CITY EINSTEIN JANUARY 2015
BERLIN
PEOPLE
ART
TRAVEL
CULTURE
LIFESTYLE
DESIGN
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EDITOR’S LETTER This months issue centres on the confident and cool city of Berlin, Germany. Now one of Europe’s most-visited cities, Berlin is fast becoming a “creative hub for artists, writers and musicians” (Timeout Guide). It seems to have an endless selection of cultural happenings including artistic design projects like the superb Bauhaus architectural museum - of which the Soho House is inspired by (page 41). The modern metropolis includes many great historical locations such as the Brandenburg Gate (page 38) and the infamous Berlin Wall (page 46). Yet we must not forget to look to the future of this city, which holds a strong point over the design and lifestyle sectors (pages 8 and 38). For it is these industries which shall be strengthening the city and energising its economy prospectively.
/ MARTHA DOBBERSON /
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CONTENTS
EDITOR’S LETTER / 3 BERLIN STREET STYLE / 8 FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS: CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE / 20 COFFEE + INTERIORS / 27 DESIGNER OF THE MONTH REVIEW: ANDREA SCHELLING / 30 HISTORY IN THE MAKING / 38 MOODBOARD OF THE MONTH: SOHO HOUSE, BERLIN / 41
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BERLIN STREET STYLE This winter, there was a clearly evident masculinity in the way the women of Berlin dressed, ranging from oversized ‘boyfriend’ pieces to
normcore and sportswear trends. The latter two also dominated the menswear on the streets, with the shoe trend of the moment, New Balance’s Classic 574s, taking a stronghold over the city. The outfits were most often casual combined with an element of smart, clean tailoring. Textures of ripped denim, leather and wool were suggested through the many layers of the outfits. Muted palettes of black, grey, khaki and beige were prominent and matched the cold autumn morning. Each outfit spoke effortless, thoughtful and individual style.
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FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE Comfortable yet cosmopolitan. Practical yet elegant. Simplistic yet detailed. These pairs were unlikely juxtapositions, until
French designer Christophe Lemaire showcased his AW14/15 collection. Artistic Director of Womenswear at Hermés, and former Creative Director of Lacoste, it’s safe to say Lemaire knows what he’s doing. His supremely cut pieces work effortlessly in their large volumes of material and draped perfection. This aspect of the collection is what intrigued me most. The varying textures and strong lines created in the garments were ideal for illustrating, as areas could be left simple and ordered, whereas others could be filled with detail. The combination of realistic materials such as
denim with the luxuriance of cashmere and Yak wool, offers the product of intelligent utilitarianism with the cool vibes of a style conscious Parisian.
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Berliner Dom
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COFFEE + INTERIORS
In the centre of Berlin’s gallery district Rosa-Luxemburg Platz, lies a coffee shop. Not your standard, commercialised coffee shop, but more of an area of unfinished wooden surfaces, chalkboards and vintage stools. Welcome to The Barn, where the surroundings aren’t the only unconventional aspect of the café. This extraordinary coffee shop, where laptops and loud noises are kept to a minimum, holds a strong emphasis on enjoying the coffee and the company you are with. Open since June 2010, The Barn is a sustainable business using premium seasonal coffee beans and the high quality creation of a reduced selection of coffees. They have rigid rules on how you should drink your coffee (no sugar or soy milk F.Y.I) and pride themselves on being “quickly established as one of the leading ‘Specialty Coffee Roasters’ in Germany”. Despite the strict philosophy, The Barn offers a great atmosphere and aesthetic to enjoy your coffee, especially with the attention to detail shown in the latte art.
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DESIGNER OF THE MONTH REVIEW ANDREA SCHELLING Although far from new to the
Berlin fashion scene, it was exciting for me to discover a new couture designer whilst on a trip to the German city in November last year. The artist in question, Andrea Schelling (a native to Berlin), has been creating bespoke couture wear delicate to the touch for over 30 years now. Her garments are both sensual and poetic and
each individual piece clearly tells its own story. I was invited to her studio on a cold and dull afternoon, which was soon turned around by the bright and charming space in which she works. The creative energy was vivid during my visit, as whilst I spoke to her assistant (an Israeli fashion intern) Schelling continued to work on current
garments, one of which was for a wellknown Korean opera singer. The wide
jewels and embroidery. The experience
selection of dresses and other apparel
was truly eye opening to the time and
varied in colour, yet all portrayed a
attention to detail spent on one off
remarkable sense of tactile finishing’s. The
couture pieces as well as to the passion
magical pieces were adorned in an
and dedication many designers,
embellishment of feathers, sequins,
including Schelling, put into their work. 32
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The Holocaust Memorial, Berlin
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HISTORY IN THE MAKING November 9th marked an important date in Berlin’s calendar - the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. The city held special open-air events in commemoration of the 138 people that died crossing the wall and the freedom the people of Berlin now have. This historic year was celebrated at a selection of 6 locations in Berlin, including the Brandenburg gate (pictured opposite and below), through a ‘citizen’s party’, a performance by Peter Gabriel and the release of 8,000 white balloons into the night sky. Each helium balloon was released singularly as a symbol of each life that was brave enough to cross the ‘Iron Wall’. This event was accompanied by the playing of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony “Ode to Joy” by the Berlin State Orchestra. The fall of the Berlin wall marked the end of the Cold War and communist state of the East of Berlin. Angela Merkel, chancellor of Berlin, described to German TV channels that she had “an incredible feeling of happiness” during the event, which welcomed tens of thousands of people during the weekend of festivities.
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MOODBOARD OF THE MONTH SOHO HOUSE, BERLIN
The historic building of the Soho House is situated in the heart of Berlin, surrounded by contemporary art galleries and classic German coffee shops. It offers a rooftop pool with a superb panoramic view of the capital city’s skyline as well as an Italian-American bistro restaurant. The Club Bar creates a glamorous setting with its vintage seating booths and bar stools and the 20s inspired Screening room is truly self-indulgent. The Soho House individually designs each of its rooms, which are luxuriously furnished and leave subtle hints of nostalgia in their design. This symmetrical Bauhaus-influenced piece of architecture holds a large collection of art and design books and displays vinyl records hidden amongst the deep mahogany work surfaces and masculine leather sofas. This inquisitive hotel empowers the rich art and interiors of the last century, whilst simultaneously updating them to the modern era and oozing coolness. 43
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Sophie Tottie, Written Language XIII (2009)
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