Belgrade in your Pocket by marvinrobot

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELGRADE July - September 2008

Beerfest

Festival of beer and music

BITEF N°2 www.inyourpocket.com

Tragicomedy - Tragedy of Our Times

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Belgrade

First Glance at the City of Secrets

The Basics

History

Culture & Events

Another Beer, Please!

Excursion from Belgrade

Oplenac, Novi Sad and FruĹĄka gora

Where to stay

Sweet Dreams

Restaurants Hedonistic Bliss

30 CafĂŠs

Making New Friends

Nightlife

City That Truly Never Sleeps

What to see

View from the Hill of Contemplation

Mail & Phones

Getting around

Traps for Walkers

Shopping

Souvenirs and Keepsakes

Business Directory

Invest in Belgrade

Lifestyle Directory

From Masseurs to Dentists

Sports

Maps&Index Index & Street register City centre map City map Country map

61 62 64 65 July - September 2008

Foreword The arrival of summer and increase in air and asphalt temperature marks a decrease in the amount of clothing in which Belgrade girls leave their houses and an increased risk of accidents caused by drivers looking in the wrong direction. Belgrade summers can get really hot, with temperatures sometimes reaching almost 40°C, making the locations by the Belgrade rivers and lakes ideal for cooling down. Don’t miss Beer Fest in August - 4 crazy days and nights of fun and entertainment with cold beer and rock concerts. Theatre enthusiasts are in for a treat in September - the International Theatre Festival, which provides an overview of the most relevant accomplishments on the European theatre scene.

Europe In Your Pocket

Cover story The Belgrade Fortress was erected on the hill above the junction of the Sava and Danube rivers at the end of the 1st Century as the permanent camp of the Roman Legion Flavia Felix. During the course of history, it underwent various additions, was razed to the ground, rebuilt and remodelled on numerous occasions. The shape of the Fortress, as it exists today, was formed at the end of the 18th Century, but the majority of the structures were destroyed during wars waged in subsequent years. The Belgrade Fortress compound is comprised of the Upper Town, the Lower Town, and the Kalemegdan Park. The plateau of the fortress near the Victor Monument offers a view of the unforgettable sunsets. The Zindan Gate (on photograph) was built in mid 15th century and was the most heavily fortified entrance to the fortress. The underground section of this structure used to serve as a dungeon (Turkish word zindan means dungeon). In earlier times there was a drawbridge in front of its towers. You will also find many other interesting places within the Belgrade Fortress complex.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Belgrade In Your Pocket Jaše Prodanovića 10 11000 Belgrade, Serbia tel. (+38111)20 84 708 fax (+38111)20 84 719 digital.creat@sezampro.yu www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820-7693 COBISS.SR-ID 147725324

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade, Ljubljana and Novi Sad have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere around the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer.

Editorial Editor Nemanja Tasić Editorial Contributors Vojislava Katić, Dana Todorović Design Boba Jovanović Layout Nebojša Ćosić Research Biljana Nedeljković Photos Jelena Tasić, BG Info Box gallery, EXIT Photo Team, Ivan Ivanović Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG Info Box Sales & Circulation General Manager Saša Marjanović Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo BG Info Box gallery Printed by Kolor Pres Published 4 times per year 20,000 copies

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Belgrade In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

arrivinG in BelGrade By plane

Nikola Tesla Airport is located some 18km west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, and there is a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. The Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat. 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. To get to the city, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle (160 dinars), whose departures coincide with arrivals of that airline, or a public transport bus (the fare bought on board is 60 dinars) or you can take a taxi. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at the arrivals hall, because they will rip you off. The best advice would be to call a taxi (ask someone to do it for you) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 min, and the price should not exceed €14 (except on weekends and public holidays, see p. 45 for info on tariffs). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. The number of passengers or luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+38111)303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111)970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111)9801.

Tourist information Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade - TOB: Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. 209 76 38. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00. Central Railway Station B-2, tel. 361 27 32. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. Makedonska 5 C-2, tel. 334 34 60. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Terazije passageway near the Albania building C-2, tel. 263 56 22. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Information Centre of the Tourist Organisation of Serbia: Dečanska 8a C-2, tel. 323 05 66. 4Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

By car

Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motorways. Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving license, vehicle registration certificate, and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by signatory countries of the “Vehicle Insurance Convention”, and citizens of other countries are required to buy an insurance policy on entering Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motorway runs through the city, the motorway ring being still under construction. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.

By train

Once upon a time, in the days of the Orient Express, a journey by train was the best way to get to Belgrade. The building of the Central Railway Station dates back to 1884 and is

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Street smarts street - ulica square - trg boulevard - bulevar highway - autoput

road - put quay - kej bridge - most

located near the Old Town. Besides the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only place in town where you should beware of pickpockets and sharpers. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs, left luggage office, and a tourist info centre. When you exit the station, you will have to fight your way through the line of importuning taxi sharks, waiting in ambush in front of the station building. Ignore them, and if you want a taxi, hail one a little down the street. There is a tram stop outside the station building, and line N°2, which circles round Old Town, may be the most convenient. You can purchase your fare before climbing aboard, at a kiosk, at a flat price of 29 dinars, or on board, from the driver, for 40 dinars. If the prospect of a steep 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street and reach the very centre of the city - Terazije.

By bus

Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses, connecting it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus Station, one of the ugliest structures to be seen on entering the city, sits next to the Central Railway Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply here. The same goes for the info on how to get to the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and left luggage office. Arrivals are physically separated from the station building, they are located across the street, next to a park. You can find a tourist info centre at the neighbouring railway station.

By boat

The Danube River flows through Serbia, providing 588 km of navigable waterway. You can arrive in Belgrade on-board a Danube cruise boat (almost 400 boats docked in Belgrade Port in 2007) or in your own yacht. Via the Danube River and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, Belgrade is connected to the North Sea and the Black Sea. The passenger dock of the Belgrade Port, including the international border crossing, is located on the right bank of the Sava River, near Branko’s Bridge. The dock features an exchange office, ATM, a souvenir shop and tourist info centre. The Belgrade Fortress is within walking distance, and if you want to go elsewhere in Belgrade, the simplest way is to take a taxi. You can either call one (for more info on Belgrade taxis see p. 450) or hail it in the street in front of the dock. You may hear tour guides shout ‘Watch out for killer bikes!’ because on your way out of the dock, you will have to negotiate a rather busy bicycle path.

Market values Exchange rates (on June 30, 2008.): US$1 = 49.86, €1 = 78.74, UK£1 = 99.4 McDonald’s Big Mac 180din. 1kg of beef 480din. 10 eggs 100din. Loaf of white bread 38din. Snickers bar 40din. Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 32din. 20 Marlboros 120din. Public transport ticket 29din.

€2.30 €6.10 €1.30 €0.50 €0.51 €0.40 €1.52 €0.37

BasiCs Population

Serbia (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province) 7,498,001, Belgrade (2002) 1,576,124. Ethnic composition (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province): Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniacks 1,82%, Roma 1,44%, others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic being the official script, but the Latin script is equally used.

National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 1 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (commemorative day) 25-27 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Big Friday to second day of Easter)

Religion

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion. Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are Muslim, Catholic and Jewish.

Geography

Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The highest peak is Midžor (2169m) on Stara planina (Old Mountain). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is the Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of the Western Morava (308km) and the Southern Morava (295km). Belgrade lies at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube Rivers.

Local time

Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. When it is noon in Belgrade it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.

Disabled travellers

Delta City and Mercator shopping malls offer disabled facilities, including toilets. Pedestrian crossings on main city arteries have dropped kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. And that, sadly, would be it. Most restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offers toilet facilities for the disabled.

Money

The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a “Serbian dinar” dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are

rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000 and 5.000 dinars. The national currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the city (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Belgrade will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. The first ATM in southern Europe was installed in Belgrade in the early 80s.You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and parking fees. Throughout the city, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Belgrade are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Belgrade market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.

Smoking

Most Belgraders consider coffee and cigarettes a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem here is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices, hospitals, etc).

Health

Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable, and you need not worry about their skills if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor maintenance of state-run hospitals, which is a consequence of insufficient funds, and the red tape involved in hospital admission. If you have a minor health problem, you are well advised to visit a private practice so as to avoid an agonizing wait

Local laws & Police

Prostitution and use of drugs are illegal, so try and stay out of trouble, and anyway, being a foreigner, you may not be able to spot out plainclothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches, and that should not alarm you.

July - September 2008

BasiCs

Important phone numbers

Safety

Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987

Belgrade is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the city where a girl should not be walking on her own in the middle of the night. There are other hazards that you should be weary of when you are in Belgrade. While you are strolling round the Old Town, beware of the bits and pieces that may fall off the old buildings waiting their turn for restoration. At the same time, you should thread carefully (particularly on Svetogorska, Vlajkovićeva, Palmotićeva and Hilandarska Streets) because irresponsible dog owners hardly ever clean up after their pets, leaving behind a veritable minefield. There are stray dogs too, but they are generally minding their own business and not giving anyone a trouble.

Homosexuality A public display of homosexuality is mostly unacceptable in Belgrade. If you are gay, you are advised not to be too affectionate in the street, because intolerant onlookers may respond with varying degrees of hostility. There are a few gay clubs in Belgrade, for more info visit www.gay-serbia.com or www.belgrade-gay.com.

Visas

If you are a citizen of EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Russia, Japan, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs C-3, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners) B-3, Savska 35, tel. 361 89 56.

Toilets

Public toilets in Belgrade are hard to find. There are none at the Belgrade Fortress, the nearest one is in Kalemegdan Park. The existing ones are fairly decent, free and can be found in large parks, open 07:00 - 23:00. If the need to go comes on whilst you are strolling round the city, you can use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant, or a public garage.

As a result of a surprisingly small number of bridges, a bypass is under construction and the fact that a motorway runs almost through the centre of the city, there are no classic peak traffic periods, and instead, there are traffic jams on major interchanges almost all the day round. Belgraders as a rule drive fast and change lanes abruptly without signalling, and they do not suffer slower drivers gladly. A yellow line which marks the rightmost lane actually means the lane is reserved for public transport and taxis. Do not come too close to the curb, because some mysterious bandits seem to be operating outside the city centre and targeting manhole lids, so you run the risk of your tyre hitting the hole. In summary, if you have little penchant for Dakar Rally experience, you have better abandon the idea of driving round Belgrade. After all, the best way to get to know a city is on foot

 The Belgrade telephone code is +381 11 Further reading IPS-Akademija bookshop offers a choice of books, monographs, dictionaries and comics in English. Knez Mihailova 35 C-2, tel. 263 65 14. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00.

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On the city’s roads

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Guide to Serbian mentality by Momo Kapor, Dereta, Belgrade 2007.

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www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

Nov Dec

Momo Kapor is a popular Serbian painter and writer. This book is a compilation of texts written for several magazines that will either help you understand Serbs and their way of thinking or will leave you even more confused. The illustrations in the book are Momo’s own vivid ink drawings. Various traditions of the Serbs are described - their fears, desires, and emotional upbringing which drives them towards irrational behaviour.

history 7000 BC Neolithic settlement established. 279 BC First mention of Singidunum, the first name of the city. Founded by the Scordisci, a Celtic tribe. 86 AD HQ of the 4th Roman Legion Flavia Felix. 395 The Roman Empire splits into two and Singidunum passes to the Eastern Roman Empire. Strategically located on the northwestern border, it is exposed to diverse cultural influences and is a magnet for every aspiring conqueror. 441-827 Invaded and ravaged successively by Huns, Sarmatians, Goths, Gepidaes, Avars, Slavs, Byzantine Empire, and Bulgaria. Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans in the 6th century. Slavs embrace Christianity in 9th century. 878 First mention of the Slavic name for the city - Belgrade - in a letter by Pope John VIII to Bulgarian Prince Boris I Mihail, informing the latter of the dismissal of Bishop of Belgrade for debauchery. 896-1232 Battleground between Hungary and Byzantine Empire, it changes hands eight times. Once seized by Bulgaria and twice ransacked by Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem. 1166 Stefan Nemanja asserts himself as the Grand Prince of Serbs, creates an independent Serbian state and founds Nemanjić dynasty. He is crowned king of Serbs by the Pope. 1219 Serbian Orthodox Church gains independence. 1284 King Stefan Dragutin receives Belgrade from Hungary as a gift - this is the first time that the city passes to Serbian rule. 1346 King Stefan Dušan of Nemanjić house crowned Emperor of Serbs and Greeks. Following his demise, the empire dissolves and Serbian noblemen create their own states. 1389 Battle of Kosovo. Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović rallies Serbian nobility to stand up to Turkish expansion into Europe. Europe celebrates the victory of Christianity because of the death of Turkish sultan and Turkish retreat, but Serbia cannot recover as most of its nobility, including Prince Lazar, perished in the battle. He is succeeded by his underage son Stefan Lazarević, who becomes a Turkish vassal. 1403 Despot Stefan Lazarević receives Belgrade from Hungary, rebuilds it and makes it the capital of Serbia. 1427 Hungary reclaims Belgrade following the death of Despot Stefan Lazarević. 1440 Sultan Murad II lays siege to Belgrade with 100,000 Turkish soldiers and 200 ships. The city endures the siege following fierce struggle. 1456 Sultan Mehmed II besieges Belgrade with 150,000 soldiers. Turks lift the siege when their Sultan is wounded. 1459 Turks conquer the then Serbian capital of Smederevo; beginning of a five centuries long Turkish supremacy over Serbia. 1521 Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent captures Belgrade with 300,000 soldiers, and deports the entire population to Istanbul. 1688-1791 Belgrade successively conquered by Austria and Turkey six times. 1804 Serbian uprising against Turks started by Đorđe Petrović Karađorđe. 1807 Led by Karađorđe, Serbs liberate Belgrade and make it the capital of Serbia. Karađorđe is subsequently proclaimed a hereditary ruler. He founds Karađorđević dynasty. 1813 Turkey captures Belgrade; uprising is crushed; Karađorđe flees Serbia. 1815 Miloš Obrenović leads Second Serbian Uprising. Serbia is offered partial autonomy. 1817 Karađorđe is murdered on his return to Serbia, on orders from Miloš Obrenović. 1830 Turkey grants autonomy to Serbia. Miloš Obrenović is acknowledged as hereditary Prince. He founds Obrenović dynasty.

1862 Murder of a Serbian youth triggers a clash between Serbian and Turkish soldiers which ends in an international treaty bringing the Turkish control over Belgrade to an end. 1867 Turks leave Belgrade. Turkish commander hands over to Prince Mihailo Obrenović the keys to Belgrade Fortress. 1876 Serbian-Turkish war. Serbs liberate southeastern Serbia. 1878 Formal independence of Serbia recognized at the Congress of Berlin. 1882 Kingdom of Serbia proclaimed under King Milan Obrenović. 1903 The May Coup d’Etat. Group of officers styled Black Hand assassinates King Aleksandar Obrenović and Queen Draga Mašin, because their love was unacceptable to people. The house of Obrenović becomes extinct, King Petar I Karađorđević (grandson to Karađorđe) claims the throne. 1912 First Balkan War launched by Serbia, Greece and Bulgaria against Ottoman Turkey. Turks driven out of Kosovo and Metohija, the last occupied part of Serbia. 1913 Second Balkan War waged and won by Serbia against Bulgaria. 1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Austro-Hungary shells and captures Belgrade. After the Battle of Cer, the first allied victory in WWI, and Kolubara, Serbian army liberates Belgrade and drives the Austro-Hungarian army out of Serbia. 1915 Germany and Bulgaria enter the war siding with Austro-Hungary. German and Austro-Hungarian troops capture Belgrade. Beginning of three-year-long occupation and plunder of the city. Serbian army retreats under attack across Albania towards Greece and Corfu Island. 1916 Healed Serbian soldiers join the allied army in the Salonica Front. 1918 With the breakthrough of the Salonica Front, Serbian army returns to Serbia. In WWI, Serbia had 1,247,000 casualties (28% of its total population). Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state and Belgrade becomes the capital of Yugoslavia. 1934 King Aleksandar visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis (Germany-Italy-Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-year-old Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany bombs Belgrade on 6th April. The King and the government go into exile. Emergence of two Serbian resistance movements - chetnicks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Croatia. 1944 Belgrade is repeatedly bombed by the Allies. Tito’s partisans and the Red Army liberate the city on 20th October. 1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially installed in power. In the post-war period, Belgrade grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1961 The first Conference of Non-Aligned Countries held in Belgrade. 1968 Students’ protests against social inequities and bureaucracy. Soon after, hundreds of thousands of

July - September 2008

history Belgraders at Nikola Pašić Square protest the Russian occupation of Czechoslovakia. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Belgrade for the first time in his life. 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia, who want to unify with the federal Yugoslavia. 1 9 9 3 Th e h i g h e s t h y p e r i n f l a t i o n i n h i s to r y - a 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Belgrade. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb Serbia and Belgrade for three months, without endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslav succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. 20 0 0 Sl ob odan Mil oševi ć is ousted amidst h u ge demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. Belgrade is named City of Future of South Europe by Financial Times. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and Metohija province of Serbia declare independence from Serbia. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and is striving to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people are gathered in Belgrade at peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovo independence, while several hundreds of youngsters demolish and burn the emptied building of the US Embassy.

Political framework

Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years, the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister

Belgrade In Your Pocket

is Mirko Cvetković. Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan Milošević’s party) form the ruling government coalition. The major opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party..

Josip Broz Tito Tito (1892-1980) is a mystery man who ruled supreme over Yugoslavia for 35 years. Secretary General of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia, leader of one of two resistance movements during WW2, life-long president of Yugoslavia and a founder of Non-Aligned Movement. German occupation of Serbia and the flight of the King and the Government from the country played neatly to his advantage, as he prepared the way for a communist rule during the anti-fascist struggle. In the aftermath of the war, he banned the King from returning to the country and lived his life regally. A charmer and womaniser, a hedonist of sophisticated tastes, he was a darling to the proletariat, Hollywood stars, communist dictators and European aristocracy alike. Churchill himself, who cordially detested communists, sipped his breakfast bubbly with him. Unlike other countries of the eastern bloc, Yugoslavia was never behind the ‘iron curtain’. Tito defied Stalin’s directives and decided that it would best suit Yugoslavia to pursue its own socialist model. In response, Stalin kicked Yugoslavia out of the socialist camp, and imposed economic boycott. Several years later, Nikita Khrushchev, Stalin’s successor in the Soviet Union, visited Tito in Belgrade and penitently asked for reconciliation. Khrushchev was stunned by lavish soirées and the lifestyle at White Palace. Yugoslavia fostered good relations with all the countries in the world and Yugoslavs had the best of the two worlds and travelled freely worldwide, which made them the envy of eastern bloc countries. Tito’s funeral drew the largest number of statesmen in history (from 127 different nations). It also marked the beginning of the collapse of Yugoslavia.

Culture & events Events Listings Policy Our events listings are free and completely independent of paid-for advertising. If you have an event that is of interest to an English-speaking audience, and which you would like to be publicised in our Culture & Events pages, please send details to digital.creat@sezampro.yu. We will always try our best to list all events we recieve, though we cannot guarantee to do so.

pop stars perform at concerts. During the festival there are competitions in beer-drinking, wet T-shirts and electric bull riding. When you get hungry, you can purchase BBQ meat and home-made sweets. There is no admission fee for the festival. www.belgradebeerfest.com

Belgrade Summer Festival July - August Theatre performances, visual art, concerts, alternative performances, installation art by local and foreign artists displayed on the streets, squares and various unusual locations. Small doses of cultural refreshment for hot summer days.

Beerfest August 20-24 Friendship Park (New Belgrade) The Belgrade summer festival of beer and music will take place this year for the first time at a new location - the park near the junction of the Sava and Danube rivers. You can try over thirty types of beer made by manufacturers who try to outdo each other each year in the innovative appearance of their booths and the attractive appearance of the girls serving their beer. The beer is poured into plastic half-litre cups which cost about 1 euro on average. Local rock and

Everything is connected August 15-29 KCB Art Gallery Video-installation. Five leaders of criminal gangs, interpreted by Lala RaĹĄÄ?iÄ&#x2021;, communicate over five monitors.

July - September 2008

Culture & events O3one Gallery programme www.o3.co.yu July 7-16: Exhibition of Photography by Yaniv Waissa July 17-19: Exhibition of Works by Zorica Šormaz July 21-26: E xhibition of Works by Danica Dana Marinković

Heterotopia July 9-27 KCB Art Gallery A presentation of nine artists from the First Contemporary Art Biennale of Thessaloniki. Thematically inspired by the theory of Michel Foucault that every man follows certain rules which disrupt him in his everyday life, this exhibition attempts to illustrate that art itself becomes a heterotopia, as it leaves the museum to conquer everyday spaces.

Boat Carnival August 30 Rowers, sailboats, jet skiers, water skiers, and decorated boats will all be passing down the Sava River, in the section between Branko’s Bridge and the junction of the Sava and Danube rivers. The programme will begin at 17:00, and the ‘icing on the cake’ will be the fireworks in the evening. Last year they decided to skip the traditional party for visitors on the river’s shore - a tasting event offering fish chowder and pig roasted on the spit to the sounds of gypsy and tamburitza orchestras, and the musical programme took place on a boat for VIP guests. You can find out how the event will be organized this year by reserving well in advance a table on the terrace of one of the floating restaurants.

Exhibition of Violins September 1-5 Guarnerius Art Center Mr Gilles Chancereul, the famous French expert for assessing and repairing string instruments, will carry out a professional estimate of the worth of string instruments and provide expert advice in this field. Expensive violins from his collection will be exhibited at the Guarnerius Gallery. His copy will be displayed next to each original violin, for purposes of comparison. In honour of the exhibition, the French violinist Jean-Marc Phillips Varjabedian and Hungarian violinist Jan Orawiec will play on some of the violins on display.

Belgrade Tango Festival September 4-7 A real treat for those who thrive on the amorous embrace of this most passionate of ballroom dances. The Festival will be opened with a concert at the Kolarac Foundation Hall, with performances by Beltango Quinteto, Carlos Buono & Tangarte, as well as dancing couples from Argentina. During the day, seminars for Beginners (up to 1 year), Intermediate (1-3 years) and Advanced (more than 3 years) will be held by famous dancing couples: Pablo Villaraza & Dana Frigoli, Sergio Cortazzo & Soledad Rivero, Gustavo Rosas & Gisela Natoli. During the evening, milongas will take place at interesting locations, and the final performance of the festival will be the Asfalto Milonga at the Republic Square at 19:00 hrs.

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket

Culture & events Tango festival programme Tango Spectacle September 4, 20:00 Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Hall, Studentski trg 5 Orquesta Beltango Quinteto Bailarines de tango: Pablo Villaraza & Dana Frigoli (Argentina) Sergio Cortazzo & Soledad Rivero (Argentina) Gustavo Rosas & Gisela Natoli (Argentina) Special guests: Carlos Buono, bandoneon (Argentina) Juanjo Passo, guitar (Argentina) Tango intro party September 4, 23:00 Havana Club, 11pm Nikole Spasića 1 Gran Milonga September 5, 22:00 - 04:00 Glass Garden - Hotel Admiral, Venizelosova Street 31 Special guests: Beltango quinteto, Sergio Cortazzo and Soledad Rivero Tango Ball September 6, 22:00 - 04:00 Central Military Club, Braće Jugovića 19 Asfalto Milonga September 7, 19:00 - 21:30 Republic Square Orquesta tipica Tango Juventud Tango outro party September 7, 22:00 Guarnerius Art Center, Džordža Vašingtona 12 Tango workshops: September 5-7, 11:00 Dr Vojislav Vucčković Music School, Kondina street 6 Mokranjac Music School, Dečanska 6

BITEF September 15-28 International festival of new theatrical tendencies. Founded in 1967, this festival of a competitive character is held in Belgrade theatres and accompanied by some additional programmes. Even though it lost the symbolic meaning it had during the Cold War period, when it was the place where artists from both sides of the iron curtain would socialise and exchange experiences, it is still a very reputable festival with an excellent selection, eagerly awaited each year by the audience and actors alike. This year’s BITEF selection will be focused on the phenomenon of the manipulation of the concept of ‘the tragic’ in the modern world. Main programme: Tragicomedy - Tragedy of Our Times More or less, Infinity Cie 111 - Aurélien Bory & Phil Soltanoff (FR) September 15, 16 Sava Centre By using classic circus elements, Ensemble Cie 111 creates a visual experience in which the participants confront their bodies with the abstract, and in exploring the potential of space they achieve ‘more or less infinity’. Direction: Phil Soltanoff

 The Belgrade telephone code is +381 11 July - September 2008

Culture & Events Lack of space Rote Fabrik Zürich (CH) & Dieproduktion GmbH (DE) September 17, 18 Venue to be confirmed A play about high-class people who try to reach bliss, health and a prosperous future, yet find themselves in the first circle of hell. They sing and dance but sink deeper and deeper into their tragicomic despair. Direction: Christoph Marthaler

Don Giovanni Jugokoncert & Belgrade Fair (SRB) September 19, 20, 21 Belgrade Fair, Hall 3 The spectacle which explores a wide range of sensations - from the barely noticeable to the extremely impressive, a sort of ‘eye exercise’ for the audience which keeps searching for the voices that emerge and change from scene to scene. A harmonized set of movements and various interactions between light, sound, image and audience placement. Direction: Bojana Cvejić, Conductor: Premil Petrović

difference being that the main female character is played by a man. By doing so, the director’s intention was to portray the soul, since the soul has no gender. Direction: Alvis Hermanis Stifter’s things Théâtre Vidy - Lausanne (Lausanne, CH) September 25, 26, 27 Sava Centre A play without actors which emanates a unique poetic quality, inspired by Adalbert Stifter, the forgotten German writer from the beginning of the 19th Century. Objects, instead of actors, fill the stage. Conception, music and direction: Heiner Goebbels Baby drama Unga Klara (Stockholm, S) September 23, 24 Venue to be confirmed In her theatre, director Susan Osten created something that borders on the impossible: a play for babies between six and twelve months of age. Together with her team she studied the perception of infants and created an unusual masterpiece of contemporary theatre. In Stockholm, the audience is comprised of babies accompanied by one parent only, while in Belgrade, the ‘regular’ festival audience will also be allowed entrance. Direction: Suzanne Osten The Persians Deutsches Theatre (DE) September 27, 28 Yugoslav Drama Theatre ‘The Persians’, showing at the Deutsches Theatre in Berlin and directed by Dimiter Gotscheff, was proclaimed by German critics as the best play of last season. The tragedy of the defeated, still relevant in modern times. Sophocles: Oedipus Rex National Theatre (Belgrade, SRB) Date to be confirmed National Theatre Direction and adaptation: Vida Ognjenović Additional programme: Truth in Theatre www.bitef.rs

Kayak-Canoe 2008 September 19-21 Ada Ciganlija 3rd World University Championship Maybe Forever Meg Stuart (USA) & Philipp Gehmacher (A) September 18, 19 Venue to be confirmed Choreographers Meg Stuart and Philipp Gehmacher portray the struggle between human beings and their struggle with objects, which is not ‘maybe forever’… Movement seems lighter when accompanied by song, but under the velvety surface of melancholy simmers the unexpressed. Sonya Jaunais Rigas Teatris (Riga, LT) September 22, 23 CZKD This is Alvis Hermanis’ adaptation of the short story Sonja by contemporary Russian writer Tatiana Tolstoy, with the

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 46th October Salon September 26 - November 9 Launched in 1960, the October Art Salon is the largest international contemporary visual art event in Serbia. Selected works by artists from all over the globe are exhibited at several locations. The title of this year’s exhibition is Umetnik-građanin/Umetnica-građanka (Artist-citizen), which is rather difficult to translate, and, according to curator Bojana Pejić PhD, does not reflect the theme of the exhibition, making it unclear what it is supposed to mean. The motto of this year’s salon is ‘Do we need art to tell us what we do not want to know?’, and the most important evening - the opening and award ceremony - will be held on September 26th in the 25th Maj museum. The event is organized by the Belgrade Cultural Centre.

EXIT Festival July 10-13 Petrovaradin fortress - Novi Sad (80km from Belgrade, Motorway E-75) 25 stages with more than 600 performers EXIT festival takes place in Novi Sad every July. The party lasts four days, attracting star performers and tens of thousands of festival-goers, still dancing well after sunrise. EXIT was started in 2000, by university students from Novi Sad, in the midst of political and economic turmoil in Serbia, and in a bid to rouse young people in Novi Sad against the incumbent repressive political regime. Held in historic Petrovaradin Fortress since 2001, the festival grew in stature and gained international recognition. Last year EXIT won the UK Festival Award: Best Festival on the Continent. MTV and Radio BBC have traditionally supported the festival from 2004.

Night of the Jumps - World Championship Series September 27 Belgrade Arena The fierce motorcycle competition is among the most extreme sports on the planet, and the bikers, including a few world champions, compete on uneven surfaces in a ferocious ‘man to man’ battle. Their Freestyling Jumps can reach heights of up to 12 meters, and the bikers can fly up to a 40 meters distance between obstacles.

Exit Photo Team

EXIT team has started a tourist service site www.exittrip. org where festival visitors may book transpor t and accommodation during the festival, and obtain useful info and tips about Novi Sad. You may book shuttle service to Novi Sad from any airport, railway or bus station in the country or the region in the radius of 500km. EXIT trip offers buses, minivans, limos and cars. Each visitor using the EXIT Trip accommodation services will be given a contact number of their host - volunteer, whom they can contact during the festival for any info about EXIT. During the day, there will be fun trips (ride on the balloon, the Danube boating trip, visit to salaši, etc) or educational tours (monuments, museums, etc). The safe and reliable EXIT booking service is the only official booking service of the Festival. www.exittrip.org

Music: Pop & Rock July 1 20:00 TUBORG Green Fest* Belgrade Arena July 24 21:00 Lenny Kravitz Belgrade Arena August 23 20:00 Common Bond Sava centre September 7 20:00 RBD Belgrade Arena *Franz Ferdinand, Cypress Hill, Raveonettes

Main stage July 10 19:00 - 06:00 DMT, The BelRays, Nightwish, NERD, The Streets, Noisia & MC Verse, DJ Hype & MC IC3, Noisia, DJ Hype July 11 19:00 - 06:00 Superhis, Gossip, Paul Weller, Primal Scream, Roni Size Reprazent, Skream & Benga, Roni Size & MC Dynamite

July - September 2008

Culture & events July 12 19:00 - 06:00 Bateria Sambansa, Gogol Bordello, Juliette and the Licks, Manu Chao, Afrika Bambaataa, High Contrast & MC Wrec July 13 19:00 - 06:00 KUD Idijoti, The Hives, Ministry, Pekinška patka, Sex Pistols, Shy MC & , Dillinja & MC Jakes My Bel Dance Arena July 10 23:00 - 08:00 Heidi, Audion Live, Sven Vath, Francois K, Kos July 11 23:00 - 08:00 Alex Metric, Tiga, Soulwax Live, Laurent Garnier, 2 Many DJ’s July 12 23:00 - 08:00 People Get Real, Miguel Migs ft. Lisa Shaw, Kreuder & Dorfmeister Live, Axwell, Tom Novy July 13 23:00 - 08:00 Claude VonStroke, Ben Watt, Booka Shade Live, Dubfire (Deep Dish) & Sharam (Deep Dish) eng.exitfest.org

Exit Photo Team

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Venues Artget gallery BB, Trg Republike 5 Belgrade Arena A-2, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd.com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, www. sajam.co.yu Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra C-2, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328 29 77, www.bgf.co.yu Belgrade Public Bath, Cara Dušana 45 Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C -2, Makedonska 22, tel. 324 82 02, www.domomladine. org Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323 42 24 Expo XXI Centre A-2, Španskih boraca 74A, tel. 328 40 74, www.expocentres.co.yu Guarneriuss C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 334 52 37, www.guarnerius.co.yu KCB Art gallery, Knez Mihailova 6 Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. 263 05 50, www.kolarac.co.yu KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 305 50 70 Legacy House, Knez Mihailova 46 Magacin, Kraljevića Marka 4 New Belgrade Sport Hall, Pariske komune 20 Pionir Sports Centre D-2, Čarlija Čaplina 39 Rex Cultural Centre C-1, Jevrejska 16, tel. 328 45 34, www.rex.b92.net Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220 60 60, www.savacentar.com SKC (Student Cultural Centre) C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360 20 11, www.skc.org.yu Tašmajdan Stadium C-2, Beogradska 71 The 25th Maj museum, Botićeva 6 www.oktobarskisalon.org

Culture & events 48th Dragačevo Assembly August 6-10 Guča village in Dragačevo disctrict The sound of the trumpet is traditionally part of every major event in Serbia, whether public of personal. The trumpet rends the air signalling to the world births, weddings, slavas (family patron saint day), new years, elections, even funerals. The small village of Guča in Serbia’s heartland has gained worldwide fame for the largest and craziest trumpet event on the planet - the Assembly of Trumpet Players from Serbia who compete every year for the coveted title of the best trumpeter and the best orchestra. Earlier in the year, keen qualifying contests are held throughout Serbia, allowing only 16 orchestras to compete in the Guča finale. The song ‘Sa Ovčara i Kablara’, performed by all the competing brass bands, traditionally marks the beginning of the festival. The musicians are for the most part self-thought, playing by the ear. The concerts take place at the village stadium, and all day and night long, numerous non-competing brass bands play for visitors under tents selling grilled meat, beer and plum brandy. The festival attracts over half a million people every year, dancing joyfully to the irresistible adrenalin-rushing rhythms. Boban Marković, a famous trumpet player, the only one who has ever won the highest mark from every jury member and who since then decided not to compete any more, will give a concert with his orchestra. There will be 15 orchestras from abroad, as well as traditional sports contests (such as stone throwing), competition for the most beautiful folk costume, art exhibitions, etc. Those lucky enough to find accommodation in Guča or neighbouring villages will be awakened by the blaring call of the trumpet every morning at 7am. Accommodation and transport: www.guca.co.yu

23:00 Concert of Boban Marković August 9 07:00 Wake-up call of trumpet players 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Toast-masters competition 13:00 Competition for the most beauti ful national costume 14:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 17:00 Festival parade of all program participants 18:00 Competition of the youth brass orchestras - children and juniors 23:00 Midnight brass concert August 10 07:00 Wake-up call of trumpet players 11:00 Festival parade of all program participants 12:00 Improvisation of a traditional Dragacevo wedding 13:00 Press conference 15:00 Final competition of brass orchestras - seniors 19:00 Announcement of the final competition winners: the best trumpeters, the best orchestras 20:00 Grand festival folk dance ‘See you at the next festival’

‘I didn’t know you could play trumpet that way’ Miles Davis, a Guča Festival visitor Programme: August 6 10:00 Opening of the festival 12:00 Press conference 16:00 Opening of an exhibition of Dragačevo women weavers, opening of art exhibitions 18:00 Promotion of books and publications 20:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups August 7 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Festival wedding 18:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups 21:00 Concert of Trumpet Masters August 8 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Foreign brass orchestras show 14:00 Traditional sports tournament 15:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 17:00 Semi-final competition of brass orchestras seniors 18:00 ‘They won - they deserved it’ performance 21:00 Concert of foreign brass orchestras

Ticket agents Bilet servis C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. 303 33 11, www.biletservis.co.yu. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Saturday 09:00 - 15:00, Sunday Closed. Ticketline C-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music Store), tel. 203 05 70, www.ticketline.co.yu. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sunday 12:00 - 20:00. Eventim, www.eventim-yu.com

July - September 2008

Culture & events Art galleries 25. maj Gallery, Botićeva 6, tel. 367 14 85. 4Open 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon. Arte Galerija C-2, Svetogorska 29, tel. 324 39 96, www. arte.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00 Artget C-2, Trg Republike 5/I, tel. 328 14 07, www. kcb.co.yu. 4Open 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Beograd Gallery B-2, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Cvijeta Zuzorić Art Pavilion C-1, Kalemegdan 1, tel. 262 15 85, www.ulus.org.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Diplomatic club Gallery, Bulevar oslobođenja 317, tel. 309 50 00. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00 Euroart Gallery C-2, Makedonska 30 (Eurocentar), tel. 337 33 74. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun FLU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 263 06 35. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun Gallery of Belgrade City Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202 40 11. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Grafički kolektiv Gallery C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 262 77 85, www.grafkol.co.yu. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Haos C-2, Cara Lazara 12, tel. 262 74 97, www. gallerychaos.com. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Gallery C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. 218 57 94, www.kolarac.co.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun KCB Art Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 262 29 26, www.kcb.co.yu. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Magacin C-2, Kraljevića Marka 4, www.domomladine. org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00 New Moment Gallery C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. 322 99 92, www.newmoment.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 O3one Gallery C-2, Andrićev venac 12, tel. 323 87 89, www.o3.co.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Progres Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 10, tel. 218 26 26. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Remont C-2, Makedonska 5/III, tel. 322 34 06, www. remont.co.yu. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun RTS Gallery C-2, Takovska 10, 321 18 33. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art C-1, Pariska 14, tel. 263 09 40, www.msub.org.yu. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue SANU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334 24 00, www.sanu.ac.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun Singidunum Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. 218 53 23, www.ulupuds.org.yu. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun SKC Gallery C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 268 84 68, www.skc.org.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Stara Kapetanija Gallery, Kej oslobođenja 8 (Zemun), tel. 261 20 23. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00/18:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon SULUJ Gallery C-2, Terazije 26/II, tel. 268 57 80, www. galerijasuluj.org.yu. 4Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Superspace Gallery B-2, Ulica Karađorđeva 2 (Beton hala, Sava Quay), tel. 303 71 72. ULUS Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 262 31 28, www.ulus.org.yu. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Zvono Gallery C-1, Višnjićeva 5, tel. 262 52 43, www. galerijazvono.org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun

Cinemas

Akademija 28 C-3, Nemanjina 28, tel. 361 60 20 Balkan C-2, Braće Jugović 16, tel. 334 34 91 DKC C-2, Kolarčeva 6, tel. 262 11 74 Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323 48 49 Jadran 2K DPL C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. 264 20 57 Museum Art cinema C-1, Uzun Mirkova 2, tel. 328 18 88 Museum of Yugoslav Film Archives C-2, Kosovska 11, tel. 324 82 50 Palas Šumadija, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 355 54 65 Roda cineplex, Požeška 83a, tel. 254 52 60 Ster cineplex, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. 220 34 00 Tuckwood Cineplex C-2, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. 323 65 17 Zvezda C-2, Terazije 40, tel. 268 73 20

Theatres

Atelje 212 (drama, comedy) C-2, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324 73 42, www.atelje212.co.yu BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre (drama) D-3, Mileševska 64a, tel. 283 70 00, www.bdp.co.yu Bitef Theatre (modern dance) C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 322 06 08, www.bitef.co.yu Boško Buha Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. 263 28 55, www. buha.co.yu Dadov (youth and alternative theatre) C-2, Desanke Maksimović 6, tel. 324 36 43, www.dadov.co.yu Duško Radović (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323 20 72, www.malopozoriste. co.yu JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre (drama) C-3, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 306 19 57, www.jdp.co.yu Madlenianum Opera and Theatre (opera, ballet, drama), Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel. 316 25 33, www. madlenianum.co.yu National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. 262 09 46, www.narodnopozoriste. co.yu Pinokio (children’s puppet theatre), Karađorđeva 9 (Zemun), tel. 269 17 15 Puž (children’s theatre) D-3, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com Slavija Theatre (comedy) C-3, Svetog Save 16, tel. 243 69 95, www.pozoriste-slavija.co.yu Terazije Theatre (musical, ballet) C-2, Terazije 29, tel. 322 99 43, www.pozoristeterazije.com Zvezdara Theatre (drama, comedy), Milana Rakića 38; Tel: 241 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.co.yu

Belgrade Fair www.sajam.co.rs September 5-7: 2nd Lav Football Expo 2008 September 17-20: 7th Packtech Expo Balkan 2008 September 17-20: 30th International Graphic and paper Industry Fair September 17-20: 4rd Conbak Expo Balkan 2008

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eXCursions FroM BelGrade

Guaranteed City Tour 20 euro per person From Monday to Friday at 10.50 in front of Hotel Balkan Duration 2 hours with photostop. Ticket purchase in the bus. Limited space, please make reservation. Great choise of other private tours and excursions in Belgrade and Serbia

For more information please contact our office Dositejeva 26, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel./Fax: (381-11) 2 181 181, 2 622 620 E-mail: glob@metropoliten.com www. metropoliten.com 24h service +381 63 236432

EXCURSION FROM BELGRADE Oplenac Lies in the hearth of Serbia where, in early 19th century, Đorđe Petrović (1768-1817) built his own stronghold. He was the leader of the First Serbian Uprising against the Ottoman Turks, who dubbed him Karađorđe - Black Đorđe. He was a cattle merchant who fought against the Ottoman Empire, initially as an outlaw and then serving in the Austrian army during the Austro-Turkish war (he was decorated with a gold medal for courage). In early 1804, he was chosen to lead the first Serbian uprising against the Turks. He was the commander at the battle of Mišar (analysed at military academies worldwide) where Serbs won a crushing victory, and he liberated Belgrade in 1806. After the failure of the uprising in 1813, he left for Austria and Russia. On his return to Serbia in 1817, he was killed upon the orders of Serbian Prince Miloš Obrenović. He was the founder of the Karađorđević dynasty.

members of the Royal Family. The Oplenac complex includes Peter’s House, where the King lived while he was overseeing the building of the church, Winegrower’s House built in the style of traditional Serbian houses (which nowadays hosts a permanent exhibition - The Legacy of Nikola Graovac, a distinguished Serbian painter), King’s and Queen’s villas and replanted Royal Vineyards. King Petar I Karađorđević had the vineyards planted intending them to serve as a role model for Serbian vineyards and a nursery of carefully selected European grapevines. Following the World War II, the new communist authorities took over the management of the complex, and allowed the vineyards to fall to ruin or wilfully destroyed them. Several years ago, the vineyards were replanted. During the tour of the complex you will hear an engaging story of how the King was buying the land for the vineyards from the villagers (who called him Uncle Pierre) and one of them would not let him have the land for any sum of money the King repeatedly offered. He even sued the King in court for putting pressure on him. The villager won the case and then he gave the disputed land to the King as a present (a fine example of the unpredictability of Serbian behaviour). The royal vintner tradition has nowadays been revived by Aleksandrović Cellar. The Royal Cellar Master (who emigrated to the States (Canada) when communists came to power), revealed, before he died, the secret recipe for Triumph, the best wine from the King’s cellar, to the owner of the Aleksandrović Cellar. The Oplenac Grape Harvest, an event visited by more than 200,000 people, takes place every October.

The church of St. George is perched on top of Mali Oplenac hill. It is the endowment of King Petar I Karađorđević, who was grandson to Karađorđe. He completed the Military Academy in Saint-Cyr and was decorated with the Order of the Legion of Honour for his merits in the Foreign Legion. He became King in 1903, at the age of sixty. He was victorious in the Balkan wars against Turkey in 1912 and Bulgaria in 1913. The cornerstone of the church was laid in 1904, but it was not completed until 1930, due to the Balkan Wars and the World War I, when Austrian army removed the bells and the copper cover from the dome and the roof and then desecrated the graves of the Royal Family in the crypt. It is one of the loveliest churches in Serbia, known for its exquisite frescoes and mosaics. The church is the resting place of Karađorđe (the founder of the dynasty) and King Petar I Karađorđević, and its crypt contains the tombs of 19 more

Belgrade In Your Pocket

EXCURSION FROM BELGRADE

clock’. The fortress features several restaurants and night clubs and it is famous for EXIT - the best music festival in Europe 2007. Were it not for the scarcity of garbage bins and rather random park cleaning service, it would have been perfect.

Novi Sad The capital of Serbian province Vojvodina, and the second biggest town in Serbia, famous for EXIT festival and Petrovaradin fortress, one of the largest fortresses in Europe. In Novi Sad, everything is close at hand, the pace of life is laid- back, the food is rich and delicious, and the girls are famed for their beauty. The town lies on the Danube River, and owes its name to an age-old custom obliging the bride and bridegroom to plant a grapevine before their marriage (Novi Sad - new plantation). The area surrounding Novi Sad is great for picnics and outings: just outside the town, there is Fruška Gora National Park with 16 monasteries, a small town of Sremski Karlovci with its museum of honey and wine cellars, and keen supporters of ‘slow food’ movement will find heaven on earth in many traditional farmsteads (salaši) and the restaurants on the Danube, the latter offering fish specialties and gypsy music.

Petrovaradin Fortress is one of the largest fortresses in Europe. It was built and rebuilt between 1692 and 1780, its design based on the system of fortification developed by French Marquis de Vauban. The fortress covers an area of 112 hectares, and has 13 gates and 16km of underground passages spread over 4 levels. Owing to its size, thick walls and 400 cannons, it was considered unconquerable and earned the name of the ‘Gibraltar on the Danube’. The erstwhile barracks and underground passages are nowadays converted into the premises of the Museum of the City and numerous art ateliers, galleries, and artisan workshops. The terrace of the fortress, by the Clock Tower, boasts splendid views of the town. The clock on the Tower is unique in that the big hand tells hours and the small one minutes. This was allegedly done so that the boatmen travelling on the Danube could see the time from a long distance. The clock is slow when it is cold and fast when it is hot, so people have dubbed it a ‘drunken

Fruška Gora Mountain A lonely mountain in the gentle Pannonian Plain, not far from Novi Sad. It spreads about 80 km lengthwise east to west and about 12-15 km north to south. The highest peak is Crveni Čot at 539. This lovely mountain enjoys protection by the state, as it has been proclaimed a national park. Pastures, orchards and vineyards adorn its slopes, and the higher regions are covered with dense deciduous forests (the largest linden community in Europe) providing shelter for various animals, such as deer, doe, mouflon, jackal, boar and lynx. Fruška Gora attracts everyone who loves beautiful landscapes, a swim in the mountain lake, fishing or hunting, picking mushrooms, mountaineering, visiting monasteries or wine tasting... You can also see vestiges of several fortifications and other archaeological sites. Walking trails are several kilometres long and well marked. Founded between the 12th and 15th centuries, orthodox monasteries were the heart of the spiritual and cultural life of Serbs during the Turkish occupation. Notable persons from Serbian history lie buried in Krušedol Monastery: Despot Đurađ Branković, King Milan Obrenović, Princess Ljubica, Patriarch Arsenije III Čarnojević... Only 16 monasteries out of 35 have been preserved to this day - most were ravaged and looted during the 2nd World War and they enjoy UNESCO protection (which did not stop NATO forces from damaging six monasteries in the 1999 air campaign against Serbia).

July - September 2008

where to stay Belgrade could easily do with more hotels, in every category. There are days, on big international events, when there are no rooms to be had in Belgrade, not for love or money. If you seek comfort and luxury, there is an array of hotels built over the past ten years, well worth their price tags. On the budget end, you can get a nice and cheap cabin in a floating hostel moored in the Danube, offering a great view of an island providing refuge for 196 bird species. You should be ware of some of the old hotels, where the time seems to have stopped in late eighties, for better or for worse.

Cream of the crop

Aleksandar Palas C -2, Kralja Petra 13 -15, tel. 330 53 00, fax 330 53 34, aleksandar@legis.co.yu, www.aleksandarpalas.com. A luxurious little boutique hotel, situated in the city centre, close to Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan. The hotel building was constructed in 1887. The suites are elegantly furnished, with each suite featuring a DVD surround sound system and 4Mb/s high-speed Internet connection. The hotel is famous for its Kraljevina restaurant with a traditional Serbian cuisine and the popular ¿Que Passa? club-restaurant with its pleasant atmosphere, Latin American cuisine and live music on the weekends. 49 suites (€250-300). Prices include VAT, English breakfast and airport transfer. PTRFKAL ««««« Hyatt Regency B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301 12 34, fax 311 22 34, belgrade.regency@hyattintl.com, www.belgrade.regency.hyatt.com. Situated between the Sava Congress Centre and Ušće Business Centre, it is the most luxurious hotel in Belgrade, with efficient and professional service that makes it ideal for all types of meetings and events. The Foccacia restaurant, which frequently features various international cuisines, also has a popular Sunday brunch between noon and 17:00. 4302 rooms and suites (rooms €187-337, executive suite €327-€477, diplomatic suite €1187- €1337, presidential suite €1487-€1637). Prices include breakfast (buffet). VAT not included. PTR FKDAHULGC ««««« President, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 207 52 00, fax 207 52 60, prodaja@president-belgrade.com, www. president-belgrade.com. A small, lavishly furnished hotel, located in the Kovilovo Sports Centre, 12 km from the centre of the city. Far from any city noise, the compound stretches over 26 hectares of parks and grassy areas, and is surrounded by a 100 hectare woodland area (ideal for bird-watching). The compound includes one of the best shooting ranges for clay targets in Europe, tennis courts, a sporting and hunting equipment shop, a shooting school, as well as dog kennels. 417 rooms and 10 suites (singles

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

€120-150, doubles €150-180, junior suite €220, superior suite €240). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PTRFKD6AHLGC ««««« Zlatnik, Slavonska 26, tel. 316 75 11, fax 316 72 35, office@hotelzlatnik.com, www.hotelzlatnik.com. Small and oozing with comfort, the hotel is located 7km from the city centre, on a peaceful street in Zemun. The hotel was built as an extension to a well-known restaurant with one of the best cuisines in town. It is recognized for its high-quality service, and is ideal for business people seeking a peaceful rest far from the hustle and bustle of city life. 437 rooms and 4 suites (singles €115-146, doubles €156-170, junior suite €170-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLG «««««

Upmarket

Admiral Club D-2, Venizelosova 31, tel. 303 82 70, fax 303 82 71, www.hacb.co.yu. The hotel was originally built in 1935 as a residential villa for the mayor of Belgrade. It is situated 2 km from the centre, in a part of town that is not a particularly attractive walking area. Apart from the standard rooms, lavishly furnished with period pieces, the hotel also has a room furnished in the Russian Empire style (19th century), another in the French Empire style (19th century), and one furnished in the Italian Baroque style (18th century). All rooms have large, well-equipped bathrooms. There is a 15% price increase during Belgrade Fair events. 415 rooms and 2 suites (singles €190-210, doubles €240260, suites €330-350). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAHL «««« Balkan C-2, Prizrenska 2, tel. 363 60 00, fax 268 75 81, rezervacije@balkanhotel.net, www.balkanhotel. net. Constructed in 1935 and recently renovated, it is located on Terazije square, in the heart of the city. The rooms are clean, if a little cramped and basic, but they boast an

where to stay exceptional view of the busy city centre. The pleasant Orient Express restaurant on the ground level features international specialties. 475 rooms and 5 suites (singles €113-164, doubles €129-180, suites €200-246). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAG «««« Best Western M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 309 04 01, fax 309 05 01, office@hotel-m.com, www. hotel-m.com. The hotel is in a rather peaceful part of town, in a forest park area near the highway and the Red Star and Partizan football stadiums, 15 minutes by car from the city centre. It is renowned for its good service, which has built a large base of returning clientele. Aside from attracting business people, this hotel has also become a favourite of sports players participating in sports events in Belgrade. Most of the rooms have a view of the woodland area. 4170 rooms and 8 suites (singles €100-152, doubles €125-172, suites €170-215). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHUG «««« Best Western Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 305 41 00, fax: 355 43 68, office@hotelsumadija.com, www.hotelsumadija.com. Located in the Banovo Brdo section of the city, 8km from the city centre and 2km from the Belgrade fairgrounds, it is in close proximity to both the Ada Ciganlija and Košutnjak recreational areas. The service is excellent, and the hotel has recently been renovated and adapted to suit the needs of business people. The rooms are comfortable and decorated in pastel colours. 497 rooms and 6 suites (singles €115-120, doubles €135, suites €160). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKADHG «««« Continental B-2, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 220 42 04, fax 311 14 02, ihcbegha@eunet.yu, www.ichbg.com. Situated in New Belgrade and attached to the Sava Congress Centre, this spacious hotel is only a five minute drive from the city centre. It belonged to the Intercontinental Hotel chain until recently, and is currently awaiting a new owner and renovation. The hotel lobby is as sizeable as a terminal in a small airport, with rooms that are large but decorated in a style that must have seemed the height of fashion in the 1980s. The staff is very responsive to customers’ needs. 4415 rooms and 15 suites (singles €175, doubles €185, suites €290-800). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKD6AHULGC «««« Holiday Inn A-2, Španskih boraca 74, tel. 310 00 00, fax 310 01 00, www.holidayinn.com. A new, modern hotel, founded in 2007, and positioned next to the railway tracks, in a section of New Belgrade that is still under construction. It is ideal for people on business since it has a business centre, 14 meeting and conference rooms, and the Expo XXI

International Centre is adjacent to the hotel. 4140 rooms (singles €180, doubles €205, 1 suite €250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRFKD6 A HULG «««« In, A -2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310 53 00, fax 310 53 51, frontoffice@inhotelbelgrade.co.yu, www.inhotel-belgrade.com. A new hotel, founded in 2006, located directly off the highway, in close proximity to the Belgrade Arena. The rooms are spacious, decorated in light colours and with modern furniture. An interesting feature is the glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the room. The Rooftop Bar and Lounge is an attractive spot for enjoying cocktails in the sun. The hotel is perfect for business people because it includes conference rooms and a business centre, as well as a fitness centre with a relaxation massage option. No children are allowed. 4187 Rooms (90 singles €165, 66 doubles €185, 28suites €220290). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRFKD6A ULG «««« Le Petit Piaf C-2, Skadarska 34, tel. 303 52 52, fax 303 53 53, office@petitpiaf.com, www.petitpiaf. com. Founded in 2004, it is located in the heart of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija near the city centre. The rooms are light and clean, and are furnished in a modern style. The hotel has a French restaurant. 47 rooms and 5 junior suites (singles €151, doubles €181, suites €184-220). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PRKAG ««« Majestic C-2, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 328 57 77, fax 328 49 95, office@majestic.co.yu, www.majestic.co.yu. Established in 1937, this small, comfortable hotel has a tradition of professional, high-quality service. Situated in the city centre, directly off Knez Mihailova street, it is surrounded by restaurants and cafés. This hotel is suitable for both tourists and business people. The rooms are clean, but oldfashioned. This hotel takes great pride in its King Suite, as it holds a Certificate of Approval for quality management and the HACCP system. 487 rooms and 6 suites (singles €70105, doubles €130, suites €155-205). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLG ««««

www.inyourpocket.com

July - September 2008

where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Moskva C-2, Balkanska 1, tel. 268 62 55, fax 268 83 89, info@hotelmoskva.co.yu, www.hotelmoskva.co.yu. This elegant hotel on Terazije square is one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building was constructed in 1907 and is under state protection. The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture and an impressive collection of paintings. What is unique about this hotel is that is has 40 duplex rooms, and it is also the only hotel outside Russia with that name (Moscow). For many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, a piece of the famous Moscow cake, and a treat to live piano music. 4112 rooms and 4 suites (singles €98, doubles €140, suites €275). Prices include VAT and English breakfast. PTRK6AUG «««« Mr. President C-2, Karađorđeva 75, tel. 360 22 22, www.hotelmrpresident.com. A new, recently opened hotel, situated in a modern glass building across from the Central Railway and Bus Stations, well-known for its portraits of famous world statesmen and dictators in each room. The interior design of the hotel is somewhat exaggerated and accented by colourful, neon lighting. The rooms are clean and furnished in a modern style, but are somewhat lacking in daylight. 450 rooms and 11 suites (singles €139, doubles €169, suites €249-444). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKALG Palace C-2, Topličin venac 23, tel. 218 55 85, fax 218 44 58, office@palacehotel.co.yu, www.palacehotel. co.yu. Located in a side street in the city centre, this hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan fortress and park. It was founded in 1923, and has a number of returning guests that do not wish to stay at any other hotel. Since it is an integral part of a catering school, a number of students attending the school work in the hotel. The restaurant on the very top floor has a nice view of the city, but the interior decoration borders on kitsch. 471 rooms and 15 suites (singles €57-69, doubles €88-100, suites €116-128). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). POTRKAHG «««« Slavija Lux C-3, Svetog Save 2, tel. 242 11 20, fax 344 29 31, rezervacija_lux@slavijahotel.com, www. slavijahotel.com. Set in a modern, glass building on Slavija square, the biggest intersection in the city, only 1 km from the city centre and the Central Railway Station. The rooms are clean but rather distastefully decorated in a 1980’s style (at the risk of repeating ourselves, let us say again that this is a very frequent occurrence when it comes to hotels awaiting privatisation). The Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor has a nice view of the city. 478 rooms and 12 suites (singles €107, doubles €140, suites €165-184). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). POTRFK ALG ««««

Zira, Ruzveltova 35 D-2, tel. 331 48 00, fax 331 48 01, www.zirahotels.com. The recently-built Belgrade hotel. The rooms are designed in a contemporary style and equipped with the latest technology. The staff members are young and eager to prove themselves, and the food in the restaurant is prepared by an experienced Italian chef. The hotel has a spacious underground garage and direct access to the Zira Shopping Mall and large supermarket. Walks to the centre of the city are recommended only to the very enthusiastic - others will have to rely on taxis. 116 rooms and 8 suites (doubles €165). Price include breakfast (English). VAT not included. PRGFLKAU««««

Mid-range

Kasina, Terazije 25 C-2, tel. 323 55 74, fax 323 82 57. One of the oldest hotels in town, located in the very centre. The interior desperately needs restoration but is nevertheless clean. You can chose between rooms with a good view of the street and quieter rooms in the back section of the hotel. The rooms that have been renovated are decent. The elevator is not for those who fear confined spaces. There is a pub on the ground floor, where they serve home-brewed draught beer. 97 rooms and 5 suites (singles €42-80, doubles €81-102, suites €118-127). Price include VAT and breakfast. APRK ««« Lav, Cara Dušana 240, tel. 316 32 89, fax 316 26 48, www.hotellav.co.rs. A small hotel in the outskirts of Zemun. A twenty-minute ride by public transportation to the centre of the city. The rooms are decent and clean. It will appeal to those who like flower patterns on chairs and armchairs. 24 hr room service. The rooms are also rented out for daytime rest. 29 rooms and 2 suites (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price include VAT and breakfast. APRKGHL «« Orašac, Luke Vojvodića 25n, tel. 256 10 90, www. hotelorasac.co.yu. A small hotel in the suburbs, some 12km away from the centre of the city (20-30min. taxi ride from the centre, depending on the time of the day). The Košutnjak forest park is close by, with its many attractions, not least great nature walks and sports facilities. Rooms are nice and well-appointed, the apartments are furnished with a mini-kitchen. The hotel sometime hosts wedding receptions on weekends and on such days you will not be able to use their restaurant. 7 rooms and 6 suites (singles/doubles €100, suites €130). Price include VAT and breakfast. Simboli: APRKLG6H ««« Park, Njegoševa 2-4 C-3, tel. 364 03 83, fax 364 03 93. Excellent downtown location in a small street lined with cafes. Rooms are small and modest, and your experience with the staff will vary depending on who happens to be on duty. Although the hotel has changed hands some time ago, little or nothing has been done to improve the quality of service and offer, let alone refurbish the interior. 131 rooms (singles €50-65, doubles €82-105, triples €105-125, suites €105-125). Price include VAT and breakfast. Simboli: AP RKHL ««« Rex, Sarajevska 37 C-3, tel. 361 18 62, fax 361 29 65, www.hotelrex-belgrade.com. A small hotel in a noisy street near the Train Station. Most of the rooms have been

July - September 2008

Where to stay recently renovated and offer an adequate level of comfort for the price you pay. The beds are comfortable, the rooms are clean, and the staff is friendly. There is a supermarket near by, and one of the most popular night clubs in the city is just across the street from the hotel. 92 rooms (singles €70, doubles €90, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price include VAT and breakfast. APKHL ««« Skala, Bežanijska 3, tel. 307 50 32, www.hotelskala. co.yu. Located in a beautiful old house in the centre of Zemun, which is a 15 minute drive from the city centre. The rooms are nice and cosy, and the staff is friendly. The spacious hotel restaurant, known for its attractive ambiance, frequently hosts weddings and other festive events. 414 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €86, suites €96). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKA ««« Slodes, Borska 92f, tel. 305 55 18, www.hotelslodes. com. A new hotel, founded at the end of 2006, set in an unseemly building located 8km from the city centre. Though the rooms are not very large or tastefully decorated, they are nevertheless clean, and some of them have a jacuzzi. This is the ideal hotel for sports players, since there is a large sports hall situated right next to the hotel, and it is available to guests of the hotel. Rooms for daytime use only are also available until 18:00 for the price of €30. 424 rooms and 2 suites (singles €50-80, doubles €70-100, suites €119). P RFKALG ««« Splendid C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 5, tel. 323 54 44, fax 334 12 00, reservation@splendid.co.yu, www. splendid.co.yu. It is situated in the centre of the city, across from the entrance to the public garage beside the City Assembly. Constructed in 1937, it was last renovated 20 years ago. It features only a bar and an Internet café, and is thus suitable for people on business whose only desire is to get a good night’s rest. 449 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PA ««« Srbija, Ustanička 137c, tel. 289 04 04, fax 289 24 62, office@hotelsrbija.com, www.hotelsrbija.com. Set in an 18-storey concrete building close to the highway, and 6km from the city centre. Most of the rooms have recently been renovated and equipped with modern - yet not overly attractive - furniture. Some single bedrooms have no air conditioning. The hotel is frequently visited by large groups of tourists and sports teams. 4233 rooms and 13 suites (singles €47-60, doubles €66, suites €89-115). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTKALG «««

Budget

Astoria C-2, Milovana Milovanovića 1, tel. 360 51 00, fax 360 51 40, astoria@astoria.co.yu, www.astoria. co.yu. Set in an ungainly building dating from 1938, near the Railway Station. A renovation of 2001 has not done much to revamp its looks. The rooms are simple and clean. This hotel is ideal for those who missed the last train and just need a place to spend the night. 470 rooms and 4 suites (singles €35-42, doubles €55-62, suites €66-89). PKA ««« Excelsior C-2, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 323 13 81, fax 323 19 51, hotelexcelsior@beotel.yu, www.hotelexcelsior. co.yu. Located in the city centre, near the Parliament. It was established in 1926, and even though it is in need of renovation, the rooms are still decent. Make sure you get a room with a view of the street and the Pionirski park. This hotel also has a nondescript night club with shabby furniture and a striptease programme. 456 rooms (singles €30,

Belgrade In Your Pocket

doubles €45). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PK A «« N, Bilećka 57, tel. 397 21 83, office@hotel-n.co.yu, www.hotel-n.co.yu. Opened in 1996, it is situated in a residential neighbourhood, 20 minutes by car from the centre of the city. Although the hotel is somewhat remote, the rooms are decent and furnished in a modern style. Holders of the Euro<26 youth card are entitled to a 50% discount. 4111 rooms (singles €31-62, doubles €68-85). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHG ««« Pošta C -2 , Savska 3, tel. 361 42 60, of f ice@ hotelpostabg.com, www.hotelpostabg.com. Established in 1938 and recently renovated, it is in close vicinity of the Railway Station. It is a small and pleasant hotel, known for its hospitality and friendly staff. 24h room service, internetcafe. 432 rooms (singles €31, doubles €46). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKA ««« Prag C-2, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 361 04 22, fax 361 26 91, hotelprag@sezampro.yu, www.hotelprag.co.yu. Situated in the city centre, in a building under state protection. Although the rooms are clean, the hotel is in desperate need of renovation. Its multi-coloured and distastefully decorated interior is sure to repel those who seek a pleasing décor. 4116 rooms (singles €50-62, doubles €72). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKA ««« Royal, C-1, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 263 42 22, fax 262 64 59, toplice@net.yu, www.hotelroyal.co.yu. This is the oldest functioning hotel in the city, dating back to 1886 and last renovated in 1973. It is close to the city centre and Kalemegdan. The rooms are clean but fairly basic, and some do not have air conditioning. Rooms are also available for daytime use only. The hotel is known for its inexpensive but quality restaurant which is open around the clock. Its small shop and Internet café are also open around the clock. 4105 rooms and 15 suites (singles €30-38, doubles €40-55, suites €72). Prices include VAT and continental breakfast. PKAG««« Slavija, Svetog Save 1-9 C-3, tel. 344 30 11, fax 243 15 17, www.slavijahotel.com. Also known as Slavija 2 or Slavija B. Certainly not among the best hotels in town. The service is not so bad as the place itself, literally falling apart, and waiting for a new owner to renovate it. Most hostels will offer much better accommodation. On the upside: you will probably be able to find a room here when all other hotels are full, excellent location close to the centre of the city, Jat Airways shuttle bus service to the airport departs in front of the hotel, garage. 161 rooms and 12 suites (singles €40, doubles €50, triples €55, suites €75). Price include VAT and breakfast. AHK «« Taš, C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. 324 35 07, info@hoteltas.com, www.hotel-tas.com. A smallish hotel, with all its walls painted blue, located in the Tašmajdan sports centre near the centre of the city. Rooms for daytime use only are available until 18:00 for the price of €11-17. 415 rooms and 2 suites (singles €32, doubles €45, suites €65). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PKA «« Trim, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 354 06 69, office@ trim.org.yu, www.trim.org.yu. Situated in the Košutnjak forest park area, 9km from the centre, and far from any city noise. Most of the small but clean and cosy rooms have a view of the park. 423 rooms and 1 suite (singles €35, doubles €57, suite €63). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAHL ««

Where to stay Guest houses

City Code, Dobračina 26 C -2, tel. 328 85 00, www.hotelcitycode.com. Luxury apartments with a contemporary interior, in close proximity to the city centre. Also in the vicinity is Stahinjića Bana street, famous for its numerous bars and restaurants. Discrete service, 24hr room service. The street these apartments are located on is not very busy or noisy, except for when trolleybuses pass by on their way to the garage. 6 rooms (singles €100, doubles €120). Price include VAT and breakfast. APRG Kraljičini apartmani, C-2, Đure Daničića 13, tel. 322 90 89, fax 322 48 19, office@kraljiciniapartmani.com, www.kraljiciniapartmani.com. Located in a house dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, not far from the city centre. Apartments are quite spacious (120 m2) and well-equipped, and include a kitchen and a jacuzzi. A pleasant restaurant, the Pogođena Patka, is located on the ground level. Concierge service. 42 suites (singles €150, doubles €200, four person €300). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKA Rezime Diamond, C-2, Rajićeva 16, tel. 334 80 88, fax 328 46 56, office@rezime-hoteldiamond.com, www.rezime-hoteldiamond.com. Luxury apartments, located in a three-storey building with no lift, in a small and peaceful street close to Kalemegdan fortress and park. The apartments consist of a living room, a bedroom with a kingsize bed, and a bathroom. Each apartment is decorated in the colour of a precious stone: ruby, sapphire, emerald, or amber. Concierge and Chauffeur service. 46 suites (€135160). Included in the price is an a-la-carte breakfast for one, with a €15 surcharge for the second person. PRA

Rezime Residence, C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. 262 91 81, fax 328 46 56, reservation@rezimeapartments. co.yu, www.rezimeapartments.co.yu. Elegantly furnished apartments (30-60m2) set in a building which is protected as a cultural heritage, and situated in a small street in the city centre. There is a public garage in the close vicinity of the hotel, and Knez Mihailova street is also close by. It is suitable for those who require peace and isolation, since entrance to the building is permitted only to guests of the hotel. 420 suites (Classic €115, Business €135, Residental €150). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PRA Travelling Actor C-2, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 323 41 56, www.travellingactor.com. If you take a right after entering through the old wooden door, this will lead you to another nondescript door at the very end of the hallway, where you will find rooms for rent. Though not very large, each of these wonderfully comfortable rooms includes cable TV, a mini-bar and a contemporary bathroom. Some of the rooms have a view of Skadarlija - the vintage street packed with restaurants and galleries. The friendly staff will adapt check-in/check-out times to suit customers’ needs. The building’s ground level harbours a tiny restaurant with check tablecloths, featuring Serbian and Italian specialties. 45 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80). PRA

July - September 2008

where to stay Villa Kalemegdan C-1, Strahinjića Bana 7, tel. 263 78 56, fax 218 55 86, reservation@villakalemegdan.com, www.villakalemegdan.com. Wonderfully decorated luxury suites, situated in the immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan park, in a peaceful section of a street famous for its numerous cafés and restaurants. Apart from the standard bathroom, the Royal Suite also has a jacuzzi. 46 suites (singles €100, doubles €125). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRA Villa Marija, Debarska 12, tel. 244 84 84, vilabgd@ vila-marijabgd.com, www.vila-marijabgd.com. Located in a peaceful, residential neighbourhood just a few kilometres from the city centre, this hotel has comfortable and wellequipped rooms. The guests may use the common living room, the well-equipped kitchen, as well as the spacious terrace providing an excellent setting for BBQ. 410 rooms (singles €80, doubles €80). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRALG

Camp

Dunav, Batajnički put bb, tel. 316 76 30, fax 316 02 57. The only location in the city where it’s officially allowed to put up a tent. It is not that close to the centre, but rather behind Zemun, on the right-hand side of the road leading towards Batajnica, 12 km from the city centre. The camp is nicely arranged, with a lot of green areas and a view over the Danube. The central building contains 12 shower cabins and rooms for rent (though modest, each has a TV, air conditioning and a bathroom). Staying at the camp is cheap, but it’s not a great choice for those without a car. It is open all year round. 150 spaces (with electrical outlets) for tents and campers, 6 rooms, 7 bungalows.

 The Belgrade telephone code is +381 11 Belgrade In Your Pocket

where to stay Hostels After No 1 C-2, Obilićev venac 8, 263 10 73. Situated in the very centre of the city. Relatively clean, shared rooms with multiple beds. A large kitchen. The bathroom is always crowded, and the men’s and women’s shower compartments are located in the same area. 42 doubles € 35 per room, 6-bed dorm €12 per bed, 8-bed dorm €12 per bed, 10-bed dorm €12 per bed. P

hostel is currently under renovation, but it’s a rather slow process, which means that the chances of finding a bed available are still high. Common bathrooms, but separate for men and women. Each room has a washbasin, and some even have their own shower cabin. 441 doubles €2237, 6 triples €26-33, 3 suites €45, 5 4-bed dorms €9.75, 3 8-bed dorms €8.75. Prices include VAT. PKO6A

ArkaBarka floating Belgrade hostel A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. (064)925 35 07, www.arkabarka. net. A floating hostel on the Danube, made of wood and surrounded by trees, perfect for nature-lovers who like waking up to the sweet songs of birds and wouldn’t mind taking a short walk to the first bus stop. The rooms are nice and clean. They also have a lovely bar on the water where parties are occasionally held. 42 doubles €35 per room, 4 triples €47 per room, 2 suites €50-60 per suite. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKA6LG

Crossroad C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 263 75 70, www.crossroad-hostel.com. This is a nicely decorated, cosy apartment, situated near the city centre, with a living room, dining room, kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms. Clean and comfy. 44-bed dorm €14.7, 6-bed dorm €12.3 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRAG

Belgrade Eye C-2, Krunska 6b, tel. 334 64 23, www. belgradeeye.com. A recently renovated hostel in a small, two-storey house slightly hidden from the street, near the city centre. Miniature multiple-bed rooms, a spacious living room, and decent bathrooms. Try to avoid the room in the yard, removed from the main building. 41 double €17.2-25, 1 triple €13.7-25, 6-bed dorm €11.4-20. PRG California C-1, Cara Uroša 37b, tel. 218 41 04, www. hostel-california.com. Not far from the city centre, near Strahinjića Bana street – known for its numerous bars and cafés. A wide variety of rooms, from those with multiple beds and lazy bags for relaxation to a single room with a queen-size bed. A tastefully decorated, clean hostel. Friendly owners. 41 triple €48 per room, 1 suite €36 per suite, 6-bed dorm €10 per bed, 10-bed dorm €10 per bed. P Central Station C-2, Karađorđeva 87, tel. 26 85 067, www.hostelcentralstation.com. Situated on the first storey of an old house across from the Train Station. Although the building’s façade and ground floor hallway appear run-down, the hostel itself is quite decent. The rooms are large and clean, decorated with bright colours, and there’s a sufficient number of toilets and shower compartments. There’s also a common mini-kitchen where guests can prepare their own food. 42 doubles €20, 4-bed dorm €15, 6-bed dorm €13, 8-bed dorm €12, 10-bed dorm €12 (prices per bed). PG Chilton C-3, Katanićeva 7, 344 18 26. Even though it’s about a 2 km distance from the centre, this is still one of the most popular hostels. The rooms are filled with beds, there are only two toilets and two shower compartments, but there’s also a very comfortable living room and a large kitchen with a wood-burning stove, which is a favourite congregation point for guests. The friendly staff keep the guests informed about upcoming club events and concerts. 4 4-bed dorm €15-19, 6-bed dorm €8-15, 10-bed dorm €10-13 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRG City Center C-2, Savski trg 7, tel. 264 40 55, www. hostelcitycenterbelgrade.com. A huge hostel opposite the Train Station. The furniture and rugs are quite old, but the rooms are sunny and clean, and offer nice views. This

Licej Club D-2, Venizelosova 31, tel. 339 24 58, www. licejkon.com. Situated 2 km from the city centre, right next to the Admiral Club Hotel. They have single rooms with bathrooms, but also twin rooms with shared bathrooms – each with a washbasin. The rooms are clean and nicely decorated. This hostel is ideal for those who seek a peaceful rest rather than a social environment. 411 rooms (singles €23-26.5, doubles 18.5). Prices include VAT. PRKA Tash-Inn C-2, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 61, tel. 323 00 29, www.tash-inn.com. The beds are located in a large room from which there is direct access to Tašmajdan Park. Even though the rooms are not that comfortable and the bathroom is usually over-crowded, its convenient location makes this a very popular hostel. 416-bed dorm €10-12per bed. There is a 70% price increase during some events. P6G Three Black Cats C-2, Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel. 262 98 26, www.hostel.co.yu. Very close to Knez Mihailova street, but somewhat difficult to find. The small and cramped hostel with colourful walls covered in posters is frequented by outgoing young people, as this is the ideal place for them to recuperate from all-night partying… after which they can find neither their socks nor their beds. 44bed dorm €11.5, 6-bed dorm €12.5 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRG Tis, Koste Abraševića 17, tel. 380 60 50, www. tishostel.co.yu. A large house with a yard far from the city centre, in a peaceful residential area. The common living room is comprised of a few separate sections. There is also a large kitchen, and an attractive backyard where barbecues are often organised in good weather. It is possible to rent the entire hostel for larger groups. 43 doubles €14.7, 8 6-bed dorms 12.7 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRALG Yachting Club Kej B-1, Ušće bb, tel. 316 54 32, www. klubkej.com. A floating hostel on the Danube. Guests are accommodated in twin-bed cabins with large windows. A sufficient number of toilets and showers. Very clean. There’s a restaurant on the boat, as well as a catamaran which takes guests cruising down the Danube every night, and offers home-brewed draught beer along with music. 49 doubles €10 per bed. RK6AHG

July - September 2008

restaurants Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances this country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be more spicy.

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Chinese

888 C - 3, Birčaninova 16, tel. 265 95 42 , www.888restoran.co.yu. The classiest Chinese restaurant in town. The owners are Chinese, and the waiters are locals. The quality of the food varies - some dishes are exquisitely prepared and some are below average (the ones for which the cooks used a package of frozen mixed vegetables - a truly outrageous culinary act, at least according to Belgrade standards!). The menu includes a wide variety of vegetarian dishes, as well as a photograph of each dish, making it easier for the customer to decide. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PTBAS Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 218 19 31, www. peking.co.yu. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant - established nearly thirty years ago, with a long-standing tradition of quality. Tucked into one of the side streets in the city centre, this restaurant always has a table available. They have various specialties from different regions in China, as well as Chinese wines, brandy and teas. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. PTBASG

French

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel. 364 06 25. The only French bistro in town. The food is generally decent but can sometimes be a real let-down, especially if the place is crowded. The interior features a long bar, tables that are pushed too close together, and large mirrors on the walls. The service could use some improvement. During the day the atmosphere here is quite enjoyable, but in the evenings the bar area tends to be noisy and swarming with people, so it’s not exactly the best option for an intimate dinner date. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PBRA

Fusion

Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. 334 86 90, www.majikcafe.com. An attractive restaurant designed by the famed Karim Rashid. Modern art enthusiasts will find it fascinating regardless of the food, which tends to be rather bland. The Funky Fusion Food Menu is designed to reflect the restaurant’s unusual interior design (with colourchanging walls), but it still falls short of satisfying the taste buds of a true hedonist. The glass wall dividing the kitchen from the restaurant will reveal that not all cooks are wearing their caps. Local DJs perform in the evenings. The general impression is enhanced by the amiable hostess and the fantastic chocolate soufflé. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. PBRAS

Greek

Zorba D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. 337 65 47, www.zorba. co.yu. A restaurant with a number of authentic specialties from various regions of Greece. All dishes are prepared with olive oil. Greek wines are available. One of the five restaurants in the world guarding the secret recipe for the topping of the famous Rota pie. The unimpressive interior

Belgrade In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person) Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person) Cheap € (Less than €8 per person)

shouldn’t be an issue, as this place is well worth visiting for one compelling reason - the truly good food. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBASG

Indian

Indian Palace, Ljubićka 1b, tel. 344 62 35, www. indianpalace.co.yu. A restaurant with a pleasing ambiance, where you can try superbly prepared Indian specialties made with original Indian spices. Some of the dishes are extremely spicy, so be sure to tell your waiter if you prefer a milder version of the meal. There are no Indian beverages served. Since the restaurant is located in a remote area of town and is rather pricey, it’s more or less empty on weekdays. The best way to get there is by taxi. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PUBASG

International

Balzac C-1, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel. 328 59 06, www.balzac.co.yu. A small restaurant with an enjoyable atmosphere, famous for its meat specialties and uniquely decorated desserts. Its ambiance, food and service makes it a favourite of foreigners in Belgrade. Rakija is served in amounts smaller than is normally the custom. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PBRAS Franš C-3, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 264 19 44, www.frans.co.yu. An elegant restaurant named after the French general, Franchet d’Esperey. It has an incredibly extensive menu with Serbian and international dishes, an excellent selection of wines (over 400 types from all parts of the world), and specialties made of black or white truffles. This restaurant also owns an impressive collection of paintings decorating the walls. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBASL Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. 328 89 95, www. little-bay.co.uk. An unusual interior reminiscent of an opera setting. The waiters are dressed in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse, each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day you can enjoy famous opera tunes, and in the evenings live performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the cake: the food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in town! 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €. PRAEG

Restaurants Loža C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 262 86 85. A well-hidden restaurant on the first storey of an old building on Obilićev venac street. Upon entering the building, you will find a wine store and a miniature lift that will take you up to the next level. The elegant interior with crystal chandeliers is divided into a restaurant section and a charming café section. This restaurant is somewhat isolated from the street, and as there is always a table available, there’s no need to reserve in advance. The food here is first-rate, and recommendations from the waiters should be taken seriously since they have inside information about the freshest options available. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PA Kalemegdanska Terasa B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel. 328 30 11, www.kalemegdanskaterasa.com. The only restaurant situated within the Belgrade Fortress, famous for its terrace and breathtaking view of the Danube. It has a very pleasing ambiance, an excellent cuisine, and a wide selection of wines. Reservations are recommended, as the restaurant is often rented out for banquets and cocktail parties. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL Madera C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 323 13 32, www.maderarestoran.com. A renowned Belgrade restaurant with an elegant interior and beautiful terrace located on the periphery of Tašmajdan Park. The food is first-rate, and apart from the national specialties on the menu, the Italian chef also made sure to include some Italian specialties and desserts. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL Na ćošku C-3, Beogradska 37, tel. 323 64 70, www. nacosku.co.yu. An exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food, but also for its first-rate service and enjoyable ambiance. A place where great attention is paid to

details, and where customer satisfaction is the number one priority. Though the menu is somewhat sparse, it features carefully selected Mediterranean specialties. This restaurant is ideal both for large groups and romantic couples, and the best tables are those by the window. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PA Opera C-2, Nušićeva 8, tel. 323 87 67. A charming little restaurant, ideal both for short business lunches and romantic occasions. The classic style furniture with its intricate designs borders on kitsch, but it is nevertheless comfortable to sit on. The food and wine menu is so diverse that everyone can find something to their liking. The waiters are hospitable, but at times overly insistent with their food recommendations. 4Open 09:30 - 00:30, Sun 11:30 23:30. €€. PTUBAS Pogođena patka (The Shot Duck) C-2, Đure Daničića 13, 334 04 60, www.pogodjenapatka.com. A very nice restaurant in the basement of an old house where Queen Draga Mašin lived before she got married (see page 9, year 1903). It is close enough to the city centre for an enjoyable stroll. The clientele varies - from business people to romantic couples. Apart from the duck specialties, they offer a number of meat and fish dishes as well as excellent desserts. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGBGSR Principal - Diners Club B-2, Ušće bb, tel. 214 04 67. A floating restaurant with an unforgettable view of old-town

July - September 2008

restaurants Belgrade, regardless of whether you are seated inside or on the terrace just above the water of the Sava River. The kind waiters will make sure you spend a perfect afternoon by the river. The menu is extensive, with a variety of superblyprepared fish and meat dishes, but sometimes they can go a little overboard with the olive oil. The interior is a bit shabby and the restroom is tiny, but it is still considered one of the most beautiful in the city. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. APBGE

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Steakhouse El Toro C-2, Masarikova 5, tel. 361 24 29, www.eltoro.co.yu. This small, contemporary restaurant with a simple, clean-lined interior specialises in meat dishes, and is located near the Beogradjanka building. It is ideal for short business lunches. You’ll make no mistake if you order one of the beefsteaks on offer or the t-bone steak. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBASL Žabar A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 319 12 26, www. zabar.co.yu. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Belgrade, situated on a raft on the Danube river quay. It is ideal both for couples and large crowds, as guests have the option of isolating themselves in booths. The quality of food and high prices attract numerous Serbian celebrities. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALG

Italian

Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42 A, tel. 303 68 67. A cosy little duplex restaurant, popular particularly among foreigners. The tall windows allow you to observe passers-by even when seated in the upper section. Excellent service and a good selection of Italian wines. The specialty of the house is the Sicilian Wheel - a spicy meat dish that might seem a bit intimidating at first, but in actuality is just the right size for one reasonably hungry customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBRAS Bella Napoli, Zmaj Jovina 35 (Zemun), tel. 219 81 62, www.bellanapoli.co.yu. An Italian restaurant situated near the Danube quay in Zemun. The waiters will do their best to turn your visit here into a truly hedonistic experience. A pleasing ambiance, extensive wine list, and one of the most beautiful open terraces in town. This is just the place to unwind to the mellow sounds of the music of Naples and, occasionally, Latino tunes. 4Open 12:00-24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PBAL Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 328 30 69, www.ipanema.co.yu. The oldest restaurant on this street and one of the most pleasant spots in the city centre. Light Mediterranean cuisine abundant in basil and olive oil. They

Belgrade In Your Pocket

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

offer pastas, meat dishes, a variety of salads and fresh vegetables, and they are also famous for their excellent cakes and good music which completes the experience. The waiters are friendly but can be a little slow with the orders when the garden area is full. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PBASG Ottimo C-2, Studentski trg 10, tel. 328 64 54. Situated next to the Studenstki Park. A charming and romantic little restaurant with a multitude of interesting decorations on the walls and one of the most inventive open terrace solutions in town. The menu features a large selection of Italian specialties, including an excellent tiramisu, prepared fresh on the premises. The waiters are efficient and friendly, and you can safely rely on their recommendations. 4Open 09:00-24:00. €€. PTBASG Panta rei C-1, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 303 66 98, www.pantarei.co.yu. A recently renovated restaurant with a contemporary interior. The large windows provide a stunning view of the Danube and Zemun. You’re in for an unpleasant surprise if you wish to sit at one of the tables by the window, because the waiter will most certainly explain to you that it is reserved for Godot and his crowd (the ones that never show up). Nevertheless, the tables are arranged in such a way that you will have a beautiful view regardless of where you sit. There are interesting offers on the menu. Some dishes are truly excellent, and others are average. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPGS6 Pietro dell Oro D-3, Trnska 2, tel. 344 77 00, www. pietrodelloro.com. This restaurant is staffed with probably the best waiters in town. A truly enjoyable setting, regardless of whether you’re sitting in the upper level or in the attractive vapour-cooled garden. The food is superbly prepared by an Italian chef, but the menu could use a little rejuvenation every once in a while. Be sure to try the panacotta. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTUBAESG

Restaurants

pizzas. The menu also includes salads, pasta and various appetisers, as well as daily specials at reduced prices. The waiters are quick but somewhat lacking in spontaneity. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PTBA

Seafood

Bevanda D-3, Požarevačka 51, tel. 244 74 46. Fresh, non-frozen salt water fish and sea food prepared in the Dalmatian style. A cosy atmosphere and excellent service. If you are having a romantic dinner with enough money to spend, be sure to try their combined specialty dish, which they will serve on two different plates: salty anchovies in combination with lozova rakija (grape rakija), cold cuttlefish and octopus salad, black and white risotto, mixed shellfish buzara (shellfish in a special sauce). For the main course you should opt for a fresh fish, such as the grouper or St. Pierre, and top it all off with a nice red mullet for dessert. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PBA

Japanese

Ikki Sushi Bar C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 218 41 83, www.ikkibar.com. Here you can try traditional Japanese specialities, green tea and sake. Sushi arrangement is an art form, and the chef of this restaurant is a true master of the art. Do not be discouraged by the small, empty area and bar visible from the street - the restaurant is on the upper level. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PUBASG

Mexican

Burito bar D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. 337 65 46. A snug, dimly-lit restaurant with an interior made entirely out of wood. The waiters will patiently explain the specifics of all the Mexican specialties on offer. As opposed to the original dishes in Mexico, the food here is tolerably spicy and won’t set your lips on fire. The portions are large, and the waiters will let you combine various dishes. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTA

Gušti mora A-3, Radnička 27, tel. 355 12 68. Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders love sea food and have very high standards when it comes to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwater fish, lobster and shellfish prepared in the same style as in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The waiters are kind and obliging. Even though the restaurant is located in a rather unattractive part of the city - just next door to a tire repair shop, the good food it offers makes it a very popular place especially among celebrities. Avoid the garden - it’s much nicer inside. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. APBG Langouste B-2, Kosančićev venac 29, tel. 328 36 80, www.langouste.net. A very expensive restaurant with a Mediterranean cuisine and probably the best location in town – its open terrace has a fantastic view of the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The menu features caviar, truffles, St. Jacques, and oysters, with lobster being the specialty of the house. At the top of the impressive wine list are Cristal and Dom Perignon. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PBAEASLG

Pizzerias

Mag Club A-1, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. 269 83 98. If you’re struck by a craving for seafood while strolling along the bank of the Danube in Zemun, this nice-looking white boat is just the place for you. They have an extensive menu and are particularly famous for their cart which displays an assortment of salads and sea food. The best seats are on one of the two open deck areas. The two large rooms in the boat’s interior are perfect for large groups but not for a romantic dinner for two. The service is below the standard expected for this type of restaurant. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. APBG

Pizza Hut C-2, Makedonska 44, tel. 322 13 12. American-style pizzas for those who prefer that sort of experience. They don’t come with as much topping as Italian

Paša, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. 261 21 19. A floating, river restaurant specialising in freshwater fish caught in the Danube. It has both an enclosed section and an open terrace above the water – which also happens to be a popular resting place for river gulls. The interior is modest, the food served in a straightforward manner, and the recipes simple but perfectly wholesome. This is one of the few restaurants in Belgrade where you will get paper napkins instead of the usual cloth ones. Be sure to try the fish chowder and the grilled perch. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA

Pomodoro C-2, Hilandarska 32, tel. 334 28 97. Here you can treat yourself to probably the best pizzas in town, prepared in a wood-burning stove, of course. An unassuming and airy interior, short wine list containing just a few exquisite wines, and a large selection of non-conventional pizza combinations. The menu also features photographs of each dish. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTUBRASG

July - September 2008

restaurants Stara koliba B-1, Ušće bb, tel. 311 74 44. Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating restaurant made of wood and reeds is situated in the most beautiful spot in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If you don’t have a reservation, the chances of getting a table on the terrace with the stunning view are next to none. Nevertheless, there is also charm in sitting at the bar surrounding the cooking area, as you can watch the cooks prepare meat and fish specialties. This restaurant’s biggest downside is the bad service. Be prepared to wait for a long time for the waiter even to approach you if you’re not a regular customer, and some of the waiters who probably don’t like their jobs can actually be quite rude. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. APBGE Tramontana, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 354 22 37. This Banovo Brdo restaurant has a inviting atmosphere, reminiscent of a family house with a garden. The summer ambiance features candle-lit dinners in the garden under grape-vines, while a crackling fire is sure to warm your spirit during the winter. All the dishes are excellent. You should try the salmon in white sauce or the sea perch prepared kingstyle, and make sure you don’t skip the fantastic tiramisu. The best transport solution would be to take a taxi, as the restaurant is rather difficult to find. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PBAS

Serbian

Čubura C-3, Mačvanska 1, tel. 244 07 56. Located in a small group of shops near the Čuburski park, also known as Peyton Place, this restaurant makes the best grilled meats and unquestionably the best ćevapčići (grilled minced-meat fingers) in town. It is just the place for those who prefer their meat without flavour enhancers or sauces spoiling its taste. The interior is rather modest, and it is advised that the toilet be used only in emergency situations. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTBA Dačo, Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. 278 24 22. A restaurant that truthfully depicts the atmosphere of a real Serbian village, with check tablecloths, mismatched cutlery, and cats and chickens roaming around the tables in the garden. They also have a souvenir shop. You should try the village appetiser, the svadbarski kupus (Wedding Cabbage), and the house wine. Since the restaurant - situated in a remote area of town - is extremely popular, reservations are recommended. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PTBA Jevrem C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. 328 47 46, www.restoran-jevrem.com. Situated in the city centre, in a house built at the beginning of the last century. It is known for its beautiful terrace, isolated from city noise. Here you will find various Serbian specialties, and although they may not be prepared in the most faithful way, you will have the opportunity to try certain Serbian dishes that are nearly impossible to find elsewhere, such as pihtije (jellied pork or duck) or cicvara (a dish made of corn flour, eggs, butter and cheese). The waiters occasionally make a slip-up by bringing the main course before the guests have finished with their appetisers. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBAE Manjež C-3, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. 362 11 11. One of the few restaurants in Belgrade that has kept the character of an authentic city bistro. They have skilfullyprepared Serbian specialties difficult to find elsewhere. A highly enjoyable atmosphere, wide diversity of guests - from lawyers rummaging through their files while sipping a cognac to bubbly housewives meeting over coffee to discuss

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Kafana A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant. The first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was opened by the Turks at the end of the 16th century, in the Dorćol section of the city. The kafana differs from a standard restaurant in the following ways: ordering food is not obligatory - you can come for only a drink, no scornful looks will be thrown your way if you dip your bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your elbows on the table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts are normal occurrences, the guests address the waiters by their first names, the food is good but never exceptional, and tables are often pushed together for purposes of socialising... Traditional kafanas are losing ground to industrial catering facilities and are gradually declining in number. burning global issues. The atmosphere is further enhanced by traditional romantic tunes softly playing in the background. The waiters will gladly put a few tables together for larger groups. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBAS Opušteno (Laid Back) A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. 319 41 71, www.adasafari.co.yu. In the midst of Ada Ciganlija Island is a small lake surrounded by centennial trees and stocked with very fine specimens of carp. Fishermen are allowed only to take a photo with their trophy before they are required to return it into the water. The wooden posts above the lake support the foundation of a restaurant ideal for relaxing over a bowl of fish chowder, BBQ, roasted meat, and cold house wine from the Rajac Mountain. The only sound you will hear is the song of birds. There are benches set up on the shore for those who like to play cards over fried picarel fish and beer. Children can find entertainment in a small enclosure with goats and ducks. The restroom, located in a separate house on the shore and one of the cleanest in the city, bears the name ‘Even More Laid Back’. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €. UBGPAL Proleće C-2, Vuka Karadžića 11, tel. 263 54 36. A restaurant known for its variety of ‘home-cooked’ meals and grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), discoloured cutlery, and the occasional patched tablecloth, Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts a wide variety of customers - young couples in love, old folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, penniless students sharing a portion - all united by their mutual craving for a warm, ‘home-cooked’ meal. No music. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. €. PBA Rubin, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 351 09 87. A sign on the street indicates where to turn for this restaurant, which is well-hidden in the Košutnjak Forest. A view of the city and the Avala Mountain extends from the gorgeous terrace. They have excellent grilled meat and Czech beer. It is most crowded on the weekends during lunchtime, so if you wish to sit on the terrace it is best to make a reservation. It’s a real treat to take a walk after the meal in the surrounding area, where the silence is broken only by the songs of birds. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. APBG Salaš, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 219 03 24. A wonderful duplex restaurant in an old family house in Gardoš. The interior is decorated in bright colours and floral patterns typifying houses in the province of Vojvodina. The upper level has a breathtaking view of the Danube, stretching over the roofs of Gardoš, and for an even more rewarding experience try

restaurants Local Specialties Karadjordje’s steak: breaded rolled veal steak stuffed with kajmak, served with tartar sauce. Named after Karadjordje, the leader of the First Serbian Uprising against the Turks. Due to its elongated cylindrical shape, they also call it the ‘maiden’s dream’. When they serve it to you, we suggest that you stick a few toothpicks into it to cool it, because if you abruptly cut it with a knife, the hot liquid may squirt onto the person sitting across from you. getting a table on the miniature terrace. The food is decent and the portions large. The waiters are friendly but few in number, so if the restaurant is jam-packed, consistent efforts to get their attention might end up a real mood-spoiler. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBAE Srpska kafana C-2, Svetogorska 25, tel. 324 71 97. The legendary Belgrade restaurant where back in the old day, live Gypsy music used to entertain the crowd deep into the night. There is no longer live music, and nowadays the ambiance is more reminiscent of a village setting than of a town setting. The new manager (who, incidentally, is a terrific clown) has in great measure succeeded in reviving the old reputation of this restaurant, especially among younger clientele. The cuisine features national specialties (both home-cooked and grilled) at fairly low prices. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. APG Stara carinarnica, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel. 261 69 30. It is situated in a 1723 building which used to be an AustroHungarian customs house. The interior is dominated by brick domes and photographs of old-town Zemun. The restaurant is known for its variety of grilled meat and home-cooked dishes. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Skala - one of the best orchestras in town - performs here, and such particular nights tend to be very loud and jovial, with musicians roaming from table to table, so you can order a song if you wish. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. APBEG Stara Hercegovina D-2, Carigradska 36, tel. 324 58 56. An authentic Belgrade ale-house, where you can enjoy draught beer, smoked ribs off the grill, and knuckle of pork covered in sour cabbage leaves and served with horseradish. It’s difficult to find a table during lunch hour, and since the poor ventilation will leave you smelling like your dinner even after you have left, this restaurant is not exactly the best choice for a meal before the theatre. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €. PBA Suri C-3, Nebojšina 41, tel. 344 37 25, www.suri.co.yu. Wooden benches, wolf skins on the walls, waiters dressed in traditional folk costumes. This is the place to leisurely enjoy authentic Serbian dishes containing ‘everything a girl can give a boy to put hair on his chest’. Though their fruit juice is possibly the best you have ever tasted, the two real gems of this restaurant are Serbia’s most expensive rakija called Lepa nesreća (Fair Misfortune) and the culinary sensation Miracle Mida Klisurac - a gigantic pancake filled with several types of forest fruits, honey and walnuts (one is enough for four people). 4Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTA Tabor, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 241 24 64, www.restorantabor.com. A famous restaurant with Serbian specialties, and a true favourite with Belgraders. Be sure to try the spicy potatoes, the čačanski uštipci (Čačakstyle minced meat) and quince rakija. Guests also have the

option of preparing their own meat on a volcanic rock. You should probably avoid dishes that don’t fit the ambiance, such as gnocchi or spaghetti. Their musicians are among the best in town and are also surprisingly unobtrusive. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTBAEL Zlatnik, Slavonska 26, tel. 316 62 56. This is both a Serbian cuisine restaurant and a fish restaurant, located in the Zlatnik Hotel in Zemun. Its peaceful setting - far from the racket of the city - makes it ideal for important business lunches. The service is exceptional, the noodles in the soup are homemade, and their turkey with mlinci (type of pasta) is by far the best in town. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBAL

Thai

Bangkok, Kej oslobođenja 1b, tel. (064) 112 34 52. A floating river restaurant. For an incredible €5, you get a hot and sour vegetable soup, grilled chicken wings and a pint of draught beer. There are also more expensive entries on the menu - over one hundred different dishes in total. The spicy, exotic food served here is not the best solution for those with sensitive stomachs, but for those who can handle it - there’s plenty to chose from! The few drawbacks are the stained cutlery, chipped plates and paper napkins. Also, the door to the men’s restroom doesn’t close all the way. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PBAS

Fast food Čobanov odmor D-3, Vojvode Šupljikca 34, tel. 245 09 47, www.cobanovodmor.com. Traditional Serbian fast food in folklore-style kiosks. They deliver all over town. 4Open 24 hrs. Also at Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 141, tel. 213 45 77. €. S Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 328 30 69. Superbly prepared Italian take-out: sandwiches, pasta, profiteroles, tiramisu. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00. €. S Loki C-1, Corner of Kralja Petra and Gospodar Jovanova St. An extremely popular fast-food joint for grilled-meat lovers. People often end up eating here after a night in the town. 4Open 24 hrs. €. S McDonald’s A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85a, tel. 310 73 78. Drive-in. 4 Open 08:00 - 24:00. Also at Deligradska 2, tel. 265 64 91. Terazije 27, tel. 323 52 97. €. PTUBASL Pekara Toma C-2, Kolarčeva 6-8, tel. 263 63 43, w w w.to m a c e n t a r.c o.y u . Th i s b a ke r y o f fe r s sandwiches, salads, pizzas, cakes, burek (pie made with phyllo dough) and all kinds of traditional Serbian pastry. 4Open 24 hrs. €. PAS Wok to Walk C-2, Nušićeva 3a, tel. 322 97 77. Asian fast food. You chose your own ingredients, which they prepare in front of you in a giant wok. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. SG

July - September 2008

CaFÉs Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly Amsterdam A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 319 49 71, www.amsterdam.net.yu. The most exquisite terrace on the river, known to attract the city’s most beautiful women. The restaurant offers light meals and cakes. You should avoid eating here unless you are dreadfully hungry, as the prices are known to exceed the quality of the food. The best tables can usually be found vacant, because they are reserved for friends that hardly ever stop by. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00. PBAEL Amphora A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina bb, tel. 269 97 89. A spacious and rather stylish floating café/restaurant with a strained atmosphere due to the number of people who go there just to be seen. The section overlooking the river is actually the dining area, and the food is pretty decent. You can also sit around the fireplace in their comfortable sofas, with a cup of coffee or cocktail in hand, and watch the boats go by. It’s definitely one of the nicest floating restaurants in Belgrade. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. PBAL AUR - Klub svetskih putnika C-2, Bulevar Despota Stefana 7, tel. 324 23 03, www.aur.org.yu. An unusual venue, well hidden in the cellar of a residential building. The diversely decorated rooms and a cat lounging around on the heater make the atmosphere here very cosy. You can also skim through their collection of books on exotic, far-away lands, or have a sandwich during the day. This venue also hosts private parties in the evenings. 4Open 13:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PEAR6 Bistro Pastis, Strahinjića Bana 52b C-1, tel. 328 81 88. One of the most popular cafes in ‘Silicone Valley’. Many celebrities who live near-by like to come here, and the small barrels used for tables in the outdoor section are a favourite place to pose for young managers who are all dressed in similar suits. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. PBG Bizzare, Gospodar Jevremova 38 C-1. A small café for the neighbourhood crowd, ideal for chatting over a cup of coffee during the daytime, or for cocktails to the beat of

house music in the evenings. It takes a 4-5 minute stroll to get there from the city centre. Together with the outdoor space of the adjoining café, this is a safe haven for those who don’t fancy the ostentatious atmosphere of the near-by street, Strahinjića Bana. If circumstances allow, the funloving waiters will dance on their own in the empty café, and if there’s a crowd, the guests will dance on the street with their drinks in hand. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. B Brodić B-3, Belgrade Fair, at the Sava River bank. A few connected pontoons encircling a small anchored boat. It is not for those who tend to be careful what they sit on. The terrace of the raft looking over the river has the appearance of a grass-covered piece of earth that has been separated from land together with some jovial people and has attached itself to the small boat. They serve good rakija brandy, draught beer and pizzas, and the music typically played here is reggae, jazz and old-school rock. Order on the boat is kept under control by Milica, an unattractive but good-natured dog that freely roams the raft and occasionally barks at the stars. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. B Costa Coffee C-3, Njegoševa 45. The famous European coffee-house chain is present in several locations in Belgrade. The atmosphere is quite pleasing, and their menu includes various types of coffee made from their own original blends, as well as sandwiches, cakes and pastries. No waiters - self-serve at the bar. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at Delta City, Jurija Gagarina 16. PB Cruise, Sava Quay (block 70), tel. 215 75 10, www.cruise.co.yu. A floating cocktail bar on the Sava River. During the day, it’s a casual spot beside the river for drinks and decent food prepared on the premises, and with soft music in the background. In the evenings, it turns into a loud place bursting with excitement, with cocktails prepared by one of the best barmen in town. It’s pretty much impossible to order a cocktail here which the waiters haven’t heard of. The staff is friendly and always smiling. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. PTBRASG Crveni rak, Beogradska 14 (Zemun), tel. 373 18 53. This ale-house in Zemun has a pleasing ambiance and relaxed atmosphere. It has one dark and four pale types of draught beer on offer, as well as a fine selection of homemade rakija. The background music is mainly blues and rock’n’roll. If you’re lucky, the second round of drinks you order will arrive with complimentary snacks (corn bread, pie, etc.). 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. P Ex M C-2, Palmotićeva 27, tel. 323 33 82. The deep shade of the linden tree in a tiny park hides one of the most

Don’t know where to go? Wanna meet people?

Belgrade Experience first hand why across the Balkans Pub Belgrade is known as Crawl “the city that never sleeps” Only 900Din for ladies, 1100Din for gents Reservations & Info : +381 64 395 0402 . www.pubcrawlbelgrade.com You can also book a private-tour! From monday till sunday!

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Our guides will show you everything: Trashy bars, noble lounges and the best clubs We hit up at least 5 unique hot spots And our services include: free beer at the meeting point, free shots all night long, guaranteed entrance for all bars/clubs and specials in the bars!!!

Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Meeting Point: Corner of Knez Mihailova & Pariska Close to the Kalemegdan main entrance Starting at: 8PM

cafÉs popular cafes in the city centre. It is a favourite spot for those who work in advertising agencies, cultural facilities, and all others who have the freedom to extend their lunch break and can afford to wait for the waiter to bring their order. If you have enough time on your hands, you can admire the ability of Belgraders to prolong the act of drinking an espresso into a half-hour event. The shade in the park makes this the ideal place for parking strollers while young mothers share experiences. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PB Galerija, Čunarska 1 , tel. 261 20 96. The most romantic café in town, situated in Gardoš - Zemun’s popular promenade - near the Danube quay. If a particular woman has not yet fallen under your charms, this place is sure to sweep her off her feet. The music played in the background is jazz. The walls are decked with purchasable paintings by various up-and-coming artists. They also serve food, which you can enjoy on the beautiful open terrace or, on rainy days, in the wine cellar. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00. B A Grand pleasure C-2, Vasina 3, tel. 262 74 24. A new chain of cafés with a wide variety of take-away coffees. Those wishing to have their coffee on the premises of the café can enjoy its delightful ambiance, providing there’s a table available. It’s a good place to start the day, as they also offer sandwiches, salads, fruit smoothies and freshlysqueezed orange juice. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PBRASG Greenet C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. 323 84 74, www.greenet. co.yu. A snug little café with the most extensive choice of coffee in town. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Takeaway coffee is also served in heat-conserving cups, and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBAS Kandahar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. 334 39 70. A café named after the city in Afghanistan. The interior is decorated in the Oriental style and filled with colourful pillows, and the exterior features an unusual open terrace with low tables and canopies. With a large selection of tea blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few spots in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni Raki. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. PBA Kuća čaja D-3, Mileševska 47, tel. 344 54 12, www. kucacaja.co.yu. A tea house where you can savour or purchase various teas from China, Japan, or Sri Lanka, as well as English and Russian blends. Tea paraphernalia is also sold. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. PTA Marshall Pub D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2, tel. 386 24 48, www.marshallpub.co.yu. The perfect place for those who like English pubs. The primarily wooden interior features a display of around fifty beer mugs from all over the globe. Apart from the good choice of draught and bottled beer, they offer snacks - pizzas, salads, sandwiches... During the day most of the visitors are students from near-by university departments. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. A PBEG Mama’s Biscuit House C-1, Strahinjića Bana 72a, tel. 328 38 05, www.mammashouse.co.yu. A wide variety of cakes and other sweet treats. Their terrace is a favourite spot for gazing at girls strolling down the street commonly known as Silicone Valley (named after the substance used in plastic surgery to improve cleavage). 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. PTBA

July - September 2008

cafÉs Plato C-2, Akademski plato 1, tel. 263 50 10. Here you can find a bookstore, restaurant, and club with live music (mostly jazz and Latino) - all in one. The outdoor terrace is well-known for its lounge chairs and laid-back atmosphere, but it also includes a section with standard chairs. The waiters have a tendency to be rather slow with the orders and to appear disinterested, since most of the clients are students who visit the café mainly for social reasons and wouldn’t dare spend money on expensive drinks. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBA Povetarac B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (063)57 71 32. An old cargo ship permanently docked on the bank of the Sava River. The deck is the perfect place to loaf around while enjoying a beer and listening to terrific music. Upbeat people, a cosy atmosphere. The evenings are reserved for DJ performances and occasionally live music. On rainy days, the fun continues in the ship’s hull. Since it is situated in a rather isolated section of the river bank – far from any public transport, visitors will have to rely on a taxi ride. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00 (20:00 - 04:00 at winter). PBGE Rakia bar C-2, Dobračina 5, tel. 328 61 19, www. rakiabar.com. A tiny bar that serves 130 different types of Serbian rakija (brandy), all different in aroma, strength and therapeutic qualities. Different snacks are served with the rakija. Though this is ideally the place to stop by on your way to dinner for a shot or two to boost your appetite, the cheerful laughter of the guests will tell you that stopping after the first round is no easy task, and that you are likely to forget all about your original plans for the evening. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PBA Scottish pub Veprov dah (The Boar’s Breath) C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel. 203 03 60. This is a favourite spot for lunch for many due to the wide variety of menu offerings. Those who prefer lighter food varieties will be quite happy with their salads, while those who don’t can try a boar sausage over a glass of good Scottish whiskey. Due to the occasional live music, many people start and end their

Belgrade In Your Pocket

nights on the town here. The waiters wear kilts and are very popular with the ladies, who can’t help but wonder whether they respect the rule that nothing should be worn under a kilt. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. A BGPER Svetlost C-2, Milutina Bojića 2. A small, underground café decorated to resemble a living room. There’s a gigantic plasma TV suspended from one of the walls. Short, experimental films can be seen here every once in a while, and even feature films highlighting a specific theme. Most of the clientele are professionals from film and television companies, as well as advertising agencies. Sometimes, for no particular reason, quiet evenings evolve into wild parties. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. PB Sweet caffe C-2, Zadarska 2, tel. 303 64 61. A great place for a chat with your friends and an excellent spot to take a break after a tour round Kosančićev venac. Coffee enthusiasts will be pleased with the café menu - offering 40 different kinds of caffeine fix. The café is on three levels, the lowest overlookng a busy crossroads, and the highest being the smallest and cosiest. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. A BGR6 The Three Carrots Irish pub C-2, Kneza Miloša 16, tel. 268 37 48. The place to socialise to the sounds of Irish music and beer while watching football games. The atmosphere is always cheerful since a lot of Serbs root for Celtic and consider the Irish their half-brothers (though in real life that level of affection is often not reciprocated outside the pub). Guinness Draught, fast food. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. AGPL ¿Que Passa? C-2, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 330 53 77. A popular café on the ground level of Alexandar Palace Hotel. A place to enjoy a glass of cognac and a Cuban cigar, or if you have a sweet tooth - a piece of homemade cake or an icecream sundae. They also serve South American specialities. You’ll hardly see anyone below the age of thirty visiting this café. 4Open 09:30 - 01:30. PBRAE

niGhtliFe

Belgrade is famous for its exciting night life. Wherever you go, you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel at home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of the week, and they do it spontaneously - at any given time and regardless of the amount of work that awaits them the following day. The most exciting and busiest nights out on the town are not dictated by the day of the week but by circumstances and events. Floating river clubs are a special feature of Belgrade nightlife. They vary in size, customer capacity and type of music played. As they are far from residential zones, the party can last till dawn, especially if the guests are in good spirits. Akademija C-2, Rajićeva 10, tel. 262 78 46, www. akademija.net. The legendary Belgrade underground club - considered among the top ten in Europe during the 1980s. It is situated in the dark basement of the Fine Arts College. The space is divided into two different clubs - one large and one small - playing different kinds of music. The DJs perform in a metal cage, there are pin-ball machines in the corners, and the most popular drink is beer. Local alternative bands and foreign rock bands perform here. Admission €2.5-5.5. 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PE Andergraund B-2, Pariska 1a, tel. 262 56 81, www. andergraund.co.yu. The most famous dance club in town, situated in an old underground passage beneath the Belgrade Fortress. It includes a large and a small club, and is worth visiting for the ambiance if for no other reason. The music played here is mainly haus, R&B, and hip-hop. Internationallyrecognised DJs frequently come to perform here. This club is also open as a café during the day. Admission never exceeds €5. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. PUBAE Bitef Art café C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (063)59 42 94, www.bitefartcafe.co.yu. With live performances from some great club bands, this club is the all-time favourite of funk, soul and jazz enthusiasts. Even though the space is somewhat confined, there’s enough room to sit or stand. The karaoke evenings are especially popular, and they include both competitions and performances. Summer events take place in Belgrade Fortress, on Partizan Club tennis courts. Fri, Sat 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PAE Black panthers A-3, Ada Ciganlija. The best place in town for those who like listening to jovial Gypsy musicians. It is situated on a tiny and somewhat lopsided raft, making it impossible to observe the musicians from a distance. They will ‘break their necks’ trying to accommodate your

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly

July - September 2008

niGhtliFe music requests in exchange for a substantial tip, playing anything from Frank Sinatra to Russian gypsy tunes. The food offered here is barbecued meat and chef’s special ‘đinđi-rinđi’. Reservations are required on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00. E Blaywatch A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (063)47 77 71, www.blaywatch.net.yu. A popular, floating night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful people to be seen at this club. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing sneakers. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. BEL Club Sound B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (064)120 19 00, www.belgradesound.com. The first floating club in the city, with urban electronic music. A very attractive setting with a bar in the middle and comfortable booths by the river. Passionate dancers might feel let down because of the carpeting on the dance podium. Frequent guest appearances by foreign DJs. Theme nights (house, r’n’b, techno...). Guests often circulate between this club and Freestyler, the club next door. 4Open 13:00 - 05:00. ABR

play funk, reggae, and other music you can talk over. The lower level looks like a bar - it has a pin-ball machine in the corner, and there are frequent performances by DJs. Many who stop by to ‘warm up’ for their night on the town end up staying here because of the good atmosphere, so there is often a crowd because of the limited space. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00. BPR6 Havana C-2, Nikole Spasića 1, tel. 328 31 08. This was once one of Belgrade’s most beautiful cafés. In the course of the past few years it’s become a little shabby, but it still manages to attract attention with its massive bar area and huge selection of beverages from all parts of the world. The dance evenings are particularly popular: the Salsa evening is on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and the Argentine Tango evening on Thursday. A snug dance podium and dim lighting make it the perfect place for dance enthusiasts. During summer, the dancing takes place out in the open - on the attractive and spacious patio. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00. PBA Idiot C-2, Dalmatinska 13. This miniature club is a frequent meeting place for artists and other wacky individuals. It is often so packed that people have to stand in the street holding their drinks. During the day, its small open terrace looking out to the Botanical Gardens is frequently visited by students having their first ‘morning coffee’ at around 2 pm.4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PB Kuća piva D-3, Mileševska 42, tel. (065)444 32 92. The name itself (House of Beer) pretty much says it all. The interior is made entirely of wood, in the style of English pubs. There are various types of pale and dark beer on offer, as well as draught and bottled beer (including Guinness). With live music performed six nights a week and a karaoke evening on the seventh, this place buzzes with an upbeat atmosphere. Consequently, it is often jam-packed, so if you prefer to stand by the bar, you’d better get there early. 4Open 13:00 - 02:00, Closed Sun. PBE

Cvijećara (Flower Shop) D-2, Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, tel. (063)57 71 29. A very interesting spot. Ideal for those who like to socialize, but a bad choice for city posers. The wood and brick interior is abundantly decorated with cheerful flower arrangements which you can not escape even in the restroom. The guests have a wide variety of beer to chose from, a jukebox, pin-ball machine, table football and darts. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. UBP6 Freestyler B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (063)30 08 39. This floating club, situated between the Stari Savski and Gazela bridges, is among the numerous floating river clubs featuring disco-house-techno music, and it just happens to be the most impressive of them all. It is extremely popular and always jam-packed because of the great atmosphere and beautiful go-go dancers. Those who can feel their knees crumbling after a few drinks should steer clear of the railing as its purpose is purely decorative. 4Open 13:00 - 04:00 (season starts from June). BA Gajba C-3, Kneginje Zorke 71, tel. 344 99 10. A spot for socializing for those who like to share smiles and their good mood with others. The upper level looks like a large living room where you will feel like you’re at a private party. They

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Kuglaš C-2, Đušina 5, tel. 324 03 24. This small club is a temple to rock’n’roll fans, blues fans and bikers. Beer is by far the most popular drink on offer, and the all-time favourite tune of visitors is ‘Sweet Home Alabama’. You can hear live bands perform here a few nights a week, for the admission fee of RSD 100. 4Open 20:00 - 04:00. E Letnja šikara (Summer Thicket) B-1. A boat anchored almost at the junction of the Sava and Danube rivers, between the Tower of Nebojša and the sports centre in Dorćol. The part of Šipražje (Thicket) club that is open during the summer months. They frequently have live performances of rock bands on the deck, which is an experience in itself, especially under the moonlight. The visitors vary, from old rockers with streaks of grey in their hair to young people who are resisting the MTV culture. Beer is the most popular beverage. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. BE

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly

niGhtliFe Mr Stefan Brown C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (065)556 64 56. Located on the ninth storey of a commercial building. Here you will find a lovely view of the city, different types of cocktails, and a large bar in the centre of the club, sturdy enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing guests. The club features various theme nights depending on the day of the week, but it’s definitely not an appropriate spot for those below the age of twenty. The club is often packed, so try to get there before 01:00, or they might not let you in. Club will be closed in July and Auvgust. Summer events take place at Vojislava Ilića 86 tel. (064)363 20 89. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PB Ona a ne neka druga, Grobljanska 9, tel. (063)745 40 00. A small bistro in the Gardoš area of Zemun, where good times are guaranteed. It is dedicated to women - the most appreciated guests here. Men are not even permitted entry unless they’re in the company of a woman. The waiters are all men. Women (only) are allowed to break glasses and give waiters an appreciative pinch. The interior is quite charming, and the fact that the bistro is often jam-packed and stuffy doesn’t stop the guests from getting up on the benches and dancing with joy to the sounds of live music. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue. PUBEAL Plastic C-2, Corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska St., tel. 3245437, www.club-plastic.com. A well-ventilated club with a contemporary setting, pulsating to the sounds of electronic music often played by foreign DJ’s. Rock bands also perform here occasionally. This spot is so popular that there’s often a swarm of people in front, waiting to enter. Summer events take place at Plastic Flow floating club, Savski kej bb. 4Open 22:30 - 06:00. PAE

Tramvaj D-3, Ruzveltova 2, tel. 380 82 69. Live band performances each and every night of the week - jazz, blues, funk and Latino music. The beer is cheap, and the people who come here are mainly students looking for a fun night out. A laid-back atmosphere. Non-smokers may find this place too stuffy. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE

Ptica, Šantićeva 8, tel. 323 46 14. The best jazz club in town. Located in an old two-storey house with a lovely garden. An ideal place for an afternoon of relaxation to the sounds of cool jazz. Since the owner is a true music lover, some rare recordings can be heard here. Famous Belgrade jazz musicians often perform in the evenings. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBAE Reka, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 261 16 25, www.reka. co.yu. A fish restaurant in Zemun, on the bank of the Danube, more famous for the good time it offers than for its cuisine. The restaurant is very popular, so it is advisable to make a reservation. There’s live music every night - mostly Serbian and international pop hits sure to leave no one sitting down. The friendly atmosphere will make you believe that all the guests know each other. A €3 music charge is added to the bill. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PBAE

100Din. = €0.78; GBP1; US$0.50 (30 June 2008)

Casinos Grand Casino A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 220 28 00, info@casino-beograd.com, www.casino-beograd.com. The largest area offering games of chance in South-Eastern Europe is located in Hotel Jugoslavija, on the Danube Quay. Besides tables (Black Jack, Roulette, Poker, Three Cards Poker, Punto Banco, Texas Hold’em) and slot machines, the complex provides three excuisite restaurants, Roulette Bar, Piano Bar, a VIP area and luxury jewelry Gift Shop. 4Open 12:00 - 05:00. PU KAEL

July - September 2008

What to see Essentials Belgrade fortress B-1. Located on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava river into the Danube. The Romans were the first to build a fort (castrum) at this site and in the late 1st century AD, it became HQ of the IV Flavian Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed swept away nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th century, on a plateau in front of the fortress, which had been cleared for centuries to allow for unobstructed view of the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its many shady benches, random sculptures, art pavilion, Zoo, amusement park, souvenir vendors. It is the favourite haunt of chess players, squirrels and couples in love.

and you will be offered to taste fruits, cheese or prosciutto for free, and you will learn that fruits and veggies of perfect shape and colour, straight from greenhouses, ‘that have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily disdained and those with a beautifully fresh scent, sold by elderly women in headscarves, are vastly preferred... If you get hungry, there is grilled lobster and a bread roll for 200 dinars. The greenmarket is lined with bakeries, pastry houses, restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this wonderful greenmarket before the end of the year as proposed renovations aim to make it look like a supermarket with a glass facade. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Knez Mihailova Street C-2. The main promenade and shopping centre. A pedestrian zone, it stretches between Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Sets of representative buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street. Kosančićev Venac Street B-2. A stroll down this cobbled street will conjure up the spirit of Old Belgrade. It is located on a hill above the Sava River Port, where a Serbian settlement developed outside the fortress walls in the middle ages. Today, it features art studios and galleries, cafés, the main building of the College of Arts and remains of the National Library destroyed in 1941 bombing by Luftwaffe, when the entire collection of books and priceless medieval manuscripts in Cyrillic Script were destroyed in a fire. The street was named after a Serbian hero from the Kosovo Battle of 1389.

The most of the preserved fortress ramparts and gates are located in the Upper town, as well as the Military Museum, St. Petka and Ružica churches, Roman Well (an intriguing building whose eerie waters claimed many lives) and the symbol of Belgrade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the statue of Pobednik offers stunning views over the rivers and incredible sunsets. The Lower Town at the banks of the Danube was the main city centre in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls and had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula Nebojša (Daredevil Tower) from 1460, Turkish Bath from the 18th century (today housing a planetarium), Gate of Carl VI from 1736. No admission fee. 4Open 24 hrs. Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb. The biggest Belgrade open-air market is a vibrant place which valiantly fights off competition from supermarkets. Besides the obvious fresh fruits, veggies, meat, eggs, fish and seafood, honey, pickles and craftwork, you will find national delicacies such as sir (cottage cheese) and kajmak (clotted cream). Take a walk through colourful stands, chat with the vendors

Republic Square C-2. The main city square lined with the National Theatre building (completed in 1869), National Museum, and monument to Prince Mihailo erected in 1882, popular with Belgraders as a meeting point. Once it was the location of the infamous Stambol Gate, the main gates to the Belgrade Fortress. Today this square hosts concerts, protests and various other events. The National Museum is closed to visitors due to inadequate conditions for display and a reconstruction will take several years, so you will be unable to see a large collection of international painters (particularly impressionists), or its most valued treasure - Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (Miroslav Gospel), the oldest preserved manuscript in Serbian Cyrillic Script (from 1190) with very rich decorations. Skadarlija, Skadarska Street C-2. A vintage street from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled street is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (Two Deer), Tri šešira (Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (Golden Jug), Ima dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques and souvenir shops. In early 20th century, it became the hub of arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters, actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menu. The evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. Great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the mill food and indifferent waiters.

July - September 2008

what to see Sava and Danube Rivers Make use of the beautiful summer days to experience the Belgrade rivers from up close - the Sava (female gender, temperamental) and the Danube (mighty and powerful). You can take a walk or bicycle ride along the shore, stop by for a drink or have lunch at one of the many floating restaurants, or experience the city at all angles by taking a cruise on one of the tour boats.

River cruising: Yachting Club Kej, tel. (064)825 11 03, www. klubkej.com. Day and night cruising with or without lunch/dinner and music. Departure is from Yachting Club Kej floating hostel and restaurant near the end of the Ušće Street. Duration: 2 hours. Catamaran capacity: 70 places. Admission 350 dinars. It is possible to rent the catamaran. Sirona (luxury ship), tel. 313 99 91, 311 11 16, www.sirona-cruises.com. Day and night cruising on Sava and Danube river, Brunch cruise, Full day excursion with lunch to Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci. Departure from Sava Passenger Dock at Karađorđeva Street.

Historic buildings The legacy of wars has left behind deep scars on the city. Belgrade was razed to the ground 40 times and you will not find here a single building older than 250 years, although it is one of the oldest cities in Europe. Kafana ‘?’ B-2, Kralja Petra 6, tel. 236 54 21. This authentic Serbian tavern of an unusual name is located in one of the oldest houses in the city. Erected in 1823, it opened as a tavern in 1826, and was the first to install a billiard table in Belgrade, in 1834. There is still a wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes in a corner. Great for national dishes and draught beer. The tavern has a summer terrace, and you can always hear a lively buzz of conversation, but no music devices, echoing the warm atmosphere of yore. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. P B A Albania building C-2. Located on Terazije - the centre of the city and the Balkan Peninsula. Terazije is a landmark from which all distances in Serbia are measured. Completed in 1939, Albania was the tallest building in Belgrade and the Balkans for a long time. It was named after a tavern named Albania, which occupied the same site. Workers digging its foundations turned up a mammoth’s skeleton. It is one of the symbols of Belgrade, and one of very few buildings which were spared the destructions of WW2. Millennium Tower. Located on Gardoš, approached by a path leading from Grobljanska Street. It was built by Hungarians in 1896, to celebrate a thousand years of their presence in the Pannonian Plain. Four such towers were erected on the border, and this one marks the southernmost corner of the empire. It was built on ruins of a 15th century fortress. It has been closed to the public for some time now, but is well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old part of Zemun, is such a quaint romantic place. Only a twittering of swallows interrupts the calm of narrow cobbled streets and rows of low houses. Gardoš features a broad array of small cafés and fish restaurants, and the plateau in front of the tower offers magnificent views of the city.

Princess Ljubica’s Residence B -2, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 263 82 64. A representative building dating from the first half of the 19th century. Built on orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović for his family: Princess Ljubica and sons Milan and Mihailo, completed in 1831. The permanent exhibition includes original furniture made in various styles of the 19th century: Biedermaier, Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo and Oriental. It hosts themed exhibitions in the basement, in the Vaults Hall. Admission 100 dinars, students, pupils, unemployed and pensioners 50 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Belgrade In Your Pocket

what to see Royal compound. Located on top of Dedinje hill, it covers an area of 135ha. The compound includes Royal Palace (completed in 1929), White Palace (completed in 1936, intended for King’s sons) and service buildings. A tour of the royal compound includes a visit to the representative sections of both palaces (and a display of artwork by Poussin, Breughel, Canaletto, Veronese, Rembrandt), church chapel, royal park and grave of Davorjanka Paunović (secretary and greatest love of Josip Broz Tito, who abolished monarchy and moved into the royal compound when he came to power). Nowadays, this is again a home of the Karađorđević family, HRH Crown Prince Aleksandar II, Princess Katherine, Hereditary Prince Petar and Princes Filip and Aleksandar. Guided tour takes 2 hours. Information and registration at: Tourist Information Centre, Makedonska 5, tel. 334 34 60.

Historic Churches When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only. St. Mark’s Church C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17. Constructed between 1931 and 1940 in Serbo-Byzantine style, next to an old church from 1835, which was swept away in 1941 bombing. The decoration of the church interior was abandoned due to the war, and it has been left unfinished. The church houses some of the most valuable Serbian icons and a sarcophagus with the remains of Serbian Emperor Stefan Dušan. St. Petka’s Chapel B -1, Belgrade Fortress. This contemporary church was built in 1937, above a miraculous spring. In middle ages, this was the site of a church where the holy remains of St. Petka’s (Paraskevi) were placed until 1521. The Chapel still guards the saint’s hand, and the ill come to wash their face at the spring. St Petka is much venerated among Belgraders. St. Sava Temple C-3, Svetosavski trg. St. Sava (11691236) was the first Archbishop of Serbia. The temple is built at the site where his remains were burned by Ottoman Turks in 1594. Preparations to build the Temple were made in 1894, and the construction commenced in 1936, to be interrupted with the German attack on Yugoslavia in 1941. It recommenced in 1985, on securing a consent from the state. The interior of the church is currently being adorned. St. Sava Temple is the largest religious temple of Serbian people. The Temple can receive 10,000 believers at one time. Its base is 91 x 81m, and its central dome, weighing 4,000 tons, is 70m high, with the main gold-plated cross extending for another 12m - the highest peak in Belgrade. Cathedral Church B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića bb. The main church of the city, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was built on the site of a former Cathedral Church, dating from the 16th century, which had been repeatedly demolished and desecrated by the Ottoman Turks. The church treasures the holy remains of Serbian saint Emperor Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house), and it is the burial site of some of the most important figures in Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and Serbian rulers of the Obrenović

dynasty - Miloš, Mihailo and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a gold-plated carved iconostasis. Across from the church is the seat of the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church, a building completed in 1935.

Jewish Belgrade The Book of Esther is recited in Belgrade on the 15th day of Adar (Shushan Purim). Ashkenazi Jews, who migrated from central Europe, settled over the centuries along the Sava River. Following the 1492 expulsion from Spain, the Sephardic Jews settled in the Belgrade area of Dorćol. Just before WW2, the Belgrade Jews, like Serbs, were divided over loyalties to the King and to communism. There were divisions even among Jewish masons, some of whom belonged to the Serbian Lodge and others to Jewish Bene Berith Lodge in Belgrade. During WW2, under German occupation, Belgrade Jews suffered a terrible fate, and the infamy of being the first city in Europe proclaimed as Judenfrei fell on Belgrade. Baruh Brothers Choir, founded in 1879 as Serbo-Jewish Singing Society, is still active. Before WW2, the Jewish community in Belgrade was about 12,000 strong, and today about 2,200 Jews live in Belgrade Jewish Cemetery D-2, Mije Kovačevića 1, tel. 276 82 50. A Sephardic Cemetery dating from 1888, it was later expanded and became Jewish Cemetery. The Ashkenazi Cemetery, located across the road in the New Cemetery, is no longer in function. Jewish Community of Belgrade C-1 (founded in 1866), Kralja Petra 71a, tel. 262 42 89 Jewish Community of Zemun (founded in 1739), Dubrovačka 21, tel. 19 56 26 Jewish Historical Museum C-1, Kralja Petra 71a, tel. 262 26 34. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Synagogue C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 19. Built in 1926 by the Ashkenazi Jews.

Mosque

Baryakli Mosque C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 11, tel. 262 24 28. Built during the Ottoman rule, around 1575. It was named Baryakli after a baryak (flag) which was raised to signal the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all the mosques of Belgrade. The only mosque still in function in Belgrade.

Cemeteries

New Cemetery D-2, Ruzveltova 50, tel. 207 13 00. Founded in 1886, it is the oldest existing cemetery in Belgrade. Its origins are linked to the relocation of the Old Cemetery, which occupied the site of the present Tašmajdan Park. Many important figures in Serbian history - scientists, artists, military leaders, statesmen - lie buried here. Quite a number of gravestones are fine works of art created by well-known sculptors. Part of the cemetery is occupied by French, Italian, Russian, Bulgarian and Austro-Hungarian military cemeteries from the WW1 and the English Military Cemetery from WW2. 4Open 07:00 - 19:00

July - September 2008

What to see Parks & Gardens Jevremovac Botanic Garden C-2, entrance at the corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska Streets. A perfect spot to take a break from the buzz of the city. Founded in 1874, covering an area of 5ha, it is home to diverse plants from all over the world, a conservatory constructed in 1892 and a Japanese garden. Admission 120 dinars. Children under 7, pregnant women and students - admission free. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00.

as food depots, military arsenals and shelters. Regrettably, tours of these fascinating underground chambers are not available at present. Topčider Park. A great place to spend a sunny afternoon. Prince Miloš Obrenović set about developing the park in 1831, by furnishing it with royal necessities: a residence, a church, barracks, and a tavern. The residence was completed in 1834, and that is where the mighty Prince lived his last years and where he died. When the residence was finished, the area was planted with plane-trees, the biggest of which, protected by state, is today 44m high, with a crown diameter of 50m, casting a shade of 1,400m². You can ride round the park in a carriage and have scrumptious lamb roast on the terrace of Milošev Konak Restaurant. The park hosts a monument to the Swiss professor, publicist and criminologist Archibald Reiss (1876-1930), who arrived in Serbia as a member of a team inquiring into the atrocities committed by the Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian army in Serbia during the WW1, and stayed to live in Belgrade, where he founded the Belgrade Police crime lab.

Museums

Košutnjak. Spread out over a hill 250m in height, this forest park on 330ha used to be the royal hunting grounds until 1903, when it was open to the public. The forest, a mix of deciduous and coniferous trees, is crisscrossed with numerous trim trails and nature walks, and there are picnic tables in the clearings for the overwhelming majority who prefer BBQ. Košutnjak Sports Centre features an indoor and five outdoor swimming pools, tennis, football, volleyball and basketball facilities. There is an array of restaurants beneath shady trees, and a spring at the foot of the hill, whose waters are safe to drink. Take a wide berth around the cars concealed among the bushes by the road, they did not have an accident, and they do not require any help. Park of Pioneers C-2. Opened to public in 1944, it was once a palace garden. The park is laid out between the Old Palace and the New Palace, the Old Palace being the residence of Obrenović royal line, the present City Hall, completed in 1884. It was demolished during both world wars and postwar renovations changed its design considerably. The New Palace, a residence of Karađorđević dynasty, was completed in 1921 and today it houses the official seat of the President of Serbia. The park features an observation post of the HQ of the Serbian Army from the time of WW1, relocated from the Salonica Front. Tašmajdan Park C-2. A favourite place with parents and nannies to take kids out for a walk. The park is laid out between St. Mark Church, Russian Church, Central Post Office (built in 1934), Children’s Cultural Centre, Duško Radović children’s theatre, children’s amusement park, a sports centre featuring indoor and outdoor swimming pools, the main building of the state-run TV company (hit in 1999 bombing). In 1830, the Ottoman Sultan’s charter on the internal independence of Serbia was read out at Tašmajdan. For ages (since Roman times) it served as a quarry deep bellow the ground and doubled as a cemetery above (Tašmajdan means quarry in Turkish). The cemetery was relocated to the present New Cemetery in late 19th century. The cave and caverns below the park (an area of about 3000m², up to 10m in height) had once been used

Belgrade In Your Pocket

The 25th of May Museum, Botićeva 6, tel. tel. 367 14 85. The museum is home to the House of Flowers, the mausoleum of Josip Broz Tito (1892-1980). The items on show include Tito’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V dating from 1960, precious gifts he received from people from all over the world, his 106 international and local decorations, an astonishing collection of 20,000 different relay batons presented ceremonially to Tito by pioneers and youth of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia on his birthday, celebrated on the 25th of May, following weeks of relay run around the whole country... Although this museum attracts more visitors than any other in Belgrade, due to a fascination with Tito, its collections are inadequately displayed and sometimes inaccessible to visitors. No guided tours. 4 Open 10:00 - 15:00. Ethnographic Museum C-1, Studentski trg 13, tel. 328 18 88. The permanent display features a rich collection of folk costumes, kilims, craftwork, tools, furniture, old photos depicting folk rites, jewellery... Themed exhibitions are mounted from time to time. There is a souvenir and handiwork shop. The levels one and three are wheelchair friendly. Admission 120 dinars, students and children 60 dinars. Sun: admission free. 4 Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Mon.

Military Museum B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel. 334 34 41. Founded in 1878. The greatest part of the old collection was carried off by Germans in WW2. The remaining items cover a span from ancient to modern times (weapons,

What to see armours, wartime flags, paintings, photographs, equipment, uniforms, decorations...). There is a permanent display within the museum building, while on the outside, artillery weapons (18th-20th century) and armoured vehicles line the ramparts and trenches of the fortress. The most recent acquisitions include a Humvee captured from the US Army in 1999. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Museum of Aviation, Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. 267 09 92. Founded in 1957, it owns various types of aircraft, engines, equipment, aircraft models and photographs. The exhibits are displayed within an architecturally striking building of the museum, and in the surrounding patio. The museum is valued world-wide for its collection of WW2 fighter aircraft: Messerchmitt Me-109, Hurricane Mk IV, Spitfire Mk Vc, Yak-3, Illushin IL-2, Thunderbolt P-47, and the only surviving Fiat G-50 in the world. It houses the remains of the only downed F-117 Nighthawk stealth fighter in the world, a wreckage of US F-16, as well as cruising missiles and unmanned aircraft shot down in 1999. Admission 180 dinars, students and children 150 dinars, foreigners 400 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 09:00 - 15:30. Museum of Automobiles C-2, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 303 46 25. There are around 40 old-timers on permanent display, a part of a collection owned by Bratislav Petković. The museum is appropriately housed in the first public garage in the city, built in 1929. The oldest automobile is a Marot-Gardon from 1897. In addition to the old-timers (all in working order), the museum features a large collection of old racing motorcycles, photographs, equipment, and a souvenir shop. You are not allowed to take pictures. Admission 100

dinars, students 80 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon. Nikola Tesla Museum C-3, Krunska 51, tel: 243 38 86. Nikola Tesla (1856–1943), a Serbian inventor, scientist and electrical engineer, who made revolutionary contributions to the discipline of electricity and magnetism. He is the inventor of the AC current, the three-phase system of power transmission, induction motor, high-frequency power generators and transformers, pioneer of MRI, robotics, wireless communications and remote control technologies. In 1943, the Supreme Court of the United States credited him as being the inventor of the radio. The unit for measuring magnetic field was named tesla in his honour. The museum houses his personal legacy, scientific papers and the urn with his ashes. Demonstrations of his experiments are available for pre-registered group visits. Admission 100 dinars, foreigners 200 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Mon. Yugoslav Film Archive C-2, Kosovska 11 (cinema), tel. 324 82 50. Founded in 1949, the archive is considered to be one of the five most important in the world. Its collections include over 95,000 copies of national and international films, posters, photographs, scripts and artefacts, such as the Lumiere brother’s camera No. 335 from 1896. Film buffs will enjoy daily shows of art films from the archives.

July - September 2008

Mail & phones Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988

Posting a letter The postal code for Belgrade is 11000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with the logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.

Post Post Office 1 C-2, Takovska 2, tel. 324 34 81. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 3 C-2, Zmaj Jovina 17, tel. 63 34 92. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 6 C-2, Savska 2, tel. 361 35 35. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Post Office 8, Glavna 8, tel. 371 40 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 123 A-1, Bulevar umetnosti 4-6 (Mercator Shopping Centre), tel. 311 68 47. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Express Mail DHL, Omladinskih brigada 86, tel. 310 55 00. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. FedEx, Autoput 22, tel. 314 90 75. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Express C-2, Takovska 2, tel. 360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Serbia. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. UPS, Nikola Tesla airport, tel. 228 64 22. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Beo Messenger C-2, Cetinjska 10, tel. 214 65 78. 4Open 08:30 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. City runner, Trebevićka 47, tel. 354 04 99. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

Making a phonecall To call a local number within Belgrade, dial the number directly, and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (99), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Belgrade is 011).

Belgrade In Your Pocket

You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minutes with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying a Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of the card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

Mobile phones There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets, and in case of MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 7, tel. 064 789. www.mts. telekom.yu Telenor C-2, Kosovska 49, tel. 063 98 63. www. telenor.co.yu Vip mobile C-2, Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 060 12 34. www.vipmobile.co.yu

INTERNET CENTRE

Dial-up connection Internet access that does not requre any sign-up or adjusting the settings, charged through your monthly telephone invoice, tel. 042 21 01 10. Username and password: Any.

WiFi Hotspots Apropo C-2 (bookshop-cum-tea room), Cara Lazara 10, tel. tel. 262 58 39. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Click 011 Internet centre BBB, Rajićeva 14, tel. 263 00 24. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Hot Spot Café C-1, Studentski trg 21, tel. 263 92 05. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lava Bar C-3 (restaurant-cum-lounge), Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 361 05 25. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. Municipality of New Belgrade (lobby) A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 167. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Salvadore Dali (café) C-2, Hilandarska 20, tel. 334 37 78. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Veprov dah Scottish Pub C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel. 291 01 35. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Sport Café C-2, Makedonska 4, tel. 324 31 77. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Student Park C-2. 4Open 24hrs.

GettinG around Public transport Belgrade does not have an underground railway system, and it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (although it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, at 42m below ground level). City transport comprises buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buses are operated by a public utility company controlled by the city council and a number of private companies, which accounts for the differences in shape, colour and age of the buses out on the streets. There are only single-ride tickets, available at most kiosks at a flat rate of 29 dinars (regardless of the form of transport). You can also buy a fare on board, from the driver, for 40 dinars. You have to validate your ticket once you get on board, by punching it with a ticket validator, installed by every door. A ride without a valid ticket is fined 1,700 dinars. Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:30 to 23:30. During night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals from 00:10 to 02:10. Night buses depart from special stops at the Republic Square towards other parts of the city. The night fare is 69 dinars, available on board. You are advised to avoid trams if you are in a hurry, because one broken tram blocks an entire line (or two), and this invariably happens right in the middle of two stops, in pouring rain. Belgrade public transport is generally efficient. In Old Town, a bus may prove to be faster than a car, because most streets have bus only lanes.

Taxis Quite a few taxi operators in Belgrade are reckless drivers who hate to take passengers on short rides (e.g. from Slavija to Terazije). A taxi must display the name of its taxi company and its ID number. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the airport and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Taxi fare in Belgrade is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 119 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 46 dinars at the low tariff (Mon to Sat 06:00 - 22:00) or 52 dinars at the high tariff (Mon to Sat 22:00 - 06:00, Sunday and public holidays). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. There is usually no extra charge for the luggage, but if the taxi driver feels entitled to make that charge, he would have to state so at the outset, or you are not obliged to pay it. A tip is not required, but is appreciated, so you may round off the fare. Pets are transported with the driver’s consent. Many Belgraders like to sit next to the driver and have a nice chat. You can ask the taxi driver about hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers, but you can request a non-smoking vehicle, or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette.

Trusted taxi companies Beotaxi tel. 970 Beogradski taxi tel. 9801 Lux taxi tel. 303 31 23 NBA taxi tel. 318 57 77 Pink taxi tel. 9803

Trains Central Railway Station C-2, Savski trg 2, tel. 360-2899 (06:00-22:00). Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world), or Romantika Train (steam locomotive and authentic 1st, 2nd and 3rd class carriages from the early 20th century that take you for journeys outside Belgrade). If you wish to ride in style and splendour, you can hire the Blue Train - personal train of Yugoslav president Josip Broz Tito, where he entertained many of the world’s leaders and Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II. Information: tel. 361 69 28, 08:00 - 16:00. Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Central Railway Station and at: Putnik C-1, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. 323 19 05. Rekreaturs C-1, Dragoslava Jovanovića 3, tel. 323 05 58 Wasteels C-1, Main Railway Station, tel. 265 88 68

Buses Central Bus Station C-2, Železnička 4, tel. 262 71 46 (local routes), 263 62 99 (international routes). Bus services account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns (such as Novi Sad, Niš) running at frequent intervals throughout the day. The bus station is a ramshackle affair, quite unlikely to inspire the urge to linger awhile. Ticket windows are open 24 hrs a day, and so are public toilet facilities and a restaurant, whose clientele during the night time is likely to include pickpockets, sharpers, prostitutes, drowsy farmers and students waiting for the earliest morning buses, because they have nowhere to stay. The food on offer is overpriced and unsavoury. Arrivals are across the nearby park. Lasta Bus Station B-2, Železnička 2, tel. 334 85 55. Lasta is the largest bus operator in Serbia, a partner of the Eurolines system, and runs a large number of local and international lines. Its station is smaller and offers fewer facilities than the Central Bus Station.

Car rental Avis B-2, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. 313 96 16, www. avis-serbia.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 70 62, open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Budget A-2, Proleterske Solidarnosti 38, tel. 311 30 50, www.budget.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 63 61, open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Europcar A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 59, tel. 301 50 04, www.europcar.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel.

July - September 2008

GettinG around 228 90 28, open 08:00 - 20:00. Hertz A-1, Palmira Toljatija 9, tel. 269 52 25, www. hertz.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 60 17, open 08:00 - 20:00. UniRent A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 45g, tel. 313 30 09, www.unirent.co.yu. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 41 40, open 08:00 - 20:00. Yu team A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 71, tel. 269 23 39, www.yutim.co.yu. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 61 61, open 08:00 - 20:00.

Limo rental Limo Service, Cara Dušana 173 (Zemun), tel. (063) 123 55 55. Lincoln TownCar (White, Black), Mercedes S 320 CDI.

Car parks Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour parking limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You can pay for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the relevant zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English overleaf. Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS message with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone 1, 9112 for Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a confirmation message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use the parking coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for parking in a parking garage, no parking limit applies. You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle of the street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public transport, without suffering any consequences. This occurs with annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27. marta, Svetogorska, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, Vojovode Stepe streets... We do not advise you to follow their example because it is an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.

Airport Nikola Tesla airport, tel. 209 44 44, www.airportbelgrade.co.yu. Located 18km to the west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin, likely to claim the title of the foggiest site in Belgrade. Though the sun may be shining brightly above the rest of Belgrade, your flight could still be late due to the fog that often does not venture farther than the airport perimeter. The airport building has been renovated recently, but there are still some nooks and corners where renovation works commenced only to be left unfinished. Serbia’s national airline is JAT Airways, which operates a fairly old fleet, but is nevertheless one of the safest air carriers in the world. At this time of the year, Germanwings

 The Belgrade telephone code is +381 11 Belgrade In Your Pocket

and Norwegian Air are the only low-cost airlines which fly to Belgrade.

Airlines

Aeroflot B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. 328 60 64, begtosu@aeroflot.ru, www.aeroflot.ru. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Aerosvit B -5, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 328 34 30, aerosvit@eunet.yu, www.aerosvit.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Air France B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. 263 82 22. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia B-5, Terazije 43, tel. 324 50 00, www.alitalia. com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian B -5, Terazije 3, tel 324 80 77, of fice. belgrade@austrian.com, www.austrian.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. 328 13 03, www.britishairways.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines B-5, Kralja Milana 6, tel. 361 45 92, beg. booking@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways B-5, Kralja Milana 18, tel. 264 67 55, jatbegto@jat.com, www.jat.com. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Lufthansa B-5, Terazije 3, tel. 303 49 44, www. lufthansa.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Montenegro Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 23, tel. 262 1 1 22 , of f ice.belgrade@mg x.cg.yu, w w w. montenegroairlines.com. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Olympic Airlines B-5, Vase Čarapića 14, tel. 303 67 50, olybeg@eunet.yu, www.olympicairlines.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Swiss Air Lines B-5, Terazije 3, tel. 303 01 40, www. swiss.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Tunisair B-5, Skadarska 19, tel. 323 31 74, tunisair@ sezampro.yu, www.tunisair.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. 303 61 95, salesagent2@turkishairlines.co.yu, www.thy.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Train Schedule From Belgrade Dep. Arr. 10:10 19:16 22:10 07:10 15:55 05:39 08:40 08:25 22:15 07:50 06:45 10:00+2 06:20 22:30 13:20 06:15 14:05 22:54 21:10 07:05 22:20 13:07 15:40 07:16 22:00 08:57 06:20 13:05 15:40 22:35 22:15 05:25 10:45 8:20 15:40 22:35 10:45 08:20

City BAR BAR BUCHAREST ISTANBUL LJUBLJANA MOSCOW MUNICH MUNICH SKOPJE SOFIA THESSALONIKI VENICE VIENNA ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH ZAGREB ZURICH

To Belgrade Dep. Arr. 21:00 06:09 10:00 19:00 21:45 08:54 22:00 20:12 21:05 06:23 21:30 22:43+2 23:45 15:33 07:26 22:40 06:12 15:13 12:40 20:12 16:15 05:06 21:27 12:13 19:40 06:40 06:05 12:15 11:10 17:25 16:45 22:50 21:40 17:20 11:10 17:25 21:40 17:20

Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

Getting around

July - September 2008

GettinG around Flight Schedule From Belgrade Days Dep. 12----7 08:05 --3---09:45 ---4--14:35 ----5-13:00 1-34--07:05 ----5--17:30 12-4-609:00 -2345-7 20:20 1--45-7 21:00 1-3---08:30 ----5-15:30 ------7 16:25 --3-5-08:00 1-----12:45 1-3----13:25 ------715:50 ----5--21:00 -2----13:15 ---4--15:00 -----613:10 ------7 17:30 1-3-5-21:25 1234567 12:35 1-3-5-7 14:30 1234567 06:50 1234567 12:00 1234567 16:30 -2----13:15 ----5-08:10 -2----16:05 ---4--15:55 -----616:25 ------7 09:45 1-3-5-13:35 ---4--18:05 -2----18:20 12-4-67 10:40 1234567 12:55 1234--08:20 ----5--15:30 ------718:20 --3---20:30 -----619:00 1234567 12:55 1234567 13:40 ---4--20:05 1234567 12:45 1234567 16:50 12-4-6-09:25 --3---715:10 1234567 12:45 1234567 15:40 -----609:40 --3---10:30 1234567 08:05 1234567 12:40 1234567 07:25 1234567 17:50 1234567 21:15 1234--20:00 ----5-21:10 -----67 20:30 -2----7 08:20 ---4-607:40 ----5-19:00 1234567 13:55 1234-67 07:05 12345-7 16:05 1234567 20:55 1234567 21:30 --3---13:45 ----5-08:10 -----613:10 ------7 09:30 -2---614:50 ------7 11:35 -2---614:50

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Arr. 10:35 12:15 17:05 15:30 09:40 20:05 12:15 23:35 21:50 10:20 17:20 18:15 10:10 14:55 15:40 18:05 23:15 15:30 17:15 17:50 19:45 06:25 14:45 16:40 08:55 14:00 18:35 17:00 10:40 18:35 18:25 18:55 12:15 16:10 21:05 21:50 12:40 14:55 09:40 16:50 20:40 00:50 21:05 14:55 15:30 22:15 14:15 18:25 11:35 17:20 17:40 20:30 12:55 13:20 10:45 15:10 08:25 18:40 22:05 20:45 21:55 21:15 10:25 09:45 21:05 15:25 08:40 17:50 21:45 21:25 16:25 10:50 15:50 12:10 16:40 14:10 16:40

Destination AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (OA) ATHENS (OA) BANJA LUKA (JU) BERLIN (LH) BERLIN (LH) BERLIN (LH) BRUXELLES (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) COLOGNE (4U) COLOGNE (4U) COLOGNE (4U) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) DUBAI (JU) DUSSELDORF (LH) DUSSELDORF (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) GOTEBORG (JU) GOTEBORG (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (TK) KIEV (VV)LARNAKA LONDON (JU) LONDON (BA) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) MALTA (JU) MALTA (JU) MILAN (JU) MILAN (AZ) MONASTIR (JU) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (JU) MUNICH (JU) MOSCOW (JU) MOSCOW (JU) OSLO (DY) OSLO (DY) PARIS (JU) PARIS (AF) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (JU) PRAGUE (JU) PRAGUE (JU) PRAGUE (OK) ROME (AZ) ROME (AZ) SARAJEVO (JU) SKOPJE (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STUTTGART (JU) STUTTGART (LH) STUTTGART (LH)

To Belgrade Days 12----7 --3------4------5-1-34------5-12-4-6--2345-7 12--56-1-3-------5-------7 --3-5-1-----1-3---------7 ----5--2--------4--------6-------7-2-4-6-1234567 1-3-5-7 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2--------5--2-------4-------6------7 --3-5-7 ---4---2----12-4567 1234567 1234------5-------7 ---4-------61234567 1234567 ---4--1234567 1234567 12-4-6---3---71234567 1234567 -----6--3---1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234-------5-------7 -2----7 ---4-6----5-1234567 1234-67 1234567 1234567 1234567 --3-------5------6------7 -2---6------7 -2---6-

Dep. 11:25 13:05 17:55 16:20 10:30 20:55 07:00 18:20 06:00 11:10 18:00 19:15 18:00 18:00 10:55 13:20 18:30 16:15 18:05 18:40 20:35 07:30 10:00 17:30 13:25 14:50 21:55 17:45 11:30 19:25 19:25 19:45 13:05 12:00 14:00 11:10 13:40 08:15 10:30 17:40 20:30 01:40 21:55 10:35 11:20 23:05 10:50 14:45 12:25 18:10 18:30 12:15 06:30 07:00 11:50 09:35 06:30 09:05 19:25 18:30 19:45 19:00 10:50 10:50 16:45 10:50 09:30 13:35 06:30 06:00 17:15 13:20 16:40 13:00 17:30 15:10 17:30

Arr. 13:40 15:20 20:10 18:35 11:10 21:35 08:20 19:40 06:50 12:50 19:40 20:55 20:10 20:10 12:55 15:20 20:30 20:05 20:15 20:50 22:45 12:50 12:05 19:30 15:15 16:40 23:45 20:05 15:55 20:00 20:00 20:20 13:40 12:40 17:15 12:50 17:25 12:00 11:50 19:00 21:50 03:40 02:15 12:20 13:05 01:10 12:10 16:10 14:25 20:10 19:35 13:25 09:10 09:50 14:10 11:50 07:15 09:50 20:25 19:15 20:30 19:45 12:50 12:50 18:45 12:20 11:05 15:15 07:15 06:50 19:50 15:55 19:15 15:35 19:10 17:30 19:10

GettinG around ď&#x20AC;¨ The Belgrade telephone code is +381 11 Flight Schedule From Belgrade Days Dep. --3---7 18:55 -23-5-7 21:20 1234567 07:30 1234567 10:50 1234567 07:00 -2----15:00 ---4--12:40 -----610:50 --3---20:30 1-----20:25 1234567 08:10 1234567 15:20 1234567 08:30 123-5616:50 ---4--7 17:10 123-5608:20 1234567 14:45

Arr. 22:45 22:30 08:35 11:55 07:45 16:40 16:40 16:40 23:05 22:30 09:45 16:40 09:50 18:25 18:25 10:10 16:35

Destination TEL AVIV (JU) TIRANA (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (YM) TRIESTE (JU) TRIESTE (JU) TRIESTE (JU) TRIPOLI (JU) TUNIS (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (LX)

To Belgrade Days --3---7 1-34-6-1234567 1234567 1234567 -2-------4-------6--3---1-----12345-7 1234567 1234567 123-56---4--7 123-561234567

Dep. 23:35 06:10 09:25 12:30 24:00 17:15 17:15 17:15 23:55 23:15 06:45 13:30 10:45 19:20 19:20 11:00 12:20

Arr. 01:45 07:10 10:30 13:35 14:35 18:50 18:50 18:50 03:40 01:15 07:50 14:40 12:15 20:50 20:50 12:40 14:05

SU Aeroflot, VV Aerosvit, AF Air France, AZ Alitalia, OS Austrian, BA British Airways, OK Czech Airlines, 4U Germanwings, JU JAT Airways, LH Lufthansa, YM Montenegro Airlines, DY Norwegian Air Shuttle, OA Olympic Airlines, LX Swiss, TK Turkish Airlines. Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

International Bus Schedule (Lasta - Eurolines) From Belgrade Days Dep. --3--610:30 1234567 11:00 1---5-08:30 1234567 08:00 12345-7 21:00 --3--613:00 --3--613:00 --3--613:00 ---4--11:00 -2----13:00 1-3-5610:45 --3---12:00 ------7 08:00 1234567 16:00 12345620:30 -2---620:00

Arr. 18:55 06:00 22:15 15:45 04:30 15:00 15:00 06:30 13:30 15:00 12:45 05:00 01:00 22:45 09:00 16:30

Destination AMSTERDAM DORTMUND GOTEBORG LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LYON LYON MILAN MONTEPELLIER PARIS PARIS PRAGUE PRAGUE SARAJEVO SPLIT ZURICH

To Belgrade Days --3--61234567 ----5-71234567 12345-7 1---------5-1----------6---4--1-3-5-7 1---5-1---5-1234567 123456-2--5--

Dep. 06:30 06:00 24:00 10:00 22:25 09:00 22:00 16:00 11:00 17:00 14:30 13:00 13:00 06:00 20:30 16:30

Arr. 15:25 12:00 14:35 17:45 06:05 06:30 22:00 09:30 15:25 18:30 15:30 06:30 06:30 13:10 09:00 11:30

Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

July - September 2008

shoppinG Shopping in Belgrade You may be labouring under the impression that Belgrade is a shopper’s paradise, having seen trendy and chic Belgrade girls, but alas, Belgrade is not so strong in the shopping department as Milan or Paris. Belgrade’s main shopping areas are Knez Mihailova, Terazije, Kralja Milana, and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra streets. Most shops are open between 10:00 and 20:00. The main supermarkets in the Old Town are Maxi and Alonso, both located at the corner of Višnjićeva and Gospodar Jevremova streets (C-1). Larger supermarkets can be found in New Belgrade, on Omladinskih Brigada Street, near Airport City (Idea and Rodić) and on Treći Bulevar Street near Holiday Inn (Super Vero), open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. If you are seized by a sudden urge to go shopping for oregano, underwear or a TV set at 2 o’clock in the morning, go crazy at Tempo, a huge supermarket in New Belgrade, near motorway exits for Novi Sad and Zagreb, open 24 hours. There are small shops selling newspapers, cigarettes, chocolate, spirits and juices throughout the city, open 24hrs.

Shopping centres

Delta City, Jurija Gagarina 16. The largest shopping mall in town, Delta City offers a wide array of shops, a supermarket, multiplex cinema, bowling alley, a variety of fast-food outlets and cafés. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Mercator A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4. Very popular shopping centre housing a self service restaurant, children’s playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post office and a bank open on Sundays. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. New Millennium C-2, Small and cosy, featuring a charming range of boutiques and shoe shops, this shopping centre provides hours of entertainment to anyone who thinks of shopping as a favourite pastime. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Piramida, Jurija Gagarina 151. Local shopping centre packed with small boutiques selling clothes, shoes and home accessories. Popular with locals, it offers a casual atmosphere, moderate prices, and proximity to a green market. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9. Spacious foyers and passageways between conference halls feature a range of chic boutiques specialised in clothes and shoes. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

Flowers

Teleflora C-2, Svetogorska 11, tel. 303 00 48. Flower delivery to 185 countries worldwide. 4Open: 10:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Antiques

Ambijenta C-2, Nikole Spasića 2, tel. 262 45 61. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 Nosorog C-2, Cara Uroša 12, tel. 262 79 94. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 Zarić C-1, Vuka Karadžića 9, tel. 218 53 47. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

Bookshops

Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel. 262 58 39. Wonderful

Belgrade In Your Pocket

little bookshop-cum-tea room filled with books in Serbian and English. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. IPS-Akademija C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 263 65 14. A large selection of books, monographs, dictionaries and comic books in Serbian and English. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. Mamut C-2, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, tel. 263 90 60. Books, monographs and magazines in Serbian and English, a great range of CDs, a gift-shop. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

Tobacco & Drinks

Julieta C-2, Đure Jakšića 11, tel. 263 76 90. Cuban cigars, whiskey, dark chocolate, fine wines and champagne. 4Open 09:00 - 23:30, Closed Sun. La Casa del Habano C-3, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. 383 05 33, www.julieta.biz. The place to enjoy Cuban cigars. Classy decor and one of 10 largest walk in humidors in Europe with a comprehensive range of finest cigars and whiskey. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Tvrđava C-2, corner of Cetinjska and Hilandarska. Cigarettes, sweets, juices and spirits. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. Wine Bar C-2, Dositejeva 13, tel. 262 62 67. Excellent selection of wines. Taste wines on offer at retail prices. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. Wonderland C-3, Svetog Save 25, tel. (064)640 22 20. Wines, spirits and finest assortment of sweets. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun closed.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Adoré C-2, New Millennium Shopping Centre, entrance from Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 262 50 56. The finest chocolate treats in the Balkans. An absolute must for chocoholics! Also at Delta City. 100g - 350 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Beoizlog C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. 328 18 59. Beograde souvenirs: books, T-shirts, calendars, old photos, stationary with Belgrade themes. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Singidunum C-2, Terazije 42, tel. 264 31 58. The largest selection of rakija (traditional Serbian brandy), wines, and local delicacies. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Zdravo-Živo C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. (063)878 59 88. A widearray of items belonging to Serbian folk culture (traditional caps and footwear, embroidered blouses, woollen socks), pipes, traditional kitchen accessories, kilims etc. 4Open 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

Markets Teeming with people and colours, green markets offer fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, scrumptious meat and dairy products, pickles, honey, herbs and more. Officially open 06:00 - 19:00, but you will be wise to observe the times below, as farmers selling their own goods are eager to go home earlier. Bajlonijeva Pijaca C-2, Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. 322 34 72. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Blok 44, Jurija Gagarina bb, tel. 215 82 32. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, tel. 245 03 50. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Zeleni venac C-2, Jug Bogdanova bb, tel. 262 93 28. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Business direCtory Business essentials (data for Serbia in 2007) GDP per capita: $5,397 billion Average wage: €425 (Belgrade), €340 (Serbia) Annual inflation rate: 10.1% The standard VAT rate: 18% The lower VAT rate: 8% Corporate Profit Tax Rate: 10% (lowest in Europe) Personal income tax rate on wages: 12% Other personal income tax rate: 20% Annual Income Tax: 10% (for income exceeding the amount of 3 and 5 times the national average wage for Serbian and non-Serbian citizens respectively) and 15% (for income 8 times above the national average wage for non-Serbian citizens) Rates for mandatory social security contributions: 17.9% Unemployment rate: 21% Serbia has free trade agreements with Russia and the countries of South East Europe (CEFTA).

Accounting & Auditing

BDO BC Excell C-2, Knez Mihailova 10, tel. 328 12 99 ConsulTeam C-3, Prote Mateje 52, tel. 308 61 80 Deloitte C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. 361 25 24 Ernst & Young A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, tel. 209 57 00 KPMG C-2, Studentski trg 4, tel. 328 28 92 Pricewater house Coopers, Omladinskih brigada 88a, tel. 330 21 00 SEECAP C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. 328 31 00

Banks

Alpha Bank C-2, Kralja Milana 11, tel. 323 49 31 Banca Intesa B-2, Milentija Popovića 7b, tel. 310 88 88 BNP Paribas C-2, (Representative Office), Obilićev venac 22, tel. 328 48 60 Citibank N.A. A-2, (Representative Office), Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 64a/IV, tel. 220 93 00 Commerzbank AG B -2, (Representative Of fice), Vladimira Popovića 6 (Genex Apartments), tel. 301 85 20 Deutsche Bank C-2, (Representative Office), Terazije 16, tel. 303 19 25 Eurobank EFG C-2, Kolarčeva 3, tel. 333 23 11 Erste Bank C-2, Kralja Petra 45, tel. 262 33 32 Findomestic banka C-2, Kosovska 10, tel. 333 17 17 Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. 222 60 00 Komercijalna banka C-3, Svetog Save 14, tel. 308 01 00 Laiki Bank D-2, Dalmatinska 22, tel. 330 63 00 Meridian Bank-Credit Agricole Group C-2, Kolarčeva

7-10, tel. 330 58 76 National Bank of Greece A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 113, tel. 301 99 00 NLB LHB Banka A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165v, tel. 222 51 00 OTP Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 117, tel. 213 86 89 Piraeus Bank C-2, Kolarčeva 1, tel. 302 40 00 ProCredit Bank D-2, Bulevar despota Stefana 68c, tel. 207 79 06 Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Terazije 27, tel. 320 21 00 Societe Generale A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 50a, tel. 301 15 15 Unicredit Bank C-2, Rajićeva 27-29, tel. 320 45 00 Volksbank A-1, Bul. Mihajla Pupina 165g, tel. 201 32 00

Business connections

Belgrade Stock Exchange A-1, Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 311 72 97, www.belex.co.yu Business Registration Agency C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 333 14 00, www.apr.sr.gov.yu Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade C-2, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 264 13 35, www.kombeg.org.yu Ministry of Economy and Regional Development C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 361 75 83, www. merr.sr.gov.yu Ministry of Trade and Services C-3, Nemanjina 22-26, tel. 361 05 79 Privatization Agency C-2, Terazije 23, tel. 302 08 00, www.priv.yu Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry C-2, Resavska 13-15, tel. 330 09 00, pks.komora.net SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion Agency C-2, Vlajkovićeva 3, tel. 339 85 50

Business facilities

Airport City, Omladinskih brigada 88, tel. 209 05 25, www.airportcitybelgrade.com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 265 55 10, www.sajam.co.rs

Getting working papers Internationals planning to work in Serbia are required to obtain a Temporary Residence Permit. To get one, you need to submit an application to the Police Office in the territory of residence. The documentation required for granting this permit depends on the reasons for requesting the permit (employment, education, sport etc.) and typically includes a valid passport, 2 photographs, evidence of means of support (such as bank statement attesting to availability of funds), employment contract, explanatory letter re: the need for employment written by the company, or decision on registration of the company (if you are owner or representative of a company). It normally takes about a week to process the application. Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners), Savska 35 (B-3), tel. 361 89 56.

July - September 2008

Business directory EXPO X XI - Belgrade International Expocentre A-2, Španskih boraca 74a, tel. 328 40 74, www. expocentres.co.yu Sava Congress Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220 60 00, www.savacentar.com Ušće Business Centre B-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. 220 02 00

Advertising agencies

Communis, Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. 363 67 00 New Moment C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. 322 99 92 Synergy Leo Burnett, Miloja Đaka 22, tel. 367 41 06

Consulting

CES Mecon, Danijelova 12-16, tel. 309 08 00, www. cesmecon.com EKI Investment C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. 361 31 64, www.eki-investment.com

Executive search/Recruitment

HD European Consulting Group C-2, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 324 78 96, www.hd-ecg.com

Foreign representations

American Chamber of Commerce C-2, Vlajkovićeva 30, tel. 334 59 61, www.amcham.yu Council of Europe D-3, Sinđelićeva 9, tel. 308 84 11 European Agency for Reconstruction C-2, Vasina 2-4, tel. 302 34 00 Foreign Investors Council C-2, Svetogorska 37, tel. 303 55 50, www.fic.org.yu

Lawyers

Tomić-Stević-Dulić C-2, Carice Milice 3/II, tel. 328 52 27 Harrison Solicitors C-2, Terazije 34, tel. 361 59 18

Office Furniture

Eurosalon B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 12, tel. 206 75 00 Office1Superstore C-3, Sarajevska 1, tel. 346 06 00

Real estate

Eurodiplomatic D-3, Dravska 18, tel. 308 68 78 Mentor D-3, Mileševska 2, tel. 308 90 80 Slavija rent C-2, Beogradska 33, 334 12 81

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Translators Belgrade Translation Center C-1, Dobračina 50, tel. 328 73 88 Association of Technical and Scientific Translators of Serbia D-3, Kičevska 9, tel. 244 27 29

Lifestyle directory Foreign representations Albania, Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25a, tel. 306 66 42 Algeria, Maglajska 26b, tel. 367 12 11 Angola B-3, Vase Pelagića 32, tel. 369 32 70 Argentina C-2, Knez Mihailova 24, tel. 262 25 41 Australia C-2, Čika Ljubina 13, tel. 330 34 00 Austria B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 303 19 56 Belarus C-3, Deligradska 13, tel. 361 69 38 Belgium C-2, Krunska 18, tel. 323 00 18 Bosnia and Herzegovina C-3, Krunska 9, tel. 324 11 70 Brazil C-2, Krunska 14, tel. 323 97 81 Bulgaria C-3, Birčaninova 26, tel. 361 39 80 Canada C-3, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306 30 00 Czech Republic C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 323 01 33 China, Perside Milenković 9, Tel: 369 31 63 Congo, Diplomatska Kolonija 3, tel. 266 41 31 Croatia C-3, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 361 05 35 Cuba, Ljube Jovanovića 9b, tel. 369 24 41 Cyprus, Diplomatska Kolonija 9, tel. 367 27 25 Denmark, Neznanog Junaka 9a, tel. 367 04 43 Ecuador C-3, Graničarska 8/III, tel. 344 01 35 Egypt, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 265 05 85 Finland C-3, Birčaninova 29, tel. 306 54 00 France B-2, Pariska 11, tel. 302 35 00 Gabon C-2, Takovska 20, tel. 323 38 82 Germany C-3, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 306 43 00 Ghana D-3, Đorđa Vajferta 50, tel. 344 08 56 Greece C-2, Francuska 33, tel. 322 65 23 Great Britain C-3, Resavska 46, tel. 264 50 55 Guinea C-3, Ohridska 4, tel. 344 48 40 Holland C-2, Simina 29, tel. 202 39 00 Hungary C-3, Krunska 72, tel. 244 04 72 India, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel. 266 41 27 Indonesia, Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 367 40 62 Iran, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 367 43 60 Iraq, Pukovnika Purića 4, tel. 46 75 08 Italia C-3, Birčaninova 11, tel. 306 61 00 Israel, Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 367 24 00 Japan B-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. 301 28 00 Lebanon, Diplomatska Kolonija 5, tel. 367 51 53 Libya, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 266 34 45 Macedonia C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 328 49 24 Malaysia B-2, Genex Apartments - Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. 311 35 70 Mexico, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 367 41 70 Morocco B-3, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369 02 88 Myanmar C-3, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 361 91 14 Norway, Užička 43, tel. 367 04 04 Pakistan, Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 266 16 76 Palestine, Maglajska 14, tel. 367 14 07 Peru C-2, Terazije 1/II, tel. 322 11 97 Poland C-2, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 206 53 01 Portugal, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 266 28 95 Republic of South Korea, Užička 32, tel. 367 42 25 Romania C-3, Kneza Miloša 70, tel. 361 83 27 Russia C-3, Deligradska 32, Katićeva 8-10, tel. 361 13 23 Seychelles, Beogradskog Bataljona 42, tel. 354 73 09 Slovakia A-2, Bulevar Umetnosti 18, tel. 301 00 00 Slovenia C-1, Pariska 15, tel. 303 84 77 Spain C-3, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344 02 31 Sweden, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 206 92 00

Switzerland C-3, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306 58 20 Syria, Aleksandra Stamboliskog 13, tel. 266 61 24 Tunisia B-3, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 369 19 61 Turkey C-2, Krunska 1, tel. 333 24 00 Ukraine, Bulevar Oslobođenja 87, tel. 397 89 87 USA C-3, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 361 93 44 Vatican C-3, Svetog Save 24, tel. 308 53 56 Zimbabwe, Tolstojeva 51, tel. 367 29 96

Dry cleaners

Cleaning Servis C-2, Palmotićeva 10, tel. 323 32 06 Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre A -1 , Bulevar Umetnosti 4, tel. 313 02 51

Hairdressers

SFRJ C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. (063)38 15 88 Šobota C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel. 263 62 95

Spa & Beauty Salons

Jai Thai B-3, Vase Pelagića 48, tel. 369 91 93. Thai massage, body treatments, herbal baths, restaurant. Spa Centar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 5, tel. 328 54 08. Hydro massage, massage, steam baths, beauty parlour. St Angelina D-2, Karnegijeva 3, tel. 323 20 58. Skin care with Babor, Matis and Sothys, body treatments, massage. Sun Beauty Center C-1, Strahinića Bana 29, tel. 218 20 90. LPG treatments, electric stimulator, massage, hairdresser, beauty parlour. Zorica C-2, Dobračina 33, tel. 328 59 22. Massage, sauna, solarium, hairdresser, beauty parlour.

Key cuts

Elezović D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, tel. 245 27 25. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (064)641 43 65

Launderettes

Bianca, Dušana Vukasovića 82, tel. (065)888 24 24 Vešeraj (self service) C-2, Kralja Milana 23, tel. 323 90 98 Jupiter D-3, Kalenićeva 6, tel. 244 24 69 Wash Center C-2, Admirala Geprata 3, tel. 306 59 24

Libraries

City of Belgrade Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202 40 00, www.bgb.org.yu National Library of Serbia C-3, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 245 12 42, www.nbs.bg.ac.yu Svetozar Marković University Library D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 337 05 09, www.unilib.bg.ac.yu

July - September 2008

liFestyle direCtory Children The most popular place for children in Belgrade is the Zoo, nestled against the Belgrade fortress (C-1). The Zoo, founded in 1936, is also called ‘Good Hope Garden’. Its stars include the only white buffalo in Europe, a couple of white lions and a white wallaby. Children adore the Baby Zoo, home to the cubs born in the zoo.Admission is 250 din for adults and 200 din for children aged 3-15. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, in winter 08:00 - 17:00

Best ice cream in town Pelivan C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, tel. 323 16 79

Baby sitting Dadilja C-2, Nušićeva 6, tel. 324 14 80

Kindergartens Sunašce C-2, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, tel. 361 70 13. Day care for pre-school children. Marry Poppins C-3, Kursulina 37, tel. 243 30 59. Day care for school-age children.

Children’s playrooms Extreme Kids D-2, Cvijićeva 1, tel. 276 43 35 Puf-Puf A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165a, tel. 311 17 93

International schools Anglo-American School, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 367 57 77 Britannica International School, Užička 21a, tel. 367 15 57 British International School, Svetozara Radojčića 4, tel. 346 70 00 Chartwell International School, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 367 53 40 Ecole Francaise de Belgrade B-3, Kablarska 35, tel. 369 17 62 Deutsche Schule Belgrad B-3, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 369 31 35 International Nursery School, Nake Spasić 4, tel. 266 71 30 International School of Belgrade, Temišvarska 19, tel. 206 99 99

Swimming school for children City Centre for Physical Education C-3, Deligradska 27, tel. 265 87 47

Ballet classes

Orhestra Ballet Studio D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, 240 34 43 Majdan Children’s Cultural Centre B-3, Kozjačka 3-5, tel. 369-26-45. In addition to ballet classes, it offers piano lessons, and there is a skating rink open all year round, tennis, footbal and basketball facilities.

Real Aikido Real Aikido World Centre D-3, Slavujev venac 1, tel. 308 91 99

Horse riding Aleksa Dundić Riding Club, Belgrade Hippodrome, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354 15 84

Belgrade In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com Money transfer Western Union C-2, Kosovska 1, tel. 330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Belgrade, in EUR only.

Opticians

Diopta C-2, Kralja Milana 4, tel. 268 75 39 La Gatta C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 324 49 14

Photo service

Color Foto C-2, Svetogorska 4, tel. 324 59 82

Shoe repair

Saša M C-2, Kosovska 35, tel. 322 72 38

Health Clinics & Hospitals

Ambulance (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Bulevar Franše D’Eperea 5, tel. 94 Emergency Centre (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Pasterova 2, Tel: 361 84 44

Medical institutions on duty

Bežanijska Kosa General Hospital, Bežanijska Kosa bb, tel. 260 13 22 Clinical Centre of Serbia C-3, Pasterova 2, tel. 361 77 77 Dr Dragiša Mišović General Hospital, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 266 71 22 Military Medical Academy, Crnotravska 17, tel. 266 11 22 Zvezdara General Hospital, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 340 63 33

Private practices

Anlave CD, Vase Pelagića 68, tel. 317 59 29, www. anlave.co.yu Bel Medic General Hospital, Koste Jovanovica 87, tel. 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com Bel Medic Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com

Dentists (on duty 24 hours)

Stari Grad, Obilićev Venac 30, tel. 263 52 36 Vračar, Kneginje Zorke 15, tel. 244 14 13

Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)

Bogdan Vujošević A-1, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 260 18 87 Miroslav Trajković, Požeška 87, tel. 305 84 82 Prvi Maj C-2, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 324 13 49 Sveti Sava C-2, Nemanjina 2, tel. 264 31 70 Zemun, Glavna 34, tel. 261 85 82

sports Ada Ciganlija An islet in the Sava River (A3) dubbed as ‘Belgrade’s Sea’, it is the most popular swimming venue and outing area in Belgrade. The tips of the islet are connected to the mainland with embankments, thus creating an artificial lake 4,2km long, with an average width of 200m, and the depth of 4-6m. Both sides of the lake feature fine pebble beaches, dotted with cafés, restaurants and numerous sports venues. There is also a designated picnic area. The swimming season (when beach lifeguard service operates from 10:00 to 19:00) is open from 15 June to end September. The water is warm and clean, but rather muddy, so you cannot see much when you dive. In addition to water sports (swimming, kayaking, rowing, windsurfing, water skiing, fishing) Ada Ciganlija offers a great number of free venues for football, basketball, handball - you need only bring a ball and a crowd, plus there is a trim trail, biking and roller-skating paths, facilities for table tennis, tennis, bowling, artificial rock climbing, a bungee jumping platform (55m high), a ninehole golf course, mini golf, rugby, field hockey, paintball, aqua football facilities, artificial alpine skiing and snowboarding slopes, skateboarding ramps, adventure park, and more. There is also a Robinson Crusoe Island theatre and entertainment feature for children.

Power Gym, Steve Todorovića 32, tel. 354 59 35. Weight room, fitness room. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00 Wellness Centar C-2, Kraljice Natalije 38-40, tel. 268 62 68. Sauna, massage, steam bath, weight room, fitness room, solarium, swimming pool. 4Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00 Zvezda City Oaza A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. 355 46 52. Weight room, fitness room, sauna, hydro massage, solarium, rowing, tennis, kindergarten, restaurant. 4Open 07:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30

Swimming Pools Outdoor swimming pools are open from June to late August, but you can enjoy indoor swimming pools all year round. Swimming pools offer swimming schools for children and adults. In addition to changing rooms and shower facilities, the amenities usually include a sauna, massage parlour, weight room, solarium... Swimming cap not obligatory. 11. April, near university halls of residence in New Belgrade, tel. 267 29 39. Outdoor swimming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 200 dinara. Banjica, Crnotravska 4, tel. 266 87 00. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 200 dinara. Košutnjak, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 355 54 61. Outdoor swimming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 200 dinara. Tašmajdan C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. 324 09 01. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 250 dinara. Zvezdara, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 241 23 53. Outdoor swimming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 200 dinara.

Karting Fitness Clubs Extreme Gym D-1, Cvijićeva 1, tel. 276 43 35. Weight room, fitness room, solarium, massage, beauty parlour, sauna, children’s playroom. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00

Autokomerc Karting Centar, an outdoor circuit alongside the motorway close to the airport, tel. 316 90 29. Its 803m long and 8m wide track with 18 curves boasts a CIK FIA circuit licence category C. Open from March to October, every day except Monday. The circuit is floodlit and night karting is available. The Center offers a kart school and there is a track for children aged 5 to 8.

July - September 2008

sports Paintball

Squash Courts

Paintball Club Arena No 1, tel. (063)779 67 96. Outdoor and indoor facilities. One hour of paintball + equipment is 820 dinars.

Squashland, Pionirski grad in Košutnjak, tel. 305 58 07. Two courts, café. Price per session (45 mins): 600 dinars before 15h, 960 dinars after 15h and on weekends. Racket hire: 170 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Bowling Colosseum, Dobanovačka 56 (Zemun), tel. 316 54 03. 10 lanes, billiards, Sony PlayStation consoles, electronic darts, café, restaurant. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. First bowling, Gradski Park u Zemunu, tel. 377 16 12. 7 lanes, café. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Kolosej, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. 312 99 44. 14 lanes, billiards, laser tag arena, video arcades, café. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

Shooting range Sportski Centar Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170 (12km from the city centre), tel. 207 52 00. First-class shooting ranges for Skeet, Trap and Double Trap events and one sporting compact shooting range specially designed for huntsmen. Shooting lessons, dog boxes, swimming pool, sauna, massage, restaurant.

Cycling There are no bicycle paths in the Old Town, but you can enjoy a ride on a bicycle route along the river, from Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija. There are bicycle services in Dorćol, near Belgrade Fair, and at Ada Ciganlija. Good routes for riding a bike include those along the Sava on the New Belgrade side of the river, along Zemun Quay and at Ada Ciganlija. Riding a bike in Košutnjak and Topčider areas is not recommended because of steep hills and narrow traffic lines used by cars.

Tennis Courts 11. April, near university halls of residence in New Belgrade, tel. 267 29 39. Three outdoor red-clay courts and one indoor court situated in an empty swimming pool (the place of Ana Ivanović’s early training). Gemax, Veljka Lukića Kurjaka bb, tel. 306 18 13. Exclusive tennis club, 4 indoor and 4 outdoor courts, fitness centre, swimming pool, sauna, sports shop, restaurant. For members and their guests only. Sa&Ni D-2, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 276 68 47. Four red-clay courts, school of tennis, café.

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Golf Golf Klub Beograd A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. 305 68 37. A nine-hole golf course, lessons and equipment hire available, a café.

Index ? 44 25th of May Museum 46 888 30 Absinthe 30 Ada Ciganlija 59 Admiral Club 22 After No 1 29 Akademija 39 Albania building 44 Aleksandar Palas 22 Amphora 36 Amsterdam 36 Andergraund 39 ArkaBarka 29 Astoria 26 AUR-Klub svetskih putnika 36 Balkan 22 Balzac 30 Bangkok 35 Baryakli Mosque 45 Belgrade Arena 15 Belgrade Eye 29 Belgrade Fair 18 Belgrade Fortress 43 Bella Napoli 32 Best Western M 23 Best Western Šumadija 23 Bevanda 33 Bitef Art café 39 Bizzare 36 Black panthers 39 Blaywatch 40 Brodić 36 Burito bar 33 California 29 Casa Nova 37 Cathedral Church 35 Central Bus Station 49 Central Railway Station 49 Central Station 29 Chilton 29 City Center 29 City Code 27 Continental 23 Crossroad 29 Cruise 36 Crveni rak 36 Čobanov odmor 35 Čubura 34 Dačo 34 Delta City 54 Dunav 28 Emergency Centre 53 Ethnographic Museum 46 Excelsior 26 Franš 30 Freestyler 40 Galerija 37 Grand Casino 41 Grand pleasure 37 Greenet 37 Havana 40 Holiday Inn 23 Hyatt Regency 22 Idiot 40 Ikki Sushi Bar 33 In 23 Indian Palace 30 Ipanema 32 Jewish Cemetery 45 Jewish Historical Museum 45 Jevrem 34 Jevremovac Botanic Garden 41 Kalemegdanska terasa 31 Kalenić Pijaca 43

Kandahar Kasina Kolarac Košutnjak Kraljičini apartmani Kuća čaja Kuća piva Kuglaš Langouste Le Petit Piaf Licej Club Little Bay Loki Loža Madera Majestic Majik Mama’s Biscuit House Manjež Marshall pub McDonald’s Mercator Millennium Tower Military Museum Moskva Mr. President Mr Stefan Brown Museum of Automobiles Museum of Aviation N Na ćošku New Cemetery Nikola Tesla Airport Nikola Tesla Museum Ona a ne neka druga Opera Orašac Ottimo Palace Park Paša Pekara Toma Peking Pietro dell Oro Plastic Plato Pizza Hut Pomodoro Pošta Povetarac Prag President Proleće Ptica Que Passa Rakia bar Reka Rex Rezime Diamond Rezime Residence Royal Royal compound Salaš Skadarlija Skala Slavija Lux Slodes Splendid Srbija Srpska kafana St. Mark’s Church St. Petka’s Chapel St. Sava Temple Stara Carinarnica Stara Hercegovina

37 25 17 46 27 37 40 40 33 23 29 30 35 31 31 23 30 37 34 37 35 54 44 46 25 25 41 47 47 26 31 45 46 47 41 31 25 32 25 25 33 35 30 32 41 38 33 33 26 38 26 22 34 41 38 38 41 25 27 27 26 45 34 43 26 25 26 26 26 35 45 45 45 35 35

Steakhouse El Toro Suri Svetlost Synagogue Sweet caffe Tabor Tash-Inn Taš The ThreeCarrots Three Black Cats Tis Topčider Park Tramontana Tramvaj Travelling Actor Trim Veprov Dah Villa Kalemegdan Villa Marija Yachting Club Kej Yugoslav Film Archive Zlatnik Zira Zorba Žabar

32 35 38 45 38 35 29 26 38 29 29 46 34 41 27 26 38 28 28 29 47 22 25 30 32

Street register 27. marta D-2 Admirala Geprata C-2 Akademski plato C-2 Balkanska C-2 Beogradska C-2 Birčaninova C-3 Brodarska B-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića A-2 Bulevar Despota Stefana C-2 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra C-2 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina A-1 Bulevar Nikole Tesle A-1 Bulevar Oslobođenja C-3 Bulevar umetnosti A-1 Bulevar vojvode Mišića B-3 Bulevar Zorana Đinđića A-2 Cara Dušana C-1 Cara Lazara C-2 Cara Uroša C-1 Carice Milice C-2 Carigradska D-2 Cetinjska C-2 Cvijićeva D-2 Čarli Čaplina D-2 Čika Ljubina C-2 Dalmatinska D-2 Dečanska C-2 Deligradska C-3 Dobračina C-2 Dositejeva C-2 Dragoslava Jovanovića C-2 Džordža Vašingtona C-2 Đure Daničića C-2 Đušina D-2 Goce Delčeva A-1 Gospodar Jevremova C-1 Gospodar Jovanova C-1 Hilandarska C-2 Jurija Gagarina A-3 Kalenićeva D-3 Karađorđeva C-2 Katanićeva C-3 Kej oslobođenja A-1 Knez Mihailova C-2 Kneza Miloša C-3 Kneza Sime Markovića B-2 Kneginje Zorke C-3 Kolarčeva C-2

Kosančićev venac Kosovska Kralja Milana Kralja Milutina Kraljice Natalije Kraljice Marije Kralja Petra I Krunska Mačvanska Majke Jevrosime Makedonska Maksima Gorkog Maršala Birjuzova Masarikova Mije Kovačevića Milentija Popovića Mileševska Milovana Milovanovića Milutina Bojića Nebojšina Nemanjina Nikole Spasića Nušićeva Obilićev venac Omladinskih brigada Palmira Toljatija Palmotićeva Pariska Požarevačka Prizrenska Proleterske Solidarnosti Rajićeva Resavska Ruzveltova Sarajevska Savska Savski trg Skadarska Skerlićeva Skver Mire Trailović Slavujev venac Strahinjića Bana Studentski trg Svetog Save Svetogorska Svetozara Markovića Svetozara Radića Šantićeva Španskih boraca Tadeuša Košćuška Takovska Terazije Topličin venac Trg Nikole Pašića Trg Republike Trg Slavija Trnska Ušće Uzun Mirkova Vasina (Vase Čarapića) Venizelosova Višnjićeva Vladimira Popovića Vlajkovićeva Vojvode Šupljikca Vuka Karadžića Zeleni venac Zmaj Jovina Železnička

B-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 D-2 A-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 A-1 A-1 C-2 C-1 D-3 C-2 A-2 C-2 C-3 D-2 C-3 B-3 C-3 C-2 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-3 B-2 C-2 A-2 C-1 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-3 D-3 B-2 C-1 C-2 D-2 C-1 B-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 B-2

July - September 2008

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Lipovička Wood

Unknown Hero Monument

Mt. Avala

Jajinci Memorial Park

St. Stevan

Rakovica Monastery

Voždovac

Konjarnik

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Old town

Dorćol

Kovilovo

Topčider Park

Great War Island

NEW BELGRADE

Bežanijska kosa

Belgrade In Your Pocket

Novi Sad, Subotica

Belgrade

Zagreb, Sremska Mitrovica

Serbia

July - September 2008