost

and naive•

lot of brands that do take it very

countries.

businesses

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

The Answer May Be in Your Grandma’s Wardrobe Author: Alejandra Ortega

The peak of consumerism has emerged with globalization and also as a consequence of conspicuous consumption. Our carbon footprint is increasing everyday due, among other things, to the colossal production of goods; and hyper consumption doesn’t seem to be stopping any time soon. For a sustainable consumption a great deal of areas can be considered; these include the avoidance of particular brands or products that are known to have bad production processes, the usage of green-products, or consumers that are willingly and actively looking to reduce their levels of expenditure. But how can true fashion lovers, fulfill their needs and wants for clothes, without sacrificing style, and considerably decreasing the negative effect massive production has on the environment? The answer may be in their grandma’s wardrobe. We need to admit that directing people towards a more

eco-friendly consumption is not an easy task, it will be a restrained and a very slow change in our daily lives. That’s why vintage shopping, can be one very important way for people to start making a difference, without losing the buying experience, that we all love so much. Nowadays, there are many different places that specialize in vintage, and even stores that reuse those vintage pieces and give them a twist, so they are more up to date.

« Buy less, choose well, make it last »

Reusing, and recycling clothing, can offer a bigger chance for self-expression, than just simply consuming the latest trends that everybody follows. Vintage clothing gives the possibility of being unique and environmentally friendly. Living a sustainable life doesn’t automatically require buying and using green products. As an alternative there is the anti-consumption practices that include reprocess and recycle of materials and clothes. Vivienne Westwood is one of the first designers that started advocating for slowing our consumption pace. Vintage shopping can be considered as a very ethical way of consuming, and there are various reasons for that: 1. It doesn’t end up piling on more non-degradable garbage. 2. Reusing old clothes also ousts the need to create new virgin fibers, which are manufactured with oil-based petroleum, or in other kind of materials such as leather it avoids the dyeing that is highly contaminating. © Fashionbi - All rights Reserved

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FUTURE TRENDS

Besides being one of the many ways people can be more ethical about their consumption, it is a highly growing business: Research and Markets reported that the used merchandise stores industry (that doesn’t only include clothing) has around 25,000 stores and a very high estimated revenue of $16 billion, just in the US. Here are little tips if you are a beginner in vintage shopping; trendy advice: don’t try to look like a piece of history, mix and match vintage with up-todate clothing. Eco-friendly advice: try to locate stores that have local vintage clothes, otherwise the carbon footprint of shipping will reduce the environmental benefit of buying vintage. Vintage and secondhand shopping is fashionable, trendy, and you can get unique little treasures from luxury and premium designers and above all, it is a great way

to do something for the planet, without losing your style, if anything, it will enhance it with rare, desirable pieces. A lot of celebrities are getting into the vintage trend, starting with Ditta Von Teese (that dresses in a very Betty Page style, with real vintage pieces), Chloe Sevigny, Evan Rachael Wood, Rose McGowan, Nicole Kidman, Natalie Portman, Gwen Stefani to name a few… Vintage clothing is sustainable, now that we are desperately suffering and seeing the consequences of global warming, we cannot be passive about it. And it is perfect if a good way to start doing our part to help, can also be by being stylish, than that is more than great news. Because the earth is unable to take on more waste, reusing these items is simply a great way for living more sustainably. Vintage shopping can be considered baby steps on the way to a more conscious

consumption, but these steps help and lead to bigger changes. A tour to a vintage store can please your urges to shop, can give you a totally unique wardrobe, is eco-conscious, has high fashion involvement, and is also great for those prone to nostalgia and better times, all while also minimizing your carbon footprint. Vintage is only ONE way, of many in which fashionistas and people in general can fight the battle towards sustainable consumption. In other words, advances regarding sustainability does not necessarily implicate stopping fashion, but may entail returning to the days when fashion was not like fast food, and also will require us, as consumers to demand brands for better practices. We can’t expect that the fashion industry will react, without us doing our part and claiming them to do theirs•

Vintage Clothing

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

FASHIONBI CONTRIBUTORS

Fashionbi Contributors

Zoe Bordelon

Marilyne Goetz-Charlier

Ghina Maalouf

France

Lebanon

Studying a Masters in Luxury

With a strong international

A Cum Laudem graduate

and Fashion Management

background. Currently living in

student with a Master in Luxury

at SKEMA Business School in

Shanghai, China, she has expe-

Brand Management at Istituto

France. She has experience in

rience in market analysis and is

Marangoni, Milan, Italy.

sustainable development and

following China’s fashion trends

Dynamic, polyvalent with inter-

a strong background in Interna-

and business directly.

personal skills.

Beatrice Abillama

Alejandra Ortega

Laura Sanchís

Lebanon

Colombia

Dominican Republic

Graduate with a Master in

Graduate student with a

Masters graduate in Fashion

Fashion and Luxury Manage-

Master in Luxury Brand Man-

Management from Domus

ment at Domus Academy,

agement at Istituto Marangoni,

Academy with a bachelors

Milan, Italy.

degree in Economics. She also

Currently works as a freelancer

She is the Fashionbi Brand Am-

has experience in banking and

fashion journalist in Lebanon.

bassador.

financial analysis.

tional Relations.

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

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Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

CREDITS

Credits

p.6 Title: Toxic Threads: Putting Pollution on Parade Credit: Greenpeace International Toxic Threads: Putting Pollution on Parade p.7 Title: Greenpeace Detox Movement at H&M Credit: Clickers and Stickers Make H&M Detox p.8 Title: The three pillars of sustainability bounded by the environment Credit: Diagram by Andrew Sunray CC BY-SA 3.0 p.8 Title: Greenpeace Dirty Laundry China Credit: Greenpeace International Toxic Threads: Putting Pollution on Parade p.10 Title: Controversial Campaign in Edmonton Credit: Fluid Hair Studio & Spa p.11 Title: Fashion PLM Collaboration Source: 1970i / Conceptable p.12 Title: Think Negative by Kenneth Cole Source: Bloomberg Video p.13 Title: Morium Begum a Surviver from Bangladesh Credit: © Abir Abdullah/Efe p.14 Title: Women in Sweatshops Source: EthicalFootPrint Blog p.15 Title: Dhaka Savar Building Collapse Credit: Photo by Jaber Al Nahaian CC BY-SA 3.0 p.16 Title: Rina Bovrisse has been in a four-year-long legal battle with her former employer, Prada Japan Source: Truth is Cool p.17 Title: Jes Baker is cutting retailer Abercrombie & Fitch down to size Credit: Liora K Photograph for The Militant Baker p.19 Title: Any old clothes will do for Salvation Army Credits: Photo by Clive Stewart & Michael Meryersfeld for South Africa’s Salvation Army’s Campaing

p.20 Title: Front Row Fashion Bloggers Credit: Photo by Yvan Rodic, The Facehunter p.21 Title: Brands Collage Credit: Creative of TAXI Design Network p.21 Title: Social Media Credit: Photo by Jason A. Howie p.23 Title: We are Trying to Be Nice Image Source: Nordic Fahion Association p.26 Title: White Ribbon badge designed by Stella McCartney for the Kering Foundation Credit: twibbon.com p.31 Title: ELLE Middle East Owner and Director of Edition Mrs.Désirée Sadek Source: Courtesy of Mrs. Mrs.Désirée Sadek p.33 Title: ELLE Arab World Editor In Chief Ms. Maria Aziz Source: Courtesy of Ms.Maria Aziz p.45 Title: Peter Caplowe a successful fashion entrepreneur and brand builder Credit: Courtesy of Perter Caplowe p.47 Title: The HUB’s co-founders Richard Hobbs and Peter Caplowe Source: TheHubHongKong p.49 Title: Vintage Clothing Credit: Photo by Marivi Avalos Monárrez

Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - February 2014

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Fashionbi Magazine - Issue 3 - April 2014

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