Harvest goes full noise

Clean, high-quality fruit, decent weather, and a full contingent of staff has wine industry veterans calling this year’s harvest one of the best for fruit quality in years. The culmination of a year’s hard work, Marlborough’s vintage is now in full swing with high hopes for a stellar crop of Sauvignon Blanc.

And with acidity levels and sugars all on track, the vintage is ready to shift up a gear.

Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative membership manager Craig Thomson says this year it’s a classic, old school Marlborough harvest.

“We’ve had some early ones [harvests] over the last few years,” he says.

characterised by concentrated fruit and good quality – although the yields are down a bit from last year.

“Last year was quite a bumper crop,” he says. At Hunters, their sparkling is racked and ready for blending, first ferments are underway, and pinot has gone to barrel – with more to come.

“I’m looking forward to making the wine,” says Inus.

Labour Shortage

Years of border disruptions due to the Covid-19 pandemic saw the wine industry’s transient workforce locked out of the country.

Now, with the borders open, employers are happy to see the “experienced” cellar staff back on the ground for harvest.

“During lockdown, we had some labour issues,” says Inus.

“Now, we have quite a few travellers coming and helping out. Italians, Canadians, UK.

“It’s good to have labour coming in and doing a vintage with us.

He says an average growing season in Marlborough has put picking dates to where they would normally be.

“Sauvignon Blanc near the end of March, and really getting into it in the first weeks of April,” says Craig.

The Grape Growers Cooperative is owned by about 80 members, with all profits going back into the vineyard.

Craig says the fruit condition is surprisingly good, given recent rain events.

“The fruit’s holding up very well.” Hunters wine maker Inus van der Westhuizen echoes Craig, and says, so far, this year’s harvest is

“It’s helpful for the region to have that support.”

Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens says while they don’t know the exact number, there’s at least 1000 more people in Marlborough during harvest.

He says the labour supply this is better by far.

“Better with experience levels, people who have worked in wineries, or even worked here before coming back.

“It has a massive impact on stress levels and probably wine quality as well.

Marcus says the last few years have been war of attrition, with labour and cost increases.

“We’ve learnt about how we can improve our offer and brought some good results.”

Vintage Harvesters viticulturist and logistics manager Melissa Tripe says she’s happy to see the back of Covid restrictions and more people in Marlborough.

“It’s great to see the internationals bringing flavour and fun to the town.

“A lot of the foreigners are really experienced; we’ve missed that expertise – particularly in the wineries.”

Vintage Harvesters supply contract vineyard machinery work and have several harvesters going around the clock.

“Last year was tough, but this year we have a full complement [of staff]. Even wait lists. It’s much improved.

“It’s a hard job. It’s long hours, and there’s a lot of pressure to get the crop in timely and in good condition.

“Having adequate labour force is hugely important.

“When you’re dealing with a perishable crop, it won’t last forever. Having the people here makes it possible to do it.”

Accomodation

With more people in the region, and a housing market with an already tight supply, finding space for vintage workers has been a challenge.

Melissa says accommodation continues to be a major problem – particularly for the temporary workforce coming for harvest. “It’s hard for them to find places to stay,” she says.

Some bring caravans and stay at campgrounds, she says, others stay at backpackers. Truck drivers often stay at motels.

“We try and rent houses to assist with that and have three or four people in a house. It’s awkward, but that’s just how it is.”

Marcus says harvest brings a lot of pressure on housing in Marlborough.

“I’m guessing people might be hesitant to offer rooms, people are still getting Covid,” he says. Traditionally, a lot of vintage workers would be billeted out into the community.

“I think there’s been more care from wineries where they are placing their people. What might have flown a few years ago isn’t necessarily acceptable for the wineries now.

“It does potentially reduce the number of beds.”

The Weather

As the weather turns autumnal, Marlburians can expect crisp, cold nights and sunny days – weather grapes also love. Craig says vines are looking green and fresh, with the canopies in good health.

What rain we’ve had hasn’t been an issue, he says.

“We’ve had three rains since harvest started. But so far, so good –it hasn’t really had an impact on Botrytis levels.

“One rain, it was a really cold air temperature – and the next day warm drying winds.

“The weather is relatively settled, with short, spread-out rain events.

“When you talk to growers, they’re saying the fruit is looking as good as it ever has – that’s across the board. It’s great.

“The fruit’s holding up really well.”

Inus says at Hunter’s, they may be finishing vintage slightly earlier than last year.

“We had some unpleasant weather on our starting,” he says.

“The yields are a little bit down –but that’s across the region.”

Inus says rain during flowering season is to blame for the lower yield.

“We’re happy at the moment, as long as we don’t have more unpleasant weather.”

Marcus says it has been a challenging summer for grape growers.

“The El Nina has not been ideal – it wasn’t a classic Marlborough summer,” he says.

“There were much-reduced sunshine hours with wet periods. The start we had was not ideal.

“But the weather seems to have switched when we really needed it.”

Marcus says everyone in the industry is doing their best to get the best quality.

“Everyone wants to go at it full noise, but most companies are waiting for the fruit to get into the zone.”