1
Harley Weir, 2015
Mary Cox
(Fig.1)
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CONTENTS Executive Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Historical Context . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 The Luxury Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Internal and External Processes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Competition and Market Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Benchmarking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Eco Fashion Competitors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Boston Matrix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Marketing Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Collating Customer Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Consumer Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Porter’s Five Forces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Reinventing and Adapting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report is an investigation into the brand Stella McCartney Ltd. Throughout this report, the reserarcher will define the brand’s position within the luxury sector as a whole, while comparing it to other luxury brands such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith. Since Stella McCartney Ltd is the only 100% vegetarian luxury brand, using no animal products in the designs, a great deal of focus is in the company’s ethics, and sustainability methods. These ethics are the forefront of the brand and can be seen to
4
determine the brands target market, while also influencing the Porter’s 5 Forces analysis of the brand’s competition. The researcher has analysed internal and external proccesses, including political, economical, sociological, technological and environmental issues. Some of these issues have been uncontrollable, and some of which manageable by the business, which may have either positively or negatively affected Stella McCartney Ltd. The comparisons with other luxury brands, are depicted through their individual strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats, their social media presence and marketing strategies. These are all factors that have helped to shape the way that Stella McCartney protects her business from threats by the other companies and also reinventing her business in order to keep up to date with the times.
(Fig.1)
5
HISTORICAL CONTEXT Evolution of Stella McCartney
1995
Stella graduated from CSM
Became creative director of Chloe in Paris.
Launched collection in her name in partnership with Kering.
1997 Introduced the Falabella handbag, distinguished by the braided chain detail. The Falabella bag has since become one of Stella’s best selling items.
2001
Launched the ‘Meat Free Monday’ awareness campaign in the UK. 2009
2010 First Stella McCartney Kids Collection launched, capturing spirit and energy of kids today from newborn to 14 years.
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All sunglasses released Stella McCartney compliment her collecti and are eco-friendly 2011
2010 Stella McCartney has over 40 free standing stores in Manhattan’s Soho, London’s Mayfair and Brompton Cross, LA’s West Hollywood, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, Shanghai and Beijing. 2015
Launched the London Stella McCartney Green Carpet Collection. 2014
2015
Stella McCartney’s collections have been distributed in 70 countries through 600 wholesale accounts.
(Stella McCartney Ltd 2015)
‘Stella’ perfume released. 2003 2004
Launched new lingerie collection of aspirational styles that fully reflected the modern woman’s needs.
Collaborated with adidas to create running, gym, yoga, tennis, winter sports, cycling and swimwear for women.
2008 by
ions
Appointed Team GB’s Creative Director for the London Olympics by adidas. First time the kit for the Olympic and Paralympic games has been designed by a leading fashion designer. 2012
2013
2012
Awarded Best International Designer of the Year at The Elle Style Award in London and the “Conscious Award” at H&M and Elle Awards in Stockholm.
Created a capsule evening collection for London Fashion Week.
7
8
(Fig.1)
9
(Fig.2)
HISTORICAL CONTEXT Ethics and Brand Ethos Stella McCartney has built a brand around her beliefs. Brought up as a vegetarian by her parents Paul and Linda McCartney, Stella has reflected her moralistic upbringing in her designs as there is no use of any fur, leather or animal skins in her collections. There are three things that she feels are integral to the foundations of her business: Her commitment to sustainability is
10
evident
through this brand ethos: “We are committed to being a responsible, honest, and modern company.� (Stella McCartney Ltd 2015)
Responsible: The brand accepts that they are not perfect in terms of sustainability and are always expanding their ideas for innovative ways to become more sustainable. They understand their responsibility within the company to improve their sustainable resources and reduce the impact they have on the environment.
Honest: Stella McCartney believes that honesty accompanies their responsibility in building a more sustainable brand. Their acceptance of their imperfection regarding sustainability helps their consumer to understand the brand “ S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y thoroughly
more therefore their
ISN’T JUST ONE
developing
loyal
consumer THING” base. “sustainability isn’t just one thing, it isn’t just organic cotton – it’s organic cotton, plus wind energy, plus not using PVC, plus thousands of other little steps that eventually make a more sustainable company.” Modern: To Stella McCartney, being a modern company is not simply about modern design, it is about considering the future of the planet, through creating beautiful garments that challenge the idea that commonly surrounds ‘eco-fashion’ (http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/ stellas-world/sustainability/company-statement/)
11
12
“EACH YEAR, AROUND 32 MILLION ANIMALS IN THE EUROPEAN UNION ARE KILLED SOLELY FOR THEIR FUR”
13
“FUR IS NOT A BY-PRODUCT OF THE MEAT INDUSTRY. ANIMALS ARE MURDERED ONLY FOR THEIR PELTS”
14
(Fig.1)
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THE LUXURY MARKET The size of the luxury market as a whole was at â‚Ź223 billion in 2014. In an article with the Business of Fashion, ticles/people/stella-mccartney-change-agent),
(http://www.businessoffashion.com/ar-
studies at the Company House in
London shows that the overall revenue for Stella McCartney Ltd grew by more than 60%, to approximately $44 million with profits of $5 million between 2010 and 2013. This does not include the business’ collaborations with adidas for the sportswear collections, Proctor and Gamble for the beauty range and Bendon for the lingerie range. These factors produce estimates of around $150-200 million global revenue for Stella McCartney Ltd.
16 Estimated 2013 worldwide luxury goods market: by category 4% 20%
23%
28%
25%
The Luxury market is about providing a personable customisation experience and consumers have high expectations about certain qualities of these luxury goods. The unique value of a luxury item is essential to developing a brand’s identity. The characteristics and overall image of the brand plays a large role in a consumer’s choice as they expect distinction and exclusivity from high priced designer items. Through Stella McCartney’s brand ethos, it is evident that she feels animal products are unnecessary to create this distinction in exclusivity, and that there is a certain level of morality that must be at the foundation of creating rare and unique designs for a high end consumer. In the individual value of a luxury good, many consumers believe that owning the correct possessions leads to happiness, and that success can be determined by the things people own. In this respect, luxury items become more valuable to the consumer, therefore adding perceived value to the brand. (http://www.idosi.org/mejsr/mejsr12(11)12/1.pdf)
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INTERNAL PROCESSES
TECHNOLOGY Stella McCartney’s collaboration with adidas uses cutting edge sports performance technology. The materials that she uses in her designs for adidas have a very high technical level of involvement. This could question her commitment to sustainability as adidas’s ethical sources are not clarified.
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E-COMMERCE As e-commerce is such a large area for expansion “Referred to as ‘the next China for luxury items in terms of opportunity’, retailers are exploring the world of luxury e-commerce, a move driven largely by consumer demand. According to a recent McKinsey white paper, luxury e-commerce sales will reach $21bn by 2020 and are expected to drive 40% of sales growth for luxury brands.” (http://ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk:2264/content/board_ viewer/#/59757/page/10)
MANUFACTURING As Stella’s brand is built upon not using leather or fur or any animal skins in her designs, it can be challenging to find alternative fabrics that have similar properties to the animal products. Vegetable coatings is one option that has pushed the boundaries in a sustainable way without sacrificing style. As the business is so ethically focussed, manufacturing of materials is not an area that can be replaced or substituted as ethics are such an inte-
19
(Fig.1)
gral factor to her business.
EXTERNAL PROCESSES POLITICAL If taxes were to rise on trade between luxury items coming into the country, this could affect Stella McCartney Ltd as a proportion of the brand’s revenue comes from goods sold at airports. This is due to the changing luxury consumer being more perceptive and smart about where they buy, and how much they pay for their luxury items. Travel is becoming a crucial element to luxury consumers and has consequently changed the overall buying experience associated with luxury goods. For example, Chinese travellers have embraced travelling to international countries such as New York and Paris to buy handbags and other luxury items to avoid the high domestic prices and taxes that are applied in China.
20 ECONOMIC Labour costs increasing could affect Stella McCartney’s business, and her 40 worldwide stores. This rise in labour costs could be emerging from the manufacturing part of the business. This is a positive alteration for the workers involved in less economically developed countries, however it also affects the businesses as they are having to invest more money into their labour. This is another positive ethical trait for Stella McCartney as an integral part of her brand is to support the minimising of exploitative working conditions.
SOCIOLOGICAL Feminism- Stella McCartney supports and encourages powerful female figures which is demonstrated through her strong silhouettes in her designs. She embraces femininity while presenting an underlying strength and endurance to the female form. The uprise in social media and the freedom for the public to so freely express their opinions has severely affected this portrayal of feminism and has detracted from the important issues. Instead, it focuses on the negativity and somewhat immature aspects such as ‘man hating’, which is falsely related to the movement. The controversy surrounding feminism and extremist feminists, which has been misconstrued to some extent in recent years, may have had an impact on Stella McCartney’s brand, as she is such an avid supporter of the movement. TECHNOLOGY The rapid development in technology, particularly wearable technology and sports technology has had a positive impact on Stella McCartney’s brand. This is especially evident in her collaboration with adidas. The materials that Stella uses in her designs for adidas use cutting edge sports performance technology and have a very high technical level of involvement. Stella McCartney also designed the Team GB kit for the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic games, and will do for Rio 2016. This collaboration with such a well known and worldwide event will bring attention to her brand and it will highlight Stella’s diversity as a designer as she has experience in luxury, eco fashion and also in dealing with sports technology.
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EXTERNAL PROCESSES LEGAL Counterfeits and copyright infringement can limit the individual qualities that are associated with luxury goods. As cheaper copies are made, and broader availability of the product increases, many items becomes less attractive to the original luxury consumer, as they are seeking a unique and exclusive product. In October 2015, Stella McCartney sued the American accessories designer, Steve Madden, over selling a “poorly made copy” of her successful Falabella bag. This damaged Stella McCartney’s brand as she was threatened by a substitute product that was on offer elsewhere (in the black market). This ruinined the exclusivity and therefore the value of the luxury item.
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(http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2015/10/09/stella-mccartney-sues-steve-madden-falabella-bag)
The working conditions in factories that make cheap clothes for the high street and the luxury sector have been questioned for their immoral practices. Many large companies disregard the sweatshop labour conditions with their focus purely being on profit. This apparent disregard by other companies highlights to Stella McCartney that her brand must be constantly seeking new ways to improve and become more ethical. The increasing awareness to consumers regarding the exploitative labour conditions has an impact on the luxury sector as a whole. Consumers have started to take notice of many protesting campaigns, and are more willing to buy into a brand if the production of the item is ethically and sustainably sourced.
ENVIRONMENTAL The recent controversy surrounding the famous Hermès ‘Birkin’ bag has affected Stella McCartney’s brand in a positive way. After Jane Birkin (whom the bag is named after) was shown disturbing footage from an undercover documantary by PETA, she wrote a formal complaint letter to Hermes, asking that her name be disassociated with the bag, until more ethical practices were introduced in regards to sourcing the animal skin. Consumers are becoming more aware of the ethics behind such luxurious animal skin bags, which may persuade them to buy into more ethical brands, or fully vegetarian brands such as Stella McCartney Ltd.
(Fig.1)
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COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION STELLA MCCARTNEY STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Strong brand recognition: chic and
Did her father’s fame help to drive
ethical.
Stella’s success in the fashion industry and could it be considered as
Creates cruelty-free fashion.
cheeky? Stella admits the brand is not 100%
Constantly working on new
sustainable.
sustainablity methods.
The connections with the brand conflict with her strong morals.
Famous parents, former Beatles
24
member Paul McCartney and photogropher and animal rights activist Linda McCartney.
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Menswear collection will enable the
Collaborations with brands such as
brand to branch out to expand their
Gap, adidas and H&M (fast fashion
target audience. Creating
brands) who overlook cheap, immor-
sustainable menswear fashion will
al sweatshop labour conditions in
create a niche market.
under-developed countries.
The brand should make their own
This questions her own moral beliefs.
fabric as they currently only use
Many similar products elsewhere in
what’s available in the market. This
the market.
can be limiting in terms of organic variety.
DIRECT COMPETITORS
INDIRECT COMPETITORS Competition and Market Position
ECOFASHION COMPETITORS
25
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION Competitors
The direct competitors for Stella McCartney are all British designers. Paul Smith is similar to Stella in his sharp tailoring, whereas Victoria Beckham focuses more on the femininity and modernism that Stella bases the her brand image around. These competitors present a confident, strong and feminine brand appearance for their loyal customers, like Stella, which makes them the most ‘threatening’ competitors.
26
The indirect competitors for Stella McCartney are due to the fact that they offer different types of product to the consumer, while still fulfilling the demand for the luxury goods. The goods that Louis Vuitton, (the market leader), Hermés, Yves Saint Laurent and Ralph Lauren produce are on a similar price range to Stella McCartney Ltd, however they do not hold many of the same ethics that Stella’s brand maintains. The use of animal skins, fur and leather is still rife throughout these competitors’ designs which differentiates them from Stella McCartney in the market sector, therefore making them less of a threat to her morally assured and more ethical and sustainability conscious target market.
High Cost
High Sustainability
Low Sustainability
Low Cost
27
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION VICTORIA BECKHAM
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
As she is well known in the celebrity
Fame induced success in fashion
world already, her famous family
industry?
further increases the recognition of her brand.
Will consumers be able to view her designs wihtout the pre-judgement
Strong and feminine silhouettes
28
of her pop star days?
create a powerful image for the brand. Awards for her designs demonstrate success despite being relatively new to the industry.
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Social media.
Similar products elsewhere in the market.
Innovative campaigns will increase the awareness of her brand.
Not ethical, are consumers becoming more aware?
29
(Victoria Beckham Ltd, 2015)
30
(Victoria Beckham Ltd, 2015)
31
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Recognisable, well known brand.
The company Vivienne Westwood Ltd has no environmental policy in place
Loyal customer base.
to reduce the impact of global warming itself; it promotes change
“Matriarch of revolution through
without physically taking
fashion”
action.
Personally comitted to fighting climate
Not very ethical.
32
change.
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Collaborations to reach a younger
Still uses animal products in designs,
audience.
not as eco friendly or sustainable as Vivienne personally claims to be.
Social media expansion to further increase scope and reach out to a new and perhaps younger target market.
33
(Vivienne Westwood Ltd 1995)
34
(Vivienne Westwood Ltd 2015)
35
(Stella McCartney Ltd 2010)
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION ALEXANDER McQUEEN
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Unique designs.
Target market is somewhat limited due to unique and wacky designs.
Strong brand image. Not a very sustainable brand. Market nicher. Not very affordable. Reputation for creativity and fine tailoring.
36 OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Room for store expansion as there are
Current creative director Sarah Burton
only 21 stores globally.
took over from Alexander McQueen himself following his death in 2010.
Space for social media and technology expansion e.g. Snapchat.
This put pressure on Burton to portray the same levels of unique creativity that Alexander himself would.
37
(Alexander McQueen Ltd 2014)
38
(Alexander McQueen Ltd 2014)
39
(Stella McCartney Ltd 2015)
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION PAUL SMITH
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Global, premium brand.
Limited brand awareness in the womenswear sector, as the brand
British, tailored, androgynous feel to
began prominently in menswear.
designs. Counterfeits of Paul Smith items have Strong distribution network in London,
damaged the image of the brand.
Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo.
40 OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Social media development to expand
Competitive market sector.
audience and general recognition e.g. Snapchat to give previews of
Limtied brand awareness on a global
collections.
scalecould hinder sales
41
(Paul Smith Ltd, 2015)
42
(Paul Smith Ltd, 2014)
43
(Stella McCartney Ltd 2015)
BENCHMARKING STELLA MCCARTNEY V S 44
Fig 2
VICTORIA BECKHAM
Fig 1
45
STORES
MARKETING STRATEGIES
Has over 40 free standing stores
Campaign
in Manhattan’s Soho, London’s
quirky, individual and fun,
Mayfair
represents brand and how
and
Brompton
Cross,
videos
are
LA’s West Hollywood, Paris,
Stella wants the brand to
Milan, Tokyo, Shanghai and
be an exciting, yet ethical
Beijing. Collections distributed in
brand.
70 countries through 600 0wholesale
accounts.
(http://
www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/about-stella/)
ETHICS
46
Questionable as a
AGE OF CONSUMER
sustainable
company
as
not all of her products are 100% sustainable. However she cares about the
1-50
environment
and
tries
to
make a difference.
PRICE Dress
prices
E-COMMERCE range
from
Launched the e-commerce
£500 for basic dresses, to
site in the UK 2010,
£4900 for smarter, evening
reaching
dresses.
across the globe.
out
to
countries
MARKETING STRATEGIES
STORES One store- 36 Dover Street
Campaign
video
showing
in Mayfair, opened 2014.
store layout and inspiration.
Available through
Quirky, black and white-
wholesale and concessions
sophisticated
at Harrods, Harvey Nichols,
classical music in the
Liberty, Selfridges and The
background.
Shop At Bluebird.
(https://www.victoriabeckham.
theme
with
com/look/doverstreet/)
AGE OF CONSUMER
ETHICS Faced controvercy with the
25-50
animal
rights
group
PETA
in 2010 for her animal skin handbags. The group sent Beckham a video to persuade her to use
PRICE
cruelty-free alternatives. (vogue.co.uk)
Dress prices vary from £1000 to £3600 in the ‘ready to
E-COMMERCE
wear’ section. Victoria by Victoria Beckham cheaper with
is
Launched e-commerce site
other,
in 2013, expanded business
ranging
to sell to not only the UK but
collection than
dress
the
prices
from £350 to £1200.
the USA and Europe.
47
AWARDS STELLA MCCARTNEY 1999
2011
“British Designer of the Year, The Elle “Red Carpet Award, The British Style Awards, London
Fashion Council, London
2000
2012
Designer of the Year, The Rover British British Designer of the Year, Harper’s Fashion Awards, London
Bazaar Woman of the Year Awards
Designer of the Year, VH1/Vogue International Award, Telva Fashion and Music Awards, New York magazine’s, Madrid Brand of the Year, Luxury Briefing
48
2002
Awards, London
Style Icon, Elle Style Awards, London
Designer of Year and Brand of the Year, The British Fashion Council,
2004
London
Best Designer of the Year, The Glamour Award, London
2013 Best International Designer of the
Star Honouree, Fashion Group
Year, The Elle Style Award, London
International Night of Stars, New York Conscious Award, H&M & Elle Awards, Stockholm 2007
Presented with an OBE, Order of the
International Designer of the Year, British Empire, award for excellence Elle Style Awards, London
and service in the fashion industry.
Best Designer of the Year, The Elle Style Award for Award, London
2014
Best Designer of The Year, The British Women’s Leadership Award, Lincoln Style Awards, London”
Center Corporate Fund, New York”
(http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/about-stella/)
AWARDS VICTORIA BECKHAM 2007 Entrepeneur and Woman of the Year, Glamour Awards 2011 Designer of the Year, British Fashion Awards Accessories
Designer,
Glamour
Awards
Fig 1
2014 Brand of the Year, British Fashion
49
Awards
Fig 2
Stella McCartney Ltd was established 7 years prior to Victoria Beckham Ltd and has a considerable amount of awards compared to show for it. On the Stella McCartney Ltd website, these awards are clearly presented, which makes consumers more aware of how prestegious the brand is and makes it appear more valuable and something worth investing in. Victoria Beckham should present her awards on her website as it would may add value to her brand.
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION Eco-Fashion Competitors
(Fig.1)
50
(Fig.2)
Edun
is
a
global
fashion
brand
that
is
based
in
New
York.
Founded in 2005 by Ali Hewson and U2 frontman Bono, its’ mission is to source
production
and
encourage trade in
Africa. It is building
long-term sustainable growth opportunities by supporting manufacturers, community-based initiatives and partnering with African artists and artisans. (http://edun.com/pages/about)
‘Honest By’ was created by Bruno Pieters in 2010. It a 100% transparent business and is the first in the world to share the full cost breakdown of all of its products. The concept behind Honest By offers designers and brands a public platform to share their own design processes from manufacturing details to the sources of their fabric. “We
believe Fashion is
about beauty and
that
behind
can be
fashion
beautiful.
We
the
story equally
want to give our
customer the opportunity to shop with complete awareness of what they
51
are buying. We want to produce all of our products in a life friendly way. We believe in the health of our clients skin. We want the impact of our products and activities on the environment and human health to be as small as possible. (http://www.honestby.com/en/age/16/about.html)
Bodkin is a company that was founded by Eviana Hartman in 2008. Bodkin employs the use of certified organic fibers “virtually all of our cotton is organic. We employ innovative new fibers such as Tencel (a closedloop textile from renewable eucalyptus pulp) and post-consumer recycled fibers. However,
some
such as wool and
cashmere,
difficult
with o r g a n i c
to
certification,
find but
are
inherently
more
sustainable
than
materials, are
agricultur-
ally grown, water-intensive fibers.” The goal of her company is to merge modern silhouettes and aesthetic with long-term sustainable methods to create a conscious approach to creating items of quality. (http://www.bodkin.us/about.html)
COMPETITION AND MARKET POSITION Eco-Fashion Competitors
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
New market, opportunities for growth.
Little brand recognition.
Well known founders help to promote
Threats from competitors as they are
the brand more.
offering a similar product.
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Large platform for designers and
100% transparent company,
companies to collectively publish work.
consumers may be put off by being
52
able to view the profits made by the company.
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
Ecofashion is a niche market sector,
Materials not always 100% organically
therefore there is room for
certified.
development. This Uses recycled fabrics and mostly all
questions
their
place
in
the
eco-fashion sector.
organic cotton.
53
There are many similarities between Stella McCartney Ltd and the eco fashion businesses that they compete with. Like many of the more sustainable companies, it is debatable whether a brand can be truly, 100% sustainable, as there will always be room for improvement, and ways to better the company.
BOSTON MATRIX STAR The star area of Stella McCartney Ltd is the accessories section. Stella’s accessories have a high market share, in addition to the potential for high growth rates. In particular, the ‘Falabella’ bag is one of the brand’s most recognisable products, generating a substantial proportion
54
of the positive cash flow, and offering further opportunities for the product to develop and expand within the market.
(http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/falabella_section)
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
55
BOSTON MATRIX CASH COW The Cash Cow area of Stella McCartney Ltd is the ‘adidas by Stella McCartney’ range. There is a strong presence of ‘adidas x stella’ in the sports-luxe market and this collection provides a reliable income to the company as the it is very popular. The growth and opportunities for expansion, however, are more
56
limited than accessories as the sportswear sector in the luxury market is not as vast and sportswear is not as often linked directly with the luxury market.
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
57
Stella McCartney designed the Team GB kit for the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic games, and will do for Rio 2016. This brings attention to her brand and its collaboration with adidas and demonstrates Stella’s diversity as a designer as she has experience in luxury, eco-fashion and also in dealing with sports technology.
BOSTON MATRIX PROBLEM CHILD The Problem Child of Stella McCartney Ltd is her beauty range. The low market share in a high growth market means that there are many opportunities for expansion, perhaps meaning the beauty range becoming a cash cow or star in the future. In 2013, Stella McCartney handed over her beauty licencing from L’Oréal to Procter and Gamble, who have been working on banning animal testing since the Eighties. This fits with Stella’s brand ethos to not use animal skins or fur in her designs.
58
Below is a link to Stella’s latest perfume campaign, demonstrating that the company has invested in the area to increase awareness and boost sales. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rMP02pENLc
(http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/beauty_section)
59
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
BOSTON MATRIX DOG
The Dog area of Stella McCartney Ltd is her lingerie range. It has a low market share in the industry which does not have much room for expansion. The lingerie sector is a competitive market, and with such competitors as Calvin Klein and Emporio Armani, Stella’s linngerie collection does not have a forceful presence in the market. Investing more money into the area may
60
result in a negative cash flow. Although the dog of the campany was listed as the lingerie collection, lately there have been endorsements and investments into the area in order to the boost sales...
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2014)
61
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2013)
The ‘Louise Listening Bra’ is Stella’s latest lingerie product. This post double mastectomy compression bra provides technical support and essential comfort. With a front zip fastening for ease, a wide underband and deep sides, it offers support and compression during the post mastectomy healing process. All procedes of this bra will help benefit the Hello Beautiful Foundation.
In aid of the Hello Beautiful Foundation, Stella designed a post
62
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
Stella McCartney has also designed a lingerie collection in support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month. A percentage of the proceeds made by this ‘Alina Playing’ lingerie set will be donated to the Linda McCartney Centre in the UK, the National Breast Cancer Foundation in the US and the National Breast Cancer Foundation in Australia.
“Cara represents a generation of young women that we are really trying to reach and catch the attention of... She has that confidence that we want to bring to a new generation of young women and also inspire all generations of women to be aware of breast cancer and to be aware that preventing is the most positive approach� - Stella McCartney 2015.
(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
63
By working with charities such as the Hello Beautiful Foundation for Breast Cancer Awareness, it has helped to bring attention to the lingerie collections of the brand while also raising awareness and contributing to good causes.
MARKETING
Strategy For Promotion: Social Media As instagram is one of the most popular, and rapidly increasing platforms for brands to promote themselves, Stella McCartney has utilised this to her full advantage to increase her accessibility and outreach to different target markets. At the tip of their fingers and at the touch
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of a button, consumers from a range of ages and backgrounds have access to images of new collections and videos of recent campaigns along with products. This combined with imagery that inspires Stella and that is directly posted by her, may make the consumer feel more personally famillar with her, as she is presented to be down-to-earth. This perceived mutual respect may make a customer more likely to buy into the product.
a
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(https://instagram.com/stellamccartney/)
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(Fig.1)
MARKETING: Events At The Royal Institution of Great Britain, Stella McCartney launched the ‘Stella McCartney Green Carpet Collection’. At this event, she showcased an entire capsule collection of evening wear, shoes and accessories made from recycled or sustainably sourced materials. “This collection is a huge step towards what I always have aimed to achieve, to push the boundaries
and
stereotypes
of
sustainable
fashion by proving that it is possible to create and deliver beautiful, luxurious evening wear causing little to no harm to the environment.” The collection was displayed in five different themed rooms; an English Pub, a woodland forest, a Magician’s parlour, a photo studio and an artist’s studio. Film and music influence Stella’s work often, so suitably, many aspects
of
the
event
film sets, working with company
Drèsd.
recreated
For Pub,
using materials
“IT’S ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN!”
were
reused
the film set example, a
bar
from
from
recycling in
the
was
built
the
film
‘Theory of Everything’ and old furniture from the film “Worlds End”. A sustainably recreated forest was one of the room features, and was completed with recycled trees, shrubbery, grasses and tree stumps from Pinewood studios’ previous and forthcoming film productions. A gate and roof was recycled from the film set of “Les Miserables”. All of these elements were approved by the Forest Stewardship Council to ensure that they were sustainable and economically viable sources. This event not only promoted the brand further, but also raised awareness of ethical and sustainability issues.
(http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/press-room/green-carpet-challenge-2014-2/)
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MARKETING Strategy For Promotion: Advertising Stella McCartney Ltd’s YouTube channel has 3,517 subscribers with X videos. The videos on the channel include the latest seasonal campaigns, interviews and unconventional and eccentric video edits. These edits promote new products and help to draw attention to the brand to makes it stand out from many of the competitors.
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(Youtube.com)
Updates on the whereabouts of Stella herself and where the business is expanding or how it is becoming more sustainable also give consumers an insight into the background of the business. This fits with Stella’s brand ethos as she aims to become even more sustainable, and a large proportion of that is being honest to her consumers. Below is a link to Stella McCartney’s AW15 Campaign, demonstrating the quirky creativity that makes Stella’s campaigns so individual. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsRp7MjyZx8
At the top of this promotional edit video there is a hyperlink to the Stella McCartney Ltd website, indicating the utility of the platform in promoting sales.
(Youtube.com)
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70 A large part of the success in the promotion of Stella McCartney’s brand is from the ethical and sustainable side of her business. This positively distinguishes the brand from many of the other top competitors in the market, as they are the first and only vegetarian luxury brand not to use any animal products in their designs. Above is an example from the Stella McCartney Ltd website, displaying many links for consumers to find out about the brand’s beliefs and sourcing and manufacturing methods.
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(Stella McCartney Ltd, 2015)
MARKETING
Strategy For Promotion: Email Marketing Stella McCartney also utilises the seasons with her kidswear ranges, for example this October 2015, she has launched her kids “STELLAWEEN” collection.
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g
At the bottom of the home screen page on the
http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb
page is an option for customers to subscribe to the company newsletter with details and updates of the womenswear or kidswear collections.
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(http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb)
COLLATING CUSTOMER DATA Stella McCartney Ltd collects their customer’s data for a number of reasons. Gathering information about a consumer’s spending habits helps the brand to make personal suggestions through the use of email marketing and cookies on the website (as pictured on the previous pages). COOKIES Cookies are used on the Stella McCartney website to prolong the consumer’s experience with the brand and to collect the consumer’s data. Adverts displaying the same or similar products that the consumer was browing on the website will appear as adverts elsewhere on their web browser. Or the next time
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a consumer visits the website, their likes and preferences appear on screen, such as previously viewed items, providing a more tailored, personal experience. Many consumers believe that this provides ease to the e-commerce experience, however some fear for privacy infringement, hence why the website has a Privacy Policy in place. PRIVACY POLICY Due to the rapid development in technology and the internet in recent years, and the risks that accompany it, The Privacy Policy on the Stella McCartney website is to assure consumers that the personal information they provide the brand is protected. It highlights that the information is only used for marketing purposes such as sending newsletters to send to consumers, updates on products, offers, exclusive sales, promotional campaigns and events. (http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/Help/LegalArea/PrivacyPolicy)
E-COMMERCE Online shopping and e-commerce is a platform for collating customer data, as it is clearly evident which products are the best sellers and which categories need more money invested in them in order to boost sales.
(Fig.1)
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SOCIAL MEDIA Stella McCartney has utilised social media platforms to collate customer data. Through instagram, snapchat, facebook, and twitter to name a few, these platforms allow customers to give feedback about the brand. It is also a way to promote and advertise the brand’s products, through consumers personally posting, or through affiliate marketing, all alternative to traditional advertising methods.
CONSUMER ANALYSIS Stella McCartney has built a brand around not using animal products in her designs. This is one of many reasons why consumers buy into the company as they seek certain ethical, sustainable and aesthetic qualities from the high end luxury market, of which Stella provides.
(Fig.1)
76 STELLA’S WORLD On Stella McCartney’s website, there is a section called ‘Stella’s World’ with Q&A’s with Stella herself, Street Style images from members of the public and ‘Who’s Wearing Stella?’ featuring celebrities that have been spotted wearing the label. This engages consumers on a more personal level with Stella McCartney and allows them to feel more involved in the processes of the company which in turn helps the brand to develop their strong and loyal (Fig.2)
consumer base.
THE STELLA CUSTOMER There is a modern confidence and femininity that Stella McCartney portrays through her designs. The company’s target market is aged between 25 and 50 and is usually a woman who is responsible, knowledgeable and who has established beliefs that reflect those of Stella McCartney Ltd.
(Fig.3)
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They are interested in eco friendly materials that produce sustainable items, and tend to be very brand loyal due to the brand’s quality and the company’s values.
78
79
(Fig.1)
PORTER’S 5 FORCES NEW ENTRANTS Stella McCartney is at medium risk from new entrants to the market. The potential threat of up and coming businesses who may have a more sustainable sourcing method and ethical production of their items with a similar aethetic may affect Stella McCartney’s business as they could become more severe competitors in the future. SUBSTITUTE PRODUCTS The company is also is at threat from substitute products on the market. Unless all of Stella’s customers are extremely and completely brand loyal, there is a chance that they will find an alternative product to the one they originally desired. For example if an item is not in stock in a department store where the brand is a concession, a consumer may
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shop elsewhere if they feel as though there is nothing special for them. CUSTOMERS Stella McCartney’s brand is at risk from customers. Due to the fact that the luxury sector is thriving in the market place, there is a lot of pressure for brands to compete to gain a large consumer base. SUPPLIERS There is a large threat to Stella McCartney’s brand from suppliers. Due to Stella’s strong ethical beliefs, if her suppliers fail with providing sustainable resources, Stella’s business will bear the brunt of it, and face controversy with consumers. Article about stella’s retraction of the use of a source due to inhumane revelations. Organic cotton, are a number of contributors that Stells feels is crucial to her company.
(Fig.1)
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REINVENTING AND ADAPTING
MENSWEAR COLLECTION Stella McCartney Ltd should design and release a menswear collection. This would be providing a niche aspect to the luxury market, as sustainable eco fashion in the menswear sector is not as well developed or prominent. During the lead up to Christmas would be a good time to release details of the launch, as many consumers will be thinking about gift ideas. Around the Christmas period, there is generally a larger amount of wastage that occurs. The commercialised and fast paced
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world that we live in is demanding and draining on natural resources. Especially in the Western world, the use of metres of wrapping paper to present gifts that will shortly be thrown into the bin, in addition to the tons of food wastage that is prevalent at this time, all contributes to a very unsustainable holiday season. This combined with the fashion industry’s mass production of garments for high street and discount retailers is not viable for a sustainable future. Promoting the idea that an investment into an ethical fashion item will be more beneficial (as well as environmentally friendly), may deter consumers from buying into unethical and unsustainable fast fashion items. This promotion of the brand will bring more attention to the brand itself and expand its’ consumer target market, while raising awareness about the ecological impact surrounding fast fashion.
M E N
(Fig.1)
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“MENSWEAR IS NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS”
REINVENTING AND ADAPTING PLUS SIZE COLLECTION Stella McCartney Ltd should design and release a plus sized womenswear collection. This would be providing an aspect to the luxury market that is not as commonly catered for. As the average dress size for a woman in the UK has increased in recent years to a size 16, it would be a missed opportunity for Stella McCartney to seclude the ‘plus sized’ woman from her target market. Feminism and social issues concerning body image have fuelled this reinvention. As feminism is such a prevalent issue, as is body image, in todays society, it will become more relevant, as Stella McCartney supports the movement of feminism in her designs.
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She seeks to create pieces that represent strength and confidence in a woman by celebrating her fragility and embracing the feminine silhouette. As Stella McCartney is a well known brand, promoting her plus sized collection will encourage consumers to embrace plus sizes, making it more of a normality and a more common sector to the market. If this is implemented within a luxury brand, the idea will then filter through to the high street, allowing the consumer to view and embrace size differences making it more acceptable within society. Raising awareness of the issues surrounding body image would enable Stella McCartney’s brand to be recognised as a controvertial and versatile brand, while making the issues more acceptable within the luxury and general mass market.
“MY AIM IN LIFE IS NEVER TO BE SKINNY�
(Fig.1)
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Adele embraces her appearance, as the above quote demonstrates. For this reason she would be a suitable ambassador for the brand and the plus sized collection, helping to promote the business and raise awareness of the surrounding issues.
CONCLUSION To summarise, Stella McCartney Ltd has a strong presence in the luxury market sector. The brand’s ethical ethos and moral manufacturing methods have raised awareness and concerns over the use and exploitation of animal products that are prevalent in the luxury fashion industry. There is evidence through the SWOT analysis of eco fashion brands to demonstrate that the company could still improve their sustainability and ecological fashion status.
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The investigation shows that the most threatening brand competitors to Stella McCartney are Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith. Although their ethical principles are not as well established, their presence in the market is also very strong, and the products that these brands provide are similar to those of Stella McCartney. It is clear that the marketing strategies used by Stella McCartney are successful in promoting sales and have an overall positive impact on their brand image. The official website for the brand, stellamccartney.com, includes Q&As, as well as behing the scenes insights into the background of the company. This enables the consumer to relate to the company and Stella herself on a more personable level.
(Fig.1)
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deleeuw-122295839.html. [Accessed 28 October 15]. Fig.2: Tina Tyrell. 2009. Bodkin Collection. [ONLINE] Available at: http:// www.ecouterre.com/why-is-eco-fashion-so-expensive/bodkin-fall-20092/?extend=1. [Accessed 28 October 15]. Page 51: EDUN Ltd. 2015. About EDUN. [ONLINE] Available at: http://edun.com/ pages/about. [Accessed 14 November 15]. Honestby Ltd. 2015. About Honestby. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www. honestby.com/en/page/16/about.html. [Accessed 14 November 15]. Bodkin Ltd. 2015. About Bodkin. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.bodkin.us/about.html. [Accessed 14 November 15]. Page 54/55: Stella McCartney Ltd.. 2015. Falabella Section. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/falabella_section. [Accessed 28 October 15]. Stella McCartney Ltd.. 2015. Stella Accessories. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/online/stella-mccartney/women/ shoes. [Accessed 28 October 15].
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