Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Stylist: Ayako Iijima. Make-up and Hair: Alain Milroy @ Agencecarole, Dress:
Illustration: KRSN-Jan Garet
Lanvin
Under the Influence Issue N°3 summer 08 ※ Editor-in-chief / Creative Director: Mark O’Sullivan Fashion Editor/Publisher: Valentina Ilardi Editor: Sarah Hay Art Director/ Photo Editor: Susan Connie Marsh Associate Photo Editors: Peppe Tortora Edward Lane Graphic Designer: Simon J Brown Retouching: Edward Lane Cover Typography: Emily Alston Mode: Ondine Azoulay Adeline Cathelin Sandrine Goncalvès Valentina Ilard Benoit Masbonso Photographers: Pablo Arroyo Raul Diaz David D’Ingeo Hanna-Kaisa Korolainen Susan Connie Marsh Mark O’Sullivan Peppe Tortora Fashion Assistants: Marta Sara Crescimanno Dixi Romano Production Manager: Peppe Tortora Printing: info@artigraficheciverchia.it Contact: utimagazine@gmail.com Special Thanks:
Ayako Iijima
David Szeto Dobee Carlo Prada Raphael Daniel Jean François Christophe & Karine @ Metropolitan models Pascal Perez Rodolphe @ Major Fluff Ann Ramirez Isabelle Tasset Marion Boucard Edward Bradbury Premier model management Whynot Closeup AgenceCarole Olivier @ Alaïa
Cover Photo: Photographer: Pablo Arroyo Stylist: Vanentina Ilardi Model: Zenia Sevastyanova@whynot milano. Dress with Swarovski crystal collar: SOFT CORE BY SERGIO ZAMBON: Sunglasses with Swarovski brooch: ALAIN MIKLI BY BLESS. Back Cover Photo: Photographer: Peppe Tortora Carlo Prada wears: Jacket: Martin Margiela ∞ ⊙
Photographer: David D'Ingeo Shoes: Junko Shimada.
Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan,
Model:Agnese Claisse @ Icon Rome Dress:
Stylist: Valentina Ilardi + DIOR , Head Piece: Stylists Own, Make-up & Hair: Martina D'Andrea.
trapped for thirty years in a decaying mansion overrun with cats and raccoons; eating ice-cream with knives
Grey Gardens by Sarah Hay The Maysles brothers dynamic filmography will forever be crowned by Gimme Shelter a warts’n’all documentary that placed audiences centre-stage at the Altamont festival with The Rolling Stones. However, it’s one of their more misunderstood and quirkier documentaries “Grey Gardens” that’s spawned numerous fashion collections, a second documentary (“The Beales Of Grey Gardens” cut from additional footage that never made the original), a recent Broadway musical and soon, a feature length movie starring Drew Barrymore as ‘Little’ Edie and Jessica Lange as “Big” Edie. This documentary divides audiences. This documentary inspires audiences. It’s hilarious and heartbreaking, art and horror but it also stands as one of the few documentaries to truly delve into the complicated relationship between mothers and daughters. Conversely it fuels discussion upon the unique eccentricities that moneyed privilege brings for the world adores a ga-ga aristocrat! But above all, if we the audience approach its subjects and their chosen lifestyles with acceptance, Grey Gardens is a tragi-comic blast. It’s a quote-a-minute no holds barred look at the private lives of two women for whom time has become an extremely loose concept, society their jailor and their only weapons femininity, class and what-to-wear-today? Oscar Wilde wrote, “One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art”. If only he could have met the stars of this Maysles documentary as, without reservation, they exercised their right to both. The archery of camp, so loved by Wilde, adores the ridiculous and let’s be clear, the two women and their daily lives as shown in Grey Gardens are gloriously ridiculous. Two eccentrics, a mother and daughter both named Edie, trapped for thirty years in a decaying mansion over-run with cats and raccoons; eating ice-cream with knives, living and reliving memories and times that the world has long passed by, their grocery bills reportedly paid by selling off pieces of Tiffany jewelry hidden under mattresses ridden with fleas. Did we mention the singing and dancing? There’s plenty. Or, that these women would bill items to Jackie Onassis who patiently and quietly paid up? Who were ‘big’ Edie and ‘little’ Edie Bouvier Beale and how have they worked their way into so many people’s hearts? By the 1920’s the Bouvier family was long established as one of the closest to what America could call aristocracy. This clan of Wall Street stockbrokers, property developers, socialites and debutantes (descended from a French cabinet maker) not only owned apartments on Park Avenue but had built and developed parts of it. Patriarch Major John Bouvier II was a large imposing character with a Southern temper. His son ‘Black Jack’ Bouvier matched this with dashing looks, trend-setting dandy style and caddish charm. Black Jack had a penchant for Scottish whisky and gambling but his pride was always his daughter Jacqueline who went on to marry John F. Kennedy. Major Bouvier’s daughter, Edith Ewing Bouvier Beale gave birth to three children, one a daughter also named Edith who was always the older, much admired and elegant first cousin to Jacqueline who was twelve years her junior. The first chapter of America’s Queen, Jackie Kennedy’s most thumbed biography is entitled “Golden Gatsby years” which, before the great Wall Street crash in 1929, describes perfectly the care-free lives of this close-knit family. Each May everybody, including servants and chauffeurs, would decamp en masse to the Hamptons on Long Island where they owned summer mansions complete with membership to the Maidstone Club which since the 1800’s was the members-only playground for America’s elite. Social standing was everything at the Maidstone Club upheld by strict codes of etiquette but it was also the place where men’s and women’s fashions of the day were set on the golf courses, the tennis courts, the dining rooms and by the pool. Despite the depression years, glamour was the by-word at the Maidstone Club and all who went there. Edith Bouvier Beale had fierce ambitions to become a singer and hired an accompanist with whom she’d entertain at gatherings wearing extremely bohemian ensembles, behaviour constantly damned by her father, brother and in turn her husband. “I was gonna be a singer, you know. A professional singer,” says Big Edie forty years later, “When I met Mr. Beale, the jig was up”. Undeterred, Edie continued her reverie, involving her daughter ‘little’ Edie who didn’t attend school for two years on account of an un-named illness but regularly went to the cinema with mother who also took her on a shopping trip to Paris. By now the pair were rarely seen apart. As she grew, ‘little’ Edie turned into a real beauty, regularly modeling at pageants or sitting for photographers much the wrath of Major Bouvier. Throughout the 30s and 40s she had strong hopes of becoming a dancer or an actress, hopes that were also denounced by the Bouvier men. It was early as 1931 however, before Little Edie had even graduated, that the die was cast for the fate of these two women as Big Edie’s husband walked out leaving her Grey Gardens (a fourteen roomed summer mansion in East Hampton with spectacular gardens) and to depend on the generosity of her family. Later, Major Bouvier, enraged when Big Edie arrived at her sons wedding, twenty-five
ily matter. Evading the eviction of Big Edie and Little Edie, Jackie and her sister Lee Radziwill stepped in and footed the bill for the huge clean-up and restoration of Grey Gardens to meet basic regulations. An estimated 1000 bags of refuse were carried out of the mansion before it could be scrubbed, disinfected and the water and heating restored. For the record, both Edie’s refused to leave. Even at her death five years later Big Edie only agreed to go to hospital because she feared if she stayed that the scandal would lose Little Edie the house. Afterwards Little Edie only sold the house when she was approached by buyers who promised not to knock the place down but restore it to its former glory. In 1975 the Maysles brothers David and Albert had already made their reputation in film-making. They were hipsters on the New York art scene with curious minds for the world around them. Nevertheless their new documentary “Grey Gardens” was a real oddity, a complete turnabout in subject matter from The Beatles, Stones or environmental installation artist Christo who were all young men riding the crest of their times. In Grey Gardens, two aged women lived in what appeared to be an oddball decadent poverty, living in a house where the 60s let alone the 70s had never happened. Their daily ritual of singing, dancing, bickering and dress-up punctuated only by feeding the cats and raccoons disturbed and entertained audiences in select cinemas across the States. Maysles fans, like all audiences were happy to watch the bright skin and expectancy of youth but sagging skin, especially of old women stung viewer’s eyes. Here was a mother and daughter double-act who, in refusing to leave their home, had been engulfed by it. Paranoid of being burgled, raided or evicted they had simply shut and locked all the doors. Indignant at being judged by society they simply ceased to go out. But the music never stopped. In the both the Grey Gardens documentary and The Beales Of Grey Gardens (cut from leftover footage in 2001) 59 year old Little Edie peers at many vinyl records through her magnifying glass before placing them on an old record player. Orchestrated songs from the 30s and 40s ring through the empty mansion that is decaying far beyond their control. Care-free, Little Edie dances or puts on a fashion parade always with a wry smile to the camera that asks, are you in on the joke? But you know what, the joke is truly on us because Little Edie fiercely understood as emperors like John Galliano appreciate now that it takes TIME to be a glamourous woman, frankly a full-time occupation impossible to be met half-way so Edie just took what was hers. “I have to think all of these things up,” she sighs adjusting her waistband. Edie was bred to joosh up the Bouvier portfolio so is it really her fault that she over-excelled and that the world didn’t follow through on the deal? The never-ending cabaret of colourful and unique outfits worn by both the women is delightful as is the vision of Little Edie introducing her new fad, Perrier (it’s 1974). Her never-ending stream of quotable one-liners have their own cult following. Every sentence that Little Edie says is so heavily layered with the past, counter-suggestion, sarcasm and wit that to the casual viewer she does appear highly delusional and hilarious. It’s a Catch 22: she’s not mad darlings, she’s just been trapped in a mansion for 30years. In conversation, Big Edie brags about how much she had in life while Little Edie grieves missing out on “everything”. Big Edie is a mother ruling her house because she pays all the bills while Little Edie lives as a perpetual debutante despite her 59 years; it’s gut-wrenching stuff wrapped in a comedy of farce, fancy and manners, Little Edie’s tragedy extracted beautifully in one of the Grey Gardens Broadway musical numbers: The summers over But I’m still a girl Covorting in my carnival crown From blossom to blossom I buzz like a bee Then glance in the mirror And who do I see A middle-aged woman inhabiting me Because it’s winter In a summer town All of this psychic and cyclical melodrama is encased in a once beautiful house still painted in pastel pinks, blues, yellows and greens, all echoed by the colours of the nearby sandy beach and Hampton skies. Likewise both Edie’s coat their predicament in bright, elegant quips and choose to see the parts of their life that sparkle as opposed to capitulating to the rot. “That is a beautiful ocean today, isn’t it?” drawls Big Edie as she peers through binoculars past her inconceivably overgrown, jungle-like gardens and on to the distant sea, “What color would you say that was? A sort of sapphire?”
minutes late and dressed in an outfit reportedly more befitting an opera singer (stealing the show again!) cut her out of his will. Big Edie, really only schooled in grace, charm and polite conversation as was befitting to a female of her standing and times wasn’t equipped to survive alone in the world and in 1952 she summoned her daughter back from New York (where Little Edie was pursuing her break as a dancer and actress) to live with her in Grey Gardens. From this day on, in that huge mansion by the sea, time began to stand still. Cut to 1972. After numerous complaints from East Hampton residents, Grey Gardens was raided by the local council. Officials gagged at what they saw. No working heating or plumbing was found. A tree was growing through the roof. A stack of empty cat-food tins stood five feet tall and ran the length of the dining-room. There was animal faeces throughout and evidence of human faeces in one of the upstairs bedrooms. All upholstery was flea infested with numerous cats and raccoons roaming freely through the rooms and walls of the house. The Suffolk County Department of Health declared Grey Gardens unfit for human habitation and threatened to raze it to the ground. Quickly the sensational story hit national headlines and America was flabbergasted while Jacqueline Kennedy, now married to Aristotle Onassis, had to endure the public shame of what had been a private fam-
My Life At Grey Gardens And Beyond, Lois Wright America’s Queen, The Life Of Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Sarah Bradford www.greygardensthemusical.com Grey Gardens, A New Musical Soundtrack www.greygardensonline.com
Libra Man Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan Stylist: Valentina Ilardi
Denim Jeans: DIESEL, Silk underwear: EMPORIO ARMANI UNDERWEAR
Lycra bodysuit: S’MAX MARA, Denim cap sleeve: MAX MARA HOSIERY
Cotton shirt: LEE, Skirt: SPORTMAX, Stockings: WOLFORD
Shirt: MARITHE + FRANCOIS GIRBAUD, Leather belt: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, Womens skirt: MAX MARA
Marko wears jeans: DIESEL. Make-up & Hair-Kaya Kamijo Models: Marko Brozic & Jen Dawson@ Premier London.
Jen wears silk shirt: SPORT MAX, Peach sleeveles jumpsuit: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Fashion Assistant: Dixi Romano
Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Model: Janine Henkes @ Metropolitan
Bykovnia forest, from the series‘Displaced’/ Susan Connie Marsh
What I Wish I Hadn’t Seen At The Beach –
by Mark Edwards.
My girlfriend was like Othello, but ginger. I sensed her narrowing her eyes and watching me. Her sister had just taken all her clothes off and I didn’t know where to look. Fairlight Cove naturist beach was a fifteen-minute skip from the caravan park where I was staying with my girlfriend, Debbie, her sister, Amy, and her friends, Julian and the pregnant Juliana. Debbie had needed some persuading to come. ‘All those girls. Including my sister.’ Two years older than Debbie, Amy once had a poem published. She was blonde and pretty. Debbie loved her, hated her and thought I fancied her. I didn’t – I loved Debbie – but the more I was told I fancied Amy, the more I thought about her. Julian and Juliana were hippies. Juliana was planning to give birth in a cloud of dope smoke. ‘Public nudity equals freedom from the fashion fascists,’ drawled Julian. We followed them to the beach. I wish I hadn’t seen that man bend over and air his haemorrhoids. I wish I hadn’t seen Julian’s crooked cock. I concentrated on the sea. Nudist soup. Fat ones, skinny ones, little kids, old ladies.
‘I’m going to do it,’ giggled Amy. Debbie glared at them. ‘Go on,’ urged Julian.
I watched Amy’s shadow as she pulled off her top; heard her unzip her jeans and wriggle free. My mouth was dry. Wanting to act natural and casual, I turned to talk to Amy. She had perfect breasts and a freckle on her hip. That night, Debbie cried. ‘You shouldn’t have looked.’ ‘I wish I hadn’t.’ ‘But you did.’ She carried on like this all night, sitting outside the caravan.
I sat there and made reassuring noises while picturing her sister’s breasts.
‘ Go on,’ urged Julian.
“When I met Mr Beale; the Jig was up” Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan Stylist: Valentina Ilardi ※ Dress: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, Straw hat: STYLIST’S OWN.
Cotton jacket: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, Alpaca wool skirt: SANDRA BACKLUND, Headband: THE GIRL AND THE GORILLA.
Mink organza dress, flesh tone organza skirt, bronze leather belt: all RICHARD NICOLL. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Shoes: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN for RICHARD NICOLL. Hat: STYLIST’S OWN.
Cotton dress with wooden pegs: SANDRA BACKLUND.
Jersey cap: MUHLBAUER, Jumpsuit: SONIA RYKIEL, Boots:DR. MARTENS.
Make-up & Hair:Martina D’Andrea Model: Maria Host @ D management group Milano Fashion assistant: Dixi Romano & Marta Sara Crescimanno.
Dress: CHRISTIAN DIOR, Skirt: SONIA RYKIEL, Jacket (draped on head): SONIA RYKIEL.
Dress and Python wedge heels: CHRISTIAN DIOR, Helmet: STYLISTS OWN.
Photographer: Mark O’sullivan, Stylist: Adeline Cathelin & Sandrine Gonclaves. Natalia Rassadnikova@Metropolitan, wears >>>>
Paul & Joe
Photographer: Mark o'sullivan, Stylist: Valentina Ilardi, Make-up & Hair: Martina D' Andrea@D management. Agnese Claisse@ Icon rome wears dress by
Luisa Beccaria.
Long Live POLAROID! How can something so dead feel so alive?! As the world laments the end of the instant Polaroid photography, we celebrate its vibrancy by presenting the work of Paris based photographer Raul Diaz. A Chilean who’s rarely seen without a Polaroid camera in his hand, Raul is a man obsessed and possessed by this form of photography. As we wave good-bye, tears in our eyes, here are 10 facts about everybody’s favourite instant camera.
1) Mary Ann Moorman took the infamous ‘Moorman polaroid’ of the kennedy
4) Something of an eccentric inventor who had to be
7) Outcast, Feeder, Cirkus Miramar, Kool Kieth, Alex Ra are just some of
assassination on nov 22nd, 1963. The Polaroid was taken 1/6th of a second
reminded to eat during long brain-storming sessions,
the bands to have name-checked Polaroid in their music while the track
after JFK was shot. She sold the original polaroid on e-bay for $175,000 on jan
Land once wore the same clothes for 18 days straight
So Damn Beautiful by Polaroid appears in the US tv series Nip/Tuck,
20th 2008. It was taken with a Polaroid land camera 80A
whilst solving the problem of commercial production of
Season 1x3.
polaroid film. When assistants became tired they would be
8) Polaroid photographer Raul Diaz has taken an estimated 19,773 polar-
replaced by fresh ones.
oid photos.
5) In February 2008, Polaroid announced the discontinu-
9) He uses 10 different types of polaroid film and over 11 different types
ation of its instant film and will close its factories in the
of polaroid cameras.
2)The SX-70 polaroid camera was used by Andy Warhol and Charles Eames, both of whom saw the creative possibilities of manipulating the light sensitive polaroid paper. 3) Polaroid film and instant photography was developed by Harvard University
United States, Mexico and the Netherlands 10) His polaroids can be seen at
drop-out Edwin H. Land (1909-91) who founded the Polaroid Corporation in 1937. He launched the first Land Camera in 1949.
6) The largest Polaroid camera is the Polaroid 20x24.
http://people.polanoid.net/rrrdiaz
It’s 25.2” wide and 40.94” long and 59.06” high. It
www.lecarton.com
weighs about 200lbs and has bellows.
www.splitsecondcollective.com www.tickl-magazine.com erotic cabinet (vol 2)
Chanel have launched another addition to their Exclusifs range taking the number of this unique perfume collection to eleven identical bottles. Each fragrance tells it's own part of the Chanel story and is directly linked to the life of Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel beginning with the first, Chanel No.22 that she created in 1922 with Earnest Beaux. Bel Respiro and La Pausa were country homes of Coco where she entertained a host of wonderful guests and fascinating, creative creatures. These perfumes contain her memories of them all. No. 31 Rue Cambon is of course named after her first Chanel boutique. The latest fragrance, Sycomore, is a scent that Coco herself planned. Her idea was for a woody fragrance without frills yet with inner stature, this surely reflected her vision for the modern femininity. This scent has been given new life by Chanel's present 'nose' Jacques Polge who kept simplicity and nobility where no fancifulness was needed; a sure treat for lovers of the Exclusifs range. Here, illustrator Daniel David Freeman gives his interpretation of the Exclusifs story. Chanel Exclusifs are only available through Chanel Boutiques. See www.chanel.com for details.
Illustration:Daniel Freedman
Janowska, from the series‘Displaced’/ Susan Connie Marsh
“I haven’t been out of this goddamn horrible place…in two years.” Photography: Mark O’Sullivan Stylist: Benoit Masbonson
Swimwear ERES Hotpants VERONIQUE LEROY Tights WELL Scarf FORNARINA Sandals DUE FARINA Black patened belt EURYTHMIC
White Cardigan LUNDGREN & WINDINGE Dress DSQUARED DONNA Scarf DEVASTEE Shoes BRUNO FRISONI
Turtleneck LUTZ & PATMOS Skirt ISABEL MARANT Scarf MALO, Shoes INDRESS
Short jumpsuit TILLMANN LAUTERBACH Black turtleneck ANNE FONTAINE Sockings WELL White Shoes KARL LAGERFELD Scarf AMERICAN RETRO
Shirt Dress SYLVIA RIELLE Swiwsuit & White belt with strass GIAMBATISTA VALLI Shoes MORGAN Scarf IKOU TSCHUSS
Dress VERONIQUE LEROY Body suit with turtleneck WOLFORD Necklace CORPUS CHRISTI Sandals DUE FARINA Sweater on head BRUNO PIETERS
Openback top COSTUME NATIONAL Shorts ICEBERG Opentoe pumps MORGAN Scarf EPICE Necklace CORPUS CHISTI
Dress ANNE VALERIE HASH Scarf WUNDERKIND Shoes PATRICIA PEPE Make-up: Karin Westerlund Model : Aisha @ Metropoltan
photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Stylist & Model: Ondine Azoulay.
Dress:
opposite page: Dress: MIU MIU, Shoes YVES SAINT LAURENT. MIU MIU, this page: Shoes: ISABEL MARANT, Vintage leather jacket: STYLISTS OWN.
Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Stylists:Adeline Cathelin & Sandrine Gonclaves, Natalia Ruchka@metropolitan wears top and skirt: , Hat: BRIGITTE CAMPAGNE.
SONIA RYKIEL
Photographer:Mark O’Sulivan, Stylists:Adeline Cathelin & Sandrine Gonclaves, Natalia Ruchka @ metropolitan wears Dress:
PAULE KA, Sunglasses: LINDA FARROW.
ILLUSTRATION/ KRSN
“I'm
Mad About Kostelanetz” Photographer: Pablo Arroyo Stylist: Valentina Ilardi
DRESS WITH SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL COLLAR : SOFT CORE BY SERGIO ZAMBON; SUNGLASSES WITH SWAROVSKI BROOCH:
ALAIN MIKLI BY BLESS.
Black & white lace dress, flesh tone & white lace skirt all SOFT CORE by SERGIO ZAMBON Boots & Handbag MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Floral print dress 6267 Lace skirt SOFT CORE by SERGIO ZAMBON Boots MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA.
Ruffled Shining Brown Cap: MUHLBAUER; Brown Cotton/Silk Knitted Cardigan With Tubolar Belt And Tubolar Satin Ribbon On Neckline: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA; Bicolor Patent Leather Shoes: SOFT CORE BY SERGIO ZAMBON; Multi-Bangle Necklace: IOSSELLIANI.
MAKE UP + HAIR STYLING: ASTOR HOXHA @ CLOSE UP MILANO MODEL: ZENIA SEVASTYANOVA@WHYNOT MILANO FASHION ASSISTANT: MARTA SARA CRESCIMANNOabout Kostelanetz
Photographer:Mark O’Sullivan, Stylist: Valentina Ilardi, Make-up & Hair: Martina D'Andrea Agnese Claisse @ Icon Rome, wears Dress & Headpiece:
ASHISH
Make-up & hair: Martina D'Andrea Greta Pilipauskaite@ metropolitan wears, Dress: Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Stylist: Valentina Ilardi, Agnese Claisse @ icon Rome, wears Jersey tank top, Buckle sandals:
MARIOS SCHWAB, Leggings: AMERICAN APPAREL.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Contributors
Self Portrait: Hana-Kaisa Korolainen
Adeline Cathelin & Sandrine Goncalvès
Gwen Jamois
Peppe Tortora
Adeline and Sandrine share projects that involve video and contemporary dance. Adeline is a freelance designer specialising in lingerie and swimwear for brands such as George Rech, John Galliano and Roberto Cavalli. Sandrine writes about art and design for Art and Living magazine (USA). She was introduced to fashion through ICONfly magazine. The girls have been very busy styling our Christian Lacroix, Paul & Joe, Paule Ka and Sonia Rykiel images and we love the results - thanks ladies.
DJ, composer and rare record collector Gwen Jamois (aka Iueke) is one half of French house duo, Black Devil Disco Club with Bernard Fevre. A cross between music professor and cosmic noise scientist, Gwen specialises in musique concrète and in 2008 played two five hour concrète sets, on five record decks in Holland and Germany - an experience not for the feint hearted! When not making music you can bet Gwen will be drinking Sancerre in the sun on his favorite terrace somewhere in Paris.
Rome's proud Neapolitan, Peppe is a man with passion for everything that he does. He teaches portraiture at the Istituto Europeo di Design. He’s the photo editor of Fefe visual magazine, a photographer and a musician. For this issue Peppe photographed Carlo Prada (fashion Journalist) for our back cover Margiella shoot.
Benoit Masbonson
Pablo Arroyo
Benoit has been first assistant to Dice Kayek for two years. He's also freelance fashion editor for Grazia Italie, Intersection, Squint, Pig and West East. Benoit had fun styling the shoot named 'I haven't been out of this goddamn horrible place… in two years'
Pablo Shot our cover story "I'm mad about Kostelanetz" Born in Mexico City, he left at 18 to work as a graphic designer in Italy. He began photography at 22, and has shot for Italian Vogue. Pablo loves Frida, photography, fashion, and Val.
Ondine Azoulay Princess L.A loves’ Paris, Miu Miu, dancing and men in Mexican wrestling costumes. Ondine studied fashion at studio Bercot and now has the enviable position as associate fashion and beauty editor at Self Service magazine.
Ayako Iijima Former Miss Japan Ayako, studied at Atelier Chardon Savard and has since assisted several stylists for magazines such as Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle Japon and Numero. She sorted us out with Lanvin and styled the most amazing shoot with Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello for Playboy France.
Karin Westerlund Ex-model from Stockholm, after studying art and photography Karin traveled a bit, lived in Mexico then decided to become a make-up artist, for which she studied in Stockholm. "The two best decisions I have made in my life were to become a make-up artist and to move to Paris". Apart from art, illustration, music, fashion and people watching, Karin is very inspired by friends, especially other make-up artists and photographers. Jan Garet /KRSN Jan is responsible for the beautiful Grey Garden illustrations in this issue. He is a very kind person, living with 24 canaries in the middle of the red quarter of Paris. He’s looking for some adidas zx 220 size 8’5, if someone has them please get in touch.
Photographer: Mark O’Sullivan, Stylists:Adeline Cathelin & Sandrine Gonclaves, Natalia Rassadnikova @ metropolitan wears Dress, shoes
Christian Lacroix
Oumar Fall Documentary photographer Oumar Fall was born in Dakar, Senegal (1961) He started taking photographs at the age of 12, with a Zenith camera bought back from Lebanon by one of his older brothers who was serving in the war. After finishing his studies in 1978, he became the assistant to Senegalese filmmaker Madama Traoré. He began his career in photography by taking pictures for local Dakar newspapers, focusing on urban African life. Oumar's work has often been published in Afrique Magazine as well as having work commissioned by UNESCO. He now lives in Paris & is currently working on a series photographing African women working & living in Paris. Primarily shooting with black and white film these 3 portraits where chosen from a series depicting suffering on the streets of Senegal.
The Hallucinations of Edie. Under the influence is excited to introduce an exclusive mix by French DJ and producer Iueke (one half of Black Devil Disco Club) entitled ‘The Hallucinations of Edie’. We gave Iueke the Maysles Brothers documentaries plus footage of John Galliano’s catwalk show for Dior spring/summer 08 for reference and inspiration and he constructed a supremely seductive gem of musical cut-up and re-edits. We invite you to steal thirty minutes to sit back and sink into a hot tranquil summer at the Grey Gardens mansion where, with 5 o’clock Martini cocktails, the lines “between the past and the present”, the 30s through to the 70s slink by in a haze of disconnected thought, dreams and imagined eccentric pageantry. On a trip to NYC in the 70s, the Maysles Brothers introduced Little Edie to Andy Warhol to which Iueke has acknowledged with a real vinyl rarity, a recording of the inimitable Warhol Superstar Jackie Curtis giving a powerhouse rendition of ‘Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas’. Curtis’ delivery adds layers of indefinable magic to the lyrics. Listen to the mix here: http://iueke.com/uti/hallucinations_of_Edie.mp3 ※
Iueke adds his own notes to the track listing: 1. Doctor says ‘huh’ 1978 The text is originally performed (before re-edits) by Gail Williams of The Cincinnati Artists Group Effort (C.A.G.E.) Background music is a Classic, melancholic track by soundtrack maestro Bruno Nicolai (Morricone’s mentor) from a rare music library only LP (CAM 1070). Nicolai sadly took to the shadows after been involved in a sex scandal. 2. Kenward Elmslie ‘the woolworth song’ 1978 NY Kenward’s poetry and prose is often combined with the graphical work of other artists. A collection of his writing, Motor Disturbance (1971), won the Frank O’Hara Award for Poetry in 1971. Here we hear that the boy can sing. 3.Erik Thygesen - Passions-Surfaces - For Cecilia Stam 1968 Madam Stam made her Debut at the Eurovision song contest, here she is guided by Erik, a Swedish man of stories, essays and translations on a sentimental piece on the eternal triangle. Once again the added backround music is from my vast collection of unknown music details on request :P 4. Arne Mellnäs - Far Out (Portrait Of Laura Nyro) 1969 Swedish composer Arne Mellnäs delivers a wonderful tribute to song legend Laura Nyro - Todd Rundgren famously stated that, once he heard her, he “stopped writing songs like The Who and started writing songs like Laura”. Go Todd.. Nyro is mixed with the poetry of Mona Da Vinci - excerpt from “the sacred wood art: the last super of Mona Da Vinci” NY 74. A true pioneer of feminist based art. 5.Anthony J. Gnazzo - Hisnia & Hernia - CA 1975 A beautiful piece from an avant-garde poet extraordinaire. Joined on re-edited drums and electronic-ness by Teutonic drummer Klaus Weiss from an LP called ‘27’ - Vegetable Poet Novelist On Cello. 6.Jackie Curtis - ‘Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas” NY 1976
SHOPPING: 6267
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Alain Mikli by Bless www.bless-service.de American Retro www.americanretro.fr Ann Fontaine www.annefontaine.com Ann Valerie Hash www.anne-valerie-hash.com Ashish www.ashish.co.uk Azzedine Alaia tel. +33 (0)1 42 72 19 19 Bruno Pieters Bruno Frisoni
www.brunopieters.com www.brunofrisoni.com
Chanel www.chanel.com Christian Dior www.dior.com Christian Lacroix www.christian-lacroix.fr Corpus Christi www.corpuschristi.fr Costume National www.costumenational.com David Szeto Devastee Dorothee Simonnet Dries Van Noten Due Farina Epice  Eres Eurythmic
www.doverstreetmarket.com www.devastee.free.fr dorotheecharlotte@hotmail.fr www.driesvannoten.be www.due-farina.com +1 (212) 302 9399 www.eresparis.com en.flip-zone.com/eurythmic
Giambatista Valli www.giambattistavalli.com Guess by Marcianoà www.guess.com Iceberg Indress Iosselliani Isabel Marant Ikou Tschuss
www.iceberg.com www.indress.ne www.iosselliani.com www.isabelmarant.tm.fr www.ikoutschuss.com
Junko Shimada www.junkoshimada.com Karl Lagerfeld Kazuyuki Kumagai Lanvin Linda Farrow Luisa Beccaria Maison Martin Margiela Malo Marios Schwab Miu Miu Muhlbauer
www.karllagerfeld.com www.totemfashion.com www.lanvin.com www.lindafarrowvintage.com www.luisabeccaria.it Lundgren & Windingeà
www.maisonmartinmargiela.com www.malo.it www.mariosschwab.com www.miumiu.com www.muehlbauer.at
Paul&Joe Paule Ka Patricia Pepe Peter Pilotto Richard Nicoll Rock & Republic
www.paulandjoe.com www.pauleka.com www.patriziapepe.com www.peterpilotto.com www.richardnicoll.com www.rockandrepublic.com
Sandra Backlund www.sandrabacklund.com Soft Core by Sergio Zambon softcore@softcore06.it Sonia Rykiel www.soniarykiel.com Swarovski www.swarovski.com Sylvia Rielle www.sylviarielle.com Tillmann Lauterbach
www.tillmannlauterbach.com
Veronique Leroy Vivienne Westwood
www.veroniqueleroy.com www.viviennewestwood.co.uk
Well Wolford Wunderkind
www.well.fr www.wolford.com www.wunderkind.de
Yves Saint Laurent
Janine Henkes @ metropolitan.
www.ysl.com
Azzedine Ala誰a
Photographer & Stylist: Mark O'Sullivan Model: Greta@metropolitan
Turban:
Dorothee Simonnet, shirt : Kazuyuki Kumagai.
David Szeto
Photographer: Mark O'Sullivan, Make-up & Hair: Jabe @ Ann Ramirez.
DAVID SZETO
MARTIN MARGIELA