STREETWEAR by Tino Cimmermans

KING OF THE YOUTH

· Legit check · Established

P. 7 - P. 9

P. 11 - P. 15

· Serious brands

P. 17 - P. 47

· The basement

P. 49 - P. 61

· Ian & Ass pizza

P. 63 - P. 67

· All gone

P. 69 - P. 73

Legit check Streetwear is fashion that is considered to have emerged not from studios, but from the grassroots. Streetwear is generally associated with youth culture, and is most often seen in major urban centers. Streetwear is a distinctive style of street fashion. STARTED in Californian surf and skate culture, it has grown to encompass elements of hip hop fashion, Japanese street fashion and since a couple of years modern HIGH FASHION.

Streetwear clothing is VERY difficult to define, even by those who wear it. This may be because, as its name suggests, streetwear is largely a grassroots fashion movement influenced by what is currently happening “on the streets,” and is constantly evolving. It is possible to isolate a few general principles of streetwear, however. First of all, it is usually centered upon casual, comfortable pieces such as jeans, t-shirts, baseball caps, and sneakers. It is also influenced by hip-hop and skateboarding styles as well as 1980s nostalgia, and often features bold colors, graphic prints, and retro designs and logos. Many streetwear clothing FANS say that the movement emerged in the late 20th century as a reaction to mass-produced “mall” style. While it took some of its inspiration from existing hip-hop and skateboarding fashions. By creating their own looks, streetwear proponents felt they had established an alternative to “mall” fashion. It is perhaps ironic, that by the early 21st century, many mass-produced fashion brands had a lot of streetwear influences.

As the streetwear clothing movement is constantly evolving, it is difficult to catalog the specific pieces which belong to it. In general, however, streetwear style is often built around casual, comfortable basics such as jeans, t-shirts, baseball caps, and sneakers. In addition to skateboarding and hip-hop, streetwear clothing is often also influenced by 1980s nostalgia. streetwear pieces often feature bold graphic prints in bright colors and retro logos.

Usually, streetwear fashion is thought of as a movement of the people that has no strict rules and is always changing. These democratic associations do not necessarily translate to affordable clothes, however. One of the core elements of streetwear clothing is limited- or collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-edition pieces, such as limited edition sneakers from major athletic brands. Purchasing and wearing such hard to cop pieces helps streatwear clothing enthusiasts display individuality and avoid looking like a member of the masses. 9

Established As with many grassroots cultural movements, streetwear has been notoriously difficult to define. there are also a lot of diffrent meanings about the establishment of streetwear. But the movement as we know it today started in the late 1970s / early 1980s in california.

The movement is generally accepted to have been born out of the Los Angeles surf culture of the late 1970s / early 1980s. Local surfboard designer Shawn Stussy began selling printed T-shirts featuring the same trademark signature he placed on his custom surfboards. selling the items from his own car, Stussy expanded sales to boutiques once popularity increased. Stussy’s move into exclusive sales firmed up the baseline definition of streetwear: taking

“a multi-faceted, subculturally diverse, Southern California lifestylebased T-shirt brand and the limited feel of a high-end luxury brand.... those are the two most integral components of what makes a brand streetwear: T-shirts and exclusivity.”

High Fashion VS. STreetwear. Shawn stussy began streetwear as we now it today. but there were some streetwear related brands a few years earlier.

Serious brands In streetwear, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the brands. There are a couple of leading streetwear brands, located all over the world.

Supreme, New York

Supreme, a skateboarding shop/clothing brand established in New York City in April 1994. The brand was originally founded by James Jebbia. He was born in the United states and lived in England until he was nineteen. The first Supreme store opened on Lafayette Street in downtown Manhattan in 1994. It was designed with skaters in mind, with a unique design on the store layout; the clothes arranged around the outside of the store with a large space in the middle. This meant that skaters with backpacks on could skate right into the store. In 2004, a store was opened in Los Angeles, California, which is almost double the size of the original New York store and also includes an indoor skate bowl. There are other stores in London, Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, and Fukouka. in the spring of 2016, supreme opened a new store in paris.

The red box logo containing “Supreme” in Futura Heavy Oblique is largely based on Barabara Kruger’s propaganda art. 18

The brand looks at Skateboarding, hip-hop and Punk Rock cultures, and the youth culture itself. They make clothes and accessories, but also manufacture skateboards that are collected like modern art. Supreme has released skateboard decks featuring the artworks of KAWS, Larry Clark, Jeff Koons, Damian Hirst. Unlike other clothing brands, who release their new collections all at once, Supreme releases a small number of items at a time, typically five to fifteen. This “drop” occurs online at 11 am local time in America. This strategy maintains the “hype” that the brand creates. Their clothing, and accessories create a big secondary market for supreme clothing, because items are produced to a very limited quantity and also because there are only nine stores worldwide. Supreme has a line of collaborations with brands such as Nike, Air Jordan, Vans, Clarks, The North Face, Playboy, Levi’s, Timberland, Comme des Garcons, as well as many more. Fashion photographer Terry Richardson has produced some of the most notable pieces which include photographs of Michael Jordan, Kermit the Frog, Three Six Maffia, Lou Reed, Lady gaga, Kate Moss and Neil Young.

Barbara Krugers, Propaganda art

Stüssy, Los Angeles

“Pants and shirts... and jackets and hats.” Stüssy is a clothing brand and private company started in the early 1980s by Shawn Stussy. The company is one of many that benefited from the surfwear trend originating in Orange County, California, but it has largely been adopted by the streetwear and hip-hop scenes. Some will say that Stussy started the whole Streetwear movement. The logo which has defined the brand started in the early 1980s after Shawn Stussy and his assistant, Christian Anicete began scrawling their surnames on his handcrafted surfboards with a marker. He began using the logo on Tshirts, shorts and caps that he sold out of his car. The signature was derived from that of his uncle, Jan Stussy. In 1984, Stussy and his friend, Frank Sinatra Jr. (not related to the singer),partnered to sell the apparel.The company expanded to Europe by 1988 and later opened a boutique store in SoHo, New York. The brand continued to open successful locations throughout the 1990s. 24

In 1996, Stussy resigned as president of the company and Sinatra bought his share of the company holdings. The design department has since been headed up by Creative Director, Nick Bower. According to the company’s website, the brand is available in company branded stores and other retailers in Europe, Asia, the United States, Canada and Australia. The early success of the brand has been attributed to its popularity in the hip-hop DJ and Skater / Surf scenes. The brand was also embraced by Punks and other street subcultures. In a 1992 interview Stussy said:

“Everybody calls it surf wear, or urban street wear, or surf street... I don’t name it, and I don’t name it on purpose.”

PATTA, AMSTERDAM

Out of love and need Patta opened its doors in 2004. Situated right in the city heart of Amsterdam, the store literally became the center of attention by bringing new excitement to the Dutch street wear scene. Founded by Edson Sabajo and Guillaume ‘Gee’ Schmidt as a means to provide themselves, as well as their friends and family with a steady supply of footwear and gear, that which has started as a hobby, is now a thriving business and recognizable brand. Both prominent figures in the Dutch Hip-Hop scene in the 90’s and early 2000’s, Edson as a DJ and Gee as host/MC, it was these common interests that grew into a strong friendship and business partnership. They traveled to other countries hunting for sneakers and records, making tons of international friends along the way.

The team traveled across the planet with cash in their pockets, visiting obscure sneaker stores and buying all of the footwear that was unavailable to the Dutch public. Without any shipping accounts or even the knowledge, they posted huge boxes of shoes back to their hometown. The just-do-it-yourself mentality and the willingness to go against the grain are the foundation of Patta’s identity.

Aside from footwear brands such as Nike, adidas, Converse, ASICS, Reebok, KangaROOS, New Balance and Diadora, you can also find products from brands like StĂźssy, Rockwell and offcourse Pattaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own clothing brand. When Patta started out, the logo was used to make a small batch of t-shirts for friends, family and loyal customers. As demand was higher than expected, more were made and eventually evolved into our iown brand. Starting out small with a capsule in the summer of 2011 available at five retailers worldwide, the collection has grown exponentially in size, quality and availability with 15 retailers stocking the brand.

PIET PARRA, LOGO

After 8 years at the original location, Patta is now located on the historical Zeedijk and in the direct area of Chinatown, Red Light District and Central Station. Having surrounded them selves with a diverse and loyal team over the years, more ideas, concepts, products and collaborations with various brands are soon to follow, as growth and expansion continues...

Palace, London

In 2010, British professional skateboarder Lucien Clarke left his American sponsor, Element, for a unkown British company called Palace. It was a little like a promising programmer leaving Microsoft for a Silicon Valley startup; at the time, Palace, the brainchild of a 27 year old Londoner named Lev Tanju, was coverered in mystery. The company’s name, was a sarcastic reference to the London skate shops.

The full name for the skate crew was “Palace Wayward Boys Choir”

As most streetwear brands, palace is also a started as a skateboard brand. Lev Tanju started out Palace to give his friends a steady paycheck every month so they could do what they do best. The Logo is made by Fergus Purcell, tattoo artist and Graphic designer. Who allready worked with Alexander mcQuen and is a well know name in the fashion scene. Palace also did a lot of collaborations during the years. The umbro collab was a rare collaboration for a streetwear brand, because umbro is a football brand. but made them very known in a other culture. After that the collab with Adidas followed and Palace blew up.

Some people say that Palace is gonna be the new Supreme, with more and more campers every drop.

A bathing ape, Tokyo

Bathing Ape (or BAPE), a Japanese clothing brand founded by Nigo, in 1993. Maybe one of the most commercial streetwear brands there is. The brand specializes in men’s, women’s and children’s lifestyle and street wear, running 19 stores in Japan, including Bape Stores, Bape Pirate Stores, Bape Kids Stores, Bape xclusive Aoyama, and Bapexclusive Kyoto, There are also stores located in Hong Kong, New york, Taipei, Bangkok. The company previously operated Bape Cuts hair salon, Bape Café, and Foot Soldier. Nigo also founded the clothing lines “AAPE”, and “BAPY” (resurrected in 2010), the female “couture” clothing line.

Later on Nigo also teamed up with Pharrell Williams and co founded Billionairs boys club and ice cream.

Nigo, founder and owner, After studying fashion editing at college, he worked as an editor and a stylist for Popeye magazine. After borrowing four million yen from an acquaintance, who also let him use his shop, he opened “Nowhere”, his first store, on April 1, 1993 in Harajuku, Tokyo. Deciding to start his own brand, he named it after the 1968 film Planet of the Apes. According to Nigo, the name “BAPE” is a reference to “A Bathing Ape in Lukewarm Water”. To expose the brand he gave T-shirts to Cornelius who wore them when performing. For two years he produced 30 to 50 shirts a week, selling half and giving half to friends. On February 1, 2011, it was announced that A Bathing Ape had been sold to Hong Kong fashion conglomerate I.T Group. I however, A Bathing Ape founder Nigo will remain on board as the Creative Director for the next two years.

Bape is a popular brand among ce lebrities. Its not that well known in Europe. But is one of the biggest streetwear brands in Asia.

The basement Where can you go to find out if anyone has a pair of the Kanye-designed Black Yeezy Boosts for sale in your size, get tickets for Banksyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dismaland or get personal advice on which outfits to pack for your next holiday?

The basement

First started as an offshoot of Supreme Talk UK/EU (a Facebook group dedicated to discussion on the cult streetwear brand), The Basement is a page that has grown into a community of its own, helped by the personal touch of Facebook over of the anonymity of other digital forums. Whether asking for ‘legit checks’ or showing off their latest steals, its members aren’t a far cry from the Fashion Spot users who have a passion for tracking down models, or the Redditors who discuss obsessively how amped they are to wear their new fall coats.

But perhaps most importantly, as hundred comment meme threads demonstrate – they don’t take things too seriously.

They may have got attention earlier this year for attempts to return a Palace hat ‚stolen’ by Instagram fashion icon Ian Connor to its rightful owner, but beyond its moral crusades, The Basement has branched out into its own t-shirts, Fight Club style soap and even a successful recent London pop up. Its founder, Peter Mitchell, sees it as a family, a place where you can engage in fashion whatever kind of money you have in your wallet. As for how he manages a group this size? “We just boss it,” he explains. “But on a real, we have a good team of admins that will ban people that don’t follow the rules of the group.

The rain couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t keep the campers away This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Supreme Spring/Summer collection has been hotly anticipated by many. That much was obvious, as the weather in the Soho streets was disgusting. The Basement was on the scene to grab some shots of the hardcore Supreme heads in London braving the cold, wind and rain.

Streetwear dictionary As many other subcultures, the basement is using there own language on the internet. These are a few examples;

LEGIT CHECK : [leg · it tjek] · Looking of the item is original and not fake.

WAYWT : [W.A.Y.W.T.] · What Are You Wearing Today?

BIN : [B.I.N.] · Buy It Now price

WTS : [W.T.S.] · Want To Sell

WTB : [W.T.B.] · Want To Buy

WTT : [W.T.T.] · Want To Trade 60

CAMPING : [kemp · ing] · Waiting infront of a store for a new release.

PFA : [P.F.A.] · Picture For Attention

TAGGED PHOTO : [tegg · ed foto] · with a name tag (To proof the item is yours)

B : [BE] · BUMP (If you wanna keep intouch with the post)

RESELLING : [RI · SELL · ING] · Selling garments for a higher price then the actual resell price

Ian & Ass pizza Streetwear is a subcultre roothed by the youth. In New York you have a few role models who turned into stylist over the past few years. Dressing famous artist from Kanye West upto Asap Rocky and Wiz Khalifa.

Ian Connor

The self-proclaimed ‘King of the Youth’ Standing 5’5” and skinny as a rail, Connor is not your typical model

“I’m literally shaped like a 10 year old boy” Indeed, the 22-year-old also is a creative consultant, fashion guru, social media maven, member of A$AP MOB roommate of Fredo Santana. With a rare existential confidence, a true DGAF ( Dont Give A Fuck) attitud. he has amassed a massive social following and earned consultant work (stylist) with everyone from Kanye West to Kylie Jenner and Wiz Khalifa. Clearly, the self-described King of the Youth is doing something right.

Ass Pizza

It’s not always easy to tell when a 16-yearold is fucking with you. Austin Butts A.K.A Asspizza, the Queens-born artist/designer/ high schooler with a preternaturally strong command of social media, But he isn’t,

“I’m just trying to be myself” Asspizza has an allure that transcend his age, but at heart he’s still a teenager: “Fuck school,” he’ll tweet, and get hundreds of likes. His drawings are gestural and childish and he doesn’t care if they’re done in sharpie or ketchup. Somehow, Asspizza’s network is stretching beyond his young-but-influential inner circle, which includes Luka Sabat, Mike the ruler, and Gianni Mora, It all started online. but with a growing fan base that includes artists like ILoveMakonnen, Lorde and Theophilus London. His name and clothing style is rising, and fast.

All gone Since 2006, La MJCâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s All Gone has been the go to source for a look at the best streetwear culture has had to offer over the previous 12 months. This year All Gone celebrated there ten years in the business with a special some up of the last 10 years.

INTERVIEW Michael Dupouy, co founder of the communication agency La MJC, author and publisher of the All Gone book.

What do you do in your daily life? I’m a so called workaholic. I’m lucky enough to wake up everyday and going to work with the smile. I manage my day runnning different projects for the three companies I co-own: La MJC, Club 75 and BMC Paris.

Why did you make the All Gone Book? Cause I was annoyed by people telling me 24/7 in 2005 that internet will kill paper and will be the only media in 2016. Cause the web is a fantastic tool to promote present and future, but no one is better than a book to document the past. Cause I think only a beautiful manufactured object can really pay tribute to all the projects I considered the best in street culture. I really think digital is amazing, but can totally co-exist with paper, books and magazines.

What is your best art piece you have? (clothing, collectors item, etc) I’m so happy with the brand new 2015 version of the Undercover Lamp, now produced by Medicom Toy.

What is is your favourite graphic/ image at the moment and why? (art, photography, videos) Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m love these abstract painters, artists from New York: Torey Thornton, Erik Mack, Eddie Martinez, Odessa Straub to name a few. Always a fan of artists working on shaped canvas too, and abstract shapes, like Blair Thurman, Michael Rey, or Justin Adian.

Which music artists are you cur rently listening to? Funny cause these days, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m into the new Breakbot album, which is completely different from the new rap/trap generation that I listen to on a daily basis,

What is your favourite travel destination? Tokyo and Los Angeles. 73

Information

MADE BY : · Tino (Martijn) Cimmermans (Teams up)

Interview : · Micheal Dupouy (La MJC, Publisher All Gone)

Contact : · Tim (Manager, PATTA) · Brandon Taylor (Admin The basement) · Laura Cowell (Member The basement)