yuen
yeung
THE
新
OLD
不
NEW
如
THING
舊
2015 MAY Issue 001
2
CONTENT EDITOR VOICE
編者的話
Gucci 竹節柄手袋
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LOCAL SHOP FEATURE
尋尋覓覓
草根尋寶
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14
封面故事
新不如舊-旗袍之美
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38
40
Strange Girl FOOD & BEVERAGE
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時尚延想
80 年代香港時裝片
The Aesthetic Of Details Made By Red A Little Thing Bowl PHOTO FEATURE
飲飽吃醉
特色工廠食堂 尋回香港精神 工廈改造- TFJS 美食追蹤-啫喱糖
THE OLD NEW THING DAILY PICK
女生日常
怪誕女生
Younique COVER STORY
生活基本
細節細緻 紅 A 製造 日常小物 食器
Vintage Paradise DO IT YOURSELF
自作業
自己動手 豐衣足食
Gucci bag
HK Spirit In Canteen Industrial Buildings Renew -TFJS Jelly Sugar FASHION COLUMISTS
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Fashion Movies In HK 80‘s
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER: Hu Zhi Hong | GENERAL MANAGER: Fred Wong | FINANCIAL CONTOROLLER: Charles Hui | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Jim Chan | ART DRECTOR: Marco Sze | CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER: Jimmy Kung | EDITORIAL: Phoebe Chan, Lam Sau Wui, Kaman Ng, Oscar Law, VincentLau, Cherry Chan, But Wai Ting, Even Chim, Kelcin Ko, Yuka Lai, Germo Leung | DESIGN: Macy Tam, Vin Lui, Tsui Chin Heng, Steve Leong | PHOTOGRAPHY: Cheung Wang Kit, Tai Kam Pang, Yuen Ting Hong | PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION: To Min, Mark Yeung | HEAD OF SALES& MARKETING: jolene Tam | BUSINESS DIRECTOR: Hosanna Keung | ASSOCIATE SALES DIRECTOR: Theodore Lam | ADVERTISING: Candy Au, Anaswer Chui, Kason Wong, Cheng Tsz Yan, Sarah Kwong | MARKETING: Ruby Chan | TRAFFIC: Dennis Lau
VOL.001
3
編
者
的
話
EDITOR VOICE
Gucci 竹節柄手袋捲土重來,我的 1997 年珍藏,與當年戴安 娜王妃所用的一樣。 凡是時裝迷大概都會有滿屋琳瑯滿目豐富的衣服、包包、鞋 履和首飾藏品吧?何況成長和浸淫於香港繁華盛世最追求精 品奢華文化 80 年代的我,至今依然戒不掉的一鋪癮便是愛 買奢侈品牌和名師設計的精品,日積月累下銀行戶口沒存下 多少個零,倒是囤積了一屋的名牌服飾,就像《Sex & The City》裏的 Carrie Bradshaw,哈哈! 以前母親常嘮叨:「一星期只有七天,你只有一雙手一雙腳 穿得下這麼多東西嗎?」年輕時我總是置若罔聞,40+ 後當 然 另 有 一 番 體 會。 人 生 不 是 時 裝 偶 像 劇,Carrie Bradshaw 最終找到 Mr Big 這樣的一張長期飯票,繼續買買買!現實裏 中年單身女子則凡事都是一個投資,投資便須謹慎啊,包括 購物!所以時裝的主要消費群是 40 歲以下,因為最愛趕潮流 和最有千金散盡還復來的氣概,毫不計較地霎時衝動購物。 半輩子沉溺時尚後,我唯一的阿 Q 式自我安慰是潮流去而復 來,早買划得來,後買則漲價,十年內可以翻幾倍,特別是 名牌經典手袋,像 Gucci 竹節柄手袋。當然,如果人生可以 重組,我寧願在家隨手便翻出一大箱鈔票,哈哈!當潮流過 後,衣服鞋襪這些東西並非黃金鑽石般值錢,留下的只是個 人的成長歲月與回憶紀錄。
王麗儀 - 鴛鴦總編輯
4
5
6
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尋
尋
覓
覓
LOCAL SHOP FEATURE
草根尋寶 外國一向興古著,而倫敦的 Brick Lane 因為古著 Vintage 店 夠特色,整街塗鴉既嬉皮又不羈,所以能集中城市甚至世界 各地的潮人到訪。二手對於很多人來說可能有所禁忌,「嘩 都是被人穿過的」,「會不乾淨嗎」,亦略聽聞過靈異有關 的古著故事,所以在亞洲文化上,古著店並不是像外國般受 追捧,種類亦沒有外國多。 在香港好些古著店集中於中環蘇豪區,只要樂意走穿梭於不 起眼的小巷,不難發現一兩間在角落。在香港的古著界,一 間《美芝》一間《美華氐》,沒有可能未聽過的。
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VINTAGE PARADISE Foreign always popular vintage, while London‘s Brick Lane because enough features vintage Vintage shop, the whole street graffiti both uninhibited hippie again, they are able to focus the city even the influx of people from around the world to visit. Used for many people may be contraindicated, “Wow, is being worn,” “will not clean it,” is slightly vintage heard stories about the supernatural, so in the Asian culture, vintage stores and not as foreign as popular these days, and no foreign species much.Vintage shop in Hong Kong is better to focus on the Central Soho, just happy to take the shuttle to obscure alleys, difficult to find twelve in the corner. In the vintage sector of Hong Kong, a “Meizhi” or “Midwest” there is no possibility never heard of. Text/ sofa Lee Photo/ mary lam Model/ Keikeif
Local Shop Feature | Vintage paradise
9
選 購 守 Shopping 則
Rules
穿上一件古董衫,難免有介入別人世界的成分。如果你相信 衣服沾有靈魂,那我勸你三思。如果你好奇心甚重,渴望衣 服會說話,或許她將訴說著如歡的舊夢,讓你癡迷,給你帶 來靈感,也說不定。 Wearing a vintage, If you believe in soul stained clothes, then I advise you to think again. If you have very heavy curiosity, eager clothes could talk, perhaps she will tell her dream, to bring you inspiration instead.
1 看 designer 標簽,如果有原售店的售價標簽,更代表未穿 過,雖然年歲久遠,但勝在清白底細。 See designer labels, if there is the price tag of the original sale of the store, but not representatives, although the age-old, but the bottom line wins in innocence.
2
看腋下部位,若有黃黃舊舊的汗跡,不用考慮,聞一聞,
若有怪味惡臭,也不用考慮,因為這些統統洗不掉。 Look armpit area and smell, if the smell stench, they do not consider, because these were all washed away.
3 造型是否老氣?能否與衣櫃中的服飾協調搭配?通常晚裝 的造型越清簡,越摩登,越容易搭配。初入門者,可從一個 古董包包,牛仔褲、夾克著手,適應後再往高難度的 mix & match,cross-culture 發展。 Too old fashioned? Can costumes and wardrobe coordination with it? Usually more clear more modern, more easy to match. Early starters, from a vintage bag, jeans, go down after adaptation difficult mix & match development.
4 但若布料已開始撕破,就完全不值得考慮。鈕扣最傷腦筋, 除非是極普通的鈕扣,否則配齊不易。 However, if the fabric has begun to tear, completely not worth considering. Buttons most headache is very common coin unless otherwise complete with easy.
10
「廿蚊買塊布都抵啦妹。」
Local Shop Feature | Vintage paradise
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美之風格 說 到 Vintage, 很 多 人 會 以 為 她 就 是 復 古 或 者 古 著。 其 實 Vintage 與 Antique Fashion( 古 典 時 尚 ),Classic Fashion( 古 著 ) 在大面上的意思基本相同。但是細細品味過後還是各有 偏 向 , 著 重 點 不 太 相 同。Antique 多 數 是 指 傢 具 , 首 飾 等 物 品 , 而且年頭要比另兩者都要求的長。Classic( 古著 ) 雖說和 Vintage 十分接近 , 但不見得是在款式和做工上有保留價值的 東西。其實“Vintage”的意思簡單地說就是“old”,它發 源並繁衍於廉價的二手商店,卻並不代表陳舊。它體現的是 一種成熟的、歷時不變的經典魅力。用一句大白話來說,經 典的衣服就是過去能穿、現在能穿、將來還能穿的衣服。它 們不是純為迎合當季時尚而設計。 70 年代男士愛穿細襟領貼身西裝及窄領,此外還有緊身大關 刀領恤衫及喇叭褲。他們也趕上美國牛仔褲及 Post-Hippies 風潮。女士們則愛女強人套裝、修腰連身裙、Mary Quant 迷 你裙、熱褲、低腰喇叭褲、牛仔褲襯橫間長襪,還有蕭芳芳 扮演「林亞珍」所穿的高底松木鞋,大墊膊西裝褸、特大曲 尺形剪栽長身大褸等。近年吹起懷舊熱潮,以上提及的 7-80s 潮物,都可以在美芝找到。
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M E E & G E E style
Speaking of Vintage, a lot of people will think she is retro or
vintage. In fact, Vintage and Antique Fashion (Classic fashion), Classic Fashion (Vintage) in basically the same meaning large
surface. But after their own favor or savor, the focus is not the same. Antique mostly refers to furniture, jewelry and other items, but both require another year than long. Classic (vintage) and Vintage although very close, but not necessarily in the style and workmanship have retained something of value. In fact, “Vintage” means simply is “old”, it originated and multiply in a cheap second-hand store, does not mean that old. It embodies a mature, which lasted the same classic charm. With a large vernacular, the classic clothes that can be worn in the past, are now able to wear clothes in the future also. They are not pure in order to meet seasonal fashion and design. 1970s men wearing fine suits and narrow lapel collar collar close, in addition to tight mark knife collar shirt and bell-bottoms. They also catch up with the United States and Post-Hippies fashion jeans. Ladies will love the woman suit, repair waist dresses, between Mary Quant miniskirts, hot pants, low-waist flared trousers, jeans lining cross stockings, as well as Josephine plays ‚Lin Yazhen’ high-end pine worn shoes, big shoulder pads suit jacket, large L-shaped cut planted long body and other big jacket. In recent years, blowing nostalgia craze, 7-80s tide things mentioned above, can be found at MEEGEE.
Local Shop Feature | Vintage paradise
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美之的貨源除了香港的回收衣物 , 相信還包括了日本和韓國 ,
The supplier of MEE & GEE except our recycling clothes, also
以及一些工廠貨尾。或者說,是店裡的人都不會認識 . 那些
includes Japan and South Korea, those big brands such as polo,
很大的名牌如 polo, burberry, 便會標得比較貴,及加上名牌
burberry, will more expensive, and the words ‘brand’ label.
的 label。 古著不死,美之就一直不死,十年來一直是潮人尋寶地。冬 天最多是針織冷衫,三、四個旋轉衣架多款圖案任試,還有 皮褸、西裝褸、日式棒球褸等等,夏天最熱門則是女生碎花
However, perhaps most of the Hong Kong people do not like second-hand clothes, these will be display item. When vintage never die, MEEGEE would never die, MEEGEE has been there for ten years. knit sweater is the most popular item in winter , there are 3-4 stand different patterns sweater for you
裙,男生就當然是裇衫啦。美芝最厲害不止是便宜,而是一
to choose, leather jacket, suit jacket, Japanese baseball jackets,
直以來都 很便宜,以前可以找到一件 80 元的衛衣,兩日前
etc.are hot picks too. In summer ,the popular item would be floral
還可以買到 40 元的 Collect Point T-shirt。而且營業時間超
skirt for girls, shirt for boys. MEEGEE’s price havn’t increse for
長,可能知道大家需要長時間尋寶,女人街美芝開到最晚凌
long time. You can find generous sweater($80) long time ago, and
晨 3 點!
a Collect Point T-shirt($40) two days ago. Probably because they know people need a longtime for treasure hunt, MEEGEE will open to 3:00!
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九龍: 旺角通菜街 ( 女人街 )55 號地下 旺角通菜街 ( 女人街 )64 號地下 旺角花園街 181 號地下 尖沙咀加連威老道 67-69 號地下
Kowloon: Tung Choi Street 55 G/F Tung Choi Street 64 G/F Fa Yuen Street,G/F, 181 Granville Street TST No. 67-69
港島 : 中環利源西街 9 號地下 灣仔太原街 7 號地下
HK Island: Li Yuen Street West Granville 9 7,G/F Taiyuan Street, Wan Chai
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作
業
DO IT YOURSELF
自己動手 豐衣足食
自
從美芝或是其他古著店購買的衣服都有一個通病 - 尺寸不合。 一些尺寸過大,一些樣式太老,帶回家後便可拿起縫紉器材 來動手翻新,把原本不受青睞的衣服,搖身一變成了亮眼的 休閒服,甚至是小禮服。舊衣改造不是新話題,本期專題同 樣適用於你家中不合穿的衣服。
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Clothes from MEEGEE or other vintage clothes shops have a common problem - the size is not situatable at all. Some over-
YOUNIQUE
sized, some style too old, you can take home after picking up sewing equipment for hands-on renovation, originally from popular clothes, transformed into a dazzling casual clothes, or even a small dress. Clothes transformation is not a new topic, the current topic equally applicable to your home substandard clothes.‚ Text/ Meine Lee Photo/ mary lam Model/ Keikeif
Before
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Step 1
準備一條合適長度的裙子,平鋪在美芝裙上量度,預留出 5-8 厘米剪開。 >> Find a dress that have suitable length for you, place on the MEEGEE dress to measure, leave 5-8 cm for stitching.
或者直接剪出你的理想長度。 >> Or just to shorten and hem it to a length you liked.
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After
Step 2
準備針線,或用衣車按圖把裙擺縫合。 >> Prepare a sewing machine or needle, sew the hem of your MEEGEE dress.
Finish!
Do It Your Self | YOUNIQUE
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20
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封
面
故
事
COVER STORY Text/ Baid Fong Photo/ Carry chan
亞洲年輕女性的身材較之西方年輕女性,一般更顯纖細、秀
Asian young women than young Western women’s body, usually
麗的曲線美,而線條簡潔流暢、風格單純又雍容華貴的旗袍,
more slender, beautiful curves, while the clean lines and smooth,
其最大優點正在於它能恰如其分地呈現出這種女性胴體的曲
simple yet elegant style of dress, its biggest advantage is that it
線美。它在符合年輕女性的審美需求同時,也因製作上省工
can appropriately presented in this female body curves. It is in line
省料,著裝又很方便的優點,從而顯出蓬勃的生命力。
with the aesthetic needs of young women, but also due to the production cut corners, dress very convenient advantage, thereby showing vigorous vitality.
22
THE
新
OLD
不
NEW
如
THING
舊
23
旗 袍 之 美 風行於二十世紀 20 年代的旗袍,是由
自 30 年代起,旗袍幾乎成了中國婦女
中國傳統袍服在民國婦女在穿著中吸收
的標準服裝,民間婦女、學生、工人、
西洋服裝的式樣而不斷改進而定型的。
達官顯貴的太太,無不穿著。旗袍甚至
從 20 世紀 20 年代至 40 年代末,中國 旗袍風行了 20 多年,款式幾經變化, 如領子的高低、袖子的短長、開衩的高
24
成 了 交 際 場 合 和 外 交 活 動 的 禮 服。 後 來,旗袍還傳至國外,為他國女子效仿 穿著。
矮,使旗袍徹底擺脫了老式樣,改變了
30 年代和 40 年代是旗袍的黃金時代,
中國婦女長期來束胸裹臂的舊貌,讓女
也是近代中國女裝最為光輝燦爛的時
性體態和曲線美充分顯示出來,正適合
期。這時的旗袍造型纖長,與此時歐洲
當時的風尚,為女 性解放立了一功。青
流行的女裝廓形相吻合。此時旗袍已經
布旗袍最為當時的女學生所歡迎,一時
完全跳出了旗女之袍的局限,完全是一
不脛而走,全國效仿,幾乎成為 20 年
個「中西合璧」的新服式了。先是有了
代 後 期 中 國 新 女 性 的 典 型 裝 扮。 值 得
「別裁派」的說法。旗袍的局部被西化,
一提的是,當時作為領導服裝潮流的十
在領、袖外採用西式的處理,如用荷葉
里洋場中摩登女郎、交際名媛影劇明星
領、 西 式 翻 領、 荷 葉 袖 等, 或 用 左 右
等,在旗袍式樣上的標新立異,也促進
開襟的雙襟。這些改革的應用雖並不廣
了它的發展,其中如交際花唐瑛等人,
泛,但表示了當時人們思想上的自由,
最早在上海創辦的雲裳時裝公司便是。
旗袍原有的程式不再是必須遵循的。
Cheongsam
1840 After entering the modern, Western culture impregnated hit
1930s and 1940s was the golden age of cheongsam is modern
the local culture of the Qing Dynasty, many coastal cities, espe-
China’s most glorious period of women. Then dress slim shape,
cially in this metropolis Shanghai, because Huayang live together,
and popular women in Europe at this time profiles consistent
you must first Spanish atmosphere, the costumes also the begin-
physiognomy. Western-style dress and jacket also ride with Do
ning of a potential change.
not cut the pie, a feature, which makes the dress into the international garment large family, with a variety of modern clothing
Popular in the 1920s costumes, traditional Chinese robes by
combinations, indicating that it had been "internationalized and
absorption in the Republican women dressed in Western cloth-
modernized."
ing styles continue to improve and stereotypes. No professional center, change clothing styles to millions of households, under
The late 1930s there has been “improved cheongsam.” Cutting
the influence of the changing trend of the times.
method and structure is more westernized dress, chest and waist province provinces use more fitting dress, also appeared
From the late 1920s to the 1940s, Chinese cheongsam popular
shoulder seam and fitted sleeves, so that also fit the shoulders
for over 20 years, the style has changed several times, such as
and armpits. It was also so soft shoulder pads, that the “beauty
the level of the short length of the collar, sleeves and slits of
shoulder.” This suggests that women began to abandon the old
height, so dress to rid itself of the old style, the Chinese wom-
Xiaojian characterized ideal shaped corner. These cutting and
en’s long-term change to fundamentally bra wrapped arm, so
structural changes are done in Shanghai. Shanghai Hongxiang’s
that women and curvy body fully displayed, are appropriate to
descendants Mr. Jin Taijun this doubt. He himself has not yet
the prevailing fashion, for women established a success. Green
experienced the whole of the process, but his work in the 1940s
cloth dress female students was most welcome, and sometimes
at the time Hongxiang also get a lot of information about this
spread like wildfire, the country followed suit, almost become
place from a master craftsman. Then dress has matured has been
the late 1920s, China’s new women’s typical dress. It is worth
finalized, the future is no longer impossible to escape the basic
mentioning that, as a leader was the fashion of the modern girl
form of dress cheongsam determined 1930s, only in length, to
ten foreign market, communicative motion picture stars and other
make some changes in fat and lean and trim. Women around the
ladies, unconventional in style cheongsam, also contributed to its
world have favorite dress, is to dress as a typical 1930s.
development.
20‘s
30‘s
40‘s
Cover Story | The Old New Thing
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旗袍與西式外套的搭 配也是「別裁派」
30 年代旗袍為典型的。而 30 年代的旗
的一個特點,這使得旗袍進入了國際服
袍,就是以海派旗袍為楷模的。
裝大家族,可以與多種現代服裝組合, 說 明 它 已 經「 國 際 化 和 現 代 化 了 」。 20 年代的旗袍仍然寬大平直;與當時 流行的倒大袖相呼應,旗袍的下擺比較 大,整個袍身也是呈「倒大」的形狀。 但肩、胸乃至腰部,則已呈合身之趨勢 30 年代末出現了「改良旗袍」。旗袍 的裁法和結構更加西化,胸省和腰省的 使用旗袍更加合身,同時出現了肩縫和 裝袖,使肩部和腋下也合體了。有人還 使較軟的墊肩,謂之「美人肩」。這表 明女性開始拋棄以削肩為特徵的舊的理 想形角。這些裁剪和結構上的改變,都 是在上海完成的。上海鴻翔公司的後人 金 泰 鈞 先 生 對 此 堅 信 不 疑。 他 本 人 雖 未親身經歷了這一過程的全部,但他在 40 年代工作於鴻翔時,還可從老師傅 處獲得有關於此的很多消息。這時旗袍 已經成熟已經定型,以後的旗袍再也跳 不出 30 年代旗袍所確定的基本形態, 只能在長短、肥瘦及裝飾上作些變化。 全 世 界 女 性 們 所 鍾 愛 的 旗 袍, 就 是 以
二十世紀 20 年代,受西方服飾影響, 經改進之後的旗袍逐漸在廣大婦女中流 行起來。旗袍的樣式很多,有長旗袍、 短旗袍、夾旗袍、單旗袍等。改良後的 旗 袍 在 20 世 紀 30 年 代, 幾 乎 成 為 中 國婦女的標準服裝。 此時的時裝流行中心早已由蘇、揚移至 上海,上海又是婦女尋求解放的重鎮, 傳 教 士、 商 人、 革 命 黨 人 競 相 創 辦 女 學,掀起了一股女權運動浪潮。尋求解 放的社會大氣候蕩滌著服飾妝扮上的陳 規陋習,趨向於簡潔,色調力求淡雅, 注重體現女性的自然之美。旗袍最初是 以 馬 甲 的 形 式 出 現, 馬 甲 長 及 足 背, 加在短襖上。後將長馬甲改成有袖的式 樣,也就成了新式旗袍的雛形。據說得 風氣之先的上海女學生是旗袍流行的始 俑者。當時的女學生作為知識女性的代 表,成為社會的理想形象,她們是文明 的象徵、時尚的先導,以至社會名流時 髦人物都紛紛作女學生裝扮。
80 年代的香港
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1920s, by the influence of Western dress, the dress after gradually improved in the majority of women in popular. Many dress styles, long dress, short dress, dress clips, single dress and so on. Cheongsam improved in the 1930s, China has almost become the standard for women’s clothing. At this fashion has long been popular center by Su, Yang moved to Shanghai, Shanghai is the liberation of women seeking town, missionaries, businessmen, revolutionaries founded competing female school, setting off a wave of wave of the feminist movement. Seek liberation social climate cleaned up on stereotypes dress costumes tend to simple, elegant tone sought, pay attention to reflect the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam appeared initially in the form of a vest, vests and long dorsal, plus the Duanao. After a long sleeved vest style changed, it became the prototype of modern cheongsam. It is said that Shanghai was the trend of the first female students are beginning cheongsam popular figurines. As a representative of female students at the time of knowledge of women, the image of an ideal society, they are a symbol of civilization, fashion leader, as well as celebrities funky characters all have female students dress.
Hong Kong in 80’s
Cover Story | The Old New Thing
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左起:白光、王丹鳳、陳娟娟,1940 年代
影星:阮玲玉
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「 沉 靜 而 又 魅 惑, 古 典 隱 含 性 感, 穿 旗 袍 的女子永遠清艷如一 闕花間詞。」 |葉傾城
影星:夏夢
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Cover Story | The Old New Thing
愛衣成癡-宋美齡與摯愛旗袍 宋美齡喜歡穿旗袍,是她與生俱來的習慣。儘管她從 10 歲時 起就生活在美國,但她對自己的穿戴從來都要求中國式的服 飾。對於身邊偶然出現喜歡穿奇裝異服的新潮女性,宋美齡 往往看得很不習慣。有一年,台灣榮民總醫院給士林官邸裡 派來一位女護士,她喜歡穿超短裙,宋美齡和蔣介石見了都 感到這樣的穿著很不適合於在官邸出入,所以她委婉地勸止 了這個女護士。非但她不喜歡穿過於暴露的女性服飾,而且 出於女性的美感追求,宋美齡也反對穿長筒褲子。這是因為 她從理念上認為女性應該有她自己與男性截然不同的服飾特 點,所以在她生活的百餘年中,幾乎很少穿過長褲子。 宋美齡喜歡穿旗袍,所以有些與她相熟的國民黨高官的女眷 們,在與她相處的時候,逢有重要的節日時,都會禮節性地 向宋美齡贈送一些綢緞布料作為禮品。正因為如此,在宋美 她有了布料,就需要有人給她縫製剪裁各式合體的旗袍,這 些旗袍有夏天穿的淺色,有秋天穿的略深顏色,也有冬天所 穿的深藍或深綠的顏色。 總之,宋美齡總是需要一些便於四季不斷更換的旗袍,以應 酬各種賓客和官邸的人們。特別是當她將要出席各種有外國 人出席的集會、酒會和舞會的時候,宋美齡就會選擇適合於 她公開出現的服飾。非常重要的賓客,宋美齡就要穿上更加 高級的旗袍。如果誰有機會到她的更衣室裡去看一看,就會 發現裁縫師傅為她準備的所有旗袍中,可以分得清料質高低 和季節的區別。而這些不同顏色、不同資質的旗袍,平時都 由身邊管理服飾的女侍將它們編成號碼,以便於隨時取用。 宋美齡對一件旗袍,一般只穿一二次,特別是在夏天,氣候 炎熱的時候,她對旗袍的要求就會更高,最多穿一天要更換 一件。有時天氣過於炎熱,只要她的旗袍上出現了些許汗漬, 一般就要馬上再換一件新的來穿;如果下雨,她的旗袍下擺 出現了泥污,那麼她也一定要脫下來馬上更換新旗袍。
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「人們沒有能力改良他們的 生活情形。他們只能夠創造 貼身的環境 ─ 那就是衣服。 我們各人住在各人的衣服 裡。」
齡的住處才會有那麼多一輩子也使用不完的高級綢緞布料。
Soong May-ling & cheongsam She likes to wear cheongsam, is her innate habits. Although she played from the age of 10 living in the United States, but never wear her own Chinese-style clothing is required. For around occasional trendy women like to wear fancy dress, Kai-shek often look very accustomed to. One year, Taiwan’s total to the Veterans Hospital in Grandee sent a female nurse, and she likes to wear short skirts, and Chiang Kai-shek met feel this is very suitable for wearing out at the residence, so she politely discouraged this female nurses. She does not like not only through exposure to women’s apparel, but the pursuit of beauty for women, Kai-shek also opposed to wear long-barreled pants. so in her life a hundred years, rarely through the long pants. When Kai-shek like to wear cheongsam, so some of her acquaintances KMT officials of the women who, along with her when every important festival, will be presented courtesy of some silk cloth to Kai-shek as a gift. Because of this, in the Kai-shek’s residence will have so many endless lifetime use advanced silk fabrics. She had the fabric, you need someone to give her all kinds of
In short, Kai-shek always need some easy replacement of perennial cheongsam to entertain guests and the residence of various people. Especially when she had to attend various meetings attended by foreigners, receptions and dances, and Kai-shek will choose suitable clothes she publicly appeared. If anyone has the chance to go look at her dressing room, you will find all the qipao tailors prepared for her, you can distinguish the difference between the material and the quality level of the season. These different colors, different qualifications dress, usually by the side of the management waitress costumes they compiled numbers for easy access at any time. Shek on a dress, wearing a general secondary, especially in the summer, hot weather, when her dress requirements will be higher, up to a day to replace a worn. Sometimes the weather is too hot, as long as there has been a little sweat on her dress, usually a new one right away and back to wear; if it rains, if the hem of her dress appeared dirt, then she must be off New dress immediately replaced.
sewing trim fit dress, which has summer wear light-colored dress with a slightly darker color of autumn wear, there are dark blue or dark green color worn winter.
Cover Story | The Old New Thing
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「電藍水漬紋緞齊膝 旗 袍, 小 圓 角 衣 領 只 半 寸 高, 像 洋 服 一 樣。 領 口 一 隻 別 針, 與碎鑽鑲藍寶石的鈕 扣,耳環成套。」
旗袍是張愛玲畢生最愛 胡蘭成在《民國女子》中寫道:一日午後,好天氣。兩人同 向附近馬路上走去。愛玲穿一件桃色單旗袍。我說好看。她 道:「桃色的顏色聞得見香氣!」 張愛玲喜愛奇裝異服是出了名了的,喜歡旗袍卻把它做得與 眾不同。張子靜在《懷念我的姊姊張愛玲》中寫道:" 她穿一 件矮領子的布旗袍,大紅顏色的底子,上面一朵朵 的藍色和 白色的大花,旗袍兩邊都沒有鈕扣,穿的時候要像穿汗衫一 樣鑽進去。張愛玲說:在政治混亂期間,人們沒有能力改變 他們的生活情形,他們只能夠創造貼身的環境那就是衣服。 我們各人住在各人的衣服裡! 曾經給張愛玲做過旗袍的師傅回憶:我為張愛玲做過多少件 旗袍,具體數字記不清了,但每件旗袍都是「按圖施工」的。 如她冬天穿的旗袍,有絨夾裡、領頭不能太高太硬,因為她 說:「旗袍領頭高而硬 , 把頭頂撐得筆直 , 坐著寫作很不舒服。 」緊身、窄長袖、兩側開衩至膝部。外加一襲「海虎絨」大衣。 春秋季喜歡穿低領、束腰帶的「旗袍裙」。而她畫的夏季穿 旗袍樣式,如「無領、短袖、衣長至膝蓋」稱之為「風涼旗袍」 的款式,應該稱之為「連衣裙」了,而且一直流行到當代。
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湯唯|色戒
Tang Wei | Lust
Cheongsam is Eileen Chang’s favorite Hulan Cheng in the ‘Republican’womanwrote: A day in the afternoon, both with good weather and walked to a nearby road Aileen wearing a pink dress, I say good-looking single she said...Peachy color of smell See the aroma!’ Zhang said: During the political turmoil, people do not have the ability to change their life situation, they can only create an environment that is close-fitting clothes and every one of us to live in everyone’s clothes. Eileen Chang had done to master cheongsam memories: her winter wear such dress, "I have done much for Eileen Chang cheongsam, specific figures can not remember, but each dress is" according to the drawings, "and there are velvet folder. where the lead is not too high, too hard, because she said: "cheongsam leading high and hard to make it a straight head, sitting writing uncomfortable. "Tight, narrow long sleeves, side slits to the knee. Plus dressed" Sea Tiger velvet "coat in spring and autumn like wearing low collar, waist belt" cheongsam dress. "And she painted wearing summer dress styles, such as "No collar, short sleeves, long clothing to the knee" as "cool dress" style, it should be called the "dress", and it has been popular to contemporary.
「再沒有心肝的女人,說起她 『去年夏天那件織錦緞夾袍』的 時候,也是一往情深的」
Cover Story | The Old New Thing
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更 衣 記 時裝的日新月異並不一定表現活潑的精神與新穎的思想。恰
極其艱難危險的工作,小心翼翼地,費了二十年的工夫方才
巧相反。它可以代表呆滯;由於其他活動範圍內的失敗,所
完全剪去。)同時衣領矮了,袍身短了,裝飾性質的鑲滾也
有的創造力都流入衣服的區域裡去。在政治混亂期間,人們
免了,改用盤花鈕扣來代替,不久連鈕扣也被捐棄了,改用
沒有能力改良他們的生活情形。他們只能夠創造他們貼身的
嵌鈕。總之,這筆賬完全是減法,所有的點綴品,無論有用
環境--那就是衣服。我們各人住在各人的衣服裡。
沒用,一概剔去。剩下的只有一件緊身背心,露出頸項、兩
一九二一年,女人穿上了長袍。發源於滿洲的旗裝自從旗人 入關之後一直與中土的服裝並行著的,各不相犯,旗下的婦 女嫌她們的旗袍缺乏女性美,也想改穿較嫵媚的襖褲,然而 皇帝下詔,嚴厲禁止了。五族共和之後,全國婦女突然一致
實地將人體輪廓曲曲勾出。革命前的裝束卻反之,人屬次要, 單只注重詩意的線條,於是女人的體格公式化,不脫衣服, 不知道她與她有什麼不同。
採用旗袍,倒不是為了效忠於清朝,提倡復辟運動,而是因
我們的時裝不是一種有計劃有組織的實業,不比在巴黎,幾
為女子蓄意要模仿男子。在中國,自古以來女人的代名詞是
個規模宏大的時裝公司如 Lelong‘sSchiaparelli‘s,壟斷一切,
“三綹梳頭,兩截穿衣。”一截穿衣與兩截穿衣是很細微的
影響及整個白種人的世界。我們的裁縫卻是沒主張的。公眾
區別,似乎沒有什麼不公平之處,可是一九二○年的女人很容
的幻想往往不謀而合,產生一種不可思議的洪流。裁縫只有
易地就多了心。她們初受西方文化的熏陶,醉心於男女平權
追隨的份兒。因為這緣故,中國的時裝更可以作民意的代表。
之說,可是四周的實際情形與理想相差太遠了,羞憤之下, 她們排斥女性化的一切,恨不得將女人的根性斬盡殺絕。因 此初興的旗袍是嚴冷方正的,具有清教徒的風格。
究竟誰是時裝的首創者,很難證明,因為中國人素不尊重版 權,而且作者也不甚介意,既然抄襲是最隆重的讚美。最近 入時的半長不短的袖子,又稱“四分之三袖”,上海人便說
政治上,對內對外陸續發生的不幸事件使民眾灰了心。青年
是香港發起的,而香港人又說是上海傳來的,互相推諉,不
人的理想總有支持不了的一天。時裝開始緊 縮。喇叭管袖子
敢負責。一雙袖子翩翩歸來,預兆形式主義的複興。最新的
收小了。一九三 o 年,袖長及肘,衣領又高了起來,往年的
發展是向傳統的一方面走,細節雖不能恢復,輪廓卻可盡量
元寶領的優點在它的適宜的角度,斜斜地切過兩腮,不是瓜
引用,用得活泛,一樣能夠適應現代環境的需要。旗袍的大
子臉也變了瓜子臉,這一次的高領卻是圓筒式的,緊抵著下
襟採取圍裙式,就是個好例子,很有點“三日入廚下”的風
頷,肌肉尚未鬆弛的姑娘們也生了雙下巴。
情,耐人尋味。
當時歐美流行著的雙排鈕扣的軍人式的外套正和中國人淒厲
張愛玲《更衣記》節錄
的心情一拍即合。然而恪守中庸之道的中國女人在那雄赳赳 的大衣底下穿著拂地的絲絨長袍,袍叉開到大腿上,露出同 樣質料的長褲子,褲腳上閃著銀色花邊。衣服的主人翁也是 這樣的奇異的配答,表面上無不激烈地唱高調。骨子裡還是 唯物主義者。近年來最重要的變化是衣袖的廢除。 那似乎是
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臂與小腿。現在要緊的是人,旗袍的作用不外乎烘雲托月忠
電影:花樣年華
Movie : Mood For Love
Cover Story | The Old New Thing
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生 活 基 本
細節細緻
D A I LY P I C K
Bought from MEEGEE ($ 20)
「古著」顧名思義就是「古老的衣著」,不單是二手這麼簡單。它們甚至走過了 10~20 年以上的歷史,它的扣子可能氧化了,領口可能泛黃了,有許多歲月留下 來的痕跡 ... 這些古著無論使用的面料、細節的剪裁、甚至用途都是當時代的縮影。 有些人會覺得舊衣褲又髒又舊、不合時宜的老剪裁 , 到底有什麼特別 , 不就是破舊 的老衣服嗎 ? 其實他們都是每個時代的瑰寶 ! 例如襯衣下的弧度,長度剛好的七 分袖,隱藏的鈕扣,都是現代 fast-fashion 不可能找到的東西。有時會猜想,每件 衣物的前主人必然有一段故事,猜她/他為何會扔掉手上這衣服,猜她/他曾穿 著它和愛人約會,猜她/他曾穿著它招搖過市……這種種都是比衣服本身更有趣 的事情。 text/ Siu
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photo/ mary lam
Top: hidden botton Left: details of the sleeve Right: details at the back of the shirt
The Aesthetic Of Details
‘Vintage’ by definition is ‘old clothes’. They may have 10 to 20 years history, the buttons may be oxidized, yellowed collar. Fabrics, tailoring details of these vintage regardless, and even use when are the epitome of the era. Some people will feel old clothes dirty old, outdated old cut, in the end there is nothing special, not that shabby old clothes? In fact, they are treasures of every age! Such as the curvature of the shirt under, the sleeve, hidden buttons, all things are hard to find in fast-fashion. Sometimes will think, the owner of each piece of clothing must have a story, I’m guessing why she / he will throw this hand clothes, guess she / he was wearing it and loved dating guess she / he had to wear it through the streets... all these are more interesting things than the clothes themselves.
Daily Pick | The Aesthetic Of Details
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紅 製造
A
「紅 A 這個名字的由來是當時牙刷牌子叫 ACE,保留 ACE 嘅 『 A』字。 A 字排最頭,表示最好,加上紅色好意頭。」 品牌同時也努力研發,細心設計,因此我們可以找到紅 A 的 可承載 400 磅重的塑膠凳,這看似異想天開的做法,還確保 塑膠凳在戶外的不穩定天氣下及在凹凸不平的地面上,也不 會「炒魷魚」,必定能安全支撐著你的身體;另外,紅 A 儲 物膠箱的設計,亦會考慮到我們會將膠箱疊起而將載重量增 加,箱子不會變形,而且甚至考慮到疊起時推動箱子的安全, 而蓋子上加有波浪設計來防止推動時疊起的箱子因受力不均 而滑下。 在過去幾次的社會緊急情況時,紅 A 多次都因應情況調動生
紅 A 水壺(市面仍有小量)
產,助社會度過難關。比如較近年的有禽流感時期,品牌停 下所有生產線只為立即替政府製造三萬個塑膠雞籠,應付當 時的緊急情況。在沙士時,當有些品牌拒絕送貨到醫院及醫 管局時,紅 A 還是著職員戴著手套及口罩的去繼續送貨。紅 A 相信這些是與香港人一起成長的回憶,是回饋社會的行為。 關乎種種原因,很老土卻又不得不承認說,紅 A 是伴著香港 人一起成長的。
紅
A太
空
紅 A 膠椅
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( 市面有售)
喼
(
已
停
產
)
Made By RadA
‘Red A origin of the name was the toothbrush brand called ACE,
government to deal with the emergency. Also, at the time of
keep A word, said the best intentions with red head.’
SARS, while some brands refuse delivery to hospitals. Red A order the staff wearing red gloves and masks to continue
Red A is also work so hard, and carefully designed, we can find
delivery. Red A believe that these are the memories growing up
the red A’s can carry 400 pounds heavier plastic stool, this also
with Hong Kong people together.
ensures that the unsettled weather in the outdoors on plastic stools and in uneven ground will not ‘fired’, could safely sup-
Relating to a variety of reasons, it is old-fashioned but had to
port your body; in addition, the design of plastic storage box will
admit that the red A is accompanied by Hong Kong people
ensure when it stacked and increase load, the boxes will not be
grow together.
deformed, And even consider promoting safety boxes stacked
Text/ Mery Lee Photo/ mary lam Model/ Keikeif
to, and on the cover plus a wave design prevents stacked boxes when pushing and sliding down due to uneven force. In past years, when social is in emergency situation, Red A are due to be mobilized production, help the community survive. For example, during the bird flu, the brand stopped all production lines, only to manufacture thirty thousand plastic cages for the
Daily Pick | Made By Red A
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日常小物
Little Thing
本地設計品牌 TINBOT 出品,手腳有磁 石可取下單獨做用,機身是小罐,可放 小雜物如髮夾。($45) Local designer brands TINBOT produced water can be removed to make the magnet feet alone, the body is a canister, you can put small debris such as hairpins. ($ 45)
購自九龍城街邊碗碟鋪,相信是貨尾瑕 疵品,但不影響使用。($15) Dishes were purchased from street shop in Kowloon City, is believed to be the end of defective goods, but does not affect use. ($ 15)
AEON 十二蚊店的黃色玻璃水杯,有種 黃家衛電影的感覺,用來盛烈酒別有一 番味道,甚至只用於裝飾也可。 AEON twelve yellow glass cups mosquito shop, a kind of feeling of the movie Huang Wei, for holding spirits do not have a taste, or even just for decoration are also available.($12)
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從泰國尋回的傳統水杯,原料應該是一 種特別的金屬,叫價數千元港幣,這個 是仿品,$5 有交易。 Thailand recovered from the tradition of
MUJI(無印良品)的好奇窗兒童傘,
glass, raw materials should be a special
將傘的握柄處旋轉取下後,可更換姓名
metal, bid a few thousand dollars, this is
標 籤。 傘 面 有 圓 形 可 透 視 窗 口 設 計。
the imitation goods, $ 5 for Trade.
雖是兒童傘,但嬌小女生也適用。 MUJI window curious children umbrella, the umbrella handle at the rear rotary removed, can replace a name tag. Umbrella with a circular window can design perspective.Although children umbrella, but petite girls were also apply.
充滿童趣的單車筆刨,購自 BOARDWAY 另有黃/綠色 ($25) Sharpener childlike bicycle purchased from BOARDWAY another yellow/ green ($ 25)
Daily Pick | Made By Red A
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時
尚
延
想
八十年代 香港時裝片
FASHION MIND
Nadia Tang 「一日電影,一日時裝」
工作的時候,播著一首《今天應該很高興》,接著是陳百強的《當我想起你》,歌 聲緩緩捲入腦海,一陣莫名的感觸湧上心頭。 八十年代是香港的盛世,可謂最浮華燦爛的一個時代,人們那時開結講求生活及衣 著品味,「優皮士」一族出現,社會慢慢引進國際品牌,大家尤其崇尚日本潮流文 化,時裝演藝界百花齊放,從紅星梅艷芳、張國榮、譚詠麟及陳慧嫻等髮型、化妝 及服裝便可見一斑。
這個年代也是香港時裝片極盛之時,當時出現很多嶄新的理念、技術、設備、器材 等, 享譽四方的港產片名堂由此開展, 生強大化學作用。當中最受歡迎的幾部時 裝大片,分別是《秋天的童話》、《旺角卡門》、《胭脂扣》、《法內情》、《英 雄本色》等,都成為經典。在電影中,可以看到八十年代時裝走向多樣的新紀元 特色。
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從髮型開始,英國樂隊披頭四的「椰殼頭」,近藤真彥的「Matchy 頭」都是男士 潮流指標;而長短不一的曲髮、「爆炸頭」 、波浪高瀏海,均是時代女性的象徵。 衣服大多講究剪裁舒服簡單,以鬆身為主,上衣會墊膊,配一條窄腳「籮蔔褲」、 三個骨「燈籠褲」,間中會穿著旗袍,而當年長裙褲、牛仔褲與波鞋也十分流行。 到了八十年代後期,則以洗水絲、真皮及人造皮時裝風行一時。說到男女的 must have item,當然少不了一條貼身的運動褲及暖腳套(Legwarmer),可以看見時 尚又是一個循環,如今運動風再次興起,回到基本步。 整個八十年代充滿生機,而當中時尚、音樂、電影完全分割不來,互相依存,互 為影響,尤其當年看電影、聽演唱會是港人最流行娛樂之一,藝術事業興旺非常, 甚至精緻的電影戲服、演唱會服飾也引證本地服裝設計一大成就,著名設計 師如 張叔平、奚仲文、Kenneth Chan 等便是表表者。可恨那個黃金年代不再,唏噓 歎息換不了希望,盼死過後可以讓所有事物重生,最後在這裡以一段歌詞作結, 共勉之。
願你熟睡 願你熟睡 但你年輕不再歡笑 你的勇氣 你的勇氣 無奈從今不可再猛燒 為了在暴雨中找到真諦 犧牲的竟要徹底
天與地 幾多的心裡還在落淚 心永伴隨 無人能忘掉你在遠方
如今 夜了 請安息輕帶著靈魂別去 這刻 拋開顧慮 漆黑將不再面對
Fashion Mind | Fashion movies in HK 80‘s
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Prefer Price: $35 建議售價 :$35 Issue: 001 Date: 2015 MAY