16 minute read
MASTERCLASS: F-14
from BRICKS issue 18
by mark guest
HIGH FLYER
James Cherry blows all expectations away with his mighty 1/15 scale Grumman F-14 Tomcat
Advertisement
Words: Lewis Matthews Photography: Andrew Tipping
MASTERCLASS
CLICK HERE
FOR MORE
With only a select handful of builders bravely pushing brick-built boundaries, it is always refreshing to see a build that is so uncompromisingly breathtaking that it inadvertently makes you question the purist ethos. Avid fighter plane and scale-building enthusiast James Cherry now joins the ranks of Carl Greatrix and Alexander Jones as a builder who may use unconventional and controversial methods, but you can bet that the end result is nothing short of spectacular. With the grand reveal of his Grumman F-14 Tomcat, James exclusively takes Bricks readers through his approach to scale building, creating decals and making elegant and subtle curves.
Could you take us through your builder profile and building ethos?
As a child, I always enjoyed LEGO Space before focusing my interest on LEGO Technic. 8860 Car Chassis and 8859 Tractor were my absolute favourites. After a relatively short dark period, the LEGO Star Wars sets brought me back but again, I ended up tending towards Technic. There is definitely a frustrated engineer in me that Technic really appealed to. Nowadays, if I buy sets, they tend to be the big Technic ones or the Ultimate Collector Series Star Wars sets, though I am also quite fond of many of the Ideas sets too. In terms of My Own Creations (MOCs), I started building predominantly Technic models featuring rudimentary manual functions but I always became frustrated with them, as they didn’t look realistic enough to me in the end.
MASTERCLASS
Custom-formed canopy provides cover for the crew The detail in James’ F-14 is simply staggering, particularly in the cockpit
I was therefore driven towards creating functional models that also had a scale appearance. I spent many years struggling with that concept, as there were just not enough pieces around to deliver the scale look I was after. That has really changed in the last three to four years with the plethora of curved slopes now available, which meant I was able to achieve accurate shaping of things like aircraft to a level I was comfortable with. I only really entered the Adult Fan of LEGO community two years ago; my amazing wife Jo convinced me to join Brickish and start sharing some of my models online. Since then, I have not looked back and having met so many amazing people along the way, I owe Jo big-time for pushing me down that path. In terms of inspiration, seeing the work of Ralph Savelsberg made me realise the possibilities of creating LEGO planes, yet in terms of building style, design and language, Carl Greatrix is certainly the builder I have looked up to most. We share a passion for smooth finishes and detail as well as an approach to shaping models to be stylistically accurate. There are many others out there who have also been influences over the years, many of whom are now part of the newly-formed recognised LEGO User Group, Scale Modellers Association, of which I am a member. As anyone who has seen my models will know, I am certainly no purist. While I won’t use traditional clone bricks, I am happy to push other boundaries to achieve my personal aims, as you can see with my non-LEGO brand canopy glazing and stickers, for example. I make no secret that I use aluminium lift-arms in areas requiring high strength in the frame structures of some of my models.
Why choose the LEGO medium?
My dad used to ask me that all the time. He is a scale radio-controlled aircraft builder, and an amazing one at that, and he always questions my choice of medium. Seeing some of my latest models though, I think he understands that the level of fidelity that can now be achieved with Lego is pretty high, although he is fond of reminding me that they don’t fly! I tried many other forms of modelling but I was not very good at it. I turned to the LEGO System as it both offered an engineering challenge and didn’t involve messy glue and paints. Plus I find the process of constructing with LEGO bricks therapeutic; like modellers in general, I think you just know when you have found your medium. It also helps that I have a six-year-old boy and being able to share a hobby with him is awesome.
Of all scaled models you could create, why planes?
I have made a few other scale models, like my X-Wing and my take on some old Tamiya R/C cars but my real passion has always been military aviation. Up to the age of 18, all I wanted to be was a fighter pilot, so the passion for planes has always been a big part of my life.
What dictates the scale and why?
The ability to build a model with a high level of accuracy and detail is largely responsible for defining the scale. Too small and the detail, shaping and functionality is just not possible. Too large and the practicalities of strength, space and moving it become an issue. I am always looking to build with smooth transitions rather than stepping bricks and plates and generally, a larger size means this becomes more achievable. Once I have decided on a rough size, the two other main considerations are usually available wheel options and, in particular on recent models, missile diameters. The Tomcat carries three different-sized missiles and with the limited round brick options, I had to select the scale that would best suit the construction of all three. My two big jets ended up being 1/15 scale as result of those factors.
What is your process for creating a scale plane?
First thing after deciding on the subject is lots of research: I read books and study photos and scale drawings to help me fully understand how the real plane looks and works. I also make a large-scale Airfix-type kit, normally 1/32 scale, so that I have a 3D model to reference for shaping. This is a critical component for me as the subtleties of compound curves and shaping can’t be appreciated easily from drawings or photos. Next, I print out five-view drawings (side, top, bottom, front, back) to the correct scale and place them around my build space. Then I annotate them with various measurements and the positioning of where the internal Technic frame will go. I find this a critical stage, as the frame needs to end up hidden and not interfere with the external scale look. With a model like the Tomcat, this is very complex as I needed to take into account factors like hollow air intakes (all the way back to the front of the engine fan blades), the swinging wing mechanism and the installation of the speakers and lights. I will keep measuring against my reference photos and drawings, as well as building on top of a scaled plan in order to keep the scale correct. It’s only then that I start to physically build. I don’t use any computer-assisted design software, it is all brick-on-brick trial and error. I am lucky now that I have built up a large parts inventory, so I normally have everything I need to at least test different options before I have to commit to Bricklink orders. First up are the Technic frame and the initial installation of the Power
Functions, including how they will need to be linked to the control surfaces. Once this stage is complete, I will then begin to build all the powered components.
Electronic components live within the Technic airframe
MASTERCLASS
Technic airframe and System fuselage a perfect combination
So this normally covers the tail area with rudders and elevators or elevons and the wings with flaps, ailerons and spoilers. With the Tomcat, that also included the swing wing mechanism and how I was going to tackle the under-wing ‘airbags’ that fill the void when the wing is forward. I actually ended-up making the airbags from dyed LEGO sail material trapped under the surrounding bricks. Then I move on to the various outer panels that create the shaping. This process is the most time consuming and usually involves many, many iterations before they get finalised. The last build stage is the detail, like undercarriage, missiles, pylons, gear doors and cockpit interior. Finally, the stickers and stencils to finish the model off.
You use lots of printed imagery to aid in the visual accuracy of your F-14. How do you create these?
I use two types of printed media; the larger components are vinyl stickers, the very small stencils and warning symbols are all dry-rub decals. I design all of the stickers and decals myself using various software programs. My father used to be a sign-writer, so has a vinyl plotter that I use to cut the vinyl stickers. It is pretty indispensable for the type of stickers I create, though if you can create your own files, there are lots of sign companies that could cut them out for you. For the dry rubs, I create a file and then use a local printing company to print them. These are applied by rubbing a pencil on the backing sheet, like the old Letraset or the sheets I remember getting in cereal boxes as a kid.
The resolution of dry rubs is incredible - you can create quality letters 1mm tall.
What custom elements have you created for your F-14?
The canopies on all of my planes, not just my F-14, are non-LEGO glazed components. I have tried building brick canopies but they just do not reflect the true scale enough for me. I know the use of non-LEGO parts is divisive but the issues presented with brick-built canopies, like the opaqueness and the compromises needed on the interior detail, don’t meet my scale needs. Sometimes there is an R/C plane kit in the same scale that I am building in with a canopy which I can cut up to use but with the Tomcat, for example, I had to shape my own balsa wood mould and vacuum-form my own glazing to fit the LEGO frame. This was a painstaking process and took weeks to get to the final item you see on the model.
Your F-14 appears on a section of aircraft carrier. Was this planned and how did you design and build it?
I actually intended to build the section of deck to display my F-4J Phantom on but I just didn’t get around to it at the time. When I was nearing completion of the Tomcat, I decided to take the plunge and it was quite a mammoth plunge at that. I studied photos and plans of the USS Enterprise’s forward starboard catapult and then built up a structure to support
the top skin so that I could achieve the depth below the Jet Blast Deflector. My favourite part is the Tie Down Points that US carriers have. Arch bricks and Speed Champion wheel rims look pretty accurate.
Not only is your F-14 exciting due to its size, impressive design and detail but it also includes sound and lights. Are these LEGO modules and if not, how did you design and build them?
This was my first foray into light and sound. I was inspired by people who have been incorporating lights into their builds with great success. Both the sound and afterburner lighting are non-LEGO items though. The model has a two-inch speaker in each tail pipe linked to an F-14A Sound module normally for use in R/C models. They can be extremely loud and sound very authentic with start-up, shutdown and afterburner stages. The afterburner lights are also an R/C aircraft component and change colour as the afterburner ignites in sync with the sounds. They were relatively straightforward to incorporate, mainly using LEGO elastic bands. They run off a radio-control unit but I am looking into controlling them from an SBrick.
Are there any techniques you found useful during this build?
The key to success with the Tomcat was being able to attach all of the outer panels at the correct orientation so the shaping could be accurately achieved.
The predecessor, the F-4 Phantom, is another stunning piece of work
MASTERCLASS
Like the Tomcat, the Phantom is covered in compound curves
CLICK HERE
FOR MORE
The aircraft is one big compound curve, which meant that every panel had to be at odd angles to its next-door neighbour. To position them, I used a combination of the now-discontinued flat finger hinges, other hinge plates, hinge bricks and Mixel balljoints. Another technique I use is gradually stepping curved slopes or tiles using part no. 2817 2x2 pinhole plate and twisting each piece relevant to those either side. This is useful to create longer compound curves. You can see this on the rear inner fuselage of the Tomcat where the engines meet the vertical stabilisers. I am always trying new ideas for creating compound curves - planes are generally covered in them and they are the most challenging shapes to re-create in LEGO bricks and often need off-grid or illegal connections.
Any advice for someone planning their first scale model?
The biggest challenge for me is building the internal frame while trying to consider both the fitment of Power Functions and how the outer shaping will need incorporating. Inevitably there are numerous re-designs needed but it helps hugely to have things planned out as much as possible in advance. If I had to impart one vital bit of advice, it would be to study as much source material as you can in advance and get to know your subject as well as possible from all angles. I have found from experience that this saves so much time in the long run.
Do you have other projects lined-up?
I might try something completely different in the coming months. I have been thinking about doing a Judge Dredd figure and Lawmaster bike. It won’t be long before I am back to planes; I have a long to-do list that includes the F-8E Crusader, F/A-18E Super Hornet and a Spitfire Mk XIV. But I have very recently decided that my next plane build will be a Sea Harrier FRS.1, the only outstanding question is to what scale. The Harrier is comparably small versus the Tomcat or Phantom, so I may be tempted to go nearer to 1/10 scale to pack in as much detail and as many functions as possible. My models take between six and nine months to complete so I am targeting the Bricktastic show next July for completion.
CREATING CURVES
Using a combination of carefully-placed flat finger hinges, hinge bricks and Mixel ball-joints, you too can create subtle curvature.
Slightly angling a series of 2x2 with pin hole plates is another tip you can use to create a slick curve.
It may hardly be noticeable but it’s the attention to details that defines James’ abilities.
REGISTER FOR FREE AND RECEIVE FREE
SPECIAL EDITIONS
Get our app for access to masses of free LEGO-themed content on the go, including a Disney Minifi gures guide, Brickset Digest, a catalogue of custom printed fi gures and accessories and much more. Download the Bricks and Bricks Culture app for your Android or Apple device and then register for free at getinto.bricksmag.com
THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO CUSTOM PRINTED FIGURES AND ACCESSORIES
LEGO and the LEGO logo are trademarks of the LEGO Group © 2016 The LEGO Group. All Rights Reserved. Bricks magazine is not an official LEGO product nor affiliated in any way PRINTED ACCESSORIES CUSTOM PRINTS COLLECTIBLE FIGURESTHE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BUILDING, BUYING AND COLLECTING LEGO® PRODUCTS DISNEY COLLECTIBLE LEGO MINIFIGURE GUIDE 2016 COLLECTIBLE FIGURESGUIDE 2016
APRIL/MAY 2016
THE BEST OF THE WORLD'S FAVOURITE LEGO FAN SITE
THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BUILDING, BUYING AND COLLECTING LEGO® PRODUCTS
LEGO and the LEGO logo are trademarks of the LEGO Group © 2016 The LEGO Group. All Rights Reserved. Brickset Digest magazine is not an official LEGO product nor affiliated in any way Birds Built | Throwback Thursdays | Justin Ramsden interviewed | The new Hot Dog Deep sea exploration | What happened to baseplates? Deep sea exploration
LEGO and the LEGO logo are trademarks of the LEGO Group © 2016 The LEGO Group. All Rights Reserved. Bricks magazine is not an offi cial LEGO product nor affi liated in any way SPECIAL EDITION - SEPTEMBER 24TH - 25TH 2016 SKÆRBÆK FAN WEEKEND Bricks
You can also buy digital issues of Bricks or Bricks Culture to enjoy on your mobile device. So what are you waiting for? Immerse yourself in everything associated with the brick and all of the latest innovations around and associated with the adult fan community. The Bricks and Bricks Culture app is now available on the App Store and Google Play getinto.bricksmag.com
